I had a thread a few weeks back regarding leveling a basement floor for ceramic tile. Turns out that it will be a lot of expense I don't want to go through as the area is too big for self leveling compound. I'm thinking about painting it now. I saw a cool idea on DIY or somewhere that you can paint a color (think the color of grout) on the floor. Then, with thin tape, mark off the floor to resemble tiles. Next, paint your 'Tile' color and use sea sponges to damp on various colors randomly to make it look like a tile. Pull up the tape, and you have the pseudo grout line.

Has anyone done anything similar to this? Where can I buy paint for a concrete floor in various colors? After you paint the concrete paint, can I use normal laytex paint for the contrasting colors over top? I've placed plastic all over the basement and duct taped it to the floor and left for 48 hours and no water spots. I should be safe to paint as it's dry, just not sure what type of paint to use or where to buy.

I've seen the Epoxy paints for a garage with the specles, but I really don't want gray and specles.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

The speckles are usually something you throw on afterwards while it is drying. (don't know about all brands though)

Tony, there was some discussion and pictures of this in SWithley's thread. They were talking about garage floors, but the concept and technique is the same. Here is a direct link:
Floor Painting (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9980943&&#post9980943)

Also, you may want to search for concrete stain vs. paint, as it's a different look and technique, and has a more "organic" look than paint.

Of course you don't HAVE to level the concrete before tiling, unless it's really bad. You can even use the thinset to do some minor leveling. I just got a contractor flier from Lowe's that had a tan ceramic 12x12 for $.78, I think it's the same one I was planning on using at $.98. At that price it may not be much more expensive that the paint, and probably just as fast as taping the lines. Wear would not be an issue either.

Good luck deciding.
Chip

Tony, there was some discussion and pictures of this in SWithley's thread. They were talking about garage floors, but the concept and technique is the same. Here is a direct link:
Floor Painting (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9980943&&#post9980943)

Also, you may want to search for concrete stain vs. paint, as it's a different look and technique, and has a more "organic" look than paint.

Of course you don't HAVE to level the concrete before tiling, unless it's really bad. You can even use the thinset to do some minor leveling. I just got a contractor flier from Lowe's that had a tan ceramic 12x12 for $.78, I think it's the same one I was planning on using at $.98. At that price it may not be much more expensive that the paint, and probably just as fast as taping the lines. Wear would not be an issue either.

Good luck deciding.
Chip

Thanks Chip. My floor is very unlevel, shaped like a fishbowl. High around the edges, low in the center. Like they poured it with a drain in mind. From edge to center is off by about 1 or 2". It's over a large area too. Would be very noticeable with tiles, and would be cost prohibitive in the amount of leveling compound I'd have to buy. Do you know if Lowes or HD sell the Stains and Paints?

I'm actually thinking doing epoxy. I think this is a great alternative and will leave a nice, durable finish.

Yeah, 1-2" is too much to not level. Of course 2" is thick enough to use regular concrete which is much cheaper. Then you could go over it with a thin coat of the leveler to get it smooth. Still not a cheap solution, I don't think there is one. I think those is one of those "put up or shut up" problems. You either spend the time an money to fix it right, or live with it.

You could try a rough fill with regular concrete and then Dricore over the top of that, but I wouldn't do it that way. Too many chances of unevenness and rocking in the subfloor.

The fish bowl look will still be there with paint too, or course.

I did see a tan garage floor (Edit: 2-part epoxy) paint, but was really looking for anything like that, so I can't say what they may have in addition to that.

Time to put your thinking cap on...
Chip

I'm actually thinking doing epoxy. I think this is a great alternative and will leave a nice, durable finish.
Yep, I like it too, been on my very short list of options for HT floor. I have a known water problem in my basement, so even if I have my moisture problem fixed, I'd never risk anything that couldn't be easily removed to dry out. So ceramic tile or an epoxy paint with an area rug (or not) are the only options I felt comfortable with. I even did a coarse of 4" tall solid block to set the double stud walls on.

Chip

I'm hoping one of you finely knowledgable folks can help me with this.

I stopped by Lowes and HD and found Quikrete and Behr Concrete Stains (Semi-Transparent) that looks like it would be very nice. For both brands, the first step is a De-greaser/Cleaner, then Etching.

All the instructions for Etching says to wet the concrete first, then put the Etching solution in a watering can and pour on the concrete, and use a push broom to rub it in. The thing I don't understand is the instructions says to WET the concrete before etching and DURING etching. It doesn't explain how "WET" to get the concrete. Since this will be inside, in my basement, I don't want to spray water everywhere. Are you suppose to just do a fine mist of water, or do you spray quite a bit before and during the etching?

Anyone have a clue?

Here is an article to answer the etching question and a warning about epoxy:

http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=17770

For Epoxy, do the plastice sheet sealed to the concrete trick for 24 hours. It there is moisture, don't epoxy, the hydrostatic pressure will push though and peel up the epoxy from beneath.

My uncle stopped by my house and checked out my basement. He's done plenty of tile work before, but he's not a professional. He said he wouldn't worry about doing a thing to my basement floor because there are no sudden drops. It is a slight decline out to the center of the room, then levels off, then a slight incline back up to the other side. He stated that I could build up the Thin-Set just to make sure tile by tile butts up to each other (level), and let the tiles follow the curve of the basement floor. It's not noticeable by looking, but once I point it out and you scoot your feet from one side to the other in the room, you can tell it is shaped like a bowl.

Anyway, because he's not a pro, I'm not sure if I should move forward with it like this. Anyone have any thoughts?

Why don't you try pouring a gallon of water at a time in the center of the floor, then you'll have a good idea of how much floor leveler you'd need to get it close. Then you mix up that much floor leveler, again enough to get it close. Then finish up the leveling with the thinset as your uncle suggested. If you take an inch out with the leveler (assuming the 2" max you mentioned earlier) and 1/4-1/2" with thinset then even you probably would never notice the 1/4-1/2" that is still out.

Why don't you try pouring a gallon of water at a time in the center of the floor, then you'll have a good idea of how much floor leveler you'd need to get it close. Then you mix up that much floor leveler, again enough to get it close. Then finish up the leveling with the thinset as your uncle suggested. If you take an inch out with the leveler (assuming the 2" max you mentioned earlier) and 1/4-1/2" with thinset then even you probably would never notice the 1/4-1/2" that is still out.

Funny you should mention that. I was looking to do that to help even a little more. I hadn't thought about using water to get an idea first. I can suck it up in my wet/dry vac when done.

I can suck it up in my wet/dry vac when done.
That's what I was planning on saying, just forgot to type it in :o

Chip

Oh, also, draw a outline with permanet marker or something around where the water stands so you'll have a guide when you lay the leveler. Use a tensioned string too, you can raise it up an inch or two then measure down to maintain the (semi-level) plane.

Good luck
Chip