This post could VERY long winded but I will try to minimize it. Short story is getting rid of beloved F38310 which was in the corner on stand flanked by front 3 speakers. Now, a 1.5 year old daughter, and a new tv later, we are looking for more floor space (though not #1 priority), child proof (AMAP), 40+ inches, and a new tv. We went through every single scenario possible w/in our limited budget.
I ruled out panel LCD's after a while though I liked at first. There is something about plasmas that I am just not real fond of, with the exception of big dollar ones. I see pixels, and apears "grainy" to me. I also see the rainbows, and even more anoyingly see a "flicker" with DLP's. So the best bang for our buck was the Sony RP LCD's. And I am happy with it. I went in going to get the 46" which was the same price as 42" last week, but ended up with 42" due to my following issue.
We came up with this (not so) brilliant idea of recessing it inside our (wood burning) fireplace, which then sticks out about 6" about same depth as a plasma. Cool ide and looks neat. But obviously MANY headaches so far. Oh and our harth is redculously huge and it is about 18" off the ground. THis big ass fireplace drives me nuts by the way.
JIST 1) is it "safe to be in there if FP is stuffed w/insulaion and closed off?
2) It is naturally a bit damp (though not leaking) in there, could I build a "box" inside of there w/drywall or the likes?
3) Or should I just take the MUCH easier way out and put the thing back in the corner wich would have me not go into attic to move cables to outside, as well as nt having to get power to inside of f/p (track)?
4) why in the world are all stands now wide open and glass?! Do none of these people have children!? And all those expose cables!

Pics to follow to help in description.

Here are the pics. My wife says I mut note that our house is NOT typically like this with junk all over the place and DVD players on the floor etc. This is all for this "project" which is driving me nuts. But darn it would be neat if it works. Especially with a cheezy fireplace DVD.

last ones including a view of the old

I should also add that while I honestly would like the fireplace thing to work out, I would get the larger 46" on a stand in the corner and not have any headaches of running cables and power. But primary concern is safety of being in fireplace "box" with f/p being a damp/cool location.

I think this TV is screaming to be placed ABOVE the fireplace mantel. It appears that you have the room?

1) is it "safe to be in there if FP is stuffed w/insulaion and closed off?
2) It is naturally a bit damp (though not leaking) in there, could I build a "box" inside of there w/drywall or the likes?

I think it is a good idea, as long as you don't use the fireplace I can't see why it wouldn't be safe...just full of black crap (soot)

2) If you're going to run permanent power down there, then the fireplace would be permanently disabled, my suggestion would be to build a box by screwing cement board (or something similar) to the inside of the fireplace and tiling the inside to match when you re-tile the outside of the fireplace :D :D

You would have to frame a top "wall", and that is where you could put your AC/AV plugs, and just attach the board to the inside walls of the fireplace. The tile would get rid of any moisture problems, although I don't know where it would come from.

Keep us updated.





3) Or should I just take the MUCH easier way out and put the thing back in the corner wich would have me not go into attic to move cables to outside, as well as nt having to get power to inside of f/p (track)?

No... that's too easy. :rolleyes:

This tv is too deep (14") but a plasma was the original plan. However above the mantle is just too high. Wifey thought of notching out mantle, but I do not want to and there are also physcs involved. Also considered plasma/lcd just above f/p cutout and placing audio gear inside there. But above mantle is just too high.

1) is it "safe to be in there if FP is stuffed w/insulaion and closed off?
2) It is naturally a bit damp (though not leaking) in there, could I build a "box" inside of there w/drywall or the likes?

I think it is a good idea, as long as you don't use the fireplace I can't see why it wouldn't be safe...just full of black crap (soot)

2) If you're going to run permanent power down there, then the fireplace would be permanently disabled, my suggestion would be to build a box by screwing cement board (or something similar) to the inside of the fireplace and tiling the inside to match when you re-tile the outside of the fireplace :D :D

You would have to frame a top "wall", and that is where you could put your AC/AV plugs, and just attach the board to the inside walls of the fireplace. The tile would get rid of any moisture problems, although I don't know where it would come from.

Keep us updated.

3) Or should I just take the MUCH easier way out and put the thing back in the corner wich would have me not go into attic to move cables to outside, as well as nt having to get power to inside of f/p (track)?

No... that's too easy. :rolleyes:

Thanks, these are the type of replies I was looking for. However getting power in the fireplace is not easy. It is obviously brick, and cannot penetrate a fp for future owner safety. I am planning on building a box but no tiling, while that would be neat, just a bit much. Thought of dropping power and sat lines down through top of chimney, but tink thats too ghetto. Also considered uner through clean out which goes outside. But am just too confused now and brain is stuck!

My two pervious CRT TVs lived long and happy lives in the fireplace. As a bonus it was the perfect location for christmas time yule log programs.

I just ran the coax etc, along the base of brick from the sidewall. After a bit you didn't even see it. Speakers and other stuff pretty much hid it. I was going to cover it with a length of moulding but the moulding is still in the garage. Anyone want some moulding and a half cord of mixed oak and eucalyptus?

My plasma sits on a cabinet and completely blocks the firebox. I did put insulation on the top and sides of the firebox.

trekguy thanks, and that is what I was thinking too. But Wifey doesn't want cables (2) and power coming from 2 different directions. Anyone have more cable/power running advice. Dealing with a normal wall would be so much easier.

trekguy thanks, and that is what I was thinking too. But Wifey doesn't want cables (2) and power coming from 2 different directions. Anyone have more cable/power running advice. Dealing with a normal wall would be so much easier.

Your raised hearth and brick bench setup is exactly what we have. Think about an L (made from two pieces of wood) or U (from three) shaped trim piece run from both sides and finished to harmonize or match your other trim. Run the cable in the channel behind the L or under the U. Use hot melt to hold the molding in place (no holes in the brick- easy removal). This leaves the fireplace intact in case you decide to sell. If you have the tools you could also just rout or rabit a groove in a piece of wood and just lay it on the brick tight to the the hearth wall.

There is also Wiremold type material, but I don't like the look.

Anything else seems to get you into drilling holes in the brick or removing the gas pipe and bringing the wire in that way--now that is a thought.

I really do like the idea of a bright orange or green extension cord running up the outside and down the chimney. You could hang christmas lights upon it.

No gas lines at all, all wood burning. Only come in would be through clean out which is a plate on bottom of f/p to the outside. While I can get those flat cables to run in the sat lines, but as far as power I cannot. Also I am on a slab. You can see from the pics, the sat, phone, and power is all over there to the right. Also there is an outlet closer to the harth to the left. Was thinking of the wire track stuff and painting it a faint gray so it is as close as possible to the mortar. Would love to chizel away some mortar to run wire along where the bench part meets the back part. But it would be very difficult to re-match up when we move. Am I right that the bench part of the harth a hollow wooden framed box with a brick front?

How about building a false wall in front of the entire fireplace? I am thinking from the mantle down to the hearth/ledge. That way you can run all the cables you need to run behind the wall, build out some shelves to hold the gear, leave the fireplace intact as a selling feature, and allows you to raise the height of the TV about a 1' if needed.

As far as the power and signal cables go is there an outlet or light switch any where on the side that you want to change the power to? Even an outlet on the wrong side of the correct wall could easily be re-wired to the correct side of the correct wall.

You could even use a nice grade plywood and stain it to match the rest of the wood trim.

Just some thoughts.

Laters,
Jeff

No gas lines at all, all wood burning. Am I right that the bench part of the harth a hollow wooden framed box with a brick front?
Sorry about the gas. :(
When I redid the family, er, media room, I thought that the brick bench was just a waste of space. I drilled a small hole near the back and side and then ran a stiff wire probe in. It seemed to me that it was one layer of brick then, then a slight resistance then nothing. Same on the other side.

So I said "Clever guy, your suspicions are confirmed. Its hollow." I talked it over with the wife and we decided that it was indeed a waste of a floor space. The plan was to remove it and then flank the wide brick chimney with built in book cases.

I rushed outside, got a wheel barrow, some tarps and a sledge hammer. John Henry like I took a mighty swing. Bricks collapsed inward--and a lot of dust arose--quite a lot. Well what I had was a 13.5 foot long pile of sand, mortar, paper, wood scrap, broken brick and the tag from some Big Ben Davis work pants. There was no interior frame, no plywood, just sand and junk. Many wheel barrow loads later I am quite happy with the new book cases, the clean look and the display blocking the hearth. Besides, after the first swing there was no turning back.

When we sell the house, I will have to install a stone or tile hearth in front of the firebox to meet code, for an operable fireplace, but that is a minor job even if I hire it done.

I did not bring power to the fireplace. Power, signal speaker wires run behind trim and the lip of the book case toe kick, where they emerge and are connected to wall plates. I went in both directions-power and right side surrounds run off to the right wall, coax, left side surrounds and sub run off to the left side.

The wire in not completely hidden-- there is a foot or two of wire that can be seen, running out from under the book cases to the receptacles in the walls.

Do you happen to have pics trekguy? Sounds like what I would love to do. Gotta say the towell is in hand and ready to be thrown. This has been going on and on for over a week and alot of arguments have insued. My head is ready to blow. Now came home tonight and the garage door opener went out. Had to take apart and replace gear, so now another set back.

What's your outside situation? I build these things here. You are on a slab? You may want to have it at mantel height cause fireplace height may cramp the neck but that's your preference. Easiest is laying wires from the right and placing wood, decorations, etc to hide the wires.

On a slab, cheap "plywood" fake cedar looking siding (I forget what its called). Closest outlet is to the left of FP while cables are to right in corner. Just a VERY dumb room layout. I would probably run sat lines out side of house and into chimney cleanout to end inside of FP. Then just run power, just not sure if it is worth all of this. Are you thinking this is a bit of a low viewing height? I think above mantel is too high.
Nobody has an issue of the cool dampness of FP being harmful to set? I cleaned it out real well, and as I said would box in all except bottom as I need the clearance.

It's your personal viewing height..And I forget what it's called, but place all your wires in a one inch slitted plastic tube(made to hold wires) and run it along the hearth. That's your easiest route besides drilling masonry. You can color the plastic tube. Place items in frount of the wires on the hearth. And enjoy, don't worry and tell the wife I've been in many houses to see work and you have no worries, believe me, your place is A1.

you build fireplaces? What is your take on the dampness for the television? It is stuffed with insulation and but it did feel a bit damp to the touch. Can I seal it off from the top?

Must be closed at top. Could be as simple as piece of slate with a brick it hold it down. But I would not seal the openning inside as an outside fireplace makes condensation. Leave a few gaps to allow air flow. And if you feed wires from the exterior clean out or vent-those I would seal. Have fun and enjoy.

Do you happen to have pics trekguy? Sounds like what I would love to do. Gotta say the towell is in hand and ready to be thrown. This has been going on and on for over a week and alot of arguments have insued. My head is ready to blow. Now came home tonight and the garage door opener went out. Had to take apart and replace gear, so now another set back.

I am the last man in America without a digital cam, so sorry no pics. But before you take the hammer to the bricks, be sure and think through how you will fill in the newly exposed floor space. It was easy for me because it was time to replace the wall to wall. I opted for a floating floor with area rugs.

Also I have some really ugly mineral wool bass traps in the corners, and they draw the eye--no one sees the cords. But even without the traps people are so used to seeing cords that a foot or two of cable running along a wall to a cover plate is not even seen.

If you leave the bench and use something to cover the cables, adding matching wood trim along every 90 degree junction (brick to brick and brick to sheet rock and floor to brick) will pull it together visually.

Anyone who repairs garage door openers should be able to handle this job.

We spent some time considering height. Above the firebox was just to high. A set in the fire box was a bit low, but OK. Your set will extend above the firebox- more nearly at eye level.

My current set is a few inches higher than if it rested in the box and is much lower than if it was above the box. It also provides space for three DVD/CD storage drawers and for the the receiver, DVR and DVD player. My wife and daughter approved the height before I cut the first sheet of birch plywood. Incidently if you do want the set a bit higher you can build a rude platform to sit in the fire box and raise the set. If it shows below the set paint it black.

Not enough room to raise the set via a platform. Wish there were as I could then put gear under it. TV slides in all but exposed 5-6". I have alot to say but am tired. I gotta get some sleep. Thanks to all so far. Progress was made tonight.
Although I still have questions about fireplace and venting. So my vapor barier plastic I laid on bottom over damp bricks is not a good thing as the moisture will spread? Ground is wet from alot of rain and bricks are porous.

Davin if you could respond about my moisture situatiopn I would appreciate it. Currently (last 2 yrs) I have insulation stuffed up at the flue door as well as in the clean out. You are saying this is not good for moisture retention? W/o the insulation in the flue door it is drafty. Wouldn't laying a piece of slate tile also prevent it from getting airflow to "breathe? I don't want the room to get any colder than it already is with vaulted ceilings and skylights it is a niply one!

Have temporarily (maybe) placed set back in corner. However it makes the 42" set a bit too small since it is further away than the fireplace. Now I miss it there, but it is a bit too low and doesnt give as much of a viwing range as the corner provides. I am just so torn and this has been dragging on for what seems like forever.
Have put a plasma/LCD back into the mix. Thoughts on that are a 40-42 above actual fireplace hole, but below the mantle. So part of the fireplace hole will be covered, part exposed. Then placing the gear inside of there. This eliminates the need for a decorative "box" up on the hearth housing the stuff. Any more thoughts? I am still a bit concerned about moisture in the fireplace. Not leaks but just moisture.

If you don't have a moisture problem now, why would you expect one?

If you have efflorescence indicating water wicking in possibly from below, you could line the the fire box with heavy plastic sheeting. Waterseal or some other masonry water block is another option.

Condensation should not be any more of a problem than it is now, if it is a problem at all. If you have blocked air at the fire box from going up the flue I don't understand how that could contribute to any condensation in the flue or in the firebox. If the flue were well packed with insulation it would hold very little air and allow only very slow exchange with the outside. But you might want to ask a local mason if condensation does occur in empty flues.

Rain or snow entering the flue from the top is a potential problem if you were to stuff the flue with insulation. I've read that once wet, insulation can take quite a while to dry. But a cap or cover should take care of that.

I just cut some fiberglass off of a roll and lined the sides and top of the firebox to slow heat loss. There is not much on can do with a 5' wide column of brick that extends through the wall to the outside. This leaves a column of colder air sitting in the flue though. I considered stuffing, have not yet done so, the entire chimney from the top. There is a spark arrester capping the flue now that keeps rain out; I would have used some 6 mil plastic (the stuff lasts for years and years to further block rain.

Thanks alot trekguy. I do not see any water leaking into the fireplace area. It does appear to wick(?) up from below as there has been alot of rain lately and ground is very wet and the floor of FP os cool and damp. I do have some very strong plastic from work that I lasid down there. It appears to be the same stuff used in crawl spaces or for vapor barier in insulating. So it is safe to lay this down on bottom to keep equipment off of it? It is okay to "trap" dampness there?
The flue door is currently stuffed with insulation and I did notice it is damp. So you say that NOT having it stuffed is actually better? I do have some spare 18" ceramic tiles that I could use to lay on chimney top. This would rid me of the worry of rain coming in. Although not much for sparating chill from entering room. Maybe line inside with 1/2" foam board? I really apreciate your input.

Oh and how about dropping sat cables down chimney? I have no other feasable way to get it in there!

Brick is porus so we should expect water to move through it. Even though I once counted several masons among my in-laws I am far from an expert on moisture problems in brick. In my previous home our fireplace would show a little efflorescence in very wet winters. The experts told me that I could just live with it or try a sealer on the outside brick or do that and undertake some expensive drain projects. The suggested a wire brush, because there was not structural damage or damage to the surrounding framing.

My current house is against a sandstone shelf and I use a sump pump to move water away from the foundation near the fireplace. We used to get standing water in the ash clean out. When that happened the floor of the firebox felt damp, but that was it.

If it were me, I would cut out a piece of plastic to fit the firebox floor and a bit up the walls. Then put it place. Watch for for a few days to see if the walls become damp or efflorescence forms. I would guess that a should feel cool in cold weather.

If your flue door is what some call a damper and it's closed and the insulation is on the firebox side it should not be wet. If your chimney is open at the top and water can flow around the damper or puddle up behind it and then drain into the insulation, the answer is to cover or cap the flue. The slate and the brick or a metal flue cover.

We don't see much in the way of either very cold weather or Atlantic or Gulf coast humidity here. But in theory the column of cold air in the flue above your insulation, and below your roof line is an energy sump. That might lead you to want to fill it with fiber glass. I think it would be OK if you took steeps to ensure that water couldn't get in. But it's not that way now so you don't have to change it.

Cable down the chimney? Why not? If you are in thunder storm country though do read up on protecting it. You will need more research or help on that one.

About this time I would begin a campaign to convince my wife that it was OK to run wire along the base of the brick. ;) Good luck. Post photos when you're done.

Well, now there is a new problem. Luckily everything is currently in the corner and not in the FP. It has rained all night and I began hearing drips. Sure enough it drips into the FO pretty good. The chimney does have a metal cap that is about 8 inches above chimney surrounded by wire screen. I am assuming that the rain was coming a bit of an angle and down the chimney. Perhaps this thing will be scrapped after all of this. Or I will try to lay a piece of the tile I have across it at top. And yes I did get her okay with the power in a "track" along front of FP.