Extreme Makeover-Home Theater Edition Construction Thread [Text View]

judsonp

01-08-07, 11:10 AM

After reading a dizzying amount of information on this forum I finally decided that I had to have a dedicated home theater in my house. I figured that if I used the ugliest room in the house my wife wouldn't mind a little dust. As I formulated the plans the WAF went very high so I tore into the room on a mission to create our Theater.
Here are some specs:
Room size: 13X20X7.5ft
Seating: Two Rows of 4, second one on a riser. Commercial theater style seats
Equipment: TBD, mostly using what I already have to put the money into the room.

False screen wall with an AT screen and all speakers mounted behind the wall/screen.

2.37 AR screen approx. 42"X100"

GPowers and many others have inspired me to come up with a hybrid design to use frames in my theater so I will have all my walls covered by material.

I hope you enjoy this project as much as I will!

And now... Move that bus!

Here is the room before: (note - these are the previous owners furnishings)
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Before.jpg

As you can see this room is very deserving of a makeover.

The ceiling coming down - no obstructions for drywalling the ceiling - whew!
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/FrontLeft.jpg
Behind the closet doors there is a water meter and a gas meter. I will have to build a new wall about 22 inches from the existing block wall to hide this. I will have to devise a creative way to access both of these while still maintaining a clean look in the theater.

You can see where I taped off the floor to get a visual idea of where I would like things to be. The two meters will fit nicely between the two columns on the left side.

Here is a shot of the closet removed and the exposed block down the left side http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/LeftSide.jpg

All the block is exposed. One spot that showed some water was caused by a downspout overflowing. The problem is fixed but the outlet doesn't look so good. It is removed in the first picture, but here is a close up.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/morebarewalls.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/moistureplug2.jpg

Crew foreman inspecting the worksite
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/hammertime.jpg

More on it's way...

judsonp

01-08-07, 11:45 AM

I was able to get a little more done this weekend. The cove that used to be the bar needs to come out and a regular wall put in it's place.

Start of wall removal
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Rightwallcove.jpg

Paneling down, now for the drywall and studs
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/startingmoredemo.jpg

Wall gone - exposing the chaos that is my workshop
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/wallgone.jpg

New wall in place. Looking from workshop towards theater
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/newwall.jpg

Finally a step towards building something new instead of just demolition.

Tukkis

01-08-07, 11:33 PM

Nice progress! Good to see you're doing a Scope screen and even AT. Fantastic

judsonp

01-09-07, 12:56 PM

Thanks Tukkis, I blame you guys in the 2.35 forum... :D

Tukkis

01-09-07, 05:17 PM

Thanks Tukkis, I blame you guys in the 2.35 forum...

Hehe. You'll love having that shape screen. There's no going back. Plus you're doing it with AT material so even more realistic. Now you really have a cinema screen and not a giant tv.

judsonp

01-12-07, 11:47 AM

While working in the theater last night I realized I have not made plans to accomodate a cold air return. There is an air duct in the ceiling which will provide Heat and A/C but I have a feeling that once I get this room closed up it will need the air flow of a return as well.
The good news is there are cold air return ducts overhead that I can tap into. I have seen this before and think that it is a recognized method.

Can I just elbow into a cold air return and run a box between the joists?
Should the opening be high or low on the wall based on the ceiling location of the hot/cold vent?
Will this method cause extreme amounts of sound to travel through the ducts to other areas of the house? I am not doing double drywall, or anything fancy for isolation, but being able to hear into the theater plain as day doesn't sound good to me.

Thanks,
Judson

judsonp

01-13-07, 08:13 PM

I talked to my Father in law today who is an HVAC guy. He thought I could elbow right out of the return above that wall and use the wall cavity for the cold air return. He suggested putting the vent about 8-10" above the floor since the intake is on the ceiling.

judsonp

01-15-07, 09:37 AM

I finally have a real room. Sort of... At least now I have 4 walls. I spent a good portion of the weekend manipulating the existing structure to get the back wall in place.
I had to trim off the drywall, add a few nailer boards for the existing drywall, and add a section for the new wall to nail to.

Drywall trimmed. I love the laser level
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater005.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater007.jpg

Here is the 2X4 added for the new wall to nail to
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater015.jpg

Now for the other side of the wall. I had to remove the drywall and paneling to see if I had to add something to nail the other end of the wall to
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater014.jpg

The carpet on the steps needs to be removed so I can trim the stair tread flush with the wall. One down, millions of staples to go
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater009.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater010.jpg

Carpet removed, treads trimmed, wall built and in place. I have a few more fasteners to add and the remainder of the door to frame out but I say it qualifies as a wall. The theater is officially enclosed.
You can see the existing make-shift theater in the background
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater2003.jpg

The stairs aren't square (big surprise) so there is a larger gap at the base of the steps then there is at the top. I will deal with that another day.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater2009.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater2004.jpg

That's it for now!

chinaclipper

01-15-07, 11:16 PM

judsonp

01-16-07, 10:50 AM

Thanks Tom, I have been watching your thread as well. Your theater is really taking shape! You are right, it is hard to get started. It is so easy to get caught up in the never-ending-planning loop.
I hear great things about the SMX screen material and I would have gone that direction too but I had already picked up Dazian Coated Celtic Cloth. I will give that a try first and upgrade to the SMX if the results are undesireable.

judsonp

01-16-07, 02:00 PM

woolfman

01-16-07, 04:27 PM

After much debate I finally decided to order the Lutron Spacer System to control the lighting in my theater. I will have 3 zones: 6-5" cans in the seating area, 2-3" cans in the "snack" area, and 3-3" cans over the screen. I got rocker dimmers with IR and a 5 scene master controller. It is pretty simple stuff but I don't anticipate doing anything more complicated than this. Switches and wall plate are black to match my trim.

http://www.lutron.com/spacer/images/4gang_ddd5_275x150.jpg
Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Hey i just wanted to mention about the spacer you are looking to use. If you want to control all areas seperatly via remote control then rememember the IR remote will turn all off on dim etc. If you want true control of independant zones then the grfik eye would be a better choice.

Woolfman

judsonp

01-16-07, 07:02 PM

Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Hey i just wanted to mention about the spacer you are looking to use. If you want to control all areas seperatly via remote control then rememember the IR remote will turn all off on dim etc. If you want true control of independant zones then the grfik eye would be a better choice.

Woolfman

Yes, this really is just a weekend project. However, it is the next gazillion weekends...

I read most of the Grafik Eye thread and I kept coming to the conclusion that the Spacer system was kind of a Grafik Eye lite at a fraction of the cost. Really my goal is to be able to remember the zones programming and change scenes remotely.

Push button for movie theme lighting (zone 1 off, zone 2 10%, zone 3 off)
Push button for sports theme lighting (zone 1 off, zone 2 50%, zone 3 30%)
Push button for all on
Push button for all off

If this isn't what the spacer will do then it will be back to the drawing board.

mbgonzomd

01-16-07, 09:09 PM

Dude, it looks good so far. I think you should reuse the wood panelling within the theater. It would make a wickedly awesome retro 70's theater :D Instead of a star ceiling you could get a disco ball. As for acoustics, I am not so sure how wood paneling will perform.

RedArt

01-17-07, 02:06 AM

If this isn't what the spacer will do then it will be back to the drawing board.

I looked at similar simple options for my theater lighting and ended up with the Grafik Eye 2404. I have a Harmony Remote 880 ( assuming I can program it appropriately), so I didn't spend the money for the remote, but my 4 zone 2404 unit can be found for $300-$350. With the spacer system I looked at, I was going to spend $200+. I figured since I was putting so much into the theater, I would just spend the extra $100 and do the Grafik Eye.

I am very happy with it thus far. I have wired up two zones for testing and it is not a difficult wiring job. Now I need to wire up my rope lighting on my stairs and my screen lights and I will be done. I just rationalized that it is something I couldn't change easily in the future if I didn't like the spacer system.

danhal

01-17-07, 02:40 AM

Awesome so far. I love these home theater build threads. Keep us updated!

judsonp

01-17-07, 11:18 AM

Gonzo,

I guess I could call it the Swanky theater or something. That would be groovy! I think your right the paneling would not be too good. How about if I covered all the walls in crushed velvet...

judsonp

01-17-07, 11:22 AM

I looked at similar simple options for my theater lighting and ended up with the Grafik Eye 2404. I have a Harmony Remote 880 ( assuming I can program it appropriately), so I didn't spend the money for the remote, but my 4 zone 2404 unit can be found for $300-$350. With the spacer system I looked at, I was going to spend $200+. I figured since I was putting so much into the theater, I would just spend the extra $100 and do the Grafik Eye.

I am very happy with it thus far. I have wired up two zones for testing and it is not a difficult wiring job. Now I need to wire up my rope lighting on my stairs and my screen lights and I will be done. I just rationalized that it is something I couldn't change easily in the future if I didn't like the spacer system.

RedArt,

I already ordered the spacer stuff so I will at least give it a try. If it doesn't work as I hope I will probably end up ordering a GE too. 2000 Series.

judsonp

01-17-07, 11:23 AM

Awesome so far. I love these home theater build threads. Keep us updated!

Thanks Dan, it has been really "fun" so far. Check back I intend to document the whole thing!

Judson

judsonp

01-26-07, 11:12 AM

Yesterday was a big day! My Dad came over to help with the framing and we ended up finishing 95% of the walls. I have a couple odds and ends to finish but not much more than a few hours.

We finished the left side first as it had the most work to do. Right inside the door is a cove that will be a snack bar/storage area, to the right of that will be a column then a false panel to access the gas and water meter. Still have to figure out how to finish that out. There will be more framing on the upper part of that opening. To the right of that will be another column. It is about 5.5 feet between the columns.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theaterframing015.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theaterframing014.jpg

The front wall is done too. I still have to build something to cover the window that would be removeable if I ever needed access. You can see the tape lines for the stage on the floor.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theaterframing013.jpg

Here is another shot from the front wall looking back at the snack bar and the entrance.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theaterframing016.jpg

And one last shot showing the left walls distance from the block.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theaterframing012.jpg

Next comes the addition of an air return, lighting and electrical, and then drywall.

ScottS

01-26-07, 03:54 PM

AudioBob

01-26-07, 10:06 PM

judsonp

01-27-07, 05:01 PM

judsonp,

I notice that some of your walls have a double top plate. Did you attach one top plate to the ceiling, build the wall on the floor, then raise it and attach in place? Is that easier/ faster than cutting individual studs to length and fastening them one at a time?

I'm curious what method you used.

Thanks,
Scott

Scott,

Good catch, yes that is exactly what we did. I can't stand to toe nail and you can't build the wall the correct height and be able to stand it up because the floor joists above would be in the way. It uses a couple extra studs but it also allowed us to set the distance from the concrete block before we even raised the wall. Once the top plate was secured all we had to do was plumb the bottom and attach to the floor.

Judson

judsonp

01-27-07, 05:04 PM

What you have done so far looks really good. That room definately screamed 1970's. What did you do with the Pabst Blue Ribbon sign??? :-) The good thing is that paneling is quite easy to tear down. However, the firring strips are a whole other problem.

Bob,

Thanks for the complement, so far I am really having fun. Unfortunately that picture was taken before we bought the house so the previous owners took all that stuff with them. I am thinking of putting those sconces back up though...

Your right, the paneling came right down, but the furring strips and the styrofoam was a royal pain in the a**.

Judson

judsonp

02-21-07, 09:52 AM

Well things are moving pretty slow with the construction but I have had a little time to sneak off to the big box stores for some supplies. I also have been scouring the web for deals on electrical products.

I got 6 of my can lights installed. I decided on 3 zones:

Zone 1 - 6 Halo H5ICAT 5" cans (general seating)
Zone 2 - 3 Halo H36TAT 3" cans (screen wash)
Zone 3 - 2 Halo H36TAT 3" cans (snack bar cove)

I ended up getting all my cans from North Shore Lighting online. Great service, excellent prices, and only one state away so shipping is quick.

Zone 1 cans are up, zones 2 and 3 are in the mail.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electricalkickoff003.jpg

These are so easy to install. I think I did all six in about 15 minutes.

I also picked up all of my boxes - a variety of Carlon low and high voltage.

Since I have Boston VR965 speakers with subs built in I need power behind the stage so I got 2 Leviton surge protector outlets to plug them into.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Leviton5380.jpg

Hopefully will have some time this weekend to get rolling on the wiring...

heney

02-21-07, 11:09 AM

dc_pilgrim

02-21-07, 12:10 PM

Zone 1 - 6 Halo H5ICAT 5" cans (general seating)
Zone 2 - 3 Halo H36TAT 3" cans (screen wash)
Zone 3 - 2 Halo H36TAT 3" cans (snack bar cove)

Anything in particular that drew you to these cans? I need to start to figure that out soon. I'll check that site for prices, too. . .

Looking good, too!

judsonp

02-21-07, 12:30 PM

Well great job so far, I'm really looking forward to seeing how this turns out, as almost every aspect so far is very similar to what my room will be(should start construction sometime soon, God willing)

I'll be doing a 2.37 AT screen on a false wall in a 12'6" by 19'6" by 8' room with two rows of 4 commercial style theater seating and a riser.

How are you going about the CIH? Lens, zoom? If lens, which one?

What type of screen will you be using?

Have you had any luck finding commercial style theater seats?

Heney,

Everything starts going really fast once you jump in. I was the same way as you and stayed in the planning phase for a long time. I wanted to be sure I had everything ironed out before go time.

Regarding the CIH I plan to make my own lense once the room is done. If I can't pull that off I will probably look at a Panamorph. Since I only have an IF4805 I don't want to spend too much on a lense. Also, I am using a Home theater PC running Media Center and Theatertek so I have lots of options for scaling.

I bought Dazian Coated Celtic Cloth for my screen. Should be a good start. I also hear really good things about the SMX screen material.

As far as commercial style seats, yes, I found exactly what I was looking for HERE (http://seatsandchairs.com/products_detail.asp?CategoryID=2&ProductID=3&pagesize=200&currentpage=1). Lots to choose from and chairs for every budget.

Good luck and be sure to have fun!

judsonp

02-21-07, 12:33 PM

Anything in particular that drew you to these cans? I need to start to figure that out soon. I'll check that site for prices, too. . .

Looking good, too!

Dave,

I liked how easy they were to install. The Halo website had lots of documentation with good pictures and diagrams. They had a wide variety of sizes and styles and I also liked the trims that they had available. Not to mention that they were very reasonably priced.

Judson

eq_shadimar

02-21-07, 12:38 PM

Great progress on yet another Cinemascope theater! Love seeing all these 2.35(7) theaters pop up. Keep the pictures rolling.

Laters,
Jeff

judsonp

02-21-07, 12:58 PM

Great progress on yet another Cinemascope theater! Love seeing all these 2.35(7) theaters pop up. Keep the pictures rolling.

Laters,
Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for the kind words. I can't imagine not doing a scope screen. As soon as I saw one I was hooked.

By the way your room looks great too!

Judson

heney

02-22-07, 09:08 AM

Heney,

Everything starts going really fast once you jump in. I was the same way as you and stayed in the planning phase for a long time. I wanted to be sure I had everything ironed out before go time.

Yeah it seems like I've been planning this out since the dawn of time.

Thanks for all the info, I'll probably be doing all DIY (limited budget) so I'll definitly be keeping a close eye on the thread.

judsonp

02-22-07, 09:41 AM

Heney,

If you haven't already, check out Chinadog's Blazing Ridge construction thread. He took lots of pictures and explained everything. I learned LOTS from him.

Judson

judsonp

02-25-07, 02:28 PM

Well, back to it today. I was able to get some time in between the baby's nap to do some pounding and sawing so I ran and got some 2x4's and started framing in the snack bar.
It is 4 feet wide about 7 feet tall and 17 inches deep. I will eventually build out some built in cabinets with a counter top for drinks, popcorn, whatever.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/snackbar003.jpg

I only have the top to finish but I need to wait until my light cans arrive to figure out the spacing. Glad this is almost done.

judsonp

03-07-07, 03:54 PM

I picked up a rack online. I wasn't planning on getting a full rack instead just getting the rails but got a great price on it so I figured what the heck!
It is a Middle Atlantic Slim5 29 space rack.

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-56251121628385_1933_560840

Now I have to figure out how and where I am going to install it. I am leaning towards the back corner opposite the snack bar recessed into the wall as I have a utility area on the other side. This would give me full access to the back of it. The only issue is this will be right next to the last chair in the second row.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Theater2003.jpg

You can see the white wall space on the left side of the picture right next to the outlet.

I guess it gives a new meaning to "cheap seats". More on this later...

judsonp

03-12-07, 12:15 PM

I was able to spend a little time in the theater this weekend. My Sunday was pretty much ruined because of the time change. I am a Project Manager working on a project that requires interfacing to medical equipment. The whole thing took a dive at 2 am. I spent most of the day on the phone trying to organize resources to get it fixed. My rant is done, now on to a few pictures.

I have one more outlet to wire up then the electrical in the theater will be done. I have to tie everything into the panel but that should be pretty quick.

I got 3 3" Halo cans for over the screen, and two more for in the snack cove. Those things are really small. I think it will look pretty cool with the adjustable gimbal trims. I have to decide on brushed silver or black trims for the screen wash lights. The screen wall will be located on the double joist you can see in the picture. This will put the cans about 8 inches from the screen. The adjustable trims will allow me to direct the beam for the proper effect.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/newest025.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/newest024.jpg

Here are the trims
http://site.electricsuppliesonline.com/images/halo-lighting/3009SNBB.jpg
http://site.electricsuppliesonline.com/images/halo-lighting/3009BKBB.jpg

I am planning to use the brushed trims on the 6 cans over the seating area. Those coupled with brushed aluminum accents for the door knob, and hardware on the cabinets in the snack bar should be pretty cool.

These things are pretty cool. I used them where my 4 gang box is going. I actually have all 4 wires in there but I didn't snap a picture of it.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/newest005.jpg

I also got my rack on Saturday. They sent me the 43u rails instead of the 29u rails I ordered so I have to send them back for the correct ones.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/newest023.jpg

And here are the Leviton 5380 in wall surge protectors. I will be pulling all my low voltage stuff to the other box. There are two of these on the screen wall.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/newest009.jpg

That's it for now. I might be able to get back down there today and wire up the panel. Let there be light!

judsonp

03-13-07, 09:29 AM

Here are the cans in the snack bar, also a couple electrical outlets and a place for Cat5 and phone.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical001.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical003.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical002.jpg

Here is the box for the Lutron Spacer System

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical004.jpg

I ran all my electrical to a box in the ceiling on the utility side just outside of the theater, tied everything in and then ran the two circuits to the panel on the other end of the basement.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical006.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical009.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electrical007.jpg

I still need to tie the two circuits into the panel.

Next up:
Conduit for projector
Speaker cable runs
cold air return

tlogan6797

03-13-07, 09:40 AM

judsonp -

Looks like really nice work so far. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you don't say if you pulled permits. How are you finishing the ceiling? My understanding of the code is that you can't have inaccessible junction boxes. I'm not suire if a suspeneded ceiling covering a junction box counts or not, but you definately won't be able to drywall over that box if you are getting inspected.

Just hate to see you have to rip out all that good work.

Tom

judsonp

03-13-07, 09:50 AM

Tom,
Good eye! I pulled all the wire to the utility side of the basement. I will drywall the theater but the utility side will just be open joists - thus access to the box.

tlogan6797

03-13-07, 04:21 PM

Good eye!
That's what they used tell me when I didn't swing at a pitch in Little League!

I just think I'm going to have to do the same thing, so it caught my eye.

Tom

judsonp

03-15-07, 08:42 AM

OK, finally got around to getting the Lutron Spacer System switches in place. Not the best pic, but it is one of the more exciting things I've done so far.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/spacersystemswitches005.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/spacersystemswitches001.jpg

3 zones and a master controller. I was going to hide the rocker switches and just put the master controller in the theater but I am such a geek I like the lights and the "wow" factor.

judsonp

03-19-07, 11:48 AM

Things are rolling pretty good now. I got all my electrical tied into the panel. 2 new circuits, a 20a and a 15a. With that I now have light in the theater. I also started playing with my Lutron Spacer System. I connected 3 zones with a master controller. All I can say is "wow" very very cool. It works exactly like I want to.

Here are the 3 cans over the screen with 50w GU10 bulbs. They are very bright white light.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/lightingandconduit007.jpg

Here is a shot with the lights down. I haven't picked up bulbs for the main cans so there are regular bulbs in there. This really is a boring shot but hey...

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/lightingandconduit005.jpg

Snack bar

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/lightingandconduit004.jpg

I also got my conduit run to my projector area. It is Carlon 2" conduit. It runs about 9 feet to where the equipment rack will be. I will finish it off with a bulk wire face plate connected to that low voltage box.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/lightingandconduit001.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/lightingandconduit002.jpg

The Belden speaker wire is from Bluejeans. And my subwoofer cables from Monoprice. This week I should be able to get my speaker wires run.

judsonp

03-19-07, 11:52 AM

Darn, I just realized that the way that my low voltage box is fixed it will cause the bulk cable outlet to be positioned to the sides of the room not facing the projector. I think I will pull that one out and add a carlon mud ring after the drywall. This will allow a North South orientation for the wall plate.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/lightingandconduit002.jpg

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/images/VAN-WPBW2B-BK.jpg

Here is what I need:

http://www.hometech.com/techwire/cn-sc100rr.jpg

Not a huge deal I guess....

eq_shadimar

03-21-07, 01:26 PM

Great progress! Nice to see it all coming together.

Laters,
Jeff

judsonp

03-22-07, 08:23 AM

Great progress! Nice to see it all coming together.

Laters,
Jeff

It is moving a little slow right now, but at least I still have forward progress. Thanks for the compliment!

That shot of Vader with the lights out in your thread is awesome!

reaper

03-22-07, 09:45 AM

I love all the pictures in this thread. Just popped in for a peak today and was immediately hooked upon seeing all the images. Keep em coming. Looks like a cool project.

judsonp

03-22-07, 09:57 AM

Thanks Joe! I figure I owe it to all the people here that use pictures to understand how things work. There are all of those that posted all those pictures for me. Your thread was one of them...
The saying goes "a picture is worth 1000 words".

Hope your enjoying your theater!
Judson

oman321

03-22-07, 10:19 AM

judsonp

03-22-07, 10:51 AM

Nice work,

Things seem to be moving along nicely. I used a couple of those low voltage existing work trims. They work pretty well, depending on the amount cabling your putting through will sometimes cause one of the sides without the wing to push out a bit. The solution is to use 1/8th butterfly toggle anchors to pull nice and tight against the sheetrock. The plates have little holes at each corner that you can utilize.

Hmmm, thanks for the tip. I will have to look at that. I wonder if I could just buy 2 trims and steal the butterfly wings off of one so I would have one at each corner.

Anyway, thanks again!

judsonp

03-26-07, 09:57 AM

I ran 400 feet of Belden 5000u speaker cable that I picked up from Bluejeanscable. I ended up about 40 feet short so I ordered a little more. I will get some pictures up as soon as I get them off the camera.

I need to get a new elbow for the HVAC line running across the ceiling, and start on the opening for the rack. I think I am about ready to start on the insulation.

Tboy555

03-29-07, 12:44 PM

Nice looking theater!

I am subscribing to the thread. I always like to see theaters built in existing home rather than new construction. It just doesen't seem right to start a build without a little demo first!! ;)

Also in Ohio, and will be using an IN 72 with my htpc. I'd like to build an anamorphic lens as well!!

Tboy

judsonp

03-29-07, 01:23 PM

dc_pilgrim

03-29-07, 03:00 PM

How did that rack work out? I got outbid on one, but am leaning towards rails instead. . .

judsonp

03-29-07, 03:55 PM

How did that rack work out? I got outbid on one, but am leaning towards rails instead. . .

Well, they shipped me the wrong rails. I got the 43u rails instead of the 29u rails. I don't have the new ones to play around with it yet. I think it will work out fine as I plan to put a Cisco switch and my broadband router on the back rails but I think I would be just as happy with rails only.
If you haven't already, check out Nineteeninch.com (http://www.nineteeninch.com/). I will probably buy my shelves and accessories from them.

Judson

Max Lomax

03-29-07, 04:17 PM

dc_pilgrim

03-29-07, 05:44 PM

I have been on that site. Prices were pretty nice. Cobbled together this list, but not really sure if I am picking the right stuff. I'll have to post the list in one of the rack threads and have people let me know if I am on the right track.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/dc_pilgrim/rack.jpg

Max Lomax

03-29-07, 07:04 PM

What are you putting on all those 1U shelves? If I were you I would get the shelves that are the right height for your specific pieces of equipment, that way you can add the nice custom faceplates down the road without having to order new shelves. Plus you won't have gaps on the front of your rack rails between your shelf ears.

You might want to keep a couple extra packs of rack screws on hand as well, they are soft and it's easy to strip out the heads. Use a low torque setting if you you are using a drill to screw them in. They really only need to be hand tight.

Racktools is free software from M.A. and it will help you design and see what your rack will look like, plus spit out a purchase order for you.

dc_pilgrim

03-29-07, 09:51 PM

judsonp

03-30-07, 02:04 PM

You could have just cut the rails down to the size you needed tbh. A jigsaw with a metal blade will go through rack rails like a hot knife through butter. Then a quick file to knock off the edges and a little black sharpie to touch up and you are golden. 5-10 min job.

When ordering racks I always get the largest rails possible and cut them to fit once things are done being built. It costs the same and has saved me aggravation and time on numerous installs.

I did consider cutting the rails down to size but since I paid for something that they didn't deliver I figured that they should make it right. I will be doing the rack retrofit as there is already a wall there so planning wise it shouldn't be a big deal. However, thanks for the tip - in case I get to the point where I am ready to install it and want to cut it down even further.

judsonp

03-30-07, 02:05 PM

Thanks Max - was thinking dvd player playstation, that kind of thing. I wasn't sure if there was an advantage to getting larger shelves, or if the benefit was tied to their weight capacity. Maybe I'll stick to rails and the drawer or blanks (to space it to the width) for the first order.

Sorry about the hijack Judson.

no problem Dave. Questions I would ask anyway so your saving me a few key strokes.
I downloaded the racktools program and it was very helpful. It gives you that "visual" to see how things will fit.

Let us know what you end up with as I haven't even considered shelves yet.

judsonp

04-03-07, 10:47 AM

Speaker wiring is done. I have been dealing with Bluejeanscable. I can say that they are amazing. Jeff provides first rate customer service and the products they offer are good quality. I HIGHLY recommend.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/speakerwireandinsulation006.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/speakerwireandinsulation003.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/speakerwireandinsulation002.jpg

I wanted to get a jump on the insulation so I borrowed the "family" Suburban and headed for Big Orange. They are offering a $100 gift card on insulation purchases over $300. Bonus... Plus, my wife works at Owens Corning so there will be another "rebate".

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/speakerwireandinsulation007.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/speakerwireandinsulation008.jpg

Looks like I have a helper... don't be fooled he will only supervise and bark orders.

I should point out that I ended up buying the mini rolls of R-13 because it came in 1 continous 32' long piece. Since my walls are 7'3" I would be cutting off around 10" of insulation per batt. So this should work out better. I also noticed the mini rolls are $.27 per foot vs. the $.37 per foot of the batt.

I also grabbed an electric stapler which should help with this part of the project plus since I am doing fabric on the walls it will help again then.

http://images.lowes.com/product/076174/076174058581.jpg

Ok, I guess it's time to get to work.

brandonnash

04-03-07, 07:39 PM

Guessing and hoping you're a Notre Dame fan.

judsonp

04-04-07, 08:09 AM

Guessing and hoping you're a Notre Dame fan.

Go Irish!!!

brandonnash

04-04-07, 05:42 PM

Good thing. Eager to see your theater completed. Hoping to make it up to see some Irish games this year. Still haven't made that pilgrimage.

judsonp

04-05-07, 10:17 AM

Good thing. Eager to see your theater completed. Hoping to make it up to see some Irish games this year. Still haven't made that pilgrimage.

Indeed! I am eager to see a Notre Dame game in that "completed" theater! If you haven't been to an ND home game it is a must!

nuczn

04-05-07, 02:32 PM

Hey i replied on my page but thought i would do it here to.. i clicked on your link after i posted.. I read your whole page last night great progress so far your attention to details is apparent in even your wireing keep that strong through the build and dont compromise it will be worth it

any way heres the info

the "ir blaster i wired for comes with specific lutron spacer master controlers and only require a 14-2 wire from the master controller box to each blaster. It adds an additional 5 zones to the system for a total of 10. In this application the master controller needs to be in its own box. I then can control them via RF with the help of a different kind of IR blaster which gets us back to i think what you are refering to.

i found this online by Jay Mitchosky on the Home theater forum

Ok so here is the deal if you want to control your master controller via RF

The inside of a Lutron Spacer wall mounted Remote Control Master. This is what you see when you remove the front panel. The little black square in the bottom quarter (labelled component U5) is the IR sensor. It receives IR signals from the transparent window on the fourth scene button. Because of its poor reception I have added a dual head IR emitter that is connected via extension cable to a Home Theater Master MRF-300 radio frequency base station. Because of the location of the Spacer sensor you cannot simply attach an emitter to the back. Even though the case is clear it is obscured by a couple of circuit boards. Attaching to the sides will not work as the gang box allows little room between. Only option is to place the emitter(s) inside. It's a simple matter of loosening a couple of screws. I happened to have some dual-head emitters kicking around so I'm able to flank the sensor.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/main.jpg

there is no need for cat 5 wire at all you wire these http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8174.gif directly from you ir emitter box directly into the junction box.

if your talkin straight IR there is no need to do anything its already built in to the Spacer system

judsonp

04-05-07, 03:56 PM

Hey i replied on my page but thought i would do it here to.. i clicked on your link after i posted.. I read your whole page last night great progress so far your attention to details is apparent in even your wiring keep that strong through the build and dont compromise it will be worth it

any way heres the info

the "ir blaster i wired for comes with specific lutron spacer master controlers and only require a 14-2 wire from the master controller box to each blaster. It adds an additional 5 zones to the system for a total of 10. In this application the master controller needs to be in its own box. I then can control them via RF with the help of a different kind of IR blaster which gets us back to i think what you are refering to.

i found this online by Jay Mitchosky on the Home theater forum

Ok so here is the deal if you want to control your master controller via RF

The inside of a Lutron Spacer wall mounted Remote Control Master. This is what you see when you remove the front panel. The little black square in the bottom quarter (labelled component U5) is the IR sensor. It receives IR signals from the transparent window on the fourth scene button. Because of its poor reception I have added a dual head IR emitter that is connected via extension cable to a Home Theater Master MRF-300 radio frequency base station. Because of the location of the Spacer sensor you cannot simply attach an emitter to the back. Even though the case is clear it is obscured by a couple of circuit boards. Attaching to the sides will not work as the gang box allows little room between. Only option is to place the emitter(s) inside. It's a simple matter of loosening a couple of screws. I happened to have some dual-head emitters kicking around so I'm able to flank the sensor.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/main.jpg

there is no need for cat 5 wire at all you wire these http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8174.gif directly from you ir emitter box directly into the junction box.

if your talkin straight IR there is no need to do anything its already built in to the Spacer system

nuczn,

that's great info, thank you! Here is the kicker. I really want to use IR to control my spacer system, and I can because as Jay points out it is already in there. The problem I have is that the master controller is behind me and I don't want to have to shoot over my shoulder (how lazy is that ;) ). You must have the SPS-5WCR master controller. Mine is the SPS-5WC which has to be in the same box as the other rockers.

I thought if I could control the lights from the same place I control my av equipment I could create scenes from a universal remote - dim lights on play dvd, etc. I am using Media Center so I think I should be able to integrate something.

I think by following Jay's instructions I should be able to do what I want to do. I am getting close to drywall which means I have to have my wires in the wall before that starts up.

Thanks,
Judson

nuczn

04-05-07, 07:19 PM

ok here is another alternative as well if your just using IR and stuf is out of sight line. i was originally going to do this, even wired for it but went RF(you never have to point it at anything)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8132big.jpg
this is an ir reciever that goes in a J box wired from ir block with phone wire.

heres a diagramhttp://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8132side2big.gif

just another option hope all of this helps

judsonp

04-05-07, 09:34 PM

nuczn,

Dude, thanks for all your help! That was what I was thinking of doing. I looked at the Buffalo electronics version. I hadn't seen the version that fits in a J-box before. That is really cool. If I can hook my lights to that I am set.

Judson

judsonp

04-05-07, 10:18 PM

I am rolling pretty good on my insulation. I got the front wall done and a good portion of the left wall and a few batts on the right wall. You can see where I left a space for my gas and water meter. I will build removable panels when I do the fabric for the walls... in theory this will work! I am dreading the ceiling a bit, but at least I am moving in the right direction.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Insulationinstallation014.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Insulationinstallation011.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Insulationinstallation013.jpg

Since I am generally like a kid in a candy store when it comes to new stuff I couldn't resist putting my rack together.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Insulationinstallation004.jpg

As a side note, I have decided to try my hand a building my own cables. I am starting with speaker cable as it should be the easiest. 3 - 6 foot cables. One for each of my LCR. Why? I don't know, it sounds fun!

Canare Locking Banana Plugs
Canare 4S11 "Star-Quad" Wire
Techflex nylon braiding
heat shrink

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Insulationinstallation001.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Insulationinstallation002.jpg

OK, time to go rinse off this insulation...

judsonp

04-08-07, 09:59 PM

OK, so I got a little more insulation done this weekend. I can say I don't envy people that do this full time. By the end of the day I was covered with fiberglass.

Back wall done. I pre-wired for 7.1 so I did take a few pictures of wire in the wall back there.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation005.jpg

Because I had so much clutter in the ceilings I used 3 layers of R-13. I peeled the paper off the first two layers and used the 3rd layer to staple to the joists. Tiring work but it is filling the cavity perfectly. It is already much quieter in there.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation006.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation008.jpg

Three layers cut-away

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation009.jpg

Two layers cut-away

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation010.jpg

There is the 3 inches for the light cans. No IC cans here.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation011.jpg

About 40% of the ceiling done

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/MoreInsulation008.jpg

Also, I finished one of my speaker cables. It took about 30 minutes to make. I will make two more to complete the fronts. I am also thinking about trying my hand at RCA cables.
It turned out pretty nice with the braiding on it. Eat your heart out Monster Cable!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Speakercables007.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Speakercables002.jpg

Kevin_Wadsworth

04-08-07, 10:23 PM

Out of curiosity, why did you go with non-IC cans? I actually bought IC cans for an area that I won't be using insulation because they were cheaper.

dc_pilgrim

04-09-07, 08:51 AM

judsonp

04-09-07, 09:13 AM

Out of curiosity, why did you go with non-IC cans? I actually bought IC cans for an area that I won't be using insulation because they were cheaper.

Kevin,

I went back and looked and now I am confused. Here is what is listed for the cans I bought:

Halo H5ICAT 5 inch Line Voltage IC Air Tight Recessed Lighting Housing

Thermally protected housing can be used in insulated or uninsulated ceilings. When installed in a ceiling with insulation, 3" air space is required around fixture. A metric version (H5TM) is available for use in Canada Height 7 1/8" (181mm)

Housing Features

# All housings are thermally protected.
# Socket snaps into trim for consistent lamp positioning.
# Junction box is approved for through branch circuit wiring and has seven 1/2" knockouts with true pry-out slots.
# Four Romex pryouts with integral strain relief simplify Romex installation.
# Pre-installed, captive bar hangers allow housing to be positioned at any point within a 24" joist span. Score lines provided for easy field shortening for 12" joists. Unique arrowhead design provides “nailess” installation. Bar hangers can be repositioned 90° without tools on plaster frame. Hangers fit onto T-bar spline for quick alignment and can be permanently secured with optional TB-7 T-bar clips.

Installation Features

# 7 1/2" height allows use in 2x8 construction.
# Housing adjusts for ceilings up to 1 1/2" thick.
# Shipping insert protects socket from paint overspray.

Listings

# UL Damp Location
# UL Feed Through
# CSA Certified
# IP Rated

Basically it says it is safe for IC but also says you must leave 3"? Might have to call Halo on this one.

judsonp

04-09-07, 09:54 AM

Judson - are you going for wall plates for your speaker wires? All of them or just LCR?

Just curious since I need to figure that out ASAP myself. I was debating between direct runs (and/or conduit), wall plates, etc. Might only do that for the front 3. Saw that article on BJC that suggests that fears of multiple connection points are overblown.

Dave,

I am using wall plates for my LCR. I have 2 gang decora wall plates that have the in wall surge protectors on one side and the keystone jacks on the other. I will snap a couple pictures for you tonight. For the surrounds, the backs are pre wire and the sides will be in walls. For those I am just going to go direct to the speaker. I think I will go direct to the receiver on the rack side. I can imagine if you have loads of breaks in your speaker wire it might make a difference but for a couple I'm not too worried about it.

Judson

judsonp

04-11-07, 08:33 PM

Judson - are you going for wall plates for your speaker wires? All of them or just LCR?

Just curious since I need to figure that out ASAP myself. I was debating between direct runs (and/or conduit), wall plates, etc. Might only do that for the front 3. Saw that article on BJC that suggests that fears of multiple connection points are overblown.

Dave,

Here is that picture. This is the dual gang box setup for the Left and Right. Two sets of speaker wires - call them A and B, and an RCA jack for my subs. I have Boston VR965 towers which have the subs built in so that is the reason for two outlets and the sub jack. The center channel just has the A and B speaker connections.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/wallplates006.jpg

Judson

Digital Man

04-11-07, 08:40 PM

Basically it says it is safe for IC but also says you must leave 3"? Might have to call Halo on this one.

Wow...that's a really good question. I installed those exact same cans and since they are IC (Insulation Contact?) I put the insulation all around them.

Guy

judsonp

04-11-07, 08:47 PM

Wow...that's a really good question. I installed those exact same cans and since they are IC (Insulation Contact?) I put the insulation all around them.

Guy

Guy,

Thanks for the reminder. I looked on the Halo site and this is what I came across on the H5ICAT cans:

The Halo H5 series utilizes a 5" aperture designed to
accommodate smaller sized PAR20 and PAR30 halogen lamps.
The wide variety of trims available allows a number of different
lighting effects to be created with one basic housing. The H5ICAT
is designed for use in insulated ceiling applications and may be
completely covered in insulation. This is an AIR-TITE™ housing
and it meets restricted air flow requirements.

So I guess you don't have anything to worry about and I can go back and fill in a bunch of insulation.

theritz

04-11-07, 10:15 PM

That's a very comprehensive build underway, cool cables....

I know that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but looking at the first pictures in your thread I couldn't help wondering........................

Did you buy your house from Al Bundy ? :eek:

S.

judsonp

04-12-07, 08:15 AM

dc_pilgrim

04-12-07, 08:57 AM

nuczn

04-12-07, 01:14 PM

judsonp

04-12-07, 01:33 PM

Thanks for the pic Judson. I am running my speaker and video wires in the next day or three (drywallers come on Monday), so I need to decide on whether to wall plate it or not. I got 50' of 2" conduit in from smarthome, so I also need to decide whether to run that empty or with the cables in it for protection. Decisions, decisions. I saw those red clip things you used at HD, and grabbed those. Cheapest HD trip in a while (clips and cable staples).

Dave,

Those little red cable organizers are great. I used them for both low and line voltage.

Here's a thought. You could install your j boxes for the cable, hook your conduit up to them with string inside and let them drywall around the boxes. If you decide to terminate the cable use the plates. If you decide not to they make those bulk cable plates that would allow a clean look but without having to break the cable at the wall.

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/images/VAN-WPBW2B-BK.jpg

judsonp

04-12-07, 01:38 PM

you may run into issues with you speaker wire in the same J box as your outlets. At least here in WA you cant do it code wise but not only that the current from your outlet can interfere with your speaker cable. while its early you may want to consider making 2 boxes side by side.

I was concerned about doing this and had pretty much decided not to but I posted the question and felt that it wouldn't be a problem with the way that I wired for the high and low voltage stuff. I used the Carlon boxes for this application specifically so it isn't against code.

http://www.asihome.com/images/car-sc200dv.jpg

Link to original thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=805930)

So did you have a chance to repaint your room yet? I heard about your cabinet dilemma so I am sure you are focused on that.

judsonp

04-13-07, 09:28 AM

Well, I have run into a problem. I attached a sill plate to the top of the back wall so I have something to nail the drywall on the ceiling to. The problem is the joists aren't level so in some places the sill plate is 1/2 inch lower than the bottom of the joist. so I am stumped as to what to do. Do they make drywall shims, or should I use furring strips on the whole ceiling to make sure it is all level? It doesn't have to be perfect but I am thinking that an uneven surface painted a dark color is going to look really terrible.
Here is a picture:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/ceiling001-1.jpg

You can see the thin red line that represents were the bottom of the drywall would hit the sill. I can re-do the sill but it is really tight quarters and I have most of my electrical running through there.

Help!!!!

drin

04-13-07, 09:50 AM

Do they make drywall shims, or should I use furring strips on the whole ceiling to make sure it is all level?!

Yes, you should. Use 1/2" plywood and shim the entire joist area to make sure it's level with the bottom of your top plate.

We were lucky - our joists were (worst case) 1/8" out. Anything more and we would have had to fir...

-drin

judsonp

04-13-07, 09:57 AM

Yes, you should. Use 1/2" plywood and shim the entire joist area to make sure it's level with the bottom of your top plate.

We were lucky - our joists were (worst case) 1/8" out. Anything more and we would have had to fir...

-drin

Not too familiar with this. Are you aware of any pictures of this before drywall? I am guessing that I need to take a 1/2" sheet and cut it in strips? Apply them parallel to the joists or perpendicular?

rmcveigh

04-13-07, 01:26 PM

Not too familiar with this. Are you aware of any pictures of this before drywall? I am guessing that I need to take a 1/2" sheet and cut it in strips? Apply them parallel to the joists or perpendicular?

I would cut the 1/2" sheet into strips and apply them parallel to the joists. I had to do something similar in my basement construction where a wall was built and the builder/inspector added a big "DO NOT REMOVE" marker to some framing which holds up a doorway that's built under my main A/C trunk lines. The wall in the picture below is the original 2x4 wall for the stairs and I furred out the entire wall with 2x2's to accommodate the extra width for the support 2x4 shown. This picture isn't the greatest, but essentially I've just nailed in the 2x2 furring strips right on top of the existing 2x4 framing.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/248/454784589_f8030b0ea8_o.jpg

-Ryan

judsonp

04-13-07, 01:36 PM

Thanks Ryan! That makes sense.

I don't think I will have to do all of them, but the last 3-4 towards my back wall should make it level.

nuczn

04-13-07, 07:47 PM

i decided to wait to paint final coats until i have all the trim work installed due to dust marks and scratches etc. Im going to paint those areas around moulding with the flat so i dont have to cut in with paint so much. Yeah focused on the riser dilemma but still pluggin away got my second coat of poly on my trim!

good choice with the boxes also!

P.S. where did you get those nice speaker J-box terminals in black?

nuczn

04-13-07, 07:51 PM

by the way if after you put on the furring strip its still not right, home depot sells drywall shims which are about an 1/8 in thick by 3 feet by 1 1/2. I uses them all the time in showers for truing up un even studs place your level across the joists and add shims where needed. I had to do it in my ceiling also.

judsonp

04-14-07, 12:26 PM

P.S. where did you get those nice speaker J-box terminals in black?

I got most of that stuff at laner.com. I got a deal on the surge protected outlets on a site called Fruit Ridge tools but only came in brown so it is all actually brown. Since it is all going to be behind the screen wall I figured brown was close enough.

Glad to hear your still plugging away...

judsonp

04-14-07, 12:28 PM

judsonp

04-17-07, 10:29 AM

Instead of trying to put furring strips on all the joists I shimmed the back board up 1/2" where it was off. Now everthing is level. I will still have to shim a few spots when I start putting drywall on the ceiling, but at least now I have a reasonably flat surface to work with.

I didn't work on the theater at all this weekend as we took our son to a local indoor water park. As a side note, I took a flow-rider lesson (think indoor surfing). It was an 1 1/4 hours and is supposed to have 15 people. Well, I was the only one for the first 1/2 hour and then only 2 more showed after that. I don't think there is a muscle in my body that doesn't hurt. What a blast.

I did have a little time to think about the theater name, and here is what I came up with.

"Cinema at the Glen". We live on Oak Glen Drive so it seemed fitting.

<Edited for poor grammar> Check back soon for a picture that has my theater name spelled correctly! (See below)

Dr Serenity

04-17-07, 04:21 PM

[QUOTE=judsonp] (snip)

I did have a little time to think about the theater name, and here is what I came up with.

"Cinema at the Glen". We live on Oak Glen Drive so it seemed fitting.

^^^^^

Cinema at THE THE Glen??? :p

mgkdragn

04-17-07, 06:20 PM

judsonp

04-17-07, 07:42 PM

judsonp

04-17-07, 08:09 PM

After reading thru your thread, it reminded me so much of my own project...link below

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=733488

You're doing a great job and it seems to be coming along pretty quickly. It took me probably 6 months and I'm still tweaking and improving this and that.

It's always fun to watch these things unfold...when I posted my "journey" I did it all in one shot, but wish not I had kept it as an in progress thread.

That's a great logo...may I ask how it's done..?? Would love to have something like that as an intro screen on my PJ...

thanks and I enjoyed the thread... Uncle Willie

Willie,

Thanks for the kind words! You thread was a great read and I can say I think your theater turned out great. I too am on a pretty tight budget but believe that you can do a lot if you just take the time to be creative. You did that and it shows in your workmanship.

As far as the screen logo... this thread will tell you everything you need to know - Fox Style Theater Logo (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=715166)

Good Luck!

Judson

Dr Serenity

04-18-07, 12:23 AM

[QUOTE=Dr Serenity]

How embarrassing is that? :confused:

Don't worry...I just thought it rather funny :) . That's a great logo, and a great job on the theater with a limited time and budget. Best of luck!

judsonp

04-18-07, 01:15 PM

Let's try this again! This time with out the grammar issues...

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/CATG.jpg

judsonp

04-18-07, 03:42 PM

I did a couple sketches in google sketchup - nothing like Reaper does of course ;)

I am still thinking about colors but really like the grey/black/graphite theme. I am thinking about doing black from 3' up and grey above that. But go back to this all grey too. Open to suggestions of course.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/theatermock_front.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/theatermock_backright.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/theatermock_backleft.jpg

Thanks for looking!

eq_shadimar

04-18-07, 04:16 PM

Nice progress that you are making with your theater. You are getting closer to being able to see Darth Vader on your own screen!

Laters,
Jeff

judsonp

04-18-07, 04:32 PM

Nice progress that you are making with your theater. You are getting closer to being able to see Darth Vader on your own screen!

Laters,
Jeff

I will soon be entering the "drywall-zone", or the "drywall-triangle". The weather is changing and my honey-do list for outdoors is growing so things will probably move a little slower. Thanks for the adda-boy, I look forward to seeing Vader, especially if it looks half as good as that shot in your thread!

Judson

Cathan

04-18-07, 04:55 PM

Spring time honey-do lists stink. Maybe make a new marquee? Call it "Gardening at the the Glen". ;)

chinaclipper

04-18-07, 05:15 PM

judsonp

04-19-07, 08:39 AM

...with the drywall zone! It seems as much as I'd like to leave it forever, I still have to come back!

I am almost done with my equipment room drywall, seems like I've put about 21 coats of mud on the darn thing.... oh well!

Get 'er done, as they say, and as you observed, our set ups look remarkably similar, even down to the google drawings you did!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

I can't say that I am dreading it, but I know that it will be a step that I don't enjoy as much as I have some of the others.

Glad to hear that you are almost done with the drywall. Now get back to work so I can get an idea of what my theater will look like when yours is done. :D

Judson

chinaclipper

05-14-07, 11:49 AM

Judson:
What's the latest?
How is the build coming around?
Let us know...

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

hlomax

05-14-07, 04:37 PM

Things are looking good... Hope to be put wires in my own theater soon...
keep up the good work.. and plenty of pictures!!!

max

judsonp

05-17-07, 02:21 PM

I am in complete stop mode! In fact I haven't even been out here to check out what everyone else has been up to.
My yard has consumed me as has my job. I am a project manager and it is crunch time.
I can only say I hope to get back to this in the next month or so, but we will see.

Judson

McCall

05-17-07, 02:33 PM

"gotta love those Crunch Times!"

judsonp

05-17-07, 02:39 PM

"gotta love those Crunch Times!"

yeah, it seems that more and more of the time is "crunch time"!

SatelliteGuy

05-18-07, 12:53 PM

Excellent job! Please keep the pictures coming.

I hope the progress on my theater goes this well.

judsonp

05-30-07, 01:27 PM

Excellent job! Please keep the pictures coming.

I hope the progress on my theater goes this well.

Thanks for the kind words SatelliteGuy. Unfortunately I don't have anything new to take a picture of. The project is on Hiatus until after vacation (Julyish). I am stalling a little bit as I get caught up on the honey-do's.

judsonp

06-26-07, 02:58 PM

Ok, I am going to try to revive this thread as it seems to be getting a little dusty. I am looking for a needy friend to help me get a stack of drywall home. Also, while I was at Lowe's picking up some other odds and ends I saw a sale on - of all things, door knobs. I got a Kwikset maximum security lever in satin nickel, regular price $52 - on sale for $15.
All I need now is a door...

judsonp

07-02-07, 11:04 AM

Well, it's time to get back to work on the theater. After about 2 hours and some very gracious help (wife, brother-in-law, and sister-in-law) there is a stack of 37 sheets of drywall in the basement.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall003.jpg

I also got a 1 1/2" thick piece of foam board for behind the snack bar. Trimmed it to size and wedged it in between the studs.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall009.jpg

Here is a shot of the first two sheets in place. These are just to get the wall the same thickness as the existing drywall. I will cover this whole wall with another layer of drywall.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall005.jpg

judsonp

07-09-07, 09:13 AM

Despite the holiday weekend (and the fight with traffic) I still managed to work in the basement for a little while.
I finished the drywall for the snack cove in the theater. I haven't decided what is going to go in there yet. Most likely some cabinets for storage and a countertop for snacks and drinks. I have a sheet of plywood to cover up the base.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall011.jpg

I also added the top part of my cold air return. This won't be anything fancy and since I am not too concerned about keeping sound in I won't go out of my way to do anything else to this. (*Edit* I will elbow up to the ceiling where there is an existing return)
I got two sheets of drywall up in the laundry room - excuse the mess. I have to finish the bottom sheets.
Also I have to decide what I am going to do about my rack. I have a spot to mount it in the wall but I don't know if this is what I am going to do.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall015.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall018.jpg

This is the spot for the rack
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall022.jpg

Improvolone

07-09-07, 10:11 AM

judsonp

07-09-07, 10:36 AM

As for colors, I totally understand getting into the black and gray color scheme, but from a design point of view, it's never worked for me. I personally feel there should be some balance of form and fucntion, not neccecarily sacrifice one for the other.

We have been kicking around the idea of using more color, just not sure how. I am a little restricted because we are going to use Dazian fabric for the walls. The GOM is just too expensive. If you have any suggestions let me know.

judsonp

07-11-07, 10:38 PM

So I am to the point where I am starting to look at cutting the hole for the rack. I am having second thoughts that I am opening up a wall that connects to the laundry room and the utility room. Furnace, washer, dryer, dehumidifier, etc. This is a pretty noisy area. I don't have to keep the sound out - I am not using green glue or any techniques that will keep the sound out, but cutting a hole in the wall and mounting my equipment there is just asking for all that noise to flow through.
I can probably put a door on the rack but I can't enclose it on the backside.

Anyone else been through this? I have a 5-29 MA rack that will be less than half full at the completion of the theater. It will sit in the back corner in-line with second row of seats.

judsonp

07-12-07, 12:04 PM

Rutgar

07-12-07, 01:14 PM

What an odd place for a gas meter. I've never seen one 'inside' of a house. Is it even code? How in hell does the gas company even read this?

judsonp

07-12-07, 01:19 PM

What an odd place for a gas meter. I've never seen one 'inside' of a house. Is it even code? How in hell does the gas company even read this?

It's code as far as I know. The house was built in 1964, that's what they must have done in the day.

As for reading the meter. That's kind of funny. We got a shut off notice a month ago because it hadn't been read in 17 months. They always came during the day when no one was home. They came and read it and installed an infrared reader so they can read it from outside the house. The end result - $820 credit.

dsully444

07-12-07, 01:31 PM

judsonp

07-12-07, 01:36 PM

I don't know if I overlooked it in the thread, but what kind of speaker cable did you use and where from? I myself am putting a theater in but will be running the cable through the attic as the speakers will be in Ceiling. I have been eyeing the Deftech UIW RCSII for LCR and RSSII for Surrounds.

I used the Blue Jeans Cable 5000UE. BJC is great, shipping is quick and reasonable and the cable is very nice for the price. Here is an article that might help you get the right cable - Speaker Cable (http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/inwallrating.htm)

dsully444

07-12-07, 02:33 PM

Thanks for the quick response, appreciate it. By the way great transformation of that basement.

Rutgar

07-12-07, 03:07 PM

It's code as far as I know. The house was built in 1964, that's what they must have done in the day.

As for reading the meter. That's kind of funny. We got a shut off notice a month ago because it hadn't been read in 17 months. They always came during the day when no one was home. They came and read it and installed an infrared reader so they can read it from outside the house. The end result - $820 credit.

Don't you just love the way utility companies 'guesstimate' your usage? And it's always in their favor!

judsonp

07-15-07, 12:56 PM

I picked up a drywall lift from HD yesterday morning. The guy said first come first serve and they only had a couple. Since my wife was taking the kiddo for the day I didn't want to miss this opportunity. So there I was standing out front of HD at 5:55 am. I got one... Here's the beast.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/drywallceiling003.jpg

I can't imagine doing this without a drywall lift, can't imagine!

Here are the first two sheets

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/drywallceiling001.jpg

It was slow going but I got the ceiling done in about 9 hours.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/drywallceiling007.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/drywallceiling009.jpg

I can say I am relieved that this part is done and it looks ok but I am a little disappointed that I didn't pay closer attention to the joists. Some of them were off just enough that I didn't notice until the drywall was up. There are a few spots with some waves.
I guess I will just do my best with the mudding and see if I can work it out a bit. Hopefully a dark ceiling color will help and if I have to I think I could texture too. Hey, when it's done the lights will be off and you will be watching the screen not the ceiling right?

I hope to have some time this week to start on the walls.

LewisCobb

07-15-07, 01:37 PM

I can say I am relieved that this part is done and it looks ok but I am a little disappointed that I didn't pay closer attention to the joists. Some of them were off just enough that I didn't notice until the drywall was up. There are a few spots with some waves.
I guess I will just do my best with the mudding and see if I can work it out a bit. Hopefully a dark ceiling color will help and if I have to I think I could texture too. Hey, when it's done the lights will be off and you will be watching the screen not the ceiling right?

Hi - A flat color is usually much more forgiving than a semi-gloss so you can take some comfort in that. I just painted my woodworking shop and used a semi-gloss as I need to wipe the walls down from time to time - there's a seam between two pieces of plywood that I had filled with wood filler, then used the oribital sander to smooth it so smooth you could not feel the seam with your finger ( a human finger can sense 0.001" of difference by the way). Anyway, I just finished painting and sure enough - with the light raking across the wall in that place I can see the seam :mad: Oh well, it's just a workshop I keep telling myself - hehe. Now if I could only finish the workshop I can start to use it to build my HT!

Cheers,
Lewis

BritInVA

07-15-07, 01:44 PM

McCall

07-15-07, 02:48 PM

"I can't imagine doing this without a drywall lift, can't imagine"

Um those who do not have a drywall lift can use a couple of home made "T's" made from 2x4's tack a bit of run scap on it works great.

judsonp

07-15-07, 09:58 PM

Is a second layer going up? If not does not look like you have enough drywall screws. Sould be every 8" to 12" . Looks like you just 'might' be on fringe of that range but if it were me I'd put more in - especially on a ceiling. Don't want that falling down :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

I put 5 drywall screws across the short side of the board and in line with each joist 16 inches on center. I certainly wouldn't want it to fall but I can't help but think more would be overkill. 35 screws per 4x8 board. I guess I could go back and add 1 more row.

Any suggestions for hiding some wavy boards (short of a second row). It doesn't have to be perfect but I hope I can find something that will improve it a little.

Thanks,
Judson

judsonp

07-15-07, 10:02 PM

dc_pilgrim

07-16-07, 10:10 AM

I checked on the price of a plexiglass door for my rack - $399!!!!!! I don't think I will be cutting a hole in the wall for my rack. I think using a remote extender will work better here.
I guess it's time to start looking at those... I thought I remembered Bud getting the Buffalo one and speaking highly of it.

I think buffalo and Xantech? are the extenders that come up the most. Or you could go RF. Remotes and/or extenders is a to-be purchased item for me too. I got the plexi-door to keep kids fingers out. I am not sure how much sound it would block, mine is just outside the room, by the entrance.

Welcome back to the chain-gang. Looking good getting the drywall up.

judsonp

07-16-07, 01:02 PM

I think buffalo and Xantech? are the extenders that come up the most. Or you could go RF. Remotes and/or extenders is a to-be purchased item for me too. I got the plexi-door to keep kids fingers out. I am not sure how much sound it would block, mine is just outside the room, by the entrance.

Welcome back to the chain-gang. Looking good getting the drywall up.

Thanks Dave! I looked at the Xantech stuff and their kits look pretty good.

I have a HTPC that uses the Microsoft remote which is IR. My Lutron lights are also IR so I think I should try to stay with that if possible. For literally $100-$150 I think I can do all of it.

Judson

chinaclipper

07-18-07, 11:21 AM

judsonp

07-18-07, 02:57 PM

WOW! Things are moving now, huh?

I can't remember, are you doing a second layer on the ceiling? I remember of all the things that stressed me on my build, my biggest stressor for the build by far, was to hope (and yes, PLAN) that my second drywall layer of my ceiling would "line up" ok and have the correct placement for the screws so they would be in a joist, NOT just the first layer of drywall... :eek:

As you have said, the similarities of our builds is uncanny! I have a little "arc" on my stage, and my equipment room is directly behind the back (projector) wall.
Your dimmer is even in the same location...

What size is your door? For some reason, the boss, who never made any comments or suggestions on the whole build (other than "don't make me poor!") said I needed to have a 36" door.......

How about screen? Did you look into the SMX screen? Are you going with the 2.35:1 aspect ratio?

Keep up the good work, and take care,

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom, yes things are really rolling. After finishing that pesky insulation the drywall has really made an impact on the room. It actually looks like a room.

I am not planning to do a second layer of drywall - I bet if I did it would help get rid of any inconsistencies that I have on the ceiling. I will finish with with the single layer, paint it black, or one of the blues and see how it looks. If I can't stand it then I will put fabric on the ceiling like Rooster did in his "Fly-in" theater. He did it for a star ceiling but I would just make it solid panels.

I think it's funny how similar our rooms are. I have really had fun watching you build yours. As for the door, it's rough framed for a 2 1/2' door. That is the size of the door at the top of the stairs to the basement and I figured if it won't fit through that door then it won't be in the theater anyway.

I bought my screen material before Ruben found the SMX stuff so I will be using the Dazian coated celtic cloth. It is a 1.0 gain screen just like the one I have now so it should look the same with the added benefit of acoustic transparency. I am planning on a 2.35:1 screen even though I don't have immediate plans to get a lense. I figure I would rather do it now than have to "re-construct" for it later.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Good luck on the last leg of your build.

Judson

judsonp

07-19-07, 08:26 AM

Here's a quick shot of the screen wall. The walls are so much easier to drywall than the ceiling so this should go much more quickly.
I am learning not to force drywall in any way. I pushed a little too hard on an outlet and a big chunk of drywall came off. You can see it over the top of the outlet on the left side. What a rookie... I guess that is what drywall mud is for.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/FrontWall001.jpg

My original plan was to seal off that window and never hear from it again but I decided at the last minute that I wanted to have access to it. I also want to replace it with a glass block window. So that is why it is still uncovered.

judsonp

07-23-07, 08:12 AM

Pretty good weekend for work in the theater. Both side walls are done with drywall. I only have the back wall to go and that one will be really quick.

Left wall looking back towards the door. Snack bar and the two cutouts for the gas meter and water meter. I need to find a creative way to cover those. Suggestions?
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/moredrywall004.jpg

Right wall. This is the wall that separates the laundry room from the theater. I have drywall on the laundry room side (see other picture thread), insulation, and two layers of drywall on the theater side. Now it's quiet. I can't imagine what it would be like if I did DD, GG, decoupled, etc.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/moredrywall007.jpg

I have been pushing to get this done! Our son is going to stay with the grandparents for the weekend and we want to use that to try to get the room mudded.

actionPlant

07-23-07, 04:38 PM

Nice job, good to see the ball rolling on this again! Keep up the great work.

judsonp

07-24-07, 10:51 AM

Nice job, good to see the ball rolling on this again! Keep up the great work.

Thanks ActionPlant, glad to be back at it!

MatthewB.

07-24-07, 01:32 PM

judsonp, just found this thread and you are doing a great job. You asked for a way to cover up the meter openings. I would suggest when done painting and finishing hanging two movie theater poster frames there. This way it covers the openings and easy to unhang when you need to get to the meter. Attach two nails on the top for the frames to hang. Attach some batting to the back of the frames themselves that easily fit in the space of the openings. to reduce vibration and help fill in the empty space. When you need access, just take the frame down and out (to not harm the batting on back). I'm no builder what so ever, but that is what I would do. Great job so far and please more pics.

drin

07-24-07, 02:12 PM

Left wall looking back towards the door. Snack bar and the two cutouts for the gas meter and water meter. I need to find a creative way to cover those. Suggestions?

As matthewB suggested, hang posters there. That's what I did in our wine cellar to cover our master breaker panel.

Before finishing:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/drinpsmith/cellar_wall.jpg

After finishing:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/drinpsmith/finished_wall-1.jpg

I didn't have the vibration issues to worry about, but the principle remains the same.

-drin

judsonp

07-25-07, 08:03 AM

Thanks guys, great ideas! I will eventually cover the walls with fabric panels but in the mean time this will work great.

judsonp

07-25-07, 08:09 AM

I did finish the drywall on the back wall of the theater last night. This marks the completion of the drywall hanging in the theater. I think I might take a little break and do a couple of the other odds and ends before coming back to the mud and tape.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/backWall001.jpg

I started to look at my columns a little more seriously and took a few left over scraps of drywall and made a mock up. 16"x7.5" I think will be a good size. I am now looking for surround speakers to put in the columns. I originally was going to build a box and use an in wall speaker. Now I think I might use something like the adp-190, adp-390 from Paradigm. Still looking.

judsonp

07-29-07, 08:32 PM

I finished the tape coat for the recessed and butt joints and filled the first of 3 layers of nails. I have to do the tape coat for the corners still then it will be back for the second layer. I am so tired I only posting one picture but will try to add some more later on - perhaps once the corners have some mud on them.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/tapecoat.jpg

I will plug the drywallschool website - it really is a great resource. I referenced it many times and I am sure it has made this process less painful.

judsonp

08-06-07, 11:30 AM

Didn't have much time to work in the theater but I did find a little time to get a few corners done. I was kind of nervous about doing this but once I got going it was kind of fun - OK not fun but rewarding to see more progress. Here are a couple pictures that lack any excitement whatsoever.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/corners001.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/corners002.jpg

I made a sketch of my screen wall. For some reason this sort of thing helps me work through problems before I break out the saw. Pretty cool utility.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwall-1.jpg

dc_pilgrim

08-06-07, 12:06 PM

judsonp

08-06-07, 12:31 PM

Congrats on the drywall progress. I'd say its downhill from there, but . . .

Regarding columns, I am kind of wishing I made mine a little thinner (8 or 9 inches), to conserve room for an aisle (or biggher seating).

Regarding the screenwall - I am leaning towards Bigmouth's approach. Not sure if you saw it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=837848

And yes, I agree, sketchup rocks.

When you say 8-9" do you mean width or depth? I am leaning towards 16" wide by 7.5" deep.

I did read that post by BMDC. I will use velcro panels and as little framing as possible, but I don't know if I can use less than what I have in the sketch. More thinking required.

dc_pilgrim

08-06-07, 12:36 PM

Pardon me, depth. I am too out of practice to play cards all night on a saturday night.

I believe I went with 12" wide by 9" deep. My speakers Ascend HTM-200 (not dipole) are ~7" deep.

This was an early design (before I went with the sconce change):
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/dc_pilgrim/column-1.jpg

Not knocking the stage design, I may wind up closer to yours in the end.

judsonp

08-06-07, 12:58 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the sketch. It looks like a great design. I will probably have to decide on a speaker and make a column that works instead of making a column and trying to stuff a speaker into it.

No worries on the stage design, we all have to do what works best and makes sense to us. I see your build is coming along nicely...

Right now I have my head down just trying to get through this drywall!

judsonp

08-25-07, 08:27 PM

Finally got back at it today. I was able to finish all but the 2 inside corners in the snack cove. I ran out of the metal ones covered by drywall tape and didnt' have enough tape to do them either. I will pick up a couple more corners, some more tape, and definately more mud. Once those two corners are done I can start on my second coat. It really is amazing how different the room looks with just a coat of mud.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/corners004.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/corners006.jpg

chinaclipper

10-02-07, 10:52 AM

Hey! Good to see your progress. How are things going? As we have both have noticed, there are a lot of simularities in our builds.
Best to you, get after it...
Tom
Chinaclipper

judsonp

10-02-07, 04:30 PM

Hey! Good to see your progress. How are things going? As we have both have noticed, there are a lot of simularities in our builds.
Best to you, get after it...
Tom
Chinaclipper

Hey to you! Thanks for popping in! Things are going pretty good. I am STILL mudding and sanding and mudding and sanding... you get the idea. Not much to post picture wise, who wants to see the same 4 walls again and again. I am more than ready to get on with something else. Really the only part I have to finish is the snack bar cove and the ceiling. After that I can get to work on the stage. I still need to get in touch with BPape about those acoustics.

Your build is turning out great. I showed my wife the pictures of your chairs and she changed her mind about 2 rows of the theater chairs in favor of a setup like yours.

I bet you are ready to be done? Have you been watching movies? Hopefully it is everything you hoped for and more!

More to come!

Judson

chinaclipper

10-22-07, 10:50 AM

judsonp

10-23-07, 12:44 PM

Hey! I feel like we haven't talked with you for awhile...
How's progress????

I JUST finished the my "virtual" tour of my HT (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/albums/album19/HT.mov), and the family back home inCalifornia seems to like it....
Hope things are doing well,

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

Your Virtual Tour looks great! Looks like you are in the process of wrapping things up.

I haven't spent much time working on the theater... an hour or two here and there. I have the final coat of mud almost finished on the walls. I have to do the ceiling and the inside of the snack cove and that should take care of the drywall in the theater.

I think if I can stay focused I will be able to get started on the stage before Thanksgiving.

I will take a couple pics and throw them up for good measure.

Judson

judsonp

11-09-07, 10:54 AM

OK, the outside chores are nearly done. The weather is changing, and I am running out of excuses.

I have been back in the "Dedicated Theater Design & Construction" thread getting caught up. I am getting pretty ramped up to get on with this build.

I still owe you guys some pictures of where I am with the drywall. I will do that this weekend. In addition I am going to finish the walls and get started on the ceiling. I am ready to get on with the stage and riser.

One question. Would it make more sense to prime and paint before I start on the riser, or it doesn't really matter. I know one advantage of priming is you can see where you need to do any additional work on the drywall.

On a side note, we finally got my wife a minivan so trips to the box stores will be a lot easier.

Chademt85

11-09-07, 01:24 PM

For some reason, I can't get Chinaclippers virtual tour to open. Any suggestions? I am using AOL. Thanks, Chad

BIGmouthinDC

11-09-07, 02:23 PM

I just checked it. I'm coming in via AOL for broadband and it works fine for me.

judsonp

11-11-07, 06:36 PM

I spent a good portion of the weekend working on drywall. I got almost all of the walls sanded. I have to touch up the corners and finish the snack bar area. Also, I have 2 coats on the ceiling and have probably another coat or two plus sanding. Here are a few boring pictures of the drywall.

Snack Bar
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall009-1.jpg

Front Wall
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall012.jpg

Back Right Corner
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Drywall003-1.jpg

Starting to look ahead to painting. I will have do a little research on prep for new drywall. I've done lots of painting but never on new drywall. The fun continues.

haaswood

11-12-07, 03:00 AM

It is amazing how different the room looks after mud, especially after it gets sanded a bit...

Regarding what to do for priming, I started one area with standard PVA primer, which is quite thin and did not work so well. I was not happy with the results. I tried a second brand and still wasn't happy -- it also made some minor finishing issues that I couldn't see before stand out.

After some on line research, I stumbled across USG's (drywall manufacturer) Sheetrock brand "First Coat", which is thicker and does what it claims regarding covering of minor imperfections in the sanding, etc. I would recommend it. It is a bit more expensive but wasn't a deal breaker.

http://www.usg.com/navigate.do?resource=/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/products/prod_details/Sheetrock_Brand_First_Coat_Primer.htm

judsonp

11-12-07, 08:51 AM

judsonp

11-19-07, 12:03 PM

Well, I discovered I made an error with my wiring. I have an outlet in the ceiling for my projector that I meant to wire to a switch separate of the rest of the equipment in the room so I could shut the projector off without having to use the toggle switch on the unit. I instead wired it in with the other equipment. I guess I have a couple options:

Leave it and manually shut off the projector. 7 foot ceilings makes this easy.

Put a switch inline that will shut off the other equipment related outlets (it's actually only subwoofer outlets.

I am open to suggestions for another way...

Thanks gang!!!

Fatawan

11-19-07, 12:13 PM

Use the remote!

judsonp

11-19-07, 12:17 PM

Use the remote!

Yes, while the remote does turn off the projector, the fan runs if the pj is plugged in. It doesn't draw much power but it will act as a dust collector if I don't kill all power to it.

judsonp

11-26-07, 09:28 AM

Oh Joy, the drywall is done!!!!

judsonp

11-26-07, 10:20 AM

judsonp

11-27-07, 10:11 AM

How are people with lower ceilings (7') handling their risers? I don't think I can make mine higher than about 8" without adding a step. Do people raise the screen up higher on the wall?

judsonp

12-03-07, 10:24 AM

I ended up using Sherwin Williams PreprRite ProBlock for my primer. It had decent coverage and looks like it will be a good base for paint.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/sherwin_williams_products/interior_house_paint/images/primers/6100028.jpg

I still haven't decided on paint colors. What color will help make my ceiling look taller? Black, Milano Blue, something else?

price3

12-03-07, 02:23 PM

You could hang acoustic panels over your gas meter and stuff, they would be light and easy to remove. You ARE going to do sound treatments right? :)

judsonp

12-04-07, 10:10 AM

You could hang acoustic panels over your gas meter and stuff, they would be light and easy to remove. You ARE going to do sound treatments right? :)

Yes, I am planning to use Bpape for my measurements and treatments. I guess I need to get around to doing that.
Because the cost of the fabric is so expensive I will be painting the walls first and adding panels afterwards. I plan on revising the GPowers panel design and going floor to ceiling.

judsonp

12-04-07, 09:53 PM

Here are a few pictures of the room all primed. 3 gallons of Sherwin Williams.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/primed003.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/primed002.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/primed001.jpg

Next up, stage construction!

mbgonzomd

12-05-07, 01:43 PM

Awesome! Starting to resemble a habitable space.

judsonp

12-05-07, 08:22 PM

Awesome! Starting to resemble a habitable space.

Thanks Gonzo! I am relieved that it is starting to look like a room. I am excited to get working on the stage. Also still contemplating my color scheme.

Judson

judsonp

12-06-07, 10:11 AM

I stopped at Home Depot to browse at carpet. While I was there I got talking to the woman that worked in that area. I was asking questions about installation. Here is the problem it looks like I am going to have.
It's a basement install which is asbestos tile over concrete. The carpet I took up was glued to another layer of tile over this one. I removed the carpet and tile and painted this layer of tile grey with porch paint.

I thought they could glue tack strip to the tiles and put carpet and pad over it. They won't. I asked if they would nail it down. They won't. I asked if they would glue it down but I really wanted something with pad.

We also talked about laminate floor with an area. Less than ideal but a possibility.

I am planning to go to a few "dedicated" carpet shops to get another opinion. Anyone else have suggestions or "here's what I did" comments?

actionPlant

12-06-07, 11:23 AM

Only thing I can think of is carpet over subfloor. They might be a little more willing then.

mbgonzomd

12-06-07, 12:25 PM

You could put down Dricore or delta Fl and then there should not be any problem putting down the tack strips and installing carpet with pad. You will lose about an inch of headroom.

judsonp

12-06-07, 12:42 PM

You could put down Dricore or delta Fl and then there should not be any problem putting down the tack strips and installing carpet with pad. You will lose about an inch of headroom.

Your right, I had considered that at one time. The ceiling is already 7'3" but I might have to bite the bullet. IIRC it can be installed after the walls are up. So I would have a 1" transition if I only put it in the theater?

rmcveigh

12-07-07, 04:07 PM

I'd shop around. I've seen HD installers put carpet down over concrete here in the Denver area before. It is doable, but the extra layer of subfloor makes a big difference in comfort I think.

-Ryan

judsonp

12-07-07, 04:45 PM

I'd shop around. I've seen HD installers put carpet down over concrete here in the Denver area before. It is doable, but the extra layer of subfloor makes a big difference in comfort I think.

-Ryan

Ryan,

I agree that the subfloor is the way to go. I think the issue with HD was with the extra layer of tile over the concrete. I think I might have to bite the bullet and do the dricore.

Thanks,
Judson

judsonp

12-11-07, 04:24 PM

chinaclipper

12-12-07, 11:52 AM

How are people with lower ceilings (7') handling their risers? I don't think I can make mine higher than about 8" without adding a step. Do people raise the screen up higher on the wall?

Hi Judson! Good to see such progress. My riser is 7" almost exactly, WITH the carpet in it is just under my inspector's limit of 8".

Works for me!

I have my screen placed so it's center is 1/3 below "eye level" and 2/3rd above eye level.

I think I saw that sugestion on one of the other threads...... Works great even with a 7' ceiling like us....
Best,
Tom
Chinacalipper

chinaclipper

12-12-07, 12:13 PM

I picked up the lumber for the stage at HD over the weekend. My Dad is coming over on Friday to help build it. I have 99% of the build figured out, the last 1% is going ot be by the "seat of my pants". I guess thats the fun of being the Architect, General contractor, carpenter, and laborer!
I haven't purchased the plywood for the top yet as I haven't decided what I am filling the stage with. Sand, insulation, or sand and insulation. I will have to rent a truck to get the plywood home. Might be a good time to get the sand if I go that route. Here's the basic idea:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/stageframe.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/stagemockup.jpg
WOW!! Judson, this is getting scary! Your stage/proscenium looks very similar to one I have seen before (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14/IMG_8128)!!!
HEHE I am just kidding, you know I am.....
I used the sand and am EXTREMELY satisfied with the results. You can't go wrong. I topped mine with recommended three-plywood-layer GG sandwich too, and again, I am very happy. BTW, make sure you get enough sand on the first time-it's a pain to have to go back and tell the poor guy who brought all the sand to your car the first time that you need MORE!!

It looks good, keep up the work! You are getting closer and closer, sure neat to see the project "flesh out" from a plan, huh?

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

judsonp

12-12-07, 02:42 PM

Thanks for the responses Tom. It looks like I can get the screen 32" off the floor. That is high enough for the 2nd row to have a 7"+ riser and low enough to not hit the ceiling. I don't have lense shift for my Infocus projector so I am some what limited by that too.
I am definitely going with sand in the stage. As we've both said before, our builds our eerily similar. We will have to do a side by side when complete.

Finally nice to see actual progress instead of google sketches.

Judson

W00lly

12-13-07, 03:58 PM

judsonp

12-13-07, 04:04 PM

Coming along nicley :)

If you are not 100% sure where your sub or subs are going to be placed or maybe you want to move them at some point because it sounds better else where on your stage I would fill the whole thing with sand

I think your right Scott, however, with the amount of sand you used it makes me tired just thinking about it. But as they say, do it right or don't do it at all.

judsonp

12-16-07, 01:45 PM

My Dad and I got a good portion of the stage framed on Friday. I don't have a picture yet but the front curve is attached. I have a little tweaking to do but it's pretty much framed. The floor was about 1/2" out of level over 13' so we had to shim the right side like crazy. I think once the sand is in there I will be fine! I also remembered to put the roofing felt down before we nailed everything together.
Still have to get the sand and pick up plywood for the top. It is snowing like crazy here so that won't happen until the weather improves.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage001.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage002.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage003.jpg

We put a 1.125" deep cut every inch on a 10' board to create the curve. It worked pretty well.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage004.jpg

judsonp

12-16-07, 04:15 PM

Here are the rest of the stage pictures.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage005.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage006.jpg

actionPlant

12-17-07, 10:28 AM

Looking good!

W00lly

12-19-07, 11:35 AM

Judson
Nicely done will look great when the carpet goes in :)

judsonp

12-27-07, 03:46 PM

I continue my quest of filling the stage with sand. I followed everyones lead - it's about 3 bags per cavity. I am guessing 28-30 bags. I can get about 12 bags in the van, so 3 trips to HD - not everyone has a big truck like Wooly:D.

Great shot of my son helping out with the stage - just don't tell him I have all this sand!
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/helper002.jpg

I also realized that I will "need" a new tool for the stage. I don't have a router and this is the perfect excuse to get one for the front lip. So I grabbed one from Sears on sale. Craftsman 9.5 Amp 1-3/4 HP Plunge Base Router.

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00917540000?qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

I posted this question somewhere else but thought I would put it here too. What is the preferred layering of the stage material?

3/4" plywood
roofing felt
3/4" plywood
liquid nails
joist

judsonp

12-28-07, 09:00 PM

35 bags of sand later. 1750 lbs of sand! I know this is standard practice here but when I tell people I filled my stage with that much sand they think I am medicated:eek:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage011.jpg

I am hoping I can get some OSB this weekend and get the top put on.

MattHD1313

12-28-07, 11:22 PM

That is indeed a lot of sand! Looks great so far! Gotta be pretty satisfying to be building it yourself!

mbgonzomd

12-29-07, 07:21 AM

when I tell people I filled my stage with that much sand they think I am medicated:eek:

...or you stopped taking your medication:D. Stage looks great. Nice work.

dc_pilgrim

12-29-07, 10:14 AM

35 bags wow. We got ours when everyone in town was building sandboxes. We rolled with it.

judsonp

12-30-07, 02:54 PM

Thanks guys, I finally see the metamorphosis taking place.

Worked a little more on the stage today. I got the OSB for the top. 4 sheets of 3/4" tongue and groove. I had Lowes cut them in half so I could get them in the van. It worked like a charm.
Test fitting the first layer
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage013.jpg

Then I moved the second layer to the floor so I could trace the first layer on it. I slid the top layer up 1.5" to account for the lip on the front edge
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage023.jpg

Once traced I cut out the top layer. Test fit the 2nd layer.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage024.jpg

I got the idea from W00ly to only make the lip 3/4" thick so the first layer is cut flush and the top layer hangs over 1.5"
Nothing is fastened down yet but everything looks great.

My favorite tool of the day. I also used the cordless sabre saw to cut the curves. The C3 stuff is great for the price. I used 1 battery for all the cuts.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage020.jpg

Now to glue and screw that top on!

AccessHA

12-30-07, 03:03 PM

I'll second that. I have the entire C3 collection and its great stuff. Keep up the good work!

judsonp

01-04-08, 11:25 PM

ok, the stage is done. I added a layer of 1/4" plywood to the front because there was a pretty sizable gap on one side from the floor being far from level. Now the carpet installers will have a little easier time.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/stage027.jpg

The 2nd layer of OSB is screwed on and the front lip hangs over 1.5" and has a nice round-over to it, thanks W00ly!

I couldn't contain myself and had to put up the painters tape screen frame. That is a 42 X 100 scope screen (2.37). I have some restrictions with my Infocus SP4805 - mainly no lens shift. So the image is about 3-4" lower than I would like but the alternative is keystone which I prefer not to do. So until I can get to 1080p - and a pj with lens shift this will do just fine. I plan to build the screen wall in a way that will allow me to manipulate the screen size in the future.

Why is it that some get the entire stage carpeted and then build the screen wall and proscenium and others wait until all the construction is done? Are there advantages to waiting or doing the carpet sooner?

I just got my stuff from Bpape, everyone raves about him and I can see why. I think what he proposed will make my room sound great.

Next stop, screen wall construction and some thinking about column designs.

W00lly

01-05-08, 12:35 AM

Judson

man if you had about 5 more feet of depth you could have gone alot larger on your screen

are you going to put in steps on the sides of the stage? On the carpet I thought it would be whole lot easer to have them carpet the entire stage then build on top rather then the carpet layers having to piece it in behind the wall. I don't think it really matters but if you ever decide to move your screen wall or reconfigure it you wont have to worry about having the carpet fixed

What did you decide on the in-wall speakers. I am gunna go with those Jamo's and build them into the columns. I am going to build my columns this weekend I'll post some pics when I get them done :)

judsonp

01-05-08, 10:36 AM

WOOlly,

yes, an extra 5 feet would be nice, but the steps leading to the basement are right behind the back wall. Oh well. Actually, I think the bigger restriction is a combination of the projector inflexibility and the 7 foot ceilings. The scope screen was a benefit because of the ceiling height. No steps on the sides of the stage. Those are notched for wing walls - scroll up a couple posts and there is a sketchup of it.

Thanks for the comments about your carpet, that makes perfect sense.

I ended up with Paradigm dipoles instead of the Jamo inwalls. I still think they will work great in a properly built column and I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to use those. I have all Paradigm upfront so it just kind of made sense.

I look forward to seeing how yours turn out.

Judson

judsonp

01-05-08, 02:42 PM

chinaclipper

01-08-08, 01:55 PM

I have been taking some measurements for my riser. More questions than answers. I am planning on 2 rows of 3 recliners. Considering both Berkline and Coaster. It looks like there are models that will fit my room width wise but depth could be an issue.
I have 2 inches of treatments going on the back wall plus it looks like I need at least another 3 for recline. 67" stretch for the full recline puts me at 72". That pushes the 1st row forward inside of 12', closer to 11'. I can live with that I guess even though I am pretty sensitive to SDE with my 480p projector. We are pretty committed to recliners in both rows.

What are other people in this situation doing?
Hey again Judson, looking good! BPAPE is a good resource, yes :) ?
You will NOT be disappointed with the results!! Remember though, you won't get the FULL effects of his sound treatments until you get the carpet in and laid down.

A couple of things. First, the idea with the seats is similar to my dilemma (go figure..) when I designed/built. I also wanted to go with two rows of Berks 45004 recliners, but had similar depth issues. I did go with three Berks for the front row.

My "sweet spot" front row seats are at 12', ( I have a 114"x 47" Cinemascope screen also) These are fully reclinable. ( I HIGHLY suggest powered recliners, MUCH more versatile).

I elected to go with "cinema seats" for my back row.
Three reasons really: 1) expense, (2) space, and (3) I wanted more than 6 total seats. I have five cinema seats that fit very nicely in my back row riser. Total seats-8! :)

I have Buttkickers on all recliners, and two located on my riser. Plenty of "effects" for the rear seats. I used to call the back row my "cheap seats" but not anymore. ;) Now, when guests come in, I insist they sit in the Berks, and I do just fine in the cinema seats. Sure it would have been nice to have 5 more feet of depth, and 2 or three more feet of width, but the arrangement works great for me.

Secondly-Did you make a "lip" for your stage? I had a heck of a time determining how I was going to do that what I thought was a simple task...Are you going to carpet your stage? I really am curious to see your stage completed. It looks great. Did you get a sore back from getting that sand downstairs? hehehe That is what nephews are for!

I sure am enjoying your build. Pretty cool, huh? Just wait, you'll love it!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

judsonp

01-08-08, 02:18 PM

Hey again Judson, looking good! BPAPE is a good resource, yes :) ?
You will NOT be disappointed with the results!! Remember though, you won't get the FULL effects of his sound treatments until you get the carpet in and laid down.

A couple of things. First, the idea with the seats is similar to my dilemma (go figure..) when I designed/built. I also wanted to go with two rows of Berks 45004 recliners, but had similar depth issues. I did go with three Berks for the front row.

My "sweet spot" front row seats are at 12', ( I have a 114"x 47" Cinemascope screen also) These are fully reclinable. ( I HIGHLY suggest powered recliners, MUCH more versatile).

I elected to go with "cinema seats" for my back row.
Three reasons really: 1) expense, (2) space, and (3) I wanted more than 6 total seats. I have five cinema seats that fit very nicely in my back row riser. Total seats-8! :)

I have Buttkickers on all recliners, and two located on my riser. Plenty of "effects" for the rear seats. I used to call the back row my "cheap seats" but not anymore. ;) Now, when guests come in, I insist they sit in the Berks, and I do just fine in the cinema seats. Sure it would have been nice to have 5 more feet of depth, and 2 or three more feet of width, but the arrangement works great for me.

Secondly-Did you make a "lip" for your stage? I had a heck of a time determining how I was going to do that what I thought was a simple task...Are you going to carpet your stage? I really am curious to see your stage completed. It looks great. Did you get a sore back from getting that sand downstairs? hehehe That is what nephews are for!

I sure am enjoying your build. Pretty cool, huh? Just wait, you'll love it!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

It's great to hear from you again! I stop in on your page every once in a while to see how you did this, or that. Still amazes me at the similarities.

Yes, Bryan is awesome. I can't wait to hear what his treatments will do for this echo chamber. It has already been an experience I would recommend to everyone.

Ahhhh, the seats are a dilemma. Originally I was going to do 8 theater seats but my wife really wanted the recliners. So then it was changed to the set up you have. I didn't like the idea as much and petitioned for 2 rows of 3 without considering the consequences. Basically I can make my riser 18" deeper than I had planned move my front row to 11' and have my 2 rows or recliners. The verdict is still out, but that is the tentative plan. I better decide as it's time to get started on that riser.

I did make a lip on my stage. It's 1.5" to allow for the stage to be carpeted on the top and the front.

2 - 3/4" layers of OSB on the stage

1. Lay out first layer on stage.
2. Draw line on bottom side of OSB flush with stage
3. Cut out first layer
4. Lay uncut second layer on floor
5. Lay first cut layer on top and slide forward 1.5"
6. Trace template
7. Remove top layer
8. Cut out second layer
9. Attach first layer to stage - no lip
10 Attach second layer to stage - 1.5" lip

So basically my lip is 3/4" think instead of 1.5" thick.

Yes, I was really tired and sore from moving all that sand downstairs. I also had to move 8 - 4x4 3/4" sheets of OSB down there.

I am really have a great time doing this. I wish I had more money and more time to dedicate to it.

Because the back end of this project is so dollar intensive that is what will drive the schedule.

Riser and columns next.

Judson

chinadog

01-12-08, 09:18 AM

Hey Judson, looking good. You're making some good progress.... Are you going to go with black carpet on the stage?

Bud

judsonp

01-12-08, 08:33 PM

Thanks Bud! Yes, I am finally to the fun part. I can taste it albeit it's just a sample. I do plan to carpet the stage in black.

Judson

SatelliteGuy

01-14-08, 08:18 PM

Looking great! I am following your thread closely as I construct my own theater.

judsonp

01-15-08, 01:21 PM

Thanks SatelliteGuy! Good luck with your build!

judsonp

01-16-08, 02:34 PM

I started on my riser. I must have been in the zone since I finished without a single mis-cut and in less than an hour.

Layout
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/riser001.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/riser002.jpg

Assembly
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/riser003.jpg

Done... almost! Drat, I ran out of roofing material. I need about 6 feet.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/riser004.jpg

I am just starting on the step light and aux. equipment in the riser. Then just insulation and put the top on.

judsonp

01-18-08, 01:29 PM

now that things are starting to take shape I am seeing that I don't like not having any soffits. The primary reason was because my ceiling is only 7' 3". I had an idea that I could add a 2' wide soffit that is only 2" deep, attached directly to the ceiling and covered with black fabric.

I really only want it to break up the ceiling. Here is a quick sketch. The new part is in red. The blue is existing ceiling. Colors for illustration only.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/soffit.jpg

judsonp

01-21-08, 10:44 AM

The riser is almost done. I got it wired for power, and ran the conduit for the av box (ie Xbox, PS3, whatever I want to have in the room).

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007215.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007221.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007224.jpg

I also wired up the step light and tested it. I need a different bulb but here's a lights on/lights off shot:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007226.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007227.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007221.jpg

I started putting insulation in the riser to keep it from sounding like a drum. I used a combination of R30 and R13.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007229.jpg

I got the top cut and laid in place. I think I can get it glued and screwed by the end of the week. More pictures on the way!

mph86

01-21-08, 01:22 PM

Looks awesome, can't wait to see it finished.

W00lly

01-21-08, 02:57 PM

Judson

I used latex caulk instead of glue to hold my top in place and then screwed it on. You just never know if you mite have to take it apart god forbid. glue or caulk mainy to keep any squeaks from forming. I saw a build a guy did and he glued all his stage together then decided to go a different way he said it took a better part of a day to rip it apart :( liquid nails is no joke :D

judsonp

01-21-08, 10:08 PM

thanks mph86, I can't wait either!

Scott,

Great, idea! I would cry if I had to take it apart but would rather have the option and not have to hack it apart. ;)

Judson

ripcord87

01-22-08, 08:04 AM

Hey Judson! It's looking good! Great progress and I love the idea of going with black and gray. I'll be excited to see how it all finishes out.

Ryan

judsonp

01-22-08, 09:37 AM

Hey, thanks Ryan! I am a little unsure on the colors. I have been back and forth on the black and gray, black and tan, on and on, and on. I still have a little time so we will see.
I see that your in Monroe. We are in Toledo, so practically neighbors.

Judson

judsonp

01-25-08, 09:45 AM

Drum roll please... I framed the screen wall last night. This for me has been the most exciting part because I can actually see where the screen goes (is). It's framed at 46" by 108" with an extra 1/4" all the way around.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallframing.jpg

I also caulked and screwed the riser top on and gave the lip a nice round over.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/completedriser.jpg

You can see here that I cut the lip off a 9" section of the riser. This is where the column will go on this side. I discovered one benefit to this is I won't have to transition from the riser height to the floor height when I do the baseboard trim.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/columncutout.jpg

ripcord87

01-25-08, 09:58 AM

judsonp

01-25-08, 10:16 AM

Is that a switch I see on the right hand side of the riser? Is that for the lights perhaps? Just curious. The stage and riser looks great! It's always nice to get a visual of exactly where you will be staring for many years to come!

Keep up the good work!

Ryan

Ryan,

yup, that's a switch. Once I figure out the carpet color I will convert it to a rocker dimmer switch for the step light in the riser. I didn't want to cut into the back wall to add the switch so I hid it behind the first row of chairs.

Thanks,
Judson

W00lly

01-25-08, 11:08 AM

Nice work :) your moving right along now. I also have been busy will post some new pics of my progress later today

judsonp

01-25-08, 11:26 AM

Nice work :) your moving right along now. I also have been busy will post some new pics of my progress later today

Awesome, thanks! Looking forward to those pictures. Your in the "fun" stage, or is it the "OMG, I am so close" stage?

judsonp

01-28-08, 01:29 PM

snowkarver

01-28-08, 03:25 PM

I picked up a Kreg jig over the weekend. Wow, this thing is cool. OK, so I am easily amused.

http://216.119.73.43/products/images/prd_32.jpg

I can't wait to start building frames for my fabric. This thing is going to be really handy.

Judson

Hey did I influence you on that one? :D

Just wanted to jump in here after you commented on my thread about also going with a black/brown/tan color scheme.

One thing I learned picking colors that you might want to keep in mind for your HT is that if you choose browns and tans with a heavier grey tone (sometimes they're more grey-brown or moleskin), it ends up looking more complementary with the inevitable blacks and whites of a HT (screen, screenwall, GOM, trim, equipment etc etc) Otherwise, some browns and tans end up looking quite yellowish, especially under incandescent light.

judsonp

01-28-08, 03:32 PM

Hey did I influence you on that one? :D

Just wanted to jump in here after you commented on my thread about also going with a black/brown/tan color scheme.

One thing I learned picking colors that you might want to keep in mind for your HT is that if you choose browns and tans with a heavier grey tone (sometimes they're more grey-brown or moleskin), it ends up looking more complementary with the inevitable blacks and whites of a HT (screen, screenwall, GOM, trim, equipment etc etc) Otherwise, some browns and tans end up looking quite yellowish, especially under incandescent light.

I had seen the kreg stuff in a few other threads but yes you pushed me over the edge.

The colors I picked have a grey-green hue to them. It's funny you mention this as my Step-Mother is a decorator and she suggested the same thing. Should be good to go.

Thanks,
Judson

judsonp

02-01-08, 12:28 PM

I ordered a sample of the Janus material from Dazian. Aside from the big stain on it I am really pleased with it. Great properties and color. I got a sample card from them a while back which I obsessed over for a few months.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007019.jpg

Here is the color we picked for the walls - Antelope
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007021.jpg

And here is the 3 yards hanging on the back wall
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007025.jpg

Here's a shot of the oak trim and ceiling colors
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/Fallwinterchristmas2007027.jpg

The minwax stain is dark walnut, and the ceiling color is the second from the left - Behr Butternut Wood 710D-6. Both the fabric and paint are darker than they appear in the pictures.
I am still looking for a paint color for the snack cove - maybe a muted dark orange/copper color. The screen wall and columns will be black celtic cloth.

I apologize for the terrible pictures. I am going to go back and see if I can improve them a bit.

aham23

02-01-08, 12:35 PM

those are some nice looking color choices. cant wait to see it all put together!

judsonp

02-01-08, 01:41 PM

those are some nice looking color choices. cant wait to see it all put together!

Thanks! Looks like you have quite a project going on yourself!

judsonp

02-01-08, 02:15 PM

I plan to use corner bass traps that are 17" X 17" X 24" in the front corners behind the screen wall. When I installed my electrical I hadn't planned to do this and put my outlets too close to the corners. Fortunately I took good pictures and see that I can move both outlets towards the center of the wall without having to pull any new wire.

I will move both outlets. In the picture the red line is about 17". I will move them in from there.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/electricalupdate.jpg

ejhuzy

02-01-08, 03:08 PM

judsonp

02-01-08, 03:26 PM

I'm interested in using Dazian too. I ordered Expo cloth samples in the past, but didn't find a color I liked. Looks like more to choose from in the PD/Janus area. Is this stuff accoustically transparent? I see that it's fire resistant.

I know Janus is AT. The PD cloth is much thicker. It might be too but I didn't want to take a chance. Janus is a little more expensive than the exposure cloth but as you see offers a much better selection of colors.

judsonp

02-04-08, 08:32 AM

I wanted to be sure to get this out there. I will put it in the "Carpet is Pricey" thread too.
I started making the rounds looking at carpet prices, patterns, installation, etc. As I am sure we can all agree that this part can make grown men cry.

I stopped at a local Carpet One dealer that my Father-in-Law had used in the past and recommended. I got good, honest information.

A little background. I have concrete floors with the old asbestos tiles over the top. The tiles are in really good shape. I painted them with porch paint when I started the room. The carpet guys said that they can install whatever I want down there. If I want something plush with a pad they can put down tack strip, if I want commercial they can glue it, or any combination. This was my biggest concern. When at the box stores they wouldn't even look at it.

The guy at Carpet One explained when to use a big pad, and skimp on the carpet, when to use nice carpet without pad. Why some carpets cost more. I got the whole lesson, it was great.

I found a patterned carpet that I really liked that came in about 9 colors including black. It was made by Lees which from what I understand has been around forever. I think they are part of Mohawk. I am trying to find a picture to include.

chinaclipper

02-07-08, 02:35 PM

judsonp

02-10-08, 09:21 PM

Hey, whats up? Things looking good. I noticed you are using Dazian vs GOM. What was it that made you decide one or the other? I am just curious I suppose. Nice colors BTW :)

Sounds like you are deciding on carpet, huh? We went the "bigger nicer pad" too, but still got a pretty nice carpet. I was pleasantly suprised, all in all-the budge for carpet was $2500 and we didn't even come close to that one. Nice!

Looks like the acoustics and the fabric are right around the corner now. Getting pretty exciting, huh?

I remember reading someones' post when I was a bit further away from being done then you are now-it was something to the tone of "Now what am I going to do now that I am done?"

Well, of course now I realise you are never really done-there is always another project. Crazy huh?

Best wishes, keep up the good work,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Hey Tom! Thanks for dropping in. I am sure you remember this stage - like it was yesterday probably. I bet your just sitting around watching movies eh?

I picked the Dazian stuff mostly on price. It was about half of the GOM. Once I got the sample I like the texture better than the GOM too. Don't get me wrong I think the GOM would have been great, just not as easy on the pocket book.

Yeah, the whole carpet thing is still up in the air. It's between a commercial carpet with a pattern, or something similar to yours - more plush, solid color. Verdict is still out, but I do know that the budget is not $2500 so it's nice to hear you came in short of that too.

Your right, the acoustics are the next thing. I have some pictures to put of already. Lots of material to order yet and it should take a while to get it all done. But it will happen.

I can't quite see the light at the end of the tunnel, but at least right now I know it isn't a train.

Judson

judsonp

02-10-08, 09:40 PM

I took Thursday and Friday off and had all of Saturday to get my groove on. So heres the current status.

I textured the ceiling on Thursday afternoon. I used the Behr smooth texture and created a stucco knock down / spanish knife look. My wife and I both really like how it turned out.
Friday morning I primed the ceiling, and Friday afternoon I painted. It's Behr Butternut wood in flat. Here are a couple terrible pictures for you to stare at.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint009.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint016.jpg

On Saturday I touched up the ceiling - which prompted a second coat, which I am still not happy with. I guess we will see what a third coat looks like.

I also started furring out the screen wall for the 1" OC703. The first order of business was to build a little frame for the outlet. I used the Kreg jig - what fun!

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint017.jpg

Next, test fit the box. I did the 3 outlets on the screen wall and the light controls on the back wall. The back wall gets 2" acoustic materials so I built that frame accordingly.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint018.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint020.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint022.jpg

Once all that was done I started to move the outlets to make room for the corner bass traps that I neglected to plan for.

Measure twice, cut once - outlet moved about 8 inches further from the corner.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint027.jpg

Hack the box out of there.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint028.jpg

Fish for the wires and cables.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint029.jpg

Put some blocking in there. Use the piece of drywall I just cut out and mud over it.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/paint031.jpg

Repeat on the other side.

For the center channel I just used a box extender and screwed it into the existing box.

I squirted some liquid nails on the back and clamped them to the wall.

I was going to go to HD today and get some 2x's to rip down but since it was well below zero today I decided to wait.

Judson

W00lly

02-11-08, 05:05 PM

judsonp

02-12-08, 03:52 PM

Getting closer :D

Carpet is not going to be cheap don't scrimp here cuz you will regret it down the road. I ended up paying $2300 for mine :( I am sure I could have gone a bit cheaper but not many green color choices that we liked. I would go plush with your carpet I too thought about going with a commercial type patterned carpet but changed my mind and glad I did.

Don't worry, I won't skimp! The big decision is commercial or plush. Like you, I keep coming back to the plush, especially if kids want to lay on the floor.

judsonp

02-12-08, 03:57 PM

BPape did my acoustics for my room and spec'd OC703 and cotton. I decided that if I could find it locally I would use the OC703 instead of the cotton. Bryan thought I would do almost as well with it. I found the OC703 locally for both the 1" and the 2". The best part is the 1" was $.43/sq ft. and the 2" was $.85/sq ft. I couldn't touch this price online even without the shipping costs. I should have it by the end of next week.

I guess I need to get working on those furring strips and frames.

Judson

judsonp

02-16-08, 02:29 PM

Since I've been a little under the weather I haven't done much in the theater. Speaking of the weather, we just got dumped on (for NW Ohio at least) so I haven't bothered getting the MDF to start my columns. I don't want to cut it in the house so I have to wait until the deck is cleared off. While I wait I am starting to get my furring strips going. Here are a couple shots of the wall behind the screen. Bass traps in the corners and 1" OC703 everywhere else.

Left side wall
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallfurringstrips001.jpg

Template for bass trap
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallfurringstrips002.jpg

Frame Bottom
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallfurringstrips003.jpg

Frame top
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallfurringstrips005.jpg

Outlets
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallfurringstrips007.jpg

Done
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/screenwallfurringstrips006.jpg

judsonp

02-19-08, 04:06 PM

I am focusing my attention on the screen and stage.

OC703 for the front wall should be here Friday.
I have my screen material.
My screen frame will be here by March 1st.
I ordered 8 yards of 122" wide Dazian CCC in black to cover the insulation and make my screen wall.

I don't have any painting left to do so I can hang my projector in there and start tuning stuff while I build my frames and work on finishing touches. Don't get me wrong, I have months of work ahead of me.

chinaclipper

02-20-08, 04:04 PM

Wow, things looking good.

Are you using 5.5" cotton for the bass traps? BPAPE was my sound/acoustical guy too, and that's what we used. My BIGGEST concern was trying to cut the stuff into triangles. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/screen_003a?full=1) Wow, what a pain. BTW, I had to move my outlets too, and for the same reason :D.

Then, two weeks ago when I was getting ready to make BPAPE's bass traps for a friend, I discovered my hand radial saw. It worked like a champ. You turn the blade around and it works real neat. Made about 50 cuts in about 1/100 of the time it took me with my wives best Henkles knife. :(

Take care, looking forward to see the finished product.
Tom
Chinaclipper

judsonp

02-21-08, 07:57 AM

ripcord87

02-23-08, 09:52 AM

judsonp

02-24-08, 01:13 PM

That screen wall is looking great. Just remember that hanging the projector can be the kiss of death! Once it's up and working it's hard to get anything else done, or so I've read many times. Everything is looking great and keep up the great work. Stay warm during these ridiculously cold days!

____________________________________________________________ _____
33 days til Fatherhood! :D

Thanks ripcord87! I actually have had the projector up for 2 years in the next room. My wife wants that space for a playroom for our son so moving it into the new theater won't be too much of a change.
The cold weather has been good as it keeps me inside (working on the theater).

Judson

judsonp

02-25-08, 09:25 AM

My OC703 came in on Friday. I am planning to pick it up today and start installing this week.

I am planning to use 3M Super77 to glue it to the wall. I am covering it with Dazian Celtic cloth in black (which shipped Friday). Do I need to use the drywall screws and washers or will it be fine with just the glue and material stretched over it?

As far as updates. I got the screen framing painted black (pictures to follow). Also I cut and primed the frame and panels for the false wall hiding the gas and water meters. Haven't taken pictures of those yet. I try to get those up tonight. I didn't realize how loud the gas meter was until I covered it up.

Thanks in advance!

judsonp

02-25-08, 12:40 PM

Well, the OC703 made it home. 3 boxes barely fit in the van. It's home safe on the back porch (pardon the littering of kid stuff). I will need some help getting it into the basement.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/OC703.jpg

indianrider

02-25-08, 02:23 PM

judsonp

02-25-08, 02:32 PM

Indianrider,

I got 192 sq ft of 2" @ $.85/sq ft and 192 sq ft of 1" @$.43 sq ft.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Judson

judsonp

02-25-08, 11:51 PM

Here are the pictures I promised:

Screen wall frame painted black
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated002.jpg

Hidden Panels built and primed
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated003.jpg

Now on to the front wall OC703.

8 triangles per 2x4 sheet of OC703
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated010.jpg

First one in
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated004.jpg

Left side
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated011.jpg

Right Side
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated014.jpg

Front Wall
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated017.jpg

Done
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated019.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/judsonp/Home%20Theater%20Construction/frontwalltreated021.jpg

I used the 3M Super 77 to glue each panel to the wall. I will go back and add the drywall screws with the plastic washers this week.
Once the fabric arrives (maybe tomorrow) I can start getting this covered up.

Judson

dc_pilgrim

02-26-08, 04:36 AM

What did you use to cut the OC 703? The result looks surgical.

judsonp

02-26-08, 09:45 AM

What did you use to cut the OC 703? The result looks surgical.

Dave,

I used an adjustable utility knife. I have OCD tendencies.

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/mid_res/10-425_mid_res.jpg

judsonp

02-27-08, 08:18 AM

My black Dazian Celtic Cloth came yesterday, but being both too tired and without a stapler I didn't get any of the fabric started. Instead I took my Son to the hardware store and picked up some new tools. Relevant to this project is a Surebonder 9600 pneumatic stapler. This one has been talked about a little on this board - it's the one that shoots the Arrow T50 staples. Haven't tried it yet but looks like it will be great.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41-gKf7TLPL._SS500_.jpg

Also, the saga continues regarding my screen frame. I ordered the Testrite Hercules Stretcher bars from a place called MisterArt. It's been 2 weeks and the bars haven't even shipped yet. As I understand it the nightmare begins once the manufacturer gets their hands on the order. I've heard horror stories... Of course this was after I ordered them... why didn't you guys warn me;)

judsonp

02-28-08, 09:00 AM

I put up 7 yards of Dazian CCC in black behind my screen wall last night. Let me say a couple things. First, I have a new appreciation for anyone who has put up fabric. It's pretty tough. Once I got a system down it wasn't too bad, but it's good that I started behind the screen because I did have a couple wrinkles. Not noticeable at all but they are there.

The Surebonder 9600 stapler works great. I put in about 1200 staples last night and it didn't miss a beat. I think I had 2 misfires.

My new best friend - the push pin. I learned this from Bud (Chinadog). I didn't start using them at first but once I did things went much better.

I forgot to get the pictures off the camera (it was 1 am) so I can't post them yet, but I will tonight.