is the Sharp xv-z12000mkII the best projecter for a $1000???

Best 720p PJ for $1,000? Probably, though I would think $1,000 might be a little on the high side for a used 12kmkII these days.

Problem is you can get a pretty darn good 1080p DLP PJ like the Mits HC4000 for about the same price, NEW. With warranty.

If you watch blu ray, I would think the decision would be easy ;)

I just installed a JVC RS40. It has an overall better and brighter image than the MKII I have in a smaller and darker video room. However, the difference is not night and day. However again, my wife thinks it is. They are both outstanding for their current cost. However again, I think the Sharp has a greater need for calibration to get the best out of it.

I just installed a JVC RS40. It has an overall better and brighter image than the MKII I have in a smaller and darker video room. However, the difference is not night and day. However again, my wife thinks it is. They are both outstanding for their current cost. However again, I think the Sharp has a greater need for calibration to get the best out of it.

Here's a hypothetical> Imagine your Sharp was 1080p, same brightness as the RS40, and potentially calibrated the same (that part is hard to imagine, i know), what would the noticable differences be?

I assume also that the RS40, even with the iris clamped down max, is still brighter than your Sharp? Maybe you can try the Sharp on high lamp, and open the iris (even though there's a contrast hit). Or maybe your Sharp's lamp is on the aging side....

Here's a hypothetical> Imagine your Sharp was 1080p, same brightness as the RS40, and potentially calibrated the same (that part is hard to imagine, i know), what would the noticable differences be?

I assume also that the RS40, even with the iris clamped down max, is still brighter than your Sharp? Maybe you can try the Sharp on high lamp, and open the iris (even though there's a contrast hit). Or maybe your Sharp's lamp is on the aging side....

Then I think they would be very close. Actually, the Sharp is too bright right now in my dark video room. That is because it was calibrated with 1500 hours on the bulb and I just turned down the brightness to compensate when I got a new bulb. The brightness is currently set to -30 on high contrast mode and I would like to go to -35 but -30 is max. I'm sure it's out of whack but being a little bit color blind in this situation is a plus as the color balance still looks good to me.

I do not find a loss of POP with the lcos JVC that some say they experience. They are both great projectors.

I do not find a loss of POP with the lcos JVC that some say they experience. They are both great projectors.

Motion?

Shadow detail?

Motion?

Shadow detail?

I do not notice much difference between CMD off and Motion 3 which seems to be the preferred setting by most RS40 users. I have watched NBA and NHL so far but probably not enough to make an expert assessment.

The shadow detail on the Sharp is excellent, but then it was calibrated by an expert. The RS40 has been setup with settings published by other users, none of which used my High Power screen. Based on what I have seen once I have the RS40 calibrated it will certainly be as good, if not better, than the Sharp.

Bottom line I think is how much the $2500-$3000 difference is to you. Remember, the RS40 has 3D.

Bottom line I think is how much the $2500-$3000 difference is to you. Remember, the RS40 has 3D.

3D is not of interest to me. But at some point I will upgrade from my Mits HC3800 (DLP), and DLP doesn't seem to be going anywhere. So it seems it might be a LCOS/JVC something, but maybe a year or 2 down the road.

Then I think they would be very close. Actually, the Sharp is too bright right now in my dark video room. That is because it was calibrated with 1500 hours on the bulb and I just turned down the brightness to compensate when I got a new bulb. The brightness is currently set to -30 on high contrast mode and I would like to go to -35 but -30 is max.Do you mean the Brightness setting is at -30? If so, I would suggest putting that back closer to 0 (or use a test disc for setting it correctly) and (assuming you are already on low bulb with the high contrast iris setting) you can reduce the Contrast setting some. The Brightness setting is for the black level and the Contrast setting is for the white level (whoever named them those should be flogged :)), so the Brightness control doesn't do that much for whites that are too bright. Turning it down tends to crush a lot of near black detail.

If it is it the Contrast setting that you have at -30 then maybe you should put that back up higher since that would hurt your on/off contrast ratio and instead move the projector to a position where you get less gain from your screen to where you are sitting, if you can do that.

I recall that when I had one of these Sharps (the 11k) it was a little brighter than I wanted with a new bulb and so I put it on a little higher shelf to dim the images some.

--Darin

Do you mean the Brightness setting is at -30? If so, I would suggest putting that back closer to 0 (or use a test disc for setting it correctly) and (assuming you are already on low bulb with the high contrast iris setting) you can reduce the Contrast setting some. The Brightness setting is for the black level and the Contrast setting is for the white level (whoever named them those should be flogged :)), so the Brightness control doesn't do that much for whites that are too bright. Turning it down tends to crush a lot of near black detail.

If it is it the Contrast setting that you have at -30 then maybe you should put that back up higher since that would hurt your on/off contrast ratio and instead move the projector to a position where you get less gain from your screen to where you are sitting, if you can do that.

I recall that when I had one of these Sharps (the 11k) it was a little brighter than I wanted with a new bulb and so I put it on a little higher shelf to dim the images some.

--Darin

I did have the Sharp mounted casting down to the HP and I thought it removed some of the POP. However, as I recall, I didn't mess with the brightness/contrast. I made the pole longer dropping it down to just above sitting eye level and I think I will play with the settingsuntil I get it right. I just received DVE and will see what adjustments with that produces. Even though -30 seems wrong some of the content looks good.

BTW, I should add that I have the BR and D* signals going through one of the Denon 602 VPs that AVS was selling for $300 a while ago. The 602 has made a night and day difference cleaning up the picture for the Sharp and for my 67" LED Samsung RPTV. Best thing I've ever done for my HT stuff since I got into this stuff in the early 90's.

is there anything better than these for around 600-700

is there anything better than these for around 600-700

At that price, there is not much that can compete with it. I would probably pick it over the Epson 8350, Mits HC3800 or HC4000. Here is one poster that owned the HC3800 after the 12K MK II. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19112145#post19112145 I still use a Marantz VP12S4 in one room. The 12S4 and the Sharp 12K MK II use the same lens. Since these projectors were so expensive, a lot of people have never seen one of them. At 1.5x viewing distance the Marantz throws a fantastic image on m HP screen. Much better image than my Planar PD7130.

is there anything better than these for around 600-700

If that's your budget I have two points that make it a great choice:

1. The lens is a great, i.e., expensive, piece of optics. I suspect that this is why the image quality is so good. All of the starter projectors use plastic lenses, I believe. At CES I had a Sharp rep mention that to me when they introduced the 15000 and I told him I had a MKII. He said keep it, it can't be beat.

2. I think all of the smaller starter models have heat problem exposure because of the bright bulbs. The engineering for heat control on these larger/originally expensive projectors was substantial. Excessive heat can cause a lot of reliability issues. I had a NEC HT1000 and had a lot of problems with it. I believe most of them were either heat related or sub par engineering.

Do you mean the Brightness setting is at -30? If so, I would suggest putting that back closer to 0 (or use a test disc for setting it correctly) and (assuming you are already on low bulb with the high contrast iris setting) you can reduce the Contrast setting some. The Brightness setting is for the black level and the Contrast setting is for the white level (whoever named them those should be flogged :)), so the Brightness control doesn't do that much for whites that are too bright. Turning it down tends to crush a lot of near black detail.

If it is it the Contrast setting that you have at -30 then maybe you should put that back up higher since that would hurt your on/off contrast ratio and instead move the projector to a position where you get less gain from your screen to where you are sitting, if you can do that.

I recall that when I had one of these Sharps (the 11k) it was a little brighter than I wanted with a new bulb and so I put it on a little higher shelf to dim the images some.

--Darin

Darin,

You are right. I turned it on, raised the brightness, adjusted the contrast, and was able to get it closer to tuned in. Will put in DVE shortly and get it down properly. Thanks for the help.

1. The lens is a great, i.e., expensive, piece of optics. I suspect that this is why the image quality is so good. All of the starter projectors use plastic lenses, I believe..

The Mits HC3800/4000 has a glass lens.

I'm still on my second lamp for my Sharp. I haven't been tempted yet by any upgrades, despite looking pretty hard. The lens is certainly a piece of optics well beyond what's built into the new stuff, though certainly the unit lacks features. Throws an amazing Blu-Ray image on a retro-reflective screen (mine's a DaLite HP).

I'm shocked to see what lamps are going for. Unfortunate they'd discontinue it given the original MSRP of the thing and the people I'm sure who are still using it.

Fun to see this thread still rocking. This unit feels almost as legendary as my previous (and first) one...the Infocus X1. Ah, building my DIY panamorphic oil-filled lens to get full-resolution 16:9 from a 4:3 projector (that human mortals could even "afford!"). Those were fun and exciting times. And to think some people do this to watch movies. ;)

*feels old*

Great, I depressed myself...lol.

I just can't seem to get my laptop to work with the MK2 using BNC cable. I have a HP DV2415nr laptop and I can't get it to work with the MK2. I bought the correct female cable from monoprice and I am connecting it to male VGA cable. What could I be doing wrong?

i was planning on buying a new projector but now that i know my mk2 is still king of beasts i will refrain and just buy another bulb. still on my first bulb with 1100 hours on it.

The Mits HC3800/4000 has a glass lens.

The lens in the Mits 3800/4000 is no comparison to the lens in the 12K MK II/Marantz VP12S4.

I just checked the hours on my projector 1,056. I am on my second lamp. First started acting up and Mack replaced it. New lamp only has 92 hours on it. I run it on economy, projecting onto a 106" High Power. Mostly used for HDTV.

The lens in the Mits 3800/4000 is no comparison to the lens in the 12K MK II/Marantz VP12S4.


True. I never said otherwise.

how much are new lamp for the sharp???

Unless you tried these new inferior LCD at your home your comment doesn't have any merit. Without talking about these inferior LCD units you are talking about, let me tell you I have a Sharp Z3000 DLP, which is the same as Marantz VP4001, and the Z12000 doesn't even beat this model from Sharp. Let's not even start comparing the Panasonic AE4000 with the Sharp Z12000. If you think the Z12000U is better than the AE4000, all I have to say to you enjoy your Sharp. IMO, the new LCDs such as AE4000 and Epson 8500UB are a far better projector than the Sharp in every way except for maybe reliability and sealed optics. As for the unit I received, I didn't buy it expecting to beat or even be close to the AE4000. If I don't achieve the PQ i find satisfactory, it is definitely going back. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.



My brother has the panny and I let him borrow mine. He wants to buy my sharp.The panny has great features but picture quality over the sharp is not one of them.

Anyone figure out the lamp situation? Feel free to PM me.

I am looking for a lamp replacement as well but there are none to be had. Sad they are not giving it the support it needs.

I just picked up a XV-12000U for a KILLER deal! It has just over 300 hours on the bulb.

I did watch some content last night in the room in theater dark and it looked good. But I can't usually get theater dark. This projector is very impressive for how old it is! I pulled the following settings from someone else.

Contrast –2
Bright 0
Color 0
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Temp 6300
Gamma C1
CMS 1


R Gamma -1
G Gamma -1
B Gamma 0

R Gain 0
G Gain –25
B Gain -9

R Offset +2
G Offset –2
B Offset –6

CMS Light Chroma Hue
R +0, -9, +3
G +9, -22, 0
B -2, +5, +12
C 0, 0, -1
M 0, -10, +11
Y 0, -24, 0

These solved a lot of the color problems with this projector and the overall balance is MUCH better. It got rid of the nasty Green cast that was over everything!

I am also attempting to use the AVSHD disk to calibrate (Mainly black and white level), but I am having some weird issues I am hoping someone here might be able to help with. Even in theater dark, I can't get the black and white level where they need to be. I am currently running the disk from my laptop, so that might be the problem. I am going to burn it to a disk tonight and run it on my blu ray player. The problem is I can't the the "brightness" high enough to see the flashing bars down to reference black, and as I up the "Contrast" it actually causes me to lose flashing bars! It makes no sense. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Don

Not sure if this is old news, aftermarket lamps are doing the job well after all, or everyone's moved on from their 12000ii's and no one cares, but I seem to have found a good source for genuine made in Japan Sharp lamps for about $400. Anyone care? Improper to post a link or can I just put it out there?

Old thread, old PJ, expensive lamp I know but I still love that machine.

This thread resurrects every so often with blow-out deals and good prices on lamps. I have yet to find an owner of one who is not passionate about it. Still have mine and loving it. Maybe I will replace it when 3d models get to cheap enough prices.

-Eric

I still have mine. I'd like to know your source.

Rob

Still have mine and love it. Just got a new aftermarket lamp 2 weeks ago. Had some concerns at first because there was a burning odor, but it went away within the first week. Bright enough now to get a bigger screen?. Which I just did...

Here's the link--

http://www.smartimports.net/products/Sharp-AN%252dK12LP-Projector-Replacement-Lamp.html

I had an email conversation with them about the actual real-live bona-fide Sharpness of their lamps and he assured me they were indeed the real thing.

I suppose I've jumped the gun a bit as I haven't received the shipment yet but I got excited to find these guys, especially since you can't source the darn things through Sharp or any of their recommended suppliers.

So far Smart Imports has been responsive and helpful, and I'll follow up here the day I get the lamp.

Shipping was 24 bucks through EMS Express.

Title says it all! Lamp arrived in good order today, spanking new in Sharp box. Inspected the lamp and it's the genuine article. Hope this helps.

I think I'd be in for a new projector before I sink another almost $500 into the 12K. I think I paid that for the entire projector (although I have another one that I paid 2k for).

There are no less expensive options out there for lamp replacement?

Anything I'd be looking at to replace the 12k would be in the $3000 and up category. $400 is a bargain.

Rob

I have this projector and loved it so far but my attempts to replace lamps with generic equivalents have been short of a disaster. I plan to upgrade next year to a 3d 1080p projector and I am not excited in spending $ 430 on a original lamp since I put about 700 hours on the Pj every year. Any one know of good generic replacements/web address where I can buy lamp. Even if I can get about 500 hours on it I would be happy. I have gotten 2 lamps from a online retaailer and both broke down with in 2 months of use.

I have this projector and loved it so far but my attempts to replace lamps with generic equivalents have been short of a disaster. I plan to upgrade next year to a 3d 1080p projector and I am not excited in spending $ 430 on a original lamp since I put about 700 hours on the Pj every year. Any one know of good generic replacements/web address where I can buy lamp. Even if I can get about 500 hours on it I would be happy. I have gotten 2 lamps from a online retaailer and both broke down with in 2 months of use.

If you bite the bullet and buy the real OEM lamp, you may be so happy with the image you will hold off on the upgrade!