View Full Version : OT, but can't start till I fix fireplace
mredding 02-25-07, 10:56 PM So my fireplace is making my house smell, and Im at a loss. Im wondering if anyone can help me figure out what my problem is.
I have a typical wood burning fireplace, which was convereted to gas, and well we converted it back when we bought the house.
We have used it about 10 times now and tyipcally a day or two after its use, we get a horrible ash smell in the house.
We have a flu, and a floor vent, which im guessing having them both closed when not in use would be the way to go, but it just seems like something is leaking. I sealed the floorvent with duct tape, and garbage bags, but that made it worse.
I keep the flu open just a smidge and well cold air comes barrling down which smells like ash. I had the thing swept just a couple weeks ago, and that hasn't seemed to help.
Whenever we get rain or snow, the entire house just reaks! Anyone have some experiance with this sort of thing? I could really use some advice before calling a pro out to the house and well getting taken for lots of $$ on what I should do.
IHaveAMullet 02-25-07, 11:14 PM You can't just convert a gas fireplace back to a woodburning... the gas has a special flue that can only be used with a gas insert.
mredding 02-26-07, 08:01 AM Really? That is news to me.
It looks like any other flu. They took a clip off of it such that it would close normally. The clip was there to allow any fumes to escape, out of the 1/2 inch gap created by the clip.
MidLife 02-26-07, 09:59 AM Unless there is heat in the flue, it will back-draft, with the cold air falling down the flue and into the house bringing the smell with it. Closing the flue damper helps but only somewhat. Also, some fireplace inserts has a combustion air intake vent, from the outside. Look outside your house near the fireplace to see if there is a small vent. My fireplace has a combustion air inlet with a handle to close it inside the firebox. This help to close this as well, somewhat. Otherwise, a small gas pilot flame is enough to heat and draft the flue enough to move the air out. At my fathers house, he has to keep a small (gas) fire buring constantly to prevent the cold air from moving down the flue.
mredding 02-26-07, 09:34 PM So, i just spoke with this guy regarding an air makeup kit for the house, we have new windows and the house is fairly tight.
but this seems way too much money ~1500
anyone have one of these things?
i just wanted to get a lock top damper or something similar at the tune of 400-500.
anyone have some advice? i just don't understand how $`1500 is worth it.
we converted it back when we bought the house
Did "you" do it, or did a licensed contractor do it?
If it's a contractor, then you should complain to him/her.
If it's "you," then I would call a licensed fireplace contractor and ask for a bid on 1) making the fireplace safe for wood fires, if it isn't, and 2) mitigate the smell. And if it costs $1,500, then that's what it costs. Don't chance those things -- that's how people die of carbon monoxide poisoning, or houses burn down, or fire insurance is cancelled, or all kinds of other bad things happen.
mredding 02-26-07, 09:56 PM nope, someone came in and took it out for us.
not really sure its their fault though. they just removed the logs.
i can call them.
i had a sweep come out and they didn't mention anything, just that they could put a top damper in to the tune of 400 bucks.
its just this guy i called it touting the makeup air kit , i did some research and it doesn't look like it truly works. its a good idea, but ...?
bcarlsen 02-27-07, 07:22 PM Did they remove the gas appliance and pipes? If not, are they melting when you light a real fire?
Davinleeds 02-27-07, 08:00 PM I say you have an exterior (built on an exterior wall) type fireplace. These are prone to down drafts. The clips that were removed are required for gas log installation. These type are very prone-they react to the side (east/west/etc) of the house they're on along with heating by sun rise. Cold air is always denser and therefore heavier. That's why an interior placed chimney or fireplace works better. The flue is warmer. Your only recourse to "the smell", is closing the damper when you're sure the fire is out. To start, usually you have to roll a section of newspaper ( and open a window or nearby by door- to OFF SET THE AIR BALANCE) take the rolled paper while lit and hold it up the damper till it starts to draw(the colder the more difficult) multiple attempts may be required. Once it's started(depending on temp) an intense fire may be needed to maintain draft. Once it dies down, smoke may begin to seep into the living area. This indicates a design flaw. The throat area may need to be addressed. Usually, the expense verses enjoyment is too much. My observations.
wizbang 03-12-07, 03:13 PM You may need a fireplace deodorant. The product is made by Rutland. It runs under $10 and does wonders for fireplaces that have that musty smell to them. If you have an outside vent for combustion air, you stuff some insulation in there to prevent the draft
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