I have a custom cabinet for my existing RPTV that has two sides, a top and no front, back or bottom. It is bolted to wall and the RPTV just slides into it with a perfect flush fit. The attached pix will help describe.

I want to replace the RPTV with a 57" flat panel. I'm trying to figure out how to use the cabinet. I thought of an articulating wall mount and then just put a matching panel across the front of the bottom (where the rptv base is now) but the cabinet is too deep (about 30") so I could not pull the tv out far enough to clear the cabinet if I want to access the back. And, I'm afraid that a permanently extended articulating arm isn't a good idea for a 125 lb TV.

I thought about sliding a table in there (covered by a panel) and using the TV stand but then the front of the stand would stick out when I flushed the screen with the cabinet sides.

I thought about just putting some vertical 2x4s between the floor and the top of the cabinet a couple inches behind the front and putting the mount on those but I dont think there is enough support.

Any ideas on how to mount in this cabinet would be much appreciated
Thanks

I'd put some 2 x 6s in there. As long as you have the cabinet well secured to the wall and the 2 x 6s well secured to the cabinet, I'd bet you'll be fine. Heck, you can attach a mount to 2 x 4s in the wall and be fine....2 x 6 even better.

What are you plans for the existing tv? If you are going to sell it or move it to another room in the house why not just let the custom cabinet go with it and start from scratch so to speak.

If that isn't an option you could take the sides off and drop the top down to a level that works for your seating arrangement and add 2 legs to the front and make it a nice "table" to sit the new tv on.

Thanks - I'm considering the 2x6 idea but I really don't want to mount them to the hardwood floor and screw up the floor if I don't have to. And, I don't think hanging 2/6 from the top of the cabinet and not securing them to the floor will be enough support.

The cabinet must stay b/c the spouse insists. She wants the top to put things on b/c she says it draws the eye away from the big blank screen. Thus, if I can't figure a good solution, then I'm keeping the RPTV

I was thinking mount 2ea of 2x6 horizontally

If you build a mount system within the Cabinet as shown in your picture and usuing 2X4's or 2x6's in the shape of a Triangle with the Vertical part facing you and the back part the angled down section, you could:

1. Use a standard Flat Panel wall mount (about $100)

2. put a " weight box" at the back of the structure and fill it with UNOPENED 50 pound bags of either sand or crushed stone - stack 2 high 2 wide (4 would do it = 200 ibs - about $16) to offset the weight of the Flat Planel hanging on the mount facing you.

3. You would have to do some careful measuring if you wanted the Flat Panel to be flush with the cabinet opening.

4. Buy some heavy felt at a "sewing" store and cut into strips that exceed the 2x4's or 2x6's that are going to rest on the floor buy about an inch on each side so that you will not mar up the beautiful hardwood floor.

5. Now that the display is mounted inside the cabinet you will need to dress up the area below the bottom of the Flat Panel and your floor. This result will depend on your wood working skils and what tools you have available but you could get real creative and if you are handy and have the access to tools, you could have built in shelves for your DVD's, or an Equipment rack for your equipment - lots of choices . . .and you can get the wife involved which I find usually helps.

I would suggest nuts and bolts with washers at both ends as opposed to nails for construction. When in doubt . . .think sturdy.

I hope your "minds eye" see's what mine is seeing - lot of potential with no damage to cabinet or floor. Everything attaches to the "stand" that you built.

I did something very similar than what you have but not nearly as critical in the measurement department. The only mount that I would consider is a CHIEF PDR mount. The PDR can extend up to 37 inches off the wall and is rated for 200lbs. I mounted a NEC 50XR6a on the smaller PNR and hung on it before I mounted the Plasma. Me and the mount were 200+ and it only sagged/deflected 1/16 of an inch. There are 3 legnths of 2x6 under those pieces of pine and that is secured with 6 3 inch Stainless Steel lag bolts with lock washers. Just make sure if you do it like what I did make sure the wooden mounting area is much larger than the foot print of the mount itself so when you get done and it may be a little off you can move the mount accordingly....IT CAN BE DONE. good luck man

OH yea, the other large benefit of the CHIEF mounts is than there is allot of adjustability so that if you are off up and down, or left to right a little you can adjust it without taking the mount down and drilling new holes.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/TV%20Mount/IMG_0173.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/TV%20Mount/IMG_0184.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/TV%20Mount/Plasma%20Finished/IMG_0186.jpg

This is all super-helpful. JS-44SDS - do you keep the Chief extended at all times - if so, how far? I am concerned that a Chief PDR extended 30" on a permanent basis buts too much stress on the mount - I'd really hate to have the TV crash to the ground in 6 months.

This is all super-helpful. JS-44SDS - do you keep the Chief extended at all times - if so, how far? I am concerned that a Chief PDR extended 30" on a permanent basis buts too much stress on the mount - I'd really hate to have the TV crash to the ground in 6 months.
I would say it is extended at 90% (approx. 20 inches) all the time to be even with the front of my furniture. You would not have to extend it 30 inches all the time if you built the wooden box out from the wall more. Make a deeper wooden box by lagging 1-2-3 or more 2x6's or use untreated 4x4's. Then instead of 6 lags use more...you would not believe how solid the mount is on the wall with 6 lag bolts but the more the merrier. One thing I left out....I initially found the studs with a stud finder but then I took an awl or a very pointy mini screwdriver and probed for the ends of the studs...the stud finder is not accurate enough for this. This is important so that you can make sure that the lag bolts are screwed into the stud center and just catching part of it. If it settles your nerves call CHIEF and tell them your concerns in regards to the weight of your panel (125lbs.) at full extension-they are very helpful there. When and if you decide to do it this way, either pm me and I will give you my number if that would help. Most importantly plan, measure, plan, measure, and take your time-it will be rewarded. :) Where are ya located?

I am concerned that a Chief PDR extended 30" on a permanent basis buts too much stress on the mount - I'd really hate to have the TV crash to the ground in 6 months.

If the mount is designed to extend 30", it will work to 30". It's not possible
mechanically to design a mount that works for a short period of time
consistently and fails long term at that position.

A poorly designed mount could fail at any position.....

To make a long story short, I have a 43" Pio plasma and want to go bigger. But my niche is only 47 1/4" wide, so I can't get the 50" in there. I've been thinking of sawing away the edge of the niche, or (gasp) moving to a 47" Vizio LCD that will fit.

But with this mount, I could mount it to the back of the niche and...VOILA...simple extend it and mount the plasma! The niche is only 24" deep, so add any buildup I might do on the back, and I'd be well within this puppy's range. BTW, here is the linky for the mount:
http://www.thestandstore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=21919&gclid=CMmzgPGu5IoCFSguYQodAAmy1Q#detaileddescription

Only issue is the cost...but since when is cost an issue when solving a problem like this!!! :D

BTW, here are some pix of my current setup.

Sounds great waltaz. You can find that mount cheaper than that! I did a quick Google search and easily found it cheaper (one place was mountsandmore.com). Run a pricegrabber.com search too. Good Luck.

Doug,

I am not sure if this has been mentioned or not, but you may want to do a little research to make sure the flat panel is ok being in an enclosed space like that. I know many of the flat panels have recommended clearance distances from the back of the panel to the wall, as well as from the top of the panel to the ceiling, in order to make sure the set has proper ventilation/air flow.

Dustin

Doug,

I am not sure if this has been mentioned or not, but you may want to do a little research to make sure the flat panel is ok being in an enclosed space like that. I know many of the flat panels have recommended clearance distances from the back of the panel to the wall, as well as from the top of the panel to the ceiling, in order to make sure the set has proper ventilation/air flow.

Dustin
Man forgot all about that....that idea is shot unless Doug can set up some kind of ventilation with a small fan.

Uh-oh - and it looked like it was going so well!! Do the LCD or Plasma panels have ventilation issues great than a RPTV? THE RPTV has been in the cabinet for five years without apparent issues.

The LCD will be fairly flush (1/4") at the bezel but the frame of the cabinet is only about 1/2" thick so immediately behind the bezel there will be clearance within the cabinet of 1" on either side, 3" on top, 20" on the bottom, and 20+" in the back. The cabinet itself is flush against the wall, closed on top and sides, and about 1/2" clearance along the floor.
Does this sound sufficient? I really don't want to hear any kind of fan and there is no easy way to further ventilate.

Uh-oh - and it looked like it was going so well!! Do the LCD or Plasma panels have ventilation issues great than a RPTV? THE RPTV has been in the cabinet for five years without apparent issues.

The LCD will be fairly flush (1/4") at the bezel but the frame of the cabinet is only about 1/2" thick so immediately behind the bezel there will be clearance within the cabinet of 1" on either side, 3" on top, 20" on the bottom, and 20+" in the back. The cabinet itself is flush against the wall, closed on top and sides, and about 1/2" clearance along the floor.
Does this sound sufficient? I really don't want to hear any kind of fan and there is no easy way to further ventilate.

I can't answer for LCDs, but a few plasma owners manuals I have seen have recommended more than 12" above the TV, due to the fans being on the top back part of the set.

Dustin

To make a long story short, I have a 43" Pio plasma and want to go bigger. But my niche is only 47 1/4" wide, so I can't get the 50" in there. I've been thinking of sawing away the edge of the niche, or (gasp) moving to a 47" Vizio LCD that will fit.

But with this mount, I could mount it to the back of the niche and...VOILA...simple extend it and mount the plasma! The niche is only 24" deep, so add any buildup I might do on the back, and I'd be well within this puppy's range. BTW, here is the linky for the mount:
http://www.thestandstore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=21919&gclid=CMmzgPGu5IoCFSguYQodAAmy1Q#detaileddescription

Only issue is the cost...but since when is cost an issue when solving a problem like this!!!
Question: Instead of that Chief mount, would this Peerless mount work:
http://www.mountsandmore.com/Peerless-PLA50-UNLP-GB-S-PE1147.html

The reason I ask is that Costco Home is carrying this for $299. It seems like it will do the trick - weight and distance-wise.

To verify: The niche, back-to-front is 24", so this mount, which extends out up to 29.9", should be just fine, right? I will be extending the plasma out to just in front of the niche, so about 25 or 26"...

Bumpity, bumpity, bumpity...

Peerless OK instead of Chief?

30" extension OK rather than 36-37" for a 24" deep niche? (panel is going out just in front of the niche)

One arm rather than two with the Peerless?

Looks to me like it'd work fine, don't see any reason why not.

Doug,

You could just remove the sides while leaving the top "mantle" in place. Then just put a lowboy credenza underneath and set the plasma with stand right on top.

Bumpity, bumpity, bumpity...

Peerless OK instead of Chief?

30" extension OK rather than 36-37" for a 24" deep niche? (panel is going out just in front of the niche)

One arm rather than two with the Peerless?
I only recommended the CHIEF mount because that is what I happened to buy on the recommendation of professional installers on another forum. I am sure the CHIEF is not the only mount that will work but I can tell you from experience that it is very strong-the mount deflected/sagged less than 1/16 of an inch with 260lbs. (me and the mount) hanging from it.

I can't answer for LCDs, but a few plasma owners manuals I have seen have recommended more than 12" above the TV, due to the fans being on the top back part of the set.

Dustin
Yea Dustin, I dont think that even with an aux. fan setup that it would be sufficient because of the space behind the plasma being so confined and even if you had a fan with enuff power you may hear the wind noise.


UNLESS Doug could make a vent either on the top/back of the unit but then it gets not to be fun anymore.

JS-44SDS

I need an urgent help. Yes, I bought the PDR-UB mount a week ago. The arms seem to be very strong. I did use six ancor bolts to secure the mount on the concrete wall.

But here is the problem. I'm trying to hang the 52" Samsung LCD TV. What I have is the PDR-U for universal mounting option. When I secured the four metal universal mounting bars behind the TV, I realized that the bars are assembled together by eight small screws. They are as thin as 4mm in diameter. Are they kidding me? Other parts were assembled by fairly thick bolts but the mounting brackets are done by eight tiny screws that are good for small electric appliances. What's even worse is that there are considerable gap between the two metal bars where the screw goes in, exposing about 3mm of the screws' thread.

I'm thinking about welding these bars. I really don't think that the eight small screws can hold 100lb+. I don't know how strong those screws are but they looked as if they'll snap in no time under the weight of the 52" TV. Any advice would be appreciated.

JS-44SDS

I need an urgent help. Yes, I bought the PDR-UB mount a week ago. The arms seem to be very strong. I did use six ancor bolts to secure the mount on the concrete wall.

But here is the problem. I'm trying to hang the 52" Samsung LCD TV. What I have is the PDR-U for universal mounting option. When I secured the four metal universal mounting bars behind the TV, I realized that the bars are assembled together by eight small screws. They are as thin as 4mm in diameter. Are they kidding me? Other parts were assembled by fairly thick bolts but the mounting brackets are done by eight tiny screws that are good for small electric appliances. What's even worse is that there are considerable gap between the two metal bars where the screw goes in, exposing about 3mm of the screws' thread.

I'm thinking about welding these bars. I really don't think that the eight small screws can hold 100lb+. I don't know how strong those screws are but they looked as if they'll snap in no time under the weight of the 52" TV. Any advice would be appreciated.

OASYS (by no means am I an expert) but Ill try to help you

My PNR-2042 plasma bracket are affixed to my NEC 50XR6a (75 lbs.) panel the same way (with 8 4mm screws). The "gap" between the bracket and the panel is taken up by nylon washers so that when you tighten the screws the bracket does not dig into the back of the panel (the brackets on mine are curved over on the ends to provide extra stregnth-I think). My mount was specifically made for my model and I do not have the Universal unit so the hardware provided with yours is "universal" in nature (maybe not the exact legnths you need). However, if you want take a small piece of wire to probe the screw holes to see how deep they are (your manual should/may also tell you this dimension) then add the "gap" legnth, the thickness of the bracket, and the thickness of any washers you use then you will know what the longest screw will fit. BE CAREFUL AS TO NOT BE TOO LONG AND TO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. As I recall (but I am not positive), I believe that if the fastener engages the thread 1 1/2 time the diameter then that is the strongest it will be in regards to not pulling out the threads(I will try to check this for you with a machinist friend of mine).

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/IMG_0236.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/IMG_0235.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/IMG_0234.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t15/JS-44SDS/TV%20Mount/Plasma%20Finished/IMG_0186.jpg

I realize your wifes opinion counts here , but doesn't mounting a plasma in a HUGE cabinet like that defeat the purpose of the clean lines and trim look you get from a plasma ?

Why not mount it on that wall behind the current unit and find a nice cabinet to place below/ infront of it. Your wife could still put her nick nacks and such on the cabinet .

Remind her how "open" and larger the room will feel with out the current cabinet there.

just my 2cents.

I realize your wifes opinion counts here

just my 2cents.


...and your 's sure as hell doesn't. :p

For gods sake, mount that plasma on the wall. Then chop about a foot off the legs of your old TV cabinet to lower it to credenza height, and put it right under the TV. Then add a shelf or two in the old cabinet shell for books and your wife can put junk on top.

Jon

Went to Costco and picked up the 5070 and the Peerless mount.

Got home, got all set up, took down the 4345, plugged in the 5070...nice!

Went to find the studs so I could mount the mount and...where are the studs?? In a niche space of 47 1/4" (inside to inside), there is only ONE stud at the halfway point, with 23+" to each side. HUH?!

So what to do? I've re-set up the 4345 and am prepared to take the 5070 and mount back to Costco tomorrow. I sat there looking at trying to figure out options, but without the mount, I have none.

Any bright ideas?

You could do several things.

1. Cut out some the sheetrock in the back of the niche and attach more studs in the wall.

2. Attach one or two 2 x 6 in the back of the niche to support the mount. One easy way to do this would be to use joist hangars.

3. Attach two 2 x 4s vertically in the back of the niche.

4. Forget the articulating mount and go with a flat mount, attach some 2 x 6s vertically or horizontally towards the front of the opening and attach the mount. I gave you this idea in a reply to another one of your posts.

5. Get a ceiling mount and attach it to the top of the niche.

You could do several things.

1. Cut out some the sheetrock in the back of the niche and attach more studs in the wall.

2. Attach one or two 2 x 6 in the back of the niche to support the mount. One easy way to do this would be to use joist hangars.

3. Attach two 2 x 4s vertically in the back of the niche.

4. Forget the articulating mount and go with a flat mount, attach some 2 x 6s vertically or horizontally towards the front of the opening and attach the mount. I gave you this idea in a reply to another one of your posts.

5. Get a ceiling mount and attach it to the top of the niche.
Thanks for the ideas...and, yeah, I'm aware of #4, but I'll have to check with my wife on that one.

Best one to me seems to be #2, attaching the 2 x 6's at the horizontally at the middle to upper-back of the niche, then screwing the mount into that/those.

Two questions on #2:
1. If I use joist hangers, I would need to nail them into the side-corner stud at the back corner of each side of the niche - that sound right? There are no studs in the middle of the niche sides. Additionally, where would the top tab of the joist hanger go? Is it OK just to nail them in without that tab overhanging something?
2. Would the 2 x 6's provide enough depth to screw the mount into?

Thanks for your thoughts...and prayers... :cool:

Best one to me seems to be #2, attaching the 2 x 6's at the horizontally at the middle to upper-back of the niche, then screwing the mount into that/those.

Two questions on #2:
1. If I use joist hangers, I would need to nail them into the side-corner stud at the back corner of each side of the niche - that sound right? There are no studs in the middle of the niche sides. Additionally, where would the top tab of the joist hanger go? Is it OK just to nail them in without that tab overhanging something?
2. Would the 2 x 6's provide enough depth to screw the mount into?

Furthermore on #2...now that I'm enthused again and noodling on it...

I'm thinking I'll take two 2 x 6's, each about 24" wide, and screw them into the left corner and the middle stud, using wood screws. Probably 3-4 screws on each side of each 2 x 6. And I'll stack them vertically, to provide 12" vertically of mounting surface. It will be on the left side of the rear of the niche, but that's OK because of the articulating adjustable arm.

Again, assuming I "mount" the 2 x 6's as noted above, I'm good to just screw the mounting plate into the 2 x 6's then...?

You could break or cut off the tab on top of the joist hangars, or find some without the tab on top. I thought that was wood on both sides of the inside of the niche, but since it's not, yeah you want to make sure to hit studs.

Your second reply about screwing the 2x6s into the side sounds good too, maybe even easier. Yes, you should be good to then screw the mounting plate into the 2x6's. Good luck and post some during and after pics of your install.

Your second reply about screwing the 2x6s into the side sounds good too, maybe even easier. Yes, you should be good to then screw the mounting plate into the 2x6's. Good luck and post some during and after pics of your install.
I was at Home Depot looking at some 2x6's and 2x8's, but didn't get them. They seem to "thin" to mount the mounting plate to. They are like 1 1/2" think, so I am concerned about that being too thin to mount the plate to.

Thoughts?

It would be a good idea to build up the thickness of the boards to be at least as deep as the mounting bolts. How about doubling the boards? You could even go to 2x4s which would make it easier. As long as you have them attached securely to the studs in the niche you should be fine. Easy way to mount the boards in the niche would be to attach one board with screws into the existing 2x4s, then screw another 2x4 on top of the one you just attached. Using 2x6s would give you more surface area to screw more bolts into the existing 2x4s if you'd like.

Think of it this way - if you were to mount it as a standard application to the 2x4s in the wall, that would be considered study enough, right?

So what if I try it this way:
1. Attach one 2x6 (47 1/4" long) by screwing it into the corner studs and center stud. Three sets of screws.
2. As this is too thin for the mount's mounting screws, add another 2x6 on top of the first one. Question: Can I simply "mount" the second 2x6 into/onto the first without having the second one screwed into the studs? I assume that would work because the mounting screws will go through the second 2x6 into the first 2x6, which is anchored into the studs.

Then mount the plate to the 2x6...

BTW, one 2x6 should be enough as that's wide enough for the mounting plate.

Sounds good to me!

Yep, you can screw the second one to the first, essentially making them one board. Also get some decent size lag bolts to screw the first 2x6 into the studs - something close in diameter to the mounting bolts should work. You may want to drill some pilot holes (holes a bit smaller than the bolts themselves) in the 2x6 first. This will help keep it from splitting, will make the bolts go in easier, and will help to keep them straight.

If you can, post some pics along the way up through the "Ta Da! WOW...Look at my new 5070!! And I mounted it on my own!!"

Well, after whipsawing back and forth on this, I am going to go for it. I was going to just return the 5070 after my wife got all pissed about the "mess" I'd make, etc., but I sweet-talked her into it...

I did return the Peerless mount I got at Costco and am going to order a Chief PDR 2000 series dual-arm mount as it just seems more adaptable and easier to install, albeit pricier...

I will definitely post progress pics as I get going.

Question: Should I use a 2x6 for the base layer, or a piece of plywood?

BTW, I've got a buddy who has a similiar problem with a DLP stuck into a niche, and I've sold him on going with a plasma on an articulated arm.

Plywood will be fine. You are just wanting to build up the wood so that it is at least as think as the mounting bolts.

Just finished the install and mounting. I think it's solid and looks good. That articulating arm gives you lots of options and ease of getting back there to do stuff.

Oh, BTW, I went with the Peerless mount because I could just run over to Costco Home and pick it up, vs. ordering and waiting for it.

And now, I get to watch the NCAA tourney on my 50"! :D

I'll post pics later - I'm too tired now...

Congrats! I bet you are relieved. Waiting for pics when you get a chance :)

OK, here are the pics from my mounting dilemma and the resultant project.

To reset, I had a 43" Pio plasma in the niche, but wanted bigger, specifically, a 50" Pio 5070. It wouldn't fit, so this thread helped me come up with the idea to mount it on an articulating arm; however, when I went to mount the arm, there was only one stud in the back of the niche. Again, this thread helped me learn that I needed to build it up first, attaching to the corners and the center stud, then mounting to that. The arm is a Peerless PLA50-UNLP-GB, purchased at Costco. I originally preferred a Chief PDR, but it was much pricier, was going to take a week to get here, and the base required a 24" footprint, which was bigger than I had planned on (but that's why it can hold 200 lbs.).

Anyways, the pics (BTW, if someone can tell me how to get the pictures to appear in the thread, instead of as attachments, please do)...
1. The niche
2. The base - a pine board about 47 1/2" x 1 1/8", mounted to the corner and center studs via #8 3" wood screws. I originally tried 3 1/2" #10's, but they were too hard to get in.
3. Built up with 2 36" 2 x 6 boards attached to the pine board by the same wood screws. I needed the build up for the mount's attachment bolts.

4. The wall mount base, secured by 3" lag bolts through the 2 x 6's and the pine base board.
5. With the articulating arm assembly mounted.
6. With the plasma mounted.

Here is the almost-final outcome. I say "almost" because I need to raise it a few inches. I had measured and measured, but the plasma turned out a bit low, so I'm going to pull it off and move the brackets so that the plasma raises a few inches (Note: This would be easier with the Chief PDR, which has a nice up-down adjustment).

I'm very pleased with it, and the way the plasma "floats." It's very easy to adjust and very easy to move out to get in and do stuff behind the whole setup.

The whole process was not as difficult as I anticipated. The hardest part was building up the base; installing the arm and plasma was easy. I thought it would be the other way around.

Thanks for everyone's help and comments.

Oh, I included a "before" shot so you can see the difference.

Nice Job Waltaz. Looks nice and clean. What does the wifey think now that you are almost done with the project? ;)

Nice Job Waltaz. Looks nice and clean. What does the wifey think now that you are almost done with the project? ;)
She was a trooper and tolerated the effort nicely. She needs to get used to the "floating" effect as she has always liked our TV's "in" something. Net net, we're still married... :D

Here is the almost-final outcome. I say "almost" because I need to raise it a few inches. I had measured and measured, but the plasma turned out a bit low, so I'm going to pull it off and move the brackets so that the plasma raises a few inches (Note: This would be easier with the Chief PDR, which has a nice up-down adjustment).
YUP, thats why I went with the CHIEF mount but after ya move it its all the same. I did the same thing....measure 500 times and I was still off also a few inches. This could be because you/I cant read a tape measure :D or more likely the mount areas are slightly different than we thought. good luck man and happy HD'ing.

Scott

Anyways, the pics (BTW, if someone can tell me how to get the pictures to appear in the thread, instead of as attachments, please do)...

You have to join some thing like PHOTOBUCKET...its free or click here (http://photobucket.com/) . After you do this and upload your pictures it will show you the picture with 3 different ways/links for them. I believe you use the bottom one and then copy and paste this into the type field for the post.

Excellent Waltaz! Glad to see that it came out so nice for you! Gotta be pretty gratifying knowing you did it yourself. Thanks for the pics through the process too. It should help give others confidence that they too can do something like this.

As for the pics, use photobucket.com like JS-44SDS advised. After uploading them all you need to do is click on the IMG code in photobucket, it will automatically copy the code to the clipboard for you, then you can paste that code into your post. If you want to test it, AVS has a post testing section just for that.

Congrats and enjoy your new floating 5070!