The RS1 should behave like a higher lumen output DI equipped projector which has its light output crippled in the majority of scenes due to the DI. Couple this with the very high on-off contrast and I think that the RS1 will look fine even down in the 6-8 Ft-L range provided that the viewing room has excellent control of ambient light and dark walls/ceiling/floor.Excellent points.

That sounds great (about the Chicago possible viewing.)

I was over at one of my local HT dealers earlier today and we were discussing the RS1/HD1 versus other PJs while I looked at their pearl setup, which was pretty awesome. One of their guys was telling me about their JVC rep was going to have an RS1 demo, for dealers, in Austin sometime soon.

Tom (Stites) please make sure they, your distributor/wholesaler, opens it up so that we can be invited, too. You know we will report our very objective takes. 8)

Catdaddy,

It just occurred to me that your smiley is not a typo; if that's the case, are those nostrils or low eyeballs?

The RS1's manual is now online. (http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/Manual/DLA-RS1_english.pdf)

The RS1's manual is now online. (http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/Manual/DLA-RS1_english.pdf)


Apart from the additional language pages in the "safety precautions" section of the Euro HD1 manual the RS1/HD1 product specification/operation appear identical from comparing the manuals.

It appears at face value that the only difference is case colour. Maybe JVC Pro US will provide a better warranty or additional calibration? IIRC the guys on the UK pre-order receive a 3 year warrany (1 year bulb) on the HD1.

Dazzer

According to the RS1 Spec Page (http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/specs.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=03), no.

But 1080i it will do via component, as I read it.

I assume that most of you are aware that cine4home will be hosting a public display of the HD1 in Germany on January 27. The HD1 is to be displayed on a 350 cm (140") wide Screen Research screen. This is really interesting, because assuming that the screen material is CP2, this screen has a 0.95 gain. Hopefully observers will comment on adequate brightness despite whatever Ft-L values this HD1/Screen Research combination provides.

As far as I know it will be not 3.5 m but a 3.0 m Cadre1 screen from DaVision (afaik 1.0-1.2 gain) see info at grobi DOT tv .The grobi guys are the ones doing the demo and have the unit since today for preliminary testing. Most certainly I will attend the demo even if its a 3-hour trip (one way) for me. If the HD-1 delivers what it promises it will replace my trusty Z12000.

Best regards,

Gregor

Edit: I need to get to 5 posts soon :-]

Catdaddy,

It just occurred to me that your smiley is not a typo; if that's the case, are those nostrils or low eyeballs?
Have you seriously never seen people create smileys like that before?

They're just bigger eyeballs, instead of the tiny eyes of a colon :) or the line eyes of an equal sign =)

:) 8) =)

lozoppo,
My information on the Screen Research screen came from cine4home.de Oh well, a 3 m wide low gain screen still requires a bright projector to produce an engaging image.

Just to add to the suggestion. Run whatever conduit you want, but keep a pull string in it to easily install new cabling. Each time you need a new cable, you just attach it (and a new replacement string) to the pull string and pull it through.

Aaron, I like your recommendation and will do more research in the other section too.

Thanks!

-- Mehdi

The RS1's manual is now online. (http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/Manual/DLA-RS1_english.pdf)
Based on the table on page 22 of the manual, it sure looks like ZOOM mode will do the Constant Height stretch (for anamorphic lenses) that many of us have been waiting for.

It is possible this won't work for anything other than 480i inputs, but that would seem a bit silly.

Anybody else notice this?


-Dave

EDIT: Doh! I missed this line right above the table:

When high definition images are input, the screen size is fixed at 16:9.

Given that everything must get processed by the Gennum scaler, it seems that it must have been more work to disable this feature for hi def inputs than it would have been just to allow it to happen for any input resolution!

They're just bigger eyeballs

Yeah, Noah. Its a wide-eyed smiley. ;)

Based on the table on page 22 of the manual, it sure looks like ZOOM mode will do the Constant Height stretch (for anamorphic lenses) that many of us have been waiting for.

It is possible this won't work for anything other than 480i inputs, but that would seem a bit silly.

Anybody else notice this?


-Dave

EDIT: Doh! I missed this line right above the table:

When high definition images are input, the screen size is fixed at 16:9.

Given that everything must get processed by the Gennum scaler, it seems that it must have been more work to disable this feature for hi def inputs than it would have been just to allow it to happen for any input resolution!


Zoom is generally not a true vertical stretch. It actually zooms in from the center of the image and you have lower resolution than before. You also lose some of the image. A true vertical stretch just elongates the image and you still see all the picture top bottom left and right

Catdaddy67, did I read your post correctly about an RS1 demo in Austin, as in Austin Texas? That's where I live, and given I'm on the prebuy, would love to see one of these if it's the same city and I can get in :)

Any info appreciated.

Best

It appears at face value that the only difference is case colour. Maybe JVC Pro US will provide a better warranty or additional calibration? IIRC the guys on the UK pre-order receive a 3 year warrany (1 year bulb) on the HD1.

Dazzer

According to the warranty page (http://www.jvcservice.com/service/MdlWtyInq.asp?PgReq=DspDta&MdlNbr=DLA-RS1U) on the JVC website, it's a 2 year warranty and 6 months or 600 hrs. on the lamp.

TheGreatWyrm,

I was just talking to LoveMovies about this on PMs. 8)

I was at one of my local HT dealers yesterday and one of their salesguys told me that he was going to possibly be seeing the RS1 soon at a dealer demo event by their JVC rep. Nothing was firm yet, but he did say that it was probably not going to be a public demo (for dealers only) but his GM did invite me to a Marantz dealer demo last month, so maybe we can get in to this one too. 8)

The salesguy is quite knowledgable and posts here on occassion, too.

Ill PM you his particulars so you can ask him about the specifics. From the top down they are a first class dealer and I would highly recommend them for your local needs.

Mike

....Given that everything must get processed by the Gennum scaler, it seems that it must have been more work to disable this feature for hi def inputs than it would have been just to allow it to happen for any input resolution!This is where price point is derived....... lower price point = fewer features. This is continually happening with all displays.

Zoom is generally not a true vertical stretch. It actually zooms in from the center of the image and you have lower resolution than before. You also lose some of the image. A true vertical stretch just elongates the image and you still see all the picture top bottom left and right
If you look at the table on pg 22 of the manual it sure looks like it is just a vertical stretch. The left and right sides look the same.

-Dave

If it's typical letterbox zoom it will just stretch the image vertically. It's made for non anamorpically enhanced 16:9 DVD's. They will be stretched horizontally automatically by the DVD player which will assume they are anamorphically squeezed. The zoom function then restores the correct geometry.

With all the upconverting DVD players out there it really is surpising that this feature is only available in 480i. Many older PJ's were like this as well.

Did you guys read the review of the HD81 in Projector Reviews? After gray scale calibration, and when calibrated to 6500K, with lamp in High mode and iris fully open, it produces 526 lumens. This suggests that the RS1 is brighter than the 'super bright' HD81; is this really true?

Did you guys read the review of the HD81 in Projector Reviews? After gray scale calibration, and when calibrated to 6500K, with lamp in High mode and iris fully open, it produces 526 lumens. This suggests that the RS1 is brighter than the 'super bright' HD81; is this really true?

That's hilarious!

I wonder how far into his review Greg Rogers is, and if he made similar findings?

Projector central says that with maximum iris, the lumens goes below 300 on the Optima. That is why I can't wait for the RS-1. No Iris is HUGE!!!

I assume that most of you are aware that cine4home will be hosting a public display of the HD1 in Germany on January 27. The HD1 is to be displayed on a 350 cm (140") wide Screen Research screen. This is really interesting, because assuming that the screen material is CP2, this screen has a 0.95 gain. Hopefully observers will comment on adequate brightness despite whatever Ft-L values this HD1/Screen Research combination provides.

the real gain of the CP2is more around 0.8.... that's 20% loss of brigthness...
and the wall behind better be black fabric !

Originally Posted by Kroenen
The RS1's manual is now online.
I don't think this is the US version of the manual due to the dimensions of the pj being shown in mm's and projected screen height and width still being shown in meters.

This might be a little off-topic... but can someone explain the benefit of CIH stretching, when the panels are already 1:1 matched to 1080p source material. It seems like you would just be adding an avenue for artifacts for a bit more resolution which is only gained through processing trickery anyway.

I don't think this is the US version of the manual due to the dimensions of the pj being shown in mm's and projected screen height and width still being shown in meters.

It's on the JVC America/Pro website for the DLA-RS1; how could it not be the US model? We often do use the metric system here.

We often do use the metric system here.
Come on Bill, with all of the screen research you've done in the past year you can't be serious.

Can you imagine all the calls JVC service would have to field if they left it as is. Looks more like a cut and paste job. That version of the manual is not final and I will guarantee it. ;)

Come on Bill, with all of the screen research you've done in the past year you can't be serious.

Can you imagine all the calls JVC service would have to field if they left it as is. Looks more like a cut and paste job. That version of the manual is not final and I will guarantee it. ;)

Well, I certainly don't know; just my guess. You may certainly be right.

Well, I certainly don't know; just my guess.
Nothing wrong with that and I should have thrown a smiley on the end of the first sentence in my previous post. Sorry, I didn't mean to sound harsh.

Nothing wrong with that and I should have thrown a smiley on the end of the first sentence in my previous post. I didn't mean to sound harsh.

No problem; we're all in this together!

I was at one of my local HT dealers yesterday and one of their salesguys told me that he was going to possibly be seeing the RS1 soon at a dealer demo event by their JVC rep. Nothing was firm yet, but he did say that it was probably not going to be a public demo (for dealers only) but his GM did invite me to a Marantz dealer demo last month, so maybe we can get in to this one too. 8)

The salesguy is quite knowledgable and posts here on occassion, too.

Ill PM you his particulars so you can ask him about the specifics. From the top down they are a first class dealer and I would highly recommend them for your local needs.

Mike

I'm also in Austin and would like to both (i) have a chance at the RS1 demo, and (ii) see a good pearl setup here in town. Pass me along the info as well, if you don't mind Cat.

This might be a little off-topic... but can someone explain the benefit of CIH stretching, when the panels are already 1:1 matched to 1080p source material. It seems like you would just be adding an avenue for artifacts for a bit more resolution which is only gained through processing trickery anyway.

You get more lumens from the output normally wasted by the black bars. Other than that I'm not sure because you can still do CIH with just the projector's zoom.

This would be a good question for the 2.35 forums.

According to the warranty page (http://www.jvcservice.com/service/MdlWtyInq.asp?PgReq=DspDta&MdlNbr=DLA-RS1U) on the JVC website, it's a 2 year warranty and 6 months or 600 hrs. on the lamp.

UK pre-orders confirmed as 3 years with 1 year bulb. ;)

Dazzer

UK pre-orders confirmed as 3 years with 1 year bulb. ;)

Dazzer

Yeah, I know. Since they started with only one year, maybe we can go from 2 to 4. :D

Oh well, my order's in no matter what.

Now that were almost knoking on the door of fabled February and anticipating imminent proj release, is there any new info regarding model specific ceiling mounts for the DLA-RS1?

Now that were almost knoking on the door of fabled February and anticipating imminent proj release, is there any new info regarding model specific ceiling mounts for the DLA-RS1?

Chief XXX-184 (if I recall correctly OTTOMH). Substitute RPA, RPM, SLB (if you already have a RPA mount perhaps) etc for the XXX based on your particular needs.

Wasn't cine4home's HD1 showing today? Surprised we have not heard anything about that considering they are several hours ahead of us. Also I thought his updated findings would be posted by now, but assume that's coming soon.

Wasn't cine4home's HD1 showing today? Surprised we have not heard anything about that considering they are several hours ahead of us. Also I thought his updated findings would be posted by now, but assume that's coming soon.

I was sure I would wake up to some new reports from the cine4home event :( You would think the updated findings would hit anytime :confused:

I was sure I would wake up to some new reports from the cine4home event :( You would think the updated findings would hit anytime :confused:

I just posted a message on the ********* ( HT Forum ), so we just have to wait for it.....

Chief XXX-184 (if I recall correctly OTTOMH). Substitute RPA, RPM, SLB (if you already have a RPA mount perhaps) etc for the XXX based on your particular needs.


Looks like it is now available.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/manufacturer_search/?&dropdown=manufacturer_device&manufacturer_id=824&type_id=projectors&manufacturer_device_id=40161

I am building a home theater room that is 22 deep, 13 wide, and 10 feet high. I am planning on using a screen research 110"wide screen in a completely light controlled room. Any thoughts on which projector would be best for my situation? Distance from screen to front row people is approx 12 feet.

Wasn't cine4home's HD1 showing today? Surprised we have not heard anything about that considering they are several hours ahead of us. Also I thought his updated findings would be posted by now, but assume that's coming soon.
I checked one of the main German Forums (together in German) and no reports there yet (22:45 local time) So noone went there, or they not home yet.
Last news from my dealer (Netherlands) is that my unit will be there in week 6.

I checked one of the main German Forums (together in German) and no reports there yet (22:45 local time) So noone went there, or they not home yet.
Last news from my dealer (Netherlands) is that my unit will be there in week 6.


No, they are all still so stunned, not able to write...

:p

Regards,
Ekkehart

hahaha!

still no update on vertical stretch. anyone ?

Anybody have a clue as to how the lumens of the JVC would compare to a Hitachi TX200?

No, they are all still so stunned, not able to write...

:p

Regards,
Ekkehart

Ekkehart ...tell us something! :eek:

Looks like it is now available.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/manufacturer_search/?&dropdown=manufacturer_device&manufacturer_id=824&type_id=projectors&manufacturer_device_id=40161
Spoke with them yesterday. Need one more week before they have a product to ship.

As original thread initiatior at the german board I volunteer to pass/translate the word ;).
The first impressions are very positive, especially the vast contrast in low APL scenes was an eyeopener. At the same time more than enough light output for the 3 meter screen. Apparently the JVC was located around 4.5m away which would mean it worked more towards it peak lumen output. Which would also mean it did "only" about 11k:1 contrast if we remember the former measurements of C4H. And people still loved it apparently.

So with a smaller screen (say 2.5m wide) it should be possible to get even more contrast and better blacklevel by moving the projector to the far end of its throw. At least thats what I have in mind if I replace my Sharp Z12000 which is located now far behind me.

I allready wrote it in the original thread, to me the JVC looks like the best allround projector right now.For special tasks there are better machines:

- Extra large screen? Get a bright 3-chipper, but it will cost more and not have the massive on/off contrast and hence the good blacklevel

- Need it sharp as possible? I guess the Marantz VP11 will do fine, but it will not be very bright with its iris closed down

- ANSI-Fanboy? Get the Sharp Z21k. See comment for the Marantz

Personally I can live with the "shortcomings" as stepping up from the Z12000 it will give me twice the resolution, roughly double the light output and at least double the contrast and get rid of the mild but still present DLP-artifacts.
Looks like a good deal to me. Thanks for reading my ramblings...

CU Gregor

Please keep your updates coming Gregor!

still no update on vertical stretch. anyone ?

I know I'm surprised too... the longer there is no news about this, the more I think it is a forgotten cause. If the factory would have implemented it by now, I'm sure they would have touted it.

I am building a home theater room that is 22 deep, 13 wide, and 10 feet high. I am planning on using a screen research 110"wide screen in a completely light controlled room. Any thoughts on which projector would be best for my situation? Distance from screen to front row people is approx 12 feet.


I replaced my sony ruby with a marantz 11s1, big improvement in picture quality, the marantz is simply in a different league than the sony 1080p units, thats not to say the ruby and the pearl dont look good but the marantz has optics and gennum processing that makes a noticeable difference, my screen is 110" highpower and the iris is closed down on the marantz and its plenty bright seating is 14' 4 berklines across, the marantz is pricey but its that way for a reason, its not a budget projector its built to a standard not a budget.

funlvr1965- That is a nice projector you have there. I would have gotten it if it was priced in the same league as the Marantz S3 I have. However here in Australia it is cost prohibitive, and is 3x the price of the JVC hence the reason why I am looking at the JVC as a replacement. Also want a quiet projector as my next one.

I have a Peerless PJRL100 base for my JVCG15 ... will there be an updated pj part that connects to that for the RS-1?
I would hate to have to do a new mount to the wood cabinet (hard to get in there, not to mention expense).

Ekkehart ...tell us something! :eek:



What shall I say? From what I heard of the people, everyone was more than impressed by that machine and confirmed, that the HD1 actually lives up to the hype...


Regards,
Ekkehart

Ekkehart, I know the HD1 is considered a better projector than the Panasonic AE1000. My question is how noticeable is the difference? Have you seen the Panasonic, any plans for a review? Any comparison comments at all much appreciated.

funlvr1965- That is a nice projector you have there. I would have gotten it if it was priced in the same league as the Marantz S3 I have. However here in Australia it is cost prohibitive, and is 3x the price of the JVC hence the reason why I am looking at the JVC as a replacement. Also want a quiet projector as my next one.


Spero, the Marantz so far has lived up to everthing its been known for,sharpness without being edgy and beautiful detail and the optics are par with even more expensive pjs of the 3 chip flavor, as you know from the S3 its a solid design which the company continues to build on. My interest in the RS1 is not to replace the marantz but to possibly add it to the theater and use on pj for 16x9 viewing and the other for viewing on a scope screen, I already have a 110" electric highpower and maybe I can use a neutral gain scope screen for jvc, Dila is a great technology and im interested to see how the RS1 pulls it off, by the way are you still enjoying your M&K setup? :)

I wonder how far into his review Greg Rogers is, and if he made similar findings?

Review's done. You wouldn't be baiting me would you Rob? :)

Review's done. You wouldn't be baiting me would you Rob? :)


In the infamous words of Bugs Bunny: "mmmm......could be"!


:D

Review's done. You wouldn't be baiting me would you Rob? :)

When will we be able to read it?

When will we be able to read it?It will be in the next issue, which mails out around Feb 15.

It will be in the next issue, which mails out around Feb 15.

Thanks, Greg. Will those of us with electronic subscriptions be able to get it that early?

Thanks, Greg. Will those of us with electronic subscriptions be able to get it that early?
I don't know what day it goes on the web site, but I think they usually put it up right around the time the mag mails out. So I would think about Feb 15.

A few thousand emails from AVSers might get it up faster :)

Well, at least all of us 'RS1 pre-buyers' can be encouraged that GregR did actually review the RS1. As we know, when he receives a dog, he diplomatically declines to publish a review.

Well, at least all of us 'RS1 pre-buyers' can be encouraged that GregR did actually review the RS1. As we know, when he receives a dog, he diplomatically declines to publish a review.


Bill, not to burst your bubble, but I am pretty sure that Greg was referring to the HD81.

Bill, not to burst your bubble, but I am pretty sure that Greg was referring to the HD81.
Man, it fooled me. I just ordered a subscrition based on Greg's post thinking it would be cool to have my first issue of WSR be the one covering the RS1, not the HD81. I despise Optoma.

Bill, not to burst your bubble, but I am pretty sure that Greg was referring to the HD81.

Oops, I certainly missed that; hope you're wrong! :) [But since the RS1 is not supposed to be in the country yet, and GregR only reviews production units, I fear you are right!]

Bill, read your post (post number 2021) and my response. That is what Greg was referring to.

Bill, read your post (post number 2021) and my response. That is what Greg was referring to.

Rob, Yep, I agree. Will still be interesting to see what he comes up with re the HD81.

Well, at least we know it passed muster, which seemed iffy.

Originally Posted by Tom Bley
Looks like it is now available.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/manufacture...device_id=40161Spoke with them yesterday. Need one more week before they have a product to ship.I've never seen it discussed, but is perhaps worth mentioning, that if you already have a Chief mount (any one of many, including the electri-lift) that you may only need an hanger bracket, not the entire RPA-184. The RPA-184 itself consists of a universal type ceiling mount with an SLB-184 hanger. Those with Sony Ruby's or Pearl's on this type of hardware will have the same mount, but with an SLB-020 hanger. That whole kit was called the RPA-020.

So in many cases, all you'll need is the SLB-184 hanger.

I've never seen it discussed, but is perhaps worth mentioning, that if you already have a Chief mount (any one of many, including the electri-lift) that you may only need an hanger bracket, not the entire RPA-184. The RPA-184 itself consists of a universal type ceiling mount with an SLB-180 hanger. Those with Sony Ruby's or Pearl's on this type of hardware will have the same mount, but with an SLB-020 hanger. That whole kit was called the RPA-020.

So in many cases, all you'll need is the SLB-180 hanger.

Given the versatility of this proj with regard to its vertical offset, are there any reasonable commercial mounting options if one would like to ceiling mount without going upside down?

So in many cases, all you'll need is the SLB-180 hanger.

Was that a typo? I'm pretty sure you mean SLB-184 not 180. If so please edit your post so down the road no one trips over that. Thanks.

Was that a typo? I'm pretty sure you mean SLB-184 not 180. If so please edit your post so down the road no one trips over that. Thanks.Not a typo that I know of. I am going by the tech information downloaded from Chief's description of the RPA-184: Installation Instructions - Interface http://www.chiefmfg.com/client_files/www.chiefmfg.com/downloads/SLB-180-I.pdf
If I substitute 184 for the 180 in this URL, it indicates No Such File.

[it is supposed to be a 184. Error on the website.]

Typically the model # itself is the same for a given mount. For example, if I recall correctly, if I want the complete Ruby mount I'd get the RPA-020. But if I needed just the bracket I'd get the SLB-020. Note the same 020 in either case. I'm pretty sure it would be no different with the HD1/RS1 mount (in which case it would be SLB-184). I'll try to get to the bottom of this today and will post back.

Given the versatility of this proj with regard to its vertical offset, are there any reasonable commercial mounting options if one would like to ceiling mount without going upside down?Check out Chief's SL-236 ceiling mount. There may also be others in that category.

@lovingdvd: I think Chief is confused on the SLB naming. For the RPA-184 they reference the SLB-180, but in the SL-236 ceiling mount specs they reference the SLB-184. However, when you click on the technical information for SLB-184, you get the same SLB-180 file that you get with the RPA-184.

How much does just buying the hanger bracket typically cost vs buying the entire mount?

Ok, I got a price of 159.00 retail from Chief on just the SLB bracket.

For those of us with tall (10 foot) ceilings, what mount and accessories can we use to bring the pj down a foot and a half or so? I don't want to use any more offset than is absolutely necessary.

Not a typo that I know of. I am going by the tech information downloaded from Chief's description of the RPA-184: Installation Instructions - Interface http://www.chiefmfg.com/client_files/www.chiefmfg.com/downloads/SLB-180-I.pdf
If I substitute 184 for the 180 in this URL, it indicates No Such File.


I believe the Chief website is wrong because that bracket does not come close to what they need for the rs-1.

Rob,nearly all mounts accept a threaded pipe. You can buy one from Chief or just go and buy a threaded pipe from Home Depot and spray paint it flat black, http://www.chiefmfg.com/store/results/accessories/?product_category_id=5025

Ok, I got a price of 159.00 retail from Chief on just the SLB bracket.

That's insane. That sounds like the price for both the RPA & SLB together. I would expect the SLB to be the cheaper of the two pieces as well. If that is the price of just the SLB I'll design my own on Solidworks and have it laser cut & formed at the shop I work for. I already have the RPA. I would expect the SLB bracket to cost no more that $75.

I asked if I would save money buying the entire RPA-184 vs buying just the SLB bracket if I already had a RPA mount. I was told, "no you won't save much, SLB bracket alone cost nearly as much as a complete RPA."

You don't need the SLB bracket if you buy the RPA-U? Is this a correct assumption?

Ok, I got a price of 159.00 retail from Chief on just the SLB bracket.
That is nuts! :eek:

Anything over $150 for the entire mount and I'll be making my own for a fraction of the cost.

Rob,nearly all mounts accept a threaded pipe. You can buy one from Chief or just go and buy a threaded pipe from Home Depot and spray paint it flat black, http://www.chiefmfg.com/store/results/accessories/?product_category_id=5025

Thanks Bulldogger. I already have a threaded pipe from Home Depot that I am using with my current pj, so hopefull it will work with the Chief mount.

I asked if I would save money buying the entire RPA-184 vs buying just the SLB bracket if I already had a RPA mount. I was told, "no you won't save much, SLB bracket alone cost nearly as much as a complete RPA."

Yep I know it doesn't make sense but that's how its always been. It was something like only a $15 difference between getting the full mount vs. just the SLB bracket when I replaced my Sharp 10K with the Ruby.

You don't need the SLB bracket if you buy the RPA-U? Is this a correct assumption?Not exactly. It comes with an SLB-U hanging bracket which accomodates both 3 and 4 hole projectors.

Looks like the best price I can find on an SLB-020 (as a reference) is $145.22 at Final Click, and the RPA-020 at 149.98 also at Final Click.

Interestingly, an SLB-U without much searching comes up at $110.92 at AV-Alive. The RPA-U is around $150 at several places.

Unless someone finds some SLB-184 at a good price, we'd be better off with the SLB-U.

There's a shark in them thar waters ...

That's settles it, I am just going to buy the RPA-U.

While waiting for the RS1 with the rest of you, I'm repainting/configuring my HT/living room actually( 14'x21' openly connected to large dining room) with dark paint and first time addressing of reflections.
I plan to match a new screen to what I see when first projecting the rs1 onto my old 4:3 unity gain Stewart. I've the option of table mounting in front or stand mounting behind the viewers.
I know what ND filers are, having used them many years ago in photography.
The appeal of extending bulb life is significant, as I MAY have as much as 40 ft-l at t-zero. ( haven't decided on screen size or throw distance)
My question:
How do I buy and mechanically configure an ND-2 (or other) to work with the rs1, or other projector for that matter.
It is my understanding that if I buy the HP with fixed frame..and it doesn't work out( inadequate cone), I can keep the frame and attach an alternate 1.5 also available.
Thanks!
Walter

OK, I just spoke to my contact at Chief. With 100% certainty it is the SLB-184, NOT the 180. The 180 is for a completely different projector and will not work. The 180 reference on their site is a typo and will be updated shortly.

Please edit your posts to remove any reference to 180 to help ensure that someone reading these posts through a search down the line doesn't see one of the messages without reading further and order the wrong thing.

That's settles it, I am just going to buy the RPA-U.

The RPA-U is cheaper and nice in that you will not need to invest in a new SLB bracket each time you change pjs. Just know going into it, however, that it does not provide as flush or nice (aesthetically speaking) of a fit as using a specifically designed bracket.

Also the custom bracket (184) has the cutout for the air intake on the bottom of the unit (top when inverted). You should double check that the RPA-U will not block any of that area.

Lovingdvd, I am mounting unto my existing thread pipe. I have RPG Skyline diffusers on my ceiling so I have to come down at least 7 inches to avoid them. I do not know if all of these projectors will ship at the same time. If they do not I should be close the front of the line as I got in on the pre-buy within the first hours of it being posted. I'll let everyone know if the RPA-U works as I just ordered one.

Man, it fooled me. I just ordered a subscrition based on Greg's post thinking it would be cool to have my first issue of WSR be the one covering the RS1, not the HD81. I despise Optoma.
I'm expecting the RS-1 soon. It will be my next review.

There should also be a Sim2 review by Bill Cushman soon (but not in the same issue as my Optoma review). There is also a Panasonic review by Bill on the way. So I think you will get your money's worth for your WSR subscription quite soon.

I'm expecting the RS-1 soon. It will be my next review.

There should also be a Sim2 review by Bill Cushman soon (but not in the same issue as my Optoma review). There is also a Panasonic review by Bill on the way. So I think you will get your money's worth for your WSR subscription quite soon.


I have a online sub, and its a great value to me, just for Greg's reviews alone.

Looking forward to the upcoming projector reviews!

For those of you on the RS1 pre-buy (as I am). How many of you are planning on doing 2.35:1? And if you are, how are you doing it? Outboard scaler, HTPC etc... or zoom?

Just curious how other people plan to get around this CIH issue.

In my case, I was going to use Zoom in the short-term, but the manual zoom is a bit of a put-off. If I knew there would be a firmware upgrade for CIH stretch in the cards I would feel a whole lot better...

For those of you on the RS1 pre-buy (as I am). How many of you are planning on doing 2.35:1? And if you are, how are you doing it? Outboard scaler, HTPC etc... or zoom?

Just curious how other people plan to get around this CIH issue.

In my case, I was going to use Zoom in the short-term, but the manual zoom is a bit of a put-off. If I knew there would be a firmware upgrade for CIH stretch in the cards I would feel a whole lot better...

Guys, I do not mean this in a sarcastic way, but what is the point of CIH stretch and 2.35 support and so forth. I'd like to understand what all the fuss is about. If one already has a 1.77 screen, we watch 2.35 with some horizontal bars. Does this squeeze feature somehow stretch the picture to fill the 16:9 and somehow give greater resolution?

AS I understand, the projector / processor scales the image to fill the 16:9 panel, then a lens is used to fill the 2:35 screen.

It can only make the image softer IMO, as you lose 1:1 pixel mapping.

I believe that the scaler fills the full 16:9 panel vertically (vertical stretch) leaving the horizontal stretch (for horizontal expansion lens) to the anamorphic lens (which fills the 2.35 screen proportionately to the vertical stretch).

For vertical comressions lenses the scaler stretches the 2.35 image vertically, to fill the 16:9 panel (using the full 16:9 panel and removing horizontal bars) and the lens compresses the image back again to scale.

I believe both methods allow you the increase in brightness that comes from using all the pixels of the full panel when using a 2.35 setup.

Guys, I do not mean this in a sarcastic way, but what is the point of CIH stretch and 2.35 support and so forth. I'd like to understand what all the fuss is about. If one already has a 1.77 screen, we watch 2.35 with some horizontal bars. Does this squeeze feature somehow stretch the picture to fill the 16:9 and somehow give greater resolution?Here is a link that explains it well:
http://www.prismasonic.com/english/intro.shtml
this one is also good (penned by Forum member CAVX):
http://cavx.blogspot.com/2006/11/marks-home-theatre-projects-cih.html

In my case, I am restricted to a screen height of ~56" because of sight lines given my ceiling height. If I use a 16:9 screen, I would have a ~114" diagonal. When I watch movies though, I would be restricted by the width of the 16:9 screen to a 108" diagonal 2.35:1 image inside the 16:9 frame. However, if I instead use a 2.35 screen , then I still see a 114" diagonal 16:9 image (with bars on the side), but when watching a movie, I get a ~132" wide image with a 143" diagonal, which is, IMHO, a huge difference.

Hope that makes sense.

Craig.

Guys, I do not mean this in a sarcastic way, but what is the point of CIH stretch and 2.35 support and so forth. I'd like to understand what all the fuss is about. If one already has a 1.77 screen, we watch 2.35 with some horizontal bars. Does this squeeze feature somehow stretch the picture to fill the 16:9 and somehow give greater resolution?
The advantage, as I understand it, it to get the projector - the 16:9 projector - to use all it's pixels to display the 2.35:1 image. This image will be "distorted" in that it will be stretched vertically. And then a lens in front of the projector - pardon my highly technical terminology - scrunches the image back to the proper size displaying it on a 2.35:1 screen. The image will be brighter than a 1.78:1 projector displaying a 2.35:1 image letterboxed. Proponents of this also cite the fact that a 2.35 movie image will be wider than a 1.78 one. (Masking is usually used as anything "less" than 2.35 will now have bars on the sides.)

edit: looks like a few beat me to it. . .

Thanks. Sounds like these advantages would be most useful only to those who are really stretched for lumens, or for those that sit relatively very close to the screen (slight resolution increase). Since I don't fit into either category I'd pass because I would think the image would certainly loss a little sharpness in the process.

I'm height restricted too, and the max width 16:9 screen I can have is 7ft wide, but with 2.35:1 I can have an 8ft wide image. I could go a little wider but I needed the room for the side masking curtains.

In my case the area of 16:9 and 2.35:1 was transposed, but now it's the correct way round - 2.35:1 movies are the same height as 16:9, but more than 33% wider, just like a true cinema. Vertically stretching the image for scope may lose 1:1 pixel mapping, but the advantages of the scope set up to me more than make up for it.

Gary

Thanks. Sounds like these advantages would be most useful only to those who are really stretched for lumens, or for those that sit relatively very close to the screen (slight resolution increase). Since I don't fit into either category I'd pass because I would think the image would certainly loss a little sharpness in the process.
When folks had 1280 x 720 projectors displaying 1920 x 1080i sources, an additional argument could be made that they were displaying more resolution than 1280 x 720 showing 2.35 movies letterboxed. Now that projectors and sources are 1920 x 1080p, I believe that argument is no longer valid.

"Don't let a high post count interfere with your BS detector."

LOL. Classic.

"Don't let a high post count interfere with your BS detector."

LOL. Classic.
Socially impressive? ;)

For those of you on the RS1 pre-buy (as I am). How many of you are planning on doing 2.35:1? And if you are, how are you doing it? Outboard scaler, HTPC etc... or zoom?

Just curious how other people plan to get around this CIH issue.

In my case, I was going to use Zoom in the short-term, but the manual zoom is a bit of a put-off. If I knew there would be a firmware upgrade for CIH stretch in the cards I would feel a whole lot better...
Since the reports are that the black bars are so black as not to be distracting, I am going to try watching 2:35 with the bars first.

Thanks. Sounds like these advantages would be most useful only to those who are really stretched for lumens, or for those that sit relatively very close to the screen (slight resolution increase). Since I don't fit into either category I'd pass because I would think the image would certainly loss a little sharpness in the process.
You lose some lumens too because you have to use a longer throw with most lens. Using this projector at 1.4 throw for max. brightness is out of the question. The lens give you some of the brightness back but I do not know how much that is offset by having to use the longer throw. I think a constant height discussion is going to completely knock this thread off topic. There are a lot of question and considerations concerning that.

Also the custom bracket (184) has the cutout for the air intake on the bottom of the unit (top when inverted). You should double check that the RPA-U will not block any of that area.
Decided that if when I get the RPA-U if it blocks the air intake, I'll take one of my hole saws and cut the approx. size hole in it to let the air pass. Cheaper than buying another bracket.

I think a constant height discussion is going to completely knock this thread off topicAgreed. I was more interested in the RS1-specific CIH issues (no internal scaling and manual zoom) and how those on the pre-buy were going to address it.

I'm height restricted too, and the max width 16:9 screen I can have is 7ft wide, but with 2.35:1 I can have an 8ft wide image. I could go a little wider but I needed the room for the side masking curtains.

In my case the area of 16:9 and 2.35:1 was transposed, but now it's the correct way round - 2.35:1 movies are the same height as 16:9, but more than 33% wider, just like a true cinema. Vertically stretching the image for scope may lose 1:1 pixel mapping, but the advantages of the scope set up to me more than make up for it.

Gary


A good discussion about 2.35:1 is here :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=792355

Of course there is lots of these threads over in the CH forum. IMO the three big factors are the content you will watch, room size and $$$. If you have the room width, watch movies mostly and are willing to do a ISCO 3 lense and/or scaler, 2.35:1 makes sense for you and is a helluva way to watch movies. If you don't have the width, $$$ or watch a lot of HD and some old school 4x3 SD you will be better off 16x9.

I doubt I could go back to 16:9 now to be honest.

Gary

For those of you on the RS1 pre-buy (as I am). How many of you are planning on doing 2.35:1? And if you are, how are you doing it? Outboard scaler, HTPC etc... or zoom?

Just curious how other people plan to get around this CIH issue.

In my case, I was going to use Zoom in the short-term, but the manual zoom is a bit of a put-off. If I knew there would be a firmware upgrade for CIH stretch in the cards I would feel a whole lot better...

Here is my plan. Panamorph U85 VC lens... 126" 2.37:1 High Power Screen

HTPC for DVD's and HD-DVD's (Yeah YXY!)

Then for HDTV cable (sports) and Wii, I'll use the RS1's built in horizontal squeeze for the correct 16x9 image with a fixed vertical compression lens. AVforums confirmed horizontal squeeze works on hi-def inputs.

I doubt I could go back to 16:9 now to be honest.

Gary


Gary - Do you watch much HD from broadcast? Do you mask the sides? That was my big hesitation when choosing a screen. I do watch a lot of HD.

Since the reports are that the black bars are so black as not to be distracting, I am going to try watching 2:35 with the bars first.

After reading all the posts on a CIH setup, I was thinking exactly the same thing.

It's not the bars, it's the size, resolution, brightness and contrast of the film that you benefit from when using the whole panel and all of the lamps light that makes CIH so good....but you guys knew that :cool: I mean, this projector is probably already going to be pretty darn good with letterbox 2.37:1... but just imagine how much better it may look with a CIH setup with a lens.

I may be missing something, but the usual reasons for doing CIH are (a) increase brightness, (b) do away with the black bars above 2.35 image, (c) take advantage of the unused resolution of the projector's panel and (d) be way cooler than other AVSers.

With the RS-1, based on reported viewings, (a) will only be needed if you want a light canon or 10+ foot wide screen or don't have good light control, (b) shouldn't be an issue, (c) may be helpful if you sit close and watch regular DVDs (high def I am not so sure about - a 1080p signal matches the projector's panel, so stretching it may add some scaling artifacts and actually degrade the picture quality, before we even get into the anamorphic lens may introduce some problems of its own) and (d) still essential.

Doesn't appear to me, on my 8 foot wide screen in my bat cave, that any benefit exists to CIH, except (d), which will never happen anyway.

Marcel J Dumeny

"I may be missing something, but the usual reasons for doing CIH are"

And that W I D E S C R E E N movies are actually shown wider then 1.78 AR material.

Shawn

I may be missing something, but the usual reasons for doing CIH are (a) increase brightness, (b) do away with the black bars above 2.35 image, (c) take advantage of the unused resolution of the projector's panel and (d) be way cooler than other AVSers.

Marcel J Dumeny

They may be considered usual benefits but they are not the most important IMHO. What I'm about to say has already been said in many different ways but it doesn't seem to be fully registering.

Caveat: Unfortunately, this most important benefit can only be experienced by those with sufficient width in their room.

Benefit: You can optimize viewing experience (read: screen size) for BOTH 16:9 and 2.35[U].

Why? You need a wider screen for 2.35 material than 16:9 material - a documented and known fact, you need to base your seating distance on screen height not, screen width. Why? Because we as human's are vertically challenged visually speaking - much better peripheral vision.

If you have a 16:9 screen that is as large as you can handle, and all you do is show a 2:35 material within it, you lose the true immersive quality of what that format can provide. That screen needs to be horizontally stretched out to get the most out of 2.35 experience, assuming you have the width to do that. If you don't have that width, then as many have pointed out, just stick to 16:9 screen until you move and get a wider room ;)

"I may be missing something, but the usual reasons for doing CIH are"

And that W I D E S C R E E N movies are actually shown wider then 1.78 AR material.

Shawn
My 1.78:1 screen is as wide as my room allows; a 2.35 could not be wider. And it's not like in a movie theater where the trailers are 1.78:1 and the main feature - curtains open w-i-d-e-r - is 2.35:1.

With the Powerbuy on the Panamorph UH380 going on, has anyone heard any definative answer if the RS-1 will have the proper scaling added to utilize the full panel?

My 1.78:1 screen is as wide as my room allows; a 2.35 could not be wider. And it's not like in a movie theater where the trailers are 1.78:1 and the main feature - curtains open w-i-d-e-r - is 2.35:1.

Same here.

Which means that if I went with a CIH setup, my 1.78 movies would be shorter than if using a 16:9 screen.

Same here.

Which means that if I went with a CIH setup, my 1.78 movies would be shorter than if using a 16:9 screen.
It only makes sense if you've drank the kool-aid.

It only makes sense if you've drank the kool-aid.

Actually Thunder's last post clearly outlined when it makes sense. If your room is not width challenged then the CIH setup makes perfect sense. It allows you to view 16x9 material at the same size that you are currently viewing it, while giving you a much larger 2:35 viewing experience. If your room IS width challenged then no, it doesn't make as much sense.

I may be missing something, but the usual reasons for doing CIH are (a) increase brightness, (b) do away with the black bars above 2.35 image, (c) take advantage of the unused resolution of the projector's panel and (d) be way cooler than other AVSers.

With the RS-1, based on reported viewings, (a) will only be needed if you want a light canon or 10+ foot wide screen or don't have good light control, (b) shouldn't be an issue, (c) may be helpful if you sit close and watch regular DVDs (high def I am not so sure about - a 1080p signal matches the projector's panel, so stretching it may add some scaling artifacts and actually degrade the picture quality, before we even get into the anamorphic lens may introduce some problems of its own) and (d) still essential.

Doesn't appear to me, on my 8 foot wide screen in my bat cave, that any benefit exists to CIH, except (d), which will never happen anyway.

Marcel J Dumeny

That sums it up well, for me at least. If I already had a 2.35:1 set up I'm sure I'd use it, but for all the reasons you mentioned I wouldn't start from scratch now...

There is clearly no right answer here - it really depends on your setup. In my case since my vertical dimension is fixed, going 2.35 allows me to maximize both my 16:9 and 2.35 content. But for those with width limitations the opposite is true.

I think for now I'm going to just zoom it in (manually) <sigh> and hope for a CIH stretch update later.

I completely agree with Thunder as far as the most important reason to do CIH (if the room will allow it). I'm not afraid to admit that I'll be using the "uncool" zoom method with the RS1. I'm actually limited to using around minimum throw in a small room, so I don't really have a choice. However, I'm anticipating fantastic results, as my Panny 900 already looks very good on my 8ft wide 2.35:1 screen.

Has anyone viewed this on a total blackout like the infamous Castaway scene. I've decided to sell my G70 but I'm a little worried since I can't see the RS1 first.

However, I'm anticipating fantastic results, as my Panny 900 already looks very good on my 8ft wide 2.35:1 screen. That's exactly what I said about my 900...until I saw the RS1. :eek: You are going to be blown away, my friend. You will be dancing about the room like whirling hobbit. :D :D

Okay I have read allot of stuff on the site, and I'm still confused. I just sold off my Sony G90 and will be installing an RS1 in place of it. With that said I'm trying to figure out what the perfect throw is for a RS1 when displaying a 119" (104 wide) 16:9 image. Is there any advantage to being closer or farther back?

Suggestions, please take into the consideration I'm new to Digital.

Assuming you have a light-controlled room and that the lumen reports are accurate, at your screen size it may not matter much where you put it within the throw range. But then again, at the top of the throw range many projectors lose a lot of their lumens and we really don't know yet how throw distance affects lumen output in this PJ (or at least not that I've seen). If you want to go to a 2.35 setup later you might want to go further back, but if you don't intend to do that I'd put it in the middle or short end of the throw range if you can. Thats one of the biggest advantages over CRT IMHO - installation flexibility and ease of setup.
EDIT: Forgot the obligatory PC link (http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-HD1-projection-calculator-pro.htm)

That's exactly what I said about my 900...until I saw the RS1. :eek: You are going to be blown away, my friend. You will be dancing about the room like whirling hobbit. :D :D

Absolutely. Even with all the tweaks, filters etc. (as seen in the AE900 tweaks thread), the AE900 can't hold a candle to the RS1. Even the AE1000 is a step below it.

Even the AE1000 is a step below it.
Just one step? ;)

Actually Thunder's last post clearly outlined when it makes sense. If your room is not width challenged then the CIH setup makes perfect sense. It allows you to view 16x9 material at the same size that you are currently viewing it, while giving you a much larger 2:35 viewing experience. If your room IS width challenged then no, it doesn't make as much sense.
Oh gosh, listen to - or read - yourself; "width challenged" - what the heck is that? Have you been into the kool-aid? :)

My screen is 92" wide - just fits between my L&R speakers. And the first row is 92" away; how much bigger an image would I need to show that my room isn't width challenged?

Any input on Height below top of screen?

My old ceiling mount is adjustible up and down? Just wondering if anyone has any input on where I should place it.

Otherwise I guess I will place it so I can just barely touch the controls?

Seems like the RS1 is really converting a large number of CRT guys over. Very interesting, especially because most folks still have not even seen the RS1.

I don't recall the Ruby doing this despite being revolutionary at the time. Guess we are finally hitting that point. I know we've passed the tipping point when Mark H trades in his CRT. I suspect it'll take another generation or two before we see that. Mark?

Okay I have read allot of stuff on the site, and I'm still confused. I just sold off my Sony G90 and will be installing an RS1 in place of it. With that said I'm trying to figure out what the perfect throw is for a RS1 when displaying a 119" (104 wide) 16:9 image. Is there any advantage to being closer or farther back?

Suggestions, please take into the consideration I'm new to Digital.

With a 119" 16x9 screen lumens shouldn't be an issue at any throw, particularly if you're used to a G90, but the throw does affect contrast. From the early reports we've heard that farthest throw maximizes on/off CR and closest throw maximizes ANSI. If you're used to a CRT I'd say use the farthest throw, that's what I plan on doing too.

Oh gosh, listen to - or read - yourself; "width challenged" - what the heck is that? Have you been into the kool-aid? :)

My screen is 92" wide - just fits between my L&R speakers. And the first row is 92" away; how much bigger an image would I need to show that my room isn't width challenged?

I do love a drink of kool-aid every now and then but let put it another way for you. :cool:

By width challenged I am saying that if you currently have a 16x9 image that you are satisfied with, then you can take that same image height and make the screen wider and then you would have the same size 16x9 viewing experience while having a more impressive 2:35 viewing experience. This only works though if your room is not "width challenged". If your dersired 16x9 image is already taking up your available width then in order to go to a 2:35 image you would have to go with a smaller 16x9 image. That is what I meant by a width challenged room, ie a room preventing you from getting the best of both worlds by going CIH. Was that clear enough for you or do I need to pass you a sip of my kool-aid? :)

Sorry...what is CIH? I tried to google this but didn't see anything that seemed to match this discussion.

Thanks

Constant Image Height

It would interesting to set up a JVC in a room where you could compare the shortest and longest throw and measure the difference in contrast. You could also get qualitative opinions from viewers as to whether they see a significant difference and how much of a difference it is. Does it matter to them? How does the difference in contrast between the shortest and longest throw compare to the difference in the look of the image of 2.35:1 with black bars or with a CIH setup. Of course, there is probably a sweet spot for throw, and/or room limitations that restrict how close or far you can mount your projector. Maximize what you have.

It would interesting to set up a JVC in a room where you could compare the shortest and longest throw and measure the difference in contrast. You could also get qualitative opinions from viewers as to whether they see a significant difference and how much of a difference it is. Does it matter to them? How does the difference in contrast between the shortest and longest throw compare to the difference in the look of the image of 2.35:1 with black bars or with a CIH setup. Of course, there is probably a sweet spot for throw, and/or room limitations that restrict how close or far you can mount your projector. Maximize what you have.

To make this information even more informative, I'd like to see a set of curves that plot contrast and lumens against lens throw ratio or projection angles. I'm thinking there may be a possibility that some or all of these curves are not linear. In other words, where is the sweet spot?

If your dersired 16x9 image is already taking up your available width then in order to go to a 2:35 image you would have to go with a smaller 16x9 image. That is what I meant by a width challenged room, ie a room preventing you from getting the best of both worlds by going CIH.

Using a 2.05:1 screen is another way around being width challenged. This ratio gives you an ability to have CIA (constant image area), which in my mind is the best of all worlds, if you can put up with changing the zoom ratio when going between 2.35 and 1.78:1or visa-versa.

Ric. It would have to have a much better lens before I would switch. Besides some increase in brightness (more ft-lamberrts on the screen), why would I want to switch? If I was starting over or all ready had a bulb FP and wanted to better blacks, sure. I will get one to play with since I can do so for far far less than the pre-buy price (don't ask how or where, you can't) and then sell it later. When my CRT needs an expensive repair (say retubing) then it will be time.

It would interesting to set up a JVC in a room where you could compare the shortest and longest throw and measure the difference in contrast. You could also get qualitative opinions from viewers as to whether they see a significant difference and how much of a difference it is. Does it matter to them? How does the difference in contrast between the shortest and longest throw compare to the difference in the look of the image of 2.35:1 with black bars or with a CIH setup. Of course, there is probably a sweet spot for throw, and/or room limitations that restrict how close or far you can mount your projector. Maximize what you have.
That is an excellent idea! Perhaps min, max and three equal steps in between - 20% increments. This is a major consideration - or should be - of everyone installing a front projector.

Ric. It would have to have a much better lens before I would switch. Besides some increase in brightness (more ft-lamberrts on the screen), why would I want to switch? If I was starting over or all ready had a bulb FP and wanted to better blacks, sure. I will get one to play with since I can do so for far far less than the pre-buy price (don't ask how or where, you can't) and then sell it later. When my CRT needs an expensive repair (say retubing) then it will be time.
I will get one to play with since I can do so for far far less than the pre-buy price (don't ask how or where, you can't)

OK we won't ask! I assume you are referring to the RS1?

This information would be VERY helpful for planning installs. Hopefully an early RS1 recipient will help. Is it reasonable for professional reviewers to include this information in their reviews?

It would interesting to set up a JVC in a room where you could compare the shortest and longest throw and measure the difference in contrast. You could also get qualitative opinions from viewers as to whether they see a significant difference and how much of a difference it is. Does it matter to them? How does the difference in contrast between the shortest and longest throw compare to the difference in the look of the image of 2.35:1 with black bars or with a CIH setup. Of course, there is probably a sweet spot for throw, and/or room limitations that restrict how close or far you can mount your projector. Maximize what you have.

This information would be VERY helpful for planning installs. Hopefully an early RS1 recipient will help. Is it reasonable for professional reviewers to include this information in their reviews?
"This information would be VERY helpful for planning installs." You said it. :)

I will be using the zoom as I understand it was used in the eh expo with the RS1 and people who saw it were in awe.

The added benefit is that bars won't be a problem since it displays absolute black according to many who have seen it.

The added benefit is that bars won't be a problem since it displays absolute black

Absolute black? I didn't think this existed (0 degrees Kelvin) outside of deep space.....

What is the light level generally considered to be 'fully black'? We always seem to see ft-L levels and contrast ratios, but I don't think I've seen a definitive answer as to how far down you need to go for a light level to be perceived as 'absolute black'.

???? :confused:

This is from JVCDig. While this is an alpha version it has been completely stable for me on Vista. I've not been able to configure a high shelf mounted setup but that might just be me.

JVC Alpha Version Lense Calculator (http://www.jvcdig.com/LensCalculators/JVCcalcv35a.zip)

EDIT: After exiting and going back in I'm able to do the shelf setup and tweak things..

Yes. An RS-1, that is what we are talking about.

The Chief mount for the RS1/HD1 is now shipping! Get your orders in now so you don't have your RS1 sitting on a crate when it arrives :) . First thing I will do before even turning it on is mount it.

The model number for this mount is xxx-184. Replace xxx with RPA, RPM, or SLB depending on your needs.

I currently use the RPA unit flush mounted to the ceiling. Downside of this (without using a pipe) is that the yaw adjustment is fixed. So I've switched over to the RPM style because of its micro adjustments. This will give me nice turning on each of the 3 axises. Between that and the RS1's horizontal lens shift I expect this to enable me to get the unit perfectly aligned and "square" with the screen.

Will invert ceiling mount mean, that the RS1/HD1 will use the built in fan more, thus making more noise?

No chance of mounting it "up side up", except on a shelf?

Will invert ceiling mount mean, that the RS1/HD1 will use the built in fan more, thus making more noise?

No chance of mounting it "up side up", except on a shelf?


I think there are some mounting solutions that use the pole and a cradle so the pj can mount upright (not upside down).

"I think there are some mounting solutions that use the pole and a cradle so the pj can mount upright (not upside down)."

They aren't nearly as neat and trim looking as the Chief RPA mounts but the Chief LCDA mounts will let you do this.

Shawn

Yes. An RS-1, that is what we are talking about.

OK, I won't ask. HOW MUCH? :p

OK, I won't ask. HOW MUCH? :p
Or, more importantly, WHERE. :)

The Chief mount for the RS1/HD1 is now shipping!

Thank you - ordered. :D

"I think there are some mounting solutions that use the pole and a cradle so the pj can mount upright (not upside down)."

They aren't nearly as neat and trim looking as the Chief RPA mounts but the Chief LCDA mounts will let you do this.

Shawn


100% Agreed!

Here is a Chief cradle type mount:
http://www.chiefmfg.com/store/detail/?product_id=80727

BartS, over at the AVFORUM has confirmed the arrival of the HD1 in the UK for Jan. 31. Looking forward to first user reports.

I realize it is adjustable, but what is the height above the screen when ceiling mounting the RS1 that it would be placed? In line with the top of the screen? Is that "standard"?

BartS, over at the AVFORUM has confirmed the arrival of the HD1 in the UK for Jan. 31. Looking forward to first user reports.

Yes, but still no word on the RS1. :( . Total speculation on my part but I'd say that at this point with the initial batch of HD1's rolled out of the factory perhaps now they are producing the first batch of RS1s. Still quite fuzzy as to when we'll get our paws on these units especially considering they are going to pass through JVC USA first.

Yes, but still no word on the RS1. :( . Total speculation on my part but I'd say that at this point with the initial batch of HD1's rolled out of the factory perhaps now they are producing the first batch of RS1s. Still quite fuzzy as to when we'll get our paws on these units especially considering they are going to pass through JVC USA first.

I agree.

Not trying to be a pessimist, but I have doubt that we will have the RS1 in our hands in the month of February.

Not trying to be a pessimist, but I have doubt that we will have the RS1 in our hands in the month of February.

I spoke with a local installer today who resells JVC Pro stuff. He called his distributor, and they said they will have a demo in the middle of February, and that he thinks they are supposed to start shipping end of February. Of course this is 2nd/3rd hand information, but at least there is some hope of receiving our pre-buy units by the end of Feb.

What is wrong with mounting upside down.

The manual says to remove the feet and use M5 screws to mount the unit upside down. If I use standoffs or bar stock to allow airflow between the mount and the projector what would be the problem. That shelf is one ugly looking ceiling mount to leave in the middle of a room.

I have doubt that we will have the RS1 in our hands in the month of February.I think you're right. Early March is probably a more reasonable target - depending on where you are on the list of course. In my case it gives me time to finish my HT - must be tough to wait for those of you are ready to go...

Not sure if this redundant but I am too lazy to go back look :) . I know the HD1 manual was posted but here is the US version RS1 manual. I haven't scoured it for differences between the two manuals but I do doubt there are any or many.


JVC RS1 Manual (http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/inst_man.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=11)

Thank you - ordered. :D


Chief doesn't sell direct. And another vendor I called has no information on this mount.

Where can you order it from?

Or - will Jason have these in stock?

Sorry. I can not and will not respond. It is not a price available to consumers. The pre-buy price is a great price. Be happy.

The Chief mount for the RS1/HD1 is now shipping! Get your orders in now so you don't have your RS1 sitting on a crate when it arrives :) . First thing I will do before even turning it on is mount it.

The model number for this mount is xxx-184. Replace xxx with RPA, RPM, or SLB depending on your needs.

I currently use the RPA unit flush mounted to the ceiling. Downside of this (without using a pipe) is that the yaw adjustment is fixed. So I've switched over to the RPM style because of its micro adjustments. This will give me nice turning on each of the 3 axises. Between that and the RS1's horizontal lens shift I expect this to enable me to get the unit perfectly aligned and "square" with the screen.

How much more (MSRP) is the RPM vs. the RPA ?

Sorry. I can not and will not respond. It is not a price available to consumers. The pre-buy price is a great price. Be happy.
Then why even mention it in the first place? :confused:

Chief doesn't sell direct. And another vendor I called has no information on this mount.

Where can you order it from?

Or - will Jason have these in stock?

Call Jason and order through him. He will know what you are talking about for sure.

Regarding pricing for RPM vs RPA - I'm not sure what the difference is. I just know that I was always frustrated because when you do a flush ceiling mount with the RPA you can only adjust yaw by using the screws on the bottom that are also used to fasten the unit to the ceiling.

So as you tighted the screws, the yaw would change slightly. You'd then put the pj back only to see it slipped again. Then it turned into a guessing game - how much less should you set it, knowing it'll turn more as you tighten it down. Bottom line is that it was a real PITA and probably never 100% right.

With the RPM you just need to be reasonably straight. Then you can use the micro adjustments to tweak all axises. Between this and the horizontal shift one should be able to dial it in PERFECTLY and much more easily than with the RPA.

must be tough to wait for those of you are ready to go... Boy, are you right! This past weekend I spent most of the day taking down blinds (on the window over which the screen will go), moving pictures off the wall where the screen will go, patching holes, etc. Also got the stand for the RS1, got a HDMI switch (from Monoprice) to feed the dvd player and cable stb into, so that I can send only one HDMI to the pj. And ordered this 25 ft HDMI also from monoprice, as well as a power extention cord. I'm just about READY!

Only thing I can't to beforehand is order the screen, since I don't want to decide between 119" and 133" HP until after I can put these images on the wall to see how they look in real life. I'm fighting two truisms: 1) go as big as you can, for you will always wish you had gone bigger afterward, and 2) novices (like me) always get too large a screen!

Sorry. I can not and will not respond. It is not a price available to consumers. The pre-buy price is a great price. Be happy.

Without revealing too much .. did what is in the following thread have anything to do with it? (post #128)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9501581#post9501581

Not sure if this redundant but I am too lazy to go back look :) . I know the HD1 manual was posted but here is the US version RS1 manual. I haven't scoured it for differences between the two manuals but I do doubt there are any or many.


JVC RS1 Manual (http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/inst_man.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=11)

Hi Kraig, I looked it over briefly but didn't see any differences between the RS1 and HD1. I did get a kick out of some of the useful commens like, "When Unit is Unused for a Long Time - Prolonged disuse of the unit may effect an error on the
functions. Turn on the power occasionally and operate the unit." :D

Jason mentioned awhile back that there was to be forthcoming announcement detailing the differences between the RS1 and HD1 has anyone heard anything more about this?

Boy, are you right! This past weekend I spent most of the day taking down blinds (on the window over which the screen will go), moving pictures off the wall where the screen will go, patching holes, etc. Also got the stand for the RS1, got a HDMI switch (from Monoprice) to feed the dvd player and cable stb into, so that I can send only one HDMI to the pj. And ordered this 25 ft HDMI also from monoprice, as well as a power extention cord. I'm just about READY!


Sounds like a good mother nesting in anticipation of her baby's arrival. 8)

Hey Mark. Another great line out of the manual,

"Install this unit and the screen. Place this unit and the screen perpendicular to each other. Failing to do so may give rise to trapezoidal distortion of the projected image."

Glad I caught this, never would have got the RS1 dialed in otherwise...

Jason mentioned awhile back that there was to be forthcoming announcement detailing the differences between the RS1 and HD1 has anyone heard anything more about this?

Yes. The difference is that they'll be getting theirs about a month sooner! :D

I figure we should be getting close to hearing more about this. I presume like others that it'll be related to screening units for bad pixels, MC,and possibly changing the color setting from the default to D65 and maybe even tweaking it closer to D65 (which I don't really care about since I'll do this myself - others without cali equipment would benefit from that though).

The retail price for the better mount (RPM) is $50 more than the lesser (RPA).

Pepar .A local friend of mine asked if I would be getting rid of my 9 inch FP CRT in favor of the DLA-RS1. See my post for my response. However, I said because I had the ability to get one very very cheaply, I would be getting one to play with. I am not at liberty to reveal how little, where, or how. It is not something that any consumer could do. I am not a consumer. That's it.

My point in saying to my friend that I was only getting one because it was cheap, was that I didn't consider it being a worthy replacement for what I already had. I wouldn't be trying one even if I were being charged direct dealer cost. That would be too expensive for me. The price I can get one is too good a deal for me to refuse.

Sounds like a good mother nesting in anticipation of her baby's arrival. 8)

Very good analogy. Let's hope the child is healthy.

Pepar .A local friend of mine asked if I would be getting rid of my 9 inch FP CRT in favor of the DLA-RS1. See my post for my response. However, I said because I had the ability to get one very very cheaply, I would be getting one to play with. I am not at liberty to reveal how little, where, or how. It is not something that any consumer could do. I am not a consumer. That's it.
Sorry, Mark, for jumping you. Some folks just can't resist dangling bait like that and a thread can get temporarily derailed. :)

. . . I didn't consider it being a worthy replacement for what I already had.
I'd (we'd?) be interested in hearing your comments on this subject after you've spent some time with the JVC.

I spoke with a local installer today who resells JVC Pro stuff. He called his distributor, and they said they will have a demo in the middle of February, and that he thinks they are supposed to start shipping end of February. Of course this is 2nd/3rd hand information, but at least there is some hope of receiving our pre-buy units by the end of Feb.

I have a good feeling that the people who are on the front line of the "pre-buy" will have this machine within the third week of Feb.

Hasn't been confirmed, but I think I might be on the front line.

Thats why the "good feeling". :D

Mark,

Sorry if you have mentioned this already. Any idea as to when you will receive your RS1?

Paper. It would have to be better to justify a replacement. It might double the lumens which might be perceived as what say a 30% increase in brightness? Something like that. My current FP can do 1200p. 1080p at 72 is a snap. I am not ditching the JVC, I am just not convinced it would be a step upwards. My FP CRT has been heavily modified by the great MP. It is one very special machine with the expensive G17 lenses too. As Ric says, a few more generations from now, it will be bypassed by perhaps an affordable consumer chip machine. Please, I don't want this to become a CRT vs bulb debate. I like bulbs. I sell bulbs, but I own a CRT. Get it? I am strongly attracted to amply endowed female red heads with long hair and slim tight behinds. My wife does not meet any of these criteria but I love her.

I am strongly attracted to amply endowed female red heads with long hair and slim tight behinds. My wife does not meet any of these criteria but I love her.LOL.

I am strongly attracted to amply endowed female red heads with long hair and slim tight behinds. My wife does not meet any of these criteria but I love her.

Mine does. All of them. :D

Aside from not being a redhead my wife has a few of those things as well but she does lack a few things that would be nice for her to have:

A mute button
An on/off switch
Something like a bark collar/zapper that I can press when she doesnt do as she is told
Separate bank/credit card accounts
A prenuptual agreement

Im sure there are a lot of other things that would be nice for her to have, but regardless she is the mother of my four kids and I do love her anyway. 8/

Make no mistake though, if my wife was a projector id be trading her in for an RS1.

I am strongly attracted to amply endowed female red heads with long hair and slim tight behinds. My wife does not meet any of these criteria but I love her.

I dated a girl in college that fit that description perfectly......except for the "amply endowed" part. So, I had to upgrade to the next available model.

This projector is not going to be a life changing event for those who are replacing a Ruby or Pearl.

For most, for those it will be much better blacks.

More like a CRT. The video processing will be better but I doubt most will be able to tell without having the old projector there for some serious A/B testing.

The lens I suspect but don't know might be a little better than the Sony lens. A little sharper.

The big difference, once again will be the blacks.

Rob and others. Shall we start with the better stacked pair analogies?

This projector is not going to be a life changing event for those who are replacing a Ruby or Pearl.

Noise is a concern, reading between the reviews it seems the JVC might be louder?

I noticed there are a couple of new pics of The beast on JVC's site and they are not a computer rendering like the first pic. :)

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/pics.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=04

The RS1 user manual specification indicates the zoom lens range is from 1.4:1 to 2.4:1.
The JVC Lens Calculator indicates the range from 1.24:1 to 2.77:1.
Does anyone know which of the two is correct?

If I had to guess, the smaller range, 1.4 to 2.4, the same as the Sony's. 1.24 to 2.77 is an extremely long range (as is 1.4 to 2.4) but more so and would be a very expensive lens to make with od prforming optics.

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/specs.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=03


According to the specs page, it is a 2.0 lens. 1.4:1-2.8:1 which coincides with everything I have read, and seen including the jvc calculator and the PC calculator.

The RS1 user manual specification indicates the zoom lens range is from 1.4:1 to 2.4:1.
The JVC Lens Calculator indicates the range from 1.24:1 to 2.77:1.
Does anyone know which of the two is correct?

When I looked at the chart, I came up with a min throw ratio of 1.37. I.e., 1.4 to 2 signficant figures, but a bit less.

Call Jason and order through him. He will know what you are talking about for sure.

Regarding pricing for RPM vs RPA - I'm not sure what the difference is. I just know that I was always frustrated because when you do a flush ceiling mount with the RPA you can only adjust yaw by using the screws on the bottom that are also used to fasten the unit to the ceiling.

So as you tighted the screws, the yaw would change slightly. You'd then put the pj back only to see it slipped again. Then it turned into a guessing game - how much less should you set it, knowing it'll turn more as you tighten it down. Bottom line is that it was a real PITA and probably never 100% right.

With the RPM you just need to be reasonably straight. Then you can use the micro adjustments to tweak all axises. Between this and the horizontal shift one should be able to dial it in PERFECTLY and much more easily than with the RPA.

Thanks for the info! I'll be ordering the RPM for sure. :)

'Pop', image depth, 3D effect, call it what you want. For me, the benchmark has always been the C3X, but I have read that owners are thinking of selling theirs to get an RS1. For those that have seen both, which do you think has the greatest perceivable depth?
I realise this is incredibly subjective and very hard to measure. I used to think ANSI CR was the only contributing factor but the RS1 proves this view wrong. When I saw the RS1, I thought it produced a very nice feeling of depth in dark scenes. I felt the extra resolution and excellent processing beat the C3X. Colour looked excelllent on the RS1 and it seems to be bright enough for most setups. Is image depth the only justification in price difference?

'Pop', image depth, 3D effect, call it what you want. For me, the benchmark has always been the C3X, but I have read that owners are thinking of selling theirs to get an RS1. For those that have seen both, which do you think has the greatest perceivable depth?
I realise this is incredibly sibjective and very hard to measure. I used to think ANSI CR was the only contributing factor but the RS1 proves this view wrong. When I saw the RS1, I thought it produced a very nice feeling of depth in dark scenes. I felt the extra resolution and excellent processing beat the C3X. Colour looked excelllent on the RS1 and it seems to be bright enough for most setups. Is image depth the only justification in price difference?

About 2 weeks ago I spent a couple of hours with the JVC HD1 with a selection of my own familiar HD DVD source material. On Sunday I attended a Sim2 demo showing the HT5000, C3X, D80 and D35. I'll exclude the HT5000 because at $50k+ it will be real option for a very small minority. Of the other Sim2's I thought the C3X had the best PQ. That said I was not "wowed" in comparison to my memory of the HD1 demo. Put them side by side with the same material and the difference may be more apparent but I didn't readily perceive a difference that I would have expected for a product 3-4 times the price of the HD1.

BTW the HD1 demo was on an 8' ST130 and the Sim2 on a Da-Lite Cinema Vision of a similar size. The HD1 and C3X both produce a beautiful image and personally I would select either of these over the D80. YMMV.

Dazzer

'Pop', image depth, 3D effect, call it what you want. For me, the benchmark has always been the C3X, but I have read that owners are thinking of selling theirs to get an RS1. For those that have seen both, which do you think has the greatest perceivable depth?

That depends on image content. Where ANSI is the bottleneck the SIM2 wins, where On-Off is the JVC.

I realise this is incredibly subjective and very hard to measure. I used to think ANSI CR was the only contributing factor but the RS1 proves this view wrong.
Every decent CRT projector proved this wrong since the dawn of home cinema.

When I looked at the chart, I came up with a min throw ratio of 1.37. I.e., 1.4 to 2 signficant figures, but a bit less.


Looking at the manual the projector distance is stated in relation to "image diagonal" not image width. Perhaps this is where the confusion comes in?

Looking at the manual the projector distance is stated in relation to "image diagonal" not image width. Perhaps this is where the confusion comes in?

Go to the JVC Pro website and find the RS1 page; click on 'Specifications'. At the bottom of this page it lists the min and max throw distance for a whole series of screen sizes (W = width, H = height). Take the ratio of the min throw distance to W (screen width); the average value is about 1.37.

While we're spinning our wheels waiting for our RS1's, I have a OT question I'm sure some of you can answer. I'm trying to get a feeling for how much my room lights up with a certain # of ftL's coming off the screen. I currently have an RPTV (Mits 73727, 73" 1080p dlp) and obviously know how much the room lights up with it. Suppose it's producing 30 ftL. Question is, will the RS1 and a HiPower screen that produces 30 ftL light up my room to the same degree, or more? (The only thing that I can think of that would be different is that light reflected from the walls of the room would also be re-reflected by the HP screen, but not by my RPTV. Is this the central difference?)

Guess some of the RS1 excitement has finally settled down a little.

I think this was posted earlier - but nice to see the warranty is 2 years and the bulb is 6 months or 600 hours. :)

Guess some of the RS1 excitement has finally settled down a little.
Excitement can only be sustained for so long without any real product in members' hands.

While we're spinning our wheels waiting for our RS1's, I have a OT question I'm sure some of you can answer. I'm trying to get a feeling for how much my room lights up with a certain # of ftL's coming off the screen. I currently have an RPTV (Mits 73727, 73" 1080p dlp) and obviously know how much the room lights up with it. Suppose it's producing 30 ftL. Question is, will the RS1 and a HiPower screen that produces 30 ftL light up my room to the same degree, or more? (The only thing that I can think of that would be different is that light reflected from the walls of the room would also be re-reflected by the HP screen, but not by my RPTV. Is this the central difference?)

Back when I had my pj out for service...I rolled a 57" rptv in to my theater for a short time and i recently bought/installed a 133" hp screen.

Since the front projector screen will be much larger than your rptv your going to likely get more light bouncing around the room....especially from the ceiling. At least in my case this is true anyway. Also the light will be hitting the walls and ceiling much farther toward the screen wall compared to the rptv. With the rptv I had deep shadows on the side walls and ceiling because the rptv stuck out 30+ inches into the room plus the rptv didn't throw the big field of light like the screen does.

A good thing about the HP is that it's retro-reflective in nature. So for the most part the only reflected light that is a BIG problem for the HP is light coming from directly opposite the screen wall. Reflections from side walls won't affect the HP near as bad as they would angular reflective screens.

Back when I had my pj out for service...I rolled a 57" rptv in to my theater for a short time and i recently bought/installed a 133" hp screen.

Since the front projector screen will be much larger than your rptv your going to likely get more light bouncing around the room....especially from the ceiling. At least in my case this is true anyway. Also the light will be hitting the walls and ceiling much farther toward the screen wall compared to the rptv. With the rptv I had deep shadows on the side walls and ceiling because the rptv stuck out 30+ inches into the room plus the rptv didn't throw the big field of light like the screen does.
Light control is more than heavy drapes (or NO windows) and should include dark walls and ceiling.

Oh what the Hell. Here we go again....

Anyone out there deciding on giving up their pre-order? Maybe you don't want to wait anymore or you have already bought another PJ?

I want in. I missed the boat when it first sailed.

Please let me know if so......

Russ

Light control is more than heavy drapes (or NO windows) and should include dark walls and ceiling.

I agree...I have very dark midnight blue ceiling tiles w/black grids and dark dark red walls(both painted with flat paint).

Even if you have a totally blacked out room your still going to get light reflections to some degree.

Oh what the Hell. Here we go again....

Anyone out there deciding on giving up their pre-order? Maybe you don't want to wait anymore or you have already bought another PJ?

I want in. I missed the boat when it first sailed.

Please let me know if so......

Russ

Several people are selling their spots. There is a thread on it.

;)

Several people are selling their spots. There is a thread on it.

;)

I do trust from your icon that you know that all that thread is tongue in cheek; having fun while waiting. I'm pretty sure that AVS will not go along with these kinds of games.

I agree...I have very dark midnight blue ceiling tiles w/black grids and dark dark red walls(both painted with flat paint).

Even if you have a totally blacked out room your still going to get light reflections to some degree.
You're right, I can't think of a photonic-equivalent of an anechoic chamber. :)

It's called a Black Hole.

The Eagle has landed :D

The Eagle has landed :D
Well, that's a cute l'il pic.

The Eagle has landed :D

That's a great start for those waiting on the HD1. Seems the RS1 is weeks behind it though unfortunately but as anticipated. Still no updated word on RS1 availability.

The Eagle has landed :D

Maybe I should charge copyright on that pic.

That's a great start for those waiting on the HD1. Seems the RS1 is weeks behind it though unfortunately but as anticipated. Still no updated word on RS1 availability.

Makes sense the RS1 is taking longer.. the beautiful all black finish simply takes longer. :p

Maybe I should charge copyright on that pic.

Thanks go to GaryB_UK for the photo :)

Dazzer

The Eagle has landed :D

nice thumnail pic

The Eagle has landed :D

We will have to take your word for it, since the picture doesn't help prove your statement!

What does the photo actually show? I can't make much of anything out of it.

:confused:

We will have to take your word for it, since the picture doesn't help prove your statement!

What does the photo actually show? I can't make much of anything out of it.

:confused:

It's a stack of Marshall amplifiers.

It's a stack of Marshall amplifiers.LOL.

I guess the jokes on me? :confused:

Maybe I should charge copyright on that pic.
Or license it for eye tests. :)

I enlarged it and I could swear I found Waldo.

I think this was posted earlier - but nice to see the warranty is 2 years and the bulb is 6 months or 600 hours. :)
Is this still true? Germany and the UK (maybe all of Europe?) have 1200 hour/1 year bulb warranties and was hoping to see the US receive the same.

I have a 119" Da-Lite screen and i'm wondering how far back I need to mount this RS1. I'm new to digital and this chart from JVC's site does not seem to make sense
Why do they state Wide twice, it states 7.31 as the Tele is that the distance?

Display size (16:9) Projection distance
Inch W (mm) H (mm) Wide (m) Tele (m)
60 1,328 747 1.78 3.63
70 1,549 872 2.09 4.24
80 1,771 996 2.40 4.86
90 1,992 1,121 2.71 5.47
100 2,214 1,245 3.01 6.08
110 2,435 1,370 3.32 6.70
120 2,656 1,494 3.63 7.31
130 2,878 1,619 3.93 7.93
140 3,099 1,743 4.24 8.54
150 3,320 1,868 4.55 9.16
160 3,542 1,992 4.86 9.77
170 3,763 2,117 5.16 10.38
180 3,984 2,241 5.47 11.00
190 4,206 2,366 5.78 11.61
200 4,427 2,490 6.08 12.23

I have a 119" Da-Lite screen and i'm wondering how far back I need to mount this RS1. I'm new to digital and this chart from JVC's site does not seem to make sense
Why do they state Wide twice, it states 7.31 as the Tele is that the distance?

Display size (16:9) Projection distance
Inch W (mm) H (mm) Wide (m) Tele (m)
60 1,328 747 1.78 3.63
70 1,549 872 2.09 4.24
...
190 4,206 2,366 5.78 11.61
200 4,427 2,490 6.08 12.23

W is the width of the screen, H the height (both in millimeters). the Wide column tells you the (minimum) distance from lens to screen with the lens as wide as possible (that's the photographic term for the minimum zoom). The Tele column is the (maximum) distance from lens to screen with the lens operating at full telephoto.

paul

I have JVC G-15, wondering if there is an update to Peerless PJRL100?

Anyone else have a Peerless PJ mount?
Or heard if there will be an update for the RS-1?

W is the width of the screen, H the height (both in millimeters). the Wide column tells you the (minimum) distance from lens to screen with the lens as wide as possible (that's the photographic term for the minimum zoom). The Tele column is the (maximum) distance from lens to screen with the lens operating at full telephoto.

paul

Thank you that makes sense, I have allot of room to mount as far back as 22 feet. So the Lens Width is the minimum mounting distance? Now for the really dumb question is W side to side of a screen (i.e Duh Width) or diag like in the old days. My screen is 104 wide but 119 diag.

The minium is pretty close to were my G90 was mounted so that will work, however I might move the PJ to the back of the room if there are no negative effects. Sorry still really new to Digitals this will be my first one.
So far the only thing I can find on the net points toFar end of throw = better on/ off contrast, closer = more ANSI. I'll do the old CRT cart tick to see where 1080p looks best to me.

My rooms is 100% light controlled, it's a shades of purple with dark purple carpet trimed in black under soffits / by screen. So Not gonna have any issues there :)

We will have to take your word for it, since the picture doesn't help prove your statement!

What does the photo actually show? I can't make much of anything out of it.

:confused:

Rob

Sorry I should have made it clear that the picture is from GaryB of JVC UK and shows, according to Gary, several stacks of HD1's in the UK Warehouse. Not sure if it was faked by NASA or if Elvis was involved in the delivery. :p

Dazzer

Is this still true? Germany and the UK (maybe all of Europe?) have 1200 hour/1 year bulb warranties and was hoping to see the US receive the same.

The UK pre-orders have a 3 year general warranty inc 1 year on the lamp.

Dazzer

The UK pre-orders have a 3 year general warranty inc 1 year on the lamp.

Dazzer

OK. So I'm not so excited about the US warranty after all. (although still beats the pants off of my Panny warranty)

Anyone else have a Peerless PJ mount?
Or heard if there will be an update for the RS-1?
I talked to peerless about two weeks ago and was told that htey did not even have a mount in developement for the RS1. But as I saw with Chief, you get different answers from different people at the same compan so you may want to check back.

...But as I saw with Chief, you get different answers from different people at the same compan so you may want to check back.

Well I am not affiliated with Chief but here's the only answer you need to know - for CERTAIN Chief has a mount for the RS1, the model # is xxx-184, and it is now shipping.

The UK pre-orders have a 3 year general warranty inc 1 year on the lamp.

Dazzer
Somwhere I read that each country's JVC is allowed to set their own warranty based on a market assessment and price their products accordingly to recover expected warranty costs i.e. US priciing is lower than UK I believe, so perhaps the warranty diffenence is part of the reason.

Well I am not affiliated with Chief but here's the only answer you need to know - for CERTAIN Chief has a mount for the RS1, the model # is xxx-184, and it is now shipping.
No, Chief is not the only company that makes mounts so it is not the only answer that one needs to know. I can get extremely good deals from my dealer on Peerless mounts, much better than Chief. Peerless would have been the way that I wanted to go and the way the other poster wanted to go. I named my source and posted the e-mails from Mitch Piper at Chief.. Also the retail of 159.00 for just the SLB bracket seems like a rip-off to me.

In Europe, there is a statutory 2 year warranty on most consumer electronics. JVC has exceeded what they are required to do in Europe.

In the U.S., there is no statutory warranty rule and a manufacturer need not offer any warranty if it so wished. In the consumer electronics area, there is, however, the practice for manufacturers to warrant their goods for 1 year. JVC has exceeded this as well.

The message they are sending in both areas is that they will stand behind this product to an extent that other manufacturers will not. It is nice to hear.

Somwhere I read that each country's JVC is allowed to set their own warranty based on a market assessment and price their products accordingly to recover expected warranty costs i.e. US priciing is lower than UK I believe, so perhaps the warranty diffenence is part of the reason.

Possibly. Also bear in mind that UK will be even higher due to tax whereas most US prices quoted exclude tax. In the UK VAT is 17.5% on goods and that's after the inland revenue take 40% of your earnings after allowance. :(

Dazzer

In Europe, there is a statutory 2 year warranty on most consumer electronics. JVC has exceeded what they are required to do in Europe.



This is not correct for the UK.


Dazzer

"Also the retail of 159.00 for just the SLB bracket seems like a rip-off to me."

That is nuts, I ran into the same thing.

AVS sells the bracket *with* the mount for about $20 more then just the cost of the bracket alone, and it ends up less then the list on just the SLB bracket.

Because of that I ordered a whole new Chief mount for the RS-1 and included the old mount/bracket with the sale of my old projector to sweeten the deal.

Shawn

This is not correct for the UK.


Dazzer

The U.K. is part of the EU. It may not have bought into the Euro, but its got this.

Click (http://europa.eu.int/smartapi/cgi/sga_doc?smartapi!celexapi!prod!CELEXnumdoc&lg=EN&numdoc=31999L0044&model=guichett)

Where did you order the Chief mount ?

From Jason at AVS. Jason@avscience.com

Shawn

Where are the reports from across the pond :) ?

Didn't they take delivery yesterday...

How much it the bracket and the mount together?

Where are the reports from across the pond :) ?

Didn't they take delivery yesterday...


According to JCV UK the product has arrived in the UK and is undergoing QC checks. The pre-order dealer has indicated Tuesday next for first shipments to the pre-order customers. :)

Dazzer