View Full Version : How do you install GOM on a wall


Daniel Hutnicki
01-25-07, 01:15 PM
I know at sell the equipment, but the constructtion is not my bag

I have a blank wall that I will use for the screen wall. I am going to put Linacoustic all over the wall. I use drywall screws for this correct?

Now the real question, how do i put the GOM over the wall. I keep reading about furring strips but I have no idea what that is.

So i assume i am an idiot, can you run the procedure on how to put the GOM on the wall. Additionally i would assume that the fabric wouldnt cover the wall in one piece, what do you do for that.

I have read many and I mean many of the posts and seen the pictures, but I dont get it.
Help

If you really want to be nice, call me and walk me through it

BIGmouthinDC
01-25-07, 03:37 PM
Will work for RS1/HD1.

Send ticket and I'll train and help you do your room. Have sleeping bag and I'll eat just about anything.

BIGmouthinDC
01-25-07, 03:47 PM
I'll start with a few basics. There is the on wall and off wall method

first Imagine a free standing wood picture frame and you want to cover it with canvas. You lay the canvas on a flat surface, place the frame on top, pull the canvas up over the the top edge and staple while maintaing even tension across the surface of the canvas.

Now doing an on wall is just a little different. You fasten 1 inch thick furring strips to the wall creating big squares (frame) you lay Linacoustic or batting on the wall just fitting inside the frames. Then you hold up the fabric and staple to the frame creating an even tension across the surface.

The staples get hid by a number of ingenious methods and techniques that someone else can describe.

The off wall method involves making a number of frames covered with fabric, insert linacoustic and hang the assembly on the wall.

BIGmouthinDC
01-25-07, 03:51 PM
If you have a big wall you just break it into pieces smaller than the fabric.

If you are going to have a chair rail you can do the part above in one run and the part below in another.

If you are going to have decorative/functional columns you space them just a little less than the width of the fabric apart.

Even without columns you can do a series of panels with seams with the staples hidden.

Or if using the off wall frame method (see Gpowers thread) you just come up with a grid pattern.

strange_brew
01-25-07, 03:54 PM
Furring strips are pieces of wood (usually 1x2) that you use as a "stapling base", and to "furr" up to the depth of your acoustic treatments from your drywall. For example, if you are using 1" Linacoustic, then you would put a 1x2 on the drywall where you want your GOM to start and end. Assuming you are going to be covering it with some type of moulding, then you make sure that the furring strip is positioned where your moulding will be. If you don't want to have a moulding, then staple the GOM to the back of the furring strip and mount the strip on the wall with the staples against the drywall (where the wall meets the ceiling for example) and you will have a nice finish vs. seeing staples.

Note that a 1x2 is actually 3/4" thick and your acoustic treatments are 1" thick so, depending on your application, you may want to put some 1/4" material to make up the difference.

here is a picture that shows some furring strips in my theater which are "encasing" my 1" acoustic treatment.

http://www.reedzone.com/wall_treatments.jpg

I will use the strips to staple my GOM. Then I will be building wood "frames" on top of the furring strips. As you can see, I am simply making sure that I have a solid piece of wood to either nail to or staple to. That's probably the easiest way to try and understand it - just make sure you have something to staple to anywhere your GOM either ends or changes direction by 90 deg. (inside corner, wall / ceiling intersection etc..). Just make sure you are able to cover or hide the staples somehow (either with a moulding or as described above).

On mounting the Linacoustic - I think the best way is to use 3M 77 spray adhesive - works like a charm for me.

Hope that helps!

EDIT: I must type really slow! good advice above...

Daniel Hutnicki
01-25-07, 03:58 PM
you guys are the best and Bigmouth I dont have a RS1 for you but i do have a G11 ready and waiting

strange_brew
01-25-07, 04:02 PM
I'll settle for moving up the pre-buy list ;)

vfrjim
01-25-07, 06:25 PM
What do people do when they apply the lincoustics on the wall and they come to an outlet?

Thanks

strange_brew
01-25-07, 06:28 PM
What do people do when they apply the lincoustics on the wall and they come to an outlet?
Thanks use furring strips around the perimeter of the outlet. Again, so you have somewhere to staple the fabric. Cut out the fabric with a utility knife around the outlet then install the cover plate and receptacle (you may need to use long screws to "grab" your outlet box, or you can use an extender).

Daniel Hutnicki
01-25-07, 06:52 PM
do you nail the furring strips to the drywall?

cthomson
01-25-07, 07:03 PM
Daniel,

I did not use sheetrock screws to put up my Linacoustic. I used Scotch 777 spray adhesive and it stuck like crazy. I rolled it out and cut it into managable lengths for glueing. Once you stick it there is no second chance without tearing.

I found the 3/4" thick furring strips worked well for me. After the fabric was streched and stapled it gave the wall a slightly padded look.

Cy

cthomson
01-25-07, 07:06 PM
I used sheetrock screws to attach the strips. Through the sheetrock and caught the studs in the wall.

Cy

LoudandClear
01-25-07, 08:03 PM
do you nail the furring strips to the drywall?

All of the outlets will be attached to a stud at least on 1 side so the f strip would be stud secured. The only time I have seen one that is not attached to a stud is if it was installed after construction by a homeowner. So since your frame will only around 3X6 inches (very small) for a single outlet and 6X6 (double outlet), having one side nailed to the stud and putting construction adhesive under the whole frame will hold it in place.

Actually I put construction adhesive under all my furring strips because some were not attached to studs. I used 2 inch 15 ga finish nails and always drove them in pairs creating a V from the top and used a nail gun. That way the nails would have to bend for the strip to be pulled out. Once the construction adhesive dried, it was difficult to remove and if I did remove one, it would remove a good chunk of the sheetrock.

CaspianM
01-26-07, 10:22 AM
I used drywall screw with fender washer. But also used some silicone under the linac. at the screw point. used 1 screw on each corner.

BOLMS
02-01-07, 11:28 PM
As someone new to HT and trying to learn from this thread, when the GOM is attached to the furring strips on the wall is the wall fairly soft with the linacoustic behind it when it is finished? Is the linacoustic a solid material like drywall or soft material like insulation? From the pictures I've seen it seems like the walls look solid but I can't really tell. Thanks.

FineDesign
02-02-07, 08:41 AM
The linacoustic is soft, like insulation. Picture 6 inches of insulation compressed to about 1 inch, with a backing similar to tar paper.

For those who are installing the GOM on wall (as opposed to frames), how do you get it to not have any ripples/waves to it? I used 1/2 inch staples about every 1/2 inch, and when I look down the fabric, it has waves. Am I pulling the fabric too tight?