I'm looking to coat my bar top with some of the thick poly stuff I see in bars / restaurants. I've done a search, but it looks like they've either stopped making the Behr 50(?) that everyone has mentioned, or the typical places don't carry it anymore.

I've used a wood floor poly on my vanity in the bathroom that worked alright, but I'm looking for something thicker & tougher. Suggestions?

Thanks!

Back in college some friends built a bar in their apartment... they just painted the top with about 20 coats of polyurathane that you can get from Ace Hardware (they got the Ace brand I think). For a very smooth finish, you can lightly sand (fine grit) between coats. It turned out pretty cool (some people said it was over board, but that's what engineers do ;) )

http://www.bartopepoxy.com/

- Josh

We just started to work on our bar in the back of the theater. We are planning on putting a piece of 1/4" glass on top. Might save a few coats :)

I have not used it, but you might take a look at

Minwax High Build Polyurethane (http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/highbuild.cfm)

I have not used it, but you might take a look at

Minwax High Build Polyurethane (http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/highbuild.cfm)

Thanks! If you look at the bottom of the page, they have a link to Helmsman Exterior Grade (http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/helmsman.cfm) stuff. I picked some up tonight and it specifically calls out Bar Tops for uses. Perfect!

I liked the epoxy stuff, but it is a lot more than I want to pay right now. Hopefully this does the trick!

Cool! Post how it works.

Envirotex Lite (http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm)

This works great and can be found at your local craft store (Michaels, Ben Franklin Crafts, ect).

Its made for bartops and projects. "50 coats of varnish in one coat!"

Envirotex Lite (http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm)

This works great and can be found at your local craft store

I'm assuming you've used this yourself? Is it thick or thin upon application?

I'm currently using the Helmsman product for about 2 thin coats & 1 thick coat. Do you think this could be applied on top?

I've ran into an issue with the Helmsman. Although it provides a beautiful glossy finish, it is very thin. Since I have a wood floor bar top, it does not fill in the grooves, but runs inbetween them. Last night I took a small cup & poured it on which worked great until it started running between the boards, onto the sub-layer then inbetween the sublayer joint & onto the floor!! :mad: Glad I have Carpet Tile around the bar! With all of the glue & tight seams I had, there is no way I thought this would have happened - It just shows how thin the stuff is. I was going to try and find a way of filling in some of the grooves with epoxy before proceeding, but if Envirotex will work on top of my existing coats & is thick, I could just use it.

Yes, I have used this on my own bartop and I'm pretty happy with the results.

I'm not familiar with the Helmsman so I cannot make any comparisons to it. But by the way you describe it, it sounds as thick as standard polyurethane.

The Envirotex has the consistency of honey. So it pours on thick in my opinion, self levels and cures. Its a 2 part epoxy, so it must be used right away after its mixed. The only flaws in my application seem to be some dust that was in the air.

Heres a couple pictures of it on my bartop. Its difficult to get good pictures showing it, but in person it has a ton of gloss and the depth of perhaps a thin sheet of glass. I could have poured more, but I'm happy with the recommended application. It did a nice job of filling in a crack where two wood boards decided to come apart. I put some tape on the bottom side just in case it ran, but it didn't. It cures pretty fast, so I attribute that to the gap sealing abilities.

Please excuse the rest of my mess in the photos, its a work in progress! The bar sits behind my sofa and doubles as the second row of seating, which works out GREAT. Most people wanna sit at the bar instead of on the sofa where the audio/video is optimized!

The Envirotex has the consistency of honey. So it pours on thick in my opinion, self levels and cures. Its a 2 part epoxy, so it must be used right away after its mixed. The only flaws in my application seem to be some dust that was in the air.



Thick as honey - That is perfect! I'm definitely going to give it shot.

I'm sure it will say on the product, but how much coverage can you get with one package? My bar area is approximately 25 square-feet.

They have different sized packages. I'd just follow their guidelines for coverage and round up. Best to have more and a little thicker than not enough. Read the instructions on the website. I dont know about the craft stores near you, but around here in Pa. they always have 20% off coupons in the local sunday papers. Its not cheap, so I tried to get the best deal I could.

I'd think it would cover up previous coatings pretty well. Just be sure to clean it before starting and try to minimize the dust in the air. Anything that lands in it will stick and anything under it will stay forever. It will cover imperfections and make a very smooth as glass surface.

Good luck, let us know how it works for you!

I just looked at the pictures of your theater & bar. Very nice.

It appears the back of the bartop has a raised edge. Perfect for pouring a coating onto. You won't have any edge to worry about. The little gap between the flooring won't pose a problem. I'd put some paper down under it just in case tho. Get plenty of coating and do it all one shot.... I bet it will look like a million bucks!

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=31&

I used to make coffee tables out of hockey sticks when I worked at an ice rink. I would use this for the tops and they came out perfectly. When the two parts are mixed, it creates CO2 bubbles, but they pop by blowing on them (the CO2 in your breath caused them to pop) or by hitting them with a torch set to low (remember, its the CO2, not the heat that pops the bubbles.)

I just looked at the pictures of your theater & bar. Very nice.

It appears the back of the bartop has a raised edge. Perfect for pouring a coating onto. You won't have any edge to worry about. The little gap between the flooring won't pose a problem. I'd put some paper down under it just in case tho. Get plenty of coating and do it all one shot.... I bet it will look like a million bucks!

Thanks for the compliments.

I am frustrated! I had a weird feeling like something would go wrong & it did. Got everything all prepped, mixed & poured according to directions but it did not fully work out. Even though I followed the instructions and used a torch, I still have 3 large bubbles. I breathed on it and used the torch for a good 15-20 minutes, but they still formed later.

There are 'craters' between the size of 1 to 2 quarters in some areas. I saw these develop as I was pushing the liquid around with a thick piece of paper, but it just wouldn't cover those spots - almost as if the wood was rejecting the coating in small spots. Even though I had almost 1/8" all over the surface, these pits developed. I don't get it. I hate it, but it looks like the next step is to sand out the bubbles and put down another coat which bugs me because I don't want to spend more money on it.

For the other areas with no pits, this stuff did an excellent job. It is completely smooth, clear & looks wonderful. Wish it turned out that way all the way around!!

Argh.... I had tiny bubbles, but they all came out just by blowing on them. It sounds as if the surface wasn't clean in those spots. Like it either had a waxy or oily film on those spots? Could it be the coating on the prefinished flooring? Or maybe something that spilled on those spots during use. I hope the repair can successfully mask out the imperfections. :confused:

I had 3 coats of Helmsman Poly on it and it really has never been used. Before applying the Envirotex I sanded the top and cleaned it thoroughly with a damp rag using mineral spirits just like when I poly coat. I then wiped it down again with a damp rag to make sure it was free of the spirits & then let it dry thoroughly . The only thing I could think of if there was a hint of the mineral spirits left over.

This time I'm only going to sand out the bubbles and that will be all that I touch it.

Your preparation doesn't appear lacking. It is a strange anomaly tho.
I hope to see some pictures of happy results after the sanding & recoat.

Dr V

ALRIGHT, Finally done.

Here are pics of the 1st coat that went wrong.

I had about 3-4 large bubbles that formed long after I had poured the top:
http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/epoxybubble01.jpg

There were craters where the epoxy was rejected or repelled from the surface. It is about 1/8" thick surrounding the crater. These were all over the bar top:
http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/epoxycrater02.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/epoxycrater03.jpg

Here is the bar before:
http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/138.jpg

And here it is after the 2nd coat of epoxy:
http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/143.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/142.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/mneuner/141.jpg

It is glass thick & smooth all the way across. The second coat filled in all of the bubbles and craters and you can never tell they were there. However, in certain spots, when you look at it with the glare, you can see what looks like colorful oil rings. Not sure what is causing this. It should be fully set & useable here shortly and I will see if they can be wiped off. It's not real noticeable, you have to point it out, but it still annoys me b/c I know it's there.

That came out looking amazing!

Looks GREAT! Much better than those ridges from the planks.

After its good and cured, just clean the top with a mild cleaner and rag. I used some sort of orange based cleaner and it took 99% of those oil marks away.

Thanks guys!

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one to get those oil marks & that they can be removed. I'm relieved & finally relaxed with the results.

The Envirotex DOES look amazing.

Hmmm....I'm thinking DIY Shuffleboard table for next winter's project...

Great job! That looks amazing!!

I liked the epoxy stuff, but it is a lot more than I want to pay right now. Hopefully this does the trick!

Well, this is now funny. For the first coat I used 3/4 of a gallon at $80 from Michaels and then I paid another $54 for a 1/2 gallon of the second-fix coat. So overall it cost $134, and here I was trying to avoid the $104 cost of the Bartop Epoxy :rolleyes:

That's how it ALWAYS works!!!

Neuner,
You Bar top looks fantastic!

How did you apply the Envirotex to the bar rail and keep it from running down the side?

- Scott

How did you apply the Envirotex to the bar rail and keep it from running down the side?


I only applied Envirotex to the bar top (Wood Floor) area. I coated the rails & backside trim with Helmsman Glossy Polyurethane before pouring the Envirotex. You can't tell the two apart with exception to the thickness in coating.

Looks sharp!

The biggest problem I had when I was doing my bar top was that I had a hole cut out for my drip tray. I tried using tape to keep the epoxy from dripping off the edge but the tape was no match for the heavy mixture. If I had done it again I would have tacked some small trim in there to keep it from dripping. I used a heat gun (high powered hair dryer basically) to get the bubbles out and that worked great.

Just picked up the lumber to frame in my basement and add in an official home theater. I'm psyched!

Neuner - Did you decide to go with the Envirotex because you had the gaps between the floor slats to deal with?

I'm considering going with just a plywood veneer for my bartop, so I think the Helmsman product would probably be sufficient.

That was the initial reason. The Helmsman looks really good, and I plan on using it for the rest of the bar. If I had to cover a plywood top I would use the Envirotex again because it looks that good. I had problems, and still unsure of what caused them, but the second coat easily took care of it. The compliments & amazement I get from guests is unbelieveable. There's something about the 3/8" thick, glass-like-coat & finish that really makes it stand out.

The Envirotex DOES look amazing.

Hmmm....I'm thinking DIY Shuffleboard table for next winter's project...

To make the bar top shine even more I tried using a car wax. The top is now slick!! I slid a glass down most of the length of the bar. You almost don't even need the rubber sand to have a shuffleboard...

That was the initial reason. The Helmsman looks really good, and I plan on using it for the rest of the bar. If I had to cover a plywood top I would use the Envirotex again because it looks that good. I had problems, and still unsure of what caused them, but the second coat easily took care of it. The compliments & amazement I get from guests is unbelieveable. There's something about the 3/8" thick, glass-like-coat & finish that really makes it stand out.

Hmmm, you've got me leaning towards the Envirotex now too. I could use the leftover on my theatre back bar where I used wood flooring slats like you did. The only problem is that there is no raised edge on the front of that bar to keep the stuff from flowing over.

Tack some trim around it until it sets?

Or you can let it flow over, putting resin paper or cardboard on the floor to catch the excess.

But wouldn't that defeat the purpose of a thick pour?

Think pour? What's a think pour?

Edit: Ah-- it's a typo-- I even g00gled it and looked at wikipedia, thinking it was bar terminology with which I wasn't familiar. :)

Thick pour-- it'll still be thick, but will be slightly thinner at the edge. My wife has done painted table tops that way.

Yeah...it's bar terminology after many beers.... :)

A think pour is the beverage they serve in think tanks...it has nothing to do with Bar Tops. :D

This Envirotex sounds like some awesome stuff. If it's so thick, I'm guessing there's really no point to sanding the surface before application.

Very interesting occurance with the bar top.

We had new countertops put in the kitchen so we stored everything on the bar. We had troubles with the install so everything stayed up there for a while. In the instructions it states that heavy objects left on the epoxy coating will leave indentations, but if removed they will level out over time. This happened for several of the objects, however some of the mixing bowls left sharp deep scratches. I was ticked! As I was trying to figure out if there would be a way to get these removed, they gradually disappeared! The top 'healed' itself of these scratches or indents. I've seen stuff used similar to this at restaurants, etc, but they always had scratches in them, so I don't know at what point they become permanent.

So how durable is the surface to normal wear and tear?
I'd think this stuff would be hard like a rock...so how do the indentations form over time?

Placing a glass on it, or knocking it with your knuckles feels like your hitting a plastic laminate countertop, not granite, so it's hard but not 'rock' solid. The heavy bowls & pans were on the top for weeks. According to the instructions the top stays maleable(?) to prevent shattering.

Don't know about durability. I've tried to be careful with it since we will be selling the home by next spring otherwise I wouldn't bother. I want to keep it looking as nice as possible for potential buyers :) .

So how durable is the surface to normal wear and tear?
I'd think this stuff would be hard like a rock...so how do the indentations form over time?
As far as durability, we have a coffee table in our family room that has a painted top with the epoxy over it. After five years of my son beating on it with transformers and zero coaster use, if I look very closely, I can see some minor scuffs; otherwise, it looks as good as when it was poured.

Gotcha. Like I said earlier in the thread (months ago), I was considering this for a DIY shuffleboard table so I'm just curious how it would hold up. Thanks for the updates.

Getting ready to put the Envirotex on my bar top (hardwood flooring planks) over the next few days. Wish me luck!

Neuner (and any others) - Any additional tips on the application?

I recently sat a studio monitor on its back on my bar top to troubleshoot, and the philips heads left little tiny marks in the top. So I wouldn't treat it as ultra durable, but for most normal bar items you should be fine.

Good luck and post some pictures of your work!

Thanks, Vinc!

I know that Neuner used hardwood flooring planks for his bar top, but it looks like his were unfinished when he installed them. Did anyone else use prefinished hardwood flooring?

The reason I ask is that the Envirotex instructions (linked below) state that you have to sand pre-finished poly surfaces before application. I'm assuming that my pre-finished planks have poly, so I'm thinking I'll need to give a light sanding to the surface prior to applying the Envirotex. Just wondering if anyone else went down that road. Thanks.

Well, I went ahead and used the Envirotex lite on my bar top.

It didn't turn out so well.

My local AC Moore only had the 1/2 gallon size as the largest available, so I bought that and 2 additional 8 oz kits. This would cover approximately 24 square feet according to their instructions (my bar top surface is approximately 16 square feet, but I wanted a thick coat).

However, I'm sure that's not accounting for spillage and run off, of which I had plenty.

The envirotex is not quite as thick as described above. I would say it's about half as thick as honey. It runs much more readily, especially in 75 degree temps as I was using.

With my wood slat flooring as a bar top, it ran readily in between the slats, causing quite a bit of bubbling. I used a hair dryer to remove most of the bubbles but after an hour of using the hair dryer, I called it a night. When I checked it this morning, there were still some bubbles present where the envirotex had run in between the slats. I'm going to try to break those up and apply more envirotex to fill in.

I'm also going to have to fill in the gaps where it just ran between the slats too much. It's noticeably non-level in these areas and doesn't look like the "sheet of glass" that Neuner posted above.

I'll follow back up when I've applied another coat.

FYI - Here's my bar thread if anyone is interested, it has some new pics recently added.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=891879

Think maybe it was a bad batch of enviortex ? I have used that stuff in some of my habitat scenes for my bird carvings and it does have a shelf life. Maybe that is what happened?

Did you scuff sand your prefinished bar top before you applied it?

Think maybe it was a bad batch of enviortex ? I have used that stuff in some of my habitat scenes for my bird carvings and it does have a shelf life. Maybe that is what happened?

That's possible. The AC Moore where I purchased it only had the one half-gallon kit left so there's no telling how long it had been sitting there. I did use 3 different kits though, so there's really no telling.

It was just a lot more runny than I had expected it to be. After it had "set up" a little in the bucket I was using, it was much more honey-like. So, maybe I applied it too fast, although the instructions explicitly stated to apply it immediately after mixing.

Did you scuff sand your prefinished bar top before you applied it?

No, I didn't. I was afraid the scuff marks would show up through the coating. That's why I posted that question a few posts above because I was on the fence on whether to do that or not. I finally opted against it. I don't think it had much affect though, the enviro seemed to cover everything fine...unless it made it run off faster.

Oh yeah, one other thing. I alluded to run off in my post above but didn't go into detail. There was a LOT of run off. I had no idea there were so many gaps in my countertop but the envirotex found every one. Good thing I put paper down everywhere before hand or I would have had a terrible mess.

Also, FWIW, here's what I paid for the envirotex at AC Moore if any one is curious:

1/2 gallon kit - Regularly $57.99 - I had a 40% off coupon so I paid $34.79.
8 oz kit - Regularly $18.99 - After 40% off I paid $22.78 for two kits.
Total of $57.57 so far. I'll need at least one more 8oz kit, so my final total will be around $68.96, not including sales tax. That's not too bad I guess.

Not bad at all. Are you going to delay the application and let it set up longer before you pour next time?

I don't think so. I hopefully won't be applying very much (just to fill in the gaps and/or bubbles) and it won't have any where to run (ha ha) this go around.

I hope you are taking some pictures of the pour!

I didn't take any of the actual process (I was too busy juggling the brushes and blow drying all the bubbles), but I plan to take some before I put on the second coat.

Even in it's unfinished state, it already looks better than the exposed planks did though.

Well as soon as you figure out all the pitfalls while doing the R&D on the planks, I'll begin my application. :) I have applied filler in my plank cracks so it may not be too messy for me.

Hey - Considering all the R&D your bar thread saved me on my bar build, it's the least I can do. :D

Okay, Irmo.....you have had a week now...where are the results (pics) !

I'm subscribed to my own thread, but AVS is selective about when it notifies me of posts. This sucks, wish I could have helped you sooner.

Do Not Use a Hairdryer!! It is CO2 that makes the bubbles disappear, not heat which may be most of your installation problem. You can blow on it, but you will definitely get dizzy real quick :). I used a blow torch and held it about a foot or more away from the surface. The bubbles popped instantly. Even where you couldn't see the bubbles, they rose to the top and popped.

My mix was a lot thicker than yours. Maybe you did have a bad batch & it didn't mix right. In the individual bottles it was thin, but once I mixed it, it became hard to stir.

The wood flooring planks I used were pre-finished, but I also had a couple coats of helmsman poly finish on top of it. I didn't sand either one of them.

In the middle of this thread you can see where I had large bubbles also from the Envirotex running between the boards. Thankfully they were at the surface so I just popped them, sanded them down slightly to get rid of the rough edge of the bubble then repoured. You can't tell they're there anymore.

I really hope yours turns out. Hate to see you have so much trouble!

Heynow - Cut me some slack, I haven't been able to get onto AVS in awhile! :) (work/travel related stuff, nothing serious) Pics are on the way soon though...

Neuner - Thanks for the post. I put another coat of Envirotex on this week, well actually 2 more coats to be technical. I had the areas where the coating had "sunk" into the gaps between the planks making a noticeable gap in about 4 areas overall. Plus, I had the bubbles I mentioned that I wanted to remove or at least make less noticeable.

So, I bought a pint-sized package of envirotex and went to work Monday night. First I scraped out the bubbles and sanded them. They looked terrible after the sanding but I wiped them down and cleaned them to where the scratches were only so noticeable. Then I mixed the pint sized envirotex and poured it onto the holes and the low/sunken areas described above, thinking it would "self-level" out by the next morning. I blew on the bubbles created and you're right, it worked much better than the hair dryer (I did get really dizzy though) and they all came out. I left the envirotex to level out and turned it in for the night.

Problem was, the envirotex didn't level out! Where I had applied it, there were OBVIOUS raised sections (like little hills or plateaus) all over the place. They weren't noticeable when looked upon dead-on, but at angle they were obvious as all heck. So back to AC Moore for more Envirotex I went.

This time I didn't mess around and bought the largest size they carried (half gallon for $58.99 - only $34+ after my 40% discount though) and I put a whole new coat over the entire bar area, being careful to spread it around with a foam brush to make sure everything got covered. If I thought I got dizzy the previous night by blowing on those 4+ areas to get the bubbles out, I nearly passed out this go around. But, in the end I managed to get all the bubbles out, made sure that there was uniform coverage by pushing the stuff around with the foam brush and I let it settle out for the night.

The next morning it looked great! There are *still* a few areas that are *slightly* wavy looking on from an angle, but I'm certain I'm the only one that will notice these. As you said previously Neuner, it was almost like the surface just "rejected" the envirotex in these areas, and no amount of pushing and prodding with a foam brush helps. But these are minor and I doubt will even show up in the pictures I take and post.

Anyway, that wraps up my ordeal with the envirotex...hopefully that helps someone when they try it next. Speaking of, Randy/Heynow...you're next! :D

Need updates. Anyone else giving this a shot?

What happened to the shuffleboard table?

Unfortunately my shuffleboard plans have been shelved and replaced by a major remodeling project...hopefully I'll get going on it by new years, if I'm not broke or institutionalized by then. ;)

Need updates. Anyone else giving this a shot?

What happened to the shuffleboard table?

I would love to give this a go. Any chance you could post up some dimensions. I looked but I didn't find any. I'm planning on a 45x45x45 design as well.

thanks

WOW... got to say it again. That epoxy looks amazing!

Neuner/Irmo,

Have you noticed any hazing of the surface from wear? I noticed my poly has some wear in certain areas.

No hazing for me, but it really picks up fingerprints. I haven't tried the wax method that somebody else posted about, I'm sure that would really polish up the surface...

I haven't gotten any hazing. It's still as glassy & shiny as the day it was installed. I did the waxing of the top & it makes cleanup a little easier. You also have to watch glasses & the slickness. I slid a pint all the way down the bar with little effort!

The only problem that has occurred is that the wood floor bar top planks have warped slightly and turned up some edges. It's not bad & barely noticeable, but it then formed little waves or ridges in the epoxy top. I poured the top not too long after the wood planks were installed, so it is most likely due to an installation problem. I should have let them acclimate to the basement temp & humidity longer.

The bar is done & now it is time to sell it... We are selling our house now that the basement is finished. :( I'm busy at work and we're running around with our hair on fire trying to get the house ready to be put on the market. I'll try & remember to get dimensions tonight.



Anyone interested in moving to St. Louis? FSBO...

Wow, that must really be tough to part with your creation so soon after getting it together...

Hope your next residence has an area you can finish in a bar so we can see "Coat Wood Bar top" the sequel. :)

I coated my bar top with Envirotex Lite and although it looks great, I'm concerned about the strength and durability. I applied it about 10 days ago and love the look, however when testing the surface, I can take my fingernail and scratch it with little effort. I know the mix was correct (1:1 of each) but didn't know if it was put on too thin. I've been hesitant on using it because of this issue. How thick should it be over the bar top itself? I applied it based on the directions, but it just looks thin.

If I apply a second coat, can I just pour it over the existing coated top, or do I need to do any sanding first? One thing's for sure, you can't beat the look of the envirotex lite. It's amazing. Thanks!

Jeff

I think the instructions call for a light sanding prior to additional coats. If anything, just default to the instructions in the package. They're quite detailed.

And, share some pics!

Wow, that must really be tough to part with your creation so soon after getting it together...

Hope your next residence has an area you can finish in a bar so we can see "Coat Wood Bar top" the sequel. :)

Oh man. I don't even want to think about it. 3 years & 3 kids later it's finally done. To have to start all over again is dis-heartening especially now that I want to spend all of my time with my family. A sequel would be interesting though... After a short rest period I'll get the itch b/c I'm not one to sit still.


I poured a second coat right over the first with no problems. Both coats together is about 1/8th of an inch thick if not slightly more. I can't scratch mine with my fingernail, in fact, I was having troubles sanding the bubbles out from the first pour because it was so hard. Sounds like something weird is going on.

I think two of you have had issues which makes me wonder if this stuff isn't used enough & it sits on the shelves at stores. I threw away the directions, is there a shelf life to this stuff?

Yes, there is a shelf-life...but if you buy it from a store like Hobby Lobby or Michael's, I doubt it will come into play...

Mine is too hard to scratch with a fingernail though.

I would love to give this a go. Any chance you could post up some dimensions. I looked but I didn't find any. I'm planning on a 45x45x45 design as well.

thanks

Quick rough measurements:

Along the front base of the bar it's broken up into three 45-45-45 sections which measure, 6'-6", 4'-6" and 2'-4".

The bar top wood flooring area not including the little bit under the bar rail is 1'-6" wide. The entire bar top is 1'-11" wide.

From the front face of the bar base to the outer edge of the bar rail there is a 1'-0" overhang. No one has bumped their knees on the face yet. The back edge overhang is 1.25".

The cabinet/sink area countertop runs 3'-2" along the wall.

From the floor to the top of the bar it's about 42-43".

The soffit follows the contour of the bar base not the top.

Not sure if my pictures show it, but the base is constructed of double wall 2x4 framing which are set approximately 2" apart.

I need to add pictures showing everything complete (except the shower surround :o)

pictures and a blue print please :)

lol

Blueprints after it's built, not before. Guess it turned out alright for 'winging' it.

Here's to winging it, too...

nuener... are you a wood worker by trade? just wondering cause that looks pofessionally done.

I'm kinda hesitant to try to build myself.

just seen the new pics you put up and the lighting in them really brings out the finish. What kind of wood did you use for the wall? just a typical plywood??? What color stain is that??? looks very natural from the pics...

I'm not a carpenter. That was my first project working with wood. Everything I did on my basement was my first time. Glad to hear it looks professional!

It's just a birch finished plywood. Natural wood with a semi-gloss poly on it. The poly riches up the wood nicely.

Hey Neuner,
I just came across this thread and your bartop looks great. I just had a tree cut down that I'm having processed into a one piece bartop. My intentions are to clear coat exactly the way yours is done. I want it thick and smooth. My question to you is about your bar rail, I'm guessing you brushed the clear coat on, how many coats do you have on it?

That sounds like a really cool idea. I coated the bar rail with 3 coats of a regular polyurethane. The only part that has the envirotex is the actual wood plank bar top. I installed a trim piece on the back which provides a 1/8" lip. The lip and bar rail kept the envirotex from running over and it worked out great.

I would make sure you have your bar top appropriately dried out before you even install it. During the process are they going to dry it for you? Even if they do, I would let it acclimate to the humidity and temperature of the bar area for a while.

Can't wait for the results!

The tree just came down a week ago and was cut into logs a couple of days ago. My plan is to let it set for a while as a log then let the mill cut it and dry it. I'm still learning about this processing, it's my first attempt at theater/bar/bartop. Since drywall just finished in my basement i've got some time before I actually need it so I hope it will cure out.

If you get the mill to kiln dry it, that should do it for the moisture. Still, you'll probably want to let it set for a bit in your bar area to acclimate to the humidity there before you start applying envirotex or poly.

Good luck!

I would think that a piece of wood that size would need a year or two to dry out on it's own. There is also a stong possibilty of splitting and cracking.

I would think that a piece of wood that size would need a year or two to dry out on it's own. There is also a stong possibilty of splitting and cracking.

Yes I thought about that. I might call the mill to get their take on the drying. The last thing I want is to spend the time and money on this just to have it bend, twist or crack. If I need to let the log set for a couple of years before cutting it I can do that. I can put up something temporary in the event I feel the need for a cold one. :D

This is another product , very similar to EnviroTex .
Swing Paint has a website with a forum discussion on the many issues that might arise when using the product ( i'm sure that this could apply to EnviroTex too)
http://www.swingpaints.com/1555.htm

several of you guys mentioned you received discounts , coupons etc. for the Envirotex . How ? Could you help a guy out , down on his luck - LOL :D

I bought my envirotex at a local AC Moore, a national crafts-store chain (similar to "Michael's"). They have 40% off coupons readily available in Sunday circulars, and also have an email list you can join where they will mail you a coupon once a week. I believe they also accept Michael's 40% off coupons as well.

That sounds like a really cool idea. I coated the bar rail with 3 coats of a regular polyurethane. The only part that has the envirotex is the actual wood plank bar top. I installed a trim piece on the back which provides a 1/8" lip. The lip and bar rail kept the envirotex from running over and it worked out great.

I would make sure you have your bar top appropriately dried out before you even install it. During the process are they going to dry it for you? Even if they do, I would let it acclimate to the humidity and temperature of the bar area for a while.

Can't wait for the results!

Thought I would show some results. Here's one of the logs before cutting
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/crossroads_04/Bartop3.jpg
Here's the same log during the cut process
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/crossroads_04/Bartop4.jpg
And here's the finish product. I have 6, 14' long x 14" wide x 2" thick peices to work with.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/crossroads_04/3-15-2008115.jpg

It's going to take several months for it dry out so once I get more progress I'll show more pictures.

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg188/rniehoff/avs003.jpg

I bought my envirotex at a local AC Moore, a national crafts-store chain (similar to "Michael's"). They have 40% off coupons readily available in Sunday circulars, and also have an email list you can join where they will mail you a coupon once a week. I believe they also accept Michael's 40% off coupons as well.

Exactly what I did @ Michael's....

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg188/rniehoff/avs003.jpg

What size boxes , please

Probably the biggest one available...I think it's a gallon size.

The cartons shown what kind of SF you can get from each though.

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg188/rniehoff/avs003.jpg

Looks Great!
Acouple of questions for you and Neuner;

Did you let the wood acclimate like Neuner suggested?

How did you attach the wood planks to the base underneath? (glue, nails?)

Where did you get the bar rail from, and what type of wood is it?

I know what Neuner used on his rail. How about you?

Thanks,
Hutch

I also used the epoxy. It was a 2 part and our bar is 12 ft. we used 4 boxes and it was about $20. a box. It was much easier than I thought. Here's a picture and more on Bar and Game room complete!!!


That turned out really nice!

I glued mine down. I was unsure of nailing it since I didn't know if it might give over time. I wanted to make sure it was secure. I'm wishing that I had also let the wood planks acclimate for some time as well. They have since very slightly curled and formed minor ridges on the top. It still looks really good, but it's not quite the glass smooth that it originally started out with.

Neuner - The planks still curled up even under the Envirotex?

Irmo,

Remember the environtex remains flexible, so I would think it would follow the drying and humidity of the wood.

Yeah, but I figured it would "seal" the wood and keep it from being exposed to the air that would dry it out. Maybe it's drying out from underneath.

Yep, still curled. It has to be from underneath.

Sorry to hear it.

I'd imagine another coat of enviro on top might level it off and provide enough "cushion" between the surface of the enviro and where the planks are in order to forestall any future curling. It's probably one of those things that only you would notice though, I'm sure it still looks great.

We're in the process of selling our home and all of the potential buyers gape at how good it looks so I'm not worried. Even if we were to stay I'd leave it as is b/c it's nothing bad. It actually gives some appeal like I put on 5,000 coats of polyurethane which wouldn't have been even.

tips for using EnviroTex ( from the website)

Nice job on the bar and bar top. Did you cut the cove moldings on the front of the bar yourself or buy them stock? I'm considering doing a bar later but was unsure how to do the complicated moldings on the front. I may just wimp out and finish it with a simple bull-nose.

Nice job on the bar and bar top. Did you cut the cove moldings on the front of the bar yourself or buy them stock? I'm considering doing a bar later but was unsure how to do the complicated moldings on the front. I may just wimp out and finish it with a simple bull-nose.

You can buy the moldings at some of the lumber yards (not HD or Lowes). You can also get it at Rockler.

Kyess

Nice job on the bar and bar top. Did you cut the cove moldings on the front of the bar yourself or buy them stock? I'm considering doing a bar later but was unsure how to do the complicated moldings on the front. I may just wimp out and finish it with a simple bull-nose.

Sorry, I didn't see your post. AVSforum failed to notify me. I bought the bar rail (top edge piece, elbow rest) stock from McDaniels Hardwood out of Virginia. I'd contact them or look around at some local shops. They might have a different name to them so you'll have to be creative in your search. One of the better ones around St. Louis is called St. Charles Hardwood. They have just about any type of molding or shape you could want.

Here is McDaniels new web page. http://www.mcdanielhrdwds.com/

They now show pics and sizes of their products. BTW they are in the eastern panhandle of West Virginia... I think Dick Cheney has some relatives there.

Ah, yes. That is them. WEST Virginia - thought I had it wrong. They are excellent to work with, honest and treat you very well.

There is a really cool product out there called "Bio-810". It is an epoxy rthat gives a near glass like finish and is impervious to everything except fire and steelwool.

Quick question about Envirotex pour. I have a small gap between where the bar rail and bar top meet. Is there something I should use to fill that tiny gap before pouring?

I'd probably put something in that gap. Otherwise the Envirotex will try to go in the gap. Remember, It is about as thick as honey when ready to pour. Maybe you can use wood putty, or a clear glue of some sort to fill in the gap? If the gap is REALLY tiny, then it may not matter much. The Envirotex may setup before it gets too far, but if it does, look where will it go? I'd rather not take that chance.

Dr V

I sealed my bar rail/top gap with brown silicone. During my pour I sealed my other gaps under the bar with DUCT tape....yep, duct tape. If you have access under the bar it works great. Pull it off after it's set up. You can also use it as a Dam to hold the Etex on the edges until it sets.

I had thought about the silicone but I was affraid the Envirotex might not adhere to it properly. I've went ahead and put stainable wood filler in there which will probably do the trick.

Yes, I agree, I worried about that also. However, the Etex is like peanut brittle, it sticks to everything very well.

One more Envirotex question. I'll be using Envirotex to coat the bar top in my new basement theater. The bar has an arm rail on one side, but nothing to hold the Envirotex on top of the bar on the other side. It's somewhat similar to the pictures rniehoff posted above. What has everyone used to hold the Envirotex in place (like a dam) until it sets up? I saw HeyNow mention duct tape -- are there any other options? If duct tape is my choice, does the Etex stick to the tape when you try to remove it?

I'm a long time lurker -- first time poster. Thanks to all of you over the past several years as I've gathered invaluable information for my basement build. Carpet is coming later this week and I'm finally starting to feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

Since I used a wood plank top I needed a way to finish the back side of the bar so I trimmed a piece of wood so that it hooked up & over the top of the bar by about 1/8". I routed the back side of the board to give it a smooth rounded finish. You can sort of see it in this photo of the top before the Envirotex was poured. If you have a tray as your finish you can do something similar but your trim wouldn't be as tall.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x130/Nevnor/BacksidetrimofBar.jpg

Thanks Neuner.

I have a round wooden table that I would like to decorate with coins and bills and then put a thick poly coating over all. Have any of you done the Envirotec over something as thick as a coin? I'm a complete newbie and could use any advice. Thanks!

Since the valleys, grooves and imperfections of a natural wood plank floor is of or greater than the thickness of coins, then I would say yes.

I would try to attach the coins to the top first so they don't move during the coating process.

I have a round wooden table that I would like to decorate with coins and bills and then put a thick poly coating over all. Have any of you done the Envirotec over something as thick as a coin? I'm a complete newbie and could use any advice. Thanks!

Yes it will work, as you'll see in the picture below the molding I did on top of the cigar box was as thick as a quarter, it works no problem plus you can add additional coats as well. I also have done some with pictures and playing cards that also worked with no problem. You can get it up to a 1/4" thick at a time.

http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/ss62/CopperPub/bar047.jpg

Thanks! Also, the wood looks like it's painted in some places and maybe stained in other places. Would I need to do any prep before coating?

I saw someone also posted this question a while back, but not many responded. I am using a very similar product I purchased at lowes - Famowood. I have noticed that it is easily scratched, even with my fingernail. Has anyone noticed this with their products? Is it fixable?

Envirotex is hard stuff...it would take more than a fingernail to scratch it.

Well, I poured my 1/2 gallon kit of envirotex last night and it turned out great...except...on spot (about a 2" circle). The etex seemed to have trouble adhearing to the wood initiall and cured a little clumpy.

So now I turn to you Envirotex GURUS...

If I mix a small amount of e-tex, can i (carefully) pur it in this spot to fill in the small valleys/ridges? If i do so, will it still look seamless or will it look like a clump of e-tex cured under the rest of my e-tex?

I will post pictures tonight when I get home from work.


PLEASE HELP E-TEX GURUS!

Your best bet would be to pour another thin coat on the entire top.

HeyNow, I should have my bartop back in a couple weeks ready to install and do the epoxy pour. I was wondering about knots, cracks or blemishes in the wood, did you have to do anything with those before you did your pour? Seems like I read somewhere these kinds of things should be filled in with clear glue or something so the epoxy does not run thru and to keep from getting air bubbles.

You may want to use a wood filler and spread it on the top to fill in any openings. Light sanding, done. I am not sure I remember what your top is made from but you would certainly want as smooth of a surface you can get. The finished result will only be as good as your prep. I'm sounding like Norm.

HeyNow, I should have my bartop back in a couple weeks ready to install and do the epoxy pour. I was wondering about knots, cracks or blemishes in the wood, did you have to do anything with those before you did your pour? Seems like I read somewhere these kinds of things should be filled in with clear glue or something so the epoxy does not run thru and to keep from getting air bubbles.

Have you completed your pour? You got pics?

From the original postings, mine definitely was not smooth and I had gaps between the wood flooring planks and the Epoxy came out as smooth and flat as glass. The only holes I filled were the gaps between the mdf sub-board where the epoxy would leak onto the floor.

Still not done. The guy that was going to put everything together back in late May got overwhelmed doing another job and didn't call me back. When I finally called him he said it would be towards the end of summer before he would be able to get to it. I've found a couple other people that can do it but have been to busy to mess with it. About the only thing happening in my basement is Call of Duty, my son is addicted. This fall I will get started on it and finally get it complete, I will take lots of pictures during the process.

I definitely didn't have a "smooth" top...heck, I had gaps between each of my flooring planks...and other than a lot of etex running out between those gaps, it came out looking smooth and great. Expect more than one pour though. :)

Fill the gaps girls! Wood filler is a must. IUSteve just poured and he lives in IndianaIllinoisapolis....or where ever..he's the state expert..

OK, I am getting ready to do this. I have a bar top made of 3/4" thick Maple flooring that has been attached with a floor nailer. We have a depressed drip tray at the back of hte bar and I was wondering how that would work with the coating. Will it all run in there or will it stay on the top also?

My wife also did not want the curved bar rail, so I am just doing a piece of Maple 1x trim on the front I will probably do the helmsman on that and install it a little high, then pour against that.

I also bought some of the Famowood product at lowes and after seeing the post above, it makes me wonder if I should try Etex instead. I figured it was the same type of stuff as the box says 50 coats in one coat or something, similar to the label on the other products.

I am assuming that those of you who had the stuff overflow, you used newspaper to cover the floor and other surfaces?

We will ait a few weeks as well to keep warpage after it is put down to a minimum.


Here are a couple of pics. I will probably paint the tray black prior to doing this and of course install the trim all the way around.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/Bar02.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/Bar04.jpg

If you use newspaper it will soak right through it! Use plastic. You can also use duct tape and wrap it around the bar like a dam so you don't get any run off. Wait until it sets up a bit and peel the tape off.

If that were my bar, I would put a very thin piece of trim on the backside of the bar top that stuck above the finish surface about an 1/8". Sortof thickness as a paint stirring stick. You should finish the front edge as well and again, install the trim piece slightly above the finish surface then you don't need to worry about run off.

I used newspaper and didn't have any problems with it going through. It's pretty thick stuff although thin painters plastic sheets is so cheap, you should use it instead.

Did you let the wood acclimate to the ambient conditions before installing it?

I was thinking about maybe putting something against the back like that. I can always rip a little off the very back piece of wood to give myself room in the tray for the rubber drain pieces. I just (and my wife especially) like the clean look of nothing at the back. If it will not be possible to pour the finish without it I will definitel;y do that then. I have some leftowver mapple that I can rip down to make that work I think.

The wood was acclimated for 3 or 4 days upstairs before I installed it.

Now that you guys mention it, I will probably put down plastic with newspaper on top to kind of absorb the excess.

Any other thoughts on teh Famowood top coating rather than the Envirotex? I looked at the box and it says 60 coats in one application. The reports of it being soft worry me some, but then again, some have reported that with etex also.


Neuner, to make sure I am following, you are saying I should install a pice at the back of the actual bar top, but before the tray like this?:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/BarEdge.jpg



I was originally going to just do this:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/BarEdgeoriginal.jpg

Lee,

Do you really think you need that depth in the drip tray? You ARE going to fill that awesome looking top before you pour anything, right? I can see the bubbles perculating up now if you don't.

If anyone reports soft e-tex then I think it's because they didn't mix it well enough before application. Mine felt like a Formica countertop when I was done and with the same durability except impressions from heavy objects over time.

I don't think you let the wood acclimate to the humidity and temperature of the room long enough. I'd wait a while.

I suggest only filling the larger gaps that are between the planks. I filled mine with clear caulk and you can't tell from a visual inspection. The e-tex was thick enough that it didn't flow down between the planks that were pretty well butt-jointed. I wouldn't use wood-filler. If the boards warp or bend a little bit then that stuff will crack. It doesn't take but a small-fraction of movement for this to occur. Also wood-filler doesn't finish as well and I think it will be obvious to you in the end. I wood-filled between the boards on my bathroom vanity top and wish I hadn't. I sanded it down, corrected it and re-finished. Wished I had used the clear sealant the first time.

I plan on waiting a while before doing the actual top pour, to allow it to acclimate and dry out more. Probably another couple of weeks at least.

As far as gaps, that last piece you see from the side view is just there loosely now. I have not sanded the back edge or put any finish there at all, I only put it there for the picture and to put down a line to guide painting the tray black. The rest of the top is pretty darn tight. I had to tap it all pretty liberally to get the pieces to interlock fully.

I do plan on putting some light colored putty in where the two angles meet. I just could not get them all perfect and it bothers me even if the gap is probably only 1/32. No one else has even noticed unless I pointed them out, but you know how it is when you build something. The rest of the bar is all painted semi gloss black, which let me tell you, hides a multitude of sins. :) It is good to know that caulk will not cause problems for the dar top finish. I might even use some light caulk for the corners.

Thanks for the complements on the wood. It is one box of 2 1/4 maple that I got from Lumber Liquidators for like $60. Since this room is mostly for watching sports (we put in 3 TVs each with a DirecTV box) my wife's idea was to have it look like a Basketball court floor. I could not find any Engineered flooring that was 2 1/4 wide and the 3 and 4 inch stuff just did not look right at that scale. Since I had to go with 3/4" it kind of dictated the height of the tray. I guess I could put in another thin piece of plywood there to raise it some. I'll have to think about that. We have gone through several thoughts on finishing it, ranging from painting a line down it like it was cut from the side of the lane or something to putting some stickers down with logos of our favorite teams before putting the finish on, but I think we have settled on leaving it plain. It looks too nice.


I talked to me wife about the edge again last night and she really is dead set against it, unless you guys think I will not be able to get a good look iwhtout it.

I have done two of these tables, both using the side of cardboard 6 pack holders from various beers. The first one was a coffee table insert, around 2' x 4'. I used the epoxy available at Michaels or Home Depot, which worked well but was very expensive.

The second table was a 3 1/2' x 8' beer pong table I made as a gift. For this one I used "EPOXY Kleer Koat #30" from a company called US composites (first post, can't post URL). This product also worked very well and was much cheaper. I used 4 gallons and it wasn't quite enough; there were some areas in the center where the epoxy wasn't quite flush with the top of the trim. I also used a small propane torch to get rid of bubbles... sweeping it over the surface of the epoxy as it dried really helped pull the bubbles to the surface and left a smooth, clear shine. It came out really nice and has held up through many parties since.

Now in the process of creating a third table, this time using bottle caps... should be done in a few weeks, will post pics if I remember.

Now that a bunch of you guys have had the envirotex on your bar for awhile, have there been any issues? Yellowing or cracking? Scratches or issues with heat (coffee mug)?

Anyone have experience with Crystal Sheen or Ultra Glo?

No issues with mine. Still looks as good as new. Love it and get compliments on it all the time.

Fill the gaps girls! Wood filler is a must. IUSteve just poured and he lives in IndianaIllinoisapolis....or where ever..he's the state expert..

This my friend is funny stuff.....that said whether you remember where I live is irrelevant but the fact you remember me is more important. My advice is simple. 1) Use some sort of trim to create a lip both on your bar top as well as your drip rail area. I used a simple oak corner trim that is basically an "L". The reason I say this is simply because it gives your bar a more "finished" look and it also creates a barrier for the envirotex. 2) Definately plan multiple pours. This stuff can be a handful to work with when your doing a larger pour such as that top and you DONT want to screw it up TRUST me!! I poured my drip rail area first to get the hang of it since it was a smaller area then did my bar top seperate. 3) Make sure you have a helper to help with the mixing process because your attention should be directed toward popping all those bubbles........which brings me to my last point. 4)Fill those gaps!!! Any and all gaps will create MAJOR bubbles which you can pop with a propane torch but take it from me they will keep returning and thats where problems occur. As this stuff starts to set up theres a certain time where it doesnt particulrly appreciate the heat from the propane and thats where I ran into issues. Hence the reason you need to work relatively fast and keep the bubbles to a minimum. Hope this all helps and its just my 2 cents

4)Fill those gaps!!! Any and all gaps will create MAJOR bubbles which you can pop with a propane torch but take it from me they will keep returning and thats where problems occur.

I'm still not getting where you guys recommend filling the gaps. I filled the large ones I had, ~1/8", which originally caused it to run down between the MDF sub layer, but other than that, if I had filled in all of the gaps, the wood floor planks would have looked stupid. This would have taken away from the characteristics of a wood floor. I only had two large bubbles from the first pour due to not using the torch as much as I should have and those are shown in some of the first photos of this thread. These were easily popped and filled in during the second pour and you could not see any evidence even at very close inspection that they existed at one time. I agree with having an edge to pour up against but mine turned out beautifully without having filled in the gaps. If/When I do it again I'm not filling in the gaps.

Super long post alert: ;)

OK, I did mine this past Sunday. Overall, the finish is hard and beautiful. I did have a couple of issues where the coating was able to wick down into the gaps between the boards (no bubbles, but it is now low in that spot). One that I knew was a touch too wide and a couple of other small ones that I would never have guessed. Because of this, I am going to do a second run on top, which should fix it 100% .


I used the Famowood product from Lowes, but I really have to wonder just how much difference there is between products. Heck, they could all be made by one or two companies who puts them in different boxes for all I know.

I also found a few videos on youtube showing it. Here is one from a differnt product with different mix ratio than most, but it gives a good idea on what the process entails and how the product will move. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyeJtpyX16c

I did follow the directions on mixing for my product carefully and I used two seperate measuring and two mixing buckets. First, I measured it out, then combined the two parts in one. After half the total mixing time, I poured the contents into a new bucket for the last part of mixing. This makes sure that there is less potential for unmixed material from the outer side of the container getting poured into your top.

Also, I found that as I tried to pour a few last bits into areas that needed it, such as the joints and a couple of spots where some brush bristles came off (defnitely use foam brushes for this) and we pulled them out, but left a void that the material in the bucket had gotten ahead of what had been poured out so you can just make out some places where this happened. Again, I expect this to all be fixed with another quick pour. Best thing might be to pour some extra out into a seperate container so it can be shallow and not have the mass of what is left in the pot to get so much heat going. Use this extra for any touch ups.

I used a propane torch and that was great for popping bubbles. It really worked well to have my wife help me by looking at a low angle in the opposite direction. She was able to see bubbles that I could not while actually using the torch.

As far as the joints, I did caulk the tray all around as well as up against the wall and where the front trim board meets the main top. I used Lexel clear elastomeric because I was still too afraid to use silicone. I filled any butt joints where I cut the flooring at an angle with light putty and this looked great. I did not fill the normal joints where the toungue and groove stayed intact. I agree that filling everything using prefinished boards had too much potential to not look great.

The directions did say that if you had some gaps, to mix up 1/4 of what you would normally need and use that to spread around very thinly to seal the top, then recoat in about 5 hours. I would recommend doing this for a floor plank bar instead of two big pours.

I cleaned it all really good with windex, then I did lightly sand everything with 600 grit wet sandpaper (you could really only barely see it do anything), vacuumed it ,then used denatured alcohol for a final clean. I really made sure to get any residue off and had to get down to look at an angle to really see it. I then followed with another quick alcohol wipedown just prior to mixing.

We decided to just have it run off the edge and not do a raised adge anywhere (actually my wife reacted violently to my proposal above to put a piece on teh back and raise the front. ;) )It would have been easier to have an edge to pour to, but it certainly was not overly hard to do it with no edge either. There is some minor drip lines on teh front visible in one of the pics, but straight on it is not as bad as that looks and I believe it will be smoother after sanding and a reapplication. AS recommended in teh directions, I did put some painters tape on teh bottom edge so I can peel off any drips when done.

Here are some pictures. In picture 2 you can just see one of the places it ran into the gap. Just below the arrow. (man it is hard to take pictures of this stuff.)

The last picture is of the overall setup. I used a bit of plastic all around taped a little up on the bottom of the bar so I did not have to worry about it running back there. Then I put a strip of cardboard down and put some newspaper on that. It did not run on the paper much at all but unless you had several layers, the paper alone is probably not quite enough to be safe. My wife laughed at me for my belt and suspenders approach, but the last thing I wanted to have to worry about while this stuff is setting up by the minute was whether it was ruining the flor or something.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_4126.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_4127-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_4139.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b371/sherifftruman/100_4133.jpg

Wow! Looks fantastic especially for only the first pour. So you applied the stuff with a brush? Mine said just to move it around with a hard piece of plastic or wood paint stick to allow proper coverage. It then leveled itself out.

Well, I poured it out and moved it with a brush mostly. The directions said to use a plastic card or a brush and I actually had and used a little of both but the brush just ended up being a little easier as it was less likely to dig in too deep, especially in the tray.

I definitely will use a foam brush on the repour.

Wow, that looks really nice. I'm glad you shared the pictures and included your thoughts on the whole process. I finally delivered my lumber last week and the top is being assembled at this time. As soon as I get it back I'm going to bring my thread back to life and hopefully do the pour right after the first of the year. Great job, I hope mine turns out looking that good.

I thought I read somewhere not to use foam brushes? They had a tendency to leave little bits behind.

I was hesitant to use foam brushes for just that reason. However, since the Famowood and the E Tex products do not have harsh solvents in them, it does not seem to break the brush down like other "epoxy" products do.

I did my second coat a couple of hours ago (trying to get it done and cured in time for people to come over this weekend.) and used foam brushes and had no issues at all. With the bristle brushes, I had bristles coming off and sticking in the coating.

I will say the second coat, it is probably more important to use plenty of material than the first. I had some left after coat one and made a littel less this time and literally barely had enough. It tended to leave gaps more than it did when coating a non shiny surface. (I did lightly sand with 220 grit and then 400 grit paper between coats. Heck, the 220 only left very light scratches in it except the couple of places I concentrated on. This stuff is pretty amazing.

Very nice. Looks like it went well. I bought enough etex back in early Sept for my bar and back bar, but haven't gotten around to it yet. This time of the year I'm doing lots of outdoor stuff.
I was also planning on going with a 1/4 pour first, then going with the bigger pour later on. I bought a can of gloss poly that I planned on giving it 2-3 coats before the 1/4 pour hoping that will provide some sort of seal between the joints. My top is prefinished flooring. I'm hoping the 2-3 poly coats + the light 1/4 coat will keep the bubbles at bay during the final pour.

Anyone have an recommendations for staining maple plywood black? I've heard maple does not take stain well. Should I try a dye? I have a bunch of scrap to practice on, but I just need some opinions on products and techniques.

You may want to ask in this gentleman's thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1186253

Very nice. Looks like it went well. I bought enough etex back in early Sept for my bar and back bar, but haven't gotten around to it yet. This time of the year I'm doing lots of outdoor stuff.
I was also planning on going with a 1/4 pour first, then going with the bigger pour later on. I bought a can of gloss poly that I planned on giving it 2-3 coats before the 1/4 pour hoping that will provide some sort of seal between the joints. My top is prefinished flooring. I'm hoping the 2-3 poly coats + the light 1/4 coat will keep the bubbles at bay during the final pour.

I would not even worry at all about the poly. It may as well be water compared to etex. Just do the 1/4 coat first, but concentrate on making sure the joints are covered. I can pretty much tell you that the 1/4 pour will not look right at all though so plan on doing coat two right after. This stuff really needs to have a "critical mass" of coating or it just will not self level. There is so much surface tension within it that it will tend to bead up and will leave uncovered gaps.

Yup - i'd pour the whole damn thing . Get a couple of helpers to move the Etex around and pop the bubbles .

Anyone have an recommendations for staining maple plywood black? I've heard maple does not take stain well. Should I try a dye? I have a bunch of scrap to practice on, but I just need some opinions on products and techniques.

My bar top is maple plywood. I used Saman stains (I'd say it is more like a dye than a traditional stain) to dye it black. Now this results in a very deep black. The maple is so smooth, and the dye covers it so well, that it almost doesn't look like wood at all. If it was for something other than for my bar top, I thnk I'd prefer a more transparent look, although that would have to be considerably lighter.

I have an Envirotex question to which i have not found an answer to.

On my bar top i plan on having 3.5"x3.5" cork corners on the drink rail, they will be "boxed" in.

My question is, can i mix up some Envirotex and pour and fill the area? I plan on packing the corks pretty tight to each other, would it be a problem for it to settle in the cracks and get a good top coat? Would the bubbles be impossible to get rid of, because of all the small openings?

Could you seal the corks with poly before putting them in there? THat should help.

Also, if you do the pour in a couple of stages it should help. Just mix up a very small amount of etex and fill say a half inch at a time before waiting for it to set and doing it again the next day?

Good idea Lee. I have some 5/4 left over from the bar top, maybe i'll mockup a small bar top and do practice pour with the corks.

Now to find the time....

Yeah, I agree. Not sure how thick you are pouring but I wouldn't think you'd see the layers.

I wouldn't seal or coat the cork, I don't think that is necessary.

I have been procrastinating on my bar big time. I need a couple more coats of poly and then pour the etex. My bottle is a year old so im concerned the etex i bad by now.

everything so far has turned out great.

everything so far has turned out great.

Looking forward to see your progress and some pics. Have you started a thread yet?

anyone know how to remove visible scratches from an Etex surface ?
I tried a good car wax but nuthin .

I wonder if a windshield glass repair kit that's sold in an auto parts store would work??
Might be worth trying out in an inconspicuous area or on test sample first. It sure would be easier and a whole lot cheaper than a repour. Another solution might be to mask off outside the scratch area with blue tape, mix a small capful of Etex and try to lay it in the scratch with a toothpick. I have no idea how that would look or turn out, but I'm sure we would all be interested in what fix you come up with.

Along the auto parts idea, maybe the headlight polishing kit from an auto parts store? Not sure what they are actually called. But they are used to remove that "fog" that occurs on headlight plastics.

I've been told they work really well for that purpose and they only cost like $20.

The other idea I have is that you could mix up a really thin batch and use the tooth pic method to spread some out in the area of the scratch and surrounding area. Then buff/polish it down until it all matches with the rest of the surface. I guess that's what the windshield kit would do.

this seems to be a thread that is every so often visited. I hope there are some active members replying.:D

I want to use laminate flooring for my bar top. ( we were just going to use oak laminate board but the bar will be 11 feet long (with oak chicago rail,,,, which I can get from local millwork for under $8. a foot)) & do not want a seam line at 8 feet where I'd have to join it )what experiences have you guys had with just putting this on without any type of coating on top? will here be problems of water marks or other damage? ( can't think it would be getting more use than a floor!

have you put something like a polyurethane over it ?
if I decide at some future point to put on etex, will it go over the poly ok? ( I seem to recall that a coat of poly was suggested to cut down on the air bubbles coming up from bare wood underneath)

& to the durability of the etex. how have you handled the dents & such that I have read can come from setting objects on it for a long time? I do plan on setting several objects on my bar & was wondering if the etex would be worth the trouble I might have. so I read it take 25 min for you to work the etex before it hardens. what size bar tops are easily able to work in that amount of time, & where would you get into trouble. ( & if you do,,, uh what do you do? have a mound of etex sitting there like a volcano?)

our plans are of an OLde Irish/Celtic theme , room is only 11'8" x 14', so am still planning the room & back bar out. whole room dedicated to the theme, with stucco walls & such. we don't have the floor poured yet ( its an addition , going to have a concrete floor). my latest find is that I have to wait about 4 months before I can install the floor ( due to the moisture from concrete pour). but that seems ok, as i need a place to stain the bar & don't want to do it OVER the floor . ( althought it might be cumbesome to move the bar.. into place after...:rolleyes: )
I will eventually post pics afterward if anyone would be interested. but as you all know this takes time!;)

please tell of your experiences!:p

I think this thread has answers to the majority of your questions. In my posts I tell of making sure the wood has acclimated to the conditions of the space and that what I used was prefinished.

The one thing not covered is using wood slats for the bar top only. As some of us have experienced, even the thick epoxy mixture flowed through the wood slats and sub-board onto the floor/protection. I wouldn't want to accidently spell a drink on a nice bar that didn't have an appropriate top finish. Fluids will ruin the underlayment and imagine how bad a beer or other drink might smell after it has been trapped inbetween the wood for some time.

Any helpwould be greatly appreciated. I am a wood finisher by trade, and we did a friends basement. He wanted to use etex lite on his bartop, but I wasn't comfortable with it since I am not familiar with the product. Long story short, someone else did it, poured about 3/8ths, didn't use a torch or breathe on it, and it turned out terrible. Some of the bubbles will be fine, they cratered and are clear. Many of the smaller ones are white. You can't feel them from the surface. We sanded with w/d 400, then 600, and they still will not come out. When we do get to tham, they are cratered bubbles. I had thoughts of using a light stain again to color them. Something tells me we are going to have to start over. Are there any solvents that will even touch this stuff? This is a cherry colored poplar top. Any input at all would be great. Thanks much--
Tom

Do a thin repour and it will cover all the flaws, but use the torch this go round to pop the surfacing air bubbles as they rise. And make sure to follow the directions exactly about mixing and pouring into a fresh container.
I have used the thick, paste stripper (Klean Strip) on my bar rail to remove about 6' of etex and it does work. It was very time consuming because it will not eat through 3/8" all at once or whatever thickness you have down. I masked off the flat bar top prior to stripping. It was a real pain in the butt but it came out good the second time around. When I repoured, I had an area (about 5') of the bar rail that I didn't strip and just repoured over it and it blended in perfectly.
Keep a clock handy during the pour because I have found that this stuff starts harding almost exactly as advertised. But I don't think you'll have the problems I had because you are dealing with just a flat surface. The etex does a great job covering previous flaws.

Good luck

Anyone have an recommendations for staining maple plywood black? I've heard maple does not take stain well. Should I try a dye? I have a bunch of scrap to practice on, but I just need some opinions on products and techniques.

I just stained my Maple bar (hardwood and ply) with TransTint dye...water based liquid and it worked really well. Google TransTint and you can find it...they have a black color too. I used a wiping glaze on top of the dye coat to even out the color. You can also get a black wiping glaze.

not sure if anyone is still following this thread but the info has helped me in the process of doing my bar top. i am waiting for it to be finished, it is made out of white pine and has been kiln dried. i am doing an "L" shaped tiki bar which will be outside under a 12'x10' tiki hut. i think i'm going to go with Kleer Koat #30 for the bar top. On their site it is $116 for 4 gallons. my bar top is about 21 sq feet. has anyone used this product? how would it or any epoxy hold up in the winter (i live in upstate NY) the bar will be covered in the off season.

well i just found out that the Kleer Koat #30 does not have UV inhibitors, and while my bar is under my tiki hut, it will still get some sun from the sides as the sun sets...does the envirotex have UV protection?

well i just found out that the Kleer Koat #30 does not have UV inhibitors, and while my bar is under my tiki hut, it will still get some sun from the sides as the sun sets...does the envirotex have UV protection?

Not sure it has UV stabilizers, but it's not recommended for exterior applications per etex directions.

Neither is Etex.

is there a product for outdoor applications?

is there a product for outdoor applications?

You might want to look at Helmsman spar varnish by Minwax or another brand of marine varnish that has superior UV blockers

do those other products end up being as thick as the kleer koat or the environtex stuff? whats the consensus on the epoxy types holding up to winter temps...it would be covered but temps could go from 10 degrees to 40 degrees daily in the winters in upstate ny. the bar top is being installed this week so i need to make a decision soon...

can you put a spar varnish over top of environtex to protect it from UV rays?

Has anyone done a comparison between E-Tex, Kleer Kote, and BarTopEpoxy.com's stuff? Seems like most here have done E-Tex.

I did find a post online that indicated the Kleer Kote was a little more durable but was curious as to what the group thought. Im getting ready to pour a big bar top and want to get the right stuff.

can you put a spar varnish over top of environtex to protect it from UV rays?

I did this with mine without that intention. I put the spar varnish on the wood flooring planks first hoping that would give me the finish I wanted. I then later put E-tex on top. Didn't have issues with it in a basement.

Hi everyone first post, great site!!!

I am finishing the complete gutting and rebuilding of my basement, I will post pics if you would like to see the before and after. Anyway, I am at the final stage of doing my bartop. I have sheets of 1 x 16" oak and I would like to stain them before using the Envirotex...can you use the Envirotex on stained wood?? Also I will be installing bar rail moulding on the outer perimeter of the bar. Should I install the rails first before envirotexing the surface or install after??? (help keep the material from dripping off). Would it be in my best interest to create shoring around the perimeter to keep the material on the top while curing? Also what should I use on the rail moulding to match the gloss and protection of the bar top? I would like everything to match as best as possible.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post...I look forward to your advice!!

Jason

Hi everyone first post, great site!!!
You my friend have NO idea!! :D

can you use the Envirotex on stained wood??

Yes, just make sure you give the stain "ample" time to dry "completely"


Should I install the rails first before envirotexing the surface or install after???Definitely install the rails first. After wont work so well.
Would it be in my best interest to create shoring around the perimeter to keep the material on the top while curing? Please give more detail to this part of your question Also what should I use on the rail moulding to match the gloss and protection of the bar top?
Most people (myself included) just used polyurethane. I did several coats as well.

If interested there are several GREAT bar build threads in the general media/game room forums Click Me (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=15) or check out my bar build thread for a ton of pictures and such. Its the first link in my signature below. The 2nd link is my home theater build which wont help you much.

Yeah, pretty much what Iusteve said. Etex will stick to just about everything. I had the foot rail completely installed while pouring the etex. I just used the cheap mil plastic drop sheets to cover everything up including taping it underneath above where your knees would be. If you check out HeyNow's build, he built a duct tape dam around his top to prevent runoff...ain't duct tape a wonderful thing!

I etex'd the bar rail and it turned out OK. I let it rundown the front onto the plastic sheets and ground the hanging etex icicle balls flush a few days later. I have few spots with runs on the curves, but it's not very noticeable except by me. Etex is really designed to be self leveling and for flat surfaces so it presents real challenges on curved surfaces.
Good luck and post some pics.
Rich

Same answer.

I installed the bar rail and molding on the backside of the top with a lip extending 1/8-1/4" up above the surface. Worked great.

I covered rail and the rest of the trim/bar with Helmsman Exterior High-Gloss and it matched perfectly.

Definitely use protection!

I am coating my bar top with Envirotex this week and after reading through the comments I have some questions I was hoping someone could help me with.

I plan on staining the bar top first before I pour the envirotex on it. I prefer to use a minwax oil based stain but will the envirotex coat to it? I read I should use a water based stain instead as epoxy has a hard time coating to minwax oil based stain. I tried out a water based stain on a sample piece of wood and I just don't like the look as much as the oil based.

I planed a trough into the edge of my countertop and on the other edge is a chicago bar stock rail. How do I pour the envirotex with the trough, won't all the epoxy just settle into it? I was thinking of placing some wood in the trough and as the epoxy starts to harden I would remove it, but not sure how that would work. The chicago barstock also has elbow rest grooves so I figured I couldn't epoxy it sincer the surface isn't level. I probably will use polyurethane or polycrylic on that.

Can anyone offer some suggestions on what I might be able to do?

Thanks

Reddrgn88 & G-Man 42, you have certainly come to the right place. I spent many many hours on here so scared that i would mess up the E-Tex pour. It turned out to be the best decision of my entire build!!

Couple things:

I Masked the underside of the bar to protect it and the floor with some thin plastic sheeting:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jP_4Pj8XoQw/THM893RGMgI/AAAAAAAAAMw/ERMqMW43cM0/s640/IMG_1975.JPG

I actually poured the back bar first to practice, gave me confidence to do the main part, hence why the back bar is covered in the pic above.

G-Man 42, i assume by trough you mean bar rail? If so, i have one also, and you'll be surprised how the E-Tex acts when it meets an edge, it doesn't like to flow freely over the edge as much as you would think. I just poured the top, floated it around, and poured some more E-Tex in the rail and flowed it around:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vykda8mAvgM/THM9Hw8O-LI/AAAAAAAAAM8/yo2XYsOpD6A/s640/IMG_1978.JPG

I poured the rail with E-tex, a piece of advice, pour the rail last, this way the E-Tex is actually thicker and less prone to run as much. It didn't come out perfect, but I agree with Javatime, i am the only one that notices it. +1 on the icicles too:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XCejGpoPY0Y/THM9eMt-VHI/AAAAAAAAAOM/0s8ZfoO-yqg/s640/IMG_1998.JPG

I also 'tented' the entire bar after the pour, as i was freaked out about dust settling:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q_UFoPmzTMU/TG84-Aj1eWI/AAAAAAAAAMU/7cOUPlZ2uqE/s640/IMG_1974.JPG

You can see the build album here if interested: https://picasaweb.google.com/111298923128672801427/BarProgress, i 'finished' last year, and love every minute of it. There are a TON of incredibly helpful people here, definitely start a build thread of your own, post lots of pictures, and you'll get more comments and help than you ever imagined possible.

mtbvert,

Thanks for your help. This is a great site and your bar looks beautiful.

What kind of stain did you use? I haven't posted enough to attach links yet, but the site I was looking at has me scared. The site is on westsystem.com and they have an actual test with epoxy and different types of stain. Minwax oil based failed all of them.

My bar rail is similar to yours except that it is not open in the back. It's actually grooved into the bar and has about an inch edge on the back side that is the same height as the bar top. I'd attach a picture if I knew how to. I'm glad to hear the epoxy isn't as runny as I was thinking, because I have been kicking myself for even making a bar rail.

Thanks again for the pictures and advice. They are very helpful.

I forgot to ask you how long did you wait after staining before you placed the epoxy? Then when you poured the epoxy how long did you wait until you uncovered it?

Thanks again

I guess I have posted enough now. Here's the link that has me concerned. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/epoxy-adhesion-over-stains/

I guess I have posted enough now. Here's the link that has me concerned. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/epoxy-adhesion-over-stains/

I used Minwax Oil-Based stain and EnviroTex Lite to pour. http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/

I don't have any experience with the West Systems Epoxy, but the E-Tex had no problem on top of the oil based Minwax. In general, everyone on the forums seems to favor E-Tex over everything else.

It was at least 4 days between stain and E-Tex pour. As i said, i was very nervous too, with the amount of $ i had in the solid red oak bar top and bar rail, the last thing i wanted to do was ruin it with a bad pour. That is why i poured the back bar first, to make sure i did it right!!

I left it "tented" for a full 24 hours after i did the pour. I also stayed out of the bar are completely during that cure time to prevent and chance of dust.

Do you have an scrap pieces of bar rail and top that you could mock up and practice on?

I completely forgot that i did a seal coat first with the E-Tex, it is recommended with oak to fill in the pores of the wood, it cuts down on bubbles during the cure. I just went back and re-read my build thread, i forgot a lot of the things i did!!

I used 1/4 of the recommended amount for my bar top and applied it with a brush for the seal coat. After that dried, i did the flood coat using the recommended amount to get the final thick layer on top.

My bar top is maple and I have the E-Tex Lite already purchased. I guess I probably should still do a seal coat. I do have some extra pieces of the bar top to practice on and I will definately do that.

I'm just glad to hear about the minwax oil based stain and about the bar rail. Those were my two biggest concerns. Now my biggest concern is the bar rail is 2 1/2" and not 3 1/2". I had a local woodshop do this for me. Now I gotta figure out if I can cut an extra inch with any of the tools I have.

Thanks again

2.5" vs 3.5", what do you mean??

The width of the bar rail. My router isn't strong enough to cut the extra inch so I'm going to have to take it to a wood shop and have them use a commercial router or jig saw to get it done.

The width of the bar rail. My router isn't strong enough to cut the extra inch so I'm going to have to take it to a wood shop and have them use a commercial router or jig saw to get it done.

OK, gotcha.

Hey all . . I'm loooking to do a e-tex bar top over some ticket stubs and other paper items. Ideally I would not like to completely encase these things so if I ever move or something happens, I could remove them (with some effort). I was thinking about some sort of clear layer between the items and e-tex. Any suggestions? Or would I just be better off with an acrylic top? Thanks!

All I will say (with an etex bar myself)is that Etex is VERY permanent. The items under/in the etex are not salvageable. If you are wanting to "remove" the items at some point I would look into another material to use on top of your bar.

The photos I posted at the start of this thread are gone for some reason. Guess it's too old or they've changed the way they can be posted. Was able to attach some of them. First one is before the Epoxy and the last two are afterwards.

The wood floor planks were pre-finished and the bar rail was finished with an exterior grade gloss polyurethane.

As Iusteve mentioned, those babies will be a permanent part of your bar top and for the next owner if you move and leave the bar. I would use a plexiglass top.