I am looking to replace two existing sliding dimmer switches with a remote control version. I have looked through the threads and found references to Insteon, X10, Lutron, etc. However, I was unable to find any reference that these would work with an existing universal IR remote control, like a Harmony that I intend to purchase. So that's what I am looking for: two inexpensive dimmers that will be operated by a universal remote like the Harmony 880. (I do not want to add more remotes, and all I need is two switches). Any ideas?

Thanks, Tom

As I continue my search, Lutron's Maestro looks like a good option. Any epxerience with this?

The Maestro will work as long as you have line of sight for the IR command. Things to note:
You cannot control them independently so if you raise the lights they will both raise if you lower the lights they will both lower. The one thing you can do is preset them independently. So if you have different normal settings that you keep the switches at, it will be one button press or you can set the harmony to send the preset command upon entering a particular activity. FYI off can be a preset. It will probably fit the bill for you.

Is the Lutron Spacer system still available? I have not looked in a while, but I know people were using them before.

I think this might be what your looking for: Infrared X10 Command Console IR-543 (http://www.smarthome.com/4040.html)

Then add some of these: SwitchLinc V2 Dimmer (http://www.smarthome.com/2476d.html) or their higher wattage versions if needed.

I think chinadog is using the IR command console in his HT and I will be ordering one for mine as well.

sconner

I use the Lutron Spacer switches with my Universal Remote MX 800 through the IR function. Works well - just follow oman321's note about setting them independently.

I use the inexpensive X10 peices that sconner mentioned and they work very well.

Dan

Tallen01, I use two Lutron dimmers with the harmony remote as well. Like oman321 mentioned line of sight and lack of independent control is the only problem. In my case I usually use the dimmers to turn on or off the lights so this is not a problem. They work great with the Harmony.

There is a way to work around line of sight issues:

If you have access to run electrical wires in the room you could put in the three-way version of the Maestro Dimmers. Wire and install the switch with the built-in IR receiver wherever your keep your equipment, then put an IR emitter on it and control it and the rest of your a/v gear with an IR or RF repeater for your learnable remote of choice. Wire the other three-way accessory dimmer to the room entry(or wherever you want) for manual use of the circuit when going in/out of the room, etc. Really simple and it just works.

I have a set and I think they work great, I have it programmed into my Pronto and I've never had a problem, which is extremely important when you are like me and you hate getting up off the couch to turn the lights down. They are only like $40-$60 I think.

Information to help you make your decision. Here are the requirements/steps to make the Insteon stuff work with IR controller.

You will need two v2 switchlinc dimmers, an IR X10 Command Console, and IR codes for the insteon x10 dimmers found on RemoteCentral.com to program into your brand remote control.

You install the dimmers and plug in the command console. You have to link the dimmers to the command console buttons and then you can use the codes programmed into your brand remote to control (set scenes/levels) the lights.

Note: the command console has to be plugged into the wall and in the path of the IR signal. Mine is in the front of the room behind the proscenium. I put a small piece of black electric tape over the red light that blinks as it receives the IR signal.

BTW, I have a Lutron Grafik Eye (I don't think you want to spend that much) which has IR control similar to the Spacer system. The controller is on the side wall next to the door when you walk in and when I am doing anything with my system (lighting or projector on the ceiling) all I do is point the remote at the equipment rack under the screen and everything works. Of course, I am thinking this works because the screen is somewhat reflective and the signals bounce off of it and get to the respective receivers just fine. My only touchy IR receivers are actually my satelite box and my new DVD player.

Thanks everyone. This is exactly what I needed to know!