I'm going over the supply list for my future basement, and noticing how much cheaper 2x3s and than 2x4s. Since none of these walls will be load bearing, is there any reason to use 2x4s instead of 2x3s? The cost savings on my 2000 square foot basement with 5 interior walls would be substantial. Not to mentione ach room would be a bit bigger. ;)

"... 2x4's and not 2x2's?"
Stability, wiring, plumbing, HVAC, and insulation for starters. You could build walls out of toothpicks, cardboard or sailcloth, but, that limits what you can put inside the wall. One inch partition walls have been used for years.

2x3's will be ok structurally and for safety. The wall won't fall over if you lean against it if that's what you're worrying about. Here are a few reasons you may wish to go with 2x4s over 2x3s though:

-you'll be able to use thicker insulation on exterior walls. Insulation looses its value if it's compressed (squished) so you can't just get a better R value insulation and jam it into your 3" (nominal) walls
-if you want to run speaker wire, cable, CAT5, electrical wiring or anything else in conduit so you can replace or add to your wiring needs later, your holes in 2x3s will just about be the whole thickness of the wood. Not good.
-thinner walls means sound will escape/penetrate much easier. You'll hear more noise enter the theater and more theater noise will escape to other rooms.


Those are a few reasons. That's not to say you can't cut costs by using 2x3s where it makes little difference like a closet and 2x4s where needed elsewhere.

Doorjambs, I think only are made for 4" or 6" walls as well (may be wrong on that one)

If you're not in a cold climate, and insulation is not a problem, I think that you could use 2x2s for outside walls, or even furring strips, although electrical boxes would be a challenge.

Look at the stacks of lumber next time you get a chance, particularly the 2x2's...they look like a bunch of hockey sticks in there, the 2x3s are a little straighter, and the 2x4s are straighter yet (still a lot of warped 2x4's though, too many :confused: )

2x4's are used extensively in room framing because, as stated by the other posts, they are the best fit for strength, form, function, etc.

"... 2x4's and not 2x2's?"
Stability, wiring, plumbing, HVAC, and insulation for starters. You could build walls out of toothpicks, cardboard or sailcloth, but, that limits what you can put inside the wall. One inch partition walls have been used for years.


Did not know that, in fact, that is the first I've ever heard of that. What do they use as a wall, that's almost like 2 sheets of drywall glued to the ceiling and floor?

Bare in mind that these walls are not structural, but, privacy partitions. Today, they are commonly used for office cubicles and in bathroom stalls. My grandfather's office used paneled walls (floor to ceiling); the 1/4 " panels were framed using 1 by material (oak). Terrible acoustics!
Our business conference room is a wall of thick tempered glass (door too), the wall is secured at the floor using aluminum channel.
Also, ships, boats, trains and planes often use thin partition walls.

Any reason walls are built with 2x4s and not 2x2s?

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I'm going over the supply list for my future basement, and noticing how much cheaper 2x3s and than 2x4s

Your title says 2X2's but your post says 2X3s. Code here in Northern Virigina says either 2X3 or 2X4 is OK. I wouldn't go with 2X2 even for non-loadbearing as they just aren't stiff enough. I've ripped 2X2 from 2X6's for my soffit and that's about all I would use 2X2 for.

Good luck!
Tom

Why not go with steel studs? They are cheap, light, straight, and easy to install.

I built my basement with 2x3s due to them being cheaper. I did use 2x4 base plats and headers, and 2x4s on walls with doors. Everything appears to be A.O.K.

I've been using 2x3's in my basement remodel as furring strips on the concrete walls. They're cheap and usually much straighter than the conventional 1x3 furring strips you see out there. Also, you can put in two layers of the 3/4" rigid insulation for a little more R-value.

Did not know that, in fact, that is the first I've ever heard of that. What do they use as a wall, that's almost like 2 sheets of drywall glued to the ceiling and floor?

There is a whole neighborhood of houses here close to me where the houses are built with 2x2 walls. I think the houses were put up right after world war 2 in a big hurry and meant as temporary housing for a surge of people moving to town. I don't know much about it, but it was definately something I was watching out for when I bought my house last year.

There are still lots of these houses still around today (practically the entire neighborhood). Definately not to code today!

Anyway, I was wondering if anybody has doe a 2x2 or 2x3 staggered stud wall? Seems like a cost effective alternative perhaps?


Tboy

you need treated on the floor for a baseplate...I dont know if they make treated 2x3's

using less than 2x4 construction in an effort to save money will cause you more aggravation than it is worth.

If the walls are not load bearing you could go with larger openings between the studs to save some money, but I wouldn't go with less than 2x4 construction.

using less than 2x4 construction in an effort to save money will cause you more aggravation than it is worth.

If the walls are not load bearing you could go with larger openings between the studs to save some money, but I wouldn't go with less than 2x4 construction.


Please explain. What types of aggrevation? I framed my basement with 2x3s (2x4 top and base plates) on all walls except those with doors, where I used 2x4s. No problem during construction, no problem now (2.5 years). I used R-13 Insulation just fine for the walls. I'm interested in the aggrevation as maybe that will come down the road where I wish I had used all 2x4s. This way, I can be prepared.

Why not go with steel studs? They are cheap, light, straight, and easy to install.
BINGO............we have a winner :D

Why not go with steel studs? They are cheap, light, straight, and easy to install.

That's what I'm using. Especially since all steel studs are being replaced by the new UltraSteel studs, which have better acoustical properties. Plus they look cool.

http://www.dietrichindustries.com/ultrasteel/menu.asp

Please explain. What types of aggrevation? I framed my basement with 2x3s (2x4 top and base plates) on all walls except those with doors, where I used 2x4s. No problem during construction, no problem now (2.5 years). I used R-13 Insulation just fine for the walls. I'm interested in the aggrevation as maybe that will come down the road where I wish I had used all 2x4s. This way, I can be prepared.


Building materials are fairly standardized for such things as doors, windows, insulation, etc. Interior walls are typically built with nothing less than 2x4 construction. You found that out on the walls where you wanted to install your doors.

When you deviate from standardized construction dimensions you have to adapt components that go into a wall. It is just my opinion that deviating to save $x.xx may cause for an aggravation expense depending on the parameters of your build. You seem to have overcome those potentials in your construction, and I do not believe you will have any future issues by doing it the way you did.

If I had my choice I would have engineered stud walls (verision of oriented strand board that is now being made as conventional lumber) or steel studs. The reason being is that these products are STRAIGHT. No bows or twists. Perfect surface to mount drywall to.......

Building materials are fairly standardized for such things as doors, windows, insulation, etc. Interior walls are typically built with nothing less than 2x4 construction. You found that out on the walls where you wanted to install your doors.

When you deviate from standardized construction dimensions you have to adapt components that go into a wall. It is just my opinion that deviating to save $x.xx may cause for an aggravation expense depending on the parameters of your build. You seem to have overcome those potentials in your construction, and I do not believe you will have any future issues by doing it the way you did.

If I had my choice I would have engineered stud walls (verision of oriented strand board that is now being made as conventional lumber) or steel studs. The reason being is that these products are STRAIGHT. No bows or twists. Perfect surface to mount drywall to.......

Thanks, I was afraid I may run into something structurally wrong in the future. I was on a tight budget, so it made sense for me to use 2x3s on all the walls without doors.

arent steel studs more expensive?

arent steel studs more expensive?

At my lowes, they are 5.37 per where 2x4's are $2.17. Plus, my basement on my 1928 house has 7 foot ceilings and the steel studs don't have a short option like I can buy 2x4's in.

Tboy