I've noticed that the internals of the Marquee focus yoke is sometimes different. Like my current 9ultra has the original red tube assembly and two new OEM tube assemblies.

The original red has a nice, small spot size. While the new OEM blue & green have a much larger spot size (yes, I've somewhat adjusted magnetics). In attempting to diagnose this, I've noticed that the focus yoke on the original red tube has it's internal windings protude further back than the internal windings of the OEM replacement blue and green.

The original red has a nice, small spot size. While the new OEM blue & green have a much larger spot size (yes, I've somewhat adjusted magnetics). In attempting to diagnose this, I've noticed that the focus yoke on the original red tube has it's internal windings protude further back than the internal windings of the OEM replacement blue and green.
I've never noticed this, but a bigger winding will produce a stronger field and "squeeze" the beam down more. I think that's exactly what the sony coils that CJ uses. I didn't know there were different OEM F-coils? When you say OEM replacement do you mean like "new" from VDC or NOS stuff off a dusty shelf?

IThe original red has a nice, small spot size. While the new OEM blue & green have a much larger spot size

The next time you see a bare OEM (VDC) tube, check out the amount of silicone that they put on the high voltage cup. Your original tube should have a smaller amount.

When I replace any tube in a Marquee, I always shave down that glue/silicone. If not, the focus coil may not move forward enough to get the best spot size. It is very important to be able to get the focus coils as forward as possible to the front of the tube, if not, you'll not going to get the best focus.


Pull the tube out and shave off the excess silicone, and in doing so you may shave off some of the cap as well. And that would be fine, because you'll get that focus coil right where it needs to be for the best focus. And after doing this, it may even do better than the original. But for sure it should improve the focus if done right.

And don't worry about it arching because you've remove a bit of the silicone and cap. There's plenty of silicone under that cap.

There is nobody out there who knows more about how to maximize the performance out of a Marquee than MP. If only there were 10 of him to travel the US and the world to work his magic on everyone's Marquee.

Dragan, it's one of the tubes from that big auction awhile back. Came complete with all the magnetics & plastic covers etc.

I've gotta digest what MP just said above. Though I did move the scan yokes as far forward as possible, then left just a couple of militeres of movement for the focus yoke adjusting. I didn't really go all out on it to see if it could be moved further.
Heading out the door now and will tackle this later. :)

The attached pic shows the difference between the red windings and green windings. It's a pretty clear difference!

hmmm, there is a BIG difference that's for sure. If those are the old 9" OEM tubes from Nevada then they could have older 9000 series coils on them. I know some/all of the coils were re-designed when the 8500 came out in 95. i'll have to look through my parts-bin and see what I can see? :)

Wow, I had no idea there was a difference between the 9000 and 9500 tube assemblies!
These were in fact the Salt Lake City tubes, and came with instructions for installation into a 9000. hmmm is right!

And to think that I sold off all my used 9500 tube assemblies. In fact, some of them were practically given away. :(

Yeah... I missed all that or I would have bought a bunch of em to have as spares.

Verified... there is definately a difference! I pulled the newer focus coil from my
red tube and swapped it over to the underperforming green tube and right away
my spot size got smaller!!!!

Prior to doing this, I took apart the two focus coils to see if there really was a
physical difference and there was. You can see the guage of wire is different.
Also, I measured and saw that the newer coil has more height to the winding.

[older coil on left, newer coil on right]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/Difference.jpg

I was also curious as to how the focus coil is really supposed to be adjusted. This
always kind of confused me as everyone describes the procedure a bit
differently. The outer lid is basically 100% plastic. It merely serves the purpose
of holding the focus coil stationairy to the tube neck. And you can see the
difference in size between the wingnut bolt holes on the lid vs the body of the
focus coil.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/Lid.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/Hole_Difference.jpg

Here is a better view of how the body of the focus coil is adjusted, while the outer
lid simply clamps onto the tube and is stationairy.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/Roundy.jpg

Here is the difference between the older (first pic) and newer label:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/Older_Label.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/Newer_Label.jpg


And afterwards I noticed this in the Marquee Training manual where it discusses
the basic changes from 8000/9000 to 8500/9500 models:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/czeddie/Electrohome%20Marquee/New_Focus_Coil.jpg




So if anyone has a couple of the newer Focus Coils (yokes) for sale, I would
definately appreciate first shot at them. :D

at first I thought the difference was that the the older coild didn't have the Zone Stig winding but it looks like they both do. So it's just a different design and obviously delivers a stronger EM field to choke the beam down to a smaller size. Very interesting, this info should be archived on Curts web-site. It's in fact very usefull for someone wanting to upgrade an older machine. I've always told people it's easier to just get a newer chassis than trying to find all the parts and these yokes even add to that long list of little pieces you would need.

Speaking of changes not commonly known: the splitter too has also been slightly changed so it should not be interchanged at random between the different models of marquees. It will work but beware. This is also a note found from a training ,anual.

igroucho - what has changed with the splitter and what differences would this make? I've tried using the splitter from my 8500 to trouble shoot before. Then got confused as to which splitter belonged where.

The splitter was changed along w the HVPS when the 8500 and upwards were introduced. This is what I picked up from a TM:
"A new low impedance splitter plus low impedance HVPS reduce the horizontal streaking significantly."

There may have been a splitter upgrade (I havn't read through all my data on these) from the 8000 series to the 8500/9500's along with the HVPS upgrade, but for any 8500 or 9500 the spitters should all be the same. I'll check on this later to confirm.

As for better upgrades to the later version marquees (8110, 8500, 9500). The real and true changes are in the software, with the exception of what changes were done with the Ultra's.

For instance, by replacing one chip on the CLM, you'll be able to change the focus start point to a 65% increase.

With that same chip upgrade, you'll also correct on the vertical sync pulse.

Plus with the right chip upgrade, you'll get individual focus for each memory.


There's other chips that will also effect different functions and ranges in the projector, and are listed as upgrades and would be found on later model marquees.

Another, the HVPS has been upgraded 2 times since they went to the 8110, 8500, 9500's (three versions of the 34.9kv).

Well CZ, if nothing else you've taken the price of new focus yokes from $50 to $100 in one post..;)

I don't have spares sorry! I've been using all spare F coils with the astig winding to convert 8110s to 8500s.

As for better upgrades to the later version marquees (8110, 8500, 9500). The real and true changes are in the software, with the exception of what changes were done with the Ultra's.

For instance, by replacing one chip on the CLM, you'll be able to change the focus start point to a 65% increase.

With that same chip upgrade, you'll also correct on the vertical sync pulse.

Plus with the right chip upgrade, you'll get individual focus for each memory.


??? I guess I was just wasting time focusing each of my different sources individually? (MyHD at 1080i; satellite transcoded at 720p mostly but I have done others). I assume at least the convergence adjustments hold for each memory at least or am I off on that assumption as well (81110+ - some of us are slower than others - but at least now I may be able to find out why my blue focus spot is so much tighter than my red and green)

There must other significant magnetics differences as well, because the vertical height of my red 9500 CRT is much smaller than the 9000 series blue and green CRT's in the same projector. Even with convergence zero'd out and vertical height's set to 50 each.

Curt, thanks for checking though. Plus I didn't realize new focus yokes were only $50. I remembered that the deflection yoke is incredibly expensive and assumed the focus yoke would be expensive as well. :)

Mike, moving the focus yoke as far forward did help to achieve better initial focus... even though it was only about a milimeter that I was able to move it up. Thanks.


Ralph, the simple way to find out is to go into each of your recalls and set the focus (Pic, 4) to a different number and save. Then go back into each of your recalls and see if the focus number is still different in each recall. Btw, what Mike mentioned only applies to focus (Pic, 4)... it does not apply to the Service Focus. :)

Ralph, the simple way to find out is to go into each of your recalls and set the focus (Pic, 4) to a different number and save. Then go back into each of your recalls and see if the focus number is still different in each recall. Btw, what Mike mentioned only applies to focus (Pic, 4)... it does not apply to the Service Focus. :)

OK - thanks but I am still a little slow on this. I never adjust the focus number - maybe I am out to lunch again but it seems like that was set to 50% and left it that way when I did the service focus steps. - But I did do those for each memory (input /recall-setup) - I suppose they (service focus) don't hold either, or there is only one?

Ok now I am a little confused.....
I have never been real happy with my focus and have been needing to get into my projector and do a real good setup since I swaped it over from a 9000 into a 8500 chassis when I ran across this thread. I went back and looked at the focus coils on the smoked 8500 tubes thinking they would be the better ones and I would slide them onto the 9000 tubes.... well they have totaly different #'s on them and look like the older ones pictured :mad: ref 21.695.01p type 9251.51 and n/s 50 F O

anyone want to take a stab at what I got and if its worth swaping over ? I am about to get into the projector now and see what is on the tubes now but figured I would post to see what I have sitting on these dead tubes.

Thanks

I went back and looked at the focus coils on the smoked 8500 tubes thinking they would be the better ones and I would slide them onto the 9000 tubes.... well they have totaly different #'s on them and look like the older ones pictured :mad: ref 21.695.01p type 9251.51 and n/s 50 F O

anyone want to take a stab at what I got and if its worth swaping over ? I am about to get into the projector now and see what is on the tubes now but figured I would post to see what I have sitting on these dead tubes.

Thanks

Not sure if this would be of much help, but the coil in the picture is from a new tube assembly that was purchased from VDC not long ago (sometime last year).

http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/931/img1444oj2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Mike, your middle number seems as it would be compared with my third number.

N/S on oldest is___194 E 9
N/S on mine is____125 H 9
S/N on yours is__00236 K 5

The pattern seems to be the 2nd to last character. "E" being the known oldest, "H" being from year 2001 (my Ultra) and "K" from your current date VDC. Can anyone confirm this theory?

I wonder if there is any significant difference between my year 2001 focus coil and Mike's current year focus coil.

Mike, your middle number seems as it would be compared with my third number.

N/S on oldest is___194 E 9
N/S on mine is____125 H 9
S/N on yours is__00236 K 5

The pattern seems to be the 2nd to last character. "E" being the known oldest, "H" being from year 2001 (my Ultra) and "K" from your current date VDC. Can anyone confirm this theory?

I wonder if there is any significant difference between my year 2001 focus coil and Mike's current year focus coil.

I'm confused about all this with these coils, and as I had indicated earlier, I knew nothing about a difference in the coils, and there's nothing in the documentation that i have that says that there is a difference in them.

In fact, on this past Tuesday while JBJR was down, I called a former Electrohome engineer and while I had him on the phone I asked about these coils. And from that conversation and what I was repeating back to him that JB could also hear, was that the only changes that he knew of was the change from the very early 8000/9000 to the 8500/9500 coils. He said as I had mention from my literature, that the main focus improvement in the later Marquees was in the software. That was any software (U35) version starting at version 4, which has several different versions of versions 4 (a, b, c, etc), to include version 4.4 Not sure what VDC now offers.

However, version 4 only work on the CLM in the Ultra's.

The only difference in newer focus magnets is the static gauss is very slightly different between the ones used on 8" tubes and 9" tubes. The mag is closer to the phosphor on 8" CRTs so needs to be a little stronger. Physically they are the same.

That N/S XXX is the serial number. Made in France so Number/Serial.

Scott

TSE, thank you for the info. It doesn't sound like there is any difference between the later model focus coils. Nothing to effect video quality or spot size anyway.

Btw, I swapped old vs. new style convergence coils today (red to green) and there was no appreciable difference. As far as I can tell, if anyone has an older 9000 style complete CRT tube... the only thing to change over to newer would be the focus coil. Nothing else probably matters. :)

Hello,

i have Focus Coils from a 8" 21.695.01P
and from a 9" 21.696.01P.

Yoke Deflection Coils from a 8" 21.691-01P
and from a 9" 21694-01P.

In the part-list are different numbers for the coils declared.
What's the difference?

Do 8" coils also work in an 9" CRT?

Tom

Hello,

i have Focus Coils from a 8" 21.695.01P
and from a 9" 21.696.01P.

Yoke Deflection Coils from a 8" 21.691-01P
and from a 9" 21694-01P.

In the part-list are different numbers for the coils declared.
What's the difference?

Do 8" coils also work in an 9" CRT?

Tom


I know that the yokes on the 8" and 9" units have different part numbers, however, I have tested them in the past and could see NO visible difference and they work fine.

As for the focus coils, the VDC parts list from a couple of years ago list the SAME part number (21-696-01P) for both 8" and 9" focus coils.

As for Crazy Eddie's different "ns" numbers, I have fairly new coils on some 9" oem tubes that say: ns: 46 FD, 82 D9 and 83 D9. So what does that mean???

As for Crazy Eddie's different "ns" numbers, I have fairly new coils on some 9" oem tubes that say: ns: 46 FD, 82 D9 and 83 D9. So what does that mean???

Best I can tell, the two D9's are fairly old while the FD is "I don't know". But I suspect it's newer than the D9's.

I think the [alphabetical] + [numerical] is an indicator of how old the model is. Like A1 would be older than A9. And Z9 would be the newest.

The D9's are 8000 or 9000 style focus coils if the schema mentioned above is to be believed. I would suggest you compare them with the FD or higher # to see how much tighter the dots get.

Best I can tell, the two D9's are fairly old while the FD is "I don't know". But I suspect it's newer than the D9's.

I think the [alphabetical] + [numerical] is an indicator of how old the model is. Like A1 would be older than A9. And Z9 would be the newest.

The D9's are 8000 or 9000 style focus coils if the schema mentioned above is to be believed. I would suggest you compare them with the FD or higher # to see how much tighter the dots get.

I don't know much about it, but, I know that they are "relatively" late 9500 coils and NOT 8000/9000 coils, since they don't have the stig winding like 8500/9500 do.

I don't know much about it, but, I know that they are "relatively" late 9500 coils and NOT 8000/9000 coils, since they don't have the stig winding like 8500/9500 do.

The coils that I started this thread over came on complete tube sets for the Marquee 9000, as per the directions in the box that it came in. There was no mention of 9500LC anywhere on the directions. And the coils did have the stig windings, though I never thought of this until you mentioned it.

So these may have been for very early 9500LC's. In either case, when I upgraded to newer focus coils, my dot size grew noticeably smaller.

This could be due to revisions, or perhaps renewed magnetic strength. I'm not sure. But I'd suspect it has to do with improved versions of the focus coils! :)

Btw, how are ya doing these days, Bruce? I don't see you on the board as much as in the last couple of years or so. Actually, seems that ever since the big FL hurricanes, you've nearly dropped out of sight!

Btw, how are ya doing these days, Bruce? I don't see you on the board as much as in the last couple of years or so. Actually, seems that ever since the big FL hurricanes, you've nearly dropped out of sight!

I know that Electrohome warned that the PM in the focus coil could become damaged from allowing the coils near other magnetic sources. So I often wonder what happens when you have a set of coils in close proximity. :confused:

It wasn't the hurricanes that were the problem, I have emphysema and besides being unable to do much anymore, I'm tired from the time I get up in the morning until I go to bed. I recently got oxygen, so I feel a little better and it's not as tiring to get on the forum.

so I feel a little better and it's not as tiring to get on the forum.

So that means you'll be around more often then?

Uh oh. :eek: :D
Well I'm glad you found something thats helping out a bit. Did it help you come to your senses and go Marquee? Or are you still stuck with Sony? ;)

So that means you'll be around more often then?

Uh oh. :eek: :D
Or are you still stuck with Sony? ;)

Oh I'm stuck on Sony cause Sony's stuck on me. :p

Oh, gheez :D

Hello,

i have Focus Coils from a 8" 21.695.01P
and from a 9" 21.696.01P.

Yoke Deflection Coils from a 8" 21.691-01P
and from a 9" 21694-01P.

In the part-list are different numbers for the coils declared.
What's the difference?

Do 8" coils also work in an 9" CRT?

Tom

On the yoke deflection coil there isn't a difference I can see.
However this week and prompted by this thread and some 9500's I am building I did some testing of the:
C/N 21.695.01P, P/N 9251.51 (which came from a 8" ultra) and
C/N 21.696.01P, P/N 9251.24 (which came off factory 9500 tube assemblies)

Test was done on a new tubed 9500LC with firmware 4.1

What I found was that after doing a reset on the projector and adjusting the focus, CPC magnets, stigamator, that when I used the 8" focus assemblies, it took almost "max" (95+) in the center position of the stigmator adjustment to get any kind of reasonable focus out of the 9" tubes. Where as with the 9500 focus coils they came into focus as soon as the unit was turned on with just small touch up's needed to get a perfect focus.

For me I could see no reason to use these 8" assy's on a 9500 and put them away.

Terry

I got a call yesterday from Terry. And one of the things we discussed was the focus problem on the Marquee.

Anyway, I spent a great part of last night playing around with the focus module on my 8500 Ultra. Since I was also testing marquee mods, playing around with the focus module was perfect for this.

I'm using CZ's boards in the Marquee for these screenshots:


Sony Blu-Ray 1080P -> HK Fury -> Marquee 8500 Ultra /modified FM
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1360/picture414zb5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/631/picture415co0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/3451/picture424er4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/119/picture427zd0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Do you think the core of the issue on the Marquee is the actual yoke itself or the (focus) driving electronics?

Do you think the core of the issue on the Marquee is the actual yoke itself or the (focus) driving electronics?

I think it's a combination of several things. But before I go into what I think, let me first say what I know about the problem with focus on the Marquees.

If you opened a box with a brand new Marquee, fire it up and play with the focus, one of the first things that would jump out at you would be very tight focus. Yep, a new Marquee had very sharp focus. And it had it even with what I believe to be a problem with the magnetics.

Maybe the magnetics could have been better, but what happened over time that cause the focus to not be as good as when new. now, is the problem in the electronics, or the magnetics? That we don't know. And though some improvement has been made with other coils, that still does not explain what happens to the fine focus it has when new. And I'm saying even with new tubes. this is also a problem that I had discussed with the former Electrohome engineer. It's there, and for the past couple of days, I've been trying to trace it down, now that i have two Ultras here that are different. One has tight focus.

So I think primarily it's the focus coil, but also think it's in the electronics as well. Not sure which one fades in time, but will find out in due time.

I'm doing something different with the focus module that I have in the ultra now. It's something i'm still working on, for sure it's made an improvement.

Now, the first thing that would need to happen is to use an external pattern when in the higher bands. There's a weak link in the analog internal grid circuit that prevents it from producing the clearest lines and patterns. That circuit is fine for up to 960P. beyond that you will not get very tight lines.

I'll keep you posted on this..

Mike, the simple test would be to swap magnetics from the tight focusing set over to the other machine. And take the focus board from that machine and put it into the tight focusing machine. :D

The pics from Thursday were really incredible but different screenshots than these.


Terry, good deal on tracking down that you lose possible focus range with 8" coils for a 9" machine.

Same part numbers, same parts, but a slightly difference in focus.

Thursday screenshots were taking a night with no light getting into the room.

The only thing I'm trying to show with these is sharpness.

Well, I think that due to the change in room brightness it will be difficult to see these as sharper. That and the different points in the movies where we were getting to see more depth in the image. The Thursday pictures just kick butt all over these. Even though these are pretty awesome! :D

Well, I think that due to the change in room brightness it will be difficult to see these as sharper. That and the different points in the movies where we were getting to see more depth in the image. The Thursday pictures just kick butt all over these. Even though these are pretty awesome! :D

Yeah, Thursdays was special. I can only get that to happen with the right lighting.

I'll have your boards to you in a few days, so you'll not only get the same results, you'll do much better with the LC tubes. And if you've seen depth and 3D from movies for before, brace yourself..;)

I'll post a few more later with your 03 before sending it out tomorrow. I've made one last performance change to this version mods, and you should be able to see the difference in the screenshots that'll be coming up later...

Can you guess what I'm doing here? I'll be explainig it later over on Curt's forum:

This is your 03 VIM
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8963/picture432fa8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

There is a big freakin fudge brownie stuck to my VIM! Can't you eat over a plate! :)

Mike, you upgrade too quickly... how am I supposed to keep up with the latest?! :p

On the yoke deflection coil there isn't a difference I can see.
However this week and prompted by this thread and some 9500's I am building I did some testing of the:
C/N 21.695.01P, P/N 9251.51 (which came from a 8" ultra) and
C/N 21.696.01P, P/N 9251.24 (which came off factory 9500 tube assemblies)

Test was done on a new tubed 9500LC with firmware 4.1

o get any kind of reasonable focus out of the 9" tubes. Where as with the 9500 focus coils they came into focus as soon as the unit was turned on with just small touch up's needed to get a perfect focus.

For me I could see no reason to use these 8" assy's on a 9500 and put them away.

Terry

There is something about this that I'm not understanding.

"What I found was that after doing a reset on the projector and adjusting the focus, CPC magnets, stigamator, that when I used the 8" focus assemblies, it took almost "max" (95+) in the center position of the stigmator adjustment"

With all the manual adjustments made, the center should be as perfect as possible with the center stig adjustment at 50/50. Do you mean the static focus had to be at 95+, not the stig adjustment?

The focus mag for 8" is the same as for 9" other than a slightly higher magnetic strength. The static focus will need to be higher with 8" mag on 9" tube because of this.

Scott

Mike, you upgrade too quickly... how am I supposed to keep up with the latest?! :p


I had this in my notes to look at one day, because of the radical ripple and other noise present on the +/- 14.5 volt rails. Even with the and inductor upgrade, the noise was still there. It was not effecting the image (so I thought), so I left it alone, and moved on to wrapping things up. It wasn't until one night after I got the test 8500 Ultra in the shop, that I put the scope probe on those rails, and wondered what or if they could or were possibly effecting the image. After following the rails on the VIM, I got stuck at the clamp IC's that's supplied by the +/- 14.5 volts. And if you notice on your "specials". I have extra caps up near the front end amps on the same rails to lower the noise. But that's still not enought, because once it gets into the front end through the clamps, it muddies the low end of the signal somewhat. Not a problem on the 02's, but it's somewhat of a different story with the 03 Specials.

Anyway, it's viable tweak worth the cost of the part, and some realy special for those wanted that extra cleanest at the lower end.

If you're interested in this one, let me know. We can do a quick turn-around. just pay the shipping.


Eddie, it's a mini switch mode power supply, that operates off of the 5 volt rail, and substitutes the +/- 14.5 rails from the projector.

That is one high tech brownie! How off the charts focused on the Marquee were you to come up with something that deep!

If you're interested in this one, let me know. We can do a quick turn-around. just pay the shipping
Mike, I have a few meets coming up first. I'll probably ship back to you in September. I'll let you know.

That is one high tech brownie! How off the charts focused on the Marquee were you to come up with something that deep!

I have a list of things that I've written down over the years on the Marquee. and in doing mods, you spend countless hours trying various things to improve on the image. At times, you do get to make changes, and there are also times when you don't accomplish anything. And not being an engineer, a lot of stuff is just over my head. So being persistent, I don't give up too easily. And since I think I've either reached my apex or am close, I wanted do those finals things on the list.

As I said on the other forum. I'll be pretty much turning the mods over to Tim. I just wanted to make sure I had everything in place and have someone to do the larger part of the work on them. As you know, I had gotten depressed over the boards that I sent to you that had problems, so I spent a lot of time reworking things. I just could not stomach anymore situations like that. And I really appreciate how you handled it. You could have really made it an ugly situation, but you chose to deal with I the way you did. And in appreciation for that and your support as being one of my best testers, I had to make the "special 03" happen for you..;) That's one mod, I don't want to do for now, but I'll stay up any night to make it happen for a few special people.

I'm also being pulled back into the commercial service world, so I'll have a few others things going on as well. I'll still be doing mods. They're a part of me. I've put too much into them over the years to walk away from them completely. plus I'll need to keep the latest and greatest happening for you and Gino..:)

Oh. forgot. One of the things I'm doing on the focus board is disabling the temp section of the board.


A few more as promised.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4135/picture440az6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9715/picture435mt5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/2650/picture439bj4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/4339/picture441hn1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7982/picture442eg5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

There is something about this that I'm not understanding.

"What I found was that after doing a reset on the projector and adjusting the focus, CPC magnets, stigamator, that when I used the 8" focus assemblies, it took almost "max" (95+) in the center position of the stigmator adjustment"

With all the manual adjustments made, the center should be as perfect as possible with the center stig adjustment at 50/50. Do you mean the static focus had to be at 95+, not the stig adjustment?

The focus mag for 8" is the same as for 9" other than a slightly higher magnetic strength. The static focus will need to be higher with 8" mag on 9" tube because of this.

Scott

Scott,

No I mean the center Stigmator adjustment had to be at 95+ just to start to achieve focus. Not Pic4 focus, or Electronic Focus. In fact none of these adjustments could achieve focus till the center Stigmator was set to a high level.

I can't explain this either. But it is exactly what happened when I changed from the 9500 focus magnetics to the 8xxx ultra focus magnetics.

I opened both and doing a visual compare they looked the same. BUT the part numbers are sure different (different gauss?)

I tried moving the 8xxx one on the neck and no improvement.
You can see the difference as soon as you put the coil on, very bad focus, that can only be brought in by dramatically changing the center position of Stigmator to almost the end of it's range.
This was all done with the lens's off looking at the face of the tube, and then lens's on looking at a screen.

Granted this is only a sample of two different 8xxx mag assys, done on different days with two different P19LCP09BMB tubes. In both cases the results were exactly the same?

Terry

Terry,

Very interesting....If you recall I'm having real problems getting P19LUGs to focus in my 8500->9500LC upgrade. I'm still using the 8500 focus magnets, so I'll have to try this, or maybe I'll eventually have to swap my 8500 mags for 9500 mags.

EDIT: Was it only one of the adjustments, or both adjustments in the center that had to be pushed to 95+?

Ben