I'm getting ready to pre-wire my new house......the sheetrock goes up in 2 weeks. I'm wiring for the russound whole house audio and a couple of cat5e cables for internet.......is there anything else that would be really useful to have it pre-wired for? I'm particulary interested in suggestions for pre-wiring for a projector in the theater room. I'm thinking about running some sort of conduit up to the projector too from where the components will eventually be. Any suggestions?? Thanks!

Typically projectors can support the following inputs RS-232, Network, HDMI, Component and of course power. Most people will suggest to just go with the Component to projector to save money. I was able to run a 75 foot HDMI cable from my stereo closet to my projector for under $100.

Skip saving money and run the extra cables, you will thank yourself later. I ran, component, dvi, hdmi and 2 cat 5 to mine. The only expensive cable is the hdmi and even then you are only talking $250. Compared to the price of the projector and screen that is a drop in the bucket.

Conduit make it easier if you have or want to change a cable later and makes a little cleaner install. So if it is an option run it.

There's no way I'd drop $250 on a cable that I don't know I'm going to use. It's really not that difficult to put in some conduit and be able to pull whatever you want later.

I'd put in component and cat-5 outside of the conduit, and a pullstring or two in it. Future proof.

One thing to consider is power up for the projector. Often people assume you should just have the electricians "or yourself" have an outlet installed for the projector. What I like to do is run a 14/2 romex up near the conduit "Smurf Tube" and have it terminated into a single gang box next to the A/V equipment location. Do not tie it into power though. When it is time to install the projector I will install a remodel box and outlet up by the projector. At the end down by the A/V I will install a 3 prong appliance cord which ties into that 14/2 cable to feed the outlet up at the projector. Since one hopefully will invest in a decent surge protector for their A/V equipment, that same surge protector can now protect the projector as well. Looks much cleaner than one of those small surge protectors that covers the outlet up by the projector.

^ Yup.
I've been recommending the same thing to people as well (for various reasons). I did this the first time 4 yrs. ago to utilize 1 large UPS by my network rack for multiple systems in my office, which is at the opposite end of the house.

Word to the wise...
PLEASE make sure you know what you're doing. DO NOT use an outlet as an inlet!!!!

Even cleaner (and actually code, as opposed to what you're suggesting - 14/2 with a plug on it run through plenum space), is to use a permanent reverse-prong "outlet" at the rack, and plug the female end of the extension cord into it.

In other words, you use an inlet receptacle instead of an outlet receptacle, but when it's not in use it's not hot, so no problems there. It just happens to be a more obvious inlet since it's a male inlet.

This has been discussed numerous times before on this forum. Search for "projector outlet".

Previous threads had dead links for the inlet I'm talking about. I just found it again - seems the domain name changed:

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm

Not too bad - $20 to become code compliant.

You must have misunderstood what I was discribing if you believe my method would not be in compliance with NEC.
There is a standard AC receptical "I discribed it as an OUTLET as that is what 90% of homeowners call a receptical" that will be flush mounted in the ceiling by the projector. At the equipment location you will have a flush mounted box with a 3 pronged appliance cord coming out at the required length to reach your surge protector. You make the transition from 14/2 Romex wiring, to the appliance cord "3 prong plug at end" in that box. This isolated circuit is not energized untill that three prong cord is inserted into your surge protector and just the outlet by the projector energized.
I take it you were thinking I was suggesting just running an extension cord in the wall / ceiling, which I wasn't. Note that I clearly discribed it as 14/2 Romex which is a brand of NM cable which is what you will find running throughout the walls and ceiling of all newer homes.
Lastly, you made a statement about running wiring through a "plenum space" Do remember that wall and ceiling areas in a residentual structure is generaly not considered a plenum environment. The only plenum areas in a residentual "home" structure will be the actual heating / cooling ducts or the cold air returns.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y30/CraigVM62/projectwiring.jpg

CV-

That is exactly what I did as well.
Except, since my rack is in the garage, I had a surface mount box and conduit ;)
No need to spend $20 for an "approved inlet" (which I mentioned in my post as well) for my situation. If this was a flush mount setup in a "living" area then I would have used one.

CVanMeter, I was replying to video123's comment about not using an outlet as an inlet. I understand exactly how you implemented yours. Frankly, I'm flabbergasted that this supposedly passes NEC - I heard this in another thread recently on the subject as well. One yank of the extension cord and those wire nuts in the j-box are worthless. It's not worth saving the $20, IMO; an inlet box is a much cleaner install as well. But what you suggest, "works", of course.

Thanks for correcting my misuse of the plenum term; you're right. I meant truss/stud space.

Since Video321 did not go into any details at all about the inwall / ceiling wiring I didn't see that you could have been replying to his comments.
I didn't think I needed to go into the fine details. You do provide a method of Strain Relief by perhaps tightening a large zip tie, tieing a knot in the cord just behind the hole in the wall plate. We normaly just install a blank plate untill the equipment is the be installed, then the cord is implemented. Cord is always long enough to easily allow equipment to be pulled out and then disconnected. As an electrical contractor, I and my crews have been providing power for projectors and flat screen installations for over 8 years now in 200+ homes. Only comments regarding this method from electrical inspectors have been complements. For someone to be "Yanking" on this cord hard enough to pull out the colored metal plates we use, it would have to be intentional neglect. Something that is pretty much impossible to protect against.
Since it hopefully will all be hidden behind equipmentin in cabinet ... function over form might be the point here.

For the record...

Since I used a surface mount box the "extension cord" was secured through a knockout in the box. Nothing against code here and secured. :cool:
Besides, there is worse. Think about a house with romex running through open walls (garage/basement) with poor stapling.