I heard that 720p was better, because of the lack of 3:2 pulldown for 1080i.

Also, page 42 of the current manual includes 720p as a valid input. The manual is available on Panny's website also.
His is the previous model, and he was quoting the manual for that.

I wasn't trying to imply that 720p wasn't a valid input, only pointing out that most people on the forum seem to prefer 1080i. They are both valid inputs for the 50 series or later. (I guess I may have missed it, but I'd never seen a confirmation that 1080i actually lacks 3:2 pulldown, although I know it's been discussed.)

Of course, the best thing for anyone to do is try different settings and see which he/she likes better, assuming they can see any significant difference (many don't).

Thanks Bill & Macfan424,
I just looked at (Pg #45 on my owner manual) and it seems to confirm that it accepts the following:

Signal name H- Freq(lHz) V-Freq(lHz) COMPONENT HDMI
1 525 (480) /60i 15.73 59.94 ∗ ∗
2 525 (480) /60p 31.47 59.94 ∗ ∗
3 750 (720) /60p 45.00 59.94 ∗ ∗
4 1,125 (1,080) /60i 33.75 59.94 ∗ ∗

I was not aware that Panasonic plasmas might have a software update, but it makes sense. How does the new software get uploaded into the unit? Is this only for plasmas with SD cards?

Thanks for the help.

You download the firmware update that would pertain to the problem described on the firmware site. You would insert a SD reader/writer http://cgi.*********/Slim-USB-2-0-Memory-Card-Reader-4-mini-micro-SD-1GB-2GB_W0QQitemZ300056637734QQihZ020QQcategoryZ116238QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem?hash=item300056637734 Type in the well known online auction name and dot com in the blank area of the url.
Into your USB port with a blank SD card in it. Then you go to "my computer" and you will see the reader as a external hard drive. You send/drag the files to it. You then slip the card into the SD slot in the TV and follow the short directions on the screen. Each problem has it's own firmware update and has to be loaded separately. You can also call Panasonic at 1-888-777-7134 for a card already formatted that you use and send back to them for no fee.

You download the firmware update that would pertain to the problem described on the firmware site. You would insert a SD reader/writer http://cgi.*********/Slim-USB-2-0-Memory-Card-Reader-4-mini-micro-SD-1GB-2GB_W0QQitemZ300056637734QQihZ020QQcategoryZ116238QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem?hash=item300056637734 Type ********* in the blank area of the url.
Into your USB port with a blank SD card in it. Then you go to "my computer" and you will see the reader as a external hard drive. You send/drag the files to it. You then slip the card into the SD slot in the TV and follow the short directions on the screen. Each problem has it's own firmware update and has to be loaded separately. You can also call Panasonic at 1-888-777-7134 for a card already formatted that you use and send back to them for no fee.

I guess my dumb question is whether software updates exist for Panny plasmas that do not have SD cards? Of course I have no idea how the update would be applied without a USB port or SD slot, but maybe there is something I had not thought of.

I guess my dumb question is whether software updates exist for Panny plasmas that do not have SD cards? Of course I have no idea how the update would be applied without a USB port or SD slot, but maybe there is something I had not thought of.

The USB port would be on the back-side of your computer. The SD slot would be under the front "flip down panel" on the PX60's and in the back on most others labled "Service Only" slot. The card would be inserted with the lable facing you. The rest would be on-screen prompts telling you what to do next....very little other than pulling the power cord on the TV at the end of instillation.

If your TV is listed here: http://www.pasctraining.panasonic.com/SpecialApplications/ProductFirmwareDownloads/downloads1.asp

Then you have an update.

So my 2 year old took a crayon to the front glass on my TH-42PHD5UY and its' replacement will cost me more than the cost of a new plasma. It remains watch-able and while the crayon wiped off effectively, it took the anti reflective coating off the front glass.

Your ideas are welcome - anyone know where remaining stocks of 4 year old stock of front glass available at a steep discount?

So my 2 year old took a crayon to the front glass on my TH-42PHD5UY and its' replacement will cost me more than the cost of a new plasma. It remains watch-able and while the crayon wiped off effectively, it took the anti reflective coating off the front glass.

Your ideas are welcome - anyone know where remaining stocks of 4 year old stock of front glass available at a steep discount?

Yikes! as a owner of 2 plasmas and a 2 year old ;) that is my worst nightmare. How did you wipe of the crayon though, surely there must be a way to wipe it carefully (or is the coating that sensitive?). I would have taken an ice pack, put it on the crayon marks (making sure not to get them wet), then they might have come off with minimal (gentle) coaxing with a fingernail or something. Those are the instructions for removing crayon/gum from my hardwood floor at least. I do not allow crayons in my family and media rooms ... learned that the hard way, after the walls got all marked up!

Here's the temporary domain name:

http://c03.privatesystems.net/~bruzzi/forum/index.php


"bruzzi.ws" should be available in few days.

Any updates? I can't get to either

Any updates? I can't get to either

Sorry, I had to change the domain name:

www.bruzziforum.com


.

I recently purchased the Panasonic 42" 600U. Can anyone tell me if this model has any sort of pixel shifting or "screen wipe" to help reduce burn-in? I haven't had any problems related to burn-in yet, but I'm also having a hard time finding any information regarding such anti-burn-in options in the manual or in the TV's menu. Thanks!

I recently purchased the Panasonic 42" 600U. Can anyone tell me if this model has any sort of pixel shifting or "screen wipe" to help reduce burn-in? I haven't had any problems related to burn-in yet, but I'm also having a hard time finding any information regarding such anti-burn-in options in the manual or in the TV's menu. Thanks!

Sorry but only the Panasonic Commercial Displays have those features.

.

You will see what they call "clay-face". Panasonic has a firmware update that will change the internal settings and make it more easy to use the TV settings to take the CF out.
[

TH-42PX600U
TH-50PX600U
TH-58PX600U
PX600_GenX_V1-46.exe (456KB)
DG-Board EEPROM GenX Firmware


Caution:
This firmware overwrites the EEPROM on the DG board and has no effect on the tuner 1.46 9/1/2006 Poor picture details
Faces appear as "Clay Faces"
Excessive brightness with no details in the black level
Download the file to your local drive then double-click to extract the zipped files - Select a formatted SD card as the destination. To update the firmware, follow the instruction in this
firmware installtion guide Download

I have had a Panasonic approved repair guy come outlook and he han't seen anything this bad before. He contacted Panasonic and sent them photos of the screen. They replied to him saying that it was 'within specification" and so there was no fix'.
I find this very strange as no one else seems to be having this problem so bad. I am extremely disappointed with this response from Panasonic, so much so that I would not recommend them at all. I even went to another store and put the same dvd(Snatch) in a Hitachi DVD player using a Scart connected to a sightly smaller Panasonic Plasma. The picture was no where near as bad as mine , in fact it was perfectly acceptable considering it was not through HDMI or upscaled. Sounds like Panasonic have decided " might be expensive to replace or fix, therefore give corporate Bulls***t".
I am now trying to get my plasma replaced or refunded and a preparing for a long battle.
It would be interesting to hear from anyone else who has similar problems.

DP

Hi guys,

Need some help with my TH-50PHD8UK. I just bought another component board for my panny, and I can't get video to it in slot 2. Here is how I have it configured:

Slot 1 - HDMI
Slot 2 - New TY-42TM6Z component board (no BNCs, just regular component inputs)
Slot 3 - Original BNC Component board that comes up the display
Slot 4 (fixed) - VGA

I tried out the new board in Slot 3, and it works fine. And the old composite board was working in Slot 2 with no problems.

I know I can only use HDMI in slot 1. Can I use my component board in slot 2?

Thanks in advance

It should work. Try the #1 :

http://www.bruzziforum.com/vbf/showthread.php?t=71

Hi all. Well, I think I have convinced myself to go the way of Plasma, after flaking between that and LCD, 720p and 1080p. I think Plasma will suit my needs better for now, and I don't really need 1080 at this point. I'm just looking for that last nudge to pull the trigger on a Panny 50PH9UK. Besides, it's just too hard to resist with the awsome prices right now. This will be a bedroom set, 9'-10' viewing distance. Most of my viewing will be evening/night. I have D*sh network and will be viewing pretty much on equal percentages, HD, SD and DVD. My concern is with burn-in and viewing 2:35:1 or any other scope ratio movies. If I understand correctly, phosphor aging is cummulative, right? Well, most of the movies I seem to watch fall within the 2:35:1 aspect ratio. Am I correct in thinking that the black bars displayed on the top and bottom of the picture will eventually(at some point) show signs of burn-in after many hours of use? BTW, I hate using zoom on scope movies. Any info or opinions on this matter will be greatly appreciated.

And a big thanks to everyone for the great forum and excellent info. Made my decision to purchase a Plasma so much easier and confusing :D

If I understand correctly, phosphor aging is cummulative, right? Well, most of the movies I seem to watch fall within the 2:35:1 aspect ratio. Am I correct in thinking that the black bars displayed on the top and bottom of the picture will eventually(at some point) show signs of burn-in after many hours of use?




The reverse...

You are simply saving the life of those pixels since they are not being lit compared to the rest. So if you watch 2.35:1 sources straight over and over again, eventually those pixels will be brighter that the ones in the center of the picture.

Here's an exaggerated example:

http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/4974/th42px500upg38hm.jpg


Not an issue if you watch mixed content with some full screen material.
But, just in case you start getting the bars brighter than the rest, you can use the "Negative Function" and let it play for several minutes/necessary to even out the picture.

The reverse...

You are simply saving the life of those pixels since they are not being lit compared to the rest. So if you watch 2.35:1 sources straight over and over again, eventually those pixels will be brighter that the ones in the center of the picture.

Here's an exaggerated example:

http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/4974/th42px500upg38hm.jpg


Not an issue if you watch mixed content with some full screen material.
But, just in case you start getting the bars brighter than the rest, you can use the "Negative Function" and let it play for several minutes/necessary to even out the picture.

BruZZi,
Thanks for the explanation and the picture, great way to get your point across. Cudos to you!

The reverse...

You are simply saving the life of those pixels since they are not being lit compared to the rest. So if you watch 2.35:1 sources straight over and over again, eventually those pixels will be brighter that the ones in the center of the picture.

Here's an exaggerated example:

http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/4974/th42px500upg38hm.jpg


Not an issue if you watch mixed content with some full screen material.
But, just in case you start getting the bars brighter than the rest, you can use the "Negative Function" and let it play for several minutes/necessary to even out the picture.
Bruzzi.....What is "Negative Function"??

BruZZi,
Thanks for the explanation and the picture, great way to get your point across. Cudos to you!

You're Welcome. :)

Bruzzi.....What is "Negative Function"??
The "Negative Function" is one of options on the Screensaver Menu to prevent Image Retention / Burn-In.

As the name says, it'll show a negative image (black and white) of the picture displayed.

There's also a White Bar Scroll (a white bar will continue to scroll from left to right)
and Wobbling (Shift the image a dot level Up/Down/Left/Right

I posted this in the 9UK owner's thread, but then realized it might be better to post it here.

I noticed that on our 50PH9UK, pressing input 2 on the remote toggles between input 2A (composite) and input 2B (svideo). Does this mean that both inputs are now usable? Our 5th generation Panny did not toggle between the the two inputs, and only one or the other could be used, with svideo having priority.

This 2A/2B feature messes up our universal remote programming. If if input 2 is requested by two consecutive macros (e.g. "Watch VCR" and then "Watch CATV"), then the plasma switches from A to B (or vice-versa). It appears that if I switch to the PC input first and then back to input 2, the previous selection is preserved.

Anyone else run into this issue?

-Steve

I posted this in the 9UK owner's thread, but then realized it might be better to post it here.

I noticed that on our 50PH9UK, pressing input 2 on the remote toggles between input 2A (composite) and input 2B (svideo). Does this mean that both inputs are now usable?


Yup. That's why the new TY-FB9BD S-Video & Composite Board is called "Dual Terminal Board" as you can use both inputs.

Yup. That's why the new TY-FB9BD S-Video & Composite Board is called "Dual Terminal Board" as you can use both inputs.

That's good news. Thanks BruZZi.:) I was going to test it, but I don't currently have an svideo cable and didn't want to spring for one if it couldn't be used.

That's good news. Thanks BruZZi.:) I was going to test it, but I don't currently have an svideo cable and didn't want to spring for one if it couldn't be used.

You're Welcome. :)

This 2A/2B feature messes up our universal remote programming. If if input 2 is requested by two consecutive macros (e.g. "Watch VCR" and then "Watch CATV"), then the plasma switches from A to B (or vice-versa). It appears that if I switch to the PC input first and then back to input 2, the previous selection is preserved.

I don't have a "9UK" Model so I can't help you with that. Try Remote Central as you might find there discrete codes for the " 2A" and "2B" inputs.

google monoprice and check out their stuff

the cables are very inexpensive and so far have worked out quite well for me. For the price it's definitely worth trying....

I posted this in the 9UK owner's thread, but then realized it might be better to post it here.

I noticed that on our 50PH9UK, pressing input 2 on the remote toggles between input 2A (composite) and input 2B (svideo). Does this mean that both inputs are now usable? Our 5th generation Panny did not toggle between the the two inputs, and only one or the other could be used, with svideo having priority.

This 2A/2B feature messes up our universal remote programming. If if input 2 is requested by two consecutive macros (e.g. "Watch VCR" and then "Watch CATV"), then the plasma switches from A to B (or vice-versa). It appears that if I switch to the PC input first and then back to input 2, the previous selection is preserved.

Anyone else run into this issue?

-Steve

I just realized that I misread your question and so I have edited my reply to suggest that you do as Bruzzi suggested and check with remotecentral for discrete codes for 2A and 2B. However I am leaving my reply below on this forum in case it might help others with remote codes.

_________________________________________________________

I do not know what remote you are programming but I use the JP1 connector on RadioShack and URC remotes and the JP1 ir.exe and KeyMaster software that you can download off the Internet. For my Panasonic plasma TVs (TH-50PX60 and TH-42PX50) I build the macro so that it uses: TV;TV/Video{A/B};2 to select the Component #1 input, TV;TV/Video{A/B};3 to select the Component #2 input; and TV;TV/Video{A/B};4 to select the HDMI input. The TV/Video {A/B} opens the choices for input and the numbers 2, 3, or 4 makes the input choice.

I also have the TH-65PF9UK and I used a learning remote and ir.exe to identify the codes for the component and DVI inputs (as well as the Discrete On/Off codes) and then programmed them to the TV/Video keys on the remote. For example when the remote is in the SAT mode I program the TV/Video button to send out Setup Code 0250 EFC 187 HexCMD $3F to switch to the component input. When the remote is in the DVD mode I program the TV/Video button to send out Setup Code 0250 EFC 183 HexCMD $BF to switch to the DVI input. I then build the macros so that for example to watch using the DVD player I use DVD;TV/Video{A/B} at the begininng of the macro to switch the TV to the DVI input. All of the rest of my component sources go through my Yamaha receiver and I thus use the Yamaha to switch those sources. You can set the TH-65PF9UK to always turn on using the same input so I chose Component input so that I don't have to do a lot of switching of the TV unless I want to watch the DVD player using the HDMI to DVI cable to the DVI input of the TV.

I don't know if that helps.

I just realized that I misread your question and so I have edited my reply to suggest that you do as Bruzzi suggested and check with remotecentral for discrete codes for 2A and 2B. However I am leaving my reply below on this forum in case it might help others with remote codes.

_________________________________________________________

I do not know what remote you are programming but I use the JP1 connector on RadioShack and URC remotes and the JP1 ir.exe and KeyMaster software that you can download off the Internet. For my Panasonic plasma TVs (TH-50PX60 and TH-42PX50) I build the macro so that it uses: TV;TV/Video{A/B};2 to select the Component #1 input, TV;TV/Video{A/B};3 to select the Component #2 input; and TV;TV/Video{A/B};4 to select the HDMI input. The TV/Video {A/B} opens the choices for input and the numbers 2, 3, or 4 makes the input choice.

I also have the TH-65PF9UK and I used a learning remote and ir.exe to identify the codes for the component and DVI inputs (as well as the Discrete On/Off codes) and then programmed them to the TV/Video keys on the remote. For example when the remote is in the SAT mode I program the TV/Video button to send out Setup Code 0250 EFC 187 HexCMD $3F to switch to the component input. When the remote is in the DVD mode I program the TV/Video button to send out Setup Code 0250 EFC 183 HexCMD $BF to switch to the DVI input. I then build the macros so that for example to watch using the DVD player I use DVD;TV/Video{A/B} at the begininng of the macro to switch the TV to the DVI input. All of the rest of my component sources go through my Yamaha receiver and I thus use the Yamaha to switch those sources. You can set the TH-65PF9UK to always turn on using the same input so I chose Component input so that I don't have to do a lot of switching of the TV unless I want to watch the DVD player using the HDMI to DVI cable to the DVI input of the TV.

I don't know if that helps.

aprest,
I also use a URC remote and JP1 and I have the discrete codes for the PC input and slots 1-3. The problem is that slot 2 has the supplied dual terminal board (1 ea. composite and svideo). If input 2 on the plasma has already been selected, then pressing a macro that also selects input 2 causes the plasma to toggle between 2A (composite) and 2B (svid). So far, I haven't been able to find separate discrete codes for 2A and 2B.

As I mentioned previously, selecting another input first, and then input 2, causes the plasma to stay on the currently selected sub-input (A or B).

Regards,
Steve

aprest,
I also use a URC remote and JP1 and I have the discrete codes for the PC input and slots 1-3. The problem is that slot 2 has the supplied dual terminal board (1 ea. composite and svideo). If input 2 on the plasma has already been selected, then pressing a macro that also selects input 2 causes the plasma to toggle between 2A (composite) and 2B (svid). So far, I haven't been able to find separate discrete codes for 2A and 2B.

As I mentioned previously, selecting another input first, and then input 2, causes the plasma to stay on the currently selected sub-input (A or B).

Regards,
Steve

I guess you could assign a key to toggle between 2A and 2B but then you would have to switch manually if it is on the wrong one.

I am curious why you are using composite and S-Video. I bought the bullet a few years ago and bought a Yamaha receiver that can upconvert video inputs to component so that I can run just a set of component cables from the receiver to the TV. Someday I want to buy the new Yamaha that upconverts to HDMI but so far I haven't had to. I like the Yamaha better than Denon or Onkyo because the remote codes are simple and discrete codes are available for everything.

If you come across the discrete codes please post them here.

You're Welcome. :)


The "Negative Function" is one of options on the Screensaver Menu to prevent Image Retention / Burn-In.

As the name says, it'll show a negative image (black and white) of the picture displayed.

There's also a White Bar Scroll (a white bar will continue to scroll from left to right)
and Wobbling (Shift the image a dot level Up/Down/Left/Right

Is there anything like this for the consumer Panny PX60U models?

Is there anything like this for the consumer Panny PX60U models?

Unfortunately not.

What can PX60U owners do if they develop reverse burn-in of the top and bottom bars, as in the picture above?

Sorry if this has been asked before, but did not find an answer in Bruzzi's FAQs.....what happens when one unplugs a 9UK, i.e., service and setup menu items? Do you have 30 seconds before losing those settings? TIA....

Sorry if this has been asked before, but did not find an answer in Bruzzi's FAQs.....what happens when one unplugs a 9UK, i.e., service and setup menu items? Do you have 30 seconds before losing those settings? TIA....

I have not specifically tested our 9UK, but on our previous Panny (42" 5UZ), the settings were preserved indefinitely. Seems they are permanently stored in some type of flash memory.

Just a note, but the Plasma Forum Thread Rules link in the original post is invalid.

Just a note, but the Plasma Forum Thread Rules link in the original post is invalid.


Fixed. :)

I recently (yesterday), purchased a Panasonic TH-42PX600U after much deliberation and some help from the folks here. I'm just learning all the technical jargon so excuse my remedial vocabulary. I need help to decide what else to buy. This is what else I currently have: 1) An old (6yrs) non-progressive Sony DVD player, 2) an old (5yrs) Pioneer receiver with 2 component RGB outputs and 5.1 surround, 3) a Playstation 2, 4) A comcast HD cable box with DVR.

I've already decided to avoid the Blu-ray/HD devices for now while they battle it out for supremacy. So my questions...

1) Do I need to buy a new progressive DVD player to optimize playing of standard DVD's on my new plasma? If so, which one? I've done some research and the OPPO DV-970HD looks pretty good.

2) Should I upgrade receivers now or can I wait to put a little more dough in the bank? i.e. what do i sacrifice with my current receiver?

3) Any advice on a universal remote? A colleague suggested the Logitech Harmony 880 Advanced Universal Remote , and it sounds pretty good.

Thanks in advance...I look forward to hearing your responses

I recently (yesterday), purchased a Panasonic TH-42PX600U after much deliberation and some help from the folks here. I'm just learning all the technical jargon so excuse my remedial vocabulary. I need help to decide what else to buy. This is what else I currently have: 1) An old (6yrs) non-progressive Sony DVD player, 2) an old (5yrs) Pioneer receiver with 2 component RGB outputs and 5.1 surround, 3) a Playstation 2, 4) A comcast HD cable box with DVR.

I've already decided to avoid the Blu-ray/HD devices for now while they battle it out for supremacy. So my questions...

1) Do I need to buy a new progressive DVD player to optimize playing of standard DVD's on my new plasma? If so, which one? I've done some research and the OPPO DV-970HD looks pretty good.

2) Should I upgrade receivers now or can I wait to put a little more dough in the bank? i.e. what do i sacrifice with my current receiver?

3) Any advice on a universal remote? A colleague suggested the Logitech Harmony 880 Advanced Universal Remote , and it sounds pretty good.

Thanks in advance...I look forward to hearing your responses

Good Choice, I just got one of these sets about a week ago as well. Love It! :)

1) Yeah, a DVD player upgrade is a good idea, expecially if you watch a lot of movies. The Oppo players are all solid. I really like my Sony NSP-D70 and most of the Sony's seem decent.

2) Thats up to you, You can get a pretty good complete surround system with a receiver, speakers, and subwoofer for like $200-$300 bucks. I did, and even at its modest cost it makes my living room a freegin theater.

3) Not sure about remotes.... I just use the two different ones I need.

Good Luck! ;)

As afr as a remote is concerned, the Universla MX-850 and MX-900 are excellent units. See the reviews at Remote Central.

As far as a remote is concerned, the Univeral MX-850 and MX-900 are excellent units. See the reviews at Remote Central.

I am brand new to the forum and hope I am in the right place (the forum is a little overwhelming) with this question. I have been reading and watching the 50 " tv's and it seems from all I can find the Panasonic TH-50PX60U is the best bang for the buck. I went into tweeters and the salesman is trying to push me towards the pioneer PDP5016 HD which I understand is built for tweeter. In the store the picture was better on the pioneer but was that due to set up? I can't find a lot of feed back about the pioneer unit so I am a little sceptical of it and still leaning to the "panny" Any thoughts?
thanks,
crossworxz

I just received a Panasonic TH-42PX60U as an early Christmas present. However, when I hooked up the external speakers and turned off the TV speakers, I am unable to adjust the volume from the TV remote (it says speakers off).

I find it very difficult to believe that a TV of this stature does not have a variable volume adjustment for the external speakers. Am I doing something wrong here, or is this feature not present in this unit? The old TV that this is replacing (a 5-10 year old 19" low-end CRT) even had this feature. I'm clueless here. Please help!

As a side note, my pre-amp is a McIntosh C35. Does anyone know what the remote control code is for this Mac? I suppose this would be another way around this issue.

We have a home of our own now.

:) :) Thank you for listening. :) :)

We have a home of our own now.

:) :) Thank you for listening. :) :)

Yup... Miracles Do Happen !!!! :D :D :D

Hi all,

I'm new to this thread. A ton of good information as I am a new owner of a TH-50PX6U. Based on all the good info, I decided to call Panasonic today to request the new Firmware version 1.25. I checked & I have version 1.21. They are going to send out the SD card with instuctions to install the new version.

This leads me to my question: I'm not sure this update is worth doing? So far my picture is fine to me.
I use the standard pic mode with my picture set @ 0, my brightness set @ 0, and my sharpness set @ +15. I've only used the TV for 150 hours at this point.

I don't see poor picture details, faces that appear too "Clay" like, Excessive brightness with no details in the black level. Again, I've only watched 150 hours on the TV...just trying to break it in. Okay, maybe I've seen a few faces that could have been clay like.

Should I install the new Firmware V1.25? Has anybody done this with positive results? Newer is better correct? They wouldn't make a new update for nothing? Right? You guys know, so tell me what to do.

Thanks for your time & Happy Holidays!! :cool:

Hi all,

I'm new to this thread. A ton of good information as I am a new owner of a TH-50PX6U. Based on all the good info, I decided to call Panasonic today to request the new Firmware version 1.25. I checked & I have version 1.21. They are going to send out the SD card with instuctions to install the new version.

This leads me to my question: I'm not sure this update is worth doing? So far my picture is fine to me.
I use the standard pic mode with my picture set @ 0, my brightness set @ 0, and my sharpness set @ +15. I've only used the TV for 150 hours at this point.

I don't see poor picture details, faces that appear too "Clay" like, Excessive brightness with no details in the black level. Again, I've only watched 150 hours on the TV...just trying to break it in. Okay, maybe I've seen a few faces that could have been clay like.

Should I install the new Firmware V1.25? Has anybody done this with positive results? Newer is better correct? They wouldn't make a new update for nothing? Right? You guys know, so tell me what to do.

Thanks for your time & Happy Holidays!! :cool:

I have the 42" set and also do NOT see any of these artifacts. I am not going to do the upgrade since Im from the school of "If its not broke then dont fix it". If your set is performing well then I would leave it alone. On crappier HD feeds you might see some digital artifacts, I have myself. But, those are not the TV's fault. If you see something on ALL source material then its prolly the TV.... thats my take on it anyways. ;)

One thing though: Turn that sharpness down a bit! +15 is way high compared to what most calibrated sets are at.

I was curious about the variations in the "Picture" modes - Auto/Standard/Dynamic/Cinema - on my 7UY and noticed something kind of weird while messing around with it.

If I customize the settings to the same parameters (Picture, Brightness, Color, Sharpness, Color Temp, Gamma, etc.) on both Standard and Dynamic modes for the component input (going to my cable STB) there is no discernable difference in the picture - the picture in both modes look identical.

However, if I do the same on the S-Video input there is a noticeable difference even with identical settings on Standard and Dynamic. Not a tremendous difference, but one nonetheless - a subtle vibrancy on Dynamic as compared to Standard.

Anyone know why this is so? Thanks.

I just noticed something else, hence the edit. If I leave the advanced settings in the menu to off, I do notice a slight difference in the Standard and Dynamic modes using identical primary settings as described above. If I turn on the advanced settings in both Standard and Dynamic menus (with identical default parameters) any visual difference in modes is not perceivable. Of course when the advanced settings are off I can't see what the parameters are, but they must be different for each mode.