Evening everyone, just wondering if anyone out there can give me some ideas out there on how to fix this problem. I have a drain in my current laundry room which will sit about 3 or 4 inches into my new theatre. I talked to a plumbing friend of mine and he said its no big deal. Cover it over..water will find it. I was just wondering if anyone could give me a sketch on what they would do other then completely cover it in. I know i could just move my double wall in a foot or so, but space is premium and I am trying to keep the room as big as possible

Here is the wall I am butting up against..i want to make one continuous wall in the new furnace room.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/NeoOiler/DSC01822.jpg

Here is my friend the drain and approximate location of the outer of the doublewall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/NeoOiler/DSC01823.jpg

Any suggestions would be immensely appreciated.

Thanks
Ryan

Disclaimer: I'm no plumber. Can you cut a 4 inch hole in the concrete on the laundry side of the wall and drill a hole or cut a channel to the drain?

Given the location of the drain relocating to the other side of that wall is about a one weekend job assuming that it's PVC. But first a few questions. What is that hose sticking in it??? Also do you have a sump pump system for basement protection? has this drain ever been used?? Is the floor sloped to the drain and is their a low spot on the other side of the wall?

Assuming you have all the right answers you can move it.

You basically bust out a channel of the concrete down to the gravel underneath the concrete (rent a impact drill mini-jack hammer $25 day) from the current location to the new location.

Dig out around the PVC pipe, cut and glue new sections to the new location (don't forget the p-trap).

Then mix up a batch of concrete and pour it in and smooth it out.

Browse some of the plumbing books at HD and look at how they retro fit plumbing in basements. The pics will give you some idea of what's involved in digging etc.

I had to dig a trench out for an electrical run. It was about 6 feet and it took 2.5 hours with rented jack. Get your plumbing friend to help!!!!

I really dont want to move the drain. I know that sounds lazy, but I just dont want to crack up my concrete. I have never had any problems with leaks or anything and I really dont want to tempt fate. The hose is from a run through humidifier. There is no sump pump, I have weaping tile that drain right into the citys drainage system (not allowed to do that anymore) Only about 6" around the drain the floor is sloped. Everything else is level. It was mainly for the washer and hot water tank if they ever leaked. The washer and dryer are being moved to a new location so the hot water tank is the only leakable item.

I was thinking of just notching out the wall for the drain ( for access)

Thanks

Ryan

That is what I was thinking too, just notch around the drain, make a column there. The column wouldn't even need to go up to the ceiling. Just enough to make space around the drain. Doesn't even have to be a square column. Could be circular or triangular. Make it go up two or three feet or so then put a flat top on it for a speaker support? Something like that... plant pot holder even?

I am about to have my floor jackhammered, so I hope it works well for me.

On the water heater, I just had an arrester put on that will shut off the main if your tank bursts. Part cost $140. Pics in this post (scroll down).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9657782&&#post9657782

Its no big deal, a friend who is a master plumber and I did it in a weekend.

Before

http://photos.imageevent.com/rapplebee/davesmiscphotos/forumdiscussionphotos/websize/IMG_1260.JPG

After

http://photos.imageevent.com/rapplebee/davesmiscphotos/forumdiscussionphotos/websize/IMG_1272.JPG

With Tile in the bathroom and carpet and padding on the floor, nobody will ever see or feel it. This was a fairly long run, yours should be a 3' max deal.

I am about to have my floor jackhammered, so I hope it works well for me.

On the water heater, I just had an arrester put on that will shut off the main if your tank bursts. Part cost $140. Pics in this post (scroll down).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9657782&&#post9657782

DC, I assume the sump pump was not nearby to simply run a pvc pipe to? Water heaters don't explode, they drip after the tank cracks. Here is my $30 solution to the same issue, but the sump pump pit and condensate drain pipe are only inches away from my heater. The only proplem I see with that solution is that it appears that the valve is on the feed side (cold water) of the hot water tank. You will still end up dumping the entire 50 galons or more of your hot water tank on the floor before it stops. That seems like a great solution if the pit is not nearby, but with your furnace right there, where does the condensate go? It looks from the pictures that the pipe is inches from the heater.

Hey DC, where do you like in Mass anyway? All my imediate family is from Fall River and I have a large extended family spread out in that area.

http://photos.imageevent.com/rapplebee/davesmiscphotos/forumdiscussionphotos/websize/IMG_1267.JPG

I really dont want to move the drain. I know that sounds lazy, but I just dont want to crack up my concrete. I was thinking of just notching out the wall for the drain ( for access) Ryan

Ryan,
You have been gorged by the horns of dilemma. Move the drain or move the wall; it's as simple as that. Ever heard of flanking noise? If water can breach the wall... then so too can sound.

Winkelmann

Here is a quick sketch of what i was planning. It would be under the stage anyways.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/NeoOiler/Drain-Sketch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/NeoOiler/Stage-Sketch.jpg

Ryan

Have you had any problems in the past with flooding? If not and YOU feel comfortable, cover it up. If you decide to move it, you need to make sure it is not p-trapped at the main trunk before you install a p-trap. Double p-traps will cause a loss of suction, and mess the whole system up. Just my opinion.

scott

Thats what i was thiinking. I have been in the house for 7 years and never had flooding being a problem, except for once when it came through the window on the other side of the basement. But that was my fault, didnt clean out the window wells. And there was no way it was making it to that drain anyways.


Thanks for all the info everyone.

Ryan

Based on your sketch, I think your solution will work fine. Didn't realize the position of the stage (previously).