View Full Version : Are my Exterior / Vaulted cabling plans sane? Better Ideas?
aymanme 01-06-07, 01:35 AM Thanks, I hope this is an ok place to post, I could not find a more appropriate forum. I recently purchased the 50" 9UK and would like to wall mount it. I've got a mount in mind that will work but I am unsure about the cabling. I plan on a space between two windows that is about 54" long. The wall unfortunately is an exterior wall and there is a vaulted part of the ceiling that rises around 6' until it is parallel to the floor and attic accessible (photo attached). The panel will be where the pictures is.
There are no firebreaks that I could detect, but I did find the approximate location of 3 studs. My plan is to drill a hole at the top of the wall through the load bearing 2x4's at the top and into the vaulted part. The next part is to feed the fish tape through the whole and with luck far enough into the attic so I can reach it. Then I'll pull the cable through the whole (that is eventually patched) and then along the paper of the insulation to the boxes near the floor. I am pulling RG6-QS, UTP, and 3 rear speaker runs. I can't run across the floor (wood), under (slab), or around the perimeter (rear wall / fireplace is all masonry), so I dont think I have too many options here. I've pulled cable throughout the rest of the house (including the masonry wall), so I have some experience doing it.
The wiring from the floor back up to the display is much simpler though I don't think my flanged L6-20 will fit without moving some wall insulation.
I read all 81 Pages of the owners thread and do not recall seeing any (obviously) exterior wall installations.
Questions? Has anyone tried something like this before? Success? Any other thoughts or tips? Is there something I am not considering that might make this easier.
Update: I was able to access the neighboring roof rafter from a soffit vent on the outside of the house, so I've successfully fished my tape from the top of the wall to the accessible part of the attic.
Thanks!
From experience, have you yet tried to get up in the attic to get to the top wall sill plate to run the wire down the wall? I was in the same boat and felt it would be simple, but NO! Harly any space in attic to move around in vaulted ceilings. At least in my case.
aymanme 01-09-07, 05:28 PM From experience, have you yet tried to get up in the attic to get to the top wall sill plate to run the wire down the wall? I was in the same boat and felt it would be simple, but NO! Harly any space in attic to move around in vaulted ceilings. At least in my case.
There is not enough space to move around in the ceiling, and I did consider that, but I could not seem to get my hands into the wall w/o drilling the sill plate. I haven't drilled yet due to bad weather, but my soffit plan still looks ok, though it will require me to patch one hole at the top of the wall. Ideally, I would like to run the tape down the wall on the paper side of the insulation w/o popping another hole, but so far I don't think it is possible. I was happy enough just to get the tape pulled all the way from the wall through the vaulted ceiling and into the accessible part of the attic.
pmiranda 03-24-08, 03:01 PM So, how did this work out?
I'm buying a house this week with a vaulted ceiling and I want to run cable through it. Since there are AC ducts in the ceiling I'm optimistic that there is a way to run cable most of the way down the ceiling, and I am already going to be opening the wall to remove a bookcase.
If I have room, I think I'll run a flexible pipe, but I'm not sure that I can find one at HD or Lowes that's big enough for 2 pair of speakers, a CAT5, and one or two RG6's...
aymanme 03-24-08, 03:35 PM I'm buying a house this week with a vaulted ceiling and I want to run cable through it. Since there are AC ducts in the ceiling I'm optimistic that there is a way to run cable most of the way down the ceiling, and I am already going to be opening the wall to remove a bookcase.
If I have room, I think I'll run a flexible pipe, but I'm not sure that I can find one at HD or Lowes that's big enough for 2 pair of speakers, a CAT5, and one or two RG6's...
It worked out great, it was lots of climbing up and down but eventually I got it done. In the end, I ran cabling up an exterior wall, through the top sill plate, through the vaulted ceiling, down an interior brick wall and then to the plate. It was a pain, but it worked.
There should be an air gap (at least several inches) between the top of the ceiling and the roof, otherwise your bills will be outrageous. The tricky part is you can't really climb on anything. What I ended up doing was using a fishtape and just kind of slowy guiding it down the rafters until I hit what I thought to be the wall (I marked on the fishtape a certain distance). Then I would go back out and try to find it. My insulation was white and the tape was black so it was kind of easy to spot once I got in the right area.
Getting through the top sill plate was the most difficult since there is no easy way to get a drill in there. I ended up going through the outside of the house and up through the soffit vents to drill into the sill plate and get access to the wiring.
In case you were not aware, you cannot run most wiring in the duct work.
pmiranda 03-24-08, 03:44 PM Great to hear that! Aside from "plenum" CAT-5, yeah, you can't run cable through duct work due to the smoke/fire concern, but I figure if there's room for a duct, there must be room for a cable... maybe not in the same stud bay, but in the next one over?
aymanme 03-24-08, 04:00 PM Great to hear that! Aside from "plenum" CAT-5, yeah, you can't run cable through duct work due to the smoke/fire concern, but I figure if there's room for a duct, there must be room for a cable... maybe not in the same stud bay, but in the next one over?
definately, but probably in the same one as well. there was probably at least 8"-12" between the ceiling and the roof rafters (in other words, the sheetrock did not attach directly to the roof rafters above). So it was easy to go from the space between studs to the space between the next set of studs. In the wall I could not do that, but in that case it was easy to steer the cables where I wanted them. It was a little tough trying not to break the paper backing on the wall insulation, but not impossible.
pmiranda 03-24-08, 04:12 PM Now all I need is a good flashlight and a longer fish tape... I just noticed you're in Austin, too... what part? I'm SW.
aymanme 03-24-08, 04:37 PM Now all I need is a good flashlight and a longer fish tape... I just noticed you're in Austin, too... what part? I'm SW.
I'm in NW Austin in the Great Hills / Laurel Oaks area. It's a long drive, but you are welcome to borrow my tape, it is 20 or 25'. Not sure I have a useful flashlight, I can't remember what exactly I used for illumination.
pmiranda 03-24-08, 05:16 PM I've got a 25 footer already...maybe it's long enough...I'm going up 9 or 10 feet and over about 16, so that shouldn't be much over 19 feet if the Pythagorean theorem still works here.
Had to comment here since I'm a local Austinite too :)
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