Hi,

I was hoping somebody might be able to help with an issue I have. Way back at the beginning of this thread are instructions on how to do a DCAM convergence. I printed those out and was able do in no problem just like in the instructions. My problem is that I can't reinitialize magic focus. The instructions for doing it I think are for a different remote control than mine because when I try to follow the intructions reinitialize it doesn't work. My remote is the 4362S. Does anyone know how to do it for this remote?

Here are in the instructions from early in this thread that DON'T work with my remote:

Press PIP mode or Aspect and then PIP Ch to initilize magic focus. When the green dots appear, initialize operation in finished.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

Mark E


The designers at Hit change the buttons on the remotes on a pretty regular basis, God knows why. Chances are you'll have to make sure you have the remote for YOUR set for things to work properly in DCAM.

And that year's instro's, of course -


b

Hi,

I was hoping somebody might be able to help with an issue I have. Way back at the beginning of this thread are instructions on how to do a DCAM convergence. I printed those out and was able do in no problem just like in the instructions. My problem is that I can't reinitialize magic focus. The instructions for doing it I think are for a different remote control than mine because when I try to follow the intructions reinitialize it doesn't work. My remote is the 4362S. Does anyone know how to do it for this remote?

Here are in the instructions from early in this thread that DON'T work with my remote:

Press PIP mode or Aspect and then PIP Ch to initilize magic focus. When the green dots appear, initialize operation in finished.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

Mark E

On my 57F59A, with the same remote as yours, here's how it works:

To save: press ASPECT button, ROM WRITE is displayed on screen, press ASPECT button again to write date to ROM.

To initialize magic focus sensor data positions: press ASPECT button, then press the stop button (second button from left, on the second from bottom row of buttons, with the black box on it).

Hi,

I was hoping somebody might be able to help with an issue I have. Way back at the beginning of this thread are instructions on how to do a DCAM convergence. I printed those out and was able do in no problem just like in the instructions. My problem is that I can't reinitialize magic focus. The instructions for doing it I think are for a different remote control than mine because when I try to follow the intructions reinitialize it doesn't work. My remote is the 4362S. Does anyone know how to do it for this remote?

Here are in the instructions from early in this thread that DON'T work with my remote:

Press PIP mode or Aspect and then PIP Ch to initilize magic focus. When the green dots appear, initialize operation in finished.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

Mark E

Don't take this wrong ... but why would you want to run magic focus when you know how to do it yourself?

Magic focus is doing a automatic DCAM based on what it has in ROM. You can do a better job than what the Magic Focus can, besides with HIts you can check and adjust it in user mode and will hold the changes.

Once you learn how to do it manually, you are better off not using Magic Focus ever again. I have mine disabled as a matter of fact.

Also, be sure you'e cut the brightness of the grid by 50% or so. It makes your adjustments MUCH more precise and, I think, allows use of just the user mode for adjustments.

I concur with superleo, magic focus doesn't even come close to you doing 117 point convergence. Haven't used it on my set in 2 years.

Right to all of the above. Abandon MF, it's a joke, only made for Joe Sixpack, not for videophiles. Gets it close but never precise.

Study these threads about how to make your user grid be a lot less HOT - how to go into sm and turn the grid brightness and contrast down to half of factory level - and do just the manual convergence in user once the grid lines have been reduced to not blooming anymore, like they do on factory settings. They have nice thin lines, once the intensity has been reduced to half the factory values. Then converge to your heart's content.

It stays just fine, and you can supertweak it to max performance without even going into DCAM.


b

Did I read somewhere that Lee Bailey went DLP. Say it isn't so. Did he dump CRT altogether? I have yet seen a decently priced DLP even come close to CRT. Maybe someone has but I haven't.

Yes I did. Back in October 08. Shortly thereafter, Samsung announced they were not making DLP sets anymore(sounds familiar?). Been calibrating and tweaking the new set. As with any RPTV, there is still overscan.

Sold the old set on Ebay, did NOT make any profit on that deal.:(

I wanted to keep it, but would have had to kick one of my kids out of the house!

As for PQ, it's excellent after calibration.

You guys are awesome thanks for the fast response. Ok, point well taken on the MF. Here is another question. My set seems to loose convergence when I breathe on it. Ok, not really breath on it but if somebody bumps it even lightly I have to go back in and manually reconverge. That is why I wanted MF back. I have five kids including a 3 year old so avoiding light bumps is hard.

Is it normal that it should loose convergence that easily or do I have something wrong here. I thought maybe it had to do with me not finishing up the DCAM convergence by reinitializing MF, OK I'm ignorant, I know that.

Thanks

OK, so I get from Mr. Bob that I don't really have to do DCAM if I can lower the intensity of the standard grid in the SM. Does anybody have a link back to instructions on how to do that or remember off hand? It is BIG thread to read through.

Thanks again

OK, so I get from Mr. Bob that I don't really have to do DCAM if I can lower the intensity of the standard grid in the SM. Does anybody have a link back to instructions on how to do that or remember off hand? It is BIG thread to read through.

Thanks again

Go and check POST#3 in this thread for some stuff.

TA1360 Menu, DCUBRT and DCUCNT settings.

Here's the service manual:

57F59Service.pdf (http://www.lbaileyht.com/57F59Service.pdf)

You guys are awesome thanks for the fast response. Ok, point well taken on the MF. Here is another question. My set seems to loose convergence when I breathe on it. Ok, not really breath on it but if somebody bumps it even lightly I have to go back in and manually reconverge. That is why I wanted MF back. I have five kids including a 3 year old so avoiding light bumps is hard.

Is it normal that it should loose convergence that easily or do I have something wrong here. I thought maybe it had to do with me not finishing up the DCAM convergence by reinitializing MF, OK I'm ignorant, I know that.

Thanks

Sounds like your conv ICs have been getting loose on their solder joints, at the legs of the ICs. The heat/cold/heat/cold cycle of normal ops eventually fatigues them and causes them to go to "cold solder" status.

I would go in there and resolder those IC legs, all of them.


b

Yes I did. Back in October 08. Shortly thereafter, Samsung announced they were not making DLP sets anymore(sounds familiar?). Been calibrating and tweaking the new set. As with any RPTV, there is still overscan.

Sold the old set on Ebay, did NOT make any profit on that deal.:(

I wanted to keep it, but would have had to kick one of my kids out of the house!

As for PQ, it's excellent after calibration.

OK..the million dollar question. Does it match or exceed:eek: your old set.?????

OK..the million dollar question. Does it match or exceed:eek: your old set.?????

Exceeds. Though granted, it cannot get black down to 0, the blacks are more than adequate.

Exceeds. Though granted, it cannot get black down to 0, the blacks are more than adequate.


Remember, fixed pixel 1080 needs no structure work. No optical or electrostatic focusing, no geometry, no overscan redux, no convergence...

Whether the new one looks as good as the old one is COMPLETELY dependent on how it was set up on all that good ole structure stuff.

I will put my "own private IMAX" "fully pimped out", 73" Mit (words of others, not me...:p) up against any same-sized fixed pixel any day, and from what I've seen so far of the fixed pixel generation out there, at the same viewing distance for each, my set will win.


b

Thanks, Mr. Bob. for the comment regarding my convergence issue. I'm not too handy with electronics so I suspect I will have to have that repaired by a pro.

Didn't know there was a repair involved. Is there?

If you're looking for a repair person to do your convergence on DCAM and/or re-initialize your MF, good luck. They typically know nothing of these things.


If you have little ones who are constantly playing with your set, then re-initializing the MF might just be your best bet. Once it's been re-initialized a few times it stays pretty good. Hit's have to have their memories re-memorized several times for the changes to begin to stay properly.

Esp. if there have been massive changes in the convergence. Hit memories only grab most of the changes on each memorization pass. Same for MF.

So the more times you do it, and the smaller the changes are with each pass, the more of it stays, until it all finally stays properly.


b

Remember, fixed pixel 1080 needs no structure work. No optical or electrostatic focusing, no geometry, no overscan redux, no convergence...

Whether the new one looks as good as the old one is COMPLETELY dependent on how it was set up on all that good ole structure stuff.

I will put my "own private IMAX" "fully pimped out", 73" Mit (words of others, not me...:p) up against any same-sized fixed pixel any day, and from what I've seen so far of the fixed pixel generation out there, at the same viewing distance for each, my set will win.


b

The 73" mits looked interesting for me but I have to say the Hitachi's with their HDMI and hot screen gain are still interesting also. I looked around and I think the Hitachi is the only RPTV CRT with HDMI. I'd miss the feature with the Mits which only has component inputs. Talk me into Mits I can get one?

The 73" mits looked interesting for me but I have to say the Hitachi's with their HDMI and hot screen gain are still interesting also. I looked around and I think the Hitachi is the only RPTV CRT with HDMI. I'd miss the feature with the Mits which only has component inputs. Talk me into Mits I can get one?

My WS 73517 - last gen they ever made - has HDMI built-in, and it totally sucks. The HD Fury II, taking upconverted HDMI 1080i out from my Panny BluRay player to my display via component, is vastly superior. Not just better. VASTLY superior. So good you can use it on the much bigger front pj screens, with very expensive scalers and converters.

Don't hold out for HDMI on a set, or make it your reason for buying new. Just buy an HD Fury II, stick with a component only set, and prepare to be amazed.

I'll try and get comparison pix up here soon, but my Panny BDP puts me thru all sorts of contortions to get shots of the differing formats, so it may be awhile. I watched the regular, SD version of Half Past Dead - the latest Steven Segall vehicle, I really liked it - on my HD Fury II via component on my 73" CRT Mit, and it looked just like HD. After a few minutes you totally forgot you were watching video at all, you felt like you were in a movie theater. That doesn't happen for me in 480p.

I tried watching the same stuff via the built-in Mit HDMI, and had to shut it down in less than a minute. Just couldn't stand it.

HD Fury II rocks!

;)

b

I have a problem with my Hitachi 65F59A. I have three Dots that float randomly around the screen one yellow one pink one blue in a cluster they are very light but annoying what is going on with my TV?

Could be totally off base, but maybe a bug got into your set and is walking around? I've seen this happen before on other RPCRT's -- should die off or bug out shortly... (sorry, couldn't resist) ;)

I have a problem with my Hitachi 65F59A. I have three Dots that float randomly around the screen one yellow one pink one blue in a cluster they are very light but annoying what is going on with my TV?

If the blue is actually turquoise, those are the corrolary colors, the result of a primary color being missing from the 3. Yellow is red/green, or lack of blue. Pink is red/blue, or lack of green. Turquoise is blue/green, or lack of red.

If they were fixed you'd have to worry about your phosphors having been damaged permanently, but if they are floating, that would not be the case.

DK, but I would not allow this to keep going on. If any one of them becomes fixed it could cause screenburn by being a fixed image, and "burning in" over time.


b

Could be totally off base, but maybe a bug got into your set and is walking around? I've seen this happen before on other RPCRT's -- should die off or bug out shortly... (sorry, couldn't resist) ;)

That could very well be it, as the colors come from 3 different directions. Or it could be an airborn bug, like a fly, in which case you'd ONLY see the dots and not the black shadow of a crawling bug.

If the dots get farther apart and then closer together, that would be the fly getting closer to the screen, then farther away.

If so, enjoy the light show! Till he exits stage South in a few weeks, due to old age...


b

It could be the TV looks great perfect color. The spots are on all inputs and have no pattern of movement. The TV is 65" and the dots are about 6" wide total.

It could be the TV looks great perfect color. The spots are on all inputs and have no pattern of movement. The TV is 65" and the dots are about 6" wide total.

The dots are 6" wide, or small and 6" apart?

b

The dots stay the same size 2" tall and 6" wide for all three dots.

The dots stay the same size 2" tall and 6" wide for all three dots.

That's pretty big for dots! If they were to be concentrated, they would be dangerous for the phosphors.


b

They are transparent at this time they move side to side or start in one corner and move up and down until they have been all over the screen this is beyond me to figure out.

Unplug the set over night. Maybe there's a reset button you could try also.

They are transparent at this time they move side to side or start in one corner and move up and down until they have been all over the screen this is beyond me to figure out.

This sounds like a screen saver. Are they there when you're on an black, unused input? If not if could be your source that's at fault rather than your display.

b

I have a problem with my Hitachi 65F59A. I have three Dots that float randomly around the screen one yellow one pink one blue in a cluster they are very light but annoying what is going on with my TV?

What sources are connected to the TV?

Any correlation that this happens when you pause the image for extended periods of time, or the DVD is left on the welcome screen for too long?

I side with Bob, it sure sounds like a screen saver is kicking on.

Does it happen while you have an active picture on?

Hope its a screen saver cause if not it dont sound good!

Doing my shimming today on a 51f59A...well thanks to superleo's advice about pulling the whole insides out to get those damn three screws! There was no way I was getting those off otherwise, much easier to pull the whole innards out and do it.

I put the screen back on enough to do a quick overscan check - looks like I'm down to around 2.5% top/bottom and 3-4% on the sides (was 4.5% / 6% respectively before). A little hard to be accurate since convergence is off so bad right now. Didn't seem to cause as much geometry issues as I expected though.

Anyway, I can still put another paint-stick or two in there to get more out, but it looks like I've hit the limit on the top at least, as it's "blanking out" as others have run into. Any way around this, or is that it? I can adjust the horizontal position to get rid of it, but that means top is at 3% or so and bottom is around 2%.

Your t/b need to match your s/s o'scan %'s, if you expect a circle to be a circle afterwards. 1-2% difference between them is way too much, making your circle into an oval.

That said, the paint sticks are not how you do the vertical centering of the hor material. You do that by sliding the CRT array forwards/towards you or away from you.

The sizing pots allow you to fill out the phosphor faces better as well, utilizing more of them, as long as your faces don't have any aging footprint on them, which would show up if you did that.


b

Doing my shimming today on a 51f59A...well thanks to superleo's advice about pulling the whole insides out to get those damn three screws! There was no way I was getting those off otherwise, much easier to pull the whole innards out and do it.

I put the screen back on enough to do a quick overscan check - looks like I'm down to around 2.5% top/bottom and 3-4% on the sides (was 4.5% / 6% respectively before). A little hard to be accurate since convergence is off so bad right now. Didn't seem to cause as much geometry issues as I expected though.

Anyway, I can still put another paint-stick or two in there to get more out, but it looks like I've hit the limit on the top at least, as it's "blanking out" as others have run into. Any way around this, or is that it? I can adjust the horizontal position to get rid of it, but that means top is at 3% or so and bottom is around 2%.

If you want a OS with no feathering issues on the sides then you should shoot for 3%, it is possible to go down to 2.5% or lower if you work with the sides and don't mind some minor inperfections. These sets have and issue with the top too. Even if you move the Blanking setting for the top there is no way to reduce it, might be a bug on the firmware or just the way it was designed, either way you are limited around 2% on top.

If you want perfect, or close to perfect geometry, be prepared to measure and re do the DCAM, there is no other way around it. The best way of doing this is with the string method that Michael (FirstButNotLeast) showed earlier.

If you are having issues on top before adjusting anything try physically centering the picture by moving the array up or down. It does have some play, before you screw it down.

Another observation that happened on my system. By doing the shimming the overall brightness (foot lamberts (fL)) of the set went considerably higher. The readings before shimming on my set were around 34fL and went to 40Fl. So overall calibration was needed in my case. Lastly, mechanical focus is crucial since the focal point was moved closer to the mirror. It might not seem that it needs to be focus but it does.

Good luck, I'm sure once you finish the mod you'll be very please with the result. Let us know how it goes and post some pics if you can.

Yes I did move the entire array around to get it where it needed to be. There is more picture on the bottom than the top, and I'm not sure I see any way around that due to the blanking. I think the final distance the array moved up is a little more than 1.25" between the board that was under the array and the painst sticks. After doing a quick convergence, it looks like the t/b is around 2.5% and the sides about 3%. I also had to cut my lens hood down significantly, but it's all back together now with the duvetyne lining again.

I did the mechanical focus, I'm losing some sharpness at the sides but that's how it was before, just a little more noticable now, mainly on text. Today I'm going to do the string method to tackle geometry and tighten up the convergence. On first glance of a circle-hatch-grid screen, the circles weren't too bad.

I looked at a few discs last night and already I can tell a nice difference in the picture. It's really noticable on 2.35:1 material that I've watched before - there is definitely more picture there and it just seems more "solid" overall. And text isn't getting cutoff the screen anymore on tv and games, which is what I really wanted. I'll continue to tweak with it, but so far I'm very pleased. If I can figure out how to take some decent pics I will.

If you are having issues on top before adjusting anything try physically centering the picture by moving the array up or down. It does have some play, before you screw it down.

This statement is ambiguous, Leo. "up or down" can be interpreted as adding more shimming, to raise the level of the CRT array. Not! At least in this instance/context.

The way to recenter your image vertically is to move the CRT array forwards or back - towards you, the viewer, or away from you the viewer.

I realize that some arrays are on a slant - like mine on my Mit - and that "up or down" could be interpreted correctly on a display like mine. But I think the Hit's are on a flat plane, right? As such, forward and back is much more accurate than up and down, for the vertical centering.



Another observation that happened on my system. By doing the shimming the overall brightness (foot lamberts (fL)) of the set went considerably higher. The readings before shimming on my set were around 34fL and went to 40Fl. So overall calibration was needed in my case. Lastly, mechanical focus is crucial since the focal point was moved closer to the mirror. It might not seem that it needs to be focus but it does.

Good luck, I'm sure once you finish the mod you'll be very please with the result. Let us know how it goes and post some pics if you can.

Had not noticed the light level increasing on mine from the shimming, great perk!

For the optical focusing - definitely needed with shimming, I totally agree that it's subtle and almost unnoticeable but still absolutely necessary - I recommend the Cantilever Technique.


BTW, looking forward to perusing the custom-tailored BD DVDs you sent. Still have not taken the time to really relax and break them out and give them their just due, but with the end of all the great HD broadcast series' this year now - 24, Gray's Anatomy, the last 2 BSG episodes from a little while ago that I still haven't had time to watch, Boston Legal gone forever now :( etc - there should be more time soon...

;)

Still need to get time to install my glass mirror in place of the mylar one as well...


b

This statement is ambiguous, Leo. "up or down" can be interpreted as adding more shimming, to raise the level of the CRT array. Not! At least in this instance/context.

b

Thanks for the clarification ... sometimes it seems clear to me, but you are right, up or down would mean extra shimming... front or back as well as right or left would mean physically to the array.

Regarding the blanking issue, the bottom can be moved as well as right and left; although if you go to far you start affecting the opposite side. If you go to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1129800&highlight=rpcrt+shimming I posted the blanking settings.

Bob, I'm still waiting for you to post some screen shots of Coleen and friends, I know you'll enjoy it, I sure did.

Thanks for the clarification ... sometimes it seems clear to me, but you are right, up or down would mean extra shimming... front or back as well as right or left would mean physically to the array.

Regarding the blanking issue, the bottom can be moved as well as right and left; although if you go to far you start affecting the opposite side. If you go to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1129800&highlight=rpcrt+shimming I posted the blanking settings.

Bob, I'm still waiting for you to post some screen shots of Coleen and friends, I know you'll enjoy it, I sure did.

I'm with everyone else on the top blanking issue. This set seems to have that limit, defect..whatever. Anyway its not a deal killer. Love my set since the shim, and shemp(*&^%%$ whatever its called mod.

Some examples of the gains of the shimming mod. clearer and complete visible picture.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/formula1/100_2542.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/formula1/100_2544.jpg

I have been trying to change some of the service menu settings to the settings that are recommended at the very beginning of this thread but the new settings never get saved every time that I exit then service menu the settings go back to what they were before I changed them

Could somebody please help me out

After each change you gotta hit the Enter button on your remote, move onto the next change, hit it with each change to memorize the change.

The menu will be advanced to the next register each time the Enter button has saved the new setting on each register dealt with.


b

After each change you gotta hit the Enter button on your remote, move onto the next change, hit it with each change to memorize the change.

The menu will be advanced to the next register each time the Enter button has saved the new setting on each register dealt with.


b

Which is why it's so important to WRITE DOWN YOUR ORIGINAL SETTINGS.
And welcome to the board.

Which is why it's so important to WRITE DOWN YOUR ORIGINAL SETTINGS.
And welcome to the board.

true..true. Let us know how the changes effect your viewing pleasure. I dont even remember anymore what my set looked like OOB. I know it kinda sucked at that time but cant picture it anymore.

I saw a really bad looking Sony 61" 4x3 HDready today, unfocused and unconverged, but the owner was still blitzed by his great picture because of how nice the colorations were. I tried to convince him of how much better it would look with the proper attention, but he's a college student and I remember how much I wanted to accept so little at that time, too, since anything that cost any appreciable amount of money back then was just hopelessly out of reach...

So I graciously simply got his picture back for him at a very economical price and left him with his "awesome!" Sony picture...


b

well at least he saw the value in doing something with his set. He even went a step further by hiring the West Coast Pro himself.

A few days ago I hooked up my laptop to the HDMI connection to watch a video. I have been doing this off and on for 2 months with no problem. However, this last time I noticed the audio was not syncing with the picture, and suddenly the picture turned a brick read color and I had vertical lines rolling. I paused the video, and started it again without further issue. Today I noticed the color was not right and discovered I have no red; many user menu adjustments later and no red. Did a magic focus and saw red during the adjustment, but still no red from the cable box on input 4, nor on the dvd player using input 3. Any suggestions that does not require a new lamp?

A few days ago I hooked up my laptop to the HDMI connection to watch a video. I have been doing this off and on for 2 months with no problem. However, this last time I noticed the audio was not syncing with the picture, and suddenly the picture turned a brick read color and I had vertical lines rolling. I paused the video, and started it again without further issue. Today I noticed the color was not right and discovered I have no red; many user menu adjustments later and no red. Did a magic focus and saw red during the adjustment, but still no red from the cable box on input 4, nor on the dvd player using input 3. Any suggestions that does not require a new lamp?

It could be just an HDMI issue - or not.

I assume you never had Hitachi fix the HDMI bugs that plagued the F59s.

There were 2 HDMI fixes that Hitachi issued after the F59s were released. One was a basic service menu level job that involved changing a few parameters. The 2nd involved the swapping out of the set's main board with a new one that had a modified HDMI section.

IF you look back to the 1st few pages of this thread, you'll find the service menu fix that I posted here. All instructions on what to do are posted - it's an easy fix that does not really require a service call. Most F59-ers here did it themselves.

It gets mentioned here as well, but there is a thread on this board that is specifically for F59 "HDMI Shift Issues" & covers the stories of those who got the board swapped. This job does require a service tech, but AFAIK, Hitachi is still picking up the tab for repairs. I was one of Hitachi's first guinea pigs for field testing the board swap. Totally fixed all my HDMI issues. Performance of my Panny Bluray player inthat HDMI slot since the fix has been flawless since.

A little searching of the RPTV forum should get you what you need.

And yes - the HDMI issues would also affect the other inputs as well from time to time. The fact that Magic Focus still displays red tells me your red CRT gun is probably fine. Issues involved several things, including various random color "freakouts" as well as the actual shifting of the image horizontally from time to time.

It could be just an HDMI issue - or not.

I assume you never had Hitachi fix the HDMI bugs that plagued the F59s.

There were 2 HDMI fixes that Hitachi issued after the F59s were released. One was a basic service menu level job that involved changing a few parameters. The 2nd involved the swapping out of the set's main board with a new one that had a modified HDMI section.

IF you look back to the 1st few pages of this thread, you'll find the service menu fix that I posted here. All instructions on what to do are posted - it's an easy fix that does not really require a service call. Most F59-ers here did it themselves.

It gets mentioned here as well, but there is a thread on this board that is specifically for F59 "HDMI Shift Issues" & covers the stories of those who got the board swapped. This job does require a service tech, but AFAIK, Hitachi is still picking up the tab for repairs. I was one of Hitachi's first guinea pigs for field testing the board swap. Totally fixed all my HDMI issues. Performance of my Panny Bluray player inthat HDMI slot since the fix has been flawless since.

A little searching of the RPTV forum should get you what you need.

And yes - the HDMI issues would also affect the other inputs as well from time to time. The fact that Magic Focus still displays red tells me your red CRT gun is probably fine. Issues involved several things, including various random color "freakouts" as well as the actual shifting of the image horizontally from time to time.
Wow, thank you. Lots and lots of great information, which I will do first thing in the morning. I will post results of the working solution as my humble contribution to this wonderful forum. Thanks so much!

Wow, thank you. Lots and lots of great information, which I will do first thing in the morning. I will post results of the working solution as my humble contribution to this wonderful forum. Thanks so much!

If you haven't done the board switch out I would do it fast while Hitachi is still willing to do it.

Hi, having some issues with my 3 year old Hitachi 51F59A. About once a day the TV just turns itself off by itself. I am able to turn it back on, but its very annoying when watching something and it just goes off. A friend of mine told me that you better save your money for a new TV as its going to die on me. Any advice on what the problem could be? Its turns itself off at different times each day and the sleep timer is off on the TV. Is this TV now doomed for death?

Hi, having some issues with my 3 year old Hitachi 51F59A. About once a day the TV just turns itself off by itself. I am able to turn it back on, but its very annoying when watching something and it just goes off. A friend of mine told me that you better save your money for a new TV as its going to die on me. Any advice on what the problem could be? Its turns itself off at different times each day and the sleep timer is off on the TV. Is this TV now doomed for death?


See some of the below info on this page.....are you using the HDMI input? One of the many HDMI issues these sets had were random power offs if an HDMI cable was attached (and did not matter if you were actually using the HDMI in or not @ the time). The issues have been fixed, but would require you to contact Hitachi to get it taken care of.

If not using HDMI - then I leave it to those smarter than me regarding such things.

See some of the below info on this page.....are you using the HDMI input? One of the many HDMI issues these sets had were random power offs if an HDMI cable was attached (and did not matter if you were actually using the HDMI in or not @ the time). The issues have been fixed, but would require you to contact Hitachi to get it taken care of.

If not using HDMI - then I leave it to those smarter than me regarding such things.

This problem started happening about 2 weeks ago. I do use HDMI for my dvd player. I use component video for my satellite. However i have been using HDMI for 2 years now with no issues. I doubt that would all of a sudden become a problem. I'll do some testing and remove the HDMI cable and see if it still turns off. But if thats not the problem what else could it be?

A few days ago I hooked up my laptop to the HDMI connection to watch a video. I have been doing this off and on for 2 months with no problem. However, this last time I noticed the audio was not syncing with the picture, and suddenly the picture turned a brick read color and I had vertical lines rolling. I paused the video, and started it again without further issue. Today I noticed the color was not right and discovered I have no red; many user menu adjustments later and no red. Did a magic focus and saw red during the adjustment, but still no red from the cable box on input 4, nor on the dvd player using input 3. Any suggestions that does not require a new lamp?

Try a new cable. Easy and cheap (just like me).
Also, if possible, try the same thing with another computer.
Probably not the red gun.
Get the HDMI fix from Hitachi as suggested ASAP (read that thread for useful advise).

an update about my Hitachi 51F59A. i did some testing, disconnected the HDMI cable and the TV still turned itself off in the evening. It usually happens sometime between 9 and 11 pm. It happens every night like clockwork. Is there anything else i could do to stop this? A friend of mine told me my TV is overheating and that's the reason the TV is turning itself off? Any way to prevent this? I would prefer not to buy a new TV since i love the picture quality of this one. Its gives better picture than my 42" LCD that i have in another room.

I saw a really bad looking Sony 61" 4x3 HDready today, unfocused and unconverged, but the owner was still blitzed by his great picture because of how nice the colorations were. I tried to convince him of how much better it would look with the proper attention, but he's a college student and I remember how much I wanted to accept so little at that time, too, since anything that cost any appreciable amount of money back then was just hopelessly out of reach...

So I graciously simply got his picture back for him at a very economical price and left him with his "awesome!" Sony picture...


b

I know someone trying to get rid of a 63 inch sony HD ready 4 x 3 old XBR. It is in the New York area. Anyone who wants it can get it for free if they move it. If you knwo anyone interested let me know. First come , first serve.

an update about my Hitachi 51F59A. i did some testing, disconnected the HDMI cable and the TV still turned itself off in the evening. It usually happens sometime between 9 and 11 pm. It happens every night like clockwork. Is there anything else i could do to stop this? A friend of mine told me my TV is overheating and that's the reason the TV is turning itself off? Any way to prevent this? I would prefer not to buy a new TV since i love the picture quality of this one. Its gives better picture than my 42" LCD that i have in another room.

Contact Hit and see what they say.


b

Hey everyone not sure if this would be the correct place but I cant seem to find anything out on an issue I'm having with my 51'. The issue is that it has two thick translucent lines that run vertically bottom to top. Also it has this shaking issue where the screen jolts up and down. Any suggestions I was thinking of opening it up and cleaning it out but not sure how hard that would be or are there any diagrams that could help me??

Sounds like hum bars to me, if the lines are horizontal and scroll up or down, which are caused by either too much or too little grounding between components.

Cleaning is another matter. You gotta be SUPER careful, as the optics are fragile and easily - and permanently - scratched, with the wrong methods and practices.


b

an update about my Hitachi 51F59A. i did some testing, disconnected the HDMI cable and the TV still turned itself off in the evening. It usually happens sometime between 9 and 11 pm. It happens every night like clockwork. Is there anything else i could do to stop this? A friend of mine told me my TV is overheating and that's the reason the TV is turning itself off? Any way to prevent this? I would prefer not to buy a new TV since i love the picture quality of this one. Its gives better picture than my 42" LCD that i have in another room.

Have you done the HDMI fix and had the DCU block change out yet? I know before I did the service menu fix mine would shut off but it was more irregular.

So what would be best to eliminate the hum bars?

So what would be best to eliminate the hum bars?

Disco everything - all your sources - and see if the bars are still there. Then one by one reconn everything and find the offending source.

Usually if you have cable it's the cable coax, and if so a ground isolator for your coax line will be in order, which allows the sig thru inductively without the grounds actually touching each other.


b

Disco everything - all your sources - and see if the bars are still there. Then one by one reconn everything and find the offending source.

Usually if you have cable it's the cable coax, and if so a ground isolator for your coax line will be in order, which allows the sig thru inductively without the grounds actually touching each other.


b

Sounds to simple so it must be correct.

Some of you may remember back in Feb my 2 year old cracked my screen on my 51F59A. Thanks to SummitTV I was given a heads up about a 51" Hitachi on Craigslist reasonably near me. It was a 51F710A that some mice apparently got into it and chewed up the guts. The screen itself is in perfect condition and has a protective screen over it (hopefully that'll keep my son from cracking this one if my idea works).

After reading some more about the 51F710A's they are very close to our 51F59A's so I'm hoping I can just switch out the bezel with good screen (maybe paint the gray bezel black later on). I got the TV real cheap and I got it back safely, at least as far as the screen is concerned I am unware of the internals (we had to lay the TV on it's back to fit in the truck since there's a cap on it).

When removing the TV from the truck we looked to see how the mice might've gotten into the TV and we couldn't find anything. It has the same little holes like the 51F59A but we did notice that the power cord had been chewed up. Unfortunately I had to go to work (3rd shift yay!) so I was unable to put on a new plug to see if it works (how cool would that be? lol) nor see if the bezel is a direct screw on replacement.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a better update and provide information to anyone who maybe in a similar situation with a xxF59A or xxF710A and if the screen can be swapped between the two models.

Ryan

Muahaha!! I have created a... MONSTER!

I can confirm that the 51F59A and 51F710A have the same bezel. So basically now I have a new screen on my TV and it didn't cost me $400. :D

Before:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/screen01.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/screen02.jpg

Now:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/hybrid02.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/hybrid01.jpg


I don't really like that the screen is glossy now due to the extra protective screen BUT it's a lot less noticeable than two cracks in the screen. Even though my 2 year old hasn't attacked the screen since the incident, I do have a layer of protection I did not have before so I can't really complain.

Next project will be to paint the bezel black... I don't think I can get used to the gray.

Regarding the 51F710A... I spliced the power cord back together and it did power up for a min. My dad says it displayed CATV or something like that in the corner but then the picture disappeared. I looked inside and I did not see any other damage myself but it sure was dusty as hell in there. I used some compressed air to clean it out. So now it sits. I heard that the 51F710A has a glass mirror and I'm thinking of swapping that out at some point for the mylar mirror of the 51F59A.

Ryan

Grats man!

Just wanted to thank everyone for helping me get to the point I am now with my sweet 65 incher. I couldn't have done it without you guys, and boy is my pic spectacular now.

Also wanted to have my 1,000th post in this thread, the thread I've spent most of my time and effort in. Thanks again guys.

And yeah, if you don't have a 65" set, go get one, the difference is remarkable.

Just wanted to thank everyone for helping me get to the point I am now with my sweet 65 incher. I couldn't have done it without you guys, and boy is my pic spectacular now.

Also wanted to have my 1,000th post in this thread, the thread I've spent most of my time and effort in. Thanks again guys.

And yeah, if you don't have a 65" set, go get one, the difference is remarkable.

What wont be remarkable is my wife killing me. She already wants my 51" gone for a flatscreen that would look better in the living room.

Hey is anyone having problems with the edges losing sharpness after the shimming. I had this question asked of me.

Muahaha!! I have created a... MONSTER!

I can confirm that the 51F59A and 51F710A have the same bezel. So basically now I have a new screen on my TV and it didn't cost me $400. :D

Before:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/screen01.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/screen02.jpg

Now:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/hybrid02.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x27/Dodkrieg/hybrid01.jpg


I don't really like that the screen is glossy now due to the extra protective screen BUT it's a lot less noticeable than two cracks in the screen. Even though my 2 year old hasn't attacked the screen since the incident, I do have a layer of protection I did not have before so I can't really complain.

Next project will be to paint the bezel black... I don't think I can get used to the gray.

Regarding the 51F710A... I spliced the power cord back together and it did power up for a min. My dad says it displayed CATV or something like that in the corner but then the picture disappeared. I looked inside and I did not see any other damage myself but it sure was dusty as hell in there. I used some compressed air to clean it out. So now it sits. I heard that the 51F710A has a glass mirror and I'm thinking of swapping that out at some point for the mylar mirror of the 51F59A.

Ryan

BTW that first shot was so good it looked 3-D. I had to look twice to make sure that guy was still inside your set or coming to life.

[QUOTE=|Tch0rT| I heard that the 51F710A has a glass mirror and I'm thinking of swapping that out at some point for the mylar mirror of the 51F59A.

Ryan[/QUOTE]

Want to hear about that! I am told that the difference gets you 25% more light level and that the color spectra are a lot more complete with the glass mirror vs. the mylar.


b

Hey is anyone having problems with the edges losing sharpness after the shimming. I had this question asked of me.


Have you redone your optical focus, preferably with the Cantilever Technique? If not that's your answer.


b

I heard that the 51F710A has a glass mirror and I'm thinking of swapping that out at some point for the mylar mirror of the 51F59A.

I have the 51f59a and do an optics cleaning every 6 months. I beleive the mirror that is used in that model is already glass , and not mylar.
ruffo66

Have you redone your optical focus, preferably with the Cantilever Technique? If not that's your answer.


b

Yea I did but someone else asked me in a PM. When I did the schempt*&^%$ thing I eliminated the red blur on the left side but introduced it a little on the right. Couldn't find a happy medium that worked. Its not that bad so I live with it for now. I personally didn't have the problem with the shim making the sides blurry but someone else did and it got me thinking about it.

I heard that the 51F710A has a glass mirror and I'm thinking of swapping that out at some point for the mylar mirror of the 51F59A.

I have the 51f59a and do an optics cleaning every 6 months. I beleive the mirror that is used in that model is already glass , and not mylar.
ruffo66

As I thought, but, according to page 14 of the service manual, it's a "second surface" mirror (the silver coating is on the back, just like your bathroom mirror). A front surface mirror is less prone to distortion, but I can't imagine you'd notice a difference at 51". Certainly (AFAIC), way more trouble than it would be worth (unless the whole top section of the 710 is exactly the same size as the 59, then you could just swap the whole thing, screen and all).

Is a "second surface" mirror, a mylar mirror?

ruffo66

Is a "second surface" mirror, a mylar mirror?

ruffo66

No, mylar is a reflective plastic film made by DuPont.
Go to your bathroom and put your fingernail on the mirror. The gap between your nail and its reflection is the thickness of the glass; the silver is on the back. A "first (or front) surface" mirror has the silver on the front, so there is no gap between the object and its reflection.
Front surface mirrors don't have the distortion of the glass, but the silver is unprotected, so it scratches easily. Dental mouth mirrors, for example, are (usually) front surface.

Yea I did but someone else asked me in a PM. When I did the schempt*&^%$ thing I eliminated the red blur on the left side but introduced it a little on the right. Couldn't find a happy medium that worked. Its not that bad so I live with it for now. I personally didn't have the problem with the shim making the sides blurry but someone else did and it got me thinking about it.

If the overscan is reduced too much, the sides will get blurry. Even with the shimming, there will be a certain amount of overscan, probably about 2% - 3%.

If the overscan is reduced too much, the sides will get blurry. Even with the shimming, there will be a certain amount of overscan, probably about 2% - 3%.

I'm sitting about 2.5 to 3%. In reality I cant notice any blur with content up so I dont worry about it.

Yeah, I think it's overkill to require the extreme edges be perfect, as you never look at them on video material. You may need that on a computer with icons, but not on video material.

My fully "pimped out" 73" Mit still has vertical slop on most of the hor. edges for the final 2-3" on each side.

But again, who cares? It's much better to have the part you REALLY watch being tits'd out with super high precision convergence and shimmed up concentration of pixel density, than to have less "slop" at the final 2-3" on a 73" screen.

Or 1-2" all around, just at the edges, on anything smaller.

On a ceiling pj it could be taken care of properly, but they just didn't design these CRT RPTVs with that kind of depth and expansiveness to the design. It just wasn't in the budget. ANY kind of o'scan redux will reveal the feathering at the final edges of the sides, vertically, on most of the screen's side edges.


b

My fully "pimped out" 73" Mit still has vertical slop on most of the hor. edges for the final 2-3" on each side.
b

Maybe, if you get off your butt and install that glass mirror, you'll get rid of that "vertical slop."
;)
Is that an ISF official technical term, by the way?

Maybe, if you get off your butt and install that glass mirror, you'll get rid of that "vertical slop."
;)
Is that an ISF official technical term, by the way?

Anybody know where you can mirrors from other than another set switch out?:confused::confused:

Maybe, if you get off your butt and install that glass mirror, you'll get rid of that "vertical slop."
;)
Is that an ISF official technical term, by the way?

Hey, come over and we'll do it together!

No not an ISF term, it's an official Image Perfection term!

:D


b

Anybody know where you can mirrors from other than another set switch out?:confused::confused:

www.highreflectivemirrors.com, out of Santa Rosa. That's where I got mine.

Yeah, the one that's sitting in my garage...


:p

b

...
My fully "pimped out" 73" Mit ...


b

Not completely "pimped out" until you, with Michaels assistance, switch the mirror.:p

Not completely "pimped out" until you, with Michaels assistance, switch the mirror.:p

Right, I gotta stop using that word "fully" until that's done...

;)

b

Hey, come over and we'll do it together!

No not an ISF term, it's an official Image Perfection term!

:D


b

You know I would LOVE to do that. Unfortunately, there's the entire expanse of the US in between. Fortunately, I am available for phone consultation.
;)

OK I bought my wife a flatscreen LCD for the bedroom. The good news is you can see both TV's from one vantage point in the bedroom. Right off the bat I put the sets on a good HD movie. The difference in black level was very stark. My set blew the LCD away. Colors are also better. The LCD does have a sharp image with a good overall PQ. Detail is good also. It was about equal to mine. The Hit had the best cinematic look while the LCD had the more glossy look. Kinda like a real good film picture and a digital one. Overall the CRT RP beat the Flat panel.

Hope you don't mind, Mustang, but I am going to reprint this over at the Don't Dump thread -

;)


b

Hope you don't mind, Mustang, but I am going to reprint this over at the Don't Dump thread -

;)


b

Please do.

What people dont realize is how lush and deep the colors are on a CRT when compared to a LCD. The LCD can make an image of a figure in 1080p look separate from the rest of the pic. Like a shot of Johnny Depp in Pirates. The way I view it is like an image raised off another image. A pop up book would be an accurate comparison. My HIt and the other CRT based tech makes the picture rich. It almost feels like you can walk into the scene. I guess both have their admirers. This is just my poor explanation of how I see it.

BTW that first shot was so good it looked 3-D. I had to look twice to make sure that guy was still inside your set or coming to life.

It might've looked 3D cuz the convergence was off LOL! But yeah it still looked good and it looks better now after I did the convergence. I don't know if what I see is purely psychological due to being happy I have my screen fixed and it was cheap BUT I swear the picture is sharper and the colors have a little more pop to them. It seems like convergence is easier to see if the red and blue are off. So either it's psychological, my kids finger prints over the last year really degraded the sharpness of the picture or the 5xF710's have a better screen.

I dunno, doesn't matter. I'm quite happy with my 51F59A and the set still makes me go "WOW!" on some nice HD material even after over 2 years of owning the set.

Ryan

a forum newbie here wants to leave his gratitude to jwebb1970, lee, Mr Bob and everybody who posted their experiences......very much appreciated.

I did some of the basic tweaks like the HDMI fix ,colorg and statg2...my video settings will be posted very soon but i follow the ranges where there's no contrast above 40 and enhancements off, and i believe the picture looks so awesome at this point....thanks again.

What i need some help is how to set up the audio at this set, happens that my u-verse cable is set to use the tv audio and someytimes i got too low volumes besides i have the level at 25 and i set the trembles at 80, bass 45 surround off, loudeness on, perfect volume on....am i doing something wrong? any help will be appreciated.

We'll after 4 good years of viewing, I am moving on from CRT Tech. My Hitachi will go to my cousin & I will be purchasing a TOSHIBA 55ZV670U LED TV. I have seen 1 in person (professionally calibrated) the picture is beautiful.

We have renovated our Family Room & the final piece is a NEW TV. It's been a bitter sweet run. I know my cousin will appreciate the HITACHI as much as we have.

Mr. Bob thanks so much for everything. To all the other owners who continue to own these sets here hoping the best..

Be well everyone & enjoy your summer

We'll after 4 good years of viewing, I am moving on from CRT Tech. My Hitachi will go to my cousin & I will be purchasing a TOSHIBA 55ZV670U LED TV. I have seen 1 in person (professionally calibrated) the picture is beautiful.

We have renovated our Family Room & the final piece is a NEW TV. It's been a bitter sweet run. I know my cousin will appreciate the HITACHI as much as we have.

Mr. Bob thanks so much for everything. To all the other owners who continue to own these sets here hoping the best..

Be well everyone & enjoy your summer

We'll miss you. Your contributions were always greatly appreciated.
Enjoy your new set. And give your cousin our "address"!
Michael

What i need some help is how to set up the audio at this set, happens that my u-verse cable is set to use the tv audio and someytimes i got too low volumes besides i have the level at 25 and i set the trembles at 80, bass 45 surround off, loudeness on, perfect volume on....am i doing something wrong? any help will be appreciated.

First thing to try is turning perfect volume off. It's trying to "balance" everything, and may be getting it wrong.
BTW, any particular reason you're not using a receiver (though the sound, for a TV, is pretty darn good)?
Could, of course, just be the channels. Don't watch a lot of broadcast TV myself, but if you post your specific system, someone may have something similar.

We'll after 4 good years of viewing, I am moving on from CRT Tech. My Hitachi will go to my cousin & I will be purchasing a TOSHIBA 55ZV670U LED TV. I have seen 1 in person (professionally calibrated) the picture is beautiful.

We have renovated our Family Room & the final piece is a NEW TV. It's been a bitter sweet run. I know my cousin will appreciate the HITACHI as much as we have.

Mr. Bob thanks so much for everything. To all the other owners who continue to own these sets here hoping the best..

Be well everyone & enjoy your summer

Congrats! I've not seen one of these calibrated, but just from what I've seen in the store, they seem to have great potential. Let us know what you think when you get it and get it calibrated.

sorry for just kinda jumping in here but I am about to purchase a 57" hitachi rear projection. The question /help i am searching for it appears the top and bottom can be seperated for transport etc Is this a job an average or just a little above average electrician/electronics person can do and will it effect the picture etc after transporting 60-80 miles.

I would not separate the 2 halves unless absolutely necessary. They may fit back together just right, but maybe not.

Make sure to put down half a dozen unbuilt UHaul boxes under it for the trip. They are made of triple corrugated cardboard and neutralize road shock like nobody's biz. If kept unbuilt they can be sold back to UH at the other end.

Not a Hit owner tho, so I'll let someone else take it from here -


b

I would not separate the 2 halves unless absolutely necessary. They may fit back together just right, but maybe not.

Make sure to put down half a dozen unbuilt UHaul boxes under it for the trip. They are made of triple corrugated cardboard and neutralize road shock like nobody's biz. If kept unbuilt they can be sold back to UH at the other end.

Not a Hit owner tho, so I'll let someone else take it from here -


b

The manual that comes with it makes it look pretty easy. It looks like Hit made it easy to do. None of the hardware guts are involved so all your taking off is the top half with the mirror and screen. As a matter of fact it only has a 7 step procedure. I wouldn't be afraid to do it on this set if you had the manual. Thats me though. You should consider moving it as a whole unit if you can. Plus mine is a 51 inch so there may be variables.

Well my wife is willing to allow me to build a fancy shelving unit around the Hit. It takes up a whole lot of room in the upstairs living room so she's been pretty gracious. Given my recent PQ test with the LCD FP though its worth it. The richness of the colors and detail just can't be matched. I always knew the Black Level was better on these sets but its simply amazing when you can do a side by side comparison. I wish I had a middle to upper Plasma around to see what they can do next to mine. Also the Grayscale can't be much off cause the LCD and Hit look pretty darn close on the colors and B/W Material.

Well my wife is willing to allow me to build a fancy shelving unit around the Hit. It takes up a whole lot of room in the upstairs living room so she's been pretty gracious. Given my recent PQ test with the LCD FP though its worth it.

I just took my existing wall unit, separated the sections, and built two shelves across the top. Very easy, not very expensive, and "custom." The wall unit is about 6 inches away from the wall so the TV is flush.

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/7127/hitachi.jpg

I just took my existing wall unit, separated the sections, and built two shelves across the top. Very easy, not very expensive, and "custom." The wall unit is about 6 inches away from the wall so the TV is flush.

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/7127/hitachi.jpg

I think this pretty funny ... My son is playing fight night, so he comes where I'm at to tell me "watch this ..." he looks at what I am reading and says " oh my gosh look at all those figurines, that is so cool"

So you have a fan of your figurine collection Michael!

Nice set up ... but you need some cable management, then will be really cool, and I'll bet your wife will like it better too.

I think this pretty funny ... My son is playing fight night, so he comes where I'm at to tell me "watch this ..." he looks at what I am reading and says " oh my gosh look at all those figurines, that is so cool"

So you have a fan of your figurine collection Michael!

Nice set up ... but you need some cable management, then will be really cool, and I'll bet your wife will like it better too.

Thanks. The figurines are the wife's contribution. She was glad to have the extra shelf space.
The photo is an old one. The cable clutter was eliminated by stacking a cable box, a blu-ray player and an hd player in that space. The remotes were replaced with a Harmony, so they're gone, too.
The black backdrop doesn't show as much without a flash; that's a tablecloth from a party store. So I really DO care about some of the aesthetics.
Actually, from the back, the cables are a DISASTER! :eek:
(but they are labeled)

Here is what I use to make it neater...

Use cable ties to keep cables together and then a plastic spiral to make it look as one cable.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/cablemangnt003.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/cablemangnt004.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/cablemangnt002.jpg

I have a question about the 65 inch TV

I recently went into the service menu and updated my convergence settings.
There was a tutorial to save my settings to the ROM. I did that I i think something happened

Now when I go into Magic focus it doesn't work and automatically goes into a 9 point adjustment as well as a few other abnormalities

I was wondering if there was a way to recover a factory setting from what I did or is there a way to upload the software again via MMC or something like that

Thanks for any responses

Magic Focus only gets you close. True videophiles disconnect it.

If you want to "push the reset button", unplug your set for a whole minute before plugging it back in. That should make it go back the way it was.


b

Do any of you guys use a universal remote with your set? If so, which? I need one that will work in the service mode, too.

My remote has been clunky from almost the start. Only use it to switch input (which universal cable remote doesn't control) and for servicing the set. The last two years it's only worked with an elaborate black magic 5-step process. And it's rejecting even those methods lately. Don't feel like spending 50 dollars on a replacement remote (when it's so basic), so I'm hoping there's a universal remote that fits the bill.

No suggestions on fixing the remote. I've had this thing taken apart 100 times. It's just a poor manufacturing job. The rubber mat doesn't align where it should with the contact board and the battery compartment is way too loose. Both are major flaws and together I'm surprised I've squeezed this much life out of it.

Do any of you guys use a universal remote with your set? If so, which? I need one that will work in the service mode, too.

My remote has been clunky from almost the start. Only use it to switch input (which universal cable remote doesn't control) and for servicing the set. The last two years it's only worked with an elaborate black magic 5-step process. And it's rejecting even those methods lately. Don't feel like spending 50 dollars on a replacement remote (when it's so basic), so I'm hoping there's a universal remote that fits the bill.

No suggestions on fixing the remote. I've had this thing taken apart 100 times. It's just a poor manufacturing job. The rubber mat doesn't align where it should with the contact board and the battery compartment is way too loose. Both are major flaws and together I'm surprised I've squeezed this much life out of it.

I have a Logitech Harmony 670 - one of their more "budget" uni remotes. You use your PC to program the Harmony remotes (they come w/ a CD-ROM for installing the Harmony software & a USB cable).

It features EVERY button function found on the F59 remotes. However, if any service menu level stuff needs doing, I would still bust out the Hitachi one - only due to all buttons being physically laid out. Same button functionss are available on the Harmony, but many of them will require scrolling thru the menu on the remote's display screen to find 'em all.

Do any of you guys use a universal remote with your set? If so, which? I need one that will work in the service mode, too.

My remote has been clunky from almost the start. Only use it to switch input (which universal cable remote doesn't control) and for servicing the set. The last two years it's only worked with an elaborate black magic 5-step process. And it's rejecting even those methods lately. Don't feel like spending 50 dollars on a replacement remote (when it's so basic), so I'm hoping there's a universal remote that fits the bill.

No suggestions on fixing the remote. I've had this thing taken apart 100 times. It's just a poor manufacturing job. The rubber mat doesn't align where it should with the contact board and the battery compartment is way too loose. Both are major flaws and together I'm surprised I've squeezed this much life out of it.

I also have a Harmony for everyday use... but I use the hithachi's remote exclusively when doing any SM changes.

If I was in that predicament, I would look for a remote that each individual key could be programmed and prob labeled the keys as programmed to mimic the stock hitachi remote.

I have a few questions for the more technically gifted on this thread. Can a Hitachi 65f59 be modified so that its native display is 1080p instead of 1080i? And if possible, is the difference and cost worth the effort in your opinion? Separately, can the HDMI input on the same set be modified from HDMI 1.0-1.1 to 1.3A or B. And again, will this make any difference whatsoever?

I have a few questions for the more technically gifted on this thread. Can a Hitachi 65f59 be modified so that its native display is 1080p instead of 1080i? And if possible, is the difference and cost worth the effort in your opinion?

Probably not and if it could it wouldn't be worth it since I bet 99.9% of the population can't tell the difference between the same source in 1080p and 1080i. Worth noting is broadcast TV is between 20-30 frames per second and film is 24. 1080p is 60p fps and 1080i is 60i fps (roughly half it to 30 fps). There are a few cases when 1080i looks bad but that's mostly do to bad encoding, from what I understand that's in the past.

The only thing that would benefit technically from 1080p over 1080i is video games. Of the HD consoles PS3 & Xbox 360 has very few true 1080p games. The 360 scales, the PS3 stretches (very few games will actually output at 1080p/i) 720p and other odd resolutions to 1080i/p. So that leaves PC games that should only benefit from 1080p and that's only if your video card can handle 1920 x 1080 at 60 fps.

So basically in a nut shell, anyone who tells you 1080p > 1080i is just being a snob. :D

Ryan

Probably not and if it could it wouldn't be worth it since I bet 99.9% of the population can't tell the difference between the same source in 1080p and 1080i. Worth noting is broadcast TV is between 20-30 frames per second and film is 24. 1080p is 60p fps and 1080i is 60i fps (roughly half it to 30 fps). There are a few cases when 1080i looks bad but that's mostly do to bad encoding, from what I understand that's in the past.

The only thing that would benefit technically from 1080p over 1080i is video games. Of the HD consoles PS3 & Xbox 360 has very few true 1080p games. The 360 scales, the PS3 stretches (very few games will actually output at 1080p/i) 720p and other odd resolutions to 1080i/p. So that leaves PC games that should only benefit from 1080p and that's only if your video card can handle 1920 x 1080 at 60 fps.

So basically in a nut shell, anyone who tells you 1080p > 1080i is just being a snob. :D

Ryan

I must concur with the learned gentelman.

I have a Logitech Harmony 670 - one of their more "budget" uni remotes. You use your PC to program the Harmony remotes (they come w/ a CD-ROM for installing the Harmony software & a USB cable).

It features EVERY button function found on the F59 remotes. However, if any service menu level stuff needs doing, I would still bust out the Hitachi one - only due to all buttons being physically laid out. Same button functionss are available on the Harmony, but many of them will require scrolling thru the menu on the remote's display screen to find 'em all.

The order is alphabetical by default but, like most things Harmony, is customizable on the website. On my 880, I get 8 at a time.
I got a refurb as a backup since life as I know it would end without one.
Good luck.

I have a question about the 65 inch TV

I recently went into the service menu and updated my convergence settings.
There was a tutorial to save my settings to the ROM. I did that I i think something happened

Now when I go into Magic focus it doesn't work and automatically goes into a 9 point adjustment as well as a few other abnormalities

I was wondering if there was a way to recover a factory setting from what I did or is there a way to upload the software again via MMC or something like that

Thanks for any responses

You may have gone in or out of DCAM wrong. Or you adjusted something too far and now it won't register (as Mr. Bob says, no great loss; you don't want to use MF after you've spent the time converging it yourself).
Personally, on my set, the MF mirrors and wires have been removed. But I'm nuts (just ask anyone).
The document below (hopefully attached as a pdf) should help with this and other issues.
Good luck.

Probably not and if it could it wouldn't be worth it since I bet 99.9% of the population can't tell the difference between the same source in 1080p and 1080i. Worth noting is broadcast TV is between 20-30 frames per second and film is 24. 1080p is 60p fps and 1080i is 60i fps (roughly half it to 30 fps). There are a few cases when 1080i looks bad but that's mostly do to bad encoding, from what I understand that's in the past.

The only thing that would benefit technically from 1080p over 1080i is video games. Of the HD consoles PS3 & Xbox 360 has very few true 1080p games. The 360 scales, the PS3 stretches (very few games will actually output at 1080p/i) 720p and other odd resolutions to 1080i/p. So that leaves PC games that should only benefit from 1080p and that's only if your video card can handle 1920 x 1080 at 60 fps.

So basically in a nut shell, anyone who tells you 1080p > 1080i is just being a snob. :D

Ryan

Thanks very much for the response. It was very helpful. I guess I need to pay less attention to the marketing hype. Because the picture quality on my 1080i Hitachi is quite breathtaking and really good enough. Again, thanks.

I agree. The only thing that makes 1080i stumble anymore is pyrotechnics at concerts and flashbulbs. These are so few and far between that I would not consider i vs. p to be a very potent reason at all, for buying new. Certainly doesn't ring my bell.

1080i is breathtaking on my setup, and I see absolutely no need for p. Not to mention that virtually all broadcast HD video is 1080i, not p. Dish has a limited amount of p material, but most of everything out there is i and will stay that way until the marketplace is ready to support another massive multi-billion dollar upgrade, like the one we have just experienced, going from SD to HD capability.

Not anytime soon, I would think. It's taken 10 years just to get this far...


b

UPDATE: Still going to buy a universal remote, but I've solved my remote problems. Did some "remodeling" of the plastic inside the battery housing and I tore off the little nubs on the rubber overlay (that go into the guidance holes on the PCB.) Snapped everything back together and it's working flawlessly. So in the closet it goes. Service mode/DCAM only from here on out.

I also have a Harmony for everyday use... but I use the hithachi's remote exclusively when doing any SM changes.

If I was in that predicament, I would look for a remote that each individual key could be programmed and prob labeled the keys as programmed to mimic the stock hitachi remote.

I don't know why I was doing what I was doing. I should have put the Hitachi remote in a closet and only pulled it out for service modes/DCAM.

http://www.amazon.com/One-All-8-Device-Universal-Control/dp/B00083J29O/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1247761653&sr=8-8

This remote here looks very intriguing. It's hard to see in the pictures if it's exactly what I need, but I think lots of stores carry it, so I can look in store.

It seems to have all the buttons and from what I can tell, can learn if need be. Right now my remote only works if I take the PCB board out of the casing, carefully align the rubber mat on top, and hold the batteries together with my bottom fingers. That solution is ok for programming a new remote, but nothing else. So that's really what I'm most looking for. Something that closely mimics the stock remote so I can use it for service modes. Have to check it out at the store.

I have a few questions for the more technically gifted on this thread. Can a Hitachi 65f59 be modified so that its native display is 1080p instead of 1080i? And if possible, is the difference and cost worth the effort in your opinion? Separately, can the HDMI input on the same set be modified from HDMI 1.0-1.1 to 1.3A or B. And again, will this make any difference whatsoever?

At the screen sizes of the sets we have, not really a reason to go to P. If you have calibrated your set then you won't feel the need to go to P at all except out of curiousity. I rarely see scan lines in normal material, and the smoothness and continuousness we are missing, we actually aren't missing becasue of the screen size. So no it can't be done, but don't worry about it. I'm more concerned with modding the hardware we have to perform the best it can, a la' Mike Parker mods. Pipedreams.

I have the biggest screen size made for our genre - CRT RPTV - and have NO issues with continuousness or smoothness in movement. On the contrary I have seen MANY fixed pixel 1080p sets with stilted, strobe-type motion, and you need to go higher in their refresh rates to get rid of it. Which has to be designed in, and each year they get faster, for more fluid movement. Currently 240Hz is the fastest I have seen yet, but I am sure faster is still being designed for as we speak.

In CRT none of that is a problem, never has been.

I agree, 1080i is all we need, and going to 1080p really doesn't solve any of the issues mentioned here.


b

The info is out there but the GP has no idea what is true and not. The Contrast Ratio lie is a big one. Each manufacturer makes up their own standard for that one. 20,000:1 means nothing compared to another set with 5000:1. You have no idea who is setting that standard. The new sets, like my FP in the bedroom have to have the Contrast jacked so high to get a decent pic. My Hit is burning it up if it hits a 35 setting. Its really all about the size and space our take up. If it wasn't for that there wouldn't be comparisons.

I just cleaned my lenses again. Its been over 6 months and they were not that bad. We had our ducts cleaned in the home and it has reduced the dust somewhat. I did find a small plastic shaving in the coolant cup on the blue lense. Cleaned that out. Cleaned the mirror again ( I hate cleaning the mirror) and presto....great pic.

Lets see a FP owner do any of that to improve their pic. Really looks good.

I notice you're in Austin, Sidney.

Bala is forming a cal tour for Dallas and surrounding areas, and is looking for fellow rabid CRT triple gun participants (to match their rabid CRT triple gun calibrator...:rolleyes:)

I would love to come to Austin and do some work for you while on that tour -

;)

More info on that tour can be found soon at my Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV! thread, stay tuned in -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=188


b

said it once and I'll say it again. The simple cleaning really brought out the color again. It didn't even have that much dust this time. Still even my wife noticed the difference. Crazy what a little dust will do.

;)

Hi everyone...

Long time ago I found on the net the article on how to focus an rptv via the cantilever technique from mr Bob, I think... but I did not understand it at all... would somebody be kind to explain it differenly again? I have done the mechanical focus on my panasonic pt 53wx53 and I would like to make sure I can focus it to the best that I can. I will be cleaning the lenses this weekend and painting the inside of it with flat black pain, because I noticed the particle board inside has not been painted black. and at this time I would like to try the cantilever effect, if possible...

thanks.

Cantilever effect. I like that...


b

Hi everyone...

Long time ago I found on the net the article on how to focus an rptv via the cantilever technique from mr Bob, I think... but I did not understand it at all... would somebody be kind to explain it differenly again? I have done the mechanical focus on my panasonic pt 53wx53 and I would like to make sure I can focus it to the best that I can. I will be cleaning the lenses this weekend and painting the inside of it with flat black pain, because I noticed the particle board inside has not been painted black. and at this time I would like to try the cantilever effect, if possible...

thanks.

Be careful with that paint as it likes to get all kinds of places you dont want it to. Most used a sharpies or black cloth of some kind.

As far as the Cantilever technique..there is a lot of things that have to go right before you do that. I'm sure you have covered most by now. I would get with Mr. Bob with a phone consult if you want to do it right. If not the procedure is on the web somewhere. I did it by getting the phone consult with Mr. Bob and then perfecting it over numerous attempts. It will get you very close. I still had problems with my red guns focus and had to shim it separately to fix that. I would explain it to you but each set is different and I dont want to mess you up. Anyway the red gun was something called schemp**&&^^&& something or the other. It had nothing to do with the Cantilever tech.

Hi everyone...

Long time ago I found on the net the article on how to focus an rptv via the cantilever technique from mr Bob, I think... but I did not understand it at all... would somebody be kind to explain it differenly again? I have done the mechanical focus on my panasonic pt 53wx53 and I would like to make sure I can focus it to the best that I can. I will be cleaning the lenses this weekend and painting the inside of it with flat black pain, because I noticed the particle board inside has not been painted black. and at this time I would like to try the cantilever effect, if possible...

thanks.

Go to Walmart, get some black cloth and use that instead. I sharpied my set at first, but the black cloth was faaaaaaar faster and easier.

I actually grabbed a black T shirt for my Panny. Has worked great. Some owners make the insides of the optical cavity look like a black jewel box. That is not necessary in this application - sloppiness in installing your fabric won't show in the image unless you are so sloppy that whatever material you use invades the light path.

If you do use felt pens, get the big half-inch wide kind for the big areas, and the 1/8" kind for the smaller areas. I use both. You don't need the fine point kind for this op, and it would take forever if you should do so.


b

Go to Walmart, get some black cloth and use that instead. I sharpied my set at first, but the black cloth was faaaaaaar faster and easier.

Should look something like this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=15962773&postcount=3272

Yes, but many brands have an IR sensor in the middle. This has to remain exposed too, tho blackening the bare metal parts of it with a black felt pen is good too.

If the felt had not been used, I woulda said to hit the wood parts with your Sharpie as well.


b

Agreed... I'll try black cloth instead of paint, it looks easier and faster than paint as shown on that link..... thanks for the tip..

Agreed... I'll try black cloth instead of paint, it looks easier and faster than paint as shown on that link..... thanks for the tip..

Here is paint vs. cloth.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/DSCF0038.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming072.jpg

Here is paint vs. cloth.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/DSCF0038.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming072.jpg

I see no Lense Hood in this set up. Which I'm sure is a preference thing to begin with but I like mine.

I see no Lense Hood in this set up. Which I'm sure is a preference thing to begin with but I like mine.

Let's see it!

Let's see it!

I'm to lazy to open it up again. I just did it a few days ago. Let me see if I can find the old pics I posted a few months ago.

what is the purpose of a Lense hood? does it improve the PQ dramatically?

Hello all.

I've convinced myself that I need to do a mecanical focus of my red and blue canons. Its been a year now that I have enjoyed this TV to a certain extent. The only modification I had the guts to do innitially was the hdmi fix because I was the laughing stock of the wife. I am now in a state of mind where I want to take risks to get it to the next level.

Basically, the only downfall of my particular set has always been a very defocused red and blue bar toward the bottom left corner. On the 117 graph, its very apparent. I'm talking more then 1cm tick on the red and blue. In real life, it made huds of games barelly readable !

Apart from the mecanical adjustment, I'd like to go throught the DIY guide. However, it seem to have been pulled from the megaupload page due to innactivity. I'm also trying to find the service manual. If one of you could point me to a place where I could download both of those documents, it'd be great.

Thanks.

Post #3611 in the prior page has the DIY document posted by LastButNotLeast.

what is the purpose of a Lense hood? does it improve the PQ dramatically?

To keep loose light from refracting around inside and flooding the image. I'm not good enough at explaining it better. Can someone else chime in?

To keep loose light from refracting around inside and flooding the image. I'm not good enough at explaining it better. Can someone else chime in?

Basically, you keep the light from the guns from hitting the screen. They should hit the glass and then that should be reflected onto the screen, but many times the light from the guns hits the glass as well as the screen. I have a lens hood and I tend to think it improves black level and cleanliness of picture, but it's been a while since I put mine in.

Apart from the mecanical adjustment, I'd like to go throught the DIY guide. However, it seem to have been pulled from the megaupload page due to innactivity. I'm also trying to find the service manual. If one of you could point me to a place where I could download both of those documents, it'd be great.

Thanks.

Too big to post here. I was able to break it into 8 e-mail-able segments.
PM me.

Basically, you keep the light from the guns from hitting the screen. They should hit the glass and then that should be reflected onto the screen, but many times the light from the guns hits the glass as well as the screen. I have a lens hood and I tend to think it improves black level and cleanliness of picture, but it's been a while since I put mine in.

Actually the light never hits glass in there, it's a front/first surface mirror, so what's trying to be said is that the word mirror should be sub'd for glass, in the above statement.

;)


b

I'm to lazy to open it up again. I just did it a few days ago. Let me see if I can find the old pics I posted a few months ago.

Found one from Owen:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14085492&postcount=24
Thanks, anyway.

Found one from Owen:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14085492&postcount=24
Thanks, anyway.

Every time I've seen someone mentioning a lens hood is usually just the front side of the lenses, if you see Owen's he has a hood/shade on both side of the set, front and back.

I wounder how effective this is, all professional cameras use this concept, so if logic is and indicator here, a lens hood/shade should have some benefit on our sets.

some shots of the final adjustment after shimming my 57F59 Hitachi.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming002.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming010.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming018.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming021.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming017.jpg

Leo -

Excellent!

What I would do is loosen up your height just a bit - you're down to a total of 2.25%, while your width is at about 4%, making your circle appear a bit squat. I know the BD DVE is slightly inaccurate on h vs. w, and I myself take the h in a bit more than the w, for just that reason.

But when the circle looks squat you know you've compensated just a bit too much.

The blue is off to the right on these pix too, primarily on the right side -

Otherwise, great job!

;)


b

Leo -

Excellent!

What I would do is loosen up your height just a bit - you're down to a total of 2.25%, while your width is at about 4%, making your circle appear a bit squat. I know the BD DVE is slightly inaccurate on h vs. w, and I myself take the h in a bit more than the w, for just that reason.

But when the circle looks squat you know you've compensated just a bit too much.

The blue is off to the right on these pix too, primarily on the right side -

Otherwise, great job!

;)


b

Thanks Bob, I'll wait for you to get to San Antonio in a couple of weeks ... then I'll learn it directly from the MASTER.

I'm up for any improvement.

Leo -

... But when the circle looks squat you know you've compensated just a bit too much.

;)


b

Here are two geometry patterns from different sources:

From AVIA HD. If I meassure the circle, the H portion is abit longer than the V.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming002.jpg

Now the HDAVS-709. The H side is a smudge longer, prob 3mm. Very, very close while not perfect.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming015.jpg

I don't have AVIA HD, only the SD version. Is it/the HD version worth buying? I use the HD DVE.

Are the circles the same between the HD versions of AVIA and DVE? I have been wondering if the circle in the DVE version is perfect but the linearities surrounding it might not be? My set had native geometry from the factory, which showed the v to be a bit longer than the h, so I took the v in about half a %.

On the sets I've been using it on, with fresh OOB geometry, the h and v of the measurements of the circle have not been ID to each other. If the DVE pattern is actually correct, that would mean the mistakes have been being made by the manufacturers.


b

Update as of 9/2/09: absolutely NO response from anyone at Hitachi (a version of the same letter was also sent to "customer service.").
I, for one, will never purchase another Hitachi product, much as I loved my RPCRT.

24 June 2009

Hank Bartoli, President
Hitachi Home Electronics (America), Inc.

900 Hitachi Way
Chula Vista, CA 91914-3556

Dear Mr. Bartoli:
I have an unfortunate problem.
I have a 57F59A, purchased 10/24/06 from Circuit City (now defunct). I bought an extended warranty at the same time from RepairTech (also defunct).
I recently had to replace the blue gun, which is when I found out my extended warranty was worthless. So I ordered the part (UX26746) from partstore.com on 2/10/09 and received it on 2/24. I installed it shortly after that.
I recently noticed a growing “blob” towards the lower left of the screen, especially when we started watching an old black and white TV series, during which that section of the screen was yellow. I took the set apart and noticed a black streak INSIDE the new blue gun (upper right corner in photo, below).
I called partstore.com, who referred me to Hitachi customer service. I have spoken to several people there, as recently as today (case number 576586), and have been advised that the warranty on parts is 30 days. I find that especially odd, since the warranty on the crt with the set is 2 years.
This is obviously a defect in manufacture. I am amazed that no one (besides me) seems to care that my once fabulous calibrated picture is now unwatchable.
I do not think I am being unreasonable in asking for a replacement for the defective blue gun.
I have been extremely happy with my set until now, and have been an active supporter of it in several online videophile forums, especially two of the Hitachi forums on AVS, and a third called “Don't dump your CRT RPTV!” I would really hate to have to end our relationship because of this issue.
Please authorize a replacement for the defective blue gun.
Thank you for your help in this matter.
Sincerely,

Michael

Update as of 9/2/09: absolutely NO response from anyone at Hitachi (a version of the same letter was also sent to "customer service.").
I, for one, will never purchase another Hitachi product, much as I loved my RPCRT.


This really sucks!

I've imagined that at least Hitachi would give you some type of explanation.

... Is it/the HD version worth buying? I use the HD DVE.

Are the circles the same between the HD versions of AVIA and DVE? I have been wondering if the circle in the DVE version is perfect but the linearities surrounding it might not be? My set had native geometry from the factory, which showed the v to be a bit longer than the h, so I took the v in about half a %.


b

I like DVE for its ease of menus and navegation, but to actual calibration using ColorHCFR I prefer HDAVS-709 since the patterns are in right order.

Its AVIA worth the 30-36 buck? Not really.

To answer your question about the circles... IDK, I've never measure the circles on each disk, but you just open the box, I'll take a look.

Yer right I have not made the comparison, when I did my set I simply used a DVR'd shot of the moon that filled the screen, which was ID to the ABC and CBS circles in their logos. That's what we're really trying to get right, bottom line, is real world video material.

Guess the real test would be comparing THOSE circles to the test pattern circles and seeing if there are any anomalies, but I have too much else to do right now, I'm happy with my picture...


b

I recently had to replace the blue gun, which is when I found out my extended warranty was worthless. So I ordered the part (UX26746) from partstore.com on 2/10/09 and received it on 2/24. I installed it shortly after that.
I recently noticed a growing “blob” towards the lower left of the screen, especially when we started watching an old black and white TV series, during which that section of the screen was yellow. I took the set apart and noticed a black streak INSIDE the new blue gun (upper right corner in photo, below).

Do you know if a blue gun from a 51F710A would work? I have a 51F710A sitting in my basement for donor parts.

Ryan

Do you know if a blue gun from a 51F710A would work? I have a 51F710A sitting in my basement for donor parts.

Ryan

I'd need to find the service manual for the F710 series to see if the part number is the same. Interestingly, the part for the 57F59 is DIFFERENT from that for the 59A/J series (cheaper, too, of course).
Though I doubt it would work, I really appreciate the offer. You realize that, in order to get the gun out, you need to COMPLETELY disassemble the inside - a huge undertaking. Keep the set for someone who throws his Wii through his screen. :)

To answer your question about the circles... IDK, I've never measure the circles on each disk, but you just open the box, I'll take a look.

Like I really NEEDED to know this?!
Here's what I have, horiz by vert:
DVE HD 19.375 x 19.25
DVE SD 19.25 X 19.5
AVSHD 17.75 x 17.875
AVIA SD 21.5 x 21.5
And anyone wonders why we're nuts?
Michael

You forgot the ABC, CBS and NBC logos! And a big shot of the full moon from your favorite space travelog!

:D

As I suspected, the HD version of DVE is a little long on the vertical, needing just a tad more underscanning than the horizontal, I run mine at about half a percent under at top and bottom, each...


b

Like I really NEEDED to know this?!
Here's what I have, horiz by vert:
DVE HD 19.375 x 19.25
DVE SD 19.25 X 19.5
AVSHD 17.75 x 17.875
AVIA SD 21.5 x 21.5
And anyone wonders why we're nuts?
Michael

What is this!!!! only data and no pictures? :p

Thanks Michael... as per AVIA SD ...PERFECT!!! :)

You forgot the ABC, CBS and NBC logos! And a big shot of the full moon from your favorite space travelog!

Don't usually watch TV, but got OTA something with the Universal globe that was 14 x 14. Also:
AVSHD ("Patched") [blu-ray] 17.875 x 17.875
Guess I'll leave it alone! :)

HELP. Please.

I've got a Hitachi 51 rear projection 51F710A and I've got no green. Football is played on pinkish-reddish fields. Same for base-ball and golf. I've jacked around with the tint slider and the color temperature and stuff. My tv signal is through Timewarner but it does the same thing on dvds played from a couple of different sources.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Thanks in advance.

Oh, I've had the tv since around January of 06.

Make sure all 3 of your component conns are in tightly. One missing could do this. If the patchcord going from your AVR to the set is the one in question, it would apply to all going thru it, both cable and DVD.


b

Thanks Bob, I'll check this out as soon as I get home.

ok, checked the cable connections and they were fine. Even tried connecting to a different set of inputs on the back of the tv.

Next?

If your S and composite inputs are also doing this, then you'll need a tech on it. It is usually not the CRT, but could be.


b

crauen just wrote a great review on my work on his Hitachi CRT in Chico. It's post #5889 at

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17160958#post17160958

Mr Bob

I've got a Windows Vista Media Center outputting VGA @ 1280x720 to an Audio Authority VGA-to-Component Transcoder (AA-9A60) into a Hitachi 51F510 HDTV (via Component @ 720p).

Problem:

Every so often, the tv will flip out and go on the fritz very similar to how a computer trying to display a resolution on a CRT monitor in a resolution that it can't handle. The picture will go all red & start drawing horizontal lines, and after a short while, the tv will go black and basically say nothing is connected.

It will continue this way until one of two things happen... either a.) I turn off the tv, and turn it back on; or b.) you literally/physically shake the television... and the picture will come back just as if nothing happened. FYI: we prefer the shaking method :*(

I've tried switching the component input on the television from video-1 to video-2 (still component), and it occurs on both inputs. In contrast, my 5yo son has a Nintendo Gamecube on Video-3 (S-video/480) and it has never, ever exhibited the issue; not even in the slightest. I've also tried readjusting the scan on the computer itself with no difference.

I should mention the tv can go for very long stretches without the problem, or it can also do so repeatedly in short periods of time with no apparent rhyme or reason. Lastly, you can usually tell when it's about to happen as the picture will start to very subtly flicker or flash with touches of black.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooo......

I'm open to trying just about anything right now... any ideas?
Will the F59 HDMI Fix on Page 1, post 26 of this thread help or apply here?

I've got a Windows Vista Media Center outputting VGA @ 1280x720 to an Audio Authority VGA-to-Component Transcoder (AA-9A60) into a Hitachi 51F510 HDTV (via Component @ 720p).

Problem:

Every so often, the tv will flip out and go on the fritz very similar to how a computer trying to display a resolution on a CRT monitor in a resolution that it can't handle. The picture will go all red & start drawing horizontal lines, and after a short while, the tv will go black and basically say nothing is connected.

It will continue this way until one of two things happen... either a.) I turn off the tv, and turn it back on; or b.) you literally/physically shake the television... and the picture will come back just as if nothing happened. FYI: we prefer the shaking method :*(

I've tried switching the component input on the television from video-1 to video-2 (still component), and it occurs on both inputs. In contrast, my 5yo son has a Nintendo Gamecube on Video-3 (S-video/480) and it has never, ever exhibited the issue; not even in the slightest. I've also tried readjusting the scan on the computer itself with no difference.

I should mention the tv can go for very long stretches without the problem, or it can also do so repeatedly in short periods of time with no apparent rhyme or reason. Lastly, you can usually tell when it's about to happen as the picture will start to very subtly flicker or flash with touches of black.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooo......

I'm open to trying just about anything right now... any ideas?
Will the F59 HDMI Fix on Page 1, post 26 of this thread help or apply here?
Greetings,

The HDMI fix is just that...For HDMI only, so no joy there. Usually component video works perfectly for those Hitachi sets without the HDMI fix. Our component video worked fine when HDMI was a mess. Replacing the signal board fixed our HDMI connection and eliminated the HDMI "Freakout".

You might want to try more troubleshooting techniques to isolate and identify the source of the problem. You've already tried the second component video input and the problem still exists.
Suggestions (not in order) are:

Is there any correlation to ambient or operating temperature?
Is this a new problem? If so, was there any equipment or settings change recently?
Can you switch to 1080i instead of 720p? Your Hitachi prefers 1080i, though it has a decent enough upconverter if inputting 480i video.
Use a different source for a while, like a DVD player. Connect the new source component output using 720p if supported and observe. Does the problem go away?
Try different component video cables.


Good luck with the detective work!

Regards

If you can pound on it and make the problem go away, there is definitely a cold solder joint somewhere, giving way.

Finding it is the issue...


b

1.) Was wishful thinking on the HDMI fix, I know.

2.) While I do live in Sunny, South FL... there is no apparent correlation to ambient or operating temperatures. In fact, I keep my home @ a fairly constant 73'.

3.) This problem has been going on for a long while now, but was quite the rare occurrence at first... it appears to happen now with greater frequency (more often) as time progresses (appears to be getting worse).

4.) No new equipment or changes whatsoever. In fact, I've been using the same receiver and speakers now for about ~8x years (which are not going through the tv). I buy once and use forever.

5.) Well... while I have absolutely no problem soldering anything, but I'm not quite so sure how productive I'd be rummaging inside trying to trace such a problem. It'd have to be pretty obvious with burn marks or something before I'd recognize something has been fried or snapped off.

6.) No, unfortunately I cannot change the resolution to 1080i as the transcoder demands 720p.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

These last two points brings me to a very interesting question however...
(although I'm a bit scared at the response/cost)

My HTPC is built around the venerable AMD 780G chipset, which DOES support HDMI. The only reason why I'm using the AA Transcoder is because the #&*@#&^ HDMI connector on the TV broke off!!! (a pretty bonehead specification if you ask me).

Any way for me to replace the connector/board for the HDMI and use that?
Do you feel this would be a solution to the problem?

As I see it, using HDMI would provide a new digital cable, and would remove the transcoder completely from the configuration. Further, it would remove the component inputs as an possible issue as well. My concern would be that the ultimate problem is not with the component inputs themselves, but the HD decoder/board/etc in the tv (not to mention the cost).

Thermally related applies more to the warmup and cooldown of the circuitry than to your climate's ambient temp.

Techs trace down such intermittents by tapping on live circuitry with insulated tapping instruments, pushing on live boards, and using highly directional superfreeze spray and heat guns.

I would NOT recommend that anyone who's not a practicing service repair tech do any of these things on their own set, tho. There are lethal voltages in there, and it can be very dangerous. If you do it on your own you're taking your life in your hands.


If you're handy at all, you should be able to replace your broken off HDMI conn fairly straightforwardly, with your set completely unplugged from the wall. In which case only trickles of dormant voltages are still around, not being constantly fed by live cirucuitry. Still capable of jolting you of course, but in this case you should not be anywhere near that kind of still alive circuitry. Stay away from the undersides of the CRT socket boards in particular, the CRT is where most dormant voltage stays, as it is in essence a huge capacitor, in this application.

The HDMI socket can be ordered from your set's manufacturer. Hopefully they will sell to you as a consumer...


b

These last two points brings me to a very interesting question however...
(although I'm a bit scared at the response/cost)

My HTPC is built around the venerable AMD 780G chipset, which DOES support HDMI. The only reason why I'm using the AA Transcoder is because the #&*@#&^ HDMI connector on the TV broke off!!! (a pretty bonehead specification if you ask me).

Any way for me to replace the connector/board for the HDMI and use that?
Do you feel this would be a solution to the problem?

As I see it, using HDMI would provide a new digital cable, and would remove the transcoder completely from the configuration. Further, it would remove the component inputs as an possible issue as well. My concern would be that the ultimate problem is not with the component inputs themselves, but the HD decoder/board/etc in the tv (not to mention the cost).

Greetings,

I really don't like the HDMI connector on our Hitachi 51F59A. It is the most delicate feeling/looking connector I've seen in a consumer electronics device. I'm not surprised you're having issues with it. I wouldn't fault the specification necessarily, just Hitachi's implementation of it. I think you will find replacing the connector difficult, but feel free to inspect the assembly (with caution and the set unplugged).

Regards

If your S and composite inputs are also doing this, then you'll need a tech on it. It is usually not the CRT, but could be.
Just for giggles I bought an hdmi cable and connected the cable box that way. No difference.



bI guess I'll have to have a tech take a look at it. I know you are in California, but can you make any recommendations for selecting a technician? I'm guessing there are professional associations and such?

Thanks much.

Well there is the CEA - the Consumer Electronics Association. It puts on the CES each year in Vegas, the Consumer Electronics Show, a very international experience.

I am not personally a member, nor are any repair techs I know, and I don't know of any associations strictly for repair people or calibrators. You'll prolly have to quiz a few on the phone and get a feel for them.

Good luck -


b

Haven't had to do anything with my set since I cleaned it about 1 month ago. Still looks great. I'm going to have to break down and buy a Blu Ray though as the HD DVD supply and variety is getting low. I'm waiting on a buddy to sell me his HD/Blu combo player. I'm a little hesitant because I heard Sony withholds some of the good technology in Blu to keep their versions better. Anybody know if this is true?

Haven't had to do anything with my set since I cleaned it about 1 month ago. Still looks great. I'm going to have to break down and buy a Blu Ray though as the HD DVD supply and variety is getting low. I'm waiting on a buddy to sell me his HD/Blu combo player. I'm a little hesitant because I heard Sony withholds some of the good technology in Blu to keep their versions better. Anybody know if this is true?


Only concern I could see is that the older combo players may not get continued support via updates & whatnot. BUt 2.0 Players are getting cheaper - see a few these days in the $200 & slightly less ballpark. Will get cheaper as XMAS approaches.

I'm happy as can be w/ a Panny BD35. Does every 2.0 goodie it's supposed to. Don't think it lacks anything a Sony player has in terms of basic features. And still gets updates even after being discontinued. It's current successor goes for $200-$250. And it sits just above the old HDA2 in the rack.

Remember that if you're using component, Sony does not deliver blacker than black via component, only via HDMI.

Panny and Samsung both deliver btb via both. My btb on my Panny BD30 via component is just delicious. If I had a PS3 or an outboard Sony BDP, I would be hurtin' unless I had my HD Fury II kicked in for it, allowing it to OP HDMI and receive it at my display as component. My component, which is what I use 99% of the time, would be lacking a lot of shadow detail with Sony on component.

But with Panny and Sammy, that's not a worry.

Guys, let us know your findings on other brands. You find out using the BD or HD DVE, pluge pattern. The one with 4 boxes in the middle in varying intensities of gray, and stripes at the sides.

3 stripes per side, with the outermost one blacker than the background gray, means you get blacker than black. Only 2 stripes per side means you don't.


b

Doing my color decoding, it seems as though green is oversaturated. I wonder if any of the typical CRT remedies for this can be done.

Doing my color decoding, it seems as though green is oversaturated. I wonder if any of the typical CRT remedies for this can be done.

I imagine you are first setting user at mid point and doing it through SM right?

I imagine you are first setting user at mid point and doing it through SM right?

C'mon now.......of course I am.

Green is oversaturated itself, not turned up too high in the SM. The tube.

C'mon now.......of course I am.

Green is oversaturated itself, not turned up too high in the SM. The tube.

Just making sure you're paying attention :rolleyes:

Well... if you want to start all over...

Do blue first, red second ... go back and forth a couple of times then go to green. Once you're as close as you can visually use your instrument and do grayscale and then primaries, we can't adjust secondaries on our sets but can do minor adjustments through the primaries. After these can go back to color decoding and touch up... and that is as much as we can do with our sets. :)

Just making sure you're paying attention :rolleyes:

Well... if you want to start all over...

Do blue first, red second ... go back and forth a couple of times then go to green. Once you're as close as you can visually use your instrument and do grayscale and then primaries, we can't adjust secondaries on our sets but can do minor adjustments through the primaries. After these can go back to color decoding and touch up... and that is as much as we can do with our sets. :)

I've got everything all done, my thing is with the green tube. It's not capable of being accurate out the box. It happens with the front projection CRTs. Sometimes green and red are just over saturated and capable of being corrected eectronically, and what you can do in those instances is filter the lenses to bring the color back to standard. I'm wondering if this can be done in some way on our set. Otherwise, I'd have to get something like a Lumagen Radiance to bring it in line...which I'd love to do if I could afford one right now.

Who says? This is news to me. I have been doing CRT tech for over 20 years and have never heard that the green gun is always inaccurate OOB in any way, oversaturating or otherwise.

When I do a color decoding realignment on a suitably equipped Hitachi, ALL colors fall in line like dominos. There is no exception for green, it co-operates just like red and blue, as long as you're using the set's built-in color isolation. Filters only get you close, and are most inaccurate on the green.

On a Hitachi we don't need the secondaries. IMHO, the secondaries only get in the way and are a needless increase in the attention needed to fully grayscale and correctly color decode our video. The user PerfectColor on my Mit has the secondaries - along with the primaries, all 6 - and is a royal pain to realign. I would much prefer to do a Hitachi! In which case you only have to do the color and tint on each of the 3 colors in sm, with blue being the master - which moves the others along with it when you realign it. You start with getting the blue right and the others line up just right afterwards.

I never have any problem realigning the green when I can use color iso to do so. Once the complete realignment has been performed and we're kicking back and watching some video finally, the colorations are always silky smooth and totally lifelike. Every time.

And I have never needed a Lumagen to do so.


b

Some questions, re: 57F59 Service Manual, TA1360 tables (pp. 77-79)

1> Some factory settings are highlighted in red or bold. What does this signify?

2> Has anyone prepared an explanation for the calibration abbreviations? Or at least a translation? (DRV = Drive... Ok, that one was easy)

3> Several items listed in the TA1360 menu on my TV that are not in the service manual (HSYNC, VSYNC and CSYNC). Does this mean I don't have the latest version of the SM or is this just an error in the manual?

(My SM is dated March 2006, but includes CH-3 revision dated 08/09/06, and the chassis number on the cover page matches what's on the OSD)

Some questions, re: 57F59 Service Manual, TA1360 tables (pp. 77-79)

1> Some factory settings are highlighted in red or bold. What does this signify?

2> Has anyone prepared an explanation for the calibration abbreviations? Or at least a translation? (DRV = Drive... Ok, that one was easy)

3> Several items listed in the TA1360 menu on my TV that are not in the service manual (HSYNC, VSYNC and CSYNC). Does this mean I don't have the latest version of the SM or is this just an error in the manual?

(My SM is dated March 2006, but includes CH-3 revision dated 08/09/06, and the chassis number on the cover page matches what's on the OSD)

1> Those are changes/corrections from previous editions of the SM.

2> No. And without a meter, you don't really know what you're changing, anyway (my graphs from changing STATG1 are around somewhere). Just working with the cuts and drives for a good grayscale will make a dramatic difference, but feel free to play with other settings [WRITING DOWN THE DEFAULTS FIRST - NOTE THAT YOUR SET MAY NOT MATCH THE "DEFAULTS" IN THE MANUAL]; some things, like YOUTG, have a dramatic effect on the gamma curve.

3> Most of those are read-only, so don't worry about them.

Have fun!

2> No. And without a meter, you don't really know what you're changing, anyway (my graphs from changing STATG1 are around somewhere). Just working with the cuts and drives for a good grayscale will make a dramatic difference, but feel free to play with other settings [WRITING DOWN THE DEFAULTS FIRST - NOTE THAT YOUR SET MAY NOT MATCH THE "DEFAULTS" IN THE MANUAL]; some things, like YOUTG, have a dramatic effect on the gamma curve.
Thanks for the advice. I just bought the AVIA DVD. I haven't opened it yet, but was concerned I might have trouble figuring out the nomenclature. If I run into anything in particular, I'll ask here.

I should clarify that I'm not into tweaking (at least not yet). Rather, I'm trying to resolve a major problem with color balance. My TV has a greenish tint and it's gotten progressively worse over the past year. Originally it only affected composite and component inputs (re: legacy satellite receiver). My DVD player looked great via HDMI. But now, even the DVD is looking greenish (for example, the big DVD logo on the startup screen once was pure blue but now is green). Both video components are SD.

Could someone explain the abbreviations CBCR & PBPR used thoughout the TA1360 menu? I always thought CbCr was digital while PbPr was analog, but in reviewing the SM tables, I see examples where CBCR settings refer to YPBPR and PBPR settings refer to HDMI, as shown in the middle column.

Could someone explain the abbreviations CBCR & PBPR used thoughout the TA1360 menu? I always thought CbCr was digital while PbPr was analog, but in reviewing the SM tables, I see examples where CBCR settings refer to YPBPR and PBPR settings refer to HDMI, as shown in the middle column.

I have an HD player hooked up via HDMI and a BD player hooked up via component. The CBCR color/tint settings control the HDMI input, the PBPR color/tint settings control the component.
If you're only using AVIA, you should probably just stick with the user menu. Though, if I were you, I'd play around with the GRN drive and cuts (std, if that's the color temp you're using). Just make sure you jot down the original settings. If I were me, I'd mess with the trimpots, but that's gotten me into a two year learning curve. Fun, but only if you're really interested in such things.
Good luck.

Well as far as Green goes I tend to agree with Lordcloud. I have been able to get blue and red perfect numerous times but not green. Now I have gotten green almost there but that was with some registries jacked way out and it did not give me good PQ. Right now my Pic is great. I bought that new LCD FP for the bedroom and you can see both TV's from one spot in the BR. The Hit's PQ is much better but the colors on both are right on without adjustments on the FP OOB.
I have spent hours on the Decoding and have never gotten green perfect. Again comparing my pic to the FP the grayscale is pretty darn good. So I have always been left with that green gun a little off. Doesn't effect the PQ but its there. IMHO anyway.

Who says? This is news to me. I have been doing CRT tech for over 20 years and have never heard that the green gun is always inaccurate OOB in any way, oversaturating or otherwise.

When I do a color decoding realignment on a suitably equipped Hitachi, ALL colors fall in line like dominos. There is no exception for green, it co-operates just like red and blue, as long as you're using the set's built-in color isolation. Filters only get you close, and are most inaccurate on the green.

On a Hitachi we don't need the secondaries. IMHO, the secondaries only get in the way and are a needless increase in the attention needed to fully grayscale and correctly color decode our video. The user PerfectColor on my Mit has the secondaries - along with the primaries, all 6 - and is a royal pain to realign. I would much prefer to do a Hitachi! In which case you only have to do the color and tint on each of the 3 colors in sm, with blue being the master - which moves the others along with it when you realign it. You start with getting the blue right and the others line up just right afterwards.

I never have any problem realigning the green when I can use color iso to do so. Once the complete realignment has been performed and we're kicking back and watching some video finally, the colorations are always silky smooth and totally lifelike. Every time.

And I have never needed a Lumagen to do so.


b

My green is as low as it can go, and it's still not perfect. The picture looks good, but green must be over saturated. I know it can be fixed using a VP, ut I don't have one right now.

Color decoding realignment can be a nightmare, sometimes - like with my PerfectColor - it takes gallons of intuition to finally get it acceptable. The labelling on the User regs in Mit's PC are not accurate in terms of what they are supposed to be doing. I had to play with it and make charts to myself as to what each one actually DID, in order to get finally it right.

The classic color decoding regs of R-YR, R-YB, G-YR and G-YB allow Saturation and Tint/Hue to be set independently for red and green separately, with blue being the master and affecting all 3 colors simultaneously. Red and green are thus able to be realigned independently.


But sometimes they are inversely set up in terms of their values of increase vs. decrease.

In the older Mits's where we had those same classic regs, in order to defeat the dread red push the red R-YR, R-YB values had to be set way UP in order to have the red levels come DOWN in the actual images. In later year Mit units I have found the opposite!

Sometimes that was not enough and the master Color and Tint registers - alias Blue in the Mit's, where the only way to alter the master color and tint was via the blue, there were no independent color and tint regs for blue like there were for red and green - had to be played with, to re-range the limited amounts of play the red and green color decoding registers had. Sometimes I could get it almost but not quite right via the patterns, but well within tolerances that rendered the actual offnesses totally undetectable to the human eye. But in either case it sometimes required re-ranging the master color and tint regs to do so.

My 65" Panny had color decoding regs that were way off the beaten path in their labelling - were not easily decipherable in what they did - but were capable of realigning the color decoding successfully anyway. This included having special regs for the blue, rather than keeping blue the master, like most other brands did. They remained a bit off to the test patterns, but not decipherably off to the eye, in actual video.

Again, filters are totally unnacceptable in this arena, esp for green. Only color iso will do it, which makes Hitachis excellent as long as you have the newer models to work with and not the older ones, which were not so suitably equipped.

DK about this particular model of Hit. I do know that on Hits that ARE suitably equipped for realignment of the color decoding, you have to be very careful about which regs you play with, because each decoding section has several versions of each of these classic regs, and you have to match them up by trial and error before you know you're on the right reg for the input/scanrate/format you are actually trying to realign.

You might also want to try re-ranging your master color and tint to allow more range in your G-YR, G-YB regs and see if that helps.


b

Color decoding realignment can be a nightmare, sometimes - like with my PerfectColor - it takes gallons of intuition to finally get it acceptable. The labelling on the User regs in Mit's PC are not accurate in terms of what they are supposed to be doing. I had to play with it and make charts to myself as to what each one actually DID, in order to get finally it right.

The classic color decoding regs of R-YR, R-YB, G-YR and G-YB allow Saturation and Tint/Hue to be set independently for red and green separately, with blue being the master and affecting all 3 colors simultaneously. Red and green are thus able to be realigned independently.


But sometimes they are inversely set up in terms of their values of increase vs. decrease.

In the older Mits's where we had those same classic regs, in order to defeat the dread red push the red R-YR, R-YB values had to be set way UP in order to have the red levels come DOWN in the actual images. In later year Mit units I have found the opposite!

Sometimes that was not enough and the master Color and Tint registers - alias Blue in the Mit's, where the only way to alter the master color and tint was via the blue, there were no independent color and tint regs for blue like there were for red and green - had to be played with, to re-range the limited amounts of play the red and green color decoding registers had. Sometimes I could get it almost but not quite right via the patterns, but well within tolerances that rendered the actual offnesses totally undetectable to the human eye. But in either case it sometimes required re-ranging the master color and tint regs to do so.

My 65" Panny had color decoding regs that were way off the beaten path in their labelling - were not easily decipherable in what they did - but were capable of realigning the color decoding successfully anyway. This included having special regs for the blue, rather than keeping blue the master, like most other brands did. They remained a bit off to the test patterns, but not decipherably off to the eye, in actual video.

Again, filters are totally unnacceptable in this arena, esp for green. Only color iso will do it, which makes Hitachis excellent as long as you have the newer models to work with and not the older ones, which were not so suitably equipped.

DK about this particular model of Hit. I do know that on Hits that ARE suitably equipped for realignment of the color decoding, you have to be very careful about which regs you play with, because each decoding section has several versions of each of these classic regs, and you have to match them up by trial and error before you know you're on the right reg for the input/scanrate/format you are actually trying to realign.

You might also want to try re-ranging your master color and tint to allow more range in your G-YR, G-YB regs and see if that helps.


b

Thanks Bob and your right. The Hit is great with the Color Iso it has. The three temp settings have caused me issue sin the past which I still dont understand. On Stnd I adjust the tint and color values in blue first and get it perfect. Red is already close using ColorG at 0. Then Grn which wont adjust to perfect. Either the two color boxes are out or the one tint is. Never can align all three with the background at the same time. (Using DVE HD)

What drives me nuts is Med setting has no effect but High will effect the standard settings. So not only do you have to mess with the Stnd settings you have to tweak the High also. I dont understand this since I'm adjusting in Stnd only.

Set STD and High to the same settings and be done with it. Make them the settings that work best for the grayscale and go from there.

Can you see the difference in colorations with your eyes once you're close, even tho you can't nail the color bars? If so and you have it at least down to one click end results - one click up being too much that way, one click down being too much the other way - then you have it as good as it's going to get.

If you cannot see the coloration diffs then when you do it one way or the other, that's the best it's gonna get, and really doesn't matter, because your eyes can't see any further changes anyway.

You've hit your head on the limits of the technology. If you have it the best that can be done and you eyes can't see it any better anyway, you've got it nailed as much as humanly possible.

Enjoy it!


b

Set STD and High to the same settings and be done with it. Make them the settings that work best for the grayscale and go from there.

Can you see the difference in colorations with your eyes once you're close, even tho you can't nail the color bars? If so and you have it at least down to one click end results - one click up being too much that way, one click down being too much the other way - then you have it as good as it's going to get.

If you cannot see the coloration diffs then when you do it one way or the other, that's the best it's gonna get, and really doesn't matter, because your eyes can't see any further changes anyway.

You've hit your head on the limits of the technology. If you have it the best that can be done and you eyes can't see it any better anyway, you've got it nailed as much as humanly possible.

Enjoy it!


b

I use AVIA II to do my color calibration, and it's obvious that the green needs to be brought down a few clicks to make it accurate. That's what leads me to conclude that it's over saturated. It's frustrating to know I can't get it as close as red and blue, but I know a VP can get it where it needs to be, which may be my next video purchase. Although the VP I want, costs a few times more than the TV itself, but I can use it for the Marquee I plan on getting one day as well.

Hey all, does anyone have an electronic copy of the SM that they could send me a few pages of? I'm specifically interested in the pages associated with the TA1360 menus.

Here's my situation...I have a 53UWX10b that is still serving me well. I haven't even had to replace the convergence IC's. A long time ago I had reduced the oscan a bit using the pots but couldn't get the convergence very tight at the edges and the geometry was a bit off, but out of fear of screwing something up I didn't mess with it much. Jump forward 8 years to the present, and I'm really going to finally get it perfect. The problem with this old of a set is that I can only use the internally generated grid which as has been noted is way too bright for really tight convergence.

Back on page 35 jwebb1970 mentioned DCUBRT (brightness) and DCUCNT(contrast) for taming the DCAM grid. My service manual doesn't have those options (by those names) but I have the data sheets for the TA1316AN which my TV has and the TA1360 that's in your TVs. The address map for the 2 parts is identical which suggests to me that the functionality is possibly there, but Hit called it something else. I do have OSD ACL, BRT, and CNT like you guys, and just before them is RGB ACL, BRT, and CNT. Do you guys have those as well, or is that what is labeled DCUBRT and DCUCNT?

I suppose I can just experiment, but it would be nice to be able to compare the documentation.

Hey all, does anyone have an electronic copy of the SM that they could send me a few pages of? I'm specifically interested in the pages associated with the TA1360 menus.

PM sent.

Hey all, does anyone have an electronic copy of the SM that they could send me a few pages of? I'm specifically interested in the pages associated with the TA1360 menus.

Here's my situation...I have a 53UWX10b that is still serving me well. I haven't even had to replace the convergence IC's. A long time ago I had reduced the oscan a bit using the pots but couldn't get the convergence very tight at the edges and the geometry was a bit off, but out of fear of screwing something up I didn't mess with it much. Jump forward 8 years to the present, and I'm really going to finally get it perfect. The problem with this old of a set is that I can only use the internally generated grid which as has been noted is way too bright for really tight convergence.

Back on page 35 jwebb1970 mentioned DCUBRT (brightness) and DCUCNT(contrast) for taming the DCAM grid. My service manual doesn't have those options (by those names) but I have the data sheets for the TA1316AN which my TV has and the TA1360 that's in your TVs. The address map for the 2 parts is identical which suggests to me that the functionality is possibly there, but Hit called it something else. I do have OSD ACL, BRT, and CNT like you guys, and just before them is RGB ACL, BRT, and CNT. Do you guys have those as well, or is that what is labeled DCUBRT and DCUCNT?

I suppose I can just experiment, but it would be nice to be able to compare the documentation.

Greetings,

See if you have DCUCNT0. That's the control for the DCU convergence grid contrast. Write down and save all SM values that you change.

Regards

Haven't had a change to play with the values yet, but based on the descriptions and menu placement it does look like my RGB CNT/BRT map to DCU CNT/BRT. In fact the descriptions are identical with the addition of DCU.


Regardless, I can say unequivocally that the Hit documentation improved dramatically over time. Even stuff like how to move through the menus improved substantially.

Following Michael's lead (LastButNotLeast) I used the standard template and reduced it by 1.8% vertically and horizontally; which probably needs to be 1.8% vertically and 1.5% horizontally to get a perfect circle.


I'm doing what I can to keep this thread alive :o

When you did that, did you measure out from the center? If so that means that the outermost rectangles will be slightly larger than the template, correct?

I'm doing what I can to keep this thread alive :o

When you did that, did you measure out from the center? If so that means that the outermost rectangles will be slightly larger than the template, correct?

Here is the standard pattern for the 57F59. By using this patter you would get a 5% overscan, by reducing the measurements by what ever percentage you choose the overscan used with the shimming op will reduce the overscan.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/GeoGrid.jpg

Here is my final overscan and geometry.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming017.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Shimming/shimming002.jpg

Yes you would start in the center and measure from there. If you see on the original pattern the outer squares are not equal to the other ones, so by reducing the measurements the outer boxes also remain constant, thus different than the other ones.

A note to the above; I started with a centered image, if you notice is a little off center towards the top, this is due to the blanking issue discussed. I'm sure that that can be centered by a re centering the array and he H-V menu entries. I'll wait for Bob to come to Texas to deal with this... if at all necessary.

The way it is now, you can perfectly see ALL tickers, scores and network bugs of any material displayed.

I guess the important part is measuring from the center.

In doing this, the outer boxes do not remain constant, they actually get significantly larger. Using your example, if you reduced the width by 1.8% than they would all be ~99.7mm. So then 6*99.7=598mm from the center to the outermost line, which means the outermost rectangle will increase from 22mm from the edge to 33mm, a 50% increase. Ultimately, I guess that doesn't matter, but I wanted to be sure.

I guess the important part is measuring from the center.

In doing this, the outer boxes do not remain constant, they actually get significantly larger. Using your example, if you reduced the width by 1.8% than they would all be ~99.7mm. So then 6*99.7=598mm from the center to the outermost line, which means the outermost rectangle will increase from 22mm from the edge to 33mm, a 50% increase. Ultimately, I guess that doesn't matter, but I wanted to be sure.

A note of CAUTION here.

The discussion on reducing the pattern by 1.8% is on a shimmed set, you can reduced the overscan by redoing the grid but I think you won't be able to do the edges with out major feathering and that is not to mention the over strain to the electronic circutry on the set.

The grid adjustment is done to a SHIMMED set. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1129800

I'm doing what I can to keep this thread alive :o

When you did that, did you measure out from the center? If so that means that the outermost rectangles will be slightly larger than the template, correct?

Here's my set using strings:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=15902513&postcount=3173

Michael's got his finger on the pulse. The geometry can be nailed properly, but the blanking at the top may require moving the image up to compensate.

ALL squares need to be the same size. This is best doublechecked by scrolling credits at the end of any movie, and watching for speedbumps. Circles can be doubledchecked using network logo circles, like the big circles of ABC, CBS and NBC.

And yes I'll be glad to take care of this when I come to Texas. Let's get that one rolling again! I know of at least one owner who wants me there NOW, does not want to wait for Joshua. We should all get together and come up with a new time SOONER rather than later, beforeI get swamped at holiday times and can't get away. Perhaps Joshua is ready again by now, you need to check with him.

Michael, yes you would be UNderscanning if you did the shimming op, but that would allow you to expand your image to fill that space, allowing MORE of your CRT face to be exposed to your viewscreen. This INCREASES your resolution! I did it on mine and am no end of happy, did both the shimming AND the expansion of the image to use ALL available CRT face space. Recent screenshots are on my Don't Dump thread, and also on the Screenshot War thread. And of course the Reference thread.

As long as your aging footprint has not set in already, of course, primarily from your recent o'scan reduction. Mine had not set in after 2 years when I did my original shimming mod, and had also not set in at 3 years when I took it in some more and expanded my images out and recentered them.

The end result is just awe inspiring! See the screenshots.

:)

b

A note of CAUTION here.

The discussion on reducing the pattern by 1.8% is on a shimmed set, you can reduced the overscan by redoing the grid but I think you won't be able to do the edges with out major feathering and that is not to mention the over strain to the electronic circutry on the set.

The grid adjustment is done to a SHIMMED set. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1129800
Understood.

Believe it or not, I've read through all 120+ pages of this thread trying to glean what I can that applies to the set I have, which isn't that much different from the F sets, but is different enough that I have to consider what can be done. I know I can achieve 4.5% overscan with minimal feathering without shimming, after all a lot of you guys were achieving that prior to the shimming technique.

My set is 8 years old so the likelihood that the reduced footprint on the crt isn't there is close to nil, though not impossible since I have erred on the side of running the set too dim. But, I sit back about 12' and that won't change, so I would be unlikely to see the difference in resolution from that distance making the shimming more work than it's worth.

The shimming op CAN be done on an aged set, you just have to keep the raster footprint where it is rather than changing the placement on the CRT faces. After the aging footprint has set in, the placement can't be changed without showing virgin phosphors at the edges.

Which would mean altering the angles of your red and blue guns for placement instead.

I agree that sitting that far away you probably won't see the differences in res from doing the shimming, but 12' is too far away to sit from these babies anyway, once fully supertweaked!

8' max!

When at 12' on a fully supertweaked set, my eyes THIRST for getting up closer. It's obvious what's being sacrificed at that long a viewing distance!

:p

I understand if it HAS to be that way for your viewing room, just wish for your sake it could be otherwise!

:)

b

I understand if it HAS to be that way for your viewing room, just wish for your sake it could be otherwise!


Ha ha I wish it could be otherwise as well. Moving the seating forward by that much would really disturb the balance of the room. I could blame it on my wife not letting me, but the truth is, I'm almost as picky as she is about how a room looks. That said what I have to sacrifice in video, I make up for in sound. The room is VERY accommodating with regard to speaker placement, including the 9.2 channels that I am working towards.


BTW, many thanks to all of the contributors to this thread. Definitely some valuable information for the ages in this thread. Over the course of the next couple of weeks I'll post a few before and after pics of my senior citizen TV. I think you'll particularly appreciate the bug or two trapped between the lens and the crt :eek:

Not to be a traitor to Hitachi on this thread - owners here KNOW I could never do that

:D

have you tried the thought of getting a 73" Mit CRT RPTV instead? The difference between 53" and 73" at 12' is night and day. Would do justice to your audio to have a really BIG cinema grade picture, for your commensurately big room. At 12', a 53" is just NOT all that big, probably looks like directview to you...

I sit 8' back from my Mit 73" CRT and am in heaven. I could do 12' on her if I had to, but don't think I could do 12' on a 53"...

CRT RPTVs are all over the used market, at sacrifice prices. Be sure it has no screenburn and has not been used as the family baby sitter...


b

It's a possibility, thought a daunting one. The room is a sunken living room, but not typically how you would imagine one. The floor is at the same level as the basement, but is totally open to the ground level floor. So basically you can look down into the living room. There is access via the basement, but all of the doors are either too small, or you have to turn corners in hallways that were too tight to even accommodate the length of the 53". That leaves only one way, coming in on the ground floor and along a path that has a handrail that's 3' high, and you have to make 2 90deg turns, one which gets you going down the stairs.

Basically imagine carrying a 73" TV about 30 feet along a path that is only wide enough for one person and then down a flight of stairs the whole while keeping the bottom of the TV at least 3' off the ground. It scared the crap out of me watching the two big guys that delivered the set maneuver that path. Much to their credit they did it, but it was no small feat.

Well at least the 73" comes apart at the middle into a top and a bottom, and the light box containing the CRTs and the circuit boards can be removed from the bottom, making it much more lightweight.

DK if that will help, but...


b

Here's a newbie question. I have started to read all about the tweaks that apply to my 51F59 and am overwhelmed. So to simplify.

I am watching the LA and Philly game in HD and I notice that the little pitch display as to where each ball is pitched on the right hand side is cut off.

But when I bring up the guide it isn't.

Also if I look to the right as a ball is being pitched and look at the crowd and then compare that to the mini picture in the guide it looks like I am missing at least 2-3 seats of people again to the right.

Is there a quick way to increase what I can see to the right and the left without having to get the jigs?

I just want to be able to see where the pitches are going for now. Later as I do like to tweak things I may get into it deeper.

Thanks for your help! -Tim

Is there a quick way to increase what I can see to the right and the left without having to get the jigs?

I just want to be able to see where the pitches are going for now. Later as I do like to tweak things I may get into it deeper.


If you just want to see more of the right OR left, first page of the service menu has H POSITION.
If you want to see more of BOTH sides, you're asking to reduce the overscan, discussed, as you've no doubt discovered, in great detail here.
Welcome aboard.

So I would lose picture on the left if I moved it over to the right?

In that case I will just live with it till I get time to reduce the overscan.

I had the convergence board replaced and I guess they(tv repair guys) just did not do a good job of adjusting it.

How long would it take to adjust the overscan? and what jigs do you recommend?(I could start reading all the previous posts but that could take some time)

Thanks Last...!

How long would it take to adjust the overscan? and what jigs do you recommend?(I could start reading all the previous posts but that could take some time)

Thanks Last...!

Days. Weeks.
Exaggerating a little, maybe, but not much. Reducing overscan is not a simple matter. Do all that reading, it will save you endless headaches (and, perhaps, your set).
The jig gets you back to the default, which can correct geometry issues. You have to MAKE a jig (or use string) for the end result (or use Mr. Bob's SuperJedi powers). The shimming mod's good, if you're up to tearing your set completely apart.
Just turning in the horiz and vert pots will do the trick, but will strain your convergence IC's, which is why it's better to do it in DCAM.
Set up your grid, line up green to the grid (RGBOUT=2). Then move red over the green, then blue.
Test it with vertical and horizontal scrolling (movie credits are ideal), fix speedbumps as needed.
Keep in mind that you will STILL have SOME overscan. There is a limitation to the technology. 2% to 3% is about the best you can do (unless you like fuzzy edges).
Good luck. Keep us posted.
Michael

Just turning in the horiz and vert pots will do the trick, but will strain your convergence IC's, which is why it's better to do it in DCAM.
Michael

Actually you strain your conv sys LESS by turning the H and W sizing pots. Assuming it's already looking fine and doesn't drift, your conv sys is already set up properly and at its optimum centerpoints all around, by the factory.

Altering the sizing pots preserves that.

What messes with it is pushing the parameters of the conv sys - the DCAM - out of well centered tolerances.

Leaving it roughly as the factory did is your best bet.

But heed Michael's warning on the rest of it. :eek:

We have all gone down that road by now, and believe me, he's not blowing smoke at ya.


;)

b

Actually you strain your conv sys LESS by turning the H and W sizing pots.
b

So then why don't we just do that? That's easy!
:confused:

So then why don't we just do that? That's easy!
:confused:

Started with an 18" circle. Shrinking it to 17.5" brought in the right side too far; flaring, no image. So I settled for 17.75". Relatively minor geometry corrections, everything looks good. As far as I can tell, overscan is under 4% all around.

Started with an 18" circle. Shrinking it to 17.5" brought in the right side too far; flaring, no image. So I settled for 17.75". Relatively minor geometry corrections, everything looks good. As far as I can tell, overscan is under 4% all around.

Are you really messing with your V - H pots? I thought that was really the last resort, or the start depending on where you are in your calibration.

Does that mean you are starting all over? I would like to see the end result.

Are we having fun yet?:D

Are you really messing with your V - H pots? I thought that was really the last resort, or the start depending on where you are in your calibration.

Does that mean you are starting all over? I would like to see the end result.

Are we having fun yet?:D

Yes.
No.
Come on over.
Yes.
:)

Tweaking your sizing pots may be the least invasive way to do it, but it doesn't prevent the hosing of the linearities and parallels involved in ANY o'scan redux.

Your pic's precision still gets hosed and has to be corrected.

It just minimizes that invasiveness as much as possible.


b

I hope you guys don't mind too much, since this is a different model..

Before:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_PH_iGZY8bN0/Stx6rSTQPmI/AAAAAAAABik/JM2Y0LKJAOs/20091019_0017.jpg

A couple of things worth noting:
Hitachi used to do a pretty decent job of blacking out the interior.
There is essentially no access to the focus rings without removing the screen. This renders the shimming mod nearly impossible, and certainly not worth the effort.

After:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_PH_iGZY8bN0/Stx6rgqGIhI/AAAAAAAABio/tITJg5qq0pY/20091019_0018.jpg

I used 2 cut up black short-sleeved shirts to cover up anything that wasn't painted black. The sleeves made nice lens "socks" :) I cleaned the lenses and the mirror. The front of the lenses were bad, the mirror was actually pretty clean, but I was so impressed with Sprayaway that I went ahead and cleaned it. My biggest mixed emotion came from removing the lenses. The bad, I'm not going to see much improvement from cleaning the coolant cups. The good, I'm not going to see much improvement because they were spotless, with the exception of a fleck of debris on the green gun which I had mistaken for a big bug when I was looking down through the lens. Apparently the lens assemblies in the older models fits much tighter against the coolant cups than the new sets. They aren't sealed, but there is less than a 16th of an inch gap, probably closer to a 32nd. I blew the bit off the green gun, and went ahead and cleaned it, but there was no noticeable improvement in clarity, so I didn't even bother removing the lenses for the other two colors.

With Image Perfection's Cantilever Technique you don't need to refocus from the back. Everything is done from the front, and the refocusing gets razor sharp on each image when the technique has been done properly. So you can shim at your leisure, refocusing later from the front is totally possible for you, because the CT involves removing the screen for adjustments, then putting it back on for each recheck. The wingnuts are totally available for supertweaking the position of your lens barrel against its turret on each color.

You check the deeper optics by licking your thumb and pressing it against the far side of the coolant cup at the top and pulling it away upwards while still pressing it there. Make sure some VERY bright content is up there, backlighting that lens.

If the spot where you put your thumb is now noticeably darker/black, your coolant cups need cleaning badly, and your lowest lens barrel lens also needs being looked at and usually cleaning as well.

Good job on the blacking out. I too used a black T shirt for the same purpose, on my year 2000 65" Panny!

;)


b

With Image Perfection's Cantilever Technique you don't need to refocus from the back. Everything is done from the front, and the refocusing gets razor sharp on each image when the technique has been done properly. So you can shim at your leisure, refocusing later is totally possible for you.

Yes I suppose that's true. :o


If the spot where you put your thumb is now noticeably darker/black, your coolant cups need it badly, and your lowest lens barrel lens also needs being looked at.


You've mentioned that before and I'm a bit puzzled by your description. Why is darker/black better? Doesn't that imply that if the entire cup is clean that it would appear very dark/black? :confused:

If the spot where you had put your thumb winds up blacker because of your having cleaned it with your wetted thumb, and the rest of the lens is still gray, then it is absolutely needing cleaning.

But not with your thumb...

:D

If your thumb cleaning of that spot results in no differences in blackness between that thumb spot and the surrounding area while being brightly backlit by bright video content - everything in there stays black - then your deeper optics don't need cleaning after all, and probably neither does your rear lens.

Mit seals things correctly - completely - and you don't need the deeper optics cleaned on them. But with Hitachi there's still an air gap between your lens barrel and your coolant cover, so you still gotta check it the right way.


b

If the spot where you had put your thumb winds up blacker because of your having cleaned it with your wetted thumb, and the rest of the lens is still gray, then it is absolutely needing cleaning.

But not with your thumb...

:D

If your thumb cleaning of that spot results in no differences in blackness between that thumb spot and the surrounding area while being brightly backlit by bright video content - everything in there stays black - then your deeper optics don't need cleaning after all, and probably neither does your rear lens.

Mit seals things correctly - completely - and you don't need the deeper optics cleaned on them. But with Hitachi there's still an air gap between your lens barrel and your coolant cover, so you still gotta check it the right way.


b

After just one year my coolant cups were completely dusty.

I'd say that answers it, unless different models use different amounts of sealing the space there between the lenses. Which I sincerely doubt...

;)

b

...unless different models use different amounts of sealing the space there between the lenses.

Maybe not intentionally ;) Comparing pictures of the two models shows that the plastic lens housing is different as is the metal plate that they mount to.

In any event the lens on the back of the barrel was as clean as the already cleaned front lens. I've had SLR cameras with interchangeable lenses for a long time, and while that certainly doesn't make me a lens expert, I do at least know what a even slightly dirty lens surface looks like. :)

So maybe the gap is tighter on the older sets, or maybe my wife keeps an exceptionally clean house (actually she does), or maybe there are fewer ways for dust to actually get into the screen area on the older sets. Actually now that I mention it, to take the screen off not only do you have to remove screws from the bottom of the screen, but you have to pop it off tension clips that snap into the bezel. There's 3 on each side, you can seen them in the second picture. Is that the same for the F's? I know it makes for a harrowing experience.

In any event the lens on the back of the barrel was as clean as the already cleaned front lens. I've had SLR cameras with interchangeable lenses for a long time, and while that certainly doesn't make me a lens expert, I do at least know what a even slightly dirty lens surface looks like. :)



It's not the bottom lens itself that gets very dirty. It's the coolant cups. Used to see little moths and stuff accumulate on my set, as well as a lot of dust.

Hi...I was just wondering if a person can use a universal remote since I don't have original remote that came with tv. Any help would be appreciated. I was given this tv. When tv turns on all the colors are not alligned and the display is out of whack. How do I fix this?

Hi...I was just wondering if a person can use a universal remote since I don't have original remote that came with tv. Any help would be appreciated. I was given this tv. When tv turns on all the colors are not alligned and the display is out of whack. How do I fix this?

Guess you got what you paid for. :D

I use a Harmony 880 and it works beautifully. There are certainly less expensive alternatives, depending on the rest of your system. Without the original remote, you just take advantage of Harmony's database; all their models use the same codes.

"Out of whack" is easy to fix. Call Mr. Bob and he'll spend two or three days making your set the envy of the neighborhood. Want to do it for free? Start at the beginning of this thread, read every word, take notes, and be prepared to spend a lot of time. THEN you can be the envy of your neighborhood. ;)

HI, LEE! :D
Great to see you again. Did you see my calibration results:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=17371088&postcount=5953
You're the one who got most of us started on this nonsense, you know. Thanks (I think).
And, hey, I think this makes post 1200!

Hi...I was just wondering if a person can use a universal remote since I don't have original remote that came with tv. Any help would be appreciated. I was given this tv. When tv turns on all the colors are not alligned and the display is out of whack. How do I fix this?

Yes you can. But I don't know if the service mode functions the same way with one.

A good Logitech Harmony remote or a URC branded remote should work.

You can also find the original remotes online. Look for a CLU-4361S remote control.

The simplest thing to do would be to press the Magic Focus button on the TV's front panel.

Maybe not intentionally ;) Comparing pictures of the two models shows that the plastic lens housing is different as is the metal plate that they mount to.

In any event the lens on the back of the barrel was as clean as the already cleaned front lens. I've had SLR cameras with interchangeable lenses for a long time, and while that certainly doesn't make me a lens expert, I do at least know what a even slightly dirty lens surface looks like. :)

So maybe the gap is tighter on the older sets, or maybe my wife keeps an exceptionally clean house (actually she does), or maybe there are fewer ways for dust to actually get into the screen area on the older sets. Actually now that I mention it, to take the screen off not only do you have to remove screws from the bottom of the screen, but you have to pop it off tension clips that snap into the bezel. There's 3 on each side, you can seen them in the second picture. Is that the same for the F's? I know it makes for a harrowing experience.

Well speaking from experience my coolant cups were terribly dusty. Not only that it had a big old thumb print on one from the factory. I would be surprised if there were any sets more than a year old that didn't need a cleaning. Then again who knows. My 51" does have enough of a gap to let dust in. Now my bottom lense was in great shape. Just the top and coolant were dirty.

Man what gain level is the screen on this TV? It's sizzles it's so bright. I find it looks best sitting off to the side. Which is what I do mainly while smoking cigars by the fireplace, plus a little single malt.

Nice TV.

Man what gain level is the screen on this TV? It's sizzles it's so bright. I find it looks best sitting off to the side. Which is what I do mainly while smoking cigars by the fireplace, plus a little single malt.

Nice TV.

If you're running your contrast at over half, you're making lots of critical things in there go nonlinear. And preaging your guns.

And cigar smoke is the LAST thing I would want my internal optics exposed to. And my plastic lenticular screen.

:eek:

I have seen yellow drips on the lent from too much tobacco smoke.

Except for soot from a Kerosun heater, which WOULD be worse, but not by much...

Sorry, just had to get that out. It has nothing to do with the fact that I love pipe smoke, but hate cigar smoke...

:o


b

So, I've read through this ENTIRE 125 page forum on RPTV's, trying to find a solution to my issue, and I either missed it, or it's not there, so I apologize if I'm asking an answered question...

I have an '06 51F59 that I kinda got schemed on. I bought it from a lady for $150 who 'could only show it to me in her garage' when I wanted to see it working... (which was advertised as works great, not a single problem.) Now I know why... The color is way out of whack, which wasn't obvious outdoors in the sunlight. Now that it's in my bedroom, when I change the color temp settings, it literally has a washed out green, then blue, then red.

So- Following the forum, I have gone through the service menu and coompared it to the service manual... Ugh... It's a huge clusterfudged mess. I tried "Reset Factory Defaults" but th doesn't change the values in the service menu. Will doing a Memory Initialize reset to factory, or should I just go through and change everything back to the service manual specs, one by one? (I know this won't make my picture perfect, I just want a good starting point for my tweaking.) The geometry seems perfect, convergence and focus are dead on, I just want semi-normal color. I'm not a die-hard HDTV connaisseur, just wanna watch tv that isn't green... or blue... Or red.

I've literally only been dealing with making these kind of changes on a TV like this for 4 days, but I'm not intimidated by it, and don't mind long hours of adjustmens, as long as it's in the right direction. Clearly, Mr. Bob is a valuable resource to this thread, and any input would be greatly appreciated!

-PS The HDMI fix worked for my images going whacked-out and crazy, so THANKS SO MUCH for that one!

Your tinting may be in your settings, and it may be in your Screen trimpot alignment. If it's your trimpot alignment, don't change any settings in your sm.

Your STD is hopefully near the color of an overcast cloudy day, on B/W material, like the original Casablanca. If so, your sm regs may be altered successfully to get you to D6500K. If not, your trimpots will need realignment before you do any sm register work.


b

Just thought I'd throw this out there. I've had the TV for 3 years now and I've been putting off cleaning the lenses. It just intimidated me, to be honest. Well, I had a guy out to repair the HDMI port (thank you RepairMaster warranty... saved me $451!!).

Anyhoo, I told him to go ahead and leave the back panel off so I could clean the lenses. Turns out they are extremely easy to get to with that panel removed. I was expecting to have to take apart half the TV or contort my arm to reach. That was pleasant surprise #1 (or 2, if you count saving $451). So I get my Windex and plain white paper towels ready. I sprayed the first lense with what was probably too much and dove in with the paper towel. You really do have to dive FAST because that liquid really wants to pool up on the downhill side of the lense. I then gently swiped the lense with a rolling motion to "scoop" up the dust. And it was dusty!

Rinse and repeat twice more and I've got sparkly clean lenses again. Much easier than I imagined it would be (pleasant surprise #2). It was a big enough difference that I had to go through and recalibrate with my Avia disk. Apparently I had bumped up the contrast, brightness, etc. here and there over the last three years to compensate for the dust :o

I feel like I've got a new TV (pleasant surprise #3). I'd highly encourage everyone to do it. It's much easier than I thought and I really should have done it a long time ago.

Will doing a Memory Initialize reset to factory, or should I just go through and change everything back to the service manual specs, one by one? (I know this won't make my picture perfect, I just want a good starting point for my tweaking.)

Best bet is probably to reset everything to factory defaults by going through the sm. Unfortunately (for you), Hitachi changes the HIGH white balance for each set individually. But you'll be closer.
The only differences I had from the sm are:
S-GAIN-SW which is listed as 00; my set came set to 01 and that's what it should be; and
M-GAIN-SW which should be kept at 00.
If everything else is "perfect," then you got deal. Happy tweaking.

Just thought I'd throw this out there. I've had the TV for 3 years now and I've been putting off cleaning the lenses. It just intimidated me, to be honest. Well, I had a guy out to repair the HDMI port (thank you RepairMaster warranty... saved me $451!!).

Anyhoo, I told him to go ahead and leave the back panel off so I could clean the lenses. Turns out they are extremely easy to get to with that panel removed. I was expecting to have to take apart half the TV or contort my arm to reach. That was pleasant surprise #1 (or 2, if you count saving $451). So I get my Windex and plain white paper towels ready. I sprayed the first lense with what was probably too much and dove in with the paper towel. You really do have to dive FAST because that liquid really wants to pool up on the downhill side of the lense. I then gently swiped the lense with a rolling motion to "scoop" up the dust. And it was dusty!

Rinse and repeat twice more and I've got sparkly clean lenses again. Much easier than I imagined it would be (pleasant surprise #2). It was a big enough difference that I had to go through and recalibrate with my Avia disk. Apparently I had bumped up the contrast, brightness, etc. here and there over the last three years to compensate for the dust :o

I feel like I've got a new TV (pleasant surprise #3). I'd highly encourage everyone to do it. It's much easier than I thought and I really should have done it a long time ago.

If you didn't do your mirror you're not done yet. If the undersides of the lenses and the coolant covers of the CRTs are dirty, you're not done yet. There's always 4 surfaces to do and sometimes 10, depending on whether the dust and smoke have crept down under the bottoms of the lenses, at the gap that is there on some brands, between the lenses and coolant covers.

Don't use Windex with Ammonia D on anything in there, including the plastic lenses.

I know you're seeing a massive difference already, and I congratulate you.

;)

But I want you to have a crystal clear light path, all the way from your CRT faces to your screens.

It is NOT worn out, like the bleariness from dirty optics makes it look. Those surfaces just need to be cleaned, and properly. Looks like you did that, just not on enough of the surfaces involved.

When you do, it will be like new again. You'll get blazing dynamic punch you have not seen out of your picture for literally years.


b

I'm ready to curb it. There is NOBODY within 130 miles that services Rear Projection units...:mad:

I manually reset everything back to the defaults from the SM, and the picture is just way out of whack... I included a picture with a screencapture from Iron Man.

I've tried using Avia and setting Tint, Color, Brightness, and Sharpness, but it's still just... Well, obviously screwed up. Any input?

It's cloudy and bleary-looking, but all of that age are, it's simply the optics having gotten dirty over the years and needing a thorough cleaning. That 30KV really does a number on the optics, and there are 10 surfaces in there that typically get contaminated. With that kind of voltage setting up static charge, there's no getting around it. At your set's age it is in desperate need of professional grade cleaning. And don't let just anybody do it. The surfaces are very vulnerable, and damage is permanent.

Getting your optics back to crystal clear all the way thru is like having a new RPTV. The results are simply stunning.

I coach owners by phone all over the continent on this operation. They have no problem accomplishing these miracles in their own homes, on their own displays.


b


http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9716/22209stevemock710baltim.jpg[/URL]
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7551/22209stevemock710baltimuz7.jpg[/URL]


7 year old Pioneer Elite, same day before and after a full cal, including internal blackening with a black Sharpie or 2 - different sizes - plus both levels of optics cleaning including the deeper optics cleaning.

Pix are mirror imaged, sorry, done by my roomie the one who scanned them -


Before -

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/3281/opticsbeforebackwards.jpg

After -

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1382/opticsafterzt4.jpg[/URL]

If you didn't do your mirror you're not done yet. If the undersides of the lenses and the coolant covers of the CRTs are dirty, you're not done yet. There's always 4 surfaces to do and sometimes 10, depending on whether the dust and smoke have crept down under the bottoms of the lenses, at the gap that is there on some brands, between the lenses and coolant covers.

Don't use Windex with Ammonia D on anything in there, including the plastic lenses.


Oops. I went ahead and used Windex with Ammonia D because I read previously that you just shouldn't use it on the mirror. Would using it once cause permanent damage to the lenses? I looked at the mirror and it looked perfectly clean, but I was looking at it from a pretty awkward angle. I need to replace the screen soon, so I'll get a better look at the mirror at that point.

I don't think 1 cleaning of the lenses with ammonia D will hurt anything, but don't push it and keep doing it every year. Even I didn't know this about ammonia - that it can hurt plastic, this had been googled and pointed out to me from a totally off the beaten path source - until recently.

Don't worry, you'll be OK. I have even used it on front surface mirrors way back before HD, and never had any casualties there either.

Just better to be safe than sorry...

Have you checked and/or cleaned your deeper optics yet?


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Just better to be safe than sorry...

Have you checked and/or cleaned your deeper optics yet?


Good to know, thanks.

No, I haven't done either. Is there an easy way to check and see if they need cleaning before disassembling everything?

Yes. Look down inside, it will show primarily inside the green one. Look all the way down, thru the various lenses to the final lens and the coolant cover beneath.

If you see a blanket of dust down there being backlit by strong video content, it's needed.


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I'm ready to curb it. There is NOBODY within 130 miles that services Rear Projection units...:mad:

I manually reset everything back to the defaults from the SM, and the picture is just way out of whack... I included a picture with a screencapture from Iron Man.

I've tried using Avia and setting Tint, Color, Brightness, and Sharpness, but it's still just... Well, obviously screwed up. Any input?

I may be wrong but this looks to me like what Bob said. Very dirty lenses and mirror. If you haven't done that then do. I promise you will be shocked.

Been going thru the SM lately, just being bored. I'm wondering what you guys have statg2 set at. I had it at 00 for the longest time, but last night while watching TFE, I noticed that the difference between 00 and 03 is a HUGE one.

In the scene where Aknot has the black guy's face and is a waiter on the ship, look at his shirt(jacket) when he goes into the room with the rest of the Mangalors. He has a bright white shirt(jacket) on, and it has a crease in the shoulder area. With statg2 at 00 the whites are too blown out to see it, but from 01 to 03 it becomes visible.

Thoughts?

Been going thru the SM lately, just being bored. I'm wondering what you guys have statg2 set at. I had it at 00 for the longest time, but last night while watching TFE, I noticed that the difference between 00 and 03 is a HUGE one.

Thoughts?

That would be here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13958772&postcount=2164

Fortunately, the changes are not as dramatic to the gamma curve as, say, STATG1, but, since flatter is better, I have mine at 03. Which, I believe, is the default (oddly enough).

Next time you're REALLY bored, read through Kal's guide to greyscale, pick up a colorimeter for $100 - $150, and start having REAL fun:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Then you'll KNOW how the changes affect your picture.

Couldn't find the end results here (thought they'd be on this thread, but maybe not), so sorry if this is a repost:

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/4298/rgblevels.jpg

My current results. Screenshots on Leo's (color decoding) thread.

That would be here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13958772&postcount=2164

Fortunately, the changes are not as dramatic to the gamma curve as, say, STATG1, but, since flatter is better, I have mine at 03. Which, I believe, is the default (oddly enough).

Next time you're REALLY bored, read through Kal's guide to greyscale, pick up a colorimeter for $100 - $150, and start having REAL fun:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Then you'll KNOW how the changes affect your picture.

Couldn't find the end results here (thought they'd be on this thread, but maybe not), so sorry if this is a repost:

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/4298/rgblevels.jpg

My current results. Screenshots on Leo's (color decoding) thread.

I actually have an EyeOne and have read Kal's guide, and have done my grayscale........it was so fun, I'm glad I don't have to do it again. lol.

I don't know how I missed my StatG2 at 00 and left it there, I calibrated the other two Hitachi's with it at 03. It definitely should not be at 00 just by looking at program material alone. Thanks for the repost, didn't feel like looking through everything.

That would be here:

... Fortunately, the changes are not as dramatic to the gamma curve as, say, STATG1, but, since flatter is better, I have mine at 03. Which, I believe, is the default (oddly enough).

...Then you'll KNOW how the changes affect your picture.



I'm still awaiting Michael's Eye-One, the idea was (is) to compare the results from the Spyder2 and the Eye-One on a Hitachi 57F59.

All these changes, hopefully will be documented and graphed with the results.

Maybe if the Post Office ever finds Michael's $150.00 toy. I know... now I feel really guilty.

I actually have an EyeOne and have read Kal's guide, and have done my grayscale........it was so fun, I'm glad I don't have to do it again. lol.


Interested in selling it? Looks like I could use one. :(

Is there an easy way to check and see if they need cleaning before disassembling everything?

After you have followed my advice above about looking for a blanket of dust inside there, look back at post #3719, one page back in this thread, and follow it for a few more posts.


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Interested in selling it? Looks like I could use one. :(

It's actually on very extended loan from a friend. I need to buy one that's actually mine.