What is this Mitsubishi VS-1281? (Ebay 160052538232)
Would this be any better than my ECP 4101? I am interested because I am in Ohio, where the seller is.

Octavian

Close to an xg lc or g70. Liquid coupled EM focus color filtered monster.

Waaaaay better than ECP.

Problem is no parts, no help, you'd need a pronto remote, and you cannot tell how the tubes are without pulling the lenses because the lenses have a dichroic coating you can't see past.

If you can check it out in person and it turns out to be good you'll have a steal (for however long it works that is).

Troy

Thank you, Troy!
That pretty much will let me on my own and I am not, by any means, skillful enough to deal with it. I just learned enough, with a lot of help from you guys, to keep my ECP running. Thanks again,

Octavian

Yep you'd be completely on your own with it. There are only two of us that have one of them that frequent this board. Unfortunately mine turned out to have burn in on the tubes and I got burned buying it. Of course I've never used it enough to be able to help anyone even just set it up because of the burn in.

I wish that one were close to me. Id buy it if it were and they let me pull the lenses to check it out. But I sure wouldn't advise anyone not local take the risk of paying just shipping alone and gambling the tubes are ok.

They were great performers, but just too rare and you can't even get a service manual anywhere at any price these days.

All that potential performance sitting there for just a couple hundred bucks... Such a shame...

Troy

I've emailed those guys about that one, I'd bet, from their responses, its toasty brown...

Troy,
Thank you for your input. It is too much to drive there to check it out but for shure I can pick it up on a weekend so I will have no shipping cost. Whatever the guy (seller) will say about burns is irrelevant since, as you said one can not see the tube face through the lens. I see the Owners Manual and Setup Manual are still available online and if this projector is such a good performer I can afford a few hundred dollars for a toy for Christmas. I think I am going to go for it if the price remains reasonable.

Octavian

This may be helpful. I was trying to get service information on an older Mitsubishi CRT monitor (37") I was very surprised that any Mitsubishi service or parts number I called had no knowledge of such a model. In frustration, I called a main office somewhere and I finally got contact information for the people that handled the "professional" products. It is evidently very separate from the "consumer" branch. When I finally got to the right place, they had manuals, parts and very good service.

It has been a while but the numbers I have are: Tech (888) 307-0309
Parts (888) 307-0308

I can email you the setup and user manuals, don't pay for them.

A gambling man huh? :)

If they won't let you pull lenses you could always at least power it on and go to the internal full white test pattern or run in cycle to look for obvious burn if you can find your way there. You'd need to have a pronto remote with the codes already downloaded from remotecentral to get to the patterns.

Good luck. Might be a merry christmas for someone.

(Note they've tried to sell this one for what seems like a year. They should be open to just about ANY offer or letting you check it out however you like by now.)

Troy

Thank you Outwest, I will try that.

Troy, how hard is to get that remote?

Thanks,
Octavian

The Pronto remote codes are available here: http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=pronto&db=devices&br=mitsubishi&dv=projector&md=vs1280&kw=vs1281&st=&ar=&dt=&so=&pg=1&file=ccf_templates/projectors/mit-proj-vs1280.zip.

A factory remote is available here: https://secure.remotes.com/remotes/servlet/rs?da=Add&q=1&o=c&m=MITSUBISHI+VS1281&smodel=VS1281&brand_pn=MITSUBISHI_VS1281&uid=11639735461840&mode=large. I've ordered from this site just recently and they were very quick. I also once asked them about the actual availability of the VS1281 factory remote and they replied that it was something that they didn't have in stock but had to be ordered from their warehouse. I suppose thats retail-talk meaning from Mitsubishi. How much of a warehouse would they need to house the whole operation? So the reality is that it may or may not be available - you'll only know after you order it. The downside is that it costs $240 plus shipping.

The installation and Setup Manual is also available on Curt Palme's site: http://www.curtpalme.com/Mitsubishi_Downloads.shtm

I told the seller what seems like months ago that no one would pay a reasonable price for this projector unless he was willing to remove and photograph the lenses. He replied by posting different photos of the machine while turned on. The original photos made it look like the tubes had massive burn-in. Maybe they do, so watch it.

Is that the one that pops up on ebay occasionally with the really, really roasty screenshots?

philips pronto tsu 1000 universal remote as in ebay item: Z140052204544QQihZ004QQ

It would be totally ass crazy to spend equal to the cost of the pj for a factory remote and they probably can't actually get it anyway. Pronto will do fine, it's not a complicated remote to emulate, there aren't a lot of buttons like sony 12xx's etc.

I never could tell jack from the sellers screenshots. It's on a curvy cheet and not converged or focused. I don't think it's been popping up on ebay from time to time, seems like it's always been listed and dropping $20 a week since it was first listed for 600 or 900 or something like that.

VDC can rebuild those tubes for around $250 ea, if you actually wanted to go that route, but I don't think it would make any sense at all given I've seen minty xg135lc's for around $1200 recently and at least with something more common you'd have some assurance you could fix it or get parts if it broke.

Troy

This projector has been listed so many times that if it ever does sell, all the seller will recoup will be his Ebay fees.

This projector has been listed so many times that if it ever does sell, all the seller will recoup will be his Ebay fees.

Damn Straight

I do not feel that brave any more. I emailed the seller and he is not willing to do the inspection.
Thanks everyone for your info, I think I am going to look for another Christmas present.
Octavian

Hey! Someone bid on this projector! Who is calugara? I was hoping this would be the auction that wouldn't die but unless the bidder has a change of heart, this thing will no longer haunt Ebay nor tempt me to bid despite all of my misgivings (come on - I'll bet more than a few here at least thought about bidding on this). I will miss it.

What Lenses are on these things? A friend of mine just took his unit down for good.

I am the one who did it.
So much for a man's determination; I was telling the story about the mysterious PJ in South Ohio to my wife and she said she wouldn't mind to go with me over the weekend to pick it up, actually she was looking forward to such a trip South in this time of the year and gambling a few hundred dollars for the PJ would fit perfectly this adventure. So since this was HER idea of fun, I placed the bid. This was just to make her happy, I swear !?
Now if I'll get I will let you know what is in the box. In case there is any hope to bring it back to life, I am going to need all the help possible,actually I already got some valuable info from you guys.
If there is no hope, I was thinking it would look cute in my back yard with the lenses painted RGB and transformed into something useful, let's say, hmm, humming bird feeder?

I just passed through (HILLIARD , OHIO) yesterday. IF I had seen the auction while visiting family in NC, and IF I could have spared a few more days on vacation, and IF the room would have been available in my car, and IF a frog had wings,,,,,,,,,,,,

In any event, good luck on the auction.

One of these days when I am headed down south I will come across a potential deal like that and retire my old, crusty, but faithful VPH-1031Q.

Proprietary lenses can't be used on anything else or replaced with anything else.

You bid... It has a bid! The universe as I know it is changing.

Troy

Sorry I spoiled the fun for everybody ( watching falling prices every week, WallMart style), unless somebody spoils my fun by bringing the price where it was weeks or months ago...
Troy, I guess you were right, " a gambling man", but at least now I can blame somebody else: my wife... oh no, I am not going to do that, that's pitiful, or, maybe...
Anyway guys, I will let you know how it ends.

Octavian

Well, Octavian - I see you won this projector. Too bad you didn't bid last week; you could of gotten it for $269.99. I'll give you one bidding hint for the future : don't bid until the last moment. Bidding at the last moment might have prevented the only other bidder from increasing his bid several times and pushing up your winning total. It's certainly not a guarantee, but it's a psychological thing.

Anyway, I hope it works out. I almost slammed down on this projector several times, but backed off each time. It's supposed to be an excellent projector and I really wanted a liquid coupled projector but I couldn't quite justify it, considering what I've already invested in my current projector, not to mention that I don't have the room for it.

There's three auctions on Ebay for Mitsubishi tubes. Look like they're new or close to it. I don't know if they will fit your projector but if they do, I'd go for them - I doubt very much that there will many bidding against you. Here's the auction # for the green one: 270058863116.

Good thread guys. I was a bit short on Mits 1281 info so I added some extra info from this thread here: http://www.curtpalme.com/Mitsubishi.shtm

Didn't know it was LC... Mits calls this "Optically Coupled". (Not obvious). :)

Kal

Thanks Alan, I am sure bidding later would have saved some good money on this occasion, my opponent ( I sound like a politician now, don't I) had way too much time to add little by little to my final cost. I have to learn to do that, I heard there are even some programs that will bid for you at the proper time. The tubes on Ebay would be a great deal, unfortunately I have no idea what goes in this machine.
Thanks Kal, yes, now I need to get as much knowledge as possible.
By the way, can anybody tell me if removing the lenses poses any problems, I am afraid of breaking seals or something else I never touched a LC, actually I am only familiar with the ECP.
I intend to see the faces of the tubes first, then I'll decide it is worth buying a remote.
Thanks for your support,
Octavian

Well, the auction for tubes from the 1281 are for a 1281 (a wild guess..).

But they are bare tubes with the LC housings removed. They can be reassembled, but I don't know how hard it is on a 1281.

Troy, you have one of these machine, and you know you have burns on tubes. Are those on Ebay the right ones?
If they are you should go for it, I will stay put.
Octavian

Thanks Kal, yes, now I need to get as much knowledge as possible.
By the way, can anybody tell me if removing the lenses poses any problems, I am afraid of breaking seals or something else I never touched a LC, actually I am only familiar with the ECP.
Remove the lenses as you would any air-coupled projector. No difference. Once they're off it'll look like there's still a curved lens element stuck to tube face. THIS ONE YOU DON'T WANT TO REMOVE! Remove this and the glycol will leak out. You have to leave it in place (unless you want to actually replace the glycol).

Kal

Thanks, Kal!

Those aren't the proper part numbers and don't look right to me. They are lc but what's with that plate on the front of the c-element anyway? Some rp tube design?

Eissman sold a set of 1281 tubes a while back and has just a red left, it's on ebay mislabeled as sony/nec compatable.

For future reference the proper tube is a Toshiba made tube with mits part number vt07m72kb22. I wish I had a cross reference to the toshiba part number in case it was shared with any rptv's or available by other means. (EM tubes in a RPTV?)

Troy

www.stealthbid.com
I will never understand you guys who THROW your money away...

Thanks, Troy!
I will pick up the projector sometimes next week and I will let you know what I got.

none74, is this thing really working?

Thanks,
Octavian

stealthbid rocks, always use it now

Thanks both for the stealthbid tip. If I could turn the clock back probably it would have saved me lot of money on this auction. I will probably use it next time.
Octavian

There is NEVER a reason to NOT use it, imho, unless you really don't *want* to win all that much...or you like throwing money away...
If the auction is very, very, very important, find an auction for something under a buck ending within an hour of your target auction, stealthbid it just to make sure the service is not undergoing any changes which might interfere with a bid. Ebay changes stuff constantly, like how to sign in, when signing in is necessary, how often you have to sign in in a certain time period, etc. etc. On the very odd occasion, ANY snipe program or service can get caught by ebay's unannounced changes.
Ebay doesn't like snipes because they lower the ending bid dramatically, thereby lowering their cut. I've only had two failures out of literally hundreds of snipes, and both didn't bother me and could have been avoided had I checked with a trial snipe first.
I use it on every auction unless its a BIN.
The other huge advantage is you can't be tracked by your bids. If someone notices you've bid on stuff they are also interested in, they can do a search of all auctions where you are a bidder, by doing so, they can use you to find the deals, then they can swoop in and take them from you. Sniping absolutely prevents this.
PS: Do let us know how well toasted those tubes are. From the crappy pictures, it looked like the green was pretty crispy...

Ebay doesn't like snipes because they lower the ending bid dramatically, thereby lowering their cut

This is an interesting statement. How so? Maybe sniping lowers their take some but certainly not dramatically. If Ebay was that worried about sniping, they would allow an auction to be extended if there is any bidding within, say, five minutes of its scheduled end. Other auction sites do this. So long as there is a defined end, sniping will not go away.

You actually give good reason not to use Stealthbid and other similar services.

I never bid until the last 15 seconds or so. Doing so reduces the urge of a certain sort of bidder who must always be on top. It also prevents me from bidding again and increasing my bid past my maximum. And it prevents others from knowing that I am there and increasing their bid because of that knowledge.

Anyway, I'll bet the projector is in overall decent condition.

Well, ONLY considering the auction this is all in reference to, the difference in closing with a snipe and without, would have been almost $100. dollars...I would say that is a pretty dramatic change considering it is a $229. item...
I've seen the difference be as much as $600. between what the close would have been with a snipe, and what it was WITHOUT a snipe.

I don't know why ebay doesn't change their auction ending strategy, but I suspect they believe it would significantly, negatively impact their popularity.

Also, I just thank God they don't change it, its becoming so difficult to find a bargain any more, that would further hinder MY chances...

Well, ONLY considering the auction this is all in reference to, the difference in closing with a snipe and without, would have been almost $100. dollars

No .... it would have been nothing. The last bid was placed a little over a half hour before the end of the auction. Not exactly sniping in my book. The only effect sniping has on the final value is that it gives those that have been outbid very little or no time to increase their bid. In every auction, if everyone would enter their maximum bid once it would not matter if those bids were entered one second after the beginning or one second before the end of the auction. The auction would end up with the same final value. Your view that sniping costs Ebay loads of fee money is not correct. You could argue, however, that it costs them a little bit of money.

No .... it would have been nothing. The last bid was placed a little over a half hour before the end of the auction. Not exactly sniping in my book. The only effect sniping has on the final value is that it gives those that have been outbid very little or no time to increase their bid. In every auction, if everyone would enter their maximum bid once it would not matter if those bids were entered one second after the beginning or one second before the end of the auction. The auction would end up with the same final value. Your view that sniping costs Ebay loads of fee money is not correct. You could argue, however, that it costs them a little bit of money.
I'm not sure if you are seeing how this auction played out....
The winning bidder was only bidding against ONE other bidder, who did NOT enter his highest bid on the first attempt. This is a common occurence, and some actually use this as a method of searching out someone else's maximum automatic bid.
Had the eventual winner used a snipe, the underbidder would have only put in that first bid, and would not have had time to put in all those other INDIVIDUAL bids...
So, it did result in ebay getting fees on almost $100. more closing value than if the eventual winner had used a snipe.
The under bidder was spurred to keep putting progressively higher bids ONLY because he couldn't find the eventual winners upper limit of his "auto" bid...

For me is certain that bidding late would have saved me some good money. Sure, one can bid in the last few seconds by himself but what if you are not available or have no access (at work) or lose connection in the last minute? Here comes in handy a tool like Stealthbid and, being used and recommended by some people here represents for me a big plus.
Now, talking about the tubes of the PJ, I got from you guys some thumbs-up and some (more) thumbs-down opinions. My personal positive opinion was driven by the fact that the thing was capable to throw an approximate image ( I thougt it was a sunset) even without proper input, convergence or focus. The ugly shapes on the "screen" I considered to be part of the unfocused image and not burns. Also, since the beams of the roof or the warehouse were visible, I thougt the projection took place in day light and I thought the image was quite bright for such conditions.
Anyway, the deal is done and Isee it now as a valuable learning experience and so far, fun.
For those of you who have an opinion formed or are simply curious, I will post pictures as soon as the lenses come down, that will be next week, I didn't pick it up yet.
Octavian

So - you have this set now, right? Does it work? Have you tried to display a picture yet? Pulled the lenses?

I got it today, it has been a cold/snowy/stormy day in North Ohio but beatiful cold in the South. I got the lenses off while it was still in the back of my warm SUV trying to make it less heavy. I took the lenses in the house then, with the help of my wife ( who still says she enjoyed the trip) I moved the rest in the garage and I took the pictures.
It looks the green has some burn, how bad is it?

I don't think the pictures have been attached. How do I do that?

I don't think the pictures have been attached

Below the reply box, click on Go Advanced, then on Manage Attachments and follow the instructions.

The files were too large, I forgot the camera on high rez. But you can see them here:

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/octaviannita@sbcglobal.net

Octavian

The tubes look pretty decent, not perfect, but certainly well worth the price you paid. Hopefully the photos aren't deceptive. I think you did well and I'm mad because I didn't take a chance! Now, pray that it never breaks.

I'd call that a win. Certainly for the price. Congratulations.

As long as the wear is even it'll still throw a good pic.

Just make sure you set it up properly so you can get enough life out of it to pay you back.

Troy

Thanks for your encouragement guys, the thing is still in my garage (attached but not heated) covered with blankets, I don't have the man-power to move the 270Lbs in the basement yet. I will do it over the weekend and then I will wait at least a couple of days before turning it on to let the cold and moisture go away.
I have to get a remote anyway, and, talking about the remote, I found a new factory remote for $99.00, woldn't that be better than Pronto TSU2000 that runs at about the same price?
I also found (Thanks, Outwest!) the Service Manual for VS-2180 (close enough?) for $83.00 but I am not sure if I am good enough to use it.
Octavian

VS-2180

Hopefully, you mean VS1280 and, if so, it certainly is close enough. Same machine with, I suppose, some differences - I wouldn't know what.

I'd snatch that factory remote in an instant. I don't like emulators; I always use the original, which means I've got remotes all over the place.

270lbs. :eek: are you sure on that; I don't see how any 8" machine could weigh that much, I hope you mean 170 :)

Looks like a nice machine, never heard what you ended up paying but reading other replies is seems you got yourself a pretty good deal

Thanks Alan,
Yes, I meant VS1280 which looks like the predecessor of 1281 (the remote works on both),
I like the manufacturer's remote too, otherwise are to many settings and names to remember.

Donaldk,
I was not talking about the Owner/Setup manual that gracefully our fellows offered and I got but about the SERVICE MANUAL, hard to find which seems to be still available.
Thanks,
Octavian

Thanks Fellenz, it is 170, I am very bad with numbers especially tonight as you can see from my previous post. The Ebay No. of the auction is on top of the story.

Donalddk nobody has the service manual in electronic form, all I have is user and setup.

I still wouldn't go with the factory remote in this case, but hey to each their own. It's as simple a remote as a barco, not like an NEC or Sony where no doubt the factory remote is much easier.

Enjoy either way.

I'd sure love an electronic copy of that service manual. :)

Troy

From some threads on this machine on the Dutch forum, I gathers they put out a great picture at 720P or 1080i, but that's about where it peaks.

I don't know where you came from, but since yesterday the board is filled with your inaccurate statements that prove that you know little if anything about CRTs.

The VS-1281 should be every bit as good as an XG, or G70, or Cine 8 Onyx. Maybe only the Cine 8 D beats it, but that would be the rarest PJ of them all.

BTW, here's the Windows monitor profile for the VS-1281E:

Thanks!
I don't think I am going to buy the Service Manual, I don't have the necessary skills to use it. For anybody who wants it here is the place:
As I said, I followed the lead provided by Outwest, to Mitsubishi parts for presentation devices. The number to call is 1-888-307-8404. If you want to order the manual you don't need a part number jus Service Manual for VS1280. If you want the remote, the part number is 939P587010 ( I think is the same that the Remote guys are selling for $240). They also have a tech available who can look for part number. You will have to order by Fax.
Octavian

It was only today that I had the PJ moved in the basement, so it spent more than a week in the garage (attached but unheated). What would be a safe waiting period ( for temperature and humidity adaptation) before turning it on?
Also, since I have the lenses off, what kind of cleaning ( I read Mr. Bob's ad) would be wise to do at this time?
Thanks,
Octavian

I'm pretty sure you should wait at least 24 hours before powering it on to allow moisture to evaporate; I can't really help you with what or how to clean though, I usually just blow the dust bunnies out ;)

Thanks Fellenz, I am going to give it at least that time.
About cleaning the lenses, I better leave them alone, they are coated so I might damage something by cleaning.
Octavian

I think you can find the "recipe" for lens cleaning formula on curt's website in the advanced procedures section. somthing like kodak photoflo should also work nicely.

Good Luck :) ,

Fellenz

I need some help!
I have the factory remote and the projector responds to all commands as far as I can tell. I plugged in an SVideo cable from the satelite box and I had an image but upside down, for the ceiling (my setting is going to be on the floor). The mechanical angle settings for lenses are at "M" position which corresponds to my screen size. I changed the connectors as required by instalation manual and I got a decent straight square image. I am reading the Installation Manual, I am getting nervous, and my question is this: do I have to go through all the settings in the Service Menu (Raster, Blanking, Color etc) or just install at right distance and angle and just do the adjustments in the User Menu?
I understand I can adjust the size from the back knob on the lenses (sorry, I only played with ECP so far) so should I change the raster? If bow/ pin adjustments are needed can I do it from the simpler menu?
Thanks,
Octavian

"I plugged in an SVideo cable"

Similar to: I've put a 4cylinder engine in my ferrari

"Should I go through all the service menus"

Similar to: Will it perform like a ferrari again if I just tune the 4 cyl?

:)

There's no point in doing anything with svideo period, it works, that's all you get from that.
When you have a real source then you will want to be sure you have centered raster and are using as much of the tube face as is practical within the old raster but that's a whole lot of work for svideo which will only put uneven scanline wear in the tubes if you use it that way anyway. It's not ok to use svideo period. IF you use svideo long enough you will just end up with permanent pink scanlines worn in the tube faces which will be visible even when you are using a high res signal.

Again let me remind you though that I don't have enough time on the mits to really help you and nobody else that is still around here will either. Mostly on your own...
The advice I'm giving is based on general crt knowledge. To be slightly mits specific it is based on STK convergence chips and we all know from NEC's that you don't want to use a lot of convergence anywhere to overcome improper setup at all or you can burn them out. If your picture isn't close to converged with convergence off or zero'd then yes you have to go through whatever it takes to get it best you can with physical and service menu stuff before any "convergence" adjustments are even in the picture. But do not bother with svideo period.

How long will a ferrari engine run on the lowest octane cheapest pump gas I can find?


Troy

Hi Troy,
If this is like a Ferrari compared to my old ECP (Volkswagen), now I am really scared.
No, I do not intend to run it on Svideo, I just tried it on the side of my ECP. It will be hooked up to my DEUCE SDQ Intelligent Viveo Scaler/ Doubler/Quadrupler through a high quality RGBHV cable, as soon as the ECP is removed (it goes to storage for back-up, I loved it, very reliable).
My basic question was, if, after final installation, the image is close to good, should I mess with factory settings in Service Menu or just do User Menu?
Thanks,
Octavian

"My basic question was, if, after final installation, the image is close to good, should I mess with factory settings in Service Menu or just do User Menu?"

I answered that question above. The answer was:
To be slightly mits specific it is based on STK convergence chips and we all know from NEC's that you don't want to use a lot of convergence anywhere to overcome improper setup at all or you can burn them out. If your picture isn't close to converged with convergence off or zero'd then yes you have to go through whatever it takes to get it best you can with physical and service menu stuff before any "convergence" adjustments are even in the picture. But do not bother with svideo period.

Everyone has their own version of close to good, but the fact is it should be f'ing damn close to converged with no convergence. That means not only raster centering and width, phase, toe in, mounting square to the screen, doing sheimflug etc but also all the magnetics on the tube should be set properly. You may need to level the horizons or fix improperly mounted yokes to eliminate a fisheye effect. It all depends on how poorly the person before you set that up or if any of that moved in shipping to you. (One thing I have been warned of that is mits specific is they did not glue down the yokes properly in production, so those may be off. If you see a fisheye effect or one color is completely no level compared to others look at the yokes on the tube neck and glue them down so they don't even change with temerature variation.

But bottom line there is absolutely no point in doing any of this with svideo. Every setting in both service and convergence menu is specific to the input so there's no sense in spending 10 hours on svideo mucking around in the service menu to get svideo right at the possible expense of messing up things that would also affect the resolution it should actually be run at. But yes, when you get your proper high res signal even if it is only upscaled sd (I hope you have better than that, because if not maybe you should save this pj in a closet until you actually do have hd or just pass it on) then you should and must do everything necessary to get the picture as optimum as possible BEFORE convergence. With convergence all zero'd (or at 50% or whatever equals no convergence on the mits) then you should be very very close to a watchable picture with no convergence at all. Maybe it will only look good in the center, or maybe the edges will look ok but the center will be off, but one way or another convergence should not be stressed with any crt projector not just the mits. This fact (coupled with no cleaning and other overheating) is the reason so many have failed at getting long life and proper performance from their crt projectors.
Easily over 50% of failures and bad experiences are due to improper setup and I'd be inclined to say that it's closer to 75 percent of all problems of any kind. If you do this all properly you could be in 7th heaven for years to come. You have the chance to get the performance that others spend many thousands for.


No, it's not a ferrari. It's not that tempermental or fragile. Mitsubishi has a track record that almost no other company can beat across the board, from cars to RPTV's etc, way beyond sony etc, but if you just sticky tape it to the ceiling (yes an exageration) and converge the hell out of it instead of setting it up right and doing toe in and raster cenetering and aligning blue and red to green with phase or whatever is appropriate for your model) it will die on you in short order and you won't even have a chance at enjoying what you just got for next to nothing. Mitsubishi makes some of the best of everything, don't waste it.

Be smart... All crt projectors share this same limitation and the biggest reason so many folks have had trouble is they don't do it right. Half the time they don't even look at crt toe in, they don't consider what running many zones of convergence near max will do to overheat chips and stress the electronics. They just don't know the basics of all crt projectors which is it needs to be as spot on as possible and installed properly to give them the long life and exeptional results you should expect.

If you are not going to do it right, don't do it at all. I really question the need for a better projector if you don't have HD and don't run a htpc for anything other than sd also, but I guess you would still benefit from LC optics so technically it would look a bit better even on SD.

Troy

Thanks, Troy!
No, I do not have HD yet, but eventualy I will. For now I intend to install it at my scaler's max rez which is 1280 x 1024. I will make sure I check all those details pointed out before attempting final Conv.
I got Inst./Setup Manual from Curt's site, is there any more info in the User Manual, and if it is, is your offer to Email it to me still standing?
Thanks again,
Octavian

I have files named Mitsu1281OPR8.zip and MITSUBISHI-1281SETUPINSTAL.zip.
I thought I uploaded both for curts site, but if you don't have one let me know.

I have not gone through them to find out their contents, I had no need to setup my burned projector.

The only other thing I have is this brochure attached:

Troy

Hi Troy,
On Curt's site I found "Setupinstal" and the brochure. Maybe the other one Mitsu1281OPR8.zip is missing.
Thanks,
Octavian

PM me your email address or a place to upload a 2 meg file.

Troy

Octavian: I'm interested to know if you believe this was a worthwhile purchase. In other words - how has the VS1281 worked out for you?

Me too...

I bet it's still sitting in a closet or something and he hasn't even mounted it yet.

Troy