Hi everyone!

I've searched, but have been unable to find an answer to my question.

I have an Onkyo A/V Receiver that has two TOSLink inputs available, but I have three devices that I'd like to use that output via TOSLink. Only one of the three will be on at one time.

Is there anywhere I can get a switch (or a joiner) that would automatically accept the correct input and output it to one TOSLink?

I hope that makes sense. THANKS so much in advance!

-cntli

Audio Authority makes one:

https://www.audioauthority.com/indexh.php?ret=https://www.audioauthority.com/index.php?p=productMore&iProduct=5


If you wanted to use an IR remote control to switch sources, there are other options such as this Digital Audio Switch from Inday:

http://www.inday.com/da4x/da4x.htm

Sorry to bump such an old thread, but is anyone aware of any alternatives to the two linked above? They are far more elaborate (and expensive) than I would need.

I'd like to get something which only had 3 or 4 inputs, and Toslink only (no Coax). I would hope that would bring the price down at least a bit. Automatic or remote controlled would be good.

Anyone have one of these devices? :)

Monoprice makes a 3 to 1 bidirectional Toslink switch. It's manual, but it only costs like $8. I've never seen any automatic or remote switch cheaper than the ones mentioned above.

If you want to use optical but your receiver only has coaxial inputs left, there are also Toslink to Coaxial digital converter boxes for $12 or so (Monoprice is out of stock, but Parts Express has them.)

Audio Authority makes one:

https://www.audioauthority.com/indexh.php?ret=https://www.audioauthority.com/index.php?p=productMore&iProduct=5


If you wanted to use an IR remote control to switch sources, there are other options such as this Digital Audio Switch from Inday:

http://www.inday.com/da4x/da4x.htm

Sorry for the necropost! :D

But are these still the best options around nowadays?
I only need something that focuses on switching multi-TOSLINK inputs (maybe one or two mini-TOS included) to 1 TOSLINK output.
And ideally in an automated fashion, instead of manually having to switch.

Any ideas/suggestions? Thank-you!

I believe I may have found the perfect solution for my needs! :)
http://www.shinkin.com.tw/product/toslink%20selector.aspx
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330446122338
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C15798

yeah, so there we go folks :)

So choosing between these two, which would ya'll pick?

http://www.shinkin.com.tw/product/toslink%20selector.aspx
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330446122338
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C15798

http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1177A/Switcher/5/1
http://www.smarthome.com/777077/Digital-Audio-Auto-Switcher/p.aspx

*update*
Crikey there's yet another option!
http://www.inday.com/da4x/da4x.htm
Found out thanks to this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13883738#post13883738

So now I really need some thoughts if anyone has used these units plz!

anyone? thank-you.

um... anyone?

I've never used one, so I can't comment on them specifically.

But they're a digital switch, so if there is a problem with them, you'll know immediately because the sound will cut out. Otherwise, it should work perfectly.

Just get one from a place that allows free returns.

@Tulpa any preference amongst the 3?
I'm erring more towards the shin-kin coz it has IR with discrete codes for each source so a UR can be used.
I imagine the source auto-switch feature of the 1177A won't be too handy in practice.

I think it's just whatever features you want to use. Otherwise, I think they're all more alike than they are different.

The autoswitching would work by whatever new signal comes in. Like if you got the DVD player running but then turn on a PS3, it would switch over to that one.

But the one with IR would work just as well, just with a remote.

I think I'd prefer IR controllable more than auto-switching...
Which is easily broken if you happen to have more than one source transmitting at once.
I guess there's no difference between them aside from that...

woah 340am, night.

I think autoswitching just reacts to new signals, not continuous ones. Unless you perfectly timed two devices to transmit at the exact same time, one of them will be after the other.

But I'd go with the remote one as well, if my remote had the codes or could be programmed.

I think autoswitching just reacts to new signals, not continuous ones. Unless you perfectly timed two devices to transmit at the exact same time, one of them will be after the other

Yeah but it'd be pretty useless if I happen to have 2 sources running at once.
It'd switch to whichever it detects as the "new" source and that'd be that.
see this users thoughts.....
http://www.avforums.com/forums/interconnects-speaker-cables-switches/336794-optical-toslink-switch-2.html#post12510280
An IR controllable switch would be more useful don't you think?

Yeah but it'd be pretty useless if I happen to have 2 sources running at once.

It would switch to whichever was turned on last. If you turn one off and on again, it would switch to that one.

An IR controllable switch would be more useful don't you think?

It depends on the setup and what you're doing, IMO. The autosensing setup would work just fine for setups with one device running at a time, and you don't have to push any remote buttons. It does it automatically. But again, it depends on what you want to do.

Personally, I dislike switches and go for receivers that have enough inputs, but that's not always an option for everyone.

I know at least one of the 2 with IR have discrete codes that can be used with my universal remote.

Even if it means you have to 'manually' switch sources by using a remote...
I think it'd be more useful in situations where you have more than one source operating at once.

Makes better sense don't you reckon?

Yeah, but again, it goes back to what you want to do. Personally, I rarely have more than one source going at once. I'm actually having a hard time thinking of a scenario where that would be desirable, but apparently people have a need for it. I just think there is merit to both types of switches.

If it had auto-switch that could be overridden by IR control I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Alas...

So it comes down to the other two, which in itself is becoming a tricky comparo... :eek:

I've lost track with all the links and stuff. Which are the two you're looking at?

I've lost track with all the links and stuff. Which are the two you're looking at?

These are the 3 I'm looking at
http://www.avforums.com/forums/interconnects-speaker-cables-switches/336794-optical-toslink-switch-2.html#post12510390

Thanks!

I'm starting to think the AOS-42TR-B (http://www.shinkin.com.tw/product/toslink%20selector.aspx) is the best value....
Looking at various reseller pricing, as far as I can see it's substantially cheaper than the DA4X-R (http://www.inday.com/da4x/da4x.htm), and even more so than the 1177A (http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1177A/Switcher/5/1).

I don't see the need to be able to also take digital coax...
I envision the need for up to 4 toslink inputs, possibly 3 + one coax, but more likely all optical.
___________
Audio sources
***********
Xbox......TOSLINK
HTPC.....TOSLINK (Essence ST sound card &/or ALC889 on-board)
Cable.....TOSLINK (only if can't integrate cable into HTPC; upgrade to new STB)
PS3.......TOSLINK (I don't own this yet)
Other: any idea?....TOSLINK (possible only if cable is integrated into HTPC, good chance)

The two devices I output to* I don't envision either having only coax s/pdif-in.
And even if need to input & output 1x coax later, I can always buy 1 or 2 optical-to-coax adapters right?!

Plus being manually controllable via IR** is handier overall than source auto-switching.
Unless anyone disagrees, why so?

*
1) JVC SU-DH1 (LT my SU-DH1 will be supplanted by an AVR or separates)
2) HTPC (have a few discrete cards in mind that take s/pdif-in)

**
AOS-42TR-B & DA4X-R have discrete codes that can be programmed into a UR

If you're okay with getting up and walking over to the switch, get the cheap manual one (although it probably won't have enough inputs if you get more than three devices.) Otherwise, get the cheaper one that uses the remote, since you seem sold on the IR capability.

Performancewise, they should all be the same. It's a digital signal, so either it will pass it through perfectly or (if it's a lemon) it will interrupt the flow and you'll know immediately that there is a problem because the sound will either stutter or cut out.

That's about it.

And yeah, if you have an optical and coaxial switch and need optical to coax adapters, the adapters are available (for like $12-15) and work fine.

If you're okay with getting up and walking over to the switch, get the cheap manual one (although it probably won't have enough inputs if you get more than three devices.) Otherwise, get the cheaper one that uses the remote, since you seem sold on the IR capability.

Performancewise, they should all be the same. It's a digital signal, so either it will pass it through perfectly or (if it's a lemon) it will interrupt the flow and you'll know immediately that there is a problem because the sound will either stutter or cut out.

That's about it.

Well I'm not "sold" on IR capability....
I'm just trying to determine whether in practise it's slightly more useful than auto-switch.
I've outlined my envisaged source and destination devices, does this not help you advise?

Also, given the envisaged usage I've outlined...
It makes sense that a toslink AND coax input/output device isn't necessary right?
(unless i determine that auto-switch is more favourable, in which case I have to get such a device)

And yeah, if you have an optical and coaxial switch and need optical to coax adapters, the adapters are available (for like $12-15) and work fine.

The cheapest IR controlled switch I'm looking at is all optical, so one or two optical2coax adapters may be necessary.
Good to know they're around for only 12-15, and work well, thanks!

@Tupla: you seem to have missed my responses?
Thank-you very much.

I got the responses. Just not sure what else to tell you. It does seem that the IR one might serve you better if it has all the inputs you need.

Righto... thanks.

Jalyst, I remember your thread regarding surround headphones. Is this what the optical signal's gonna be used for?

If so, I found a way to do 3 optical signals to my A-T wireless headphones transmitter. What allows this to work is that the A-T has 2 optical inputs on the base; BTW, I too have an Onkyo receiver with only 2 optical inputs (not counting the front-panel one).

I have my PS3 and blu-ray player shooting light to the Onkyo, with the Onkyo's output going to input "1" of the wireless headphones base. Input "2" of the base receives red light directly from my cable box. 3 sources.

A simple programming addition to my Harmony remote allows it to switch inputs as needed.

I too was looking at the Audio Authority 1177A before realizing I have all the inputs I needed. On a side note, I've used auto-sensing switchers with wireless headphones in the past, and they've worked perfectly without any kind of intervention - as long as they are signal-sensing AND input-prioritized. That said, if you're not sure if the inputs are prioritized, a remote-switchable soution would be preferred.

Sorry for the delayed response, very busy lately :(

Jalyst, I remember your thread regarding surround headphones. Is this what the optical signal's gonna be used for?

Yes "wireless" headphones was the focus, surround came in later....
My headphones are the RS-180, which connects to a SU-DH1 (DH adapter) or HTPC, both of which will connect to the switch-out.
Eventually my SU-DH1 will be re-placed by an AVR or separates, which may also act as the switching device.

I too was looking at the Audio Authority 1177A before realizing I have all the inputs I needed.

I don't have sufficient switching capability without such a device.

On a side note, I've used auto-sensing switchers with wireless headphones in the past, and they've worked perfectly without any kind of intervention - as long as they are signal-sensing AND input-prioritized. That said, if you're not sure if the inputs are prioritized, a remote-switchable soution would be preferred.

Not sure what you mean by input "prioritised"?

The way I see it, auto-sensing is still fallible irrespective of "prioritisation".
It might not be often, but there's potential for it to become annoying, hence why I settled on IR controlled.

It's a shame the 1177A doesn't have IR integrated, I'd buy it in a heart-beat! Instead I'm getting this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220638226816&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123).
There's an older revision that has the same electricals, but better build quality features....

I didn't know you were waiting for a response, sounds like you already know what you need/want.

At one time, my home theater audio only consisted of a hand-me-down HTIB and an expensive set of Audio Technica wireless surround 'phones. Of course, most of the time the headphones were used.

Switching between sources was done with an "Octava" HDMI/Toslink switcher with auto-switching. The auto switching worked so well, that I wondered why more A/V receivers didn't have some sort of defeatable version of this feature as well.

As for the prioritization, I don't think companies call it that, but have their own name for it. Octava called theirs "smart scan." In addition to sensing an HDMI source powering up, the prioritization allowed the unit to keep sending the correct A/V signals when multiple sources are powered on. Also when 1 of several sources is powered off, it correctly decides which of the remaining signals to continue sending.

When first connecting the switcher, it says to use input 1 for the most-often used source. 2 for the second most-often, and so on. So allowing the unit to intelligently choose which source to pass when different combinations of sources power on/off.

The thing worked beautifully. I lost the remote control because it never got used. Of course, the unit had to go when I picked up an Onkyo AVR later on.

I still use the A-T phones at night, and of course with the Onkyo I ran into the problem of having more optical sources than back-panel inputs. Now I also have to switch between 7.1 HDMI audio and 5.1 lossy optical when I utilize the headphones.

I miss the simplicity of the old setup. There was just something very cool about a KISS, uncomplicated switcher that required no attention at all, and barely took up any space (compared to a 60-pound AVR).

I didn't need a response, but it's always nice to have some friendly banter on a forum :)
My TV's already got plenty of inputs so I don't need a dedicated video switching device.

Video Source
***********
New XB ...... HDMI 1.3
HTPC ......... HDMI 1.3
[Cable] ...... Component (only if can't integrate cable into my HTPC, in which case I'll upgrade to T$'s newer STB)
--------
PS3 Slim .... Component
#Will need AVR or Seperates after this point, as will have used TV's 4 decent Vid-in, & better if can use 1.4 for PS3 anyway#
Other? ....... HDMI/Component

I'm not sure if the TV has any auto-switching built-in, I doubt it, but nothing a well programmed harmony one can't solve!

Switching between sources was done with an "Octava" HDMI/Toslink switcher with auto-switching. The auto switching worked so well, that I wondered why more A/V receivers didn't have some sort of defeatable version of this feature as well.

As for the prioritization, I don't think companies call it that, but have their own name for it. Octava called theirs "smart scan." In addition to sensing an HDMI source powering up, the prioritization allowed the unit to keep sending the correct A/V signals when multiple sources are powered on. Also when 1 of several sources is powered off, it correctly decides which of the remaining signals to continue sending.

When first connecting the switcher, it says to use input 1 for the most-often used source. 2 for the second most-often, and so on. So allowing the unit to intelligently choose which source to pass when different combinations of sources power on/off. The thing worked beautifully. I lost the remote control because it never got used. Of course, the unit had to go when I picked up an Onkyo AVR later on.

I still don't see how this could be infallible....
Despite some of the extra 'smarts' you've described, these switches still basically rely on prioritising the newest source.
The more sources that come into the equation, the greater the potential for confusing their "prioritisation".

I miss the simplicity of the old setup. There was just something very cool about a KISS, uncomplicated switcher that required no attention at all, and barely took up any space (compared to a 60-pound AVR).

Yeah that's what I'll have hopefully with my video/audio sources previously outlined, my audio switch, my plasma, and my headphones.

I wasn't suggesting anything for you to buy, just telling a story of sorts. I thought you mentioned that u had an onkyo avr... Maybe that was someone else.

oh no I do appreciate that, it's always interesting to hear other peoples experiences!