Does anyone know if the screen of a 57F710S would fit the 57F59A that I have?


My screen has been cracked for months and a local guy has a dead 710 selling on Craigslist for $50 with a perfect screen.

Thanks

Usually within the same brand name, a 57" is a 57" is a 57".

b

Good deal..I may break down and take a chance since the guy lives nearby...only other issue is how to dispose of the used beast once I take out the screen.


Thanks
:)

Blue is tracking, it is just running out of steam. That's why you sometimes have to bring the other two down to bring blue up.

Just saying that messing with the trim pots is the last thing you should do. Also, you didn't answer my question on your meter status.;)

Time for Mr. Bob to make a visit to your TV!:D

BTW, I still use a RPTV, it just happens to use LEDs and a light engine instead of CRTs!

How are you liking your tv? How does it stack up against the Hitachi you had previously? I'm really interested in knowing your honest opinion.

Just wanted to take the opportunity to post a picture of my awesome tv, even if I have already...


http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a100/lordcloud/IMG_20101211_131451-1.jpg

Does anyone know if the screen of a 57F710S would fit the 57F59A that I have?


My screen has been cracked for months and a local guy has a dead 710 selling on Craigslist for $50 with a perfect screen.

Thanks

It should. My little one cracked the screen on my 51F59A and I ended up replacing it with a bezel/screen from a 51F710A. I think it comes with an extra screen for protection which introduces a lot of glare but it's mostly worth it due to extra protection. Also the bezel on the xxF710 is grey instead of black and doesn't quite match the grey on the xxF59A. Here's what my 51F59A looks like with the 51F710A bezel/screen:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=20097897&postcount=4451

I'd get it ASAP!

Just wanted to take the opportunity to post a picture of my awesome tv, even if I have already...


http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a100/lordcloud/IMG_20101211_131451-1.jpg

Great shot! Send us one without the room lighting interfering tho, like it is doing here -

b

Just wanted to take the opportunity to post a picture of my awesome tv, even if I have already...

Gee, I wonder what that would look like to a meter. ;)
That's right! You have one! :D
Oh, right, it's MINE! :p
Done yet? :)
Michael

Also the bezel on the xxF710 is grey instead of black and doesn't quite match the grey on the xxF59A.

It's not that hard to take the screens out and put them in the other frame. You may want to take the old one apart first to see what's involved. It is, of course, possible to crack everything again, so you need to wear gloves (to keep from getting fingerprints on the screens) and to keep everything as flat as possible.
Or just keep the room dark!
:D

Hey guys sorry for being LOA for so long. Life has been hectic. I sent Michael and Lordcloud messages just so you guys know.

My set still has that fluctuation in it but not as frequent as before. I would call it a loss of contrast and color and then a return. Probably a voltage issues. I dont know but it happens less than before so I can live with it for now.

I'm also considering a ceiling mounted CRT projector system as a possible replacement if this one goes. Any thoughts or tips?

How are you liking your tv? How does it stack up against the Hitachi you had previously? I'm really interested in knowing your honest opinion.

I'll be honest. Once I calibrated the DLP, it has a gorgeous picture! I would put it ahead of the Hitachi. Though I definitely enjoyed that set as well.

It's not that hard to take the screens out and put them in the other frame. You may want to take the old one apart first to see what's involved. It is, of course, possible to crack everything again, so you need to wear gloves (to keep from getting fingerprints on the screens) and to keep everything as flat as possible.
Or just keep the room dark!
:D

And when you are handling that lenticular, the one with the vertical ribs, be sure to NOT turn it vertical! It's much weaker in that direction. Keep it in the direction it's presently in.

And don't lay either layer down on the floor where they will pick up debris from their own static fields -

b

Hey guys sorry for being LOA for so long. Life has been hectic. I sent Michael and Lordcloud messages just so you guys know.

My set still has that fluctuation in it but not as frequent as before. I would call it a loss of contrast and color and then a return. Probably a voltage issues. I dont know but it happens less than before so I can live with it for now.

I'm also considering a ceiling mounted CRT projector system as a possible replacement if this one goes. Any thoughts or tips?

Any of the nice ceiling pjs capable of line doubling/tripling will do a superb job of 1080i/p HD, rendering pix far better now than ANY video material available back when they were designed and built! There was no HD then! Yet they were built to interpret any scanrate available then, and that now applies to today's HD scanrates, without any modifications needed or even possible, at the projectors. They are ready to go as we speak.

The difference between even the best $20,000 Faroudja scaler of its time on the best 480i material of that time period vs. today's 1080i/p HD sent directly to those same vintage sets from back then is head and shoulders/night and day. No contest. HD wins hands down on these projectors, every time. Properly dialed in ceiling pjs from their "bygone era" on today's 1080p HD simply smoke everything else out there, including CRT RPTVs, where the differences are subtle but still there. See the Screenshot War!!!!!!!! thread for examples of primo, primo screenshots from them.

As such I encourage everyone to find one locally, buy it for pennies on the dollar, and call me! I will trick it out like you would not believe -

:cool:


b

Any of the nice ceiling pjs capable of line doubling/tripling will do a superb job of 1080i/p HD, rendering pix far better now than ANY video material available back when they were designed and built! There was no HD then! Yet they were built to interpret any scanrate available then, and that now applies to today's HD scanrates, without any modifications needed or even possible, at the projectors. They are ready to go as we speak.

The difference between even the best $20,000 Faroudja scaler of its time on the best 480i material of that time period vs. today's 1080i/p HD sent directly to those same vintage sets from back then is head and shoulders/night and day. No contest. HD wins hands down on these projectors, every time. Properly dialed in ceiling pjs from their "bygone era" on today's 1080p HD simply smoke everything else out there, including CRT RPTVs, where the differences are subtle but still there. See the Screenshot War!!!!!!!! thread for examples of primo, primo screenshots from them.

As such I encourage everyone to find one locally, buy it for pennies on the dollar, and call me! I will trick it out like you would not believe -

:cool:


b

Sounds cool. I was wondering just how good they could be. I also looked at the DLP and LCD versions but I'm not so sure about those. Maybe its that one lense only projecting every color through it. I really dont know the science of it all but what I'm really looking for is a FP with the quality of my current set. I have to tell you guys that I still think the CRT RP sets just look so much better than even the new LCD/LED's.

Sounds cool. I was wondering just how good they could be. I also looked at the DLP and LCD versions but I'm not so sure about those. Maybe its that one lense only projecting every color through it. I really dont know the science of it all but what I'm really looking for is a FP with the quality of my current set. I have to tell you guys that I still think the CRT RP sets just look so much better than even the new LCD/LED's.

One very important thing to consider with FP is light control. The room does not need to be pitch black, but if you really want the best contrast you can have the darker the room the better, but not a must. And of course to avoid direct light of any kind to the screen.

To me, CRT still king, now that doesn't come easy, CRTs need a lot more set up work and upkeep to maintain a top notch PQ, but they are as capable as the newer projectors.

Another major draw is picture size, you could have a 110" diagonal picture with no problem.

you can search videogon and curtpalme sites to get an idea where prices for CRTs are.

And in case anybody has any doubts, I left out the word CRT in my post above, when talking about ceiling projectors. But all comments made in my last post refer to CRT (usually front) ceiling projectors, the triple gun kind. In case anybody has any doubts...

:D

Mustang, the front-firing ceiling pjs were many times as expensive as our CRT RPTVs and had advanced electronics that ours just didn't have. So yes they will look better than our RPTV versions. I have a Barco Data 800 ceiling pj in my garage that I have used on my sun room wall, and with an even bigger picture than my 73" Mit, it is still crisper and with more depth than the Mit. And that's with 8" guns vs. my Mit's 9" guns.

Leo, if you do a rear projecting scenario using a front projector, you can get away with a lot more room lighting before starting to compromise those fine, inky blacks. A reflecting screen will compromise those blacks by reflecting back in the blacks whatever is going on in the room as far as ambient lighting goes. In a rear projecting scenario where everything behind the translucent screen - or in best case scenario, the same kind of fresnel/lenticular sandwich screens our CRT RPTVs use - absorbs that ambient light and keeps the blacks much much darker than a front projection scenario does, when factoring in the picture-compromising effects of ambient room lighting. When of course the intrepid calibrator or installer who set the whole thing up makes sure everything behind that screen is either blackened or black already!

Which is one reason our CRT RPTVs do so much better in the daytime than front projection does. It would be very effective even with a translucent screen, but since ours are the fresnel/lenticular kind - the best - our projected light levels get gathered and aimed and basically turbo-torch beamed at us, whenever we are sitting within the horizontal sweet spot of a horizontal line drawn across the room straight out from the screen. Alert owners/viewers even make sure their screens are pointed slightly down if necessary, to accommodate couches that make eye levels lower than the actual horizontal line firing straight out from the screen's center.

I know in your viewing room this is unnecessary, but in mine I use a 2x4 under the rear of my Mit to tilt it down just enough to have the sweet spot hitting my eyes whenever I am sitting on that couch, rendering my eyes the highest light levels possible in the current setup.

;)

b

...

:D

Leo, if you do a rear projecting scenario using a front projector, you can get away with a lot more room lighting before starting to compromise those fine, inky blacks. A reflecting screen will compromise those blacks by reflecting back in the blacks whatever is going on in the room as far as ambient lighting goes. In a rear projecting scenario where everything behind the translucent screen - or in best case scenario, the same kind of fresnel/lenticular sandwich screens our CRT RPTVs use - absorbs that ambient light and keeps the blacks much much darker than a front projection scenario does, when factoring in the picture-compromising effects of ambient room lighting. When of course the intrepid calibrator or installer who set the whole thing up makes sure everything behind that screen is either blackened or black already!

...
;)

b

I've experimented and used rear projection using spandex for DJing setup, and actually works pretty well. Of course the PQ and fidelity is not quite to the standards for movie watching, but works very well.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/IMG_5156.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/Vics15.jpg

Wow, Leo, that looks great! In the second pic it almost looks like you have a triple-gun ceiling pj behind it, throwing the image. I know that's not the case, what looks like that is simply your party lighting mounted to the frame, but...

Fantastic!


b

I'll be honest. Once I calibrated the DLP, it has a gorgeous picture! I would put it ahead of the Hitachi. Though I definitely enjoyed that set as well.

I like the honesty. What paramaters of the picture would you rate as above the Hitachi, and to what extent?

I like the honesty. What paramaters of the picture would you rate as above the Hitachi, and to what extent?

First off, the resolution. Being a full 1920 x 1080 screen does make a difference, though being a RPTV, there is still some overscan.
For me, the depth of the picture has increased as well.
Having a 2D adjustable CMS enables me to get a almost measurably perfect Color Saturation and Hue.


Minuses:
Black levels look excellent with program materials, but not with the actual test patterns. At full screen 0% black, it is obvious the screen is not pitch black.
The RED Luminance is high, and cannot be brought down any other way than with the COLOR control.

First off, the resolution. Being a full 1920 x 1080 screen does make a difference, though being a RPTV, there is still some overscan.
For me, the depth of the picture has increased as well.
Having a 2D adjustable CMS enables me to get a almost measurably perfect Color Saturation and Hue.


Minuses:
Black levels look excellent with program materials, but not with the actual test patterns. At full screen 0% black, it is obvious the screen is not pitch black.
The RED Luminance is high, and cannot be brought down any other way than with the COLOR control.

Even movie film is not completely black. Watch for that next time you're out at the movies when the screen goes black.

It's the contrast ratio - static AND dynamic - that tells the real story. Organic LED has had the best CR I have seen yet, at a true 1 million:1 contrast ratio, static and dynamic. At the time I saw it, Sony was the only brand that had achieved it with organic LED yet, but I missed this year's CES and perhaps some changes are in play that I don't know about yet.

If the grayscale is dead on but the red luminance is too high, that's the classic definition of red push, and involves the color decoding. And you need special registers to be able to alter that. The late model Hitachis all have that, either in sm or User menu depending on model and year.

Or use component and install a variable attenuator to the Pr line, and adjust accordingly. But if you don't use HDMI on a digital set like a DLP, you'll lose your 1:1, bit to bit pixel mapping.

b

I apologize if this problem has already been addressed. The thread is so long now I could not find it if it was.
I have had this TV for almost 5 years now. The picture if beautiful! However, I recently noticed a horizontal band or line that scrolls up the screen. It is more noticeable with lighter backgrounds (especially white). Since I watch a lot of hockey, it is even more noticeable. Is there a fix for this? Thanks!

Hum bar, from bad grounding, which can be either too much - ground loop - or too little - ingress noise.

Try disonnecting everything and start with one thing and keep reconnecting your sources, and see when the bar kicks in.

I have seen this mostly on cable, where if you disco the coax, the problem disappears. In which case you install a ground isolator in series with your coax from the cable - or its box - to your set. This allows the signal to get thru unimpeded and still shielded, but without the 2 grounds actually touching each other.

You can make one yourself by using 2 baluns and connecting the flat wire ends to each other, allowing each of the coax other ends to go to the other coaxes involved.

b

Bob, thanks for helping. I tried what you said but still have the translucent band. I even tried disconnecting other household items to no avail. Any other advice?

Bob, thanks for helping. I tried what you said but still have the translucent band. I even tried disconnecting other household items to no avail. Any other advice?

Is the signal coming from a satellite feed? If so try grounding your dish, it sure sounds like a ground loop.

Right. That's all I know, myself. If you have an old VCR, send in an RF modulated signal on ch. 3 or 4 with all other devices completely out of circuit - disconnected. Make sure the power cords from both your VCR and your display go to the same wall socket or power strip.

If the bar disappears, keep hooking up devices till you get the bar again. If it's still there, you may have an internal grounding problem inside your display.

These boards only go so far. Eventually you may have to actually spring for some live local technical help!

:)

b

Help here. Anyone know anything good or bad about this FP model

NEC 9PG Plus CRT Projector

I can get one for under $100 but would need to ship it from Kansas or some other location to TX.

Help here. Anyone know anything good or bad about this FP model

NEC 9PG Plus CRT Projector

I can get one for under $100 but would need to ship it from Kansas or some other location to TX.

One of the best places for CRTs FP

http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_Intermediate.shtm

Help here. Anyone know anything good or bad about this FP model

NEC 9PG Plus CRT Projector

I can get one for under $100 but would need to ship it from Kansas or some other location to TX.

One of the finest. Make sure it has relatively low hours and has no screenburn.

b

One of the best places for CRTs FP

http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_Intermediate.shtm

Yea I looked there too. I was going to mount this in my closet and frame a hole from there into my living room. That way I would not have to ceiling mount it. No space required. However the wall is on 16" centers and the projector is wider than that. I'm not about to move a stud just to get a projector in there. Other than that the CRT projectors are to big for my living room with its 8' ceiling.

The LCD's, DLP and other types will fit though due to their size. I like the idea of a projector so I need to consider everything. Here it is on Ebay. Can you guys look at these pics and tell me what you think. Is that burn in on the shot with the three guns.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260785359032&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Yea I looked there too. I was going to mount this in my closet and frame a hole from there into my living room. That way I would not have to ceiling mount it. No space required. However the wall is on 16" centers and the projector is wider than that. I'm not about to move a stud just to get a projector in there. Other than that the CRT projectors are to big for my living room with its 8' ceiling.

The LCD's, DLP and other types will fit though due to their size. I like the idea of a projector so I need to consider everything. Here it is on Ebay. Can you guys look at these pics and tell me what you think. Is that burn in on the shot with the three guns.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260785359032&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

There are plenty of CRT FP installations with the projector actually on the ground with a table top as a cover... that seems to work well with these type of projectors.

Keep in mind that these projectors are commercial grade projectors designed to be on 24/7 and they were 20K and up when new. They are still used for military and simulators applications.

There are plenty of CRT FP installations with the projector actually on the ground with a table top as a cover... that seems to work well with these type of projectors.

Keep in mind that these projectors are commercial grade projectors designed to be on 24/7 and they were 20K and up when new. They are still used for military and simulators applications.

Thanks Leo. Can you look at that pic though and tell me if that is Burn In that I'm seeing?

Yea I looked there too. I was going to mount this in my closet and frame a hole from there into my living room. That way I would not have to ceiling mount it. No space required. However the wall is on 16" centers and the projector is wider than that. I'm not about to move a stud just to get a projector in there. Other than that the CRT projectors are to big for my living room with its 8' ceiling.

The LCD's, DLP and other types will fit though due to their size. I like the idea of a projector so I need to consider everything. Here it is on Ebay. Can you guys look at these pics and tell me what you think. Is that burn in on the shot with the three guns.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260785359032&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

There's no screenburn showing on either the pic or the video. Nor can whether it's there or not be ascertained from anything in your post. You don't have that info yet, from what I see in your post.

Typical contrast ratio of CRT ceiling pjs is more than 100,000:1. 15,000:1 has gotta be a misprint on the owner's part. That would be a semi-good static rating for fixed pixel/bulb driven, low for dynamic.

For CRT it's just not even in the ballpark of what CRT is really capable of, and does not begin to do justice to the owner's unit, there, and how it can really perform, just by being a CRT.

b

Hey gang - thought I'd pop by & see what is up in the old F59 thread.

NOthing to report on my end, other than my 51F59 still chugging along nicely. Did an optics cleaning last weekend, but otherwise all good.

Currently am using the lone HDMI input for my new Apple TV. No weirdness to be found in terms of HDMI issues (which is good, as the current gen Apple TV is HDMI only, save for it's optical out).

Great little box if you happen to run all your media thru iTunes. Have since learned that the 2nd gen ATV runs on a modified iOs operating system, so these devices can be jailbroken like iPhones/iPads. However, not a whole lot of stuff to add @ this point - tends to be more for those who utilize media organizers other than iTunes (one can also get a workable Hulu via some hacking).

May jailbreak mine if/when more apps that would serve me well come to pass. Until then, I gotta say that everything via ATV to the F59 looks great. Far superior when it comes to things like Netflix vs. what we used before (Wii). While ATV will only output 720p, said resolution looks great on the Hitachi. Have been using Ripit (DVD ripper) & Handbrake (compression) to rip most all of our old DVDs to an ext. HDD on our Mac. So far, we have eliminated the need to have half or more of those to be out on a shelf. The ripped DVDs are compressed down to "digital copy" levels (1.5 GB avg size). Dolby Digital audio is preserved (no DTS unfortunately) & the video looks surprisingly good - certainly damn close to what said DVD looks like from our Panny BD player via component. I assume a certain level of upconversion is happening as the movies (and well...everything) is output @ 720p. DVD rips via ATV are certainly not BD quality, but are certainly very watchable. Plus, having all our photos & our rather large iTunes music library at our disposal on the living room HT system is sweet.

Anyway, just checking in w/ the F59 gang here. Hope all is well with you & yours...and your CRT RPTVs!

Good deal..I may break down and take a chance since the guy lives nearby...only other issue is how to dispose of the used beast once I take out the screen.


Thanks
:)

If you have 2 completely good sets save for 1 of the screens needing replaced, why not just buy the replacement screen and have 2 usable sets? One of which could be sold, possibly to one of the readers of this thread.

Or find a non-working set for free that has some exotic problem they didn't want to spend $ fixing but whose screen is still good. Then off the non-working, unscreened hulk to a recycler, where they get paid by the pound.

b

Hey gang - thought I'd pop by & see what is up in the old F59 thread.

...


Anyway, just checking in w/ the F59 gang here. Hope all is well with you & yours...and your CRT RPTVs!

Good to see you! The owners here have a lot to thank you for, on that pesky HDMI issue! So glad you were tenacious enough to bring that elephant down!

;)

b

Good to see you! The owners here have a lot to thank you for, on that pesky HDMI issue! So glad you were tenacious enough to bring that elephant down!

;)

b

Considering HDMI is the only option for the new little Apple box...me too!!

While ATV will only output 720p, said resolution looks great on the Hitachi. Have been using Ripit (DVD ripper) & Handbrake (compression) to rip most all of our old DVDs to an ext. HDD on our Mac.

Might want to try the new patched version of TsMuxeR for the mac:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1ZDZHPJU

Just cleaned the lenses and it looks great. What beautiful colors and depth. I know it will die one day and I will be looking at a new set and new tech but for right now I'm happy.

Now if only you could get it calibrated.
;)

Now if only you could get it calibrated.
;)

Yea that sucks. I mean its calibarated to the best of my ability but I know I could get it just a little closer with that EyeOne. I wonder what happended there. I really never received it or a notice or anything.

Yea that sucks. I mean its calibarated to the best of my ability but I know I could get it just a little closer with that EyeOne. I wonder what happended there. I really never received it or a notice or anything.

I read somewhere of someone that mailed a package to a relative with the wrong address, the address did not even exist, but the Post Office was trying to figure if the address was just incorrect, so it went to over 50 similar addresses until it was sent back to the sender. It took several years to get the package back... BUT it made it back.

Forgive me for not holding my breath.
:(
Now I'm working on the audio!
:eek:

Yea that sucks. I mean its calibarated to the best of my ability but I know I could get it just a little closer with that EyeOne. I wonder what happended there. I really never received it or a notice or anything.

Have you gotten all the image structure work done?

b

Have you gotten all the image structure work done?

b

Most. Still tweaking it. Such a beautiful picture as is though so I can live with some imperfection.

Well the decision has been made. The color issues have returned with the red phasing in an out. I am looking for a replacement technology. So far Plasma is leading the pack due to the blacks being closer to the blacks of CRT. I hate to do it but the size of the set in a small room has been fine with me until which time it gave out. Then I always knew I would look for a projector or a flat panel. Hate to do it because the set is so beautiful.

Haven't completely made up my mind yet because I love this set so much. I'm just not going to spend the money to fix it when I can spend the exact amount of money to buy a 1080p Plasma FP or even a small projector. My wife has been patient with the amount of room this set takes up but now with the color fading in and out its time to start looking.

I have had the same problem with my set for about the last two years. Not only does the red phase in and out, but once it stops it has either a red or green tint to the picture.Then sometimes its ok for a while and the picture looks awesome! It is a shame because these sets can look almost better than any tv I have seen, but like Mustang68, a plasma might be the way to go for me also.

Sounds like nothing more than a hinky connection somewhere, affecting only the red.

There are ways we techs handle stuff like this, which have to be done while the set is live, so I cannot in good conscience recommend owners do this on their own, and as such am not doing so. I recommend you leave such servicing to qualified repair service personnel.

We tap on the board with a non-conductive tool of some kind, to see if any part of the board makes this red disappearance thing react.

We spray different parts of the board, and sometimes the individual parts themselves, with super freeze to see if abrupt temp changes cause expansion and contraction, thus making and breaking connections in there. If there's a bad connection it's usually on the soldering of the board, rather than inside any of the board-mounted components themselves.

We also use heat guns to do the same thing. In both cases it is sometimes essential that we "narrow the beam" of our temp-affecting techniques, to fine tune what gets heated or cooled. A simple straw can be a very effective tool for narrowing that focus.

Once we have isolated a section of the board which makes the problem react - in this case makes the red come and go upon provocation - we resolder that entire area, being very careful to not cause any inadvertent solder bridges. Which are shorts that connect things that are not supposed to be connected.


Any responsible repair tech you get on the case is going to be versed in such repair techniques, and with no parts to buy the repair could wind up being quite affordable, esp. compared to getting a new set.

And new sets, with today's new fixed pixel tech, are not lasting nearly as long as our CRT based sets are, where our CRT sets have a 20 year service life. Yours is only halfway thru that service life, Mustang.

It is not inconceivable that you'll plunk out several thousand for the new replacement set, then when something goes bad on it and it's too expensive to fix, you'll be plunking out another several thousand on THAT set's replacement.

They are not building them to last anymore, that went out with CRT tech. Buy new at your peril. You have been warned.


b

Hello everyone,

First of all I want to thank all of you for posting so much great information. I have been lurking on this forum for a few days now and reading as much as I can. I too have obtained a 51F710A and until the other day it "worked" for the most part. When I got it the person told me they had moved from FL to PA via moving truck and when they got to PA the tv had a very bad blue tint to it. I got it home and started reading here. The blue was so strong that there were no blacks in any image. I finally tore the tv down, cleaned it and started trying to get it close to normal so I could then start following the guides here on how to calibrate it. I went into the tv and it seemed that during moving the gain pot for the blue gut somehow vibrated to a high level. I knocked it back down and began working on getting the color close with the RGB gain pots. I have always been afraid of HV. Well, I was adjusting the red gain pot when my cat touched her cold nose to my back scaring the crap out of me and momentarily cranked the red gain up and the TV shut down. Let me tell you I was freaked out for a second. I turned the TV on and now there is no video at all. The next day I tore open the back and checked the three fuses that I saw all of which were good. I left the TV unplugged for 24 hours hoping that maybe it needed to "reset". None of this worked. Would any of you have an idea where I can start looking to fix the TV. Knowing that the TV shut down once the Red Gain was cranked for 1/4 of a second. There is a little burn in like someone had been watching 4x3 but I am sure I can get that knocked out if I can get the TV operational again...

Thanks so much for all your help..

Ernie
Pittsburgh PA.

:)

Have you taken the red gain down again?

Is it the red gain or the red Screen trimpot?

If the red trimpot is still way up there, that could be your problem. Usually when a screen trimpot is overmodulated, retrace lines show up and then it shuts off. But it usually doesn't blow anything, and when that trimpot is turned back down everything goes back to normal.

b

Yea, its the red screen trimpot. I saw the retrace lines and it shut down. I turned it back immediately and have no picture. It has been unplugged for a few days. I may try to power it up again.




Ernie

Do your graphics come up when you hit Menu on the remote?

Do you have high voltage and are your CRT filaments lit?

b

No Graphics when hitting menu and as far as I can see there is nothing from the CRTs. After I hit power the LED lights up and about 1.2 seconds later I can hear the HV drop in pitch and the speakers make a low pop.. Weird.


Ernie

I knocked it back down and began working on getting the color close with the RGB gain pots. I have always been afraid of HV. Well, I was adjusting the red gain pot when my cat touched her cold nose to my back scaring the crap out of me and momentarily cranked the red gain up and the TV shut down. Let me tell you I was freaked out for a second. I turned the TV on and now there is no video at all.

Sorry, I didn't mean to laugh, but that's what happened to me with my dog. Ended up replacing the blue gun. Hope your solution is easier.
Michael

Yeah, I felt kinda dumb posting that but I too thought it was funny...


Ernie :D

Does anyone have access to the original tweak document (posted on the first page of this thread). Megaupload doesn't have it anymore.


Wish I discovered this years ago... I was looking for other info on my 51f59a today (due to a slit in my screen... minor on the far right side... was looking for info on what to do or if I'm in danger of further damage thanks to it) and discovered other fixes. Mine has been doing the blinking to green screen then off for years - I've applied the service fix today and I'll be so happy if it never happens again.

I'm even debating calling Hitachi to see if they still offer help for the old screen shifting trick through HDMI - but it only happens occasionally on my side, so I'm not too concerned on that.

However, if I could get a link to the other document with all the other service manual tweaks, I'd love to further improve my picture. It doesn't look bad now... but if it could be even better it would be awesome.

I'm even almost tempted to follow Mr. Bob's instructions at taking it apart and cleaning the bulbs (for the first time in 5 years)... but I don't know if I'm that brave :)

I love this TV... it's been great... but if I can give it new life now, it would be awesome. If my kids only hadn't pushed on the screen and caused the 3 inch slit, I'd be a happy man... At least it's so far to the right it's not the end of the world. Although if I can find a place to sell the TV (on Craigslist... for a decent price... in the Nashville area... Anyone?) I may and finally upgrade to something thinner...

When your Hitachi is fully cleaned and finely tuned, moving to a flat panel is usually not an upgrade. On many levels it's a downgrade. No modality yet available to the consumer has better blacks - and thus depth - than CRT. And when finely tuned and calibrated, you can sit there and study the grain of the film they used to shoot the movie you're watching.

I recommend you save your set and keep it fully tricked out, like Superleo and LastButNotLeast have. It takes seriously overblown new set money to match that kind of performance, and nothing out there exceeds it. I am being flown all over the country keeping these incredible sets going, and performing masterfully. They are only halfway thru their 20 year service life, they have many happy years ahead of them.

All it takes is getting your optics fully clean and your light path totally sparkling, to be able to fully realize the gold mine you're sitting on as we speak. If you have your doubts as to whether you'll keep your optics safe, contact me and sign up for my private optics cleaning coaching session. Nobody has ever damaged their optics while on the phone with me at their side, sticking strictly to my guidance.

b

I know I'm repeating myself just a bit with this post, but this was just posted on another thread, thought I'd share it with you here -


Holy Cow Dave Harper!!! You said ISF is in Florida, so I decided to see where they're located. They're about 5-10 minutes from my house!! Didn't even know it, too darned funny.

I have an elderly Pioneer SD-532HD5 like this one.

http://www4.shopping.com/xFS?KW=pioneer+sd-532hd5&FN=TV+and+Video&FD=85747

I might just need to have this thing calibrated some day. It works OK and has been moved across the country twice, in storage for a couple years, never been touched except when I used the Avia disk set it up initially and when I moved here in Boca Raton 3 years ago.

Just noticed this post in another thread, from way back in '05.

Just so you know, those "elderly" CRT RPTVs are not old, they have a 20 year service life - or more, I've seen it, recently heard about a 29 year old Panny CRT 50" that's still cranking away just fine - and at today's stage are only halfway thru it. I know of an "old" curved screen bounce-off-the-screen Sears CRT whose guns fire at the hinged mirror that you pull out and let fall into place to start it up, that's still cranking away just fine too. We've been looking for someone to take it home and keep it going, or hopefully get it to some sort of video museum, tho I have never actually heard of one...

Well treated by their owners re. usage, light levels and avoidance of screenburn, they are capable of WAY better than new performance, even at 11 years old.

I am being flown all over the country cleaning and calibrating these "elderly" beasts, which are capable of incredible HD, head and shoulders better than a lot of the "affordable" fixed pixel offerings out there in today's marketplace. And better looking in some ways than all fixed pixel offerings.

The main thing that not everybody knows about them is that their optics need to be cleaned yearly, and on some brands - like the Pioneers, be they Elite or non-Elite - the "deeper optics" need it every few years as well. That's because of the air gap between the lens barrels and the CRT coolant covers, where 6 additional surfaces get invaded by dust, soot, smoke and all manner of other airborn contaminants, and thus compromised because of the high voltage turning them into powerful, continuous dust magnets every moment they are powered on. There's 28 optical surfaces in there that need to stay crystal clear, 10 of which get heavily compromised because of the HV. When all 28 surfaces are clean and polished and you have a crystal clear light path again, the results are truly astonishing. Like getting a brand new TV for a simple hour's work.

Just doing this one thing gives your "elderly" set a brand new looking picture - in my area my calibrations are called "The Sparkle Process" - and calibration after that is just incredible icing on the cake.

I started the "Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV!" thread here on AVS more than 5 years ago, and it is still going strong, with over 300 complete pages so far and over 9000 posts. If you have a CRT RPTV at all, HD or non-HD, I invite you to go over there and check it out.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922&page=327

If you have a CRT RPTV or know someone who does and want info about how to do your optics cleaning with no damage - those soft plastic surfaces in there are incredibly delicate, vulnerable and easily scratched, and any damage to them is permanent - contact me directly, by email or phone. No pm's please!

Thx -

Mr Bob

It had been a couple of years since blacking out the interior and cleaning the lenses and such. And probably as long since a service menu focus adjustment. As I was going in with the remote only something happened and the Red went heavy and at 30 ire the green and blue was 0 and the red was 150%. 80 ire was not as bad but still terrable. Couldnt stand to watch it like this and was eyeing one of the 70" lcs's. Any ideas for fat fingering the remote or what else happened??
Anyway reset defaults and set the gray scale and all is well. On top of that super tight focus. It is looking better than ever at the moment but I hope the focus holds. I should have done this a year ago. Any more tricks to get the focus to hold longer?

Thanks,

Doyle

You don't do focus in the service menu. You do do convergence. Those ICS sometimes get weak before they wear out and die, causing drift and untrustability. Once they are in that stage they are best replaced, which requires a fine tuning afterwards and again at 100 hours, after the "drift period".

DK what happened to your red, if it was caused by your remote and fat fingers. Had you already written down your optimum grayscale values, so you could go back to them, or did you realign it from scratch?

If you have great grayscale and this ever happens to you when you've been playing with the focus block, I recommend not changing any service menu values until going back to the offending color and trying your best to recapture your grayscale using the Screen controls, hopefully ONLY the one you altered badly.

b

As Bob mentions, it is very important to keep the optics clean. Also, I did the schemuglage op on my set that in turn left some more work to do. I'm still working on having the best picture possible.

So next time you come by Texas Bob you know what we will be working on.


Clean Optics.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9926.jpg

Tape Stripping.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9927.jpg

Results

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9931.jpg

Awesome results Leo! Can't wait to get back to your area again!

b

You don't do focus in the service menu. You do do convergence. Those ICS sometimes get weak before they wear out and die, causing drift and untrustability. Once they are in that stage they are best replaced, which requires a fine tuning afterwards and again at 100 hours, after the "drift period".

DK what happened to your red, if it was caused by your remote and fat fingers. Had you already written down your optimum grayscale values, so you could go back to them, or did you realign it from scratch?

If you have great grayscale and this ever happens to you when you've been playing with the focus block, I recommend not changing any service menu values until going back to the offending color and trying your best to recapture your grayscale using the Screen controls, hopefully ONLY the one you altered badly.

b


Sorry, ment to say convergence. I noticed it had drifted over time. I did not have the TV open so it was not a trim pot and the last recorded grayscale setting were still there and did not look anything like just hours before. For now it is just a detective story but If I have anything set that could be killing the set?? The set is stunning once again.

I have a 57F59A that needs a new home. I thought there might be an enthusiast of CRT RPTV’s who would really like to have it. Hence, this posting before I place it on my local Craig’s List soon. I not going to ship it or anything so you’d have to pick it up from me in Reno, Nevada. I know this is a long shot, but thought someone here might be interested. I love the TV but my wife hates it! So, off it goes! It'll be very cheap to any AVS member that wants it!

It was bought new from Circuit City in October of 2006. The HDMI input no longer works, other than that all inputs work and it is in Very Good to Excellent condition.

Sorry, ment to say convergence. I noticed it had drifted over time. I did not have the TV open so it was not a trim pot and the last recorded grayscale setting were still there and did not look anything like just hours before. For now it is just a detective story but If I have anything set that could be killing the set?? The set is stunning once again.

If your set is stunning again, nothing would be killing it, so relax. If something is killing a set, chances are it will be visually evident. Even points that are set to be working against each other show up in the picture, when you can't correct anything in between the points. Setting them to NOT be working against each other cures that.


b

Ok I have convinced the wife to stick with the tv and I will spend the $500 on her instead of a newer, less room hogging set. I bought the BR Lord of the Rings trilogy as a Christmas present. I cant wait to watch them on my set. So with that said I will be considering the fixing of that off and on pesky red coming in and out.

As Bob mentions, it is very important to keep the optics clean. Also, I did the schemuglage op on my set that in turn left some more work to do. I'm still working on having the best picture possible.

So next time you come by Texas Bob you know what we will be working on.


Clean Optics.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9926.jpg

Tape Stripping.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9927.jpg

Results

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9931.jpg

Hey I did that Shempterpflug thing too. However I put washers under one end and kinda manually aligned it that way. whats up with the tape on the red. Is that another way of doing it cause mine is better but not perfect.

Hey I did that Shempterpflug thing too. However I put washers under one end and kinda manually aligned it that way. whats up with the tape on the red. Is that another way of doing it cause mine is better but not perfect.

By changing the angle in which the light hits the screen (putting the washers under the guns) we improve the capability of the light to be better focus... however, it is not uniform through out the screen. In my case I have razor sharp focus in two thirds of the screen for red and blue, and of course green is perfect all around since it is in the middle. You have to adjust the focus so the opposite side is not very noticeable, or tolerable to you.

The tape is used to give that color more uniformity through out the screen. In my case I also moved the red trimpot... and NO, this is not recommended, I had to dialed it down just a tad because after the schemuflag op red was blooming more than I would tolerate... I did not have this problem with blue, although I've been wanting to boost blue just a tad, and this is only based on calibration readings.

Here are the numbers after the schemuflag op.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/scheCalDataColor.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/scheCalDataGrayscale.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/schGammaGraph.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/schRGBGraph.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/schcalCIEGraph.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9935.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9943.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/CastilloLeo/schemuflage%20cal/IMG_9924.jpg

I already have a 51F59A that works reasonably well but one showed up locally on Craigslist. "It makes a popping noise and won't come on." Is that an easy fix or not? It's pretty cheap as it is for parts mostly for the screen (it still bothers me to have the gray bezel from a 51F710A when my kid broke my original screen) and the front panel which is messed up from my kid.

I already have a 51F59A that works reasonably well but one showed up locally on Craigslist. "It makes a popping noise and won't come on." Is that an easy fix or not? It's pretty cheap as it is for parts mostly for the screen (it still bothers me to have the gray bezel from a 51F710A when my kid broke my original screen) and the front panel which is messed up from my kid.

Not being a repair person or a technician, just from what I remember form other threads... the poping is usually due to cold solders going week or bad on the main board. Check with Mr. Bob, he might be able to help.

I scored the broken 51F59A for $25. Swapping the screens and front panel now... Looks like they left 2 lens covers in this one (not on the lens of course). Weird.

I think I'm gonna fire an email to Summit HDTV. He's much much closer to me than Mr Bob (no offense).

I scored the broken 51F59A for $25. Swapping the screens and front panel now... Looks like they left 2 lens covers in this one (not on the lens of course). Weird.

I think I'm gonna fire an email to Summit HDTV. He's much much closer to me than Mr Bob (no offense).

Please share some pics when you're done... Summit is cool; If I remember he has a Lumagen within his video chain, taking his overscan under 2%.

Well, the dreaded time has finally come. I have to part with my beloved Hitachi 65F59 HDTV. And just when I had cleaned and tweaked it to a superb picture, using the best advice in the world on this forum. I have officially retired. The wife (of 42 wonderful years) and I are downsizing our residence and moving into a much smaller house in Stow Massachusetts. We will be moving in January and February to be 1.5 miles from my youngest Son, his wife and their expectant new son (in February). Anyway, the big Hitachi box will not fit well in the 12 x 12 living room of the new home. Oh how the mighty have fallen! So I will be trying to sell it before moving. I bought it new in 2007. It is in like new condition. And everything works fine. It just doesn’t pass the WAF anymore. If anyone on this forum is interested in it. Let me know. And we can arrange something offline. It must be picked up in Massachusetts, or arrangements must be made to ship it by the buyer. I will not move it or ship it. I hope it finds a great new home. I will be moving my smaller Sony 34” XBR KD 970 HD CRT into the new living room. It’s funny, because that sucker is fatter than the Hitachi. But the wife loves the big 8’ entertainment furniture piece it resides in for her decorations. Go figure. I won’t miss anything on PQ between the Hitachi and Sony. But I will dearly miss the size.

Well, the dreaded time has finally come. I have to part with my beloved Hitachi 65F59 HDTV. And just when I had cleaned and tweaked it to a superb picture, using the best advice in the world on this forum. I have officially retired. The wife (of 42 wonderful years) and I are downsizing our residence and moving into a much smaller house in Stow Massachusetts. We will be moving in January and February to be 1.5 miles from my youngest Son, his wife and their expectant new son (in February). Anyway, the big Hitachi box will not fit well in the 12 x 12 living room of the new home. Oh how the mighty have fallen! So I will be trying to sell it before moving. I bought it new in 2007. It is in like new condition. And everything works fine. It just doesn’t pass the WAF anymore. If anyone on this forum is interested in it. Let me know. And we can arrange something offline. It must be picked up in Massachusetts, or arrangements must be made to ship it by the buyer. I will not move it or ship it. I hope it finds a great new home. I will be moving my smaller Sony 34” XBR KD 970 HD CRT into the new living room. It’s funny, because that sucker is fatter than the Hitachi. But the wife loves the big 8’ entertainment furniture piece it resides in for her decorations. Go figure. I won’t miss anything on PQ between the Hitachi and Sony. But I will dearly miss the size.

Bummer:( on TV. Yipee on retirement :)

I'm getting close to making the same jump. The 51F59 has begun the drifting convergence thing again, and now the geometry is starting to distort. I can get the convergence dialed-in and it looks like a million bucks that night after the adjustments, but after being powered off overnight then the next evening the pq is not as sharp, and investigating by a quick look at the 117pt user convergence grid will generally show either red or blue has shifted as an entire color, uniformly (e.g. every single verticle grid line on the 117 pt screen will show red shifted about 1/16" to the left). Its easy to correct by going into DCAM via the remote keypad sequence (Hold TV then ASPECT+9+STOP) and then raster mode to move entirely whichever color is shifted, ROM write and exit. But lately she's also become finicky about going into DCAM mode with the remote keypad sequence. I have to remove the batteries from the remote for about ten seconds and then reinstall them before the keypad sequence will put it into DCAM adjustment mode. Do all that and the next day red might be entirely shifted to the right. Or maybe blue will be shifted. Its getting old dealing with it.

Well the decision has been made. The color issues have returned with the red phasing in an out. I am looking for a replacement technology. So far Plasma is leading the pack due to the blacks being closer to the blacks of CRT. I hate to do it but the size of the set in a small room has been fine with me until which time it gave out. Then I always knew I would look for a projector or a flat panel. Hate to do it because the set is so beautiful.

Haven't completely made up my mind yet because I love this set so much. I'm just not going to spend the money to fix it when I can spend the exact amount of money to buy a 1080p Plasma FP or even a small projector. My wife has been patient with the amount of room this set takes up but now with the color fading in and out its time to start looking.