View Full Version : Input B problem on G70.


Grae
02-24-07, 11:53 PM
I just got a new Moome Hdmi card and have discovered I seem to be having some kind of issues with Input B on my G70. The problem itself is that I'm recieving no blue output from any device, both over component and Hdmi. Within the menu the blue works fine, but there's no projected image looking inside the lense.

I've checked every imagineable setting and can't see anything out of the ordinairy. The card has been tested within two other G70's and it works flawlessly in them so there's no issue with that. I've also tested an IFB-12 card within the B input, which actually works, but I have to pump up hue almost to max to get the correct color...

I have a parts G70 that I can use to swap boards and such with. Could the culprit be the QM board? I'm a bit leary of swapping parts because I've heard some horror stories when people do it with their G70's, but I'd like to get the issue resolved soon. Any help to determine the actual problem would very much be appreciated.

-Josh

Axatax
02-25-07, 12:58 AM
I fought with the original Moome card for about two days with a similar problem. No image in one tube, with the images in the other two being distorted.

Toggling ABG on and a off fixed this problem. Don't ask me why.

Grae
02-25-07, 01:08 AM
Gave it a go. Still no blue output.

Don Rombach
02-25-07, 08:01 AM
Insure that the card is fully seated. On my G70, the card would not fully seat because it was hitting the plastic cover. I had to sand off a bit of the plastic so the card could fully seat.

I am having other problems with this card, sorry to say. :(

Grae
02-25-07, 05:04 PM
Yeah, I've made sure to try that too. Since I'm having some kind of issue with the IFB-12 card as well, it just makes sense that it's gotta be a problem inside the projector itself.

Cheungcf
02-26-07, 08:11 AM
Hey Guys,

Have you set the jumper to JP1? If so, try to set Input B to HDTV-GBR. My G70 runs perfect with those settings.

Hope it helps.

Cheung

Grae
02-26-07, 05:21 PM
Yeah, I've tried every single jumper configuration and tried removing the gamma circuit as well.
I get no picture at all when set to GBR.

Jon Spackman
02-26-07, 05:28 PM
I have a 1292 and found that HDMI would not give me a picture when the card was in slot B. I removed the RGBHV card from slot A and put the HDMI card in there and it works pretty good. I am getting code 08 now and it is very, very tough to get the projector to get an image as of late, but I think it might be a raster/protection thing I will be checking my setup soon.

Anyway my point is that on a 1292 HDMI would not work (component did) in slot B.

Try slot A and see what happens.

Axatax
02-26-07, 05:52 PM
Try slot A and see what happens.

Slot "A" is fixed on a G70. B is the only place you can put the card.

Don Rombach
02-26-07, 06:57 PM
I have a 1292 and found that HDMI would not give me a picture when the card was in slot B. I removed the RGBHV card from slot A and put the HDMI card in there and it works pretty good. I am getting code 08 now and it is very, very tough to get the projector to get an image as of late, but I think it might be a raster/protection thing I will be checking my setup soon.

Anyway my point is that on a 1292 HDMI would not work (component did) in slot B.

Try slot A and see what happens.

Interesting.

I am having severe problems with the new HDMI card. I say interesting because when the card goes berserk, it also affects A input. Vertical lines flash across the screen similar but different than the same effect in B input.

I was toggling back and forth between A and B inputs to reboot the card. This sometimes worked. But just now, Both A and B went berserk causing the image to go way beyond my blanking settings to, and probably beyond the tube face. I immediately shut down.

Fortunately the spot kill still worked. I have since removed this card fearing it will ruin my pj.

Grae
02-26-07, 08:04 PM
It has to be a problem within the projector. I mean the card's been tested inside two other G70's and works fine. I asked about the QM board earlier. I believe this is the board that the input B cards are fixed into. Would there be any chance that the problem lies in there, and more importantly is it safe to swap it with another one without risk of damaging my projector?

Jon Spackman
02-26-07, 09:01 PM
Slot "A" is fixed on a G70. B is the only place you can put the card.


:o ohh. I feel silly now. Don PM me your number if you would. I would love to call and chat about our experiences with this card.

Thanks

Don Rombach
02-26-07, 10:02 PM
PM to you Jon

Axatax
02-26-07, 10:04 PM
I asked about the QM board earlier. I believe this is the board that the input B cards are fixed into.

Yes. Pop the left-hand side metal cover. There is a retaining clip held to the QM board with one screw, and one plastic pin. Remove both, and pull the QM board up.

Maybe try re-seating it a few times to dislodge any corosion.

Grae
02-27-07, 12:41 AM
This is totally frustrating...

I swapped boards and still have the same results. I have no clue as to what to test now. I did notice that while removing the metal cover my main G70 has something my parts machine doesn't. It's to the very left of the QM board and has two larger braided wires going to it. Is this the internal line doubler? Could that factor in?

Axatax
02-27-07, 01:57 AM
Is this the internal line doubler? Could that factor in?

Yes, that's the doubler. I have one in, with no ill effects. You can disable it in the menu "IDVT->IDTV Off". You can also remove the two sets of wires from the doubler to the B board if you're not using it (for good measure, it's probably useless to 99% of people here).

EDIT:

Some things to check (assuming you already haven't):

- If you have a parts machine, try swapping out the B board.
- Turn 5BNC mode off
- Input B set to RGB
- Worst case scenario, full reset of PJ

Grae
02-27-07, 09:10 PM
Removing the B board looks much more difficult than the QM. I'm a bit intimidated. Is there really a chance the B board would play into it?

Axatax
02-27-07, 09:52 PM
Removing the B board looks much more difficult than the QM. I'm a bit intimidated. Is there really a chance the B board would play into it?

You just pull the B board straight up.

The B board plays into *everything*. All input video passes through it.

Grae
02-27-07, 10:02 PM
Aha, thanks Axatax. Didn't see that I had to remove the gray back faceplate first. That certainly makes things a lot easier. I'll give it a try.

Grae
02-27-07, 11:22 PM
Haha! Eureka!

I've got things working now. Switched out the B and BA board and now I have blue output.

Thanks for all the help Axatax!

Grae
02-28-07, 12:07 AM
Ah, crap. Got excited too soon. I'm still having some kind of issue with my image. With the Moome card in, the image is now too blue and very dark. I have to bump up contrast a lot and it still doesn't seem right. Very washed out.

I also tried placing the IFB-12 in and it's acting extremely weird as well. The image will continually brighten up and almost go nuclear. I cut it off before it would do any damage to the projector.

I'm gonna try putting the old boards back in and see if it was just a seating or cable issue.

Axatax
02-28-07, 12:34 AM
Make sure the 6 cables connected to the B boards are orientated properly. If not, you can burn up your C blocks (been there).

JohnHWman
02-28-07, 04:24 AM
Yes, same feeling as Axatax,

You must have missconnected the 6 small coaxial cables on the swapped B board (J700/800/900 for Ks and J750/J850/J950 for G1s) :

- Red strippe coaxial to RG1 (J750)
- Orange strippe coaxial to RK (J700)
- Green strippe coaxial to GG1 (J850)
- Yellow strippe coaxial to GK (J800)
- Blue strippe coaxial to BG1 (J950)
- White strippe coaxial to BK (J900)

Also when changing B/BA board, you need to check and maybe redo G2+Bias and Gain adjustments.

Hope this help ;)

John

Grae
03-01-07, 12:33 AM
Things just keep getting worse and worse. I'm really regretting ever getting the Moome card now.

As I was changing boards again, the connector on the blue mini coax that leads to the B board came off. I'm sure I could crimp it back on if I got a new connector, but it's still a pain. The cable may have been the reason as to why I was having all these problems in the first place...

I'm thinking since this happened, it maybe a worthwhile venture to upgrade the video path and replace all the cables with better quality mini coax. I've got easy access to good quality 75 ohm cable. I'd just need to find the same type of connectors that feed into the B board.

Has anyone ever attempted this procedure on a Sony? Is it a wise idea? I could just remove the cable from the parts machine, but I'd kinda like to keep it in somewhat working order.

-Josh

Axatax
03-01-07, 01:18 AM
I'm sure I could crimp it back on if I got a new connector, but it's still a pain.

Good luck finding the connectors. NOBODY outside of Sony has been able to do this yet.

If you need a blue cable, I have one for the cost of shipping. Heck, you can have all three.

JohnHWman
03-01-07, 03:39 AM
Josh,

This thing is happening if you remove those coaxial cable connectors by the cable itself rather than use thin arms gripper on the male connector body.

It happens to me once and successfully repair this crimp connector by soldering the coaxial center wire to the connector tip and the shield to the connector body foldered parts. You can use a small flat screwdriver to enlarge the body foldered slots and then easely reassemble connector to the cable before solder it.

Hope this help

John

Grae
03-01-07, 10:47 PM
I actually made sure to pull out those cables by the connector body using a pair of needle nose pliers. I think the the blue cable's connector was just poorly crimped on there and loose. I didn't even notice it coming off.

I may still see if I can upgrade the video path by putting in better coax. I found some pins today at work that might work and hold well enough to the board.

Definitely will try it out on my parts machine before I do it to my main one, though.

Axatax
03-02-07, 12:24 AM
BTW: Cables went out in the mail today.

If you find a suitable replacement for the connectors, please let us know. SMA-type connectors would probably be ideal (would entail replacing the B and C board connectors as well).

Grae
03-03-07, 05:09 PM
Been looking all over for a suitable connector that would work within that board. Haven't really found anything that will fit snuggly within it, but I did notice that PartStore carries a bunch of replacement parts for the G70. There's a few pins and such listed within there, it'd be hard to determine if they actually carry that specific connecter without the actual name.

Partstore (http://www.partstore.com/ModelDetail.aspx?PageState=1&MfgID=76&ModelID=37828)

Anyone have any idea of who I could contact at Sony to find some more info?

Axatax
03-03-07, 06:30 PM
Anyone have any idea of who I could contact at Sony to find some more info?

What info are you looking for? PartStore just gets the items from Sony - so the only thing accomplished by ordering from them is an additional delay.

Sony does not sell the male connectors seperately. The part #s for the cables are as follows (and are not listed in the SM):

190023456, CONNECTOR ASSY, MINI PIN (B)
190023455, CONNECTOR ASSY, MINI PIN (G)
190023454, CONNECTOR ASSY, MINI PIN (R)

The parts #'s for the female receptacles for the B and C boards are in the service manual.