I have my riser framed and ready to be topped, but have a few questions about installing rope lighting first. I want to put an outlet under the step if possible for easier access. I plan on running a switch from it to a back wall for dimming control. What I don't understand is how rope lighting starts and stops. My outlet would not be on one end of the riser. Do I run and extension from it to the starting point? How do I get that 2nd row around the step? I've included a picture to hopefully help. Red where the lights would go and yellow where I want the outlet box.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9671/riserdi3.png (http://imageshack.us)

RxMan1,
I am no expert but I am pretty sure that that outlet HAS to be accessible. You can not have it enclosed inside your riser unless you have a cutout access hole.

I haven't seen a definite answer on what is considered accessable. Let's say I mount my box accessible from the outside and run the rope lights from there. How do I get that 2nd strand around the steps? Also the step on the other side. The lights would start in the corner and run around the top. Would I plug in a 2nd strand and run to the step? What would be used where the green line is?

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4962/riser2yy7.png (http://imageshack.us)

I would also like the rope lights to be controllable via my Harmony remote. I don't think it's as simple as attaching a dimmer switch to an outlet.

I have asked the dimmer switch controlling the outlet question about 5 times and each time I get a different answer. For some reason I think it may be against code, unless you have a specific outlet designed for such. But I may be plain stupid also, so who knows?

Here is an idea for the riser. Maybe build the first step with a hinge so it can actually be lifted up. Place your outlet inside there. You could also route a portion of the rope light through the empty space. Basically, to achieve what you want with only one continuous rope you would need to run the rope light at some point through the riser. For example, from plug to 1st step border, back into riser compartment then out to 2nd step starting point, then all the way around. I think I may of confused myself, but hopefully that makes a little sense.

I understand what you are saying about the routing of lights. Is there any problem with having that kind of heat inside the riser itself?

I'm reading up on the Lutron Maestro, but not having much luck. I've also seen the lamplinc and switchlinc stuff, but it is not controllable via remote yet.

I understand what you are saying about the routing of lights. Is there any problem with having that kind of heat inside the riser itself?

I'm reading up on the Lutron Maestro, but not having much luck. I've also seen the lamplinc and switchlinc stuff, but it is not controllable via remote yet.

Look into the new Z-wave technology. No special wiring and you can have a bunch of dimmers on your mesh network. The new line of Z-wave Leviton dimmers come out in a week or so. I am going to be most likely getting the Harmony 1000 and using at least (5) Zwave dimmers on my system. I have the Maestro and trust me it is not the right tool for the job. You can not individualy address the dimmers. You need a graphic eye system to do any kind of advanced lighting control. Take a look at the Monster Cable AVL-300 remote control for information.

I have asked the dimmer switch controlling the outlet question about 5 times and each time I get a different answer. For some reason I think it may be against code, unless you have a specific outlet designed for such. But I may be plain stupid also, so who knows?

Here is an idea for the riser. Maybe build the first step with a hinge so it can actually be lifted up. Place your outlet inside there. You could also route a portion of the rope light through the empty space. Basically, to achieve what you want with only one continuous rope you would need to run the rope light at some point through the riser. For example, from plug to 1st step border, back into riser compartment then out to 2nd step starting point, then all the way around. I think I may of confused myself, but hopefully that makes a little sense.

Is it against code to bury an outlet in the ceiling or floor? If so, how do most people hide the electrical connection for their ceiling mounted projectors?

Right now I need to know where to put the outlet, etc so I can finish my riser.

Is it against code to bury an outlet in the ceiling or floor? If so, how do most people hide the electrical connection for their ceiling mounted projectors?

The plate is still accessable from the ceiling. Flush with the ceiling. I'm talking about having the outlet inside the riser where it could only be accessed by removing the wood covering the top of the step.

I finally found this. I plan on using this for now.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8071547&highlight=dimmer+outlet#post8071547

Rxman,

The Lutron IR dimmer is a quick and easy way for a single lighting zone control. I've used one before and they work great. If you needed (6) lighting zone control, this would not work as well.

As for your rope lighting, I suggest (3) pieces of rope to light your platform.

- Rope 1: Left side by the step
- Rope 2: Right ride from the wall to the right side of the step
- Rope 3: Bottom Step

Drill a single 1" hole drilled under the lip on the right side of the upper step (which should be hidden from view). This would allow you to get the rope from above, into the inner cavity of the platform and finally into the "hidden" area below the lower step. The key is to make sure you install a pull-string before you put the top on your platform. This string will allow you to get the rope lighting through the 1" hole and down to the area below the step. You can make the hole below the lower step larger in diameter so to make it easier to grab the rope lighting with your hand. The larger size hole (in this case) is not an issue since it will be hidden under the lower step. Next, plug everything into a single outlet.

Rope lighting can be cut every 24"-36". I've seen some advertised "brands" of rope that can be cut every 18". (https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=245&step=4) Home Depot also sells shorter pieces that might work out nicely. After the rope is cut, you use a kit (that is bought from the place you get the rope lighting) that allows you to put a plug on the end of the cut piece of rope as well as a end-cap for the other end.
https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/prodimg/Con_KIT_P3_IND.jpg (https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=48&step=4)

The main reason for having the outlet for the rope light somewhat accessable is when it comes time to replace a section. If you make a riser step removable there should be no problem with it hidden in there. With that said though I would hard wire the rope lights if you are going to put the outlet inside of the riser.

As for dimming. Make sure you are buying rope light that is just that. There is a bunch out there that has dimmers and other crap installed inline. They do really nasty things to expensive remote dimming switches. As long as everything is wired correctly use a standard dimmer switch to control the outlet box in the riser. I have been using the X10 and then my pronto remote to control all of the lights in the room.

Heat shouldn't be to big of a problem. possibly drill a few extra vents towards the inside of the riser. This will allow some air movement but keep it hidden from the outside world. Also if you put the box inside the step of the riser DO NOT insulate that section. That will cause way to much heat to build up.

timbre

Thanks again. Hopefully, I'll get this thing put together today.

I'm going to give that Lutron dimmer switch a try for now. I've decided to go back to my original plan of having an access panel on the back of the riser which will be accessible from the closet behind it. I will place the outlet back there and run the rope lighting from it. 3 separate strands. The blue shows standard extension cords run to the various start points. One strand around the entire top. Strands around each of the lower steps.

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6124/riser3di8.png (http://imageshack.us)

Novelty lights sells rope light that can be cut every 18". As far as connection why not put a junction box under your moveable riser. I would assume that meets the definition of accessible. I would install the rope light as stated above but cut the ends of the plugs and join them inside the junction box (blue electrical box with a cover).

RxMan,

1st – let’s address the outlet. I would think that if the step is easily accessible under each of the steps, you should be fine. BUT, I’m sure codes are different in every state.

On the rope lighting, you can cut it to nearly any length you need (following the 18-36” cut marks on the particular rope lighting you buy). The plug goes at one end and the other has a simple plastic cap. Just as mentioned above, you do need to consider what kind of rope to buy. They offer low voltage and line voltage. Line voltage is the way you want to go because you can use almost any dimmer to dim the light and it reduces the risk of introducing any hum into your audio.

I forgot about the 2nd step on the other side of the platform – so here is a modification and a pic to show a wiring suggestion. In order to get a clean look on your rope lighting, you will need (4) strands of rope. I have those strands color coded in the pic below:

- Green (left side of riser and right side of step)
- Red (under lower left step,)
- Blue (around front, upper right step and riser side by the wall
- Orange (under lower right step)

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/rxman-riser1.JPG

The Romex (pink) wire (which may/may not need to be encased in conduit depending on your states code) can be split at the wall jack or under the right step -- ultimately running to both steps. Put your outlet under each step (with a hinge on the step for accessibility as mbgonzomd suggested earlier). You’ll plug in the Green, Red and Blue rope on the left step (you’ll need a quad plug or a splitter of some type) and the orange under the right step. Of course, you can run them anyway you like – this was just a quick suggestion

As far as heat, they do not put off much at all. As long as only a small portion lives inside the riser, you should be fine. Which, if using my suggestion above, will be the case (see area circled in black).

Just my .02 :)

I am 90% done with the riser. All is left is the felt and last layer of plywood. Thanks to everyone who helped. I obviously could not have done it without many questions being answered.

I am 90% done with the riser. All is left is the felt and last layer of plywood. Thanks to everyone who helped. I obviously could not have done it without many questions being answered.

I've been shopping around and reading forums and I found a pretty cool site for rope lighting information. rope-lighting:oorg

As just to let you guys know for future references... I've found that this place called Birddog Distributing, Inc. has the best price with shipping included on the 150' spools of rope light that can be cut every 18". birddogdistributing:ocom

You may want to also check out: www (dot) ccl-light (dot) com.

I have no experience with either, but they appear to be cheaper even with shipping.

Mark.

You may want to also check out: ww (dot) ccl-light (dot) com.

I have no experience with either, but they appear to be cheaper even with shipping.

Mark.


Mark, I looked at ccl-light's website and it says they have a minimum order of $100. As for the cheapest prices after shipping I think it just may depend on your location. I'm in zip 31220 and the Birddog Distributing, Inc. company appears to be cheaper for me and also has no minimum order.

I am no expert but I am pretty sure that that outlet HAS to be accessible.

Only if it is gonna be inspected. <g> I would want to be able to get at any plug, myself....

I would REALLY recommend spending the money on LED ropes. Standard ones are gonna drive you nuts with burned out sections that mean replacing the whole string.
In fact, I would bet you money that if you put in standard ones, you will wind up switching to LED after a few burn-outs that flat piss you off. Sure standard bulb ones are cheaper but LED are well worth the high price, IMHO. A simple case of "get what you pay for". Be sure they will work with you dimmers w/o flicker - they work great with my Grafik Eyes....

Got mine from 1000bulbs.com

I am 90% done with the riser. All is left is the felt and last layer of plywood. Thanks to everyone who helped. I obviously could not have done it without many questions being answered.
RxMan,

Any updated pics of your completed riser and room?