I ran into a problems this weekend putting up framing in the basement. There are three wires, phone, cable and 14awg power that the builder ran under a beam instead of around it. There isn't enough slack in the wires to move them and then all run upstairs, so disconnecting them and pulling them isn't an option.

Here's a pic:

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n105/johnnyq627/house/basement/framing/07Mar07/DSCN1687.jpg

The only thing I can think of is splicing them and putting a junction box on each side of the door, then running a 5' piece of each type of wire between each junction box.

Are there any easier/better options?

Nick

The only thing I can think of is splicing them and putting a junction box on each side of the door, then running a 5' piece of each type of wire between each junction box.

Are there any easier/better options?

Hi Nick,

I spent some time Saturday relocating some wires in a similar state in my basement. I have three such cases - one COAX and one low-voltage security wire, both which I can disconnect and re-pull. The third case were some power lines in the joist cavity where I will vent my fireplace. I needed to re-route these for combustible material clearance. I was able to add two recessed lighting cans in the right place for my plan and take the incoming wire from outside into the first can, join that with outbound wires to the next can, avoiding the vent space and then reconnect to the lines running to the upper floors in the second can. If pictures would help, I can post some tonight/tomorrow.

The problem I can think of with a junction box is that code requires you to leave junction boxes accessible and that's probably not what you want. I used the light fixtures for this purpose to avoid putting in junction boxes.

In the case of low-voltage lines, I don't know if you need to leave the junction boxes accessible or not, but I don't believe you can run low and line voltage lines in the same junction boxes (nor would you really want to).

Just my two cents,

-Ryan

1)If you can sacrifice 3/4 of an inch, just grab some 1x2 furring strips and bang up to those ceiling joists. Attach drywall to the furring leaving a 3/4 inch gap between drywall and ceiling.

2) Are you sure you can't trace the power line back to the breaker panel in the basement? I had one where I disconnect it at the panel pulled 30 ft back to the location. drilled a hole in the joist and put the wire back to the breaker. The other two lines you could just cut, drill hole in joist, splice wires and leave in the ceiling without an access panel.

Cut the tel and the coax, drill hole through beam and splice. You can have concealed splices with those two.

That other wire is either 14-3 NM or it kinda looks like speaker cable. That's one heck of a twist for a NM cable. You're sure it is a power cable? What does the sheathing say?

I apologize if you are saying to yourself "what does this guy think I'm an idiot?". :)

If it is NM cable, and you can't trace it back to the elec panel, cut it in an appropriate spot and run the ends into a closet or unimportant location(s). Install boxes as you suggested. Nothing says they have to be close to each other. If you can get one end into a closet on one side of the room and the other end on the opposite side of the room, just run 20' of cable between the two.

Oh, and obserce manufacturer's instructions on drilling through the engineered beam. There are a few rules, such as do not drill within 12" or bearing etc (that's off the top of my head, it may be different.. follow the manufacturer's guidelines)

Good luck,

Tim

Thanks guys, not sure why I didn't remember that I could splice the cable/phone wires without a junction box... momentary memory fault :) I think I was really just more woried about the power cable and yeah it's definitely power, 14awg. I was surprised to see the twist as well, not sure what happened there.

The light option so far sounds like a pretty good one. The water heater closet is right behind it, so maybe what I'll do is cut the wire and put one end to a light switch. Run new wire from there to light in the ceiling in the HW heater room, then from there to a junction box with the other side of the cut wire.

DC, I probably could pull the wire all the way back to the junction box, but to be honest didn't want to. Just seemed like a lot of work/cost compared to splicing it somehow.

Does anyone have a quick link to how to splice a phone cable?

Nick

Does anyone have a quick link to how to splice a phone cable?

Nick


You can use B connectors or scotchlok UY or UG connectors.

Good luck,

Tim

You can use B connectors or scotchlok UY or UG connectors.

Good luck,

Tim


Home Depot sells these:

http://www.idealindustries.com/dc/RFConnectors.nsf

(click on "Insulation Displacement Connectors")