After 3 years with my Hitachi 57S700 Ultravision, it was starting to look pretty lame next to these new DLPs and flat panels in the store. I wasn't seeing the pop anymore from my HD channels or my new Blu-Ray. I do my own basic calibrating including grayscale so I knew that my TV was still dialed in. I guess it was just wearing out. Time to spring for a new $4K TV.

Then I remembered. I had never cleaned the lenses from the day I owned it. I looked on the back of my TV and Hitachi had stapled instructions for taking it apart. When I popped the screen off, the lenses were coated with an obvious layer of dust and oak pollen (I live in the woods). Yup, it was definitely not my imagination...the TV had "worn" out.

Needless to say, after getting the lenses sparkling clean and streak-free (using SLR camera lens cleaning techniques), the picture was *better* than new. It has never looked so bright, sharp, vivid, and contrasty. Even my wife went "Wow!". I love my CRT all over again. What a bargain for a new TV!!

Take the time to clean your optics every 6 months and your CRT will keep giving and giving.

:)

Do you have any advice, pictures and/or can you tell me how to use the SLR camera lens cleaning technique? Would this be similar to cleaning an LCD Rear Projection 42V715? I think the yellowing on my screen is caused by dust on the lenses...any suggestions?

I a little bit scared as it is my first time cleaning my TV.

and some DLPs need cleaning too.....the dirty filthy internal mirror before
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/371/mitsdlpdirtymirror7pc3.jpg
and the nice clean mirror after......
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/7251/mitsdlpcleanmirror2sh7.jpg

Thanks for the tip.......I have a 3 yr old 57S500. Damn u as now I have yet another minor project for this long weekend ;)

I haven't opened mine ever since I got it 3 years ago so I can only imagine whats it like inside:eek:

Frag

Thanks for the tip.......I have a 3 yr old 57S500. Damn u as now I have yet another minor project for this long weekend ;)

I haven't opened mine ever since I got it 3 years ago so I can only imagine whats it like inside:eek:

Frag


Dirty, that's what!;)

Non-ammonia cleaners are the way to go. Any camera lens cleaner would work. I know ISF cal guru Mr Bob recommends Sprayway foam cleaner. Comes out of the can in foam form, so you can srpay directly onto CRT lenses w/o the worry of liquid dripping into the TV or seeping into the lens barrels. Not the easiest stuff to locate, but I know my local Costco sells it in 4 can packs.

Also a great cleaner for stainless steel appliances, BTW.

Thanks for the pictures. You're not alone Fragster, I'll be cleaning this weekend too.

Will I need to take the lens assemblies off and clean the concave colored lenses underneath?

I tried cleaning just the lenses on the top of the lens assembly with some lens cleaner, and it only made a teensy difference. Should I have gone deeper? I got the tv earlier this year, used, about three years old. I have no idea if it had ever been cleaned.

I actually got some fluid into the lens assemblies by accident, and got some major lens flare on the red tube after it had time to condensate. Scared the bejeebers out of me. But it evaporated in about twenty minutes.

IF dust and whatnot has gotten down there, then yes....removing the lens barrels to get to the "coolant cup" lens is necessary. Be careful. Removing the wrong screws could lead to coolant leaking all over the place.

And if you remove the lens barrels, do then ONE AT A TIME. Remove one, clean underneath, replace. Go to the next and repeat. Don;t want to get your lenses switched around.

There's a dead spider showing on my screen, and I tried tapping the screen to get it off, but it must be on the mirror, so I'm going to take the screen off and vacuum out him and his friends.

Since the set is almost a year old, I'm going to clean the mirror and lenses while I've got the "hood opened" so I got a can of Sprayway glass cleaner (Ace Hardware carries it).

My question is what type of cloth is best to use? I have some very soft 100% cotton cloths (similar to baby diapers), a bunch of old 100% cotton t-shirts, and microfiber cloths. What's best for the lenses?

How do you take the screen off of a 46" 2000 Mitsubishi CRT?

Take the time to clean your optics every 6 months and your CRT will keep giving and giving.

Hi, I have a 4-year old Panasonic 56" Rear Projection CRT that I know needs cleaning. Do I pop off the back of the set or the front? Where are the lens that need dusting? Is there a simple way for you to explain the process of removing whatever cover needs to be removed? Or, can you please point me to a site or guide that would help me? Thanks very much,

Analyst 7

Jay,

How do I access the lens for cleaning on my Panasonic 56" CRT rear projection? Do I pop off the back to access them, or the front? I know my lenses need cleaning and it is probably not too difficult, but I'm not sure how to get to them.

Thanks much,

Analyst 7

This is the stuff to use I would say:

http://www0.epinions.com/pr-Housewares-Sprayway_Glass_Cleaner/display_~reviews

Went to SAMS CLUB and bought some SRAYWAY and man this stuff is EXCELLENT!!! I used Blue shop towel paper towels since they are lint free and extremely soft and absorbant. I sprayed the SPRAYWAY directly on the lint free paper towel.

When i removed the screen I was expecting dust on the mirror to be at least as thick as the picture above indicated...however I was shocked to see that the mirror was absolutely pristine (as shown in my pictures) so I made the decision not to mess with something that did not need to be touched.

The CRT lenses on the otherhand were a different story. While MUCH cleaner than I had imagined they would be, they were still filthy. My set is 3.5 years old and it has been 3.5 years since I last removed the screen to remove the 'glare' screen and to paint the silver trim a flat black, both inside and out, to minimize light defraction/reflection.

Check out the pictures that follow for the before and after results of cleaning the lenses. As a side benefit of using SPRAYWAY, the lenticular lens can also be cleaned thanks to SPRAYWAY being non harmful to plastics. So I also got to clean my screen which has only previously been lightly wiped down with a slightly damp wash cloth by my wife. While there was not a ton of filth there was a substantial amount of dirt that was removed with no harm to the lens.

SPRAYWAY is available at a number of stores such as Home Depot, SAMS Club and Costco and also on the internet.

The first pic shows the 1st lens on the left after cleaning and the remaining two just how dirty they were.

2nd pic shows the left and middle lenses cleaned and the 3rd pic shows all lenses cleaned. Note all these pictures are reflections thru the mirror which did not need to be cleaned and was not touched.

After cleaning the results produced were immediately and noticeably improved by myself and even my wife and kids.:D

Went to SAMS CLUB and bought some SRAYWAY and man this stuff is EXCELLENT!!! I used Blue shop towel paper towels since they are lint free and extremely soft and absorbant. I sprayed the SPRAYWAY directly on the lint free paper towel.

SPRAYWAY is available at a number of stores such as Home Depot, SAMS Club and Costco and also on the internet.


I cleaned my lenses yesterday with Sprayway (bought at Ace Hardware), since I had to open the set up to clean out a spider that had stuck to the inside of the screen (also cleaned a bunch of spider webs). I did a test of the Sprayway on a bathroom mirror and decided that spraying directly on the lenses would create a mess, so I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel.

My set is a year old, and while not as dusty as yours, the lenses definitely were dusty. Like you, my mirror was clean, which in hindsight isn't surprising since the angle the mirror is on means dust wouldn't fall on it (unlike the tops of the lenses).

After reassembling and doing a magic focus (Hitachi's term for an auto convergence) after allowing the set to come up to temperature, watching the US Open, the announcers' faces almost jumped off the screen. I'll be doing this once a year for sure.

I cleaned my lenses yesterday with Sprayway (bought at Ace Hardware), since I had to open the set up to clean out a spider that had stuck to the inside of the screen (also cleaned a bunch of spider webs). I did a test of the Sprayway on a bathroom mirror and decided that spraying directly on the lenses would create a mess, so I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel.

My set is a year old, and while not as dusty as yours, the lenses definitely were dusty. Like you, my mirror was clean, which in hindsight isn't surprising since the angle the mirror is on means dust wouldn't fall on it (unlike the tops of the lenses).

After reassembling and doing a magic focus (Hitachi's term for an auto convergence) after allowing the set to come up to temperature, watching the US Open, the announcers' faces almost jumped off the screen. I'll be doing this once a year for sure.
Magic Focus :(

Even someone with no experience can do a better convergence job by hand.

Magic Focus :(

Even someone with no experience can do a better convergence job by hand.

I realize there's the 9 point & 117 point manual convergence options (and even more service menu adjustments), but I've been very happy with the PQ, and didn't see (no pun intended...) the need to go through the effort. Every few months I press the magic focus button on the front of the TV.

Perhaps I'll try the manual convergence process--how long does it usually take, and how often do you do it?

I realize there's the 9 point & 117 point manual convergence options (and even more service menu adjustments), but I've been very happy with the PQ, and didn't see (no pun intended...) the need to go through the effort. Every few months I press the magic focus button on the front of the TV.

Perhaps I'll try the manual convergence process--how long does it usually take, and how often do you do it?

After the break in period I reset the user grid and did adjustments in the service menu, never had to change it since(the grid is WAY too bright more minor adjustments anyway, anyone know how to dim this damn thing? I have a 51F59)

Mostly it will help remedy any red/blue/green bleeding on edges of objects and depending on your situation may sharpen the picture.

After the break in period I reset the user grid and did adjustments in the service menu, never had to change it since(the grid is WAY too bright more minor adjustments anyway, anyone know how to dim this damn thing? I have a 51F59)

Mostly it will help remedy any red/blue/green bleeding on edges of objects and depending on your situation may sharpen the picture.


Similar situation for me. I did reduce the factory overscan down to just under 4% (per AVIA) - so I had a considerable amount of DCAM tweaking afterwards to get both conv and geometry back in line. Well worth it, though. Since then, I have only done touchups when either the set was moved around (when polishing the wood floors in the house and bothering to clean under the TV ;)) and after evicting spiders/cleaning the optics.

Ballz - the answer you seek regarding DCAM lines getting "dimmed" is over on the "original" F59 thread. Mr Bob came across the sm parameters during a recent Hitachi cal job that control DCAM grid brightness/contrast. Worked so well, he changed his tune about using their internal grids as the main reference (as did I).

And for the record, Lee Bailey posted the how to on these DCAM grid tweaks months ago, but they obviously got lost in the shuffle. So, kudos to Lee!

Makes using the Magic Focus 117pt manual mode in the user menu for touchups actually worthwhile and usable. And certainly a better fix than the auto MF.

I have a crappy 2 megpixel camera but here is a shot of local news in HD on my CRT RPTV after the lens cleaning (sorry, no before shots available):

What kind of cloth should I use for the lenses and mirror? I'm going to try and find some sprayway.

Funny thing is I have been asking what type of cloth for over a year since I got my tv, never got a reply yet.

What kind of cloth should I use for the lenses and mirror? I'm going to try and find some sprayway.

Funny thing is I have been asking what type of cloth for over a year since I got my tv, never got a reply yet.

Mr Bob just recommends/uses plain paper towels. All I have ever used, as well.

An ACE Hardware will have Sprayway, as well as many Costcos.

SAMS CLUB also sells Sprayway...Good stuff...I used the blue automotive paper towels as they are lint free. But thats just me.

What kind of cloth should I use for the lenses and mirror? I'm going to try and find some sprayway.

Funny thing is I have been asking what type of cloth for over a year since I got my tv, never got a reply yet.

I got Sprayway at ACE.

I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel.

I got Sprayway at ACE.

I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel.

Where should I buy a microfiber towel, any special thing to look for?

What about the mirror? My mirror was coated in dust, fingerprints, and hair since the day I got it.

Hardware store, Costco, PepBoys, Target, etc.

Where should I buy a microfiber towel, any special thing to look for?

What about the mirror? My mirror was coated in dust, fingerprints, and hair since the day I got it.

Auto parts stores have them (in the wax section). When wiping the lenses, avoid touching the lense with the edge of the cloth (the edges are not as soft).

My mirror was clean, so I didn't touch it, but I would clean it if it's dirty. First thing I did was vacuum the entire cavity. Even after only a year, there was plenty of dust & cobwebs, and a few dead spiders.

Ok I got 90,000 fiber per square inch towels(from car section of sams) and sprayway.

So I'm going to try and blow excess dust off of the mirror and lenses, clean the mirror first(dust will fall on lenses) with a sprayway soaked microfiber towel, then try to soak lenses with the sprayway and suck up the excess dust with the paper towel, wipe with the microfiber?

Ok I got 90,000 fiber per square inch towels(from car section of sams) and sprayway.

So I'm going to try and blow excess dust off of the mirror and lenses, clean the mirror first(dust will fall on lenses) with a sprayway soaked microfiber towel, then try to soak lenses with the sprayway and suck up the excess dust with the paper towel, wipe with the microfiber?

I'd suggest doing a test spray of the Sprayway (your bathroom mirror will thank you...), so you can see how fast it comes out, and then foams up and expands quite a bit.

I'd also vacuum the TV cavity first.

For the mirror, I'd spray it on directly (perhaps cover the lenses with paper towel to protect from dripping), and wipe with microfiber towel, turning frequently so you don't drag a dirty section too far.

For the lenses, as I said, I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel, turning towel to clean section for each stroke (wipe one way only, not back and forth).

BTW--the Sprayway is great on car windows. Good thing, since a can would probably last several dozen lense/mirror cleanings.

I'd suggest doing a test spray of the Sprayway (your bathroom mirror will thank you...), so you can see how fast it comes out, and then foams up and expands quite a bit.

I'd also vacuum the TV cavity first.

For the mirror, I'd spray it on directly (perhaps cover the lenses with paper towel to protect from dripping), and wipe with microfiber towel, turning frequently so you don't drag a dirty section too far.

For the lenses, as I said, I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel, turning towel to clean section for each stroke (wipe one way only, not back and forth).

BTW--the Sprayway is great on car windows. Good thing, since a can would probably last several dozen lense/mirror cleanings.
Bathroom mirror it did great(became invisible), however on my windows it a streaking mess....I dunno man.

Bathroom mirror it did great(became invisible), however on my windows it a streaking mess....I dunno man.

Your kidding right? I have elemenated any liquid glass cleaner in this house and my wife solely uses SRAYWAY exclusively and I have never seen an issue of streaking. A little goes a loooooong way with this stuff. I think you are applying it too heavily if you are actually getting streaks.

Your kidding right? I have elemenated any liquid glass cleaner in this house and my wife solely uses SRAYWAY exclusively and I have never seen an issue of streaking. A little goes a loooooong way with this stuff. I think you are applying it too heavily if you are actually getting streaks.

Sounds about right, the person who cleaned the window was dumping foam out all over it :p

I pulled my TV apart and the blue polarizer plate is toast. :eek:

Where can I buy a new one? Any place on line? Is it possible to run without a polarizer until I get a replacement?

I pulled my TV apart and the blue polarizer plate is toast. :eek:

Where can I buy a new one? Any place on line? Is it possible to run without a polarizer until I get a replacement?

wtf is that :eek: and how did that happen?

Sounds about right, the person who cleaned the window was dumping foam out all over it :p

Yep--this stuff comes out fast, and a little goes a long way. I've used it on my windshield several times and no streaks.

Yep--this stuff comes out fast, and a little goes a long way. I've used it on my windshield several times and no streaks.

It left some tiny spots on my lenses that I didn't want to press hard enough to get, but the mirror came out perfect.

Massive difference in my picture clarity, not so much improved black levels in bright/dark scenes, but it is slightly better than before.

Good question. Looks like it burned up. This is I assumed a polarizer plate?? It is a layered piece of glass with a very dark purplish (looks orange in the picture but it is not) color. It sits right in front of the blue LED.

SAMS CLUB also sells Sprayway...Good stuff...I used the blue automotive paper towels as they are lint free. But thats just me.


Shop towels are impregnated with Lanolin. The one time I used them I NEVER got the mirror clean! I had to switch to something else.

I couldn't get any Sprayway, so I used Glass Plus, which is just as good, but a liquid, so watch for the dripping down into your lower inner lenses, it will fog them up.

It is without Ammonia (D), and as such can be used on front surface mirrors.


Mr Bob

After reassembling and doing a magic focus (Hitachi's term for an auto convergence) after allowing the set to come up to temperature, watching the US Open, the announcers' faces almost jumped off the screen. I'll be doing this once a year for sure.


Always do your MF AFTER the warm-up period following turn-on, which in my case is never less than 45 minutes.

If you do it upon turn-on, do it again after warm-up.


Mr Bob

My mirror was clean, so I didn't touch it, but I would clean it if it's dirty. First thing I did was vacuum the entire cavity. Even after only a year, there was plenty of dust & cobwebs, and a few dead spiders.


To see how dirty your lenses are or your mirror is, shine a flashlight FROM THE SIDE while viewing at a steep angle to the lenses, from the front, or from dead on to the mirror. But a steep angle of light hitting the mirror is a must for seeing how smoky it has become. Hit it in a tiny spot with a clean back of a finger knuckle, to disturb that smokiness and see the black beneath.

Or for the lenses, view superbright video material FROM THE FRONT, at a steep angle.

You won't see anything disturbing on the mirror unless you send BRIGHT light at it from the side. Use a superbright white multi-LED flashlight, if you have one.


Mr Bob

For the lenses, as I said, I sprayed it directly on a paper towel in a circle the size of the lens, then placed it on the lens and allowed it to soak into the dust. Then wiped off with a microfiber towel, turning towel to clean section for each stroke (wipe one way only, not back and forth).



I always spray directly onto the lens, then give it a few seconds before proceeding. You have to let the gritty particulates get suspended in liquid before moving them. Scratches on plastic are permanent.

Scuffs on plastic lenses - from rubbing back and forth rather than just one stroke in one direction at a time, which yes is the right way to do it - are thousands of microscopic scratches per square inch. And are also permanent. They come from rubbing and rubbing and rubbing... Which is fine to do on the mirror on the second or third pass, but NOT on the lenses!

As you are doing your one stroke at a time, be sure to ease your paper towel up ahead of itself slightly, like a streetsweeper brush would, to LIFT those gritty particulates up OFF the lens, rather than down into it.


Mr Bob

Your kidding right? I have elemenated any liquid glass cleaner in this house and my wife solely uses SRAYWAY exclusively and I have never seen an issue of streaking. A little goes a loooooong way with this stuff. I think you are applying it too heavily if you are actually getting streaks.

For transparent windows, single sheets of crumpled up newspaper are best. I don't use that in big screens because the lint from it flies everywhere, but that newsprint does wonders on transparent glass.


Mr Bob

It left some tiny spots on my lenses that I didn't want to press hard enough to get, but the mirror came out perfect.

Massive difference in my picture clarity, not so much improved black levels in bright/dark scenes, but it is slightly better than before.


BREATHE on each lens, and do a last wipe with the paper towel before the fog that happens in response to your breath has a chance to disappear.

This is a great way to get rid of any residue your cleaning agent might leave, also.

Sometimes it's best to leave that residue there, tho, if there are little scratches there already. It won't make your lenses get dirty any quicker, the 30KV takes care of that already! (see my website for why)


Your deeper optics may need it too. The deeper optics cleaning takes care of 6 additional lenses - the CRT coolant covers themselves, and the rears of the lens packs.

That's half the battle, when everything's really dirty in there.


Mr Bob

Good question. Looks like it burned up. This is I assumed a polarizer plate?? It is a layered piece of glass with a very dark purplish (looks orange in the picture but it is not) color. It sits right in front of the blue LED.

This is NOT a CRT item. It is only present in bulb-driven devices. Just didn't want any confusion there...


:p

Mr Bob

Shop towels are impregnated with Lanolin.


Mr Bob

I think we are talking about 2 different kinds of shop towels...The blue paper towel like shop towels I use...that you can pick up in any automotive store or department...does not contain any lanolin...:)

I think we are talking about 2 different kinds of shop towels...The blue paper towel like shop towels I use...that you can pick up in any automotive store or department...does not contain any lanolin...:)

Cool. I thought all blue "shop" towels would be the impregnated kind, but am glad to hear not all are.

Try using those that ARE impregnated with lanolin, tho, and you'll be on the project all afternoon and into the night! And STILL not get it clean!

:eek:


Mr Bob

This is NOT a CRT item. It is only present in bulb-driven devices. Just didn't want any confusion there...


:p

Mr Bob


You are absolutely correct. The mirror is still there for the cleaning though if anyone wants to follow the advice you posted (I'd advise them to) but I should find another thread to post my issue with the polarizer.

CSI, from awhile ago on my DVR -


Doesn't LOOK dead, does it?

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/2265/22308csiontosh003vm7.jpg[/URL]

Dean Cain, guest appearance

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6123/22308csiontosh009ep3.jpg[/URL]

Knight Rider

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/9717/21808knightriderontosh0fc4.jpg[/URL]

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/6820/21808knightriderontosh0vk5.jpg[/URL]

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8831/21808knightriderontosh0ho9.jpg[/URL]

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/896/21808knightriderontosh0bi4.jpg[/URL]

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/5149/21808knightriderontosh0zx3.jpg[/URL]

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/2344/21808knightriderontosh0rx9.jpg[/URL]


Lena Headley - Sarah Conner Chronicles

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/2540/21808knightriderontosh0es0.jpg[/URL]

Night sky - try THAT with bulb driven fixed pixel! Or dirty optics...

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7627/21808knightriderontosh0vg1.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/1073/21808knightriderontosh0fh4.jpg

Scooby Doo commercial - notice the head's moving on farthest right side guy, 2 images of his left hand, from 2 different frames -

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6059/21808knightriderontosh0dm5.jpg

Corrupt sheriff - blurry from slo-mo, to keep the pause bar outa there -

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9561/21808knightriderontosh0op2.jpg

Just finished adding another shim to my CRT array, a la (thanks!) Owen, for a total of 2.25" - 3 shims of 3/4" each, 4 of them - to my 73" Mit. I added a spot of white glue between the shims and under them, for stability. This makes half again the amount of shimmage I had before today, with just 2 shim thicknesses each x4, for 1.5" of shimmage for the last few months -

Took this opportunity to reclean the lens tops, it had been a year or so since last time, made a noticeable difference. Mit's HDreadys don't need the deeper optics cleaning, they don't allow an air gap between the lenses and the coolant covers, like the Elites do.

I think my shots are being compromised by being in jpeg, which I have heard reduces the res automatically. I checked my cam and can't find any way to redo any of that inside the cam, so it must by the automatic Windows uploading from my cam. Any input welcome on that. Kodak Z712 IS.

After redoing the focus, geometry and convergence - grayscale and colorations stayed the same as before, basically all by eye on the colorations - here's the results -



http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/6892/112808victoriassecretshnq5.jpg[/URL]

Slightly overexposed, but appropriate to the brilliance of the runway
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1599/112808victoriassecretshmf5.jpg[/URL]

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7840/112808victoriassecretshmk8.jpg[/URL]

Hard to get the crowd shadow details and still have the diamond sparkle without it white crushing out
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/8902/112808victoriassecretshyj4.jpg[/URL]

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/9672/112808victoriassecretshhs0.jpg[/URL]

Slight movement blur on this one, mostly on her outfit. But check out those abs!
http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/2586/112808victoriassecretshns4.jpg[/URL]

Blur on this one only on her right shoe and at the top of her rack (no not that one, the one she's WEARING...!)
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7339/112808victoriassecretshyi5.jpg[/URL]

my mirror is a front surface mirror and its almost impossible not to scratch it so be careful with the mirror.

my mirror is a front surface mirror and its almost impossible not to scratch it so be careful with the mirror.

Yeah, I hearya. Mylar is even more fragile and easily scratched...


B