http://www.svideo.com/appletv2tv.html

For those of you who are boxed in by forced 16:9 letterboxing from your STB via s-video. It looks like converters will become more reasonable very soon.

The converter in the link above was originally selling for $99 but it looks like the price was recently increased - probably because of demand. The converter is often discussed in Apple TV forums. This device may breath new life into DVD recorders that lack component inputs for those that want to record full widescreen 16:9 via s-video from a component source.

I'm guessing in a few months after the dust settles the price will start to come down.

I am looking for the exact type of device. I really want to record 16:9 to my Pioneer 640's hard drive. I have tried separate tuners, and even a Tivo Series 3, but the 640 only records 4:3 .I think it is because it only has S-Video in and the out put from these other tuner is 480 for the S-Video. The component output is widescreen.

I read the description of this device, but the paragraph below sounds like it also converts the video to 4:3 and does not keep the 16:9.

The AppleTV outputs videos on a "widescreen" aspect ratio, also known as 16:9 (pronounced 16 by 9) aspect ratio. This converter will allow you to see the videos on traditional square TVs that have a 4:3 aspect ratio.

I ordered one of these and it works as advertised. It does a good job of converting a 16x9 widescreen output from an STB via component to s-video.

For those that want to record full 16x9 widescreen from an HD source (480i) but their STBs will only output widescreen via component (and your DVD recorder does not have component inputs) then this will do the trick. It doesn't set any flags but it will convert component output to s-video without any artificial letterboxing.

Small update here.

This component to svideo converter does not pass broadcast flags. Meaning I was able to record OnDemand PPV. And I was able to do this with a very CP sensitive DVD recorder. A Toshiba XS55. This was done with a high definition OnDemand PPV movie at 480i. The recording on the Toshiba was in 16x9 widescreen via svideo. No CP alerts.

Also this device does not scale. It sends a high definition signal out via svideo (my STB has to be set at 480i for the Toshiba to be able to record). This may be of interest if somebody wants to send a high definition video signal to an svideo input on an HD television. I haven't tested this yet to an HD TV but based on how the DVD recorder reacted when the cable STB was set to 480p, 720p and 1080i it is obvious the svideo from the device is in HD.

This device may be of interest for those with "STB fatigue". I currently use a Polaroid 2001G to convert component to svideo for recording full widescreen 16x9 to my Toshiba XS55. This device eliminates the need for the Polaroid and thus one STB in the stack. The Polaroid offers many more features and thus will remain but for those looking for something small and simple this may be the answer.

The testing setup is as follows:

SA8300HD -> component to svideo converter -> Toshibs XS55 -> out to HD TV via HDMI at 1080i

Another update. I'm not sure if anybody is interested but the thread is getting some views so hear goes.

The converter appears to be a "grex" like device. The conversion process must not pass on various forms of CP. Even macrovision from a "mouse" land VHS.

Here's what I tested:

Panny es45v -> component to svideo converter -> Toshiba XS35

A "mouse" land VHS via component out of the es45v and into the XS35 via svideo recorded with no problems. Same thing with a DVD produced by the same company. When hooked up svideo to svideo (sans converter) the CP alert stopped the recording (of course).

So it looks like there are added benefits for those interested in such. I'm not sure if this was the intention of the makers. It appears to be an unadvertised "feature".

Another update. I'm not sure if anybody is interested but the thread is getting some views so hear goes.

The converter appears to be a "grex" like device. The conversion process must not pass on various forms of CP. Even macrovision from a "mouse" land VHS.

Here's what I tested:

Panny es45v -> component to svideo converter -> Toshiba XS35

A "mouse" land VHS via component out of the es45v and into the XS35 via svideo recorded with no problems. Same thing with a DVD produced by the same company. When hooked up svideo to svideo (sans converter) the CP alert stopped the recording (of course).

So it looks like there are added benefits for those interested in such. I'm not sure if this was the intention of the makers. It appears to be an unadvertised "feature".
In my current lash-up, I run s-video and stereo audio from a Motorola DCT6412 III HD STB to a Samsung DVD-VR330 VCR/DVD recorder. I use this as a way to record from the Moto's DVR. All DVDs created this way, even when the source material is 16:9, are pillarboxed 4:3. This is supposedly because of the Moto and how it outputs s-video.

If I came out of the 6412 as component video, went into this s-video converter and came out s-video and took that to the VR330, is there any reason to believe that 16:9 material from the DVR would retain that format when recorded?

The 6412 is not widescreen friendly. Even when using component output. I believe you would need a scaler (big bucks). See this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9886276&&#post9886276

The 6412 is not widescreen friendly. Even when using component output. I believe you would need a scaler (big bucks). See this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9886276&&#post9886276Thanks for the feedback. It's what I thought the answer would be but I figured, if you don't ask, you'll never know. :D

Just getting ready to purchase this device. Thanks to those who mentioned it originally since I found this post of Google.

Anyway, if you input 'svideo' for the coupon code, you will get 10% off your order. The price has gone up to $119 from the original $99.

I had been toying with getting a broken DVD recorder with component inputs (i.e. won't record to discs but would work as a component to s-video adapter) , but I finally decided to fork over the extra dollars for a dedicated device that is less likely to break.

Thanks Nextoo for the find and gj54 for the code. Just ordered one. The "svideo" code worked.

Received the adapter pretty quickly even with standard USPS shipping (Texas to Texas shipment). The brightness appears to be a bit high, but HD always seems to be a bit darker. Anyway, the picture quality is so much better than what I had with my SA 8000HD outputting a stretched 4:3 image.

i bought the one from hdtv supply and the pic is perfect. i use it to watch hdtv and simultaneously burn a sd dvd by outputting s-video to my stand alone dvd burner

i bought the one from hdtv supply and the pic is perfect. i use it to watch hdtv and simultaneously burn a sd dvd by outputting s-video to my stand alone dvd burner

Thanks for the tip. Looks like a great site. Which one did you get? Is it in this link or is it something else?

http://www.hdtvsupply.com/cotosad.html

I actually canceled my order realizing the device didn't do the scaling. IMO the downscaling to 480i that the SA8300 does looks horrible with jagged lines and weird artifacts popping up. So even if I did have a dvd recorder with component, it appears the SA8300's 480i really sucks.

Thanks Nextoo for the find and research information, and also to georgejones54 for the discount code. I Just placed an order and the "svideo" code is still working.


My older Dish receiver would allow me to record an anamorphic signal to a DVD set top recorder, and then I'd set the flag via the PC during the authoring process. But my latest Cablevision unit won't pass the signal via s-video.

There must be an easier way... I hear what you're saying about downscaling to 480i, but that only applies to HD content. I have a SA 3250 and Panny E80H, and haven't tried the rebbot at 480i, do your recording, then reboot back to 1080i routine. Sounds like a real pain. The converter sounds like a step in the right direction, but why can't SA just mack a STB that outputs the correct signal on S-video? There's no way this converter with STB set at 480i, can look as good as STB at 1080i (is there?).

I actually canceled my order realizing the device didn't do the scaling. IMO the downscaling to 480i that the SA8300 does looks horrible with jagged lines and weird artifacts popping up. So even if I did have a dvd recorder with component, it appears the SA8300's 480i really sucks.

My SA8300HD does an excellent job with HD at 480i. As a matter of fact the best SD recordings I have seen have been from an HD channel at 480i compared to recording from an SD analog or digital channel.

Now that being said recording from an HD channel at 480i is still standard definition. Scalers are available but are pretty pricey - ~ $300. And I'm not sure the scaling will be any better than what the SA8300HD does. Maybe, but it is still going to be 480i.

There must be an easier way... I hear what you're saying about downscaling to 480i, but that only applies to HD content. I have a SA 3250 and Panny E80H, and haven't tried the rebbot at 480i, do your recording, then reboot back to 1080i routine. Sounds like a real pain. The converter sounds like a step in the right direction, but why can't SA just mack a STB that outputs the correct signal on S-video? There's no way this converter with STB set at 480i, can look as good as STB at 1080i (is there?).

You may be confusing aspect ratio with the output formats of the SA3250HD. Changing the output formats (480i 480p 720p 1080i) on the SA3250HD should be easy and is included in the settings menus.

Remember all DVD recorders in the US are standard definition recorders that must only have a 480i source. So when recording from the SA3250HD it must be set at 480i. Again this should be easy to adjust.

Aspect ratio (4:3 16x9) is when the fun begins. Much of this discussion is on how to get a full wide screen 16x9 image recorded by the DVD recorder. Full widescreen content is broadcast on HD channels. When this content is output from the SA3250HD via svideo from a widescreen HD channel letterboxing is introduced. It is assumed that this signal (because it is svideo) is being sent to a 4:3 television. This does not look right on a 16x9 display.

So the trick is to record from the SA3250HD's component output. Most DVD recorders do not have component input. So converting the component output to svideo is required for full widescreen recording using the svideo inputs on a typical DVD recorder.

Also as you noted you can sometimes force a Scientific Atlanta STB into different aspect ratios by doing hard resets. I know this is possible on some SA8300HD models that are running SARA software. I do not know if this will work for the SA3250HD.

OK, I am a bit confused. I know you need to go to the hard reboot routine for the STB to recognize the various aspect ratios, I have mine set at 480i-w, 480p-w, 1080i (I think). I read that to get the s-video port to output 480i, the STB needed to be rebooted to only 480i-s. I can't even get SD programs without letterboxing out of the S-video port of the STB. I'm just trying to get rid of the top and bottom bars on SD stuff, HD is "the next step" (which I realize that $99 gizmo is needed). Could be some setting on the E80H I'm missing... I haven't tried the reboot with ONLY 480i set, that just seems to much a pain (takes 30 minutes for a reboot).

The Apple TV converter is on backorder, so I cancelled my order and went another route. I purchased the Pinnacle "PCTV to go" and I'm now able to record widescreen HD movies directly from my Cablevision set-top box to my PC with no problems. The end recordings are MPEG-2 (adjustable quality) and the flags remain intact. Even though the finished product isn't HD, they're comparable to a nicely-authored studio DVD.

And the Pinnacle product offers many other great features; It's definitely worth a look.

Nextoo,
I just found a Phillips brand HDTV converter @ walmart $24.99? It has component-in and s-video out! On the box it says "pass-though"? I'm assuming this is a pipe dream, probably doesn't read the 16:9 "flag" and I still need the $100 converter? I haven't purchased it yet, any ideas or feedback from anyone would be great!! Now that I'm hooked on HDTV, I'm still trying to see the true benefit of 16:9 using the DVD-RAM in my Panny ES-10 & 15? I still have the known issues with the TWC SA8300HD and the "Passport" software.
Thanks!!

had1,

The unit I saw at WalMart was actually a selector switch, with component, s-video and composite iinputs (and audio). It had the same outputs, but I believe the "pass through" you refer to means that component in goes only to component out, s-video in to s-video out, etc.

It would be nice if I were wrong.

I agree. It will not convert from component to svideo. I have one. Yes it is a passive A/V selector switch.

Thanks,
I knew it was too good to be true!

FWIW, if you don't mind the extra STB (which could for all intents and purposes be hidden away somewhere) a lot of the Philips/Magnavox products have component ins and will convert to S-Video out. I'm currently using a Philips DVDR77 (I think) between my SA8300HD and Sony RDR-GX330. I think I paid $40 or so for it off fleabay and it works like a charm. Doesn't seem to degrade the picture at all, and it seems to consistantly play nice with the activity I have set up in my Harmony remote that uses it.

Great suggestion. Here's a couple threads that list some models:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=775235

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=761474

The converter in this thread does eliminate the need for another STB but going the DVD recorder route for the conversion is an excellent choice.

I see the Apple TV box also has composite out, has anyone tried recording to a VCR.. Looks like the price went up again..

Well, I just bought a Centerstage CS2 scaler and wondered how I could record to DVD/VCR from it.. I think the Apple TV box will work.. Great Find..


Thanks, Brent

Nextoo,
So really what I'm gaining over "S-Video" by using "Component In" is (I don't know if this is the right word to use?) "Native" 16:9 and a little better color separation (three with component vs. two with S-video), which may give me a slightly better picture, but both are still recorded in 480i correct??
Thanks for your help!
had1

I agree. It will not convert from component to svideo. I have one. Yes it is a passive A/V selector switch.
i looked at these walmart jobbies and thought about getting one but i deduced that at that price , no way could it convert component to s video. thanx for verification.

Thanks Nextoo for the find and gj54 for the code. Just ordered one. The "svideo" code worked.

Love this forum! I just ordered one of these and the "SVIDEO" code still works for 10% off and shipping is free if you select it. Price is $129 currently (less 10% with code).

Thanks, Nextoo, for once again steering me in the right direction to a great find!

Ok, it looks like this thread died a year ago, but apparently this device is still necessary huh? The price went up yet again too. $139 now. Any other solutions? That's a bit pricey.

That's a bit pricey.
Even tho it also strips CP!?

jmystikcfl's post of last August pointed out that Component In and S-Video Out on his Philips DVDR77 does what everybody wants.

Philips and some other off-brand DVDRs of a few years ago were built with
- Component In/Out
- S-Video In/Out
- Composite In/Out
- RF In/Out

You don't even need the drive to function, just so long as the unit powers on the conversion should work.

Goodwill, ebay, or an Apple TV Converter at $130?

Those who have used the Apple TV Converter and a DVD recorder with component inputs, how would you compare their PQ?

I thought about looking for an older DVD recorder, but I recall some makes/models used incorrect black levels because North America use a different video black level than Japan. Has anyone noticed this problem? If so, which makes/models should I avoid?

Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know if there's a way to determine how much free disk space and the equivalent recording time is remaining on a 3576 hard drive? Thanks.

Any updates on this thing?

There's another converter on Ebay now...
Look up weesolutions on ebay. THat's the seller
"component converter"

http://site.allaboutadapters.com/webgraph/SDV2-Product.gif

Does anyone know if there's a way to determine how much free disk space and the equivalent recording time is remaining on a 3576 hard drive? Thanks.
On any TV Channel, press INFO button, look in bottom right corner of screen. Press Rec Mode button to see time at each mode.

I'm about to bite on one of these...

Anyone else have any advice?

It sure looks nicer than the Apple TV device. I like the brushed aluminum case. What's the price? If you get it please post back your impressions.

It sure looks nicer than the Apple TV device. I like the brushed aluminum case. What's the price? If you get it please post back your impressions.

$209 plus shipping.

It's made by Ambery.

http://www.ambery.com/covitocovisc.html

For some reason, I'm going towards the Ambery if only because there is a component pass-through that will remove macrovision. I don't know why I'd ever need it but I just feel like I might one day.

It's more expensive than the Apple device but it seems to do much more. AFAIK the other component to S-video adapter Nextoo talked about, it will only convert 480i component to 480i S-video. The device you linked looks like it will take 480i-1080p and both downconvert to 480i for S-video/composite and pass thru the native resolution. That sounds really nice and would sure work with something like the DTVPal DVR which does not output 480i via component, so the other converter wouldn't work while this one would.
If you don't mind I'm going to put your link in the other thread since the title of this thread is "cheaper" component to S-video converter. Yours isn't cheaper but sure sounds more flexible. Lastly, are you sure the Ambery device removes CP? Maybe I missed it but I didn't see it mentioned in your link.

If you don't mind I'm going to put your link in the other thread since the title of this thread is "cheaper" component to S-video converter. Yours isn't cheaper but sure sounds more flexible. Lastly, are you sure the Ambery device removes CP? Maybe I missed it but I didn't see it mentioned in your link.

Which other thread?

It's more expensive than the Apple device but it seems to do much more. AFAIK the other component to S-video adapter Nextoo talked about, it will only convert 480i component to 480i S-video. The device you linked looks like it will take 480i-1080p and both downconvert to 480i for S-video/composite and pass thru the native resolution. That sounds really nice and would sure work with something like the DTVPal DVR which does not output 480i via component, so the other converter wouldn't work while this one would.
If you don't mind I'm going to put your link in the other thread since the title of this thread is "cheaper" component to S-video converter. Yours isn't cheaper but sure sounds more flexible. Lastly, are you sure the Ambery device removes CP? Maybe I missed it but I didn't see it mentioned in your link.


It appears to be much better than the apple svideo converter for the reason you mention. It down converts a high definition source to 480i output. Plus it seems to offer high definition passthrough via component output simultaneously.

The apple svideo converter requires a 480i feed (it does not down convert) and some cableco boxes are now not providing a full widescreen image if the box is set to 480i - even via component output. So in these cases the apple svideo converter becomes useless.

As far as CP is concerned it seems that when a component input is converted to svideo the CP gets left behind. So pretty much any device that does this type of conversion eliminates any CP concern (edit - cableco/satco CP concern). This is probably the number one reason why DVD recorders with component inputs disappeared from the market as quickly as they did.

Which other thread?

:oThis was Nextoo's thread(the one I was thinking about). I hadn't remembered the title had "cheaper" in it. Sounds like you're going to be getting a very nice converter/CP remover. Let us know your impressions.

:oThis was Nextoo's thread(the one I was thinking about). I hadn't remembered the title had "cheaper" in it. Sounds like you're going to be getting a very nice converter/CP remover. Let us know your impressions.

I'm going to wait until I can (hopefully) get 25% off using live.com. We'll see

To be honest with you all, I just found out about this:
http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hdpvr.html

Since I was primariily looking to use it to archive HD stuff in 16x9, I'm just going to get this and archive in HD! :)

I just thought I would report that I bought the Ambery device listed here and it works great. Thanks digital freak for posting it.
I wish it didn't cost twice as much as the dvd recorder I'm using it with, but it does everything that it advertises so I'm happy. I can now record programs off my dvr in native widescreen format which is great.

I just thought I would report that I bought the Ambery device listed here and it works great. Thanks digital freak for posting it.
I wish it didn't cost twice as much as the dvd recorder I'm using it with, but it does everything that it advertises so I'm happy. I can now record programs off my dvr in native widescreen format which is great.Thanks for reporting back. So, to be clear does it indeed convert component HD down to anamorphic 480i via s-video?

Also, do you know if it preserves (or adds) a widescreen flag, and finally does it also strip copy protection?

Sorry about all the questions...I sent Ambery an email and they never responded.

Yes, it converts component HD video down to anamorphic 480i via s-video. This was the reason I purchased it.

When recording, it did not set the widescreen flag. I don't know if this is because of the Ambery device or if certain stations aren't accurate about setting it properly. Do all HD channels set this flag as Y? I have a Toshiba DR420 which can set this flag for me. When I left it to automatic, it did not work properly so I had to force it on the dvd recorder to turn the flag to set to widescreen. I actually purchased the Toshiba over the Panasonic because of this feature since this was the only company I could find that offered this.

I just got the device and havn't recorded too much, but it was ok recording Dollhouse from FOX and I think it was CNN HD or maybe it was another HD news channel. I'll do a couple tests tonight to see if there are any copy protection issues.

I'll do a couple tests tonight to see if there are any copy protection issues.Thank you! My Star Choice satellite receiver doesn't output anamorphic widescreen properly, and they're threatening to start including CP flags soon, so the Ambery unit would kill 2 birds with one stone. I look forward to hearing about the results.

I played with it a bit tonight but couldn't find anything at all that has copy protection from my DVR. I know there is copy protection when using firewire, but I tried a number of stations just using composite without using the Ambery box and all seemed to record ok so I don't have a benchmark to test with.

I have Verizon FIOS with digital cable, but no extra pay channels (HBO, Showtime, etc) so I wasn't able to try them.

I tried passing the output of a dvd player into the dvd recorder and it would not let me record that so I thought maybe I could try using that with the Ambery device. But I got no picture at all when passing through the Ambery device. I guess it has to be a high def signal for that to work.

I'm not sure what else I can try.

Thanks very much for all your efforts Spider12!

The only thing I can think of to test in your case would be: If your DVDR has a HDD and component out, you could connect the component out into the Ambery unit, and connect from the Ambery via composite or s-video to an input on the same DVDR. Then play a copy protected DVD and try to record to the HDD. That would confirm, but I don't know if you have the necessary cables, and you've already done more than enough.

Thanks again!

Has anyone seen or used this?

http://www.svideo.com/lkv7611.html

It’s from the same company that sells the Apple TV Component Video to S-video converter. But the Lenkeng LKV7611 is only $69.00 and appears to accept a whole bunch of video resolutions. I stumbled across this item while searching for something else. However it does not readily appear on svideo.com’s web site.

That is interesting, Mike. I'm looking at it and thinking, "What's the catch?" I don't get why the same company is selling 2 similar products where one is twice as expensive as the other. Perhaps this doesn't strip CP? I have no idea. :confused:

That is interesting, Mike. I'm looking at it and thinking, "What's the catch?" I don't get why the same company is selling 2 similar products where one is twice as expensive as the other. Perhaps this doesn't strip CP? I have no idea. :confused:

Those are my thoughts too. There could be a difference in video quality, but you never know. I've sent svideo.com an email asking what are the differences between the two products. I'll post the reply once I get it.

I just ordered the Lenkeng LKV7611 from S-Video.com and it should be here next week.
I'll let you know how it works trying to record from DirecTV HD Receiver/DVR to my Panasonic DVD Recorder via S-Video. I want to see if it passes the WideScreen flag and also if it seems to disable CPRM copy protection.

I'm still waiting for a reply from svideo.com. I figured I'd give them a week to reply, which will be tomorrow. Then I'd call them. I emailed them several months ago about a question I had on their more expensive converter but they never replied. That makes me a bit concerned about their customer service. Especially when their web site states to put "question" in the subject line of your email.

RonnieJP,

Please let us know how the LKV7611 works out.

I ended up calling svideo.com and asking what the differences are between their expensive $169 converter and the $69 one.

The person I spoke with said the expensive YPBPR2CSV model was made in the USA, military approved and can be put under water. I asked if he was serious & he said yes. With the proper cables it can be put underwater. The cheaper Lenkeng LKV7611 was more versatile because it accepted several input formats.

He said he has used both & cannot tell a difference in picture quality. I asked if they sell many of the Lenkeng model because it does not show up as readily on their web site. He said they sell about equal numbers of both. And there is a 30 day money back guarantee, but I would have to pay shipping.

RonnieJP,

Please let us know how your unit works.
Thanks in advance.

Geez, under water, that's a handy feature:D
What will they think of next:rolleyes: I think I'd save the Benjamin...

Mike99,

What I am more curious about is the difference between the Lenkeng and their other MR-YPBPR-AV Multi-Resolution converter which is on sale for $179.00.

It looks absolutely identical to the Lengeng!

RonnieJP

Mike99,

What I am more curious about is the difference between the Lenkeng and their other MR-YPBPR-AV Multi-Resolution converter which is on sale for $179.00.

It looks absolutely identical to the Lengeng!

RonnieJP


You're right, they sure look the same. I did notice under the description of the MR-YPBPR-AV there is an FBI Anti-Piracy warning. I wonder if it removes copy protection and the cheaper unit does not.

Let us know how your unit works out and then I'll call the company again & try to find out the difference.

Well, I received the Lenkeng unit yesterday. What was interesting is that the instruction/spec sheet in the box showed the model number as MR-YPBPR-AV.
Anyway, when I first hooked up the device, all I could get was a black & white image.
I finally discovered that the labeling for the PAL/NTSC slide switch is reversed, and what one would think would be the PAL position is actually NTSC. It did indeed downconvert all input resolutions to 480i. However, using my DirecTV Receiver/DVR as the source produced poor results with color banding, shifting and some interference patterns. I then tried it on an old non-upconverting Pioneer Elite DVD player (480p) the results were nearly perfect. So, I guess it just doesn't like the component output from my DirecTV receiver, which is what I inended to use it with. So, I really didn't get a chance to check the copy protection issue as I plan to return it for refund. But. it looks like depending on the component video source, it may work OK for some. YMMV.

Did you use the composite or S-video output of your Pio DVD player?
Did you check the output of the converter if you fed it 480i component instead of HD resolutions? IOW maybe the problem lies in the conversion from HD to SD.

RonnieJP,

That's too bad the Lenkeng did not work with your DirecTV. I was hoping this inexpensive unit would really be the "Cheaper Component to S-Video Converter". Since the paperwork in the box showed model MR-YPBPR-AV, I wonder what you really received. Is there any identification on the unit itself? If it happens to be a MR-YPBPR-AV, then spending an extra $100 for that model would not have made any difference.

It is possible that you have defective unit. Just a thought, perhaps contact the seller & explain that you have a color banding problem and see if they will exchange units, and hopefully send you a prepaid return label for your unit. Thereby costing you nothing to try another one.

You mentioned the results with the Pioneer were nearly perfect. Was there any particular problem that stood out?

Hi Guys,

There is a paper label on the unit with some numbers, but I think they relate to a production lot or perhaps serial number of some kind. I used it only from Component to S-Video - didn't try composite. I did try 480i, 480p. 720p and 1080i as the input resolution since my DirecTV box alllows be to switch manually. All the downconversion seemed fine. The color banding and shifting was the same no matter what the input resolution. My old Pioneer does not upconvert, so output is fixed at 480p and it looked very good when that was the source. So, I don't think the converter is defective, it just may be somewhat sensitive to a particular input device. On my Pioneer DVD player, it looks great; on my DirecTV Receiver, pretty poor. Since they did not even wince when I asked them for an RMA number to return it for credit, it's probably worth a try.

I thought the converters above were expensive 'till I saw this hot mess on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=120363399309

:eek:

I thought the converters above were expensive 'till I saw this hot mess on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=120363399309

:eek:
If you start reading from page two, this product has already been mentioned. Yeah it’s pricy, but it does what everyone here is hoping it would do AND you can pass the HD signal to your HDTV. I was hoping that spider12 would have reported back to see if it “truly” does strip the copy protection. Not that I need to strip copy protection at this point but in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1149753 ) people are getting copy protection on ABC from their OTA source….. Something to think about as we near the “final transition date”…………

I will probably have one of these in the next month or two.....
:)

I thought the converters above were expensive 'till I saw this hot mess on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=120363399309

:eek:

The $69 one is cheap compared to anything else I've seen. If you do an Internet search you'll find the $169 version to probably be the next cheapest. It's not just a matter of changing the pin connections, you need some electronics. And you have a limited market, so there is no real sales volume such as selling recorders or TVs. From plans I found about a year ago on building one, IIRC it would cost over $69 for the parts. Of course that was for ordering single quantities of parts.

Thanks to comments in this topic I am able to get my unit working.

Yes, the video converter unit is definitely "receiver sensitive".

I am outputting component video from a Motorola DCT-6200 STB. I first tried S-video and composite output to a Hauppauge PVR-150 26xxx. The picture looked like a weak over-the-air SD transmission. After reading your forum, I tried the output to a Hauppauge HVR-1600 and it works! Coloring is good but not great and definition is good. I am recording to Sagetv software.

I finally discovered that the labeling for the PAL/NTSC slide switch is reversed, and what one would think would be the PAL position is actually NTSC. It did indeed downconvert all input resolutions to 480i.

Hi, this is Jane from Lenkeng. If you are referring to our product Component to S-Video converter, I have something to say:

1. It is not because of bad design of our product, but it depends on the fact that the resolution of Component Video can up to 1080P, while resolution of S-Video is typically at 480i or 576i resolution. (Refer to wikipedia)

As long as it is a product that converts Component Video to S-Video, the output resolution has to be 480i or 576i.

If you want a higher resolution output, we suggest you use our Component to HDMI Converter LKV351, which is a product with real scaler, the output resolution is fixed at 720P. And LENKENG also has a powerful product that converts all kinds of video, like composite video, component video, s-video, vga, scart, HDMI 720p, 1080P to HDMI 1080P, P/N. is LKV391.

2. We have found the mistake of PAL/NTSC reversion for long and the new version has all been revised. If the reversed products influence usage, please return them to our distributors and we will bear the responsibility.

To be added, LENKENG is a factory, a responsible factory.

I am sorry I am a Chinese and don't speak good English. Maybe my English sounds strange.

Have a good day,

Jane

Jane, we always like to hear from manufacturers around here, so thanks for posting! Your English isn't bad, I think everyone will understand it.

Dropping the resolution during conversion is not a problem, we want that. We are using these converters, converting component to S-Vid, so that we can make anamorphic DVDs. Most cable boxes only output a letter-boxed signal on S-Vid, but output an anamorphic signal over component outputs. However, DVD recorders typically do not have component inputs, only S-Vid, and composite inputs. So, we use your converters to make the anamorphic signal recordable by the DVD recorder.

Jane,
Thank you for your comments.

Are you saying that if a 480i component input signal is used then there should be no problem obtaining a 480i S-Video output signal?

The $69 one is cheap compared to anything else I've seen. If you do an Internet search you'll find the $169 version to probably be the next cheapest. It's not just a matter of changing the pin connections, you need some electronics. And you have a limited market, so there is no real sales volume such as selling recorders or TVs. From plans I found about a year ago on building one, IIRC it would cost over $69 for the parts. Of course that was for ordering single quantities of parts.

To be added first, the product in the ebay link is not Lenkeng Product.

Excuse me, but we don't have a DirecTV Receiver/DVR in China and had not seen such a thing before. Is it IPTV? What's the output resolution of it?

Unless you're stuck with an older device for some reason, I don't see why you'd spend the money on these converters when you can get decent flatscreen tvs for under $200 now. If you have an analog big-screen tv that you can't part with, or some kind of installation that you don't want to re-do, I can see that; but HDTVs are so cheap these days, especially for bedroom sizes, you might want to think about that.

Unless you're stuck with an older device for some reason, I don't see why you'd spend the money on these converters when you can get decent flatscreen tvs for under $200 now. If you have an analog big-screen tv that you can't part with, or some kind of installation that you don't want to re-do, I can see that; but HDTVs are so cheap these days, especially for bedroom sizes, you might want to think about that.

The typical Motorola HD STB only puts out a full screen wide screen 16:9 image from the HDMI & component outputs. Problem is that most DVD recorders do not have component inputs. Therefore you need to use the Motorola's S-video or composite outputs if you want to record from it. But these outputs send out a letterbox image with not only black letterbox bars but also black pillarbox bars. So you end up recording a small floating postage stamp picture & wasting a lot of recording pixels on recording all the black bars.

What is needed is a high quality converter to convert the STB's FS WS 16:9 component output to S-Video so that a recorder is using all of its pixels to record a picture, not a bunch of black.

Unless you're stuck with an older device for some reason, I don't see why you'd spend the money on these converters when you can get decent flatscreen tvs for under $200 now.I don't relish doing my main TV watching on a 19", 16:9 screen.

Bump.

Looking for the latest and greatest affordable comonent to S-video converter for the USA market. Is the SVideo brand AppleTV converter (now $149) the best bet, or what is better/cheaper?

Bump.

Looking for the latest and greatest affordable comonent to S-video converter for the USA market. Is the SVideo brand AppleTV converter (now $149) the best bet, or what is better/cheaper?

Read through this thread about the Lenkeng which is quite a bit cheaper. Also look in "Comcast HD STB as tuner for DVDR" thread that’s currently active re Lenkeng.

Well, I received the Lenkeng unit yesterday. What was interesting is that the instruction/spec sheet in the box showed the model number as MR-YPBPR-AV.
Anyway, when I first hooked up the device, all I could get was a black & white image.
I finally discovered that the labeling for the PAL/NTSC slide switch is reversed, and what one would think would be the PAL position is actually NTSC. It did indeed downconvert all input resolutions to 480i. However, using my DirecTV Receiver/DVR as the source produced poor results with color banding, shifting and some interference patterns. I then tried it on an old non-upconverting Pioneer Elite DVD player (480p) the results were nearly perfect. So, I guess it just doesn't like the component output from my DirecTV receiver, which is what I inended to use it with. So, I really didn't get a chance to check the copy protection issue as I plan to return it for refund. But. it looks like depending on the component video source, it may work OK for some. YMMV.

Updated review for anyone considering the Lenkeng Video Converter (alternately referred to as either LKV7611 or "YPBPR to AV". I just bought one, and I am quite disappointed - my results were very similar to those above, although my NTSC/PAL switch was labeled correctly.

I have problems with both color banding/interference and reduced brightness of the output. The color banding/interference problem is ONLY on the s-vid out and does not appear on the composite out. I can confirm, however, that there is no copy protection on either output signal.

I tested with component output from several DVD players and my high definition TiVo. I checked the Video Converter output side-by-side with the raw s-vid output from each test box for PQ when either used as input to a Panasonic EA18 DVD recorder or fed directly into a Sony plasma TV.
When viewed directly on the plasma TV, the s-vid output PQ is just slightly worse than the s-vid feed taken directly from any of the source units (about on par with a straight composite feed). The composite output of the Video Converter is almost identical to the direct feed composite, but it actually looks just a tiny bit better when viewed very close to the screen due to slight blurring of the jagged edges. When fed directly into the TV, neither Video Converter output signals showed any color banding/interference or brightness shift. Bottom line is that when fed directly into my Sony plasma TV, BOTH Video Converter outputs looked identical and of similar quality to unaltered composite output, but without any copy protection signal. Unfortunately, there is absolutely no reason to ever feed the output of the Video Converter directly into a TV, so this has no value!

When output from the Video Converter was fed into a Panasonic EA18 DVD recorder, the results were completely unsatisfactory. Both the composite and s-vid outputs were considerably darker than a direct s-vid or composite feed, causing skin tones to be quite orange. In addition to that problem, the s-vid output exhibited significant color banding/interference patterns (which were there on both the pass-through video and on a recorded DVD. Although the Video Converter does allow one to record copy protected sources, such as a commercial DVD or flagged cable signals, this is meaningless because the result, at least on my EA18 recorder, is unacceptable!

The new TiVos no longer have any s-vid outputs at all, and many cable companies are copy protecting virtually all signals, so I had hoped this would be a cost effective solution. Alas no; it is worthless. This is one of those situations where you get less than you pay for. I hope this information helps prevent others from wasting $50 on this thing.
Goose

Thanks for the info V7Goose. Of course, I just placed an order yesterday for the Lenkeng. ;)

It is strange that it is fine going straight to the TV, but poor going into the DVD Recorder. I knew when I placed the order that this could very well be another example of why I should just spend more and do things right the first time, but the $50 "solution" lured me in as opposed to the $150-$200 solutions. I guess I'll see when mine shows up. This will be fed from an SA 8300HD into a Pioneer DVR-660 in my case.

It probably won't help things but worth a try. The Panasonic should have several settings for input adjustments. One is in the FUNCTIONS, OTHER FUNCTIONS, SETUP, VIDEO menu. I always have mine set for, DARKER for S-vid/composite input. Lighter is way too light. You should also check the DISPLAY button when displaying the line input. It should have settings for line input such as ability to turn on/off the NR as well as sharpness control.
I'm going off what ES series Panasonics have, forgive me if the EAs don't have such settings but I'd think they would.

All filters will probably degrade the picture a little, my Sima has no banding problems but does slightly brighten the darks even with my Pannys set to DARKER, set to LIGHTER it really looks awful. Funny thing I just noticed the other day, if the source has MV the picture will be a tad to light, if the source has no CP the output will look fine. I would have though it would be always lighter but that's not the case.

Thanx for the ideas, jjef, but I had already tried all that with no change at all. The EA18 is quite similar to the ES series, so most of what you know about them translates over just fine. I haven't taken the time yet to test this POS with my motorola HD cable box, but I have no reason to suspect it might be any different than my TiVo or DVD players. But since it does not have the same problems with the plasma TV, it might work better with a different recorder. Unfortunately, I don't have any other DVD recorders with s-vid inputs right now, so I'm looking forward to someone else reporting on their experience. Even if it works with some other recorder, that won't do much for me, since nothing else currently has the PQ of the EA or ES Panasonics.
Goose

Well Goose, thanks to your post, I shot off an e-mail to Deal Extreme, and was able to cancel my order for the Lenkeng converter. It might have ended up working fine with my setup, but I'll probably just bite the bullet and get the Apple TV converter from svideo.com. Hope you get your situation sorted out.

Well Goose, thanks to your post, I shot off an e-mail to Deal Extreme, and was able to cancel my order for the Lenkeng converter. It might have ended up working fine with my setup, but I'll probably just bite the bullet and get the Apple TV converter from svideo.com. Hope you get your situation sorted out.
Check out item 1 in the list of converters here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12371974&postcount=62#WS5) as a possiblity at 1/3 the price of the Apple? Not nearly as much info as on the Apple, but ???

Thanks wajo, but that is the Lenkeng converter that Goose bought and disliked due to banding and other issues (as did the earlier poster). That is the exact one that I had ordered from Deal Extreme, and cancelled. Trust me, at $52.50, it was tempting and I'd love to spend that instead of the $150 for the Apple TV one or $200 for the Ambery one. I'm just not convinced that the Lenkeng is up to the others in doing this conversion.

Thanks wajo, but that is the Lenkeng converter that Goose bought and disliked due to banding and other issues (as did the earlier poster). That is the exact one that I had ordered from Deal Extreme, and cancelled. Trust me, at $52.50, it was tempting and I'd love to spend that instead of the $150 for the Apple TV one or $200 for the Ambery one. I'm just not convinced that the Lenkeng is up to the others in doing this conversion.
Thanks for the heads-up... I looked to make sure it wasn't Lenkeng but apparently overlooked their name. After this, I'm going to remove it from the list!

wajo, totally up to you, but you might keep that Lenkeng listed, but with the caveat that there are reports of banding and other video issues in the conversion process, with some STB's and DVD recorders. Again, I haven't used one, but this does seem to be a possible issue with the Lenkeng. At $52, it still may be worth a try for someone willing to take a shot, and who doesn't want to shell out the $150 or $200 for a different option.

In my case, I am now leaning towards the Ambery model. If what Nextoo said is correct, that with the SA 8300HD, I'd have to keep setting my output to 480i in order to send my HD recordings to my DVD recorder, that may be too much of a pain for me. The Ambery seems to be a converter that you can connect, and then just leave your usual settings where they are. That convenience may be worth the extra $50 to me over the svideo.com Apple TV model.

More good info and good suggestions. I esp. like your logic on going for the Ambery, which others might benefit from in making their decision.

Thanks!

Thanks wajo, but that is the Lenkeng converter that Goose bought and disliked due to banding and other issues (as did the earlier poster). That is the exact one that I had ordered from Deal Extreme, and cancelled. Trust me, at $52.50, it was tempting and I'd love to spend that instead of the $150 for the Apple TV one or $200 for the Ambery one. I'm just not convinced that the Lenkeng is up to the others in doing this conversion.

Just confirming that this is indeed the same item I bought (and I bought it from Deal Extreme also). Just like Jeffrey, I was seduced by the low price and hope that we might actually have found a great little solution to a big problem. I'm just thankful it was only a $52 lesson instead of a $152 lesson! At least at that price I don't mind letting it sit in the drawer in case I somehow find a need for it where it actually works in the future. Good luck all,
Goose

Goose, don't forget that most people likely have no idea that the Lenkeng converter is available at Deal Extreme for $52, and it is in fact priced higher at other outlets. So I think you'd likely make your money back if you wanted to list it on ebay.

V7Goose, I don't know if you were just unlucky, or I was just lucky, but I have been using a Lenkeng for months now, between my Comcast Moto 6412 and my Pio 640. I have noticed no color banding, or problems whatsoever. The picture was just a tiny bit darker, in side-by-side comparisons with the component picture, using my PIP. But, the Pio offers a full range of picture adjustments on its inputs, so I adjusted for that. I have made MANY anamorphic DVDs with it, and all have been good, better than zooming a LB picture. My only complaint is that there is just a tiny bit of vertical stretching, unnoticeable except in my side-by-side comparisons.

I am glad to hear that it strips copy protection! I have meant to try that, but temporary rewiring with my system is a PITA, so I haven't done it. But, now that I know I can use it to make a PAL>NTSC conversion with my Oppo 980 of the 1986 Australian film Bliss, which is unavailable in NTSC, I will set up and do that!

Hi, newbie here. I also bought the $52.00 Lenkeng converter. Have had the same problem as other people here,with a pic. so dark as to be unwatchable no matter what adjustments i make. Then i hooked up my Sima ct-2 in tandem w/ the Lenkeng converter and PRESTO! instant perfect pic. I don't know why it works,but it does. So my $ isn't wasted afterall,and i get the proper AR from my sat. receiver box,and can record to any of my 3 dvdr's. So if u have a video filter it will make your converter work like it should.

AN UPDATE: Using a phillips 3576H DVDR to record a movie, i found that i must view the movie thru the s-video or component video of my tv's inputs. Using HDMI produces poor results like pillarboxing, letterboxing,or a postage stamp. Also a very dark screen image,even when using a Sima CT-2 between the Lenkeng converter and dvdr. Using the Sima VF and viewing tv thru any input other than HDMI produces very good results.

Anyone tried the AV Toolbox VS-223? If so please provide comments. Thanks.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/679153-REG/AV_Toolbox_VS_223_VS_223_Component_to_CS_SV.html

This device looks exactly like the Ambery Down Converter which did not work for me and my cable HD box (Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300HD).

I think with any of these devices the main priority should be how generous the return policy is. If it doesn't work for you and you can't return it, it doesn't matter how cheap it was, it was wasted money.
I was going to say it looked rather well built and the case even looked similar to another high quality(but expensive) converter that was made of aluminum. Of course I'm just going off the photo, which could be deceiving. IMO if they take the effort to make the case out of metal(especially Au) hopefully that quality should carry on to the innards, but again I have no proof of this.

I own the Ambery unit and it works great for me. The only thing I was unhappy about was the cost. Not sure what the problem was JoRodd, but it worked as advertised for me.

I own the Ambery unit and it works great for me. The only thing I was unhappy about was the cost. Not sure what the problem was JoRodd, but it worked as advertised for me.

Did you see any reduction in brightness or changes in color? Does it remove copy protection?

Well it finally came in stock! Who's going to be the first to try one out?? I'd be interested to here how it handles CP......
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011407&p_id=7114&seq=1&format=2

Well if finally came in stock! Who's going to be the first to try one out?? I'd be interested to here how it handles CP......
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011407&p_id=7114&seq=1&format=2

It seems that is just a Monoprice rebadged Lenkeng LKV-7611. Not sure if there is any practical difference. I may give it a shot through Monoprice though.

I agree about it being a Lenkeng clone although at least one member has had good luck with his Lenkeng(a few others haven't) but with MP the shipping isn't unreasonable and if it's a dud returning it shouldn't be a problem.

It seems that is just a Monoprice rebadged Lenkeng LKV-7611. Not sure if there is any practical difference. I may give it a shot through Monoprice though.
They do look alike except for the order of the RGB inputs and the price (http://www.svideo.com/lkv7611.html)(almost 1/2-price at Monoprice).

If you try one, please post your impressions... lots of people will want to know! :D

They do look alike except for the order of the RGB inputs and the price (http://www.svideo.com/lkv7611.html)(almost 1/2-price at Monoprice).

If you try one, please post your impressions... lots of people will want to know! :D

Well, don't forget about the $50 one at Deal Extreme.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22844

The Lenkeng in its various forms can be had for $50 elsewhere. But again, I'd feel a bit better ordering the Monoprice version. Though it might be worth a call to check if it is simply a rebadged Lenkeng.

They do look alike except for the order of the RGB inputs ....

Good catch, that is odd......wonder if it's why some people are having problems with the Lenkeng, maybe the connectors are mislabeled?
The brick power supplies are also different, the MP one is 5v 2a and horizontal while the Extreme Deals one is 5v 1a and vertical.

Upon further reading it looks like the Extreme Deals one outputs both S-video and composite(and lists that as a feature) while the MP one has a switch and I assume only outputs one or the other(although it's features also list -Simultaneously output Composite Video and S-Video......then why would they need the switch?...
The MP converter is model LKV-7611 sure sounds like LenKengVideo...

Dear AVS Forum,

I wish to start recording material I've recorded to my cable box to DVDs (I'm getting rid of Time Warner and switching to Fios, so if I don't move my you-know-what I will lose hours of irreplaceable material). I wish to record them in widescreen (though I realize the recordings would still be SD). Many of these items are longer than will fit on a standard DVD at SP speed (2 hrs. 20 mins. is the max at that speed, as I understand), operas, news events, and so on. So I will be using LP for a lot of the material.

So I have three questions: 1) Are there certain DVD recorders which have a well-deserved reputation of giving better quality at the slower speeds than others?
2) I heard an unpleasant rumor from someone that one CANNOT record widescreen on DVDs at any speed less than SP. Please tell me this is not true.
3) Finally I am looking for a DVD recorder that would do particularly well quality-wise in upconverting my widescreen SD recordings to HD playback through its HDMI or component outputs.

Before anyone expresses concern that this is slightly off-topic, let me hasten to add that I cannot use the S-video out either of my old Time Warner cable box or my new Fios box, since both put out letterbox instead of widescreen with HD material. Consequently, in addition to a good DVD recorder, I am also in the market for a good HD component to S-video converter. Two things in particular are important for me in this regard:
1) First, I would like the converter to be able to handle HD component as well as SD component so I will not have to downgrade my cable box's output to 480i every time I record to a DVD.
2) I would also like the converter to create a halfway-house output on its S-Video and its composite output side, one where the signal has been downgraded to 480i but where the screen raster has NOT been downsized to anamorphic 4x3 or to letterbox 4x3, but rather has been allowed to remain in widescreen 16x9 mode.

Hope all the above makes sense, and I look forward to hearing from you.

Best wishes,

Charles

They do look alike except for the order of the RGB inputs and the price (http://www.svideo.com/lkv7611.html)(almost 1/2-price at Monoprice).

If you try one, please post your impressions... lots of people will want to know! :D

I'm seriously thinking of getting one. I am one of the two or three people who have had good luck with a Lenkeng. I ordered mine from Deal extreme. It was cheap, but it took a while to get here from China. I trust Monoprice. I think that if they are carrying them, they have tried them, and found that they work. If they don't Monoprice will take them back.

Currently, I have one hooked up to a Comcast Motorola DCX3400. It allows me to make anamorphic DVDs with my Pio 640. If I get a second, it will go between my Oppo PAL>NTSC converting DVD player and my 640. I am assuming that this converter will strip copy protection, just as the Lenkeng does, so I can make dubs of copy protected DVDs, including PAL ones.

I am assuming that this converter will strip copy protection, just as the Lenkeng does, so I can make dubs of copy protected DVDs, including PAL ones.

I don't think this converter strips CP but rather I believe component may not have CP, I could be wrong.

Criggs,
1. Panasonic is the only current recorder that will record much over 2hrs(up to 4hrs) and still retain full D1 resolution. Personally I try and not go much over 2hrs 42 minutes, maybe up to 3hrs, otherwise macroblocking in areas of fast movement becomes a problem. Since Panasonic jumps from 2hrs(SP) to 4hrs(LP) in it's canned speeds, you must use FR for inbetween speeds. FR isn't as handy as a canned speed for DVDs with multiple titles but with a little figuring it can be done quite easily.

2. The Lenkeng converter does not have passthru for component but this (http://www.ambery.com/covitocovisc.html) one seems to, although at $209 it's much more expensive(and looks better made) than the others.

It seems like the Ambrey converter will do everything you want, although it's the most expensive. If you could get by without the component passthru I'd give the Lenkeng from MP a try.

Note no current US DVDR will set the Wide Screen bit. What this means is if you record wide screen material to DVD and then play that DVD back on a old 4:3 TV the picture won't be letterboxed but rather everyone will look tall and skinny(the whole 16:9 image will be inside a 4:3 frame. If you only have 16:9 TVs(like I do) this won't be a issue and you'll get nice 16:9 recordings. Some people use a computer and program to set the bit after the recording.
In your case you could get buy with the cheaper line input EA-18 or easier to find EZ-28 with tuner both from Panasonic.
If you wanted to go with a international Panasonic w/HDD (from $250(floor model)and up)), they would set the WS bit and also make FR recordings much easier.

I don't think this converter strips CP but rather I believe component may not have CP, I could be wrong.


I believe that component can carry CP, just the same as S-Vid, and composite, but it is a different CP than that used in HDMI. But I, too, could be wrong.

What I do recall is that another poster using a Lenkeng tried to copy a commercial DVD with CP, and was able to do it. I can't copy the S-Vid output from my DVD player, of CP DVDs.

I believe that component can carry CP, just the same as S-Vid, and composite, but it is a different CP than that used in HDMI...
Yes, CP in component us very different than CP in HDMI. First, remember that HDMI is a digital interface, where composite, S-Video, and component are all analog formats.

I heard of using a component to USB device in order to get the HD from a cable box to your PC. I did some searching but only found composite to USB converters. Does anyone know of one with component inputs? Obviously you would need a PC, but it may be worth the extra step if you really wanted a program in full screen 16:9.

I heard of using a component to USB device in order to get the HD from a cable box to your PC. I did some searching but only found composite to USB converters. Does anyone know of one with component inputs? Obviously you would need a PC, but it may be worth the extra step if you really wanted a program in full screen 16:9.

Yes they are available. I can’t vouch for any of ‘em but they are out there.
Here is one with component to usb from Black Magic for $149.
http://www.blackmagic-design.com/products/videorecorder/

Criggs,
1. Panasonic is the only current recorder that will record much over 2hrs(up to 4hrs) and still retain full D1 resolution...Since Panasonic jumps from 2hrs(SP) to 4hrs(LP) in it's canned speeds, you must use FR for inbetween speeds. FR isn't as handy as a canned speed for DVDs with multiple titles but with a little figuring it can be done quite easily.

Well, I gotta say I'm starting to get a tad frustrated.

After combing through online reviews I had found the CNet Panasonic EA18k review compelling and reassuring. I can't get one in my local brick-and-mortar store (I prefer buying items like this in person to online), but there are plenty of stores which sell the one just above that with the tuner, the EZ28K.

But then I read all the user reviews. --

-- and their take is TOTALLY DIFFERENT. Again and again they excoriate this line of Panasonics as unreliable, slow-operating, junk. Again and again, it seems, they treat us to the same horror story where these Panasonic units are concerned: beautiful picture, and the unit dies 1 to 6 months after purchase. And this is all so DESPITE the fact that there is universal agreement that the Panasonic LP speed blows away the competition, hands down.

So I'm back to the drawing board. I guess what I now want to know is what is the SECOND-BEST LP speed available on the market, since the Panasonics are apparently made of extraordinarily high-grade and dramatically superior tissue paper.

2. The Lenkeng converter does not have passthru for component but this other one from Ambery seems to, although at $209 it's much more expensive(and looks better made) than the others. It seems like the Ambrey converter will do everything you want, although it's the most expensive. If you could get by without the component passthru I'd give the Lenkeng from MP a try.

The component pass-through strikes me as an expensive bell-and-whistle, one I don't really need. One of the nice things about the Verizon Motorola is that it feeds simultaneously out of the HDMI and the component outputs. So what I'm thinking of doing is leaving the HDMI connected to my HDTV, connecting the component out to my converter, connecting the S-Video out of the converter to my DVD recorder, and then connecting the HD component out of the recorder to the component in of my HDTV

Yes, my component input on my HDTV will then NOT be true HD, since the DVD recorder only records in SD. But who cares? I can always switch to the HDMI input for that.

Which is why I went with the Video Converter from Sewell, for $50 (is that the same as the Lenkeng?). The cheapness makes me nervous, but if it turns out to be a lemon at least I'm only out $50 rather than $150. By the way, some of these HD component to S-Video converters also helpfully constrain the video in the 4:3 space, which is obviously what I DON'T want. I called the manufacturers of ALL SEVEN CURRENTLY AVAILABLE HD COMPONENT TO S-VIDEO CONVERTERS, and discovered some do force into 4:3, others don't. Sewell insists theirs doesn't, and so does SVIDEO about their Apple TV Converter. Another nice thing about SVIDEO is that they now have a Converter that accepts HD component. So, if the Sewell unit doesn't work out, I'm figuring on going with the Apple. And no one answered the phone at Ambery, in spite of repeated calls during business hours.

Speaking of which, how's this for a question. If I succeed in making all my recordings in widescreen, what difference does it make if I watch my recordings using the S-Video input on my HDTV or the component input on my HDTV? Since it's all SD anyway, and since the S-Video output is already widescreen, will there still be a discernible difference in quality? In fact, might it not be superior, considering the fact that the HD component out might have artifacts resulting from the "upconvert"?

What this means is if you record wide screen material to DVD and then play that DVD back on a old 4:3 TV the picture won't be letterboxed but rather everyone will look tall and skinny(the whole 16:9 image will be inside a 4:3 frame. If you only have 16:9 TVs(like I do) this won't be a issue and you'll get nice 16:9 recordings.

This is EXACTLY my situation. The only TV I have is HD 16:9. So are you saying this means that I will NEVER have to worry about making any sort of adjustment on the DVD recorder, or tweaking or toggling ANY of its parameters? That as long as I succeed in feeding it widescreen SD I'm good to go no matter what? And that it will never make any difference whether I use DVD-R or DVD+R or DVR-RW of DVR+RW or DVD-RAM?

And, as along as we're talking about DVD formats, in what flavors are Dual Layer available?

I also understand that using VR mode minimizes the likelihood of falling afoul of copy protection. Is it possible to record in VR mode on a Dual Layer DVD? Are there any DVD formats where it is IMPOSSIBLE to record in VR mode?

Also, I've read a few remarks about how sometimes, after finalizing, the Panasonic will play back a widescreen SD recording in anamorphic, squeezed, SD rather than full 16:9 SD. If that's the case with other units as well, can I get away with NEVER finalizing a disc?

Also, what's this I hear about NO WIDESCREEN RECORDING being possible if the speed is less than SP?

Some people use a computer and program to set the bit after the recording.
In your case you could get buy with the cheaper line input EA-18 or easier to find EZ-28 with tuner both from Panasonic.
If you wanted to go with a international Panasonic w/HDD (from $250(floor model)and up)), they would set the WS bit and also make FR recordings much easier.

I want to get the cheapest DVD recorder possible that 1) is reasonably long-lasting, durable and reliable and 2) gives decent quality at LP. I don't care if it doesn't have a hard drive, and I frankly don't care about the onboard tuner either, since I'm keeping my Verizon DVR, and can always feed that direct to the recorder. That's why the 18 was my original first choice over the 28, and the reason I briefly flirted with the 28 was only because it was available from the big reliable stores in New York (J&R, Best Buy, and so on).

Of course, now that I know that the Panasonics have the lifespan of a mayfly, I guess I'm back to square 1.

Don't over think this. You'll never find the perfect recorder. I've made hundreds of DVD's on my EZ-27 which by all accounts sucks. I got it for $30 on ebay, so if it eventually croaks, no big loss. But it still works perfectly. I think most who have see bugs and reliability problems are those who use these daily as DVR's. When you take tuners and timers out of the mix, problems go way down. If I were you, I'd grab whatever cheap panny I could find and move on with my life.

Don't over think this. You'll never find the perfect recorder. I've made hundreds of DVD's on my EZ-27 which by all accounts sucks. I got it for $30 on ebay, so if it eventually croaks, no big loss. But it still works perfectly. I think most who have see bugs and reliability problems are those who use these daily as DVR's. When you take tuners and timers out of the mix, problems go way down. If I were you, I'd grab whatever cheap panny I could find and move on with my life.

First of all, thank you for your honesty and your genuine desire to help me out of a situation that seems to be taking up more energy than I had originally expected.

However, to be frank, I'm interested in purchasing something that I can depend on to be around for half a decade or so. In line with that, I want to buy a new unit, not a refurbished/resold/ebay "find", though I acknowledge that very good deals of that sort are out there.

So, assuming that Panasonics are non-starters and that used recorders are non-starters, which would you recommend, assuming that, in addition to the criteria I laid out in my previous message, I also would like a unit with a reasonable reputation for longevity?

Thanks very much for thinking about this; I appreciate it!

Just recd new monoprice converter. Initial tests positive.
CPRM removed. No color banding. Pic is NOT dark or blurry, as others have reported when using the Lenkeng filter. Seems normal.

Undecided whether recorded pic is "softer". Test content is "soft" to begin with. More testing needed.

Details of initial test.
U-verse HDD receiver is new Cisco unit, with 250gb HDD.
No coax in U-verse network.

Output from U-verse receiver set to 480i for initial tests.
Then to 1080i briefly for more testing.

U-verse content recorded via MP converter was copy-protected Chiller TV show (Twin Peaks pilot). Do not have HBO (or other 1080i protected "premium content") to test.

1. component video out from U-verse receiver to MP converter. SVHS out to Pioneer 220 #1 recorder. Audio direct from U-verse to Pioneer 220 #1.
2. component video out from U-verse receiver to Pioneer 220 #2. second audio direct from U-verse to Pioneer 220 #2. Pio 220 #2 was baseline system.
3. Playback of copy protected content to both recorders simultaneously.
Pio #1 recorded without CPRM putting unit into pause.
Pio #2 did NOT record content. Msg "This content is copy protected."

Addl tests over next few days.
1. Substitute Sony GX7 recorders for Pio 220 recorders.
2. Attempt recording of Blu-Ray content from Sony 350 player.
Insert MP converter between Sony 350 and Pio 220 recorder.

Any other tests?

So, assuming that Panasonics are non-starters and that used recorders are non-starters, which would you recommend, assuming that, in addition to the criteria I laid out in my previous message, I also would like a unit with a reasonable reputation for longevity?

Thanks very much for thinking about this; I appreciate it!You've already got some good recommendations from the real experts on the board, but you'll never beat panny's PQ. I've been around the block a few times and had many different recorders over the years (sony, toshiba, polaroid, magnavox, philips, etc.), and nothing beats panny PQ-wise, which is my top priority. Returns on ebay are usually as good as new. Usually the previous owner just couldn't figure out how to use it. I've bought many recorders that way and never been burned. But I understand if you don't want to go that route.

DVD recorders in general just aren't very reliable. There are always media compatibility issues, spindles get worn or dirty, belts break or stretch. It's the nature of the beast. I'd take PQ over reliability any day because you'll be watching the final product many years after the recorder you made it on went to the landfill.

I'd look at some of DigaDo's posts before totally ruling out panasonic. He can tell you exactly how long a particular panny model will last and how to fix it when it starts to wear out. I've made hundreds of DVDs on supposedly the worst panasonic models ever made, but he's made thousands on many different panasonic models.

[QUOTE=criggs;19260786]

. By the way, some of these HD component to S-Video converters also helpfully constrain the video in the 4:3 space, which is obviously what I DON'T want. I called the manufacturers of ALL SEVEN CURRENTLY AVAILABLE HD COMPONENT TO S-VIDEO CONVERTERS, and discovered some do force into 4:3, others don't.

I own an Atlona AT-comp500,and what it does is give me stretch-o-vision when i first turn it on. An example of this is when i record from TCM-HD. The AR is normal for the first few seconds then whamo! i've got a s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d pic. but it also stretches a 16x9 pic. too,like when i record from MGM-HD. I found a way to compensate for this though. I turn everything on,then wait for the stretch,after the stretch i hit the menu button on the remote control for my SAT receiver box and bring up the menu and in about 2 sec. the pic. snaps back to normal and stays that way. For unattended timer recordings i set everything up,wait for the stretch then hit the menu button,wait for the snap back,then leaving my SAT receiver and converter "ON". i walk away and go to work. When i come home i have a good recording.

BTW,i found out that the Ambrey converter does the same thing. If you go to the Ambrey website you can read the owners manual.On p.3 under "note" it explains this. In the owners manual for the Atlona converter they give definite reasons for this,but i can't remember what it says. Other than this little quirk the Atlona AT-comp500 works VERY well with only the expected degradation of PQ when downrezzing from HD to SD. The pic is bright but not to bright and the colors are true.Also,there doesn't seem to be any softening of the pic either. The Atlona converter is made for commercial use and as such is meant to be powered on 24/7 so there's no problem with leaving it on for hours at a time. G.

Criggs,
We really shouldn't be debating the merits of any particular brand of DVDR in this thread, it's really titled " Cheaper Component to S-Video Converter" but I'll follow up with one more post.

As mdavej said, the nature of DVD recorders is iffy at best, they just aren't 99.99% reliable like VCRs of the past. Of the current US models I'd probably rate the Magnavox 2160a or it's replacement the 513 as the most reliable for day to day use. The downside in your case is Magnavox drops resolution to 1/2 D1 on any speed above SP. You said you wanted full resolution over SP so I don't think the Maggy is your best choice.
Older ES series Panasonics are very reliable, on par with the Maggys, problem is none are new anymore and you wanted a new recorder.
Again as dave said most of the problems with current Panasonics arise from the tuner(this is also a problem with almost all other DVDRs except maybe the Maggy which seems to have got it right). I suggested the EA-18 since you said you didn't need the tuner, problem is AFAIK no store sells the EA-18 B&M. You can find the EZ-28 and if you only used it's line inputs you should have similar reliability as the EA-18.
No other brand except the late Pioneer kept full D1 past SP so if that's a must then you have no other choice other than a Panasonic for a new product.

With a Panasonic you can use ANY speed or ANY disc and still get 16:9 recordings, as said before only RAM discs will have the WS bit set, which enables letterboxing on a 4:3 TV. If you have a 16:9 TV you'll have NO problems and just leave your TV set to STRETCH or as I do, have your DVD player(or the Panasonic DVDR if that's what you'll use for a player) set to FULL for 4:3 source and leave your TV set to FULL. When you play a DVD if it's 16:9 it won't do any stretching but if it detects 4:3 source it will return it to it's proper 16:9 aspect. Note if your recordings are truly 4:3 it will also stretch these to 16:9 so if you don't like the W-I-D-E- effect then turn it OFF when you play true 4:3 material. I just leave mine on WIDE all the time and live with wider people with 4:3 source.

If you keep your spindle clean(yearly cleanings in dusty environments) and use quality media(Ty, Verbs, Sony) you should get maybe 99% or better recording reliability. DL media is slightly more problem prone so keep that in mind if going that route. For DL media only use Verbs +R DL(2.4x) or Ty -R DL. Anything else will have higher failure rates.

garyjo, thanks for the review of the MP converter, sounds good. Do your notice any PQ difference if feeding it a true HD signal(720p/1080i/1080p) vs 480i? I'd be most interested in a true HD source like primtime TV, not just a HD upconvert.
If the MP device didn't raise the black level I might just get it for backing up my DVDs. I'd go component out DVD player to S-video input of my DVDR. For the price it's less than 1/2 of what I paid for my Sima's and that was 5 years ago.

Criggs,
We really shouldn't be debating the merits of any particular brand of DVDR in this thread, it's really titled " Cheaper Component to S-Video Converter" but I'll follow up with one more post.

So I've started a new thread, entitled Pros and Cons of Magnavox vs. Panasonic DVD Recorders, and have started it off with a reply to this latest message from you.

Thanks for the very helpful discussion!

So, I picked up one of the Monoprice converters as well. I literally only had time last night to connect it, and test it out, and so far it seems to work pretty well. I ran component cables from my 8300HD to the converter, audio cables straight from the 8300HD to my Pioneer 660 dvd recorder, and S-Video from the converter to my Pioneer 660. I played an HD show from my 8300HD, and while the picture appeared a bit washed out and not nearly as vibrant as the real HD channel, the aspect ratio did finally seem to be correct.

So I am really not sure what the picture can or should look like with other units or the like, and maybe I could tweak my TV settings to improve the overall picture quality, but all in all, this unit does seem to present an improvement in options over the S-video cable going straight from the cable box to the DVD Recorder. I did not notice any banding or anything like that. Good unit for $50.

Let me jump in for a moment. I have a Panny ES20 & EZ17 and really like the PQ on both. I've had to clean the hub/spindle twice on the EZ17 & once on the ES20. Other than that no issues. As mentioned it will record full 16:9 on DVD-R but you have to manually zoom your TV to fill the screen, while DVD-RAM sets this automatically.

I did try a Magnavox with the 80Gb HDD which is similar to the 160GB version. The PQ was very good, but was a hair below the Panny's. What I experienced, and some others have also mentioned in the Maggy thread, is incorrect black level when recording. I noticed this when recording clear QAM through the tuner, however the line input appeared OK. This may or may not bother some people but was a deal breaker for me. Maybe the latest production run corrected this, I don't know. But the PQ was otherwise good.

The other solution is to buy/build an HTPC.

Using the monoprice converter, you can copy HD blu-ray DVDs using SD DVD recorders!

Blu-ray and SD versions of Avatar were used in testing.
Copies viewed on a Pan 42" Plasma (720p).

HD Blu-ray version of Avatar copied to Pio 225 (analog copy)
SD recording picture quality is generally acceptable. It is a darker picture with more contrast than the original source. Much of the darkness and increased contrast can be removed from the Pio 225 copy, after making video adjustments (see below).

SD version of Avatar ripped to PC HDD and burned to DVD (digital copy)
A superior picture, "closer to the original", resulted from digitally ripping a SD version of Avatar to HDD. AnyDVD was used to rip to HDD, and Clone DVD was used to burn copy to DVD.

Details of initial test.

Component out from Sony 350 Blu-Ray Player to MP Converter.
SVHS out from MP converter to Pio 225 DVD recorder.

Pio 225 video recording adjustments made (to offset the darker picture with more contrast, coming from the MP converter):
White level: Max
Black level: Min
7.5 IRE
Hue: Green-->Red (Max)
Chroma: Max


Just recd new monoprice converter. Initial tests positive.
CPRM removed. No color banding. Pic is NOT dark or blurry, as others have reported when using the Lenkeng filter. Seems normal.

Undecided whether recorded pic is "softer". Test content is "soft" to begin with. More testing needed.

Details of initial test.
U-verse HDD receiver is new Cisco unit, with 250gb HDD.
No coax in U-verse network.

Output from U-verse receiver set to 480i for initial tests.
Then to 1080i briefly for more testing.

U-verse content recorded via MP converter was copy-protected Chiller TV show (Twin Peaks pilot). Do not have HBO (or other 1080i protected "premium content") to test.

1. component video out from U-verse receiver to MP converter. SVHS out to Pioneer 220 #1 recorder. Audio direct from U-verse to Pioneer 220 #1.
2. component video out from U-verse receiver to Pioneer 220 #2. second audio direct from U-verse to Pioneer 220 #2. Pio 220 #2 was baseline system.
3. Playback of copy protected content to both recorders simultaneously.
Pio #1 recorded without CPRM putting unit into pause.
Pio #2 did NOT record content. Msg "This content is copy protected."

Addl tests over next few days.
1. Substitute Sony GX7 recorders for Pio 220 recorders.
2. Attempt recording of Blu-Ray content from Sony 350 player.
Insert MP converter between Sony 350 and Pio 220 recorder.

Any other tests?

So, I picked up one of the Monoprice converters as well. I literally only had time last night to connect it, and test it out, and so far it seems to work pretty well...I did not notice any banding or anything like that. Good unit for $50.

$50? That's what I picked mine up for also, at Sewell's. It might very well be the same converter. It's supposed to be arriving at my apt. tomorrow. I'll report the results when it does.

Pio 225 video recording adjustments made (to offset the darker picture with more contrast, coming from the MP converter):
White level: Max
Black level: Min
7.5 IRE
Hue: Green-->Red (Max)
Chroma: Max

This may be good news(to me anyway):confused:
It does sound like the converter isn't changing the 0 IRE component output to +7.5 S-video(or composite) that our N. American DVDRs require for a line input. While not such good news for N. American DVDR owners, it may be just what I need for my international DVDR, which requires a 0 IRE source for a proper spec DVD:)
Thanks for your detailed write up, now it sounds like I really need this device. Kind of bad news though for the majority of people using a standard DVDR(at least for those sensitive to black level issues).

It seems like many of the offshore designers of these type of boxes just don't understand how the US IRE black level works. I'd guess my Sima is 7.5 too bright and the Ambry converter may be 7.5 too dark:rolleyes:

If your DVD recorder does not have ability to change IRE, Chroma, Black/White Level settings, you can put a proc amp between the MP conv and the DVDR. I got good results using a "Studio 1 Productions proc amp" I picked up on eBay for pennies on the dollar.

I forgot to mention in my testing of Avatar HD Blu-ray copy to the pio 225:
The MP conv removes the subtitle. A disappointment for those of us that are hard-of-hearing.


Kind of bad news though for the majority of people using a standard DVDR(at least for those sensitive to black level issues):rolleyes:

This may be good news(to me anyway):
It does sound like the converter isn't changing the 0 IRE component output to +7.5 S-video(or composite) that our N. American DVDRs require for a line input. While not such good news for N. American DVDR owners, it may be just what I need for my international DVDR, which requires a 0 IRE source for a proper spec DVD:)

And, incidentally, this is also another argument in favor of my getting the international Panasonic DMR-ES18 instead of the Magnavox 2160 (assuming my converter, which I expect any minute, looks dark when I put it into my TV).

If your DVD recorder does not have ability to change IRE, Chroma, Black/White Level settings, you can put a proc amp between the MP conv and the DVDR. I got good results using a "Studio 1 Productions proc amp" I picked up on eBay for pennies on the dollar.

I forgot to mention in my testing of Avatar HD Blu-ray copy to the pio 225:
The MP conv removes the subtitle. A disappointment for those of us that are hard-of-hearing.

I have a Vidicraft proc amp, but it lacks S-video connectors, which is about all I use anymore. Does yours have S-video connectors?
Oh and I don't think it's the converter that removes the subtitles, I think I've read that component in general doesn't pass subtitles. I think I read in in one of Wajos, or maybe Church AV Guy posts.

I have a Vidicraft proc amp, but it lacks S-video connectors, which is about all I use anymore. Does yours have S-video connectors?
Oh and I don't think it's the converter that removes the subtitles, I think I've read that component in general doesn't pass subtitles. I think I read in in one of Wajos, or maybe Church AV Guy posts.
HDMI and progressive scan strip analog CC, and some DVDRs may not pass CC even thru interlaced Component regardless of scan type.

I know HDMI strips closed captioning from TV shows. I was copying Avatar, and as you know, Avatar has subtitles, which are not stripped using HDMI.

Except Avatar's subtitles were stripped when the MP conv was placed between the Sony Blu-ray play and the Plasma screen.



HDMI and progressive scan strip analog CC, and some DVDRs may not pass CC even thru interlaced Component regardless of scan type.

Yes, the "Studio 1 Proc Amp" does have SVHS inputs/outputs.

I picked up mine on eBay for $100 a few years ago. Many studios are getting rid of them, as they move to digital. Originally sold for $795 in the late 1990s. US made, then knock-offs started showing up from Hong Kong. US made version is very high quality.


I have a Vidicraft proc amp, but it lacks S-video connectors, which is about all I use anymore. Does yours have S-video connectors?

This may be good news(to me anyway):confused:
It does sound like the converter isn't changing the 0 IRE component output to +7.5 S-video(or composite) that our N. American DVDRs require for a line input. While not such good news for N. American DVDR owners, it may be just what I need for my international DVDR, which requires a 0 IRE source for a proper spec DVD:)

And, incidentally, this is also another argument in favor of my getting the international Panasonic DMR-ES18 instead of the Magnavox 2160 (assuming my converter, which I expect any minute, looks dark when I put it into my TV).

I'm not sure of the proper AVS Forum etiquette here. I've already reported in another thread that, as far as I can tell, my new converter, which arrived today, DOES convert the component output to the S-Video output while utilizing the 7.5 standard, since the S-VHS output on my HDTV looks RIGHT, and DOES NOT look dark. Is it improper etiquette for me to post two messages in two different threads with essentially the same information, or is it considered courteous and considerate to post such information in both places, on the off-chance that some may only be reading the one, or only reading the other, thread?

In any event, I just lost one of the arguments for going with the Panasonic instead of the Magnavox, and now have an argument for going with the Magnavox over the Panasonic. But frankly I remain disposed toward the Panasonic; that is because in my opinion the argument was always weak anyway since I can permanently leave my component HDTV image controls screwed up to compensate (the Motorola Fios box outputs simultaneously on its component and HDMI outputs, so I can always do my live HD watching on HDMI without having to change the HDMI image controls).

Is it improper etiquette for me to post two messages in two different threads with essentially the same information, or is it considered courteous and considerate to post such information in both places, on the off-chance that some may only be reading the one, or only reading the other, thread?

You're fine as long as it isn't EVERY message you post to two threads.

When you tested...was it FIOS STB directly to HDTV? As I recall, reports of picture darkening are when a DVDR is in the chain.

I've already reported in another thread that, as far as I can tell, my new converter, which arrived today, DOES convert the component output to the S-Video output while utilizing the 7.5 standard, since the S-VHS output on my HDTV looks RIGHT, and DOES NOT look dark.

When you tested...was it FIOS STB directly to HDTV? As I recall, reports of picture darkening are when a DVDR is in the chain.

Yes, that's precisely my understanding too, from the experts in this forum. It happens when one puts a DVD recorder in the path that has been manufactured to international specs rather than US specs. The international spec for S-Video is a 0 IRE black level. The US standard is a 7.5 IRE black level (I should know; I was a videotape editor for 30 years!).

The question here was whether this el-cheapo Component to S-Video/Composite converter that I had purchased not only converted Component to S or C but also whether it took the extra step of conforming its S/C output to the 7.5 standard, or whether it simply passed the Component to S/C unchanged. As I understand it, some Component to S/C converters leave the video unchanged while others change it to conform with the 7.5 standard (Component video apparently ALWAYS is 0 IRE the world over including the US).

Well, after getting my converter yesterday and hooking it up from my STB to my HDTV's S-Video input, I can confirm

1) that it works as intended, giving me full anamorphic 16x9 that my HDTV's Wide setting converts to perfect 16x9 aspect ratio and
2) that the black level is perfectly fine.

Since the black level is perfectly fine, this means that my converter is indeed also CHANGING the video to conform with the 7.5 IRE standard. This in turn means that when I hook it up to the DRM-ES18 I intend to purchase today, the black level will become too high, since the ES18 is an international machine and is expecting to see a pedestal of 0, not 7.5. I will therefore need to adjust my HDTV's image controls to compensate accordingly.

I hope that makes sense, and I hope I have that right.

Dealing with insufficient outputs on my latest set top box and trying to figure out a workaround. I was considering one of these component to s-video converters to improve the signal going to my 2160A magnavox recorder, but while puttering around in my 'leftover cables' box, I unearthed an old analog to digital converter that I used to use to digitize standard video on my computer. It has video in and svideo out - wondering if that might also do the trick as a link (though I doubt it would improve the quality of the signal, at least it would allow added connectivity and (possibly) some relief from the odd (HDMI -based)incompatibilities I'm running across. Thinking of switching to component from STB to tv, for that reason, as well. Before I buy a component to s-video, I thought I might check to see if anyone has had any luck with one of these gadgets. It also has firewire, which would make things a lot easier, but I'm pretty sure the firewire port is disabled on the RNG110 box.

1) that it works as intended, giving me full anamorphic 16x9 that my HDTV's Wide setting converts to perfect 16x9 aspect ratio and
2) that the black level is perfectly fine.

Since the black level is perfectly fine, this means that my converter is indeed also CHANGING the video to conform with the 7.5 IRE standard. This in turn means that when I hook it up to the DRM-ES18 I intend to purchase today, the black level will become too high, since the ES18 is an international machine and is expecting to see a pedestal of 0, not 7.5. I will therefore need to adjust my HDTV's image controls to compensate accordingly.

I hope that makes sense, and I hope I have that right.

Well by weeks end I'll probably be able to tell you how the Monoprice(Lenkeng) converter handles the black level. I ordered one yesterday and it should be shipped Monday, standard shipping should take about a week to get to me. No matter what it does to the black level I should be OK, too low and it should work with my international Panasonic, if it converts it to 7.5 it should work with my US Panasonics, worst case would be if it actually raised the black level above 7.5(which is what my Sima does) in this case I'd probably return it to Monoprice.
It will be interesting to see how it effects the actual resolution, my Sima slightly softens the picture. Since the Lenkeng will be starting with a higher quality component, I'm hoping for slightly better resolution than a simple S-video to S-video device like my Sima.

BTW no matter what DVDR you get, I'd strongly suggest getting a decent quality player to actually play DVDs(commercial or home recorded ones). You can find good older Sony or Pioneer upconverters for <$50 refurbished that will have more features than either the Panasonic ES-18 or Maggy 513 recorders, a good BR player would also work. Of course if you had a DVDR w/HDD your only choice would be to use it to play back things on the HDD.
I'm not knocking the picture quality of either the Panasonic ES-18 or Maggies when playing back DVDs but rather to save wear and tear and also dedicated players tend to have more features not found on recorders.

I'd strongly suggest getting a decent quality player to actually play DVDs(commercial or home recorded ones). You can find good older Sony or Pioneer upconverters for <$50 refurbished that will have more features than either the Panasonic ES-18 or Maggy 513 recorders, a good BR player would also work.

Yes, Tulpa just made the same suggestion to me on another thread.

As I mentioned to him, up until now, I've been using my laptop to play back DVDs to my HDTV. The outputs are not ideal. I have a high-res 4x3 VGA output and an S-Video output.

Of course, if there's a convenient way to convert the 4x3 VGA output to 16x9 then I would think I don't need a DVD player at all. But I don't know if that's possible.

I wouldn't want to wear out the laptop's drive, either. A $50 to $100 standalone player would be well worth it. You can get some pretty nice, region-free Pioneer's from Amazon for less than $80.00.

garyjo, and Criggs, glad to hear your reports about the Monoprice (Lenkeng?) component>S-Vid converter. I'm expecting mine in the middle of the week. My Lenkeng is between my second Moto DVR and my Pio 640 DVDR, and works well.

My new MP converter will go between my Oppo 980 DVD player and my Pio 640 DVDR. I think my first use will be to convert a commercial PAL DVD of the 1986 film Bliss to NTSC, since it isn't available on NTSC DVD.

I finally decided to buy an international model of the Pio 660. Last week, it was listed as in stock at World Import, and Samstores. But, I tried to order it, and neither has it. Does anyone know where I might buy a new one? Criggs, the Pios will record DL media.

What would really be useful to me would be a HDCP compliant HDMI to S-Video converter with CP filtering. As it is, I am expecting when the analog outputs get turned off, I will need several converters in series: HDMI to RGB, RGB to S-Video, through a video filter to eliminate CP, and THEN into a DVD recorder. The quality of the video will take a hit each time. I'm sure the "industry" will try their hardest to make even such a rube goldberg process impossible.

I have just purchased a Monoprice component to video converter. I haven't had a chance to test it out or play with it yet. the composite output on my Blu-ray player has been working so far.

I finally decided to buy an international model of the Pio 660. Last week, it was listed as in stock at World Import, and Samstores. But, I tried to order it, and neither has it. Does anyone know where I might buy a new one?

I picked mine up used in good condition from B&H for about $375 back in March, though the last time I saw it in stock there a few weeks ago, it was actually cheaper. They come in and out of stock at B&H from time to time. It is a nice unit--the 250gb hard drive is very nice to have.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/600547-REG/Pioneer_DVR660HS.html

HDMI and progressive scan strip analog CC, and some DVDRs may not pass CC even thru interlaced Component regardless of scan type.

I know HDMI strips closed captioning from TV shows. I was copying Avatar, and as you know, Avatar has subtitles, which are not stripped using HDMI.

Except Avatar's subtitles were stripped when the MP conv was placed between the Sony Blu-ray play and the Plasma screen.
This seems odd to me. CC info is carried in the VBI of the video stream. I have successfully gotten CC to work with composite, S-Video and component, but HDMI is ALL digital, so it has no VBI, and carries the CC info in a completely different way. My televisions don't allow me to select CC "on" when set to an HDMI input. Commercially pressed DVDs, in my experience don't normally put CC info out in the VBI of the video streams either. that's why they have menu options for subtitles or captions. the data is stored on the disk in another form, and the captioning is added to the video stream over the picture by the player, not the television. My experience is, that recordings of commercially pressed DVDs rarely have CC info intact.

Are you saying that Avatar DVD has CC or subtitles info intact on the HDMI output? How does that work exactly? How do you turn them on and off using the television controls?

[QUOTE=Church AV Guy;19291505]What would really be useful to me would be a HDCP compliant HDMI to S-Video converter with CP filtering.



Church AV Guy,what you need is an HD FURY 3 by Curt Palme. It is a fully HDCP compliant HDMI > Comp.video converter. it'll cost ya about $300.00 G.

What I am saying is that Avatar's subtitles did not come through the MP converter (to the Pio 225, when recording Avatar from the Sony 350 blu-ray player).

Did you get different results?



Are you saying that Avatar DVD has CC or subtitles info intact on the HDMI output? How does that work exactly? How do you turn them on and off using the television controls?

I purchased 2 MP converters initially.

I just returned one MP converter b/c the power supplier (5V/1A) plug was so loose fitting it can fall off the converter box connector, resulting in loss of power during unattended recording.

Secondly, before return, I also noticed differences in output between both MP converters. For ex, the color was "washed out" on the MP converter returned, whereas the color was "closer to original" on the MP converter kept.

Anyone else seeing differences (assuming you purchased 2 MP converters)?

Quality control would explain why some had luck with the Lenkeng converter and others had no luck. If this is the case I suppose I should have ordered two and figured it would be cheap to just mail one back but I only ordered the one. If it preforms sub par(worse than my Sima CT-2) I won't hesitate to return it, or maybe I should try exchanging it one time.
Mine should arrive later this week.
Garyjo, how does the better one handle the black level? Does it lighten/darken it at all?

Marginally better. Better MP converter still passes a "slightly darker picture" to Pio 220 DVDR. As a result, detail in darkest areas is lost.

You can bring back much (not all) of the lost detail if you pass video signal through SVHS inputs/outputs of "Studio 1 Productions" pro amp. Position proc amp in video chain after MP converter, and before Pio DVDR.

Garyjo, how does the better one handle the black level? Does it lighten/darken it at all?

What I am saying is that Avatar's subtitles did not come through the MP converter (to the Pio 225, when recording Avatar from the Sony 350 blu-ray player).


Did you have the subtitles switched on while you were recording? That's the only way you could record them. You won't be able to switch them on and off on a recording made by real-time playback.

I picked mine up used in good condition from B&H for about $375 back in March, though the last time I saw it in stock there a few weeks ago, it was actually cheaper. They come in and out of stock at B&H from time to time. It is a nice unit--the 250gb hard drive is very nice to have.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/600547-REG/Pioneer_DVR660HS.html

I knew B&H used to sell them, but I didn't realize that they sell used ones. I'll check with them. Thanks.

Did you have the subtitles switched on while you were recording? That's the only way you could record them. You won't be able to switch them on and off on a recording made by real-time playback.
Exactly! That's what *I* was saying/asking. You worded it a bit better, thank you.

Well I got my LKV-7611 Monoprice (Lenkeng) converter today, won't be able to test it out until tomorrow though.
Nice packaging and small profile with metal case, power connector seems to hold very securely.
One odd note though, in the Monoprice ad is plainly says -Simultaneously output Composite Video and S-Video. but the instructions plainly states Select S-video or CVBS(Composite Video) output by switch button:confused: so I don't know what that's all about.

Well it's going back. The picture quality is subpar, a fair amount worse than my Sima CT-2, even though the Sima only starts out with S-video instead of higher quality component.
Not only does the Lenkeng slightly lighten the picture(similar to my Sima) but the picture is noticeably soft. I only fed the converter 480 and actually noticed feeding it 480i was a little better than 480p. It's possible feeding the Lenkeng HD would result in better picture quality, but I doubt it.
It also ran a little warm(like my Sima) so when not in use I'd uplug it to save product life.
I wanted this thing to work but I had my doubts considering the low price. If all you're looking for is a device to remove CP or if your device doesn't output WS S-video this product would be a cheap alternative. It's my guess that WS S-video through this device would look better than letterboxed WS without the device, but it's too bad it doesn't fully utilize the picture quality of S-video. Note composite and S-video are NOT active at the same time and I notice no PQ difference between this devices composite and S-video output.
Since the device didn't darken output, in fact it actually lightened it, it doesn't help with my international Panasonic which wants a darker input.

Some screenshots because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. All screenshots are of copies made from a Sony DVD player to a Panasonic EH-50 DVDR set to SP.

The first one is a direct S-video to S-video copy with no converters.
The second is with Sima CT-2 between the path.
The 3rd is from DVD player component output and Lenkeng S-video out.
The 4th is from DVD player component output and Lenkeng composite out.

First click the thumbnail and next the photo that follows. If you have tab browsing you can get all 4 pictures in a separate tab and toggle between the 4 for comparisons.

Some screenshots because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. All screenshots are of copies made from a Sony DVD player to a Panasonic EH-50 DVDR set to SP.
The first one is a direct S-video to S-video copy with no converters.
The second is with Sima CT-2 between the path.
The 3rd is from DVD player component output and Lenkeng S-video out.
The 4th is from DVD player component output and Lenkeng composite out.
First click the thumbnail and next the photo that follows. If you have tab browsing you can get all 4 pictures in a separate tab and toggle between the 4 for comparisons.

Well, I certainly agree with you that the Sima is the best of the 4.

WHAT IS WITH THE CYAN BAR OUT OF THE LENKENG???!!! That is super-screwed up. Looks like the color balance of the Lenkeng is WA-A-A-A-A-Y-Y-Y-Y off.

However I do see a very significant difference between the Lenkeng's S out and C out. In the C out, you can see clear ghosting on the left edge of the magenta bar, bleeding to the right of the border. Also, in column 7 of the high-resolution bar, you can see some clear tearing that's not present in the S out.

Interestingly enough, while the Sima is better than plain S to S, for the most part, nevertheless the plain S is noticeably better with the high-resolution row. Note that one sees some harmonics in the Sima that's not present in the plain S.

Speaking of harmonics, take a look at the high resolution bar on the Lenkeng, both of them. What a mess! Harmonics and moire all over the place!

If I switch on the subtitles while recording through the MP converter, they would always be present on playback.

Doesn't the Video Filter pass the subtitles to the analog copy, so they can be turned on/off during playback? And if not, what about the Ambrey filter?



Did you have the subtitles switched on while you were recording? That's the only way you could record them. You won't be able to switch them on and off on a recording made by real-time playback.

Did you have the subtitles switched on while you were recording? That's the only way you could record them. You won't be able to switch them on and off on a recording made by real-time playback.

If I switch on the subtitles while recording through the MP converter, they would always be present on playback.

Doesn't the Video Filter pass the subtitles to the analog copy, so they can be turned on/off during playback? And if not, what about the Ambrey filter?
DVDs and Blu-ray disks do NOT put closed captioning information in the vertical blanking interval of the video stream, so they are unavailable. The CC (or subtitles) are stored digitally on the disk and the player inserts them in the video stream, in the picture, or not.

Well, I certainly agree with you that the Sima is the best of the 4.

WHAT IS WITH THE CYAN BAR OUT OF THE LENKENG???!!! That is super-screwed up. Looks like the color balance of the Lenkeng is WA-A-A-A-A-Y-Y-Y-Y off.

However I do see a very significant difference between the Lenkeng's S out and C out. In the C out, you can see clear ghosting on the left edge of the magenta bar, bleeding to the right of the border. Also, in column 7 of the high-resolution bar, you can see some clear tearing that's not present in the S out.

Interestingly enough, while the Sima is better than plain S to S, for the most part, nevertheless the plain S is noticeably better with the high-resolution row. Note that one sees some harmonics in the Sima that's not present in the plain S.

Speaking of harmonics, take a look at the high resolution bar on the Lenkeng, both of them. What a mess! Harmonics and moire all over the place!

I agree, 3 and 4 (through Monoprice component to S-video/composite adapter) is a lost cause for high quality conversions. Just to clarify what 1 and 2 are. #1 is a screenshot from a DVD that was created by Playing my commercial Monsters Inc. DVD and routing the DVD players S-video out, directly to my DVDRs S-video input. This screen shot most closely matches the original and has the correct black level. Screenshot #2 is the same but this time I've put the Sima between the S-out of my player and S-in of my DVDR. This image has a elevated black level, very much like what DVDs recorded on my international Panasonic would look like(if I didn't purposely darken it's input before recording, by choosing the DARKER or European black level in my DVD players setup).
As much as I dislike the raised black level of the Sima, I'm very satisfied with how it handles colors and doesn't really degrade the resolution, I can't say the same thing for my MP component to S-video converter.

Well I got my LKV-7611 Monoprice (Lenkeng) converter today, won't be able to test it out until tomorrow though.
Nice packaging and small profile with metal case, power connector seems to hold very securely.
One odd note though, in the Monoprice ad is plainly says -Simultaneously output Composite Video and S-Video. but the instructions plainly states Select S-video or CVBS(Composite Video) output by switch button:confused: so I don't know what that's all about.

My converter that I got directly from Lenkeng does NOT have that output selection switch for S-Vid/composite. I noticed that my MP one had it. My Lenkeng slightly darkens the picture, and you say the MP converter lightens it. So, I guess they made some changes for the Monoprice release.

I will place mine between my Oppo and my DVDR. I haven't hooked it up yet, but will soon. My Pio does allow me to make picture adjustments to inputs, so I hope to improve the converter's PQ, before I record it to the HDD

Has anyone owning the Grex tested their claim they do not remove cc?
What about subtitles?


“Grex Preserves Closed Caption Information

All Dimax products including Grex are the only products in the market what do not remove Closed Caption Information from the protected Video Signal. Everyone who requires Closed Caption information and especially people with hearing problems can be sure that Closed Caption data will be fully preserved on the Video Signal passing by Grex.”

http://www.xdimax.com/grex/grex.html



DVDs and Blu-ray disks do NOT put closed captioning information in the vertical blanking interval of the video stream, so they are unavailable. The CC (or subtitles) are stored digitally on the disk and the player inserts them in the video stream, in the picture, or not.

To my surprise, Dexter's cc was recorded by the Pio 220 DVDR. This was Season 5, Episode 1 which Showtime copy-protects (u-Verse On Demand). Good news for those hard-of-hearing.

Unfortunately, as reported earlier, Avatar's subtitles (from the blu-ray DVD) were not passed by the MP Converter.

There have been comments in this thread the video quality of content converted using the MP Converter is poor/unacceptable. That is not true. Provided of course, you use a high quality proc amp after the MP converter, and before the Pio 220 DVDR.

The SP recording of Dexter, when viewed on a 42" Pan plasma, using the settings below, was acceptable. Pic remains marginally "softer" and slightly "darker" than the original.

My "Studio 1 Productions" Proc Amp settings:
Luma
- Black unity -2 (lighten)
- Gain +1
Chroma
- Saturation +1.5 (add color)
- Hue -1 (More red, less green)
Corrected Black Levels (via proc amp's built-in metering) during recording
7.5 - 80


DVDs and Blu-ray disks do NOT put closed captioning information in the vertical blanking interval of the video stream, so they are unavailable. The CC (or subtitles) are stored digitally on the disk and the player inserts them in the video stream, in the picture, or not.

I hooked up my Monoprice converter. It looks slightly brighter, not darker. Reds are off just a bit, greens up just a bit. I expect to be able to correct that with the Pio DVDR's input adjustments. I have checked, and it does strip DVD copy protection. I haven't gotten out my Avia disc yet, to look at sharpness, and do adjustments, but will soon.

would this work???http://cgi.ebay.com/S-Video-7-Pin-3-RCA-RGB-Component-Adapter-Converter-/150490534609?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2309ef52d1

Could it possibly be that simple? Please, someone buy it, and see if it works!

Please, someone buy it, and see if it works!

Why don't you buy it? Take a chance, spend the $3.64 it's selling for and see what happens.

Could it possibly be that simple? Please, someone buy it, and see if it works!

Previously I looked into cables like this & they do not convert from component to S-video. IIRC some video projectors or other equipment use the S-video signal format but need the RCA connectors. Therefore an adapter cable like this is used. At least that's what I recall from awhile back.

I found plans on how to build a component to S-video adapter but it looked more complex than I had imagined. I seem to recall the main chip cost about $50, so you'd probably have about $100 in parts. You would also need some equipment in order to align or calibrate the unit. There were photos showing the output picture & it looked pretty good.

That simple cable converter would not work with our DVDRs. It uses the 7 pin S-video connector, found in certain camcorders and maybe video cards. Our DVDRs use the standard 4 pin S-video connector.
I think Monoprice sells something similar but they note that you must be using a specific video card, it doesn't actually convert formats but rather breaks out the S-video pins to RCA connectors.
The way that Ebay ad is listed I bet they get many people buying it only to later learn it won't work. Of course the return shipping would cost more than the credit so the buyer just keeps it and probably never uses it.
IMO Ebay is really a buyer beware source, you have to know what you're getting into.

is the Atlona AT-comp 500 converter. From an SD source,it will give you an EXACT reproduction of the pic. you see on your tv screen. No lightening nor darkening of the pic. Sharp,clear images,vibrant colors (not washed out looking). From a good HD source,the downrezzed pic.is only slightly degraded (as would be expected) but the pic. is still as sharp as a razor blade,with only small details being blurred because of the downrezzing to 480i. This converter is not cheap,if all you want is a cheap piece of junk that AT BEST can only approximate a semi- good pic.then look around there's plenty of websites that'll sell you one.

I bought my converter brand new in the box from a reseller at Amazon for $214.99 incl. s/h. and have no regrets whatsoever. The Atlona converter comes with a 3 yr. replace or repair warranty. It is a high quality converter and will live up to everything you would expect in a in a good converter. It also has an HD Component passthru that i thought was a bell and whistle that i could do without,but have found that this is a really handy little feature that allows me to instantly compare the unconverted video signal with the converted signal,and as i said before,i get an EXACT reproduction of the original video signal (from an SD source). I also use the HD passthru to watch tv when i don't want to turn on my AVR.I consider the Atlona converter to be a better buy than the Ambrey converter cuz Ambrey only gives a 6mo. warranty,but i don't know how the PQ compares to the Atlona.

So if you appreciate high quality components,and your willing to pay for that high quality,then you can't beat the Atlona AT-Comp500 converter. Oh! i almost forgot to mention that it also srtrips CP!!!

For all of you don't care about quality,go buy yourself a cheap piece of Chinese junk,and tell everyone about how little you paid. G.

http://www.amazon.com/AT-COMP500-Component-Composite-S-Video-Down-converter/dp/B002B94GSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1288735377&sr=8-1
That converter looks similar to another +$200 converter linked earlier in this thread. I guess You get what you pay for:)

Will this work I just ordered one.?? http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1360/Video_Converter/10/1

I don't see why it wouldn't but for $349 it's probably the most expensive one I've seen.
With the HD passthru it seems similar to the Atlona AT-comp 500, linked before your post.
When you get it, please post your impressions, looks like a quality built converter.

That's a lot of $, but the image size adjustment is a nice feature.

Will this work I just ordered one.?? http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1360/Video_Converter/10/1

I tried to buy a used one on Ebay for $88, but Ebay wouldn't let me log in, or register. I haven't bought anything directly from Ebay for years. It remembered my e-mail address, and wouldn't let me buy as a guest. I got them to e-mail me my old user ID. Then, using that, I tried to get them to e-mail me my old password. But, it refuses to, with a message that says I must complete registration, before I get a new password. But, it won't let me complete registration with my old user ID, or a new one! UGH! I hate Ebay! And, of course, to send them a message, or ask them a question, you must log in... :mad:

Will this work I just ordered one.?? http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1360/Video_Converter/10/1

That looks like a mighty fine converter,but mighty expensive too! It seems to have the same features as the Atlona AT-Comp500 converter. You should get years of use from it. It looks to have quality built in,just like the Atlona.To bad the warranty is only 1 yr. I'm glad to see you went for QUALITY, not low price,good move! After you get it and have played around with it a little,report back to us and tell us how the PQ is and if there is any noticeable degradation of PQ and if brightness or colors are "off". You can use the Component HD passthrough to instantly check the difference between the converted signal and the passed-thru signal from a SD source to see if there is any noticeable degradation in the converted signal. With the Atlona converter there is no noticeable degradation AT ALL,and i suspect yours will be the same.Good luck!!:):) G.

I finally got Ebay to let me log in, so I ordered the Audio Authority converter for $88, used. I got the shipped notice, and expect it soon. I am anxious to use the component pass-through. This will let me keep my component lines from one of my DVRs to my display, and also get an anamorphic signal to my DVDR. Also, the overscan adjustment feature can be helpful.

:d

I just read this thread from start to finish - an interesting discussion.

I'll likely be in the market for one of these converters shortly. I want to be able to archive stuff from my Motorola CDX3400 cable PVR to a DVD recorder, and these converters look like they fit the bill.

Okay, I got my Audio Authority component>S-Video converter installed. I also have a Lenkeng, and a Monoprice converter. I've been satisfied with my Lenkeng, although others have found them not to work at all. I haven't used the Monoprice one much yet, but it looks much like the Lenkeng. Both seem a bit green, but my Pio DVDR lets me adjust the Rec input for that.

The Audio Authority one is also just a bit green. But, it is noticeably brighter and sharper than the other two. I like having the pass-through. The overscan/underscan adjustment is just a switch. I switched it to underscan, and get just a very thin black border, on one side of my screen. My display's overscan has not been adjusted, and ranges between 2 and 5%, so I like this feature.

One caveat - I had just installed an International model Pio 560, and had set the unit to NTSC, and was getting a good picture, DVR>converter>AVR>DVDR. When I turned the DVDR on again later, I was getting audio, but no picture. I thought this was some screwup with the new DVDR, or the cabling. I messed around for an hour, trying to get a picture. Then, I tried the same path, but to my other DVDR. It wasn't getting a picture either. Then, it dawned on me. I had a SD channel tuned now. The Audio Authority converter will not pass on 480i signals. The other two converters will. I will try 480p, and maybe it will pass that. I do find this a major inconvenience.

kjbawc,I believe the MP converter IS the Lenkeng converter,at least it looks like one. I haven't seen another converter anywhere for that low of a price,except the Lenkeng,and a Lenkeng by any other name is still a Lenkeng.

My Atlona converter doesn't show any green shadowing except for a very small number of B&W movies. I don't understand why i get a very slight green shift on only a small number of B&W movies,but changing my video mode (standard>pro>vivid) to another mode clears it up,and the slight green shift that i do get is so slight that i usually only notice it after a period of time and isn't bothersome to my eyes,but most B&W movies are perfectly normal.Color movies have never shown a green shift,ever. The green shift is certainly not bad like it is with my Sima video filter,which,by the way, has become obsolete now that i have a good converter. The Lenkeng converter was so bad it still makes me angry to even think about it,even after all these months.

When i was looking around the internet hunting for a good converter i noticed that all of the better converters i looked at seemed to only except 480p,720p,&1080i.There were a couple of lower priced ones that accepted 480i,but being afraid of getting another lemon like the Lenkeng i stayed away from them. I feed my converter a 720p resolution and it downrezzez and interlaces the signal and feeds 480i to my dvdr's,and it works very well.The reason i feed it 720p is cuz then i can change inputs on my tv and watch a HD movie in HD through the passthrough while my recorder records the movie in SD.

Yes,the passthrough is a really nice feature to have. So far,the overscan/underscan feature isn't one iv'e had to use. G.

Well, yes, the Monoprice converter is almost certainly made by Lenkeng, but there are small differences, like an S-Vid/composite switch on the Monoprice model. I'm sorry you've had trouble with your Lenkeng, and I know others have as well, but both the one I got directly from Lenkeng, and the Monoprice one, work just fine, and have a good picture.

I've never seen any green on any of my three converters on a B&W film, and I watch lots of B&W films. The green shift is not pronounced on any of them, and is easily adjusted for on either of my Pio DVDRs, so the finished DVDs have no green shift.

The only problem I've had with my Lenkeng is that if I move the converter, like when moving equipment nearby, I sometimes have to wiggle the S-Video out cable to restore the picture. As Monoprice is a reputable place, and allows easy returns, it is my supposition that Lenkeng improved their quality control, and possibly design, for the Monoprice order. If Monoprice was getting loads of returns, I bet they would drop them.

The green shift i see with the Atlona converter is so slight that it isn't even annoying, and i have to look real hard to see it and i think it may be due to my tv's "picture mode" setting,cuz when i change that, the green shift is gone, and it only seems to effect a small number B&W movies. I can't figure out why it only affects a few B&W movies and not the rest. OTOH,my Sima ct-2 video converter had a very pronounced green shift that couldn't be gotten away from no matter what "picture mode" setting i used AND it affected color movies too.

As far as the MP badged Lenkeng converter is concerned,there was definitly one person and possibly a second person who posted that they sent their converter back to MP cuz they weren't satisfied with the video quality. It'll be interesting to see if MP keeps selling them. If enough people send them back MP won't sell them anymore. But IF Lenkeng made some changes,then maybe MP will continue to offer them. I don't know,but i know i'll never go near one again,nor would i suggest to anyone else that they buy one. Id'e try to stear them clear of that one,and strongly suggest they buy a high quality converter with a good warranty. Like the Atlona AT-COMP 500. It costs more but is well worth it. Cheap is cheap,and you get what you pay for. High quality beats the heck out of cheap any day of the week. G.

I posted several screen shots of my MP(Lenkeng) converter earlier in this thread and while I did return mine I could see how others may be OK with it's quality. I'm very fussy when it comes to video and won't tolerate any resolution loss and would prefer no increased black level. The later I've never found a converter that didn't do, even my Sima increases the black level a hair(but no green shift). If duping a DVD I can use my Pioneer DVD player which has a variety of output adjustments and I've found just the right settings to offset the Sima. If I had Pioneer DVDRs with input adjustments I could go that route too. Once resolution is gone their is no good way to get it back.
Link to screen shots. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=19304088&postcount=154)

So it seems like the Monoprice/Lenkeng unit has mixed reviews in this thread. I wonder if it's just a difference in how picky each user is about PQ, or if there's a genuine QC issue.

I am struggling to justify the cost of the Ambery converter for the small amount of archiving that I need.

Before they were available at Monoprice, some people got converters that had no picture at all. I wouldn't recommend getting one anywhere BUT Monoprice, since you can get it returned and get your money back quickly, if you don't like it. The green shift on mine is slight enough that the image looks normal, until I do a side-by-side comparison with the original signal, using my PIP. Having a Pioneer DVDR, with input picture adjustments, I can eliminate that.

I got my Audio Authority converter on E-Bay, for $88, used. New, they are $315. So, look around, and you can find something for a reasonable price.

So it seems like the Monoprice/Lenkeng unit has mixed reviews in this thread. I wonder if it's just a difference in how picky each user is about PQ, or if there's a genuine QC issue.

I am struggling to justify the cost of the Ambery converter for the small amount of archiving that I need.

I only archive a few programs & previously just recorded the Comcast letterboxed image & used the TV's zoom function in order to fill the screen. Of course I lost some resolution, but the original signal was a nice clean digital one. On the positive side I never had a problem with a picture that was too light, too dark, not sharp, colors off, etc.

If I saved a lot of stuff I would have invested in a quality converter. It's obviously a personal choice, but for me I chose the letterbox recording.

I have a commercial DVD of "True Lies" and it is letterboxed. I went round & round trying to figure out why my DVD player did not display this in full width & that the TV had to zoom the picture. I did some research & it turns out the DVD is letterboxed.

I recently changed to Dish and their DVR outputs a full screen image via composite video which looks pretty good. My friend tried the composite on his 61" HDTV and said it looks pretty good to him. The earlier Dish DVR did have an S-video output which I understand also output a full screen image.

One more note about converters - although my Lenkeng and Monoprice converters don't run hot (haven't checked the Audio Authority yet,) one of them only gets used rarely, when I am dubbing a commercial DVD, or converting a DVD from PAL to NTSC. So, I want to turn it off when not in use. Unplugging it is difficult, because of my setup. So, I got something at the hardware store to make it easy. It is a switch on one end of a cord, with a plug on the other end that has a socket on the back of the plug. Whatever you plug into that socket is turned off by the switch. So, I can switch off the converter easily.

Perhaps it was in another thread, but I said that no one with a Monoprice converter had complained about it. Sorry, I forgot that jjeff wasn't happy with his. I do think he should have tried it with a HD source, before sending it back. But, at least he got a picture with his! For a long time now, anyone who bought a Lenkeng claimed they got no picture... :eek: :rolleyes:

I can only be envious of those of you who have DVDR's w/picture input adjustments. Maybe if i had a DVDR like some of you have,my Lenkeng converter would have been good enough. I don't know.

I just wish i could show y'all how bad the picture was with my converter,then you'd understand why i am so against the Lenkeng,and why i could never (in good concience) recommend the Lenkeng to anyone.

After work last night i went home and dug out some of the B&W movies i recorded using my Atlona converter,and after looking at some of the different movies that originally showed a very slight green shift,and changing the "picture mode" settings on my tv (standard>pro>vivid) i have reached the conclusion that the "green shift"that i see is being caused by nothing more than the setting,and not the Atlona. I also turned on my DVDR and ran a live signal to it from my converter and lo and behold certain settings will show a very,very slight green shift,while other settings do not. So it's in the tv "picture mode" settings afterall. Tonight i will be recording "The Gangs of New York" on HDNET MOVIES while i'm here at work and am sure it will be a perfect recording. G.

Perhaps it was in another thread, but I said that no one with a Monoprice converter had complained about it. Sorry, I forgot that jjeff wasn't happy with his. I do think he should have tried it with a HD source, before sending it back. But, at least he got a picture with his! For a long time now, anyone who bought a Lenkeng claimed they got no picture... :eek: :rolleyes:

Yes I suppose I could have tried it with a true HD source(instead of just a DVD upconverted source) but since my Tivo HD already outputs full screen over S-video and I don't have a BR player for true HD I only did what I could.
I agree though, with MPs easy return policy all you would be out would be ~$10 in postage(from MP and back to them) for testing it out. The price was really great.

I'm leaning towards a monoprice converter and the 513.

Seems like it's the best option for me out of those available.

My $88 Audio Authority converter, ($349 list) does convert 480p, so I can just switch that, when I want to transfer a SD picture from that DVR to my new Pio 560. I downloaded AA's instruction manual, and it clearly states what it will pass/convert, and 480i is clearly a no-go.

Also, I'm happy to report that the AA converter runs at room temperature. It was not warm when I touched it.

Loobster, I think you're missing a bet if you don't at least check and see if you can get an open box Pio at J&R, and an Ebay Audio Authority converter. That would cost almost the same as what you're leaning to, and be somewhat better. If they are not available, then yes, what you propose is the best for the money.

I just wish i could show y'all how bad the picture was with my converter,then you'd understand why i am so against the Lenkeng,and why i could never (in good concience) recommend the Lenkeng to anyone.


I don't doubt that you got a bad picture, lots of people reported that. I think Lenkeng's quality control/grade of parts probably is/was pretty bad, and I just got lucky. But, hey, you've got a better converter!

Loobster, I think you're missing a bet if you don't at least check and see if you can get an open box Pio at J&R, and an Ebay Audio Authority converter. That would cost almost the same as what you're leaning to, and be somewhat better. If they are not available, then yes, what you propose is the best for the money.

The trigger finger twitched.

513 and the MP converter on their way.

I prefer stuff that isn't open box. I know it's fine 90% of the time, but I don't like the uncertainty.

I will of course report back on how the converter performs.

is that really cheap as you said?


I'm not sure who you're asking about what item. If it is about the $349 list Audio Authority component>S-Video converter I got for $88, yes, it was that cheap. I got it used, from Ebay, still in its own box, looked like new. The instruction manual was missing, but I downloaded it from the co.'s website.

The trigger finger twitched.

513 and the MP converter on their way.

I prefer stuff that isn't open box. I know it's fine 90% of the time, but I don't like the uncertainty.

I will of course report back on how the converter performs.
I just ordered mine today from MP too.Tired of using PC to Dvd RAM to DVD burner MAG 2160A.U-verse DRM on most channels now even Locals! Hope the s-video looks good on mag SD burned DVD's.I will report back after testing soon.

My $88 Audio Authority converter I also got from ebay from the same seller,works fine but here is a little quirk, I have this hooked to a dcx3400 box from the component output, to my dmr-eh75 recorder, when tuned to a 480i it does not send any signal, but when tuned to 1080i or 720p or 480p source it is all there, also when I have recorded a 480 station on the dcx and play it back to record it the source is output via component to recorder just fine, it just will not do so when i'm watching it live.very confused why it is doing this...

My $88 Audio Authority converter I also got from ebay from the same seller,works fine but here is a little quirk, I have this hooked to a dcx3400 box from the component output, to my dmr-eh75 recorder, when tuned to a 480i it does not send any signal, but when tuned to 1080i or 720p or 480p source it is all there, also when I have recorded a 480 station on the dcx and play it back to record it the source is output via component to recorder just fine, it just will not do so when i'm watching it live.very confused why it is doing this...

I did a LOT of searching on the net looking for a good converter,and none of the higher quality converters that i saw accept 480i. I have an Atlona AT-COMP 500 and it also will not accept 480i. I keep mine set at 720p and it works great. I run my signal from a VIP 211K Satellite receiver thru Component video to the converter,then s-video to my Mag/Philips dvdr. I also use the HD Component passthru to my tv,that way i can instantly compare the converted video signal to the passed thru video signal,but i always feed the converter a 720p signal.

Don't know what the dcx 3400 is,but are you sure that your feeding it 480p and not 480i? Are you watching "live" tv thru your DVDR? If so,do you have the output from your "box"set at 480p? cuz if you have it set at 480i,then you won't see anything. G.

Don't know what the dcx 3400 is,but are you sure that your feeding it 480p and not 480i? Is the output set for 480p when watching live tv? G.[/QUOTE]

THE dcx is my cable dvr, it it has on the front display the signal that is being fed is lit up. some channels say 1080 720 480i 480p, yes it is being fed 480p.

Sorry,my mistake. If you were watching "live"tv thru your DVDR then you would automatically be watching a 480i signal. If your "box" is receiving a 480p signal and is outputting that to your AA converter,then your converter will interlace the signal and output that signal (480i) to your DVDR. So you should be able to watch live tv. Something else must be going on,some setting somewhere maybe needs changing. This is confusing to me too. I don't quite know what to think. Maybe go thru your settup and make sure your settings are right. This is a very straight forward deal and there shouldn't be any problems. Is there ANY possibility at all that the dcx 3400 interlaces the output signal when watching live tv? I know that sounds dumb,but i can't think of any other reason why you can't watch live tv thru your AA converter. There simply seems to be no reasonable explanation for your problem. G.

This unit simplifies the conversion of component video to either composite or s-video, with a pass-through. Signals ranging from 480p to 1080p are scaled to an output of 480i. so if the station is in 480i the unit will not send signal out, correct?? But the dvr records this then I RECORD out of it through rgb to recorder and it's ok.?

My $88 Audio Authority converter I also got from ebay from the same seller,works fine but here is a little quirk, I have this hooked to a dcx3400 box from the component output, to my dmr-eh75 recorder, when tuned to a 480i it does not send any signal, but when tuned to 1080i or 720p or 480p source it is all there, also when I have recorded a 480 station on the dcx and play it back to record it the source is output via component to recorder just fine, it just will not do so when i'm watching it live.very confused why it is doing this...

As you know, you alerted me to the eBay deal on the AA converter. I was surprised to find it wouldn't pass 480i. Then, I went to their website, down loaded the manual. It clearly says it won't pass 480i, but will pass 480p.

I also have a Comcast Moto DCX3400 DVR, two, in fact. In the DVR's service menu, I have it set to output at 720p, since that is native for my DLP set. I also have the 480i override set, so that it should output 480i, not 480p. That is so that I can zoom LB 480i films. I can't zoom 480p.

So, when I want to dub a 480i source, I use the button on the front of the DCX to switch to 480p. So, that's probably what you have been doing too. The screwy part is, that after I have manually selected 480p, sometimes it will stay in 480p for the next film/program, sometimes not. It is rather erratic. Usually, if I go directly to a 480i program, it stays in 480p. Usually, if I switch to a 720/1080 source, it will switch to 720p, but sometimes not. If I switch back to a 480i source, sometimes it will go to 480i, sometimes to 480p. As I have had no trouble watching a live 480i source in 480p, I suspect that it is this erratic switching behavior that has caused your problem.

Now there's a good reasonable explanation for mickinct's problem. If errant switching is the problem,would that be a defect that the cableco. would correct? If not,is there a way to "lock in" a certain resolution and i/p setting,and just leave it there?

With my Satellite receiver,whatever resolution and i/p setting i choose,the Sat.receiver just stays on that setting. It'd be a B**** if the setting changed,magically,on it's own! :eek: G.

IIRC when I had the Comcast DCX3400 DVR, the resolution setting on the front panel controlled the output resolution, unless the input was 480i. So if it was set for 720p the output was 720p except for 480i sources. Am I remembering that correctly?

I've seen this item mentioned on another forum for recording HD from your sat or cable box to your PC. It has an HDMI input & an adapter for component. Obviously you have to use a PC, but the AVerTV cost only about $100.

AVerTV HD DVR.
http://www.avermedia-usa.com/avertv/product/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=482

Now there's a good reasonable explanation for mickinct's problem. If errant switching is the problem,would that be a defect that the cableco. would correct? If not,is there a way to "lock in" a certain resolution and i/p setting,and just leave it there?

With my Satellite receiver,whatever resolution and i/p setting i choose,the Sat.receiver just stays on that setting. It'd be a B**** if the setting changed,magically,on it's own! :eek: G.

IIRC when I had the Comcast DCX3400 DVR, the resolution setting on the front panel controlled the output resolution, unless the input was 480i. So if it was set for 720p the output was 720p except for 480i sources. Am I remembering that correctly?

My settings were always as I had programmed them to be before I manually switched to 480p, to get a signal on my converter from 480i material. That is to say, in the service menu, I programmed 720p for output, except for 480i sources, which would stay 480i (480i override.) I haven't reentered the service menu, to see if manually selecting 480p changed those settings.

You can select any output resolution with the front panel, and it will usually stay, until you switch to a different channel/recording with a different native resolution. I don't think this errant switching is really a defect, so much as a response to my manual override of the programming. If you select the output(s) you want in the service menu, and don't do any overrides, you probably won't get output format shifting.

I do recall that some people who selected "native" output in the service menu had shifting problems, using HDMI connections. I think that might have been a handshake issue. But, I use component connections, so that I can zoom 480i LB programs to fill the screen. I can't do that with HDMI on my TV.

I received my monoprice converter monday and hooked it up to my 2160A magie .It works flawlesly and now iam able to record all channels on u-verse including HBO at 480i directly. the picture/DVD quality looks very good no disernable differance at SD and 480i resolution.I am a happy camper.

It would be great if you took a little time and wrote a review on MPs website. I'd hate my somewhat negative(60% positive) review be the only one.
Note I had a heck of a time posting a review at MP. I had typed up several lengthy reviews only to have them fail during filing:mad:
Some crap about illegal characters! When I emailed MP they suggested no characters except periods and maybe commas. I typed up another lengthy review only to have it refused again.
Finally in anger I typed up a brief review and what do you know, it took:rolleyes: Just warning you if you take a lot of time on the review you may want to back up your work before filing it:) Kind of tells me why their are so few reviews on MPs website.

I discovered another quirk of the Audio Authority converter. I had my Comcast Moto DCX3400 set to output a LB SD recording, from Fox Movie Channel, at 480p, which the converter does convert. But, the image had black borders on all four sides of the 4x3 frame! So, I switched to another DVR recording that was full 4x3, and that image filled the 4x3 frame, as it should. I switched back to the LB SD image, and it still had the extra black borders on the sides. I was going to bed, so I stopped trying to do the transfer.

The next day, I tried again, with much the same results. I know that I had dubbed SD LB pictures successfully before, with the LB image filling the width of the 4x3 frame. My signal path was Moto DVR>AA converter>AVR (via S-Video)>Pio DVDR. While watching the SD LB image with the extra vertical black borders directly from the DVDR's output, I brought up the "My DVR" menu, then exited it. The image corrected itself! The extra borders were gone! Then, they popped back for an instant, then left again, and stayed gone. I did the 2hr.+ transfer successfully.

The DVR's output had stayed at 480p the whole time. So, I suspect some switching quirk in the AA converter. Perhaps this is induced by some oddity in the Moto DVR's output. Assuming I can easily get it to correct itself in the future, I consider this acceptable.

I discovered another quirk of the Audio Authority converter. I had my Comcast Moto DCX3400 set to output a LB SD recording, from Fox Movie Channel, at 480p, which the converter does convert. But, the image had black borders on all four sides of the 4x3 frame! So, I switched to another DVR recording that was full 4x3, and that image filled the 4x3 frame, as it should. I switched back to the LB SD image, and it still had the extra black borders on the sides. I was going to bed, so I stopped trying to do the transfer.

The next day, I tried again, with much the same results. I know that I had dubbed SD LB pictures successfully before, with the LB image filling the width of the 4x3 frame. My signal path was Moto DVR>AA converter>AVR (via S-Video)>Pio DVDR. While watching the SD LB image with the extra vertical black borders directly from the DVDR's output, I brought up the "My DVR" menu, then exited it. The image corrected itself! The extra borders were gone! Then, they popped back for an instant, then left again, and stayed gone. I did the 2hr.+ transfer successfully.

The DVR's output had stayed at 480p the whole time. So, I suspect some switching quirk in the AA converter. Perhaps this is induced by some oddity in the Moto DVR's output. Assuming I can easily get it to correct itself in the future, I consider this acceptable.

kjbawc, You'll find your answer in the owners manual for the model#1360 on the AA website. It'll tell you that a "full screen" pic. is required when you power up the converter,and specifically says to not input a LB pic. My Atlona converter is similar to the AA converter in this way. I talked to someone at Atlona,and they said that this is a "feature" that is useful for "technicians" working in "labs",(whatever that means). This can be a small annoyance for home users,but is a minor inconvenience since there is an easy workaround and the EXCELLENT PQ produced by the converter FAR outways the inconvenience of this "feature".

When i have an unattended timer recording to do,i first set my Sat. receiver to "auto tune" a full screen channel like fox news HD or MGM-HD,both of which produce a full screen on my tv. The "auto tuned channel is set for 1-2 minutes,which gives my converter the "full screen" required.Then,having set the time for my planned recording 2nd. the receiver then changes to the channel i want to record,and the converter then displays the correct AR for that movie. G.

I had already downloaded the manual, but I guess I missed that part. Thanks for the info!

KB;) I see you posted a review on MPs website. I had written up several equally as detailed reviews only to have it fail to take:mad: yours seems to cover all the bases and basically agree with your points. You'd have to spend several times the cost to get something noticeably better.

Indeed, that was me. I thought I covered the bases fairly well. I also reviewed a DVI/HDMI adapter, but declined to review a component cable set. :eek:

I have discovered a problem with the Audio Authority converter. Sometimes I get a sort of horizontal shear - the picture is slightly offset, above and below a horizontal line. The line may move up or down for a bit. The effect doesn't last long. In trying to dub one movie through the converter, on the first dub, it happened about an hour in, happened a few times in about ten minutes, then didn't happen again. On the second attempt to dub, it happened at about 20 minutes in. A check of the source recording on the DVR showed no problems. These dubs were done from 480i>480p from the DVR, with the AA converter switched to "underscan."

I tried the dub a third time, with the AA converter set to "overscan," and found no problems with the dub. So, I don't really know if the underscan being switched on, or using a 480i source, had anything to do with it, that may just be coincidence. I'll keep an eye on future dubs, and report if I can be more definitive about the cause of the problem.

kjbawc, I don't seem to have that trouble with the Atlona,but is it possible that your converter is having trouble displaying certain aspect ratios? It may be worthwhile to check the AR's of your different recordings to see if there's any correlation. Why not try feeding your converter a 720p signal? Iv'e never had a problem with that resolution,but iv'e never tried 480p cuz iv'e no reason to since (other than TCM) most of my recordings come from HD channels,and i like to watch in HD while recording in SD.I think it's kind of interesting that changing the over/underscan setting makes a difference. I think i'll play around with my converter to see if i can reproduce what your seeing. G.

I'm not certain that changing the overscan/underscan setting to underscan is causing the problem, but I think it might. I've wondered how it could work - does it drop some lines? It's just a converter, not a display, so I don't know how it can reduce the size of a picture. I have set it to overscan, and will look to see if I have the problem again.

Well, anyway, I did remember that one of the first recordings I made had this offset/shear problem, and that was from a 720p output from a HD channel, so I don't think 480p is the problem. I did successfully rerecord that one too. My display is 720p native, so my DVR outputs at 720p, except SD recordings, which I like to output at 480i, if they are letterboxed, so I can zoom them.

Bumped up for AzA...

Shinybow originally was going to release it's converter on 6/30/10 but set the date back to 11/30/10. It wasn't released then either. The last time i visited their website it wasn't shown at all, so i guess it won't be released anytime soon,if ever.

There are other converters though. I bought mine from Atlona Technologies,it has a built in "feature" that is a little annoying,but the PQ is exellent,and has an HD passthru which i like a lot,and use every day.
There is also one from Audio Authority that member "kjbawc" can tell you about. Then there is the el-cheapo Lenkeng converter that you can buy from MP. It doesn't have a passthru,and your PQ may or may not be to your liking,but some people swear by them...others swear AT them,really the only thing it has going for it is that it is CHEAP $45.00+/- but, AFAIK has no manufacturers warranty at all,but MP will return your $$ if you aren't happy with it if it's returned within 30 days and, (if you wait long enough, you might be able to get one free as a prize in a Capt.Crunch cereal box,or a CrackerJacks box!!(just kidding)). There is also the Ambrey converter,dunno anything about it except it only has a 6mo. warranty and has the same built-in "feature" as the Atlona converter,costs $209.00,and has an HD passthru.There is also the Apple tv converter,it accepts 480i,and costs $199.00. Some of these converters will not accept a 480i signal,some will. My Atlona will accept 480p,720p,and 1080i but not 480i,which to me is a non-issue.The Atlona converter carries a 3yr.repair or replace warranty. I bought mine from a reseller at Amazon.If i remember right,it cost me about $212.00+/- incl. shipping. It's normal retail price is $279.00. G.

I find that my Monoprice converter is better than the one I got directly from Lenkeng. The picture is a bit sharper and brighter. It is a bit different build, having, IIRC, a composite/S-Vid switch not on the Lenkeng model.

Pure speculation on my part, but I wonder if Lenkeng didn't tweak the design a bit, and perhaps use a better grade of component parts for the Monoprice units. One thinks that if the failure rate was as high for the Monoprice ones as was reported here for the Lenkeng ones, Monoprice would drop them pretty quick. So, maybe Lenkeng shaped up for prime time.

I find that my Monoprice converter is better than the one I got directly from Lenkeng. The picture is a bit sharper and brighter. It is a bit different build, having, IIRC, a composite/S-Vid switch not on the Lenkeng model.

Pure speculation on my part, but I wonder if Lenkeng didn't tweak the design a bit, and perhaps use a better grade of component parts for the Monoprice units. One thinks that if the failure rate was as high for the Monoprice ones as was reported here for the Lenkeng ones, Monoprice would drop them pretty quick. So, maybe Lenkeng shaped up for prime time.

Or it could be,as Wajo noticed,that the MP version is 2amp?,whereas the converters coming directly from Lenkeng were only 1?amp. maybe the extra amperage is helping? Anyway,as far as whether MP continues to sell them or not,only time will tell.I'd expect MP to offer them for quite a while yet,cuz i "think"it takes a while for sales results to show definitive trends and MP hasn't been selling them long enough to tell. G.

A lot of people reported that their Lenkengs didn't work at all. Monoprice has been selling them for a few months. If they had been failing to perform, and coming back in droves, I bet they would have been pulled by now.

Also most people tend to leave reviews if they have problems with a product. The fact that MP only has 2 reviews(mine and Kjbawc's) maybe most people are satisfied? Just a thought.

I think it will all boil down to sales vs. returns. If,as "kjbawc" says,about upgrading their FW/using higher grade parts et al,then HOORAY for Lenkeng, maybe the MP converter
will be a good one,and people will get good value. Hope so!

On another note,it probably won't be tooo much longer til the analog outputs on our Sat./cable stb's can be disabled. From what i read,the new BD players already come with the FW to do this. The disabling is supposedly restricted to new movie releases (HDMI only),but i'm guessing that the disabling of analog outputs will creep into just about everything else we watch, eventually. So my question is: Does anyone think it might be smart to think about getting an HDMI>Component video converter while they can still be easily gotten? You can buy the HDFURY 2&3 at MP. The #2 model sells for $120.00 and #3 sells for $180.00. If/when closing the analog outputs becomes a problem,people will be needing these converters.If that happens,they may become scarce,and the $$$ might skyrocket.They could even be pulled from the market due to legal problems. What do y'all think? Any thoughts? Am i being paranoid? I sure would like to hear some thoughts about this from y'all! G.

You can buy the HDFURY 2&3 at MP. The #2 model sells for $120.00 and #3 sells for $180.00.
Check again. I don't think you can buy them now.

I agree the availability of the HDFury may be limited, kind of like what happened to Sima:( It probably wouldn't hurt to purchase one if you needed HD component or I guess even composite(in the case of newer BR players lacking such outputs).

edit: as Nocturnal said I don't see that MP sells the HDFury anymore:confused:
You can purchase component to HDMI but nothing from HDMI to anything else.....is the analog hole being closed....

to[/I] HDMI but nothing from HDMI to anything else.....is the analog hole being closed....

My gosh! They were there just a day or two ago,and was kicking around the idea of buying one. I just emailed MP asking about when a new batch might arrive.I hope they'll be getting a new batch. Those buggers must be selling like hotcakes!!! G.

[QUOTE=jjeff;19817437]I agree the availability of the HDFury may be limited, kind of like what happened to Sima:( It probably wouldn't hurt to purchase one if you needed HD component or I guess even composite(in the case of newer BR players lacking such outputs).

jjeff,with component cables coming from the HDFURY output >component>c/sv converter,then s video cable to rear of dvdr,is my idea for it's use. G.

jjeff,with component cables coming from the HDFURY output >component>c/sv converter,then s video cable to rear of dvdr,is my idea for it's use. G.

I thought I saw a version of the HDFury that went straight from HDMI to composite/S-video but maybe I was confused. Your idea would work but if you could get one quality device that did it all, it might give you better picture quality than separate devices.

I thought I saw a version of the HDFury that went straight from HDMI to composite/S-video but maybe I was confused. Your idea would work but if you could get one quality device that did it all, it might give you better picture quality than separate devices.

jjeff,i believe your thinking about the original HDFURY,that was HDMI>RGBHV.

As for one device doing it all...i wouldn't hold my breath for such a thing.Anyway,the Comp.video>c/sv converter would still be necessary for cp issues. As far as PQ is concerned,every user report i have read says that the PQ from the HDFURY is super excellent,NO noticeable degradation of PQ.In fact,iv'e NEVER read a user report that was anything short of "glowing". If all those user reports are right (iv'e read a lot of them) then the weak link will be the Comp.video>c/sv converter. If a person has a marginal converter,then the PQ will certainly be compromised due to the limitations of that particular converter.But if you have a really good converter,then your PQ may not suffer nearly as much.Maybe not at all. You would have the usual loss due to downrezzing from an HD source, but beyond that,no noticeable PQ loss. If your source is SD,then i could probably expect a recording (in SP mode) to look pretty much match the the source in PQ. G.

I was thinking the same thing as you (for a use of the HDfury), but then again if I can't record HD content from the component out there isn't much to gain.
I can just use the 480i out of the bluray player and record it OR am I missing something?

Now matching the HDFury3 with
http://www.hauppauge.com/site/products/data_hdpvr.html
then recording that file onto a DVD to play in a bluray player might work nicely. OR just save it to a usb hard drive to play on a player that can play those files.

But newer BR players are beginning to not have component or even composite outputs and apparently the older ones that do have those outputs have the ability to be disabled by the BR disc. It called the analog hole and it's being closed, hence the need for something like the HDFury.
Of course DVDs on a DVD player are fine but how much longer do you think new commercial movies will be put on DVD......I'd give it less than 5 years, remember VHS?

If I am not mistaken, the only thing that will happen is you won't be able to watch high resolution HD material except for the hdmi port. The other ports will be open but at a much lower resolution - lower than 720p.
I think DVD and Bluray will die together, the profit margin on DVD is probably fairly high at this point as the discs and machines to make the discs have all been paid for.

Unless you have a big screen tv, there isn't a big difference between DVD and Bluray on PQ in most cases. That wasn't the case with VHS and DVD. The only real advantage for bluray over DVD on most 40" and under sets is the extras on the disc, HD sound (if you have the receiver), and ability to do interactive online. Of course 3D, if that interests you.

Google "selective output control".There is a flag that Hollywood said it will not enable until 2011 or 2012. It's now 2011. And they CAN disable all analog outputs on Sat/cable stb's. I have to read more about this,but what i have read so far says that the FCC has already given Hollywood the green light to enable that "flag". Hollywood says they will only do this on newly released movies,but i am afraid that,that will only be the beginning.A foot in the door,so to speak. There is still time to study this issue though. My pants aren't on fire yet!!!:D I have read that they can choose to downrez the resolution to 480i from analog ports OR totally disable the analog ports,but i don't know which reasons will be used to do either.What i DO know is, that either way i'll probably still need something like the HDFURY cuz my Comp.vid.>s vid converter won't accept a 480i signal :( only 480p,720p,or 1080i. G.

Let me ask this, will one of the newer audio receivers (that accept HDMI in), accept HDMI in but let you use the component out to the tv (or recorder)?
And if they do would the CP be gone?
I know they will take a component in and let you use HDMI out.

If so I'd much rather do that than the fury ;)

I"d try it, but my receiver isn't that new - hence the question LOL

Let me ask this, will one of the newer audio receivers (that accept HDMI in), accept HDMI in but let you use the component out to the tv (or recorder)?
And if they do would the CP be gone?
I know they will take a component in and let you use HDMI out.

If so I'd much rather do that than the fury ;)

I"d try it, but my receiver isn't that new - hence the question LOL

AFAIK no AVR is allowed to transcribe HDMI>Component video,so no it won't work,and HDMI>composite video/s video isn't possible. My AVR is only 1&1/2 yrs.old. G.

Well that sucks, what about if you have an older tv yet want the new HD audio and a bluray player?

Is the added expense of the HDFury3 worth it?

Well that sucks, what about if you have an older tv yet want the new HD audio and a bluray player?

Is the added expense of the HDFury3 worth it?

Older non-HDMI tv's is the very reason the HDFURY was made.Is it worth it? I guess it is if you want to watch HD programming. G.

But are the differences between the HDFury2 and the HDFury3 worth it? Or will the HDFury2 do everything needed for just a HDMI - tv situation?

But are the differences between the HDFury2 and the HDFury3 worth it? Or will the HDFury2 do everything needed for just a HDMI - tv situation?

Go to www.hdfury.com there you will see the diff.models that they have. Click on the HDFURY2 & HDFURY3 and you can read for yourself what they are all about. All the specs. are there for all the diff.models. They are both HDMI 1.3? compliant,and are FULLY HDCP COMPLIANT and provide the needed "handshake"required to display an image. They're complicated little buggers. I know that there are diff. kinds of of HDMI>component video converters but,after having read lots of user reports (when available) on these diff. converters,the only one i would consider buying is the HDFURY 2 OR 3. Some of the other converters don't work at all,others,barely so. Iv'e also read LOTS of user reports on the HDFURY and EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM has nothing but the highest of praise for them. Also,there are some that will only pass non-encrypted video,so be aware of those makes and models. G.

HDFURY series discontinued,no replacement date set yet. :( It might be getting harder to get these things,i hope MP comes thru with at least one more batch. G.

Just order direct from hdfury, at least while they are still available.

Just order direct from hdfury, at least while they are still available.

I must wait a few days before i'll be able to order,but i'll probably get one while the gettin's good. This little device is, i believe, the answer to the eventual closing of the analog "hole." I think that at some point these little buggers may become really scarce,and if you can find one you'll PAY BIG TIME. I could be wrong about future availability of course. Only time will tell.I'm not prescient. When i think about this,i remember what happened to the Sima video filter,and just remembering it is enough to make me want to get one EARLY. But the fact that these converters are fully HDCP compliant may make it quite a bit harder to take them off the market since they do honor and pass copy protection,therefore hollywood won't be able to make a case against them so easily,unlike the Sima or other such devices. G.

I hope this question isn't too far off topic for this thread but you fellows are very knowlegeable.

I drug my old (dead burner equipped) Phillips DVDR75 down from the attic to see if the component-in to S-video loop would correct the annoying aspect ratio issue. The unit fired right up and works OK after "resting" for over 5 yrs.

I hooked up a component cable set from my Comcast box to the "Ext 1" jacks on the DVDR75 and hooked up an S-video cable from the ext out jack to the L1 input on my Maggie 2160. The 2160 is hooked to my flat screen via HDMI. The DVDR75 setup menu displays fine but I can't get the cable feed to display. I made sure the DVDR75 input is set to Ext 1 and fiddled with everything I could find but no joy. Any ideas or am I trying something that's impossible?

Did you select Video > Video Input > S-Video on the Mag 2160?

Default is "Video" (composite).

Make sure the comcast output is set to 480i.

Make sure the comcast output is set to 480i.

Bingo, I'm guessing this is the case. I wonder if all Comcast boxes will output 480i over component?
This was one of the shortfalls of using the infamous Polaroid for such a use, I would think your Philips would be similar.

I hooked up a component cable set from my Comcast box to the "Ext 1" jacks on the DVDR75 and hooked up an S-video cable from the ext out jack to the L1 input on my Maggie 2160. The 2160 is hooked to my flat screen via HDMI. The DVDR75 setup menu displays fine but I can't get the cable feed to display.
I don't know whether this applies to your Comcast box, but with my (Cisco) Time Warner Cable box, the component output is disabled if the HDMI output is connected. I have to unplug the HDMI output if I want to view the component output.

Wow, great responses!

Yes, Master Wajo the S-video input is set properly, thanks.

Dunno how to change to 480i on my cable box but it is indeed a Cisco. I'm off to pull the HDMI cable and see if that works.

For testing sake just hook the component cables directly to your TV. Your TV will tell you if: A, your box is sending out a signal and B what it's resolution is.

Bingo, I'm guessing this is the case. I wonder if all Comcast boxes will output 480i over component?
This was one of the shortfalls of using the infamous Polaroid for such a use, I would think your Philips would be similar.

Good question. Unfortunately many STB boxes now when set to 480i will still letterbox the image regardless of output. Even via component.

As far as the Polaroid 2001G is concerned I believe it was one of only a couple of DVD recorders that were able to pass through 480p, 720p and 1080i when in standby mode (to most that means powered off). That was an exceptional feature in its day.

And when I say a "couple" my guess is that there was only one.

For testing sake just hook the component cables directly to your TV. Your TV will tell you if: A, your box is sending out a signal and B what it's resolution is.

Always the best advice. And although sounds simple is the only way.

HDFURY series discontinued,no replacement date set yet. :( It might be getting harder to get these things,i hope MP comes thru with at least one more batch. G.

What's odd is if you go to MP's site here (http://www.monoprice.com/products/department.asp?c_id=101) near the top under "Category Special" (you may need to scroll left or right) it still lists the HDFury2 for $115, but if you click on it, it takes you to a completely different page and no mention of the Fury:confused: MP must need to update their website.
Sorry to bring this thread off topic again, but since it was previously mentioned in this thread I thought I'd bring this up.