MYLAR - Paint Mixes CAN be Rolled for a Brighter, Less Expensive DIY Screen

[1Time]

A while back I rolled a paint mix onto 2mil mylar and was fairly impressed when I found the projected image was brighter than those I was getting with my other test panels. For my test panel all I did was duct tape 2mil mylar to a board and roll one coat of a paint mix.

I attribute its brightness to how simple it was to roll a single, thin and even coat onto the mylar, the high reflectiveness of the mylar, and the transluscency of the paint mix. Of course the idea of using mylar was nothing more than a proposed variation on MMan's or CMRA's idea of painting a mirror. However, to date I don't recall anyone claiming success with their use of mylar due to how impossible it has been reported to satisfactorily affix it completely flat to a substrate.

However, it now seems to me all it would take to get the mylar to lay smooth and flat and thereby allow for a top rate image is to duct tape its edges, roll the paint, let it dry and cure, cut the mylar near the edges (inside the duct tape) so to allow it to hang, then stretch it out smooth and flat and duct tape it down again. There's really no reason to affix it throughout it's entire back surface to a substrate, which I still consider to be practically impossible.

I don't exactly recall the mix I used with the mylar when I did my test panel, but I do still have the test panel. My guess is it was something like 1 part each of white paint, a clear poly, deep base, a silver metallic and a pearl. I have to think any one of the current mixes could be rolled successfully onto mylar for a brighter picture, so long as the mix is transluscent enough.

Just thought I'd throw that out there in case someone's wanting a brighter DIY screen up to 54" tall that's cheaper and far easier than painting a mirror. A 54" tall roll of 2' mil mylar goes for $20 to $25.

[prof55]

Are you using Rosco mylar, or something else?

[1Time]

I don't recall the brand name. I bought it at a local hydroponics store. Only about the first 10' or so was usable; the remainder had roll marks on it from being rolled tightly on a cardboard spindle.

[nate358]

um sweet! how did this go un-noticed by so many?!

[1Time]

um sweet! how did this go un-noticed by so many?!

When the idea of painting mylar first surfaced, it was assumed it must be affixed completely flat to a substrate for it to be worthy. When no one reported being able to do this, the use of mylar was all but fogotten.

The paint weighs the mylar down and makes it thicker and much easier to stretch out and keep flat to a substrate. Protecting the thin coat of paint with a clear, matte poly may be advisable and may improve the image (see my official poly thread).

My test panel has a tiny hole in the paint where I can see the mylar. I must have bumped something into it. A toothpick with a touch of paint would fix it. I watched part of a movie the other night with this test panel and compared it to a 1.0 gain white screen. I did not even notice the hole. I estimated the gain of this gray mix / mylar test panel to be 1.0, same as the white screen.

Although I have no experience with painting any other reflective substrate like a mirror, if wanting a slightly brighter DIY screen, I would not hesitate using 2 mil mylar with a transluscent enough mix.

[bluesboyjr]

I posted this over in the Silver Fire thread, but it is just as useful over here. It is my method for stretching mylar over a frame.

The method that I used for the mylar is as follows:
1) Build frame (my first screen had a wood frame and the second had an aluminum).
2) Buy the 3m heavy duty double stick mounting tape and run it along the back edge of the frame.
3) Use a torpedo heater to heat your garage to about 90-95 degrees. The reason for this is to let the mylar expand to as much as possible before stretching over the frame.
4) Lay the mylar out on a soft blanket.
5) Place the frame tape side up over the mylar.
6) Next, peel off the protective coating from the 3m tape, and lightly stick the mylar to the tape all the way around the frame. There will be many wrinkles, but don't worry b/c you will remove them in the next step.
7) Pick the screen up and lay it on one off the long edges. Begin on the center/top and grab the mylar off the tape (it should come off fairly easy at this point) and start stretching lightly and re-sticking it to the tape as you move all the way around the screen. You will have to go through this process a few times until all the wrinkles are gone. Be careful around the corners, as they may tear the mylar, if this happens, take a peice of heavy duty packing tape and stick half to the torn mylar and half to the 3m tape (this will work only if the tear occured in an area that will be covered by the screen border, so far, these are the only areas that I have had tears). The tape reinforces the mylar and allows you to continue stretching.
8) If you find that there are some minor wrinkles near the corners, these should go away when you bring the screen indoors to normal temperatures, since the mylar will shrink.
9) You are now ready to apply the paint. I recommend spraying, but I have not tried to roll on the mylar so I can't comment.
10) One thing to note... When stretching the mylar in these high temperatures, try not to drop any sweat on the screen. The salt will cause a reaction and will look similar to snow cystals on the final screen.

Good Luck.

[MississippiMan]

This is all very interesting, and potentially valuable for anyone wanting a highly reflective 1st surface as a base of a Translucent mix.

After some strenuous debate, and a bit of outright dismissal by some, it was first the general recognition that a Mirror could be/was indeed a valid substrate, that the progression came naturally that DIY'ers would look to the best possible reflective surface. Mylar does indeed have a higher reflectivity percentage than any other material. Mylar was also found to be far less expensive than any equally sized 1st surface or 2nd Surface Mirror so at first, it was the combination of both those attributes that outweighed the"application & usage" difficulties, and led to several to attempt such screens.

But more than a few people had less than stellar results working with the crinkly stuff, and that once again less to the almost outright dismissal of the material as suitable to use, and the threads concerning Mylar applications sank down into oblivion of the Archives.

That it can be rolled still remains problematical for some, but certainly a do-able thing according to 1Time's experience. Myself, I can see where it would require a thin mix applied with a Low Nap Roller, and a exceedingly light, even pressure. Spraying should however be considered the best route IMO.

As for the application producing only 1.0 gain results.....that actually makes sense because being first surface, Mylar actually requires a bit more coverage than a 2nd surface Acrylic Mirror would, in order to effectively tame the extra degree of reflectivity. With the reflective surface laying so close to the painted surface, any benefits that the "Contrast via Black" aspect that a Silver lends the application would be more relevant IMO than the addition of Gain. But lend some Gain it obviously does for otherwise a Gray application would come in wit a Gain factor of less than 1.0 ( .85 seems the standard for most....)

A 2nd Surface application instead uses a thinner paint coating, and depends on any such CR boost via the attenuation of light through it's having a lessor reflective index. Earlier 2nd Surface Light Fusions with white MMud coatings offered many qualities not found previously, but lacked any significant "actual" Cr boosting. But the overall imagery was exceedingly bright and crisp, and the difference between "Dark & Light" stood out with enough separation that Contrast appeared to be improved.

The step up (...or down perhaps...) to a Grayer based Top Coat via the addition of a small amount of Silver Metallic both enhanced surface CR and led to further attenuation via reflection, which in turn DID work to significantly increase perceived CR overall. The "Fusion" effect helped to keep/restore enough brilliance to whites and colors by negating the damping that a darker Top Coating served up. That then was the difference between HCCV Mfg Screens, and basic Gray DIY paint schemes, and the results offered up by the "Fusion" approach.

I'm not so sure that what with today's advanced DIY Paints, and the need for a rather complicated and exacting method to mount (....and/or stretch....) the Mylar, as well as the added expenditure in time and funds to construct such doesn't serve to lend weight to the use of a Mirror for some, what with that application being easier to deal with. And if you can roll Mylar, then you can roll a Mirror as well.

But for those with no or limited access to a Mirror, those wanting something larger than access into a room allows, or those who just want something totally different, the issuance of approval for the Mylar Alternative helps give those looking for something "extra" a choice they might not otherwise have to consider.

This thread, authored as such by someone not to quick to accept out of hand the results by others, serves to lend creedence to an application that has lingered too long on the sidelines. As in so much that is DIY, oft times it just takes enough people actually making the effort to attempt a more involved DIY application to lend it the desirability that it always possessed; that being though postive feedback and not negative reports of course.

Thanks are due from everyone to 1Time for showing that there is both a way, and a desirable end result.

[bluesboyjr]

The biggest advantage the mylar has over a mirror, IMO, is the weight difference. I needed something portable and lightweight that can be taken down and moved when not in use (it is being used in the garage). My 96" diagonal screen including the frame weighs in at less than 3 lbs.

[MississippiMan]

The biggest advantage the mylar has over a mirror, IMO, is the weight difference. My 96" diagonal screen including the frame weighs in at less than 3 lbs.

It must be susceptible to air pressure changes when doors are opened/shut, or from any breeze I'd think. You must secure it down, I'm sure, but even so, with that large of expanse of ultra thin and lightweight material, I'm sure you get some simmy/shake at times if there is a disturbance in the air.

Not a critical assessment all this, just what seems to be blowin' through my mind.

[bluesboyjr]

It must be susceptible to air pressure changes when doors are opened/shut, or from any breeze I'd think. You must secure it down, I'm sure, but even so, with that large of expanse of ultra thin and lightweight material, I'm sure you get some simmy/shake at times if there is a disturbance in the air.

Not a critical assessment all this, just what seems to be blowin' through my mind.

You are probably right about the movement with air disturbance. I was the only one in the garage the other night when I tested it, so I never had any doors opened or closed. The superlight aluminum frame that I used (5/16" aluminum window frame) has a little bit of torque twist to it after the mylar was stretched, but I don't notice it at all during viewing. I should have a better review after watching Sunday's game on it (it may be less than favorable if the Bears lose, though).

BTW, I hope you enjoy the Wagner as much as I do. The conveniece of it will really benefit many DIY'ers.