Thanks to JaremyP for the inspiration. See his DC adapter hack thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=754430

We have a front projection system, and last night (first with the Wii) we had everything in the open (rather than in the media rack custom built for the room) due to this sensor bar issue. While it worked fine, it was inelegant, at best, and I needed a better solution.

I was hoping I could get Jaremy's fix to work, but I was unsuccessful, as he was at first, with an old universal adapter (set to 7.5V) that I found around the house. It's possible that my adapter was shot (I didn't test it with another appliance before snipping its wire) or my soldering was poor.

So to try and achieve something a little better (and not requiring soldering the tiny little wires) I went to "the Shack" this evening and bought:

1. A five-pack of 9V Battery Snap Connectors (~$1.99) part 270-325
2. A pack (24) of insulated telephone "Butt connectors" for 22-26 gauge wire (part #64-3073). No, I'm not joking--that is what they're called. They are basically a small cylinder surrounded by an insulated sheath. You stick a bare wire in each end, and then crimp the middle.
3. One 9V battery

I proceeded to strip the wires as in Jaremy's post, and simply crimped the battery connector wires to the sensor bar wires using the butt connectors (red from the battery connector from the Wii sensor bar red wire, and black from the battery connector to orange from the sensor bar).

I did a quick test with my old sensor bar unplugged, and it seems to be working perfectly. One disclaimer--I haven't tested this for any lengthy period, yet. I would also suggest that you do this with a replacement sensor bar rather than your original(they're in stock shipping straight from Nintendo, for $10).

Just a thought:

You can buy the lithium battery holders (watch/medical/the thin ones) at Radio Shack and use one of those instead of a 9v. That way you could find a 7.5v if you have any issues, and I'd imagine that the current draw is so miniscule that it will last a long time and be a much smaller, easier to hide element.

-n

pictures?

Just a thought:

You can buy the lithium battery holders (watch/medical/the thin ones) at Radio Shack and use one of those instead of a 9v. That way you could find a 7.5v if you have any issues, and I'd imagine that the current draw is so miniscule that it will last a long time and be a much smaller, easier to hide element.

-n


Good point. I went with the 9V because Jaremy found that it required 7.5V or so, and since I knew it would be easy to unhook at the end of a gaming session. I guess I could also wire a switch in the circuit, but this was a first attempt. A single (4 AA) battery holder might have been better since rechargeable AAs are so easy to find, but I wasn't sure that 6V would be sufficient given what I had read. To be honest, I have no idea how long the 9V battery will last. I tested for around 2 hours of continuous use with no issues, but it's anyone's guess how long it will take to drain the battery.

I'll try and post a picture at some point. It's not going to look too exciting, and I didn't take pictures during the modification process.

did you notice any improvment in range with running them at 9v?

did you notice any improvment in range with running them at 9v?


Good question, but I didn't test this. It wasn't a primary objective (since we have perfectly fine Wiimote usability from the 12' distance of our first row of seating). I may and try to compare the two to see if there is an obvious difference.

KK

kktx: I'd be interested to know how long your 9v battery lasts when the sensor bar is running off of it. I ordered the Radio Shack parts to do the same thing you did, and I'm curious as to how many batteries I should pick up.

Thanks for the easy-to-follow explanation!

This is a good idea. It might be handy to throw a switch in there, too, so you can turn it off when you aren't using it.

So far, I've used the battery powered sensor bar for a total of about 5-6 hours without the battery failing and with perfect performance thus far (ordinary Radio Shack alkaline 9V). I went online to buy some bulk 9V batteries. It looks like you can get Duracell ProCells (not sure if these are actually better than the standard ones) for about $1 each. This is significantly better than the $2-3 typically charged for a single battery.

I've been unhooking the battery manually at the end of each use session, but I think the switch idea is a good one.

Has anyone tested the voltage coming out of the Wii? Are there only two conductors coming out of the Wii?

As far as running 7.5V, you can just run 5 AAs in series.

It's also worth noting, as no one has mentioned it, that over driving LEDs can significantly reduce their life. Whil LEDs typically have lifespans in the tens-of-thousands-of-hours range, overdriving them could make it a fraction of that or even burn them out in a matter of hours if significantly too high. Also they might not burn out entirely but provide drastically lower output which would probably make them ineffective for the wiimote.

It has been my understanding that most LEDs cannot be run directly of batteries but need some resistors. But as there are, what, 10 LEDs in the sensor bar, maybe they offer enough resistance if running in parallel. If I'm not mistaken running cells in series increases voltage while running loads in parallel increases total resistence. For those more knowledgeable, is this correct?

JaremyP did a reading and got 7.8V. Without testing further, I used this as my frame of reference for deciding on a 9V. As for running 5 AAs, it's easy to find a cheap battery holder for 4AA, but not more.

If I burn out my sensor bar, I'm out $10, so I'm not too stressed about the possibility of overdriving the LEDs. For all I know, there may already be one or more resistors within the sensor bar, and I suppose we could find out for certain if some intrepid owner is willing to take a hammer to his/her sensor bar.

Also, you'll note that I did it with a spare purchased from Nintendo, so I can always default to the OEM version, though I suspect that won't be an issue.

i just ordered a second sensor bar. i'm going to try this out next week (assuming i get the sensor bar)

so if i walk into the shack with that parts list, can they recommend an inexpensive switch to use or should i plan ahead? any suggestions?

I know I've seen 5 AA cell battery hoders before but I did a quick internet search and nothing comes up. Oh well. You could get a six cell holder and just solder a jumper across one of the slots that would work just as well.

i just ordered a second sensor bar. i'm going to try this out next week (assuming i get the sensor bar)

Where did you order the sensor bar. A search at http://store.nintendo.com for wii doesn't return any sensor bar for sale.

Where did you order the sensor bar. A search at http://store.nintendo.com for wii doesn't return any sensor bar for sale.

Don't try and search. Click on the "Part Finder" button on the lower right side of that page, or navigate through the submenus to Wii Parts and Accessories. You'll find it soon enough.

You guys may not know this but you can make your own sensor bar .. You just need to put IR LEDs in a row or as an array.. it might be nice to make it bigger as well for those of that stand farther from your tv than others. maybe double or triple rows of IR LEDs


You can get them at radio shack or maybe order them. The send side of the IR LED.

If you don't want to overdrive your sensor bar, I would suggest instead using a 7.2V battery pack. You can get these at the shack too:

7.2V RC battery pack + Charger ($24.99) 24-322
Connector Repair Kit ($3.99) 23-445

Solder the bare wires of the repair kit onto the Sensor Bar for easy connect, disconnect.

As for creating your own Sensor Bar, Radio Shack also stocks infrared LEDs:

High-Output Infrared LED (1.2V, 100mA, $1.79 Each) 276-143

Doing some quick calculations, if you wire up 6 LEDs in series with the 7.2 V battery pack you should get roughly 1.2V across each LED

I tested the Voltage coming out of the Wii for the sensor bar, and it went from between 12v and 12.5v.. I tried a 9v battery and it woulden't work very good from where I sit from my projection screen (about 11ft) (the cursor was jumping all over the place, not enough power I guess).

So i decided to use a 9v power supply that was giving about 12-13v output (according to my multimeter) and it works great, I can even stand in the back of the room (16ft from the screen) and it has great response.

And I also did this without cutting the wire on the sensor bar, I just took a small speaker wire and then cut down a pencil end to fit inside of the connector, and then stuck it into the connector along with the wires (so that the wires will stay in, and stay on the sides) and then taped it up (the side of the connector that is angled is - and the flat side is +).

I'm happy that I don't have to have the sensor bar on my coffee table now and don't have to trip on it every 5 minutes.

For those interested, I found a 6-AA battery holder here:

(Since I can't post links yet, just google Thomas Distributing and go to the battery holders link)

6 AA NiMH @ approx 1.2V each = approx 7.2V output. Great if you're already an avid NiMH fan and you have a charger and whatnot. I'm going to try running this to the 9V plug but with an inline switch, see how it goes!

i'm headed to the shack. going to try the 9v hack first and see if they can recommend a switch. my 2nd sensor bar shipped friday, but didn't get picked up by ups yet, so worst case i'll have it tuesday or wednesday. i'm hoping 9v works since i'm about 11-13' back from the screen.

I tested the Voltage coming out of the Wii for the sensor bar, and it went from between 12v and 12.5v.. I tried a 9v battery and it woulden't work very good from where I sit from my projection screen (about 11ft) (the cursor was jumping all over the place, not enough power I guess).



Interesing...I'm also using this in a front projection setup. Our first row of seating is at 12' and the second row is at 18'. No problems (following extensive use) in the front row, and at least anecdotally, things also worked from the second row. Perhaps you should increase the sensitivity in the Wii menu? Mine is set at "5" (highest setting) and I have no problems.

I ordered a bunch of 9V batteries online for about $1 apiece. I should add that I forgot to unplug the battery one evening, and the sensor bar still worked the next day. That means that the original 9V battery I tried has been working for over 18 hours.

i went to the shack and bought 4 9volt batteries, the connectors listed above and the little crimp connectors. i tried it first with a piece of pencil so i didn't have to cut the wire and it works great. i just taped the two ends on the side of the little piece of wood as described above and it works great. with my front projection setup i am about 12' back.

thanks for the great tip!

Interesing...I'm also using this in a front projection setup. Our first row of seating is at 12' and the second row is at 18'. No problems (following extensive use) in the front row, and at least anecdotally, things also worked from the second row. Perhaps you should increase the sensitivity in the Wii menu? Mine is set at "5" (highest setting) and I have no problems.

I ordered a bunch of 9V batteries online for about $1 apiece. I should add that I forgot to unplug the battery one evening, and the sensor bar still worked the next day. That means that the original 9V battery I tried has been working for over 18 hours.

I did try that, it did not help and it was a brand new battery.. Not a big deal though since i was planning on hooking up a power adapter anyway.

Call me dumb but I don't get the Pencil thing (maybe it's because I don't have a Wii yet so can't see the connector).
Can someone who's left the sensor bar intact please post a picture?
Thanks

Call me dumb but I don't get the Pencil thing (maybe it's because I don't have a Wii yet so can't see the connector).
Can someone who's left the sensor bar intact please post a picture?
Thanks

To be honest, I'm a bit lost about the pencil thing, too. I'm not sure how I could have done this without clipping the sensor wire, so if it's really possible, some additional clarification would be appreciated.

i cut down a piece of pencil so that it was about 2mm square and about a half an inch long. then i taped the two leads from the 9-volt connector to it and inserted it into the actual plug of the sensor bar. i did it this way because i don't have my 2nd sensor bar and i didn't want to risk messing it up. i was a little skeptical that it would work, but it works fine. does that make sense?

I think so - so you basically make pins which push into the female connector - is that right?

no, i made pins that pushed into the male connector of the actual sensor bar cord/plug

I'm sure it'll all make sense when I get my hands on one. Only 3 more days to go to UK launch!

i cut down a piece of pencil so that it was about 2mm square and about a half an inch long. then i taped the two leads from the 9-volt connector to it and inserted it into the actual plug of the sensor bar. i did it this way because i don't have my 2nd sensor bar and i didn't want to risk messing it up. i was a little skeptical that it would work, but it works fine. does that make sense?

I get it now--thanks!

In the absence of pics, I'm hoping my son can help disect this thread for me. He gets his Wii for Christmas & he will need a sensor bar that will be placed in front along with the PJ screen.

He has also shown me a few videos that people have created for sensor bars they made themselves. Between them & this thread, I'm sure we can make something that will work for him.

Just so I have this straight - LOL

Take a small piece of wood like a toothpick for example and tape the wire leads from a 9 volt battery holder to each side. Then I insert this into the plug of the sensor bar with the appropriate + and - connections. Is that correct?

Thanks

Since sensor bars are so cheap, I may try ordering one or two and splicing them all together in parallel. Hook them up to a power supply and it shoudl be good to go for a super bright sensor bar.

While you could splice them all together and plug them into the Wii, it would require somebody who wouldn't mind being without a Wii if they exceed the current capacity of the circuit supplying the sensor bar power. After all, 3 sensor bars = 3x the standard current.

I have the same problem you all have, equipment in the back, screen too far to get the sensor bar up there. I was planning on splicing the wire but now I plan on wiring the bar to a wall wart.

My biggest question is what voltage. I have since lost my voltmeter and can't test this for myself.

I have read anything from 7.2v to 12.5v. That is a fairly large gap. We can configure the sensitivity of the bar, and I was wondering if the Wii puts out different voltages based on the sensitivity setting.

So for low sensitivity settings we get low voltages, and if it's required the Wii can crank up the voltage to extend the range of the sensor bar.

If that's the case what I want is the voltages for each of the settings, so that I can adjust the sensitivity based on the power source.

This makes sense based on reports that doing the sensitivity adjustments does nothing with the 'wireless' sensor bar.

Anyone want to take the 10 minutes to take these readings? I'm going to see if any of my co-workers have a voltmeter I can borrow...

I have one of those variable transformers (Radioshack, $10ish), and ran it first at 7.5v and the sensor bar got warm on the sides where the LEDs are. I bumped it down to 6v, and it worked without getting hot and worked the same distance as when plugged into the Wii.

So any combination of 4 C, D, AA, or even AAA batteries should work perfectly if you want to use batteries. I personally have a plug at the front by my screen so why mess with battery replacements.

I also just stuck 2 matchsticks with the wires into the connector, so no cutting wires involved.

Thanks for this thread!

I have one of those variable transformers (Radioshack, $10ish), and ran it first at 7.5v and the sensor bar got warm on the sides where the LEDs are. I bumped it down to 6v, and it worked without getting hot and worked the same distance as when plugged into the Wii.

So any combination of 4 C, D, AA, or even AAA batteries should work perfectly if you want to use batteries. I personally have a plug at the front by my screen so why mess with battery replacements.

I also just stuck 2 matchsticks with the wires into the connector, so no cutting wires involved.

Thanks for this thread!

I also have a plug under the screen, so that's the way I want to go. Thanks for the tip about the matches...that sounds like less work than whittling my own :)

I'll have to check to see if my bar gets warm after usage, of that indicates 'issues' :)

I mainly want to figure out why there are such differences in the voltage measured.

Great stuff - thanks - it's exactly the approach I'm going to take when my wii arrives tomorrow (I was going to go at midnight tonight, but my car had trouble this afternoon so thought better of it as there are severe weather warnings)

Take a small piece of wood like a toothpick for example and tape the wire leads from a 9 volt battery holder to each side. Then I insert this into the plug of the sensor bar with the appropriate + and - connections. Is that correct?

Can anyone confirm this procedure? Looking at the sensor bar plug, I see no 'holes' to stick toothpicks in or anything else, just an empty space. Are the small metal strips on either wall of the space what I should be looking for? Also, the positive and negative terminals are obviously not marked; are there any diagrams explaining what is what? Thanks for any insight.

the idea is to make it a tight snug fit. i literally took a piece of a contractors pencil and cut it down to about 1/8" thick (probably less) and then taped the two 9-volt connector leads to it and pushed it in tight. the ends of the wires are just barely touching two metal contacts inside the plug. it's really not that complicated you just have to get the dangle of the angle right on the wires and get a good snug fit. obviously, this is not ideal, but it does work. i'm going to radio shack this week to buy the power adapter listed in jeremy's post and am going to try and solder it so i don't have to mess with batteries. i've heard it's pretty tough to get the solder done right, but it can be done.

Let the wireless era begin!

I got my Radio Shack parts in the mail today and sat down to attempt the original hack. It took about half an hour (the wires used in the sensor bar cable are TINY) but I finally got it working, after cutting and restripping a couple times; sliding the wires cleanly into the 'butt connectors' was the trickiest part for me. I was psyched when I finally saw the LEDs light up using my digital camera!

To power down I just take one of the two 9V snap connectors off and swing it out of the way. I tested everything briefly and performance seems to be identical thus far. It's very nice to be able to store the Wii in the back with the rest of the A/V equipment now ... no wires strung out across the floor!

Kudos to kktx and the other pioneers on the board. :)

right on. congrats. i'm going to go to the shack today and get the power transformer from jeremyp's post and try and do the hardwired hack so i don't have to mess with batteries anymore.

having trouble with the match sticks. There's a tiny slit in the sensor plug, is this where you guys are stuffing the 9v wires in? I've tried that and just putting the 9v wires on the bottom of that plug and stuffing the match stick on that, but still no go. Like Joshua mentioned, how do you know which side is positive and negative?
Thanks guys.

Bought a soldering iron and a power supply tonight. Just afraid if I can't get match sticks to work, how the hell am I gonna solder to work!!!

Still didn't get the match sticks working so I cut the cable. Definately made the 9v easier to hook up using the butt connectors. Might take the pluinge tomorrow and solder, we'll see. Not sure if I wanna stay with the battery or use a power supply.

Although, using the battery, my distance was cut down. Hardlined, I set the sensor on top of the screen and worked well at 10'. Now I'm only getting about 7' on the wii menus. I'll see how the game reacts to 15' (where the couch is).

I just recieved my spare sensor bar today.

this is how I rigged it up.
it's similar if not exactly the same as the pencil method haha

what you need:

1.) chinese take out chopstick (the flat ones you have to break apart)
2.) 2 wires (I pulled mines from an old S-video cable that was already cut)
3.) a utility knife
4.) 2 test leads with aligator clips on each end
5.) one 9v battery (you could use a universal AC to DC transformer too if you wanted)

you dont need to cut or modify your existing sensor bar and the wires coming out of it

-First i seperated the chop sticks

-Then using utility knife strip/carve (you might want to start on the the fatter side of the chopstick) one of the chopsticks down until it 1) is in the shape of the sensor bar plug and 2) fits snuggly into the sensor bar plug and 3) you can strip down the top and bottom just a little to compensate for the wires that you will be pushing against

-cut down the chopstick length to your liking that way you dont have this huge thing sticking out.

-strip both ends of the 2 wires (those would be the ones I pulled from an old s-video cable)

-on one end of each wire fold the the exposed wiring until you have something like a little ball (this just helps to make contact with the metal inside the sensor bar plug)

-now lay the sensor bar plug on it's side and position each wire so that they are on opposite sides of the sensor bar plug (making sure they are not touching each other)

-assuming you already tested the chopstick to see if it fits snuggly push the chopstick into the plug

-if you have the tool, then check continuity between the two wires they should not be touching each other if they are pull the chopstick out and do it over again otherwise you'll short something out

-if everything checks out use the your test leads and hook up each wire to the correct terminal on the 9v battery

the polarity of the sensor bar plug is exactly the same as the wii's power plug (look under you power supply there's a diagram of he polarity)

if you're lazy here's an ascii version:
______
|*****\ <connect this terminal to negative (-)
|******\
|*******|
|*******|
|*******|
|________| <connect this terminal to positive (+)

ignore the astericks they are just there to fill in empty space


i reversed it when i was testing it out and i didnt see any ill effects but then again i disconnected it immediately when it wasnt working.

I used a digital camera to see if the LEDs were on.


a cooler mod would be to use a universal plug instead of test leads so you can hook up battery source or AC to DC power source. I gotta check out radioshack for that.

hope this was helpful.
now if someone could figure out the correct voltage and amperage that the Wii is spitting out in the back.... :mad:

laters :D

For those wanting a photo of the pencil mod - here's mine... Huge thanks to those who pioneered the sensor bar mods :)
Hopefully it will make it clearer - btw I used a wooden chopstick :)
I also used the cheapest multi-voltave transformer going - 3.99pounds from Maplins. So far so good.
Now I just need component cables!!!
http://s110017387.websitehome.co.uk/Wii_sensor_bar_hack.jpg

All you need are some X-mas lights,small box and some dark tint.Put it all togather.Now you can just plug it in any were you want.

Here's my hack

now if someone could figure out the correct voltage and amperage that the Wii is spitting out in the back.... :mad:

laters :D

I tested it several times and I get the same voltage every time, it stays between 12v and 12.5v. I haven't had any problems with a 9v power adapter.
The sensor bar does get warm, but no warmer then it did when hooked up to the Wii. :)

I tested it several times and I get the same voltage every time, it stays between 12v and 12.5v. I haven't had any problems with a 9v power adapter.
The sensor bar does get warm, but no warmer then it did when hooked up to the Wii. :)

Are you testing it under a load though?

All I know is that even 7.5v makes the sensor bar hot, and LEDs are not meant to get hot. At 6v the bar does not get hot and I am able to point at the same distance, which in my living room with projector is about 15 feet away.

Why overwork them if no benefit?

I agree with 6v - although my transformer is unregulated, so that could be a reason for the heat at higher voltages. Mine definitely gets hot at 7.5v

I too can see no difference in performance as I raise the voltages.

Didn't take long...

http://www.wirelesssensorbar.com/

I'll note that my sensor bar didn't get appreciably hot the one day I forgot to unhook the battery (and it was connected for ~14 hours). I think this whole debate will be academic shortly. Who knows how reliable this first wireless sensor bar is (I'm more comfortable with my hacked OEM sensor bar) but there is no doubt that reputable accessory companies will soon follow!

Good fun in the meantime, however.

That was so easy that even I, a complete ignoramus/clutz, can do it in 30 minutes. Thanks!!

I did something slightly different: While at Radio Shack buying the "9V Battery Snap Connectors" and switch, the knowledgable guy in the back pointed out the "Igor Switch" (a dual sided/dual bladed Knife switch). It cost the same as the toggle switch, but seemed to have a bit more panache for the noobie like me. ($5 total, excluding tax.)

Not having chopsticks handy, I pulled the eraser out of one of my daughter's pencils and painstakingly formed it with a utility knife. Also, instead of stripping a S-Video cable, I was able to pull out the wires from one of the spare 9V battery snap connectors (you have to buy 5, and only need 1).

I get about 18 feet from the 9V battery. Works great!

My Wii should be here today, and I would like to rig it up in my theater room, which will require a wireless sensor bar. I have gone through this thread, and would like to make sure I have this straight...

If I get th 9v battery snap connectors, and then fashion a pencil (or something) to stick into the sensor bar connector, with the leads from the battey connector contacting the sides of the snesor bar plug, I should be good to go, correct? we will be 10-12' back from the bar when playing, will the 9v battery solution work for this distance?

I like this solution, as it doesn't involve cutting up the sensor bar, and it's cheap and easy. I figure I'll buy a wireless sensor bar once they are available from a reputable company, but this might work in the meantime.

Do I have this right? Will it work for what I need?

Thanks all,
Andy

yep - just connect the battery the right way around (Negative to the chamfered end of the connector).
Enjoy!

That was so easy that even I, a complete ignoramus/clutz, can do it in 30 minutes. Thanks!!

I did something slightly different: While at Radio Shack buying the "9V Battery Snap Connectors" and switch, the knowledgable guy in the back pointed out the "Igor Switch" (a dual sided/dual bladed Knife switch). It cost the same as the toggle switch, but seemed to have a bit more panache for the noobie like me. ($5 total, excluding tax.)

I get about 18 feet from the 9V battery. Works great!

Thanks for the info about the cheap RS switch. I've been considering this since the beginning, but figure that I will be just as likely to forget to hit the switch as I would be to forget to disconnect the battery (which has happened to me twice).

KK

yep - just connect the battery the right way around (Negative to the chamfered end of the connector).
Enjoy!

Excellent. Thank you all for the posts, great stuff.

Andy

Thanks for the info about the cheap RS switch. I've been considering this since the beginning, but figure that I will be just as likely to forget to hit the switch as I would be to forget to disconnect the battery (which has happened to me twice).

KK


It's easier to flip the switch (even while saying "yeesss maaaster") than it is to pull those flipping battery covers off!

BTW, the switch is only $3.

=owner of not enough rechargeable batteries

Played with the Wii all day yesterday. The 9v battery was out after 10 hrs, e.g., the pointers were starting to blink. That's a lot of batteries to be used!

Played with the Wii all day yesterday. The 9v battery was out after 10 hrs, e.g., the pointers were starting to blink. That's a lot of batteries to be used!

That's why I went with the A/C plug instead. :)

I just rigged an old cell phone charger to power my sensor bar. It's a Kyocera charger with a 5.2 volt output. It has a cylindrical metal output plug with a small hole in the end. I put a very thin wire into the hole in the end and then bent it back around a tiny bit of a wooden toothpick that I placed parallel to the metal plug. Then I just plugged the whole thing into the plug on the sensor bar so that the metal part of the charger touches against the narrower end of the slot and the wire (separated form the metal by the toothpick fragment) touches the opposite end. If you point a camcorder at the sensor bar while you're experimenting you can tell when things are working. The camcorder can see IR. I can take a picture of the thing if anyone wants, though I'm not sure I'd know how to post it.

In my quest to find some detailed instructions, I came across the following:

http://one.revver.com/watch/116383

I needed to download the .mov file in order to view it, but it is the most step-by-step guide that I've seen so far. I'll be trying it out tomorrow morning & let you know whether I'm successful or not.

That's why I went with the A/C plug instead. :)

Yeah I'll have to go the same route; luckily I have an outlet near the PJ screen where the sensor is.

Success! :) The wireless sensor bar works perfectly! :cool:

The guide (see my post above) was able to step me thru everything. Once I bought IR LEDs, I was all set. My son and I used some of the leftover black cloth that I used for edging on my DIY screen to wrap around the block of wood that we mounted all of the sensor bar parts to. I cut out two little holes to let the IR sensors poke through, but everything else is under the draped black cloth. Good stuff!

I just rigged an old cell phone charger to power my sensor bar. It's a Kyocera charger with a 5.2 volt output. It has a cylindrical metal output plug with a small hole in the end. I put a very thin wire into the hole in the end and then bent it back around a tiny bit of a wooden toothpick that I placed parallel to the metal plug...

Thanks so much for all these tips, especially this cell-charger one. I'm a complete moron at this stuff, but figured this out and got it working within 30 minutes. I'm using an old 9v wall charger to power the matchstick-plug into the sensor bar. I had to snip off the wall charger's connector end (too big) and separate and strip the wires. Hardest part was figuring out which wire was +/-.

Thanks again. We had been using candles as IR sources (2 candles works just as well as the sensor bar), but that's not a good long-term solution. But if your bar burns up or you mess it up trying hacks, candles work perfectly in the short term until a new sensor bar arrives.

I replaced my 9v battery with a 9v adapter from RShack, and the bar did get HOT! I measured the voltage and found it to be 11.5, so I exchanged it with a 6v one with much cooler results.

To update, I nixed the 9v adapter and replaced it by splicing a long run of cheap speaker wire in the middle of my already-cut-in-two sensor bar cable. I was just not getting good enough battery life from my rechargeable 9v batteries. Still, those crimpable 'butt' connectors came in handy for my extension job as well. Works great & no more batteries!

I was going to try the 9V hack this morning, but I couldn't get it to work since I haven't gone to the chinese buffet to get some chop sticks. :)

Anyhow, I tried to use the LED puck lights that you get for lighting under cabinets, etc. I bought them from Costco. 3 for 16 bucks or so. Anyhow, they worked great. No, they're not IR, but I guess these still put out in the IR spectrum. :D

Maybe I can get some IR LED's and retrofit these pucks. But at least I now have an easy hack to move the Wii and everything else back into the closet.

I was going to try the 9V hack this morning, but I couldn't get it to work since I haven't gone to the chinese buffet to get some chop sticks. :)

Anyhow, I tried to use the LED puck lights that you get for lighting under cabinets, etc. I bought them from Costco. 3 for 16 bucks or so. Anyhow, they worked great. No, they're not IR, but I guess these still put out in the IR spectrum. :D

Maybe I can get some IR LED's and retrofit these pucks. But at least I now have an easy hack to move the Wii and everything else back into the closet.

Interesting. A few questions came to mind:

1. Did you use one, or more than one?
2. Are they annoying to look at? Assuming that you haven't converted them to IR LEDs, of course.

I ordered the NYKO wireless sensor bar from Amazon, but they've now delayed shipping until March. I'm guessing they're still working out the design. Still using the 9V batteries, though I am going through them much faster than I'd like.

I keep meaning to make another trip to R Shack and get a 4x1.5 V AA holder and do it with rechargeables, but I keep procrastinating hoping for an accessory I can simply go out and buy.

KK

Interesting. A few questions came to mind:

1. Did you use one, or more than one?
2. Are they annoying to look at? Assuming that you haven't converted them to IR LEDs, of course.

I ordered the NYKO wireless sensor bar from Amazon, but they've now delayed shipping until March. I'm guessing they're still working out the design. Still using the 9V batteries, though I am going through them much faster than I'd like.

I keep meaning to make another trip to R Shack and get a 4x1.5 V AA holder and do it with rechargeables, but I keep procrastinating hoping for an accessory I can simply go out and buy.

KK

If you've already got the 9V battery in place and a plug nearby, you should be able to buy an AC/DC adaptor and plug it right in. The one I bought had all sorts of options for the plug, including a 9V battery cap--which plugged right in to replace my 9V battery.

Here's what I bought at a local store:
http://www.farnsworthelectronics.com/part%20images/power%2020.gif

I hooked my sensor bar up to an AC adapter but after about 2 weeks, the one side of the sensors has quit working. The side that still works gets hot on the bottom of the sensor bar when plugged in. Everyone seems to be saying 9V is the correct setting, but I'm wondering if that is what it really should be or if the sensor bar can handle being powered on directly to an AC outlet for an extended time.

I'm running mine at 4.5V. I think 9V is way too much unless you're going to be 30ft back. IIRC, 3V gives me 12ft distance, then it's 3ft for every 1.5V there after (or something like that--it's been a while since I tested it).

Use a regulated DC supply for the sensor bar. Some of those unregulated wall-warts have terrible ripple voltage and transient spikes when turned on. This can kill the LED's.

Planning on making my own Wii IR LED sensors to use on top of of my projector screen. Any advice? We figured we could use 2 IR LEDs in both "sensor" powered by 2 AA batteries. Also will be able to switch on and off. Is this enough (LED wise and power wise? I'll be standing about 12 feet away in my HT room. Everything will bought at Radio Shack. Any info would be appreciated. Figure the project will only cost about $20 total.

That way I can have 2 portable IR LED arrays to put any distance I want apart on top of any size screen I intend to use. Thanks in advance.

well guys...i think this stuff is cool and all...however, as far as i can tell...no one has described how the wii recieves the sensor bar data...(i am probably wrong though) although you have stated that it works, i can't be sure!

well guys...i think this stuff is cool and all...however, as far as i can tell...no one has described how the wii recieves the sensor bar data...(i am probably wrong though) although you have stated that it works, i can't be sure!
AKAIK, the Wii doesn't receive anything from the sensor bar, the remote uses the leds to calibrate itself. The cord from Wii to bar is simply for power to leds, which is thus replaced by batteries. Check out youtube videos of using candles for the wii; it works the same.

So after being in the same boat as everyone else with a projector, I stumbled on this forum.

At first I wanted an extension, but didn't want a wire running down the floor from the dresser next to the couch with the projector to the wall where the image is projected.

My setup is quite restrictive since I live in a bachelor with my GF and conservation of space and esthetics are everything in such a cramped space.

Anyhow, I stopped by The Source (Cdn Radioshack) and picked up a soldering kit, some wire, electrical tape, and an 800mA Universal Adapter.

I couldn't get a connection going for the life of me when I tried the chop-stick/wooden peg method. I saw the connections inside that connector, but the wires were fairly rigid, and I couldn't get them to stick.
I tried soldering them to the connection thinking I'll unsoder if anything, but realized I'm melting the plastic.

After much frustration, I decided to cut the wire - all while my GF is playing with 2 candles. I probably spent a good hour trying to connect the cut wire of the sensor bar to the wires I connected to the AC adapter... but I would get no current going through them!
Only after looking closely at the 2 red/orange wires, I realized that they have an insulating film around them. I quickly rubbed the wire on the solder gun to remove the film and VIOLA! The digicam showed signs of life!

I'm not quite sure of the increments on the adapter, but it ranges from 3-12V
I get dim lights at 3V, but the Wiimote can't read them. I start getting a readable signal at 5, and up all the way to 9V.
Problem is, that the wall is about 15 ft away from me, and at 5V the cursor jitters. In fact, it's jittery no matter how high the voltage is. At 9V its jittery the least, but the bar gets EXTREMELY hot.

On a side note:

While fiddling around with the wires, I got frustrated and thought I'm gonna replace them with the one I bought. I was quite surprised when I saw that Nintendo used their own screws to close the bar. Anyone knows what can open them?

Also, I found some old remotes around the house and removed the IR lamp from them. They're quite weak, and one looses signal at over 6-7 ft.

I'm starting to think that the jittering is not due to the strength/weakness of the lamps, but the distance between them. As you get further away from the bar, the 2 IR dots become closer, making it harder to triangulate accuretaly, perhaps a custom bar for that kind of distance would be more appropriate... Any thoughts?

Anyway, great forum guys, glad I stumbled on it. Lots of pioneers and experimentalists here :)

PS.

I think if you separate the distance on the IR lamps but maybe another 2-3 inches, you will get more ranger on them + lower sensitivity.

I think the pencil erasor might work better than the chopstick for keeping the wires snug against the contacts (squeeze them through the opening just a little). You'll have to have a little patience shaping the eraser, but probably less than the "tear it apart" route...

the plug looks like a USB Type B plug.

allproducts.c_m/communication/kinsun/14usb-b-l.jpg

(replace the c_m with com)

has anyone tried to connect it to that, instead of cutting the wires?