http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1059870

better place to post this and it already has been posted there with more info. Not sure why you posted this here.
Because owners of philips and maggies want to replace thier drivers with larger ones. This subject has been on going on this thread
Not all owners have DirecTv or Dish services.

The philips went on sale at Sams Club for $160. It was previously $220. I had paid the higher price but was able to get the difference refunded, and then also bought the floor model without remote for $15

They've been out of the Philips at all my local Sams for quite some time. Not sure what they did with them. There were stacks one week(for $248) and the next week, nothing. Unfortunately I don't think they sold a lot of them. For $160 I think I might have picked one up.

They had quite a few here a couple of weeks back. I'll have to check - although at this point I'd really rather have the 2180, because there are a couple of different features it has that I like. But if the 3576's tuner is more sensitive or slightly amped, like with the 3575's was when I compared to the 2080, then that might trump it.

But $160.00 might be too good to pass up. Thing is, the only times I've ever seen anything marked down that much at the Sam's here, it was always and only the display model (and being Xmas, if they did have any new for that price, they're probably long gone by now). Don't know if I'd want their display model, as it's been sitting out there for a long, long time now.

I have to go there anyway for a few things, so I'll bring some extra dough with me just in case.

Generaly, Sams Club does not mark items as sale. However, if the price ends in .01 (one cent) then it's on sale.

I have two Sam's Clubs in my area, one selling the 3576 for $248, the other for $223--unfortunately don't have the $160 deal, even the floor model will probably not go that low, judging by their other clearance prices.

I did pick up one for $223, but haven't opened it because it has a February 2008 manufacturing date and so I might return it. When I scanned this thread I noticed those made in May or later are considered less prong to bugs. Could someone let me know what issues the February model might have, or point me to where to look in addition to this thread? Thanks!

The only reason you might want as late a dated one as you can find is if you subscribe to basic (analog) cable, esp. Comcast. If you have an antenna, digital cable or satellite service, odds are good you won't have any problem, i.e., temp. loss of digital channel tuning due to analog interference.

Just got back from Sam's - still $248.00.

There was a Feb. one on the top of the pile, but the newest they had before was April, so there may be some of those underneath.

The Walmarts in my district make their clearance markdowns on Mondays... maybe Sams are the same?

Well, it looks like this thread is just about dead, but here's an interesting bit of news, if anyone out there has Comcast.

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=412029

It seems that some Comcast outlets that are going all-digital are giving people these simple little boxes described as "DTAs" (I'm thinking "digital tuning...something") to get their digital channels on. Seems these boxes can't be used to get any premium services, and don't even have audio/video outputs. Just RF outputs.

Some suspect (or even seem to KNOW) that the boxes are simple QAM tuners meant to provide digital cable channels to older TVs.

It's also been said the channels don't seem to be scrambled.

If this is true, then it's possible at least some Comcast outlets are going to put all basic (digital) cable channels out unscrambled in the near future, available to anything with a QAM tuner.

Thought I'd share.

Well, it looks like this thread is just about dead, but here's an interesting bit of news, if anyone out there has Comcast.

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=412029

It seems that some Comcast outlets that are going all-digital are giving people these simple little boxes described as "DTAs" (I'm thinking "digital tuning...something") to get their digital channels on. Seems these boxes can't be used to get any premium services, and don't even have audio/video outputs. Just RF outputs.

Some suspect (or even seem to KNOW) that the boxes are simple QAM tuners meant to provide digital cable channels to older TVs.

It's also been said the channels don't seem to be scrambled.

If this is true, then it's possible at least some Comcast outlets are going to put all basic (digital) cable channels out unscrambled in the near future, available to anything with a QAM tuner.

Thought I'd share.
This is the same for the Magnavox H2160MW9 thread.
No new problems and/or no new users.

Sam's Club Auction:
http://auctions.samsclub.com/Scripts/LotSearch.asp?t=a&submitFlag=1&SORTBY=4&merchflag=1&PrevURL=%2Fdefault.htm&TitleOnly=N&SearchMode=gallery&prodname=1173651

Well, it looks like this thread is just about dead, but here's an interesting bit of news, if anyone out there has Comcast.

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=412029

It seems that some Comcast outlets that are going all-digital are giving people these simple little boxes described as "DTAs" (I'm thinking "digital tuning...something") to get their digital channels on. Seems these boxes can't be used to get any premium services, and don't even have audio/video outputs. Just RF outputs.

Some suspect (or even seem to KNOW) that the boxes are simple QAM tuners meant to provide digital cable channels to older TVs.

It's also been said the channels don't seem to be scrambled.

If this is true, then it's possible at least some Comcast outlets are going to put all basic (digital) cable channels out unscrambled in the near future, available to anything with a QAM tuner.

Thought I'd share.The channels are still scrambled except for the required clear QAM locals. The DTA is a digital TV adapter which is nothing more than a stripped down STB. They will generally give you only 1 for "free" as part of your subscription and require you to rent any additional ones you need. Verizon FIOS already started this a year ago in select areas -- they discontinue all analog channels and provide you with a single free adapter for your account. You pay for any additional ones at a price that is about half what a full STB costs. They cut analog to DE last May.

The writing is on the wall for anyone who wants to open their eyes and read it. After the 2/19 analog broadcasting in all forms and support for analog reception in new devices will cease very quickly. I give it no more than a year.

Sam's Club Auction:
http://auctions.samsclub.com/Scripts/LotSearch.asp?t=a&submitFlag=1&SORTBY=4&merchflag=1&PrevURL=%2Fdefault.htm&TitleOnly=N&SearchMode=gallery&prodname=1173651

Interesting, thanks. One thing though, the site doesn't mention whether the recorders are new or open box customer returns.

Interesting, thanks. One thing though, the site doesn't mention whether the recorders are new or open box customer returns.
They are all new units

They are all new units

I could't find that. Where does it say new?

I been doing this for over a year, all products are new
If you have a concern call them.

OK, thanks for the update.

They really should specify "new" in the item description because so many auction sites routinely sell open box or refurbished items.

OK, thanks for the update.

They really should specify "new" in the item description because so many auction sites routinely sell open box or refurbished items.
I have a bid in now for one. We know what there worth so we bid accordingly

Umm, and what, may I ask, do you believe they're worth??

Umm, and what, may I ask, do you believe they're worth??Well, personally, I wouldn't pay more than $248.00 plus local tax. ;)

Umm, and what, may I ask, do you believe they're worth??
Since I already own a 3575 and a Magnavox H2160 I won't be bidding very high less than $150 if I get one that's fine in not nothing really lost.
1 just went for $213
This site is strange I've see people way over bid than what the product is worth.
It's like gambling they get caught up in the bidding and forget what you can buy the thing for outright
I usually search the net for the going price on the product then bid accordinly

3575 will not output 1080P to a brand new Panasonic TH-42PZ80U plasma 1080P through HDMI, all other resolutions work.

I been doing this for over a year, all products are new
If you have a concern call them.


Do you have to be a Sam's Club member to bid on the auctions?

Do you have to be a Sam's Club member to bid on the auctions?
Not sure, but I think so.
Currently winning with a Bid of $86
*** Update I lost
The last 4 went for $241, $216, $213, $216

FYI:
Since acquiring new equipment the 3575 and H2160 have been relegated to recorders only, producing home grown DVD’s (mostly movies) from DirecTv HD/SD
Both machines are producing excellent PQ DVD’s
Example: recorded a b&w movie from 193? GUNGA DIN. Played back on a Panasonic BD35 Blue-Ray the PQ is Stunning.
Most all my viewing is done via the DirecTV HR22 HD DVR (upgraded to 1TB HDD) or the BD35 on Panasonic 42 plasma or HT Projector (100” screen)
On average I’m creating 4 Movies per day.
The 3575/6 and H2160 are great machines, they seem to be really the best choice for a recorder at this time.(that will produce DVD's)

Hello,

I'm using the 3575H, and twice now since purchasing it one year ago I've stumbled across this particular problem. I attempt to record a program to the HDD, and receive an error message stating something to the effect of "Recording could not start." Afterwards, it leaves a blank title on the HDD menu with a recording symbol next to it. The title is empty and can't be deleted for whatever reason. Not only that, but it also seems to stall how quickly other recorded programs around it load. Does anyone happen to know what causes this or how to remove the blank titles?

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

That has happened before when you start a manual rec with the REC button, then decide to immediately stop the recording while the HDD an rec icon are still on screen. Yours apparently happened when a recording (manual or timer?) somehow couldn't start, so it automatically stopped the rec with the icon still on screen???

Anyway, my wife got rid on that title in the normal manner with "Delete" after I had no success. You can try deleting it AFTER turning machine off and back on. Make sure you wait for ALL index pics to regenerate fully before trying a delete.

The only sure cure is to use the HDD Menu > Delete All Titles. See item H7 in this help file for more info on that. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12309999&postcount=24)

^Thanks for your help. Since I have a lot of titles I need to back up on disc before erasing, I tried the process mentioned in the article you posted, where you Protect the titles you wish to save and use the "Delete All Unprotected Titles" from the HDD menu to eliminate the unwanted titles. Anywho, I didn't have any luck going that route. So it appears I need to save all of my titles to disc, and use the Delete All Titles feature instead.

I just wish there was a way I could access the 3575H's hard drive from my PC. It would make backing up these titles less tedious and time consuming.

Thanks again. :cool:

You're the 2nd person who said the Protect Title method doesn't work, so time to change that.

Don't give up trying to delete that rogue title in the normal way cuz I tried many times once and gave up, turned machine off. My wife turned it on a hour or so later and asked what that title was. I told her and she said I'm fulloshitzu, she deleted it on first try!

Get you sig. other to try it... he/she might have the magic touch... or it just takes a woman's touch!? :D

You're the 2nd person who said the Protect Title method doesn't work, so time to change that.

Don't give up trying to delete that rogue title in the normal way cuz I tried many times once and gave up, turned machine off. My wife turned it on a hour or so later and asked what that title was. I told her and she said I'm fulloshitzu, she deleted it on first try!

Get you sig. other to try it... he/she might have the magic touch... or it just takes a woman's touch!? :D

wajo,

First of all I want to thank you for all the effort you are putting into this and the Magnavox H2160 thread...

In the market for some kind of "time-shifting" device to replace some VCR's (I'm OTA only)... and the info you have been posting is making me think consider the purchase of the Philips 3576 / Magnavox H2160.

Seems to me the Philips 3576 / Magnavox H2160 is a pretty good VCR replacement.. the BIG selling point being they do have a hard-drive..

To the manufacturers:

A: As someone who is in the US market I'm very "disturbed" to find that that the manufacturers have exited US market...
(I personally think the mfg's pulled out too soon- especially considering there is going to be millions upon millions of people out there would do NOT want to pay a monthly fee each month for "TV" that are going to be going digital and want a VCR /TIVO type device.)

(HINT-HINT to the manufacturers -keep making units with Hard-Drives- and put a FULL EPG guide like on the DishNetwork /EchoStar DTVPal /TR-40CRA , DTVPal DVR...)

B: When I'm considering a purchase- Finding a thread like this makes me want to BUY your product.

As a aside- when I run across a product that is easy to work on, can be "hacked" /modified - this case maybe installing a bigger hard-drive... that makes me want to buy the product. It turns me off say for example the DVD burner was to die- and it is proprietary.... ditto on the hard-drive..
Use standard components and the word will spread your units have a "low" cost of ownership. No-one likes a product that's expensive to repair.


Also considering the below options - So I'm totally confused...
DTVPal DVR
HD HTPC - (building one)
SiliconDust HDHomeRun Dual Digital Tuner

Like the SiliconDust HDHomeRun Dual Digital Tuner / HD HTPC route as I'm looking on "getting-out" of the computer room via putting it on a network and being able to access it from any PC... and like the fact it is HD (instead of SD like the Philips 3576 / Magnavox H2160?)



PS: On the wife being able to delete the title... You mention turning the unit OFF, then back on and the wife being able to delete the file... Sounds like on a PC when a file is in "use".


.

I agree that the HD recorder is needed, but the problem is the DVRs that are supplied by the cable and satellite providers. I recently shifted to Directv and use my hr22 all the time in place of my polo and phillips. The DVR records in hd and is easy to program, The comparison is not even close as far as pq and ease of use. But I do use the 75 to record from the 22 to DVD and get excellent quality, so there is a place for them but limited to those who want permanent backup.

I agree that the HD recorder is needed, but the problem is the DVRs that are supplied by the cable and satellite providers. I recently shifted to Directv and use my hr22 all the time in place of my polo and phillips. The DVR records in hd and is easy to program, The comparison is not even close as far as pq and ease of use. But I do use the 75 to record from the 22 to DVD and get excellent quality, so there is a place for them but limited to those who want permanent backup.
I have basically the same setup. HR22 with 1TB HDD record lots of movies sd/hd/pfv/vod select ones I want to keep, they go to the 3575 for editing then recorded to DVD. Play back is through a Panasonic BD35 up scaled to 1080P with excellent results.

Also considering the below options - So I'm totally confused...
DTVPal DVR.The Pal DVR is a Dish-built dual tuner 250GB HDTV-DVR (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12724177#post12724177) (30 hr HD recording) for digital OTA only. Full digital TVGOS guide, no monthly fees, record/playback in HD, ethernet connectivity, no built-in DVD burner but composite out for archiving. This would be the primary recorder for an OTA user; most attractive to those with HDTV's; can attach any DVD recorder to the output for archiving select programs. Pre-orders were taken in mid-November, first units due to ship this week. If it lives up to it's specs., this is the box for OTA users, especially those with HDTV's.

The Pal DVR is a Dish-built dual tuner 250GB HDTV-DVR (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12724177#post12724177) (30 hr HD recording) for digital OTA only. Full digital TVGOS guide, no monthly fees, record/playback in HD, ethernet connectivity, no built-in DVD burner but composite out for archiving. This would be the primary recorder for an OTA user; most attractive to those with HDTV's; can attach any DVD recorder to the output for archiving select programs. Pre-orders were taken in mid-November, first units due to ship this week. If it lives up to it's specs., this is the box for OTA users, especially those with HDTV's.

Kelson, did you happen to place one of those pre-orders?

Kelson, did you happen to place one of those pre-orders?No way. I don't gamble. Enough people did though, so there will be plenty of feedback soon. My #1 priority, as always, is PQ and #2 is recording reliability. Give me those two and I'll put up with design limitations and minor bugs.

I've been trying to bid on the a 3576 on the Sam's site for the last 5 days. There is a bidder, D.Z., who has bought 5 for $245, 1 for $254, and 1 last night for $268. Something seems off to me about this, I've only seen him not bid on 2 units in the last 5 days (and I may have missed a few bids) and those went for a more reasonable amount. Does anybody have any idea on what's going on? He's not getting a deal at $268 after taxes and shipping and to have bought so many (at least 7), something seems fishy. Any thoughts? Money is very tight and was really hoping to be able to get one.
Thanks.

Since I already own a 3575 and a Magnavox H2160 I won't be bidding very high less than $150 if I get one that's fine in not nothing really lost.
1 just went for $213
This site is strange I've see people way over bid than what the product is worth.
It's like gambling they get caught up in the bidding and forget what you can buy the thing for outright
I usually search the net for the going price on the product then bid accordinly

^^ That's strange indeed. Maybe he's got money to burn. I'd try to stay under half of what it would cost retail, and not to too far over if I really had to. It does sound like gambling-or 'auction' fever. Getting caught up in the thrill of trying to win.
I don't think Walmart/Sam's would need to pull anything underhanded like having someone goose the bidding to draw in bidders to pay more. I hope they don't.

^^ That's strange indeed. Maybe he's got money to burn. I'd try to stay under half of what it would cost retail, and not to too far over if I really had to. It does sound like gambling-or 'auction' fever. Getting caught up in the thrill of trying to win.
I don't think Walmart/Sam's would need to pull anything underhanded like having someone goose the bidding to draw in bidders to pay more. I hope they don't.
Right now best buy IMO is the Maggie at Walmart.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10104532

FYI: There is a bidder, D.Z. (from a very small town in Ohio)
Who knows what he's producing with 5+ recorders.

FYI: Recently purchased new Panasonic 42PZ80 1080P plasma.
I find setting the HDMI output to 480P on the 3575/2160H and letting the Panny do the upscale results in better overall PQ watching TV or a recordings.

Could be a shill bidder, it happens all the time, or like said maybe he has more money then brains and is gambling that the things will go way up in price when the supply dries up.
I'd watch his feedback if they have it and see if he goes negative and if they show back up for sale in a week or so.
I've been scammed and shill bid against before on Ebay, the shill bid drove my auction for a nice printer up but I still got it 100 cheaper then a new one so I went ahead with the sale. I did go directly to the sellers store to pick it up though as it left a bad taste in my mouth and I wanted to see it and pay in person after all that. Luckily he was JUST close enough to drive to.
The scam I lost my money and EBay was no help at all. How was I supposed to come up with a receipt from Florida for the seller cashing my money order? A lot of people got scammed by that seller. Make sure all their positive feedback is for true deals and not send "me money and I send you a file and positive feedback".

Could be a shill bidder, it happens all the time, or like said maybe he has more money then brains and is gambling that the things will go way up in price when the supply dries up.
I'd watch his feedback if they have it and see if he goes negative and if they show back up for sale in a week or so.
I've been scammed and shill bid against before on Ebay, the shill bid drove my auction for a nice printer up but I still got it 100 cheaper then a new one so I went ahead with the sale. I did go directly to the sellers store to pick it up though as it left a bad taste in my mouth and I wanted to see it and pay in person after all that. Luckily he was JUST close enough to drive to.
The scam I lost my money and EBay was no help at all. How was I supposed to come up with a receipt from Florida for the seller cashing my money order? A lot of people got scammed by that seller. Make sure all their positive feedback is for true deals and not send "me money and I send you a file and positive feedback".
I really don't think Sam's Club would do any underhanded deals on this site. Just crazy people with bid-itis
All items are supplied by Sam's not outside vendors.

Well your probably right about that but it's still suspicious the guys bidding close to retail on the things and buying all those units.
I guess watch ebay and see if they show up though I doubt they are going for big money, but like you said, bid disease does happen.:D
I'd look at completed auction on both sites and see what typical closing prices are.

As far as I know, the only one who's selling it for less than $268.00 is Sam's - maybe he doesn't have a Sam's Club in his region - or a membership, or they're all out of them.

Well your probably right about that but it's still suspicious the guys bidding close to retail on the things and buying all those units.
I guess watch ebay and see if they show up though I doubt they are going for big money, but like you said, bid disease does happen.:D
I'd look at completed auction on both sites and see what typical closing prices are.
When they first go up for bid I make a small bid, this way I get all the results at final close.
Here what the last bunch went for:
213 224 242 278 277 286 237 253 220 245 245 245 245 245 253 245 216 213 (newest to oldest)

He's bought at least 8 now.

Do you think there are any Sam's Clubs that have them in stock?

As far as I know, the only one who's selling it for less than $268.00 is Sam's - maybe he doesn't have a Sam's Club in his region - or a membership, or they're all out of them.

He's bought at least 8 now.

Do you think there are any Sam's Clubs that have them in stock?
He could be buying them to ship to a different country.

Ummm.... What other country would they work in (besides Canada)?

Just finished dubbing a movie. So far, so good; but when I go to "Disc Edit", in order to finalize the disc, "Finalize" is grayed out. Can anyone think of any reason why it won't allow me to finalize?? Thanks...

If you have a scheduled event programmed within the next hour you cannot finalize discs.

Ditto what jjeff said, but you can change the Start time of a timer rec program that's within 1-hour, then Finalize, then change Start time back, or even delete the program and re-enter after Finalizing if really pressed for time on that disc. I've got three 3575's so I just use another machine. :)

i have a 3576H.
i don't know how long my recorder has been doing this, but , I noticed that when my wife and i got home from Christmas shopping the other night and i heard a noise coming from my entertainment center. after a little checking i found out the noise was from the cooling fan that was running on the back of my recorder. the unit was powered off. its not very loud, it's just that my daughter has recently moved to Fl. and it's much more quiet at the house now and that's probably why i just noticed it. i turned the unit on and back off and the fan went off for just a min. or 2 and then it ( the fan ) came back on. it comes on for a while and then off. i have noticed that it has come on a couple more times ( that i know of ) with the unit being powered off. I just didn't know if it was normal for the fan to run when the unit is powered off, or if I have a problem. :( other than the fan.....it works great! any help would be appreciated !

The Philips and Mag DVDRs "spin up" at 11:59 am and pm to search for a time signal as long as Auto Clock is set to ON or MANUAL. There's no indication on the front panel when it does this, just a barely audible sound.

The Philips and Mag DVDRs "spin up" at 11:59 am and pm to search for a time signal as long as Auto Clock is set to ON or MANUAL. There's no indication on the front panel when it does this, just a barely audible sound.

Thanks wajo for the reply.
It is now 11:10am and it sounds like it is running again and I just checked the clock setting and it is set to manual. could there be another setting that I need to check ? I was just listening to the sound it makes and it does sound more like a hard drive spinning than the cooling fan.

Try setting your Auto Clock OFF, which will eliminate that as the sound you hear?

Try setting your Auto Clock OFF, which will eliminate that as the sound you hear?

I must be getting that gray hair syndrome :D I went back to check the settings on the clock and there was "no manual setting"? then I checked a little closer...... and I was looking at the settings for my panny e55. I have one of those also :rolleyes:.
I changed the setting for the clock. I had it set for auto, so maybe that will take care of it. I'll keep an eye on it for a day or so and see what happens.
Thanks for your help !

I must be getting that gray hair syndrome :D I went back to check the settings on the clock and there was "no manual setting"? then I checked a little closer...... and I was looking at the settings for my panny e55. I have one of those also :rolleyes:.
I changed the setting for the clock. I had it set for auto, so maybe that will take care of it. I'll keep an eye on it for a day or so and see what happens.
Thanks for your help !
If you want to go back to Auto Clock ON, here's an "11:57 Procedure" (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298425&postcount=11) for setting it to search for a time signal on ONLY a channel in your area that you can CONFIRM will set the clock accurately... also shortens search and "spin-up" time.

Maybe you sound was coming from the EH55 (E55?), esp. if TVGOS is set (if it's a EH55).

If you want to go back to Auto Clock ON, here's an "11:57 Procedure" (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298425&postcount=11) for setting it to search for a time signal on ONLY a channel in your area that you can CONFIRM will set the clock accurately... also shortens search and "spin-up" time.

Maybe you sound was coming from the EH55 (E55?), esp. if TVGOS is set (if it's a EH55).

It seems like turning off the auto clock has taken care of the noise. I checked the E55, but the noise was coming from the 76. I have not heard it all day now, so i think that has taken care of it.
Thanks so much for your help !

It seems like turning off the auto clock has taken care of the noise. I checked the E55, but the noise was coming from the 76. I have not heard it all day now, so i think that has taken care of it.
Thanks so much for your help !
Just an FYI: With Auto Clock OFF and Manual blank, your power-off time w/o losing clock or timer rec programs will be ~30 sec.

With Auto Clock ON or Manual w/channel # (even if a channel that doesn't provide a time signal), the backup time should be ~2 min. I've gotten up to 2.5 min. on some of my tests w/3575... almost 5 min. one time, but must have been a fluke cuz couldn't reproduce it.

Thanks wajo for all you help ! I'll check it out.

I am not in to attempting region free hacks, but it totally escapes me why anyone would even consider attempting it to do it to a $300 recorder and possibly causing damage to it which Philips would be under no obligation to repair under warranty.
The reason for region free is to be able to discs purchased in other parts of the world which are unobtainable in the US - such as PAL discs from the UK of older TV programs. I've been doing this for years. The difficulty is that although it will then recognize the disk it will produce PAL output - this then needs converting to NTSC to play on a US TV. The solution is either a video converter, or a multi-system TV.

ECost.com has 3576 in stock

http://www.ecost.com/Detail/DVD+Players+and+Recorders/Philips/DVDR3576H37/40614859.aspx?navid=155438248

The reason for region free is to be able to discs purchased in other parts of the world which are unobtainable in the US - such as PAL discs from the UK of older TV programs. I've been doing this for years. The difficulty is that although it will then recognize the disk it will produce PAL output - this then needs converting to NTSC to play on a US TV. The solution is either a video converter, or a multi-system TV.
Region Free DVD recorders:
http://www.planetomni.com/Prod_MSDVDR.shtml

My player save the digital channels for a day or so then looses them. Any possible fix?

My player save the digital channels for a day or so then looses them. Any possible fix?

Try plugging it into a computer UPS. You could be experiencing line power ripples or drops that reset the unit.

Oh boy...

Look at this-
http://www.heartlandamerica.com/browse/item.asp?product=philips-dvd--r-with-160gb-hard-drive&PIN=65355&GUID=30DDB7C6-4B0D-4F3C-8DFE-D9F7C291884A&BC=10001002&DL=SCH4

Try plugging it into a computer UPS. You could be experiencing line power ripples or drops that reset the unit.

it is plugged in an ups

FYI: Format HDD, replace your HDD with same or larger drive.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13686310&postcount=709

My player save the digital channels for a day or so then looses them. Any possible fix?

You seem to have ignored requests to identify your equipment and application. How do you expect the forum member's to provide help or guidance?

If you don't want to do that, why don't you just call the manufacter's support line and ask them for help?

Maybe Leka's lonely? :D

You seem to have ignored requests to identify your equipment and application. How do you expect the forum member's to help or guidance?

If you don't want to do that, why don't you just call the manufacter's support line and ask them for help?


Umm.. this is a Philips DVDR3575H/37 160G HDD DVD Recorder w/ ATSC tuner forum right? Why would I have to do I have to identify my equipment?

Maybe Leka's lonely? :D

Why must you be so rude?

Umm.. this is a Philips DVDR3575H/37 160G HDD DVD Recorder w/ ATSC tuner forum right? Why would I have to do I have to identify my equipment?

You also post the same questions in the Forum that also covers the DVDR3576 and the Magnavox 2160, and their owners often post in the DVDR3575 forum since they have many common issues and features.

I don't believe you have ever said whether you are OTA (Over the Air using an antenna) or on a cable system. There have been almost no reports of the loss of channels from the tables when used OTA. There were a number of reports of the problem with cable customers, and getting Philips or the seller to exchange the units was the only thing that seemed to work at all, and sometimes required multiple exchanges.

You also post the same questions in the Forum that also covers the DVDR3576 and the Magnavox 2160, and their owners often post in the DVDR3575 forum since they have many common issues and features.

I don't believe you have ever said whether you are OTA (Over the Air using an antenna) or on a cable system. There have been almost no reports of the loss of channels from the tables when used OTA. There were a number of reports of the problem with cable customers, and getting Philips or the seller to exchange the units was the only thing that seemed to work at all, and sometimes required multiple exchanges.

Cable system without a cable box.

Cable system without a cable box.If you are still in warranty, you need to contact Philips or the place you bought the unit from to see if they will do an exchange. If you are out of warranty, you are probably out of luck.

My player save the digital channels for a day or so then looses them. Any possible fix?Yes - tighten them. :)

The reason for region free is to be able to discs purchased in other parts of the world which are unobtainable in the US - such as PAL discs from the UK of older TV programs. I've been doing this for years. The difficulty is that although it will then recognize the disk it will produce PAL output - this then needs converting to NTSC to play on a US TV. The solution is either a video converter, or a multi-system TV.

Another solution:

I found a media player on fleabay. $30 plus an old hard drive. I rip non region discs to iso and play on the media player. The output is 1080p so the original resolution and frame rate makes no difference. The biggest problem is that a full quality rip is about 10 gig, fills up a hard drive quickly. I only have 10 foreign discs so things are under control.

Another solution:

I found a media player on fleabay. $30 plus an old hard drive. I rip non region discs to iso and play on the media player. The output is 1080p so the original resolution and frame rate makes no difference. The biggest problem is that a full quality rip is about 10 gig, fills up a hard drive quickly. I only have 10 foreign discs so things are under control.
Suggested Solution: Replace HDD with larger one.

Hello,

After looking at 77 pages and not finding anyone asking this question.

I am wondering if the Hard Drive can be upgraded?
160gb is cool ... 320gb ... would be even cooler.
I would think this is an IDE configuration?
Fat 32?
Master Slave two hard drives?
Or Can I just put in a replacement 160gb Hard drive? Then I could swap between the two drives.

Maybe put in a new upgraded drive and run a factory reset?

Has anyone tried this? If not, I will try and see what I can get

Sorry if this has already been posted.

By thanks for all the great information. and I would be surprised if this has not come up already.

Thanks!

Hello,

After looking at 77 pages and not finding anyone asking this question.

I am wondering if the Hard Drive can be upgraded?
160gb is cool ... 320gb ... would be even cooler.
I would think this is an IDE configuration?
Fat 32?
Master Slave two hard drives?
Or Can I just put in a replacement 160gb Hard drive? Then I could swap between the two drives.

Maybe put in a new upgraded drive and run a factory reset?

Has anyone tried this? If not, I will try and see what I can get

Sorry if this has already been posted.

By thanks for all the great information. and I would be surprised if this has not come up already.

Thanks!
Yes, it can be replaced. Some of us are already "drooling" for an external drive enclosure with swappable drives since they retain their formatting and files intact.

See the SKIP 079 code here for info and report from soemone who did it already (Dartman... he's currently testing it for any long-term effects, none so far). (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13686310&postcount=709)

;) still working, did some more editing today and it's busy capping Life on Mars right now ( great show)

I'm very curious how Auskck found out that pressing the skip button and 3 numbers does something? Is this typical with most electronics with remotes - i.e. pressing a button then some numbers and, voila, up pops some super secret programming and information screens? It's just fascinating to me; I would never have thought to even try something like that.

Jim

I'm very curious how Auskck found out that pressing the skip button and 3 numbers does something? Is this typical with most electronics with remotes - i.e. pressing a button then some numbers and, voila, up pops some super secret programming and information screens? It's just fascinating to me; I would never have thought to even try something like that.
Yes, prob. all DVDRs have some info or utility functions activated with the remote. Our DVDR's SKIP functions started with the 3575's FW upgrade instructions, which describe the way to find the FW Versions of a machine by using SKIP 123.

Then I tried all the sequential SKIP numbers, 234, 345, 456, etc. and found those listed here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13686310&postcount=709), except for 079, which was added later.

I'm very curious how Auskck found out that pressing the skip button and 3 numbers does something? Is this typical with most electronics with remotes - i.e. pressing a button then some numbers and, voila, up pops some super secret programming and information screens? It's just fascinating to me; I would never have thought to even try something like that.

Jim
My following equipment all have service codes.
Pansonic TV
Pansonic BR
DirecTV HR22
Maggie 2160
Philips 3575

Almost any recorder or tv made after maybe 95 should have some sort of service menu activated be semi secret code presses on the remote. My Toshiba TV's also have them and you have to write down every setting in case you accidentally or on purpose find the master reset code that reverts the unit back to default, un factory tweaked settings. I did that with my Small Toshiba set and would have been screwed if I hadn't noted all settings on paper before I tried new key combos. A unadjusted TV that's digitally controlled is completely unwatchable and over driven till setup properly for every little setting:rolleyes:
So if you play, write down anything that can be changed before you do it, and don't cry later if you mess something up royally.
I don't think there are a lot of fully destructive codes for these machines, unless you get stupid and format a drive that has keepers on it.

Does anyone know if the remote control codes for the DVDR3576H are available? I would like to run everything through my universal remote control.

Does anyone know if the remote control codes for the DVDR3576H are available? I would like to run everything through my universal remote control.

So far, afaik, no one has reported finding any remote codes that work on a generic universal remote. The only thing I recall seeing is the Harmony universal remotes have the 3576 & 2160 listed in their compatible database.

So far, afaik, no one has reported finding any remote codes that work on a generic universal remote. The only thing I recall seeing is the Harmony universal remotes have the 3576 & 2160 listed in their compatible database.
Thanks. I'll look into it.

So far, afaik, no one has reported finding any remote codes that work on a generic universal remote. The only thing I recall seeing is the Harmony universal remotes have the 3576 & 2160 listed in their compatible database.

I have my 3575 working fine on my Harmony. I don't think I had to manually learn any command. :cool:

Guys - I have tried to search to no avail.

I can't get this thing to recognize a blank DVD +r. Also, the "DUB" function is greyed out... any thing I am missing? I am trying to copy from the HD to a DVD. Thanks.

Did you push the DVD button on the remote? That will switch it over to the dvd drive and play things or show what type of blank is loaded in the drive.
The HDD button is for the hard drive part. I'm pretty sure dubbing only works with a blank + or - disk loaded into the machine and it set to HDD mode, then you have to hit setup and go to dubbing unless you just want to do a direct dub from a non copy protected disk, then you hit the direct/dubbing button on the remote.
if the disk is not blank or bad or something it might grey out as well.
If you do get into setup and then dubbing it should give you the option of HD to dvd or dvd to HD and some quality/speed options and add files and like that.
Wajo's guide probably covers it better then I have but figured I'd jump in and maybe you'll see something you missed.

Guys - I have tried to search to no avail.

I can't get this thing to recognize a blank DVD +r. Also, the "DUB" function is greyed out... any thing I am missing? I am trying to copy from the HD to a DVD. Thanks.
The "Dubbing" option will be greyed out until a disc is recognized and fully loaded. I'd try another disc, for starters.

I usually insert a disc, then select the DVD drive and watch the "Loading" progress bar, then open the Setup menu to start a dub... while watching that progress bar, there *should* a message of some sort if the disc just can't be recognized, such as "This is not a recordable disc" or some such? Also, if the disc is Finalized, it would just load, then of course the "Dubbing" option wouldn't become active... pressing the Disc Menu button would indicate that. If a menu appears, you can arrow left and see disc status info.

Dubbing help can be found in this file, if needed. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12327722&postcount=26)

Thank you - I'll try again in the morning.

Thanks again very much -
I picked up some Verbatim +Rs at lunch today - will check them out tonight. I was trying to use Memorex -R to no avail... this could be the problem.

Remeber this from the user manual:

Following discs are recommended for good recording
quality and are proven to be compatible with this unit.
However, depending on the media condition the unit
may not read the disc properly.
Verbatim DVD+R 8x, DVD+RW 4x,
DVD-R 8x, DVD-RW 2x
JVC DVD-RW 4x
Maxell DVD+R 4x/8x/16x, DVD-R 8x/16x
SONY DVD+R 4x/8x/16x, DVD+RW 4x
TDK DVD+R 4x/8x/16x
Performance of any other discs are not guaranteed.

In short, don't use low quality discs.

The above text is found on page 38 of the DVDR3575H/37 Owner's Manual copyrighted in 2007, see page 4.

The quality of current production discs may be very different today. Excepting the JVC brand, I've used all those brands in recent years. I have a limited number (around 200) Malaysian 16X Sonys on hand (DVD-R and DVD+R). The Sonys are used for non-essential recording. My essential recording discs are Taiyo Yuden Premium Line 8X DVD-R. With only around 725 TYs on hand it's time to reorder.

With only around 725 TYs on hand it's time to reorder.

:eek:Only Digado starts panicking when he gets down to 725 on hand;):D

I probably have around 3 or 4 hundred disks left, some are antique 4x stuff, most is 1 to 2 years old now, quickly running out of my best stuff. It seems that for the most part the Philips does well with any media I have, though some will occasionally crap out they mostly always play well and test very well.
I do recommend finding the best media you can but like DigaDo says, it's getting really hard to find high quality media, and Memorex almost never has any. I try to learn what countries make the best media, and media codes to look for on the center spindles in tiny lettering.
If you ever find any that says made in Japan/Jopon it might be TY media, possibly Sony and usually is some of the best stuff.
CDFreaks and other places have threads about what to look for if you really want to research. Be prepared to get strange looks as you dig out cake boxes looking for the magic codes and things:D

The way you guys were talking about these things disappearing got me worried. I bought my 3576 thurs. nite at Wally World. Recorded and edited my first NCAA game tonight, and burned a beautiful DVD from it which I am watching at this very moment. So far, I like this unit a lot. The title renaming stinks bad though. Both my old Philips 3455 and my Sylvania HDRV200F kill the lousy titling system used on the 3576. Also wish they had kept the Volume Control from the 3455 remote. It comes in handy in my setup. Oh well, small complaint overall. They got most of it right with this one.

The way you guys were talking about these things disappearing got me worried. I bought my 3576 thurs. nite at Wally World. Recorded and edited my first NCAA game tonight, and burned a beautiful DVD from it which I am watching at this very moment. So far, I like this unit a lot. The title renaming stinks bad though. Both my old Philips 3455 and my Sylvania HDRV200F kill the lousy titling system used on the 3576. Also wish they had kept the Volume Control from the 3455 remote. It comes in handy in my setup. Oh well, small complaint overall. They got most of it right with this one.
For more up to date information switch to this thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940657

:eek:Only Digado starts panicking when he gets down to 725 on hand;):D

Don't forget ME;)! I'm down to a single crate (600) and starting to freak already, after discovering the last few spindles of Sony I bought on sale recently aren't burning (high speed copy) on any of my standalones. With a couple thousand VHS still waiting to be transferred, I gotta look for another TY sale soon: the lowest I ever paid for the premium 8x was around $31/100 delivered. I don't know what the availability is of unbranded TY around the world, but if you can order it online within your particular country (like we do in North America) its a lot easier than hunting for special package codes on store brands.

Well, I just bought some Verbatim +R and they work fine.

However, the Verbatim +RW 4x I also picked-up are not recognized! Darn it - they are on the good media list... what is up ya think?

Well, I just bought some Verbatim +R and they work fine.

However, the Verbatim +RW 4x I also picked-up are not recognized! Darn it - they are on the good media list... what is up ya think?
If you have a 3575 and haven't installed the 3575 FW upgrade, it *might* help since the description is:

Firmware upgrade history

Firmware BE Version: HD4P3374EH1E
Improvements:
• Solve hang-up after attempting playback of certain unsupported JPEG formats

Firmware FE Version: R40_016_000
Improvements:
• Improve optical drive performance

The FE upgrade is not well described but it prob. couldn't hurt, and just might help?

If not already installed, here's a link to the 3575 FW upgrade file and instructions. (http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?scy=US&slg=AEN&cat=DVD_HOME_THEATER_CA&sct=DVD_HARDDISK_RECORDERS_SU&grp=HOME_ENTERTAINMENT_GR&session=20081008181619_72.146.14.149&ctn=DVDR3575H/37&mid=Link_Software&hlt=Link_Software)

Na no good. It appears I am up to date on the ol firmware...

Na no good. It appears I am up to date on the ol firmware...
Check the Media ID (MID) of both a +R and a +RW disc with the 3575's on-board utility described here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298494#DVDcare8)... see if the MID is really good?

What RW discs work for sure?
The Verbatim +RW 4x I picked up do not.
Thanks.

Well, I just bought some Verbatim +R and they work fine.

However, the Verbatim +RW 4x I also picked-up are not recognized! Darn it - they are on the good media list... what is up ya think?


I've heard that a while back Verbatim switched to having their DVDs made in a different country, the quality never being the same again.

I use only TYs now.

The Verbatims are coded MKM (Mitsibishi) - which are ranked Tier #1

They will not be recognized to record with... Any good RW's out there that work?

The Verbatims are coded MKM (Mitsibishi) - which are ranked Tier #1

They will not be recognized to record with... Any good RW's out there that work?
I thought Mitsubishi were MCC (for Mitsubishi Chemical Corp).

I thought Mitsubishi were MCC (for Mitsubishi Chemical Corp).
Also Mitsubishi-Kagaku Media (MKM)

Also Mitsubishi-Kagaku Media (MKM)
Ah So. :cool:

OK - I'll try them. Thanks.

I have had this machine for less than a year but have recorded hundreds of movies & other programs onto the HD & copied a majority of them onto DVDs.
I have found that some movies I record to the HD & watch will not copy to a DVD. Sometimes just editing a movie before playing it renders it unplayable. Some will play again on the HD; others will just occupy space but show only a black screen. This happens most often with FoxMovie Channel but occasionally with TCM. One of Fox's movies I recorded from HD to DVD; now the copy on the HD is blank but still occupies its space. Another I watched on the HD, but it would not copy to a DVD. Yet it still plays on the HD.
Are these quirks of the HD, or is the FoxMovie channel making its old movies playable only once?

Some programs can have Copy-Once (CO) protection, which allows them to be recorded to the HDD but not copied to a DVD. Those will have a "no-copy" symbol of some sort (never seen one myself) on the title somewhere.

If your HDD becomes too full, many other strange things can happen, esp. if you've done lots of editing. How much HDD space remains on your drive at SP rec mode?

I think the TV has nothing to do with it. If you can see the menus and such from the philips your TV is set up OK. Indoor antennas are lousy unless you're close to the stations. If an outdoor antenna isn't an option for you, try a good amplified indoor unit and place it by a window.

I've had good results with a RCA job from Target. I think it was like 25 dollars.

Yes, it can be replaced. Some of us are already "drooling" for an external drive enclosure with swappable drives since they retain their formatting and files intact.

See the SKIP 079 code here for info and report from soemone who did it already (Dartman... he's currently testing it for any long-term effects, none so far). (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13686310&postcount=709)
Standby testing to start April 6 or 7 for ESATA drives

Are these quirks of the HD, or is the FoxMovie channel making its old movies playable only once?


I've never had a problem transferring Fox Movie Channel stuff to disc. The problem is in your HDD.

I have had this machine for less than a year but have recorded hundreds of movies & other programs onto the HD & copied a majority of them onto DVDs.
I have found that some movies I record to the HD & watch will not copy to a DVD. Sometimes just editing a movie before playing it renders it unplayable. Some will play again on the HD; others will just occupy space but show only a black screen. This happens most often with FoxMovie Channel but occasionally with TCM. One of Fox's movies I recorded from HD to DVD; now the copy on the HD is blank but still occupies its space. Another I watched on the HD, but it would not copy to a DVD. Yet it still plays on the HD.
Are these quirks of the HD, or is the FoxMovie channel making its old movies playable only once?
The disk could be badly fragmented or a busted link. I suggest copy off what you can, delete all recordings then reformat the drive and go from there. Don't forget to do the setup after the format.

Thanks for the advice, but I don't know how to use it. Computers have software for reformating their hard drives, but I don't know how I can reformat the HD in my DVDR.

Thanks for the advice, but I don't know how to use it. Computers have software for reformating their hard drives, but I don't know how I can reformat the HD in my DVDR.
Go to this link and follow the instructions. Easy no problem procedure.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12355769&postcount=39

You should use this thread for all your 3575 questions, it's all here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940657

I have 61 hours of SP space on my HD. I've had probably as little as 50 hours before cleaning house. I edit a lot: before & after a movie; deleting scenes consisting of commercial interruptions; & changing titles.

Thanks for the information about formatting. I hope that the Check HD will inform me whether or not re-formatting is appropriate.

We have DirecTV.

This is my third DVD recorder. First was a Sansui VCR\DVD recorder. Next came a Pioneer with 80 GB HD. It's DVD drive ceased recording in less than a year.

I began with Memorex DVD-Rs, until I found about a 10% rate of failure, usually in playing what I'd recorded onto them. Even the cheap Ilo are more reliable. Now, I use Sony & Maxell.

I have 61 hours of SP space on my HD. I've had probably as little as 50 hours before cleaning house. I edit a lot: before & after a movie; deleting scenes consisting of commercial interruptions; & changing titles.

Thanks for the information about formatting. I hope that the Check HD will inform me whether or not re-formatting is appropriate.

We have DirecTV.

This is my third DVD recorder. First was a Sansui VCR\DVD recorder. Next came a Pioneer with 80 GB HD. It's DVD drive ceased recording in less than a year.

I began with Memorex DVD-Rs, until I found about a 10% rate of failure, usually in playing what I'd recorded onto them. Even the cheap Ilo are more reliable. Now, I use Sony & Maxell.
I also have DirecTv HD, H20 driving the Philips 3575SATA500HT via SVideo/Audio input.

If anyone is looking for a 3575, there are a few refurbs on eBay right now for $249 plus shipping.

If anyone is looking for a 3575, there are a few refurbs on eBay right now for $249 plus shipping.
Better Yet
Hurry in stock

DVDR3576H/37x for Today's Price: $219.99 Overstock.com Refurbished Item
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Philips-160GB-Hard-Disk-and-DVD-Recorder/3519458/product.html?sec_iid=33965#prodDetails

Better Yet
Hurry in stock

DVDR3576H/37x for Today's Price: $219.99 Overstock.com Refurbished Item
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Philips-160GB-Hard-Disk-and-DVD-Recorder/3519458/product.html?sec_iid=33965#prodDetails



You said it!

Anyone looking for one of these BUY IT NOW.

I have had this machine for less than a year but have recorded hundreds of movies & other programs onto the HD & copied a majority of them onto DVDs.
I have found that some movies I record to the HD & watch will not copy to a DVD. Sometimes just editing a movie before playing it renders it unplayable. Some will play again on the HD; others will just occupy space but show only a black screen. This happens most often with FoxMovie Channel but occasionally with TCM. One of Fox's movies I recorded from HD to DVD; now the copy on the HD is blank but still occupies its space. Another I watched on the HD, but it would not copy to a DVD. Yet it still plays on the HD.
Are these quirks of the HD, or is the FoxMovie channel making its old movies playable only once?
I don't think it is a problem with the TV channels or your HDD. It is editing which caused problems sometimes, as mentioned by WAJO and others. I had a similar problem recently and I was able to save my recording. I had a recording with 5 min auto chapter marks, then I cut off (title divide) beginning of it within about 20 sec from the first chapter mark. The thumbnail went black and it wouldn't play and it would not copy to DVD. In actuality it would play but it would take a few minutes to get going. In order to speed up the process I went to INFO then to the top menu, scrolled to time and with the right arrow moved the time with up arrow pass the trouble chapter (edit would not let delete that mark) and hit OK or PLAY and it played normally. You may have to hit STOP and PLAY to get it going and make sure that sound comes on, and use slow FFW and/or REV to get to the point you need. Afterwards I hooked up my 3576 to my Liteon 5045 and recorded the program in real time. Then I deleted the problem recording from the Philips and everything else there is fine. Depending on the number and severity of edits in your case it may not work quite as well for you but that's how I got it fixed. Needless to say I turned off auto chapters in my 3576.

I had a similar problem recently and I was able to save my recording. I had a recording with 5 min auto chapter marks, then I cut off (title divide) beginning of it within about 20 sec from the first chapter mark. The thumbnail went black and it wouldn't play and it would not copy to DVD.
Two things people with 3575/3576's shouldn't do is set auto-chapter at 5-min. or use Divide to cut off the beginning or end of a title.

Best to set auto-chapter at 10 min. and use Scene Delete - Front-Cut and End-Cut as described here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298466&postcount=17). Divide should only be used AFTER all Scene Deletes have been made... Dividing BEFORE Deleting can cause title freezes, esp, with 5-min auto-chapters.

Is there some kind of trick to program QAM channels from a basic cable input in this thing?

I have never seen something so erratic...

Is there some kind of trick to program QAM channels from a basic cable input in this thing?

I have never seen something so erratic...
WHat model do you have and what is its mfg date?

How are you connected?

What cabelco do you have and where located?

Have you done an Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital)?

Prob. lots more questions since you provided no INFO at all.

My DVDR3575 still running GREAT! Also, my HDR-900 from Sony still kicks AS*.

Love them both, with the edge going to the 3575 for:

1. Digital recording
2. Editing. Two Steeler(and a NY Giants) Super Bowls down, with, hopefully, at least a ton more to go! :)

GREAT picture on digital 16:9. Has worked wonderfully.

Just thought I would say that. :)

This is with a Maggie 2160, but I would believe results should be the same with the Philips version.

Regarding the RF pass through and eariler comments on amplification of the output. Attached are screen shots of the recorders 'RF path' using a Spectrum Analyzer.

Please note;
Each division is 2db, not the customary 10db,
Bandpass is from 20 MHz to 900 Mhz,
Markets were placed at the lowest points,
The 'ripple' seems to be common. I have seen it with most active and passive devices (amps, splitters etc.),
Lastly, if you cycle through these screen shots, you will notice a fluctuation in the trace. I have no idsea what is causing this since I have never seen this behavior before with any device I tested. It's not the scope either,
There is a sharp cutoff at or just below channel 2.

Overall, there is increasing gain on higher frequencies.

This is with a Maggie 2160, but I would believe results should be the same with the Philips version.

Lastly, if you cycle through these screen shots, you will notice a fluctuation in the trace. I have no idsea what is causing this since I have never seen this behavior before with any device I tested. It's not the scope either....
Thanks for great info... I've already linked to it as another source of info on the amplified circuit.

I'm wondering if the "fluctuation" that you've never seen before could be from the nature of the tuner in the 2160 vs. the tuner in a std HDTV... the 2160's hybrid (switched analog/digital) tuner vs. the HDTV's integrated/combo tuner which is sequential and unswitched?

What would be "switching" continusely? Seems more of a oscillation or a pulsation to be. :confused:
Any way. I would not use the output. Also, I would recommend terminating that output.

It's not the flatness, or lack of, it's the pulsation of the trace. Open all threee images and click between the three of them (a slide show of sorts). I would guess the frequency of the pulsation is around 5 per second.

It's not the flatness, or lack of, it's the pulsation of the trace. Open all threee images and click between the three of them (a slide show of sorts). I would guess the frequency of the pulsation is around 5 per second.
In post #809 here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16300116#post16300116), Olyteddy says this about your RF traces:

"Actually the traces are pretty clean. The 2 or 3 dB tilt will help overcome the tilt of any cable attached. I've been a 'Sweep Tech' for years and wish all my traces were that flat."

Since there are quite a number more that visit this thread, I'll ask this here also:

Using a 2160, I have found 1080p and enhanced contrast gives me the best image (especially chroma response). Problem is, the lack of choices I have in the TV when viewing a 4x3 recording. There is no 'Narrow' mode available except when outputing at 480p. There is no way I can watch the proper 4x3 ratio unless I revert back to 480p out of the recorder. Watching a regular 16x9 DVD is no problem since it is at the proper aspect ratio in the first place.

Is there any work around for this?

MCM Electronics has DVDR3475's refubished for $90. Are those the ones with an analog tuner?

MCM Electronics has DVDR3475's refubished for $90. Are those the ones with an analog tuner?
Yes.

Yes.
They would work for me since I don't use the tuners anyway. Do they have HDMI out by chance?

They also don't have a hard drive in them, I almost bought one when looking for the first 3575's to show up here. They do look almost identical otherwise so I bet they have the same loader/burner in them so definitely a good parts doner.

They also don't have a hard drive in them, I almost bought one when looking for the first 3575's to show up here. They do look almost identical otherwise so I bet they have the same loader/burner in them so definitely a good parts doner.
Agree on the burner, maybe even the power supply and a few other bits.

Now if the board was the same other then the tuner maybe you could hack in a drive. I don't think I'd want anyone to buy one just to test out that theory though.

I love my 3575 and have had great luck with it so far (over a year), but am curious if others see what I see very once in awhile:

I record mostly off D*, and every so often the picture will "stutter" slightly on the video, like the picture is shaking or something- Very slight and not very noticeable unless you are looking closely.

This is not happening too often but I am curious if others have ever seen this!

I love my 3575 and have had great luck with it so far (over a year), but am curious if others see what I see very once in awhile:

I record mostly off D*, and every so often the picture will "stutter" slightly on the video, like the picture is shaking or something- Very slight and not very noticeable unless you are looking closely.

This is not happening too often but I am curious if others have ever seen this!
A lot of artifacts, macroblocks, etc. in digital, and even analog now, until the stations switch over to digital... I'm noticing macroblocks in my analog ABC channel 33 so it's either being produced in digital, sent in digital, or something cuz analog shouldn't have MB, so could be something like that.

I did notice in my early testing that the Still Mode selection in the Playback menu can cause certain titles and similar things to "jump" or maybe as you describe "stutter." Prob. not the same but good to check your Still Mode setting and make sure it's on Auto?

I should report that I did finally take the plunge to reformat my Philips 3576's HD about a week ago & have had no problems so far . . . . I was surprised at how fast the reformat went: it seemed less than a minute & the dashes appeared on the display. I waited for about 10 minutes but nothing more happened, so I turned the machine on & set it up.

I should report that I did finally take the plunge to reformat my Philips 3576's HD about a week ago & have had no problems so far . . . . I was surprised at how fast the reformat went: it seemed less than a minute & the dashes appeared on the display. I waited for about 10 minutes but nothing more happened, so I turned the machine on & set it up.
I may do it a couple of times a day since I'm testing different drives.
Good ole skip 0-7-9 won't bite you.

Wajo: Thanks for this advice- I'll check my settings!

I'll also have to check out the main thread on "Set Up and Operation" since I was not aware you could ever re-format the HDD on these.

Wajo: Thanks for this advice- I'll check my settings!

I'll also have to check out the main thread on "Set Up and Operation" since I was not aware you could ever re-format the HDD on these.
In the subject list on pg 1 of the Sticky, check out Subject 7a for HDD upgrade/initialization with SKIP 079. (Click #1 in my sig. for pg 1.)

..., I set my timer to Channel 34, SP, 5:05pm - 11:00pm, record to HDD.

I come back home ..., the DVR is set to Channel 51. I press stop then go to the Setup menu.

The HDD titles show my recording there. I start watching it; after about 4 seconds ..., the channel *flicks* over to Channel 51 and records something else for the next 4 hours.

Has anyone else had this problem? The timer says it's [set for] one channel, but after 4 seconds [it changes channels without any human prompting].

I'm having this same problem. Has anyone found a solution?
(I guess it doesn't bode well that I only found one mention of the issue in this forum.)

I'm having this same problem. Has anyone found a solution?
(I guess it doesn't bode well that I only found one mention of the issue in this forum.)
What channel/network does your unit switch from and to?

Also, how are you connected... what cables from and to what devices. See the sketches in this help file for some typical connection schemes. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298409&postcount=10)

I'm thinking the only thing that might change channels automatically is the Auto Clock, when it searches for a time signal. Supposed to do that only at noon and midnight, and only when the unit is off, but who knows...?

You might want to try setting your clock manually (Auto Clock OFF), or at least on Manual Auto Clock as described in "The 11:57 Procedure" here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298425&postcount=11) This forces the 3575 to go to only one specific channel that you've been able to CONFIRM has a good time signal. The procedure also lets you know if there aren't any good time signals in your area/system, which could be another source of weird problems... the unit searching for a time signal and encountering a test channel (with running oscilloscope trace) or some other "rogue" signal, which can cause problems (including changing your date to 2037 or some other fun time!). That "test" channel is the one in my system that can freeze an Auto Channel Preset in my 3575 (2160 breezes right thru it).

Hello.

I've had this particular issue with the 3575H more than once. After deleting a title, the title next in line becomes corrupt and virtually unreadable. However, sometimes when I attempt to load the corrupt title, after waiting five minutes or so, it may eventually load, but often without sound. Has anyone else ever encountered this problem?

Are the adjacent titles ones created by Dividing, followed by Scene Deletes?

Do you do a fair amount of editing?

How full is your HDD?

. . . So I had to open the unit to get it out.

The sticker is CHEAP, and it did not break when I pulled the cover off. here's what I discovered - they used a Seagate IDE HDD which is GOOD because I've had great luck with these drives. Exact model # is ST3160215ACE. The DVD housing pieces had multiple numbers on them, probably corresponding to the individual pieces. Here are some if anyone wants to look into them:

N78F0DUM
N78P3DUN
L4379011904

Sorry no pics, did not expect to have to pull the cover, LOL. Assembly looked nice and tidy . . .

The above text refers to a 3575 in a December 2007 post in this thread.

In March I replaced the hard drive in my 2080. I took photos, including the one attched below. That photo shows the same model number for the DVD Drive, N78F0DUM, as reported by that poster.

I would hope that when opening any Funai DVD Recorder of recent production, say 2007 or newer, that board members would report the machine's model number, month/year of production and the model number (or other numbers) found on the DVD Drive. Perhaps this will provide information that may allow swapping of DVD Drives among/between different models as necessary.

While there are certain enhanced DVD Drive functionalities found on higher-line products than those found on lower-line products, perhaps those functionalities are provided/controlled through the CBA rather than being native to the DVD Drive itself. If that is the case there is a possibility that the same model DVD Drive(s) may be found in several Funai-manufactured DVD Recorders.

Let's pool our resources to address these matters.

My bet is the guts their dvd loader/burner is made of are a BenQ/philips and probably could do up to 16x and DL if the firmware or whatever they use to control it allowed.
The burns from mine that I've tested usually are of very good quality similar to what you get with the BenQ 1620 through 1655 series drives, and it USUALLY doesn't seem to care about quality of the media, it just chugs along and does a good burn.
If they used normal IDE type power and data connectors we'd probably be home free right now, BUT NOOO!!!!!

Let's pool our resources to address these matters.
Same numbers for my 3575 Jan 2008

Same numbers for my 3575 Jan 2008

Today I opened a digital-tuner Sylvania ZV450SL8 of April 2007 manufacture. The first photo shows that model with the top removed. The only number I could find on the DVD Drive was a sticker with L4674007138, as seen in the second photo. I lifted the CBA to see if there were other numbers but none were found.

The surprize is that the CBA's main chip is from PANASONIC!

Got a glitch in my 3576, I did a new auto channel search including DTV and now when I use channel up/down in DTV mode instead of going to the next digital channel it cycles between USB, E1-rear, E2-front, E3-dv-n.

Only way of getting out of this is pressing source which brings it back to analog.

Looked in the manual but could not find anything.
Did a reset, did not help.
What did I do?

Sounds like it might have forgotten all the digital channels it found. One of my units does that all the time but it's a early 3575.
Wajo has one that he can get the channels back by rapidly pushing the DTV/TV button.
If your lucky it just got confused and maybe a rescan will take and hold the channels for you.
It is a known issue with these units if you go through the thread, but the newer ones seem to be OK after a certain build date.

Sounds like it might have forgotten all the digital channels it found. One of my units does that all the time but it's a early 3575.
Wajo has one that he can get the channels back by rapidly pushing the DTV/TV button.
If your lucky it just got confused and maybe a rescan will take and hold the channels for you.
It is a known issue with these units if you go through the thread, but the newer ones seem to be OK after a certain build date.

The April 2007 Sylvania ZV450SL8 that just came into my hands held onto the clear QAM digital sub-channels in the 2-118 range for about two days and then seemed to lose them. Yesterday morning two scheduled overnight recordings on channel 2.2 were found to have a blank picture. Since our local Comcast service has been making some changes I though that might be the problem but there has been no interruption or loss of the clear QAM sub-channels with the July 2007 Magnavox 2080 in the next room. That 2080 continues pulling in the clear QAM digital sub-channels in the 2-118 range.

After discovering the blank recordings I re-ran the Sylvania's Extended (digital) Cable Channel Scan twice. Following the channel scans I attempted direct channel entry or channel up/down for several sub-channels in the 2-49 range but found nothing.

At the time I thought these re-scans didn't find the clear QAM sub-channels.

This morning I tried direct channel entry; finding the clear QAM digital sub-channels in the 73-118 range. Direct entry still doesn't find the clear QAM digital sub-channels below 73.

Perhaps the tuner in the Sylvania ZV450SL8 is somewhat less compatible with the Comcast clear QAM signal than the tuner in the Magnavox 2080.

Might this just be an anomaly with some models, or is there some other explanation?

sounds like it may have the same issues as the 3575 machines do, probably the same tuner.
You might also want to make sure the splitter and cable to it are quad shielded high quality stuff because just not tuning a channel that's there in the first sub has never happened to me on direct entry unless the signals really bad.
I sure wish it allowed us to program in and delete the subs on a main channel we don't want, my LG tuner allows it. I also think ever so often Comcast will be screwing around with certain bands of channels because I've had like 8 and 10 suddenly be unwatchable and pixelated then be fine a hour or days later and I haven't changed anything.

i have the panasonic ez 48vk and it freezes up ,,, i also have a phillips CD recorder for like 8 years durable never breaks good product,, so maybe there dvdr is up to par

DigaDo, this direct channel entry; finding the clear QAM digital sub-channels happens to mine as well but I found to fix this is if you simply switch over to analog and get a clear signal then go back to digital it seems to pull it in.

DigaDo, this direct channel entry; finding the clear QAM digital sub-channels happens to mine as well but I found to fix this is if you simply switch over to analog and get a clear signal then go back to digital it seems to pull it in.
You might not even have to wait for a pic on analog... hold button down till it switches to analog and back to digital... should have digital channels back again in about a NY second. :)

You might not even have to wait for a pic on analog... hold button down till it switches to analog and back to digital... should have digital channels back again in about a NY second. :)
Thanks wajo,
Dartman, I scanned about 6 times and it finally held, I thought I found a secret.
After scanning I watched channel 2 for awhile then switched over to digital and it showed 2.1 and allowed channel up and down, before it showed 1.1
Did it a second time and held again now I think it is just fussy about Comcast.

Well if it now continues to stay put as far as channels till they move stuff around your good to go. Sometimes it takes a hour or a day to loose em if it's one that will so wait and see then count your blessings if it holds.
My second one of much later build never looses them but it took a couple tries to get a stable one for me.

It's going to hold the channels as I lost them because I did a re-scan in the first place.

So what's up with the rumor that Phillips or (Funi) was going to make the unit one more year.
We are past the spring or April mark and nothing, I guess that's it?

Those DTV boxes they are selling in the stores will not pick up digital channels on the cable system will they?
Are there any stores that sell one that will?

Phiillips 3576 Mfg Date 02/2008 Second unit bought 02/2009 Mfg Date 02/2008

It's going to hold the channels as I lost them because I did a re-scan in the first place.

So what's up with the rumor that Phillips or (Funi) was going to make the unit one more year.
We are past the spring or April mark and nothing, I guess that's it?

Those DTV boxes they are selling in the stores will not pick up digital channels on the cable system will they?
Are there any stores that sell one that will?

Phiillips 3576 Mfg Date 02/2008 Second unit bought 02/2009 Mfg Date 02/2008
The clone version, Magnavox 2160A, is this year's model, available at Walmart.com. (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10104532) It can operate side-by-side with the 3575/3576 cuz their remotes don't clash.

See this help file for the major differencee. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14564338&postcount=1570)

As far as I know they are ONLY designed to do NTSC and ATSC OTA digital signals for the people that can't afford/don't want cable and don't have a new enough TV to have the tuner built in.
My Toshiba 34HFX84 34" CRT set does not have a digital tuner at all because back when it was out that was a added cost that most didn't want to pay for.
I ended up with a LG 4200a tuner that does it all and use it when I want HDTV. I also have a Dvico Fusion 3 HDTV PC tuner that does it all as well and will capture in the clear HD as well at native resolutions with the digital sound.
Depending on what Comcast here and many other cable co's all of this may be useless tuner wise about June if they scramble everything but the locals.
None of the cheap tuners do actual HD that I'm aware of either so people that can still get a bunch of clear QAM channels might as well poney up more money and buy one of these while they can.

sounds like it may have the same issues as the 3575 machines do, probably the same tuner.

Of my Philips, Magnavox and Sylvania digital tuner machines I've only opened the Magnavox 2080 and the Sylvania ZV450. The digital/analog tuners in these machines have the parts number, other coding and lot number printed on one side; with date coding and another number on a sticker affixed to the other side.

The tuner in a July 2007 Magnavox H2080MW8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUDe

200707059A (date code?)
E2H0000230

The tuner in an April 2007 Sylvania ZV450SL8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUCN

2007040606TU (date code?)
E9H000606

Addendum: I am adding a brighter, clearer ZV450 tuner photo to this post.

...Those DTV boxes they are selling in the stores will not pick up digital channels on the cable system will they?
Are there any stores that sell one that will?


If by "Those DTV boxes they are selling in the stores", you mean a CECB (Coupon Eligible Converter Box), there are Government imposed restrictions on the features of those units. They can only contain a digital tuner for OTA(Over The Air). Those rules also limit the types of outputs the CECBs can provide. The best they can offer is S-Video. They are intended to allow people to use old TVs after the DTV conversion. The DTV conversion did not have to effect cable and satellite customers. The satellite and cable systems could have completely insulated their customers from the conversion, if they had wanted to. I suspect they are taking advantage of the DTV conversion to make changes to their systems which are intended to increase revenues, and that many consumers will assume are a result of the DTV conversion.

I am OTA only, but if I was a cable customer, I would be reluctant to spend any money for a converter box that I could only hope would work with the cable system. It seems like the cable companies have a lot flexibility to make changes that will frustrate any advanced capabilities in boxes they have not provided.

Well Comcast here will give you one basic non HD box that can do PPV and on demand free stuff plus 2 of the tuner only converters. According to the letter we got that's no extra monthly charge as far as I could see. I'm sure they're hoping at the least you'll order some movies, and hopefully you'll decide to get a HD/DVR box and start rental fees on the box and even more money for the HD channels package a month.

Of my Philips, Magnavox and Sylvania digital tuner machines I've only opened the Magnavox 2080 and the Sylvania ZV450. The digital/analog tuners in these machines have the parts number, other coding and lot number printed on one side; with date coding and another number on a sticker affixed to the other side.

The tuner in a July 2007 Magnavox H2080MW8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUDe

200707059A (date code?)
E2H0000230

The tuner in an April 2007 Sylvania ZV450SL8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUCN

2007040606TU (date code?)
E9H000606
Yup, same part numbers, just different lots so same problems I'd guess. Too bad they'll never let us do HD recording with our own gear. Hoping they don't scramble everything over 30 but I'm sure the greedy SOB's are considering it to make themselves even more money.

Of my Philips, Magnavox and Sylvania digital tuner machines I've only opened the Magnavox 2080 and the Sylvania ZV450. The digital/analog tuners in these machines have the parts number, other coding and lot number printed on one side; with date coding and another number on a sticker affixed to the other side.

The tuner in a July 2007 Magnavox H2080MW8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUDe

200707059A (date code?)
E2H0000230

The tuner in an April 2007 Sylvania ZV450SL8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUCN

2007040606TU (date code?)
E9H000606


I just cracked open one of my 3575's to upgrade the HDD and found the following info.

This is a refurb unit manufactured 4/07 and refurbed 11/07.

Tuner

UTUNNTUSP033
U1003AF
LOT FUDe

200704179A
E2H4000320


Burner

N78FODUM


Note there are some different numbers on the tuner.

I just cracked open one of my 3575's to upgrade the HDD and found the following info.

This is a refurb unit manufactured 4/07 and refurbed 11/07.

Tuner

UTUNNTUSP033
U1003AF
LOT FUDe

200704179A
E2H4000320


Burner

N78FODUM


Note there are some different numbers on the tuner.

My 5/2/09 post (#4658) described operational or performance problems with my April 2007 Sylvania ZV450 combo recorder (recently purchased used) that has the same UTUNNTUSP033/UI003AF tuner found in my July 2007 Magnavox 2080. While these tuners have the same part number they are from different lots.

Ti-triodes reports that the same UTUNNTUSP033/UI003AF tuner is used in an April 2007 3575. That tuner's LOT FUDe is the same lot as that found in my July 2007 2080.

Perhaps the same UTUNNTUSP033/UI003AF tuner is used in the 3576 and the 2160 as well.

My Philips 3575 and Magnavox 2080 and 2160 models operate and perform very well.

My Sylvania ZV450SL8 does not tune digital sub-channels below the channel 73 range and can only access digital sub-channels in the channel 73-118 range through direct channel entry. The remote’s channel up/down buttons select only between L1 and L2 when DTV is selected. Analog channels may be tuned with channel up/down or through direct channel entry when TV is selected. Wajo, dww and Dartman gave advice ranging from upgrading the coax cable, switching back to analog and then back to digital or holding the remote’s DTV/TV button. These remedial measures have not corrected the problems. Yesterday I moved the ZV450 to a different room where a six foot length of shielded RG6 coax was connected directly from the 2080 RF output (for an amplified pass through signal) to the ZV450. A re-scan of the channels resulted in no functional improvement.

The Magnavox 2080 continues to tune all the digital sub-channels with channel up/down or through direct entry.

Are the Sylvania ZV450 problems a sample defect or are these problems inherent to the ZV450 model? I don’t know.

While operational or performance differences might be attributed to sample variations/defects, another explanation may be found in hardware/software differences resident to these models’ “MAIN PCB.” Photos of the Main PCB of my 2080 and ZV450 are attached.

Update 1: As of 5/22/2009 the Sylvania ZV450 only intermittantly directly-tuned clear QAM channels in the channel 73 and higher range, even after running a new (enhanced, i.e., "analog and digital") channel scan. The splitters were recently upgraded from 5 MHz-1 GHz models (Regal GS2DGH and Ideal 85-134) to 5MHz-2.3GHz models (GE/Jasco AV22694 and 87625). The 2080, also set up cable-ready, continues to tune the clear QAM channels as normal. On 5/23/2009 the ZV450 was set up for OTA (ATSC) reception where it appears to function normally.

Update 2: In recent weeks the Philips 3576 has developed the same weak clear QAM performance deficiencies as the Sylvania ZV450SL8 (subsequently given to a daughter who reports that the Sylvania is satisfactory for her use). A few days ago the 3576 was reconfigured for OTA use where it performs satisfactorily.

Here is an update for those who suggested that my problems viewing or copying movies from the hard drive might be solved by re-formatting.
Before re-formatting the hard drive, I was unable, after viewing a movie I'd recorded onto the hard drive from FoxMovie channel, to copy it to a DVD. After re-formatting, I recorded the same movie when FoxMovie showed it again, & I was able to copy it from the HD to a DVD.

I have a Philips DVDR3576H/37 Manufactured in Feb 2008 for sale. I have box, manuals. Also purchased a 3 yr extended warranty. Accepting reasonable offers.

Here is an update for those who suggested that my problems viewing or copying movies from the hard drive might be solved by re-formatting.
Before re-formatting the hard drive, I was unable, after viewing a movie I'd recorded onto the hard drive from FoxMovie channel, to copy it to a DVD. After re-formatting, I recorded the same movie when FoxMovie showed it again, & I was able to copy it from the HD to a DVD.
Do you loose any saved information such as previous recorded shows?


I have a Philips DVDR3576H/37 Manufactured in Feb 2008 for sale. I have box, manuals. Also purchased a 3 yr extended warranty. Accepting reasonable offers.
Why don't you want it anymore?

Do you loose any saved information such as previous recorded shows?(...)
When you format a HDD you lose everything that was on it.

Hey folks,

Not sure if this is specific to this model, or a more generic issue.

It appears that I can not record some channels from my digital cable box any longer. I suspect that this is a signal being sent from the provider (Rogers).

Is it possible that it's an issue with the box? It's only certain channels. Teletoon (Ch 45) is one of them.

Any tips?

Secondly - have there been any f/w updates on this box in the last 12 months?

6/18/2007 was the first and only update for the 3575 so far, nothing that I'm aware of for the newer units:(

Hey folks,

Not sure if this is specific to this model, or a more generic issue.

It appears that I can not record some channels from my digital cable box any longer. I suspect that this is a signal being sent from the provider (Rogers).

Is it possible that it's an issue with the box? It's only certain channels. Teletoon (Ch 45) is one of them.


It's not uncommon to get a false copy protection message with this unit. I saw something in another thread here just the other day about how having your cable box/SAT receiver or CRT TV too close to the Philips unit could cause a false CP. I believe it was in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940657&page=174

Check the last few pages, I believe you'll find it.

If this IS a problem involving the cable box (and it's not the same old false "you can't make a DVD from this recording" signal so many have had), it's very possible a video filter could solve the problem.

I'll see about getting links to where you can buy them.

Try these for filters-

http://www.xdimax.com/grex/grex.html

http://www.world-import.com/dp-x7000.htm

http://home.roadrunner.com/~filter/

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130308078229&ru=http%3A%2F%2Felectronics.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3D R40%26_trksid%3Dp3907.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D130308078229%26_sac at%3D293%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

If this IS a problem involving the cable box (and it's not the same old false "you can't make a DVD from this recording" signal so many have had), it's very possible a video filter could solve the problem.

I'll see about getting links to where you can buy them.

I don't know about "the so many have had" part of your statement. I don't think there have been 10 people that have reported this problem with the Philips 75 or 76 in the Philips HDD forums for programs recorded using the built in tuner. Attempts to duplicate prerecorded programs using the line inputs are a completely separate issue, at least in my mind. I have NEVER seen the problem with my 75 or my 76. I believe that most of the reports started when the 0x93 tuner appeared in the 76 and my units have older tuners. I suspect that the 0x93 tuner is reacting to a real flag that previous tuner versions and other manufacturer's tuners ignored.

I don't know about "the so many have had" part of your statement. I don't think there have been 10 people that have reported this problem with the Philips 75 or 76 in the Philips HDD forums for programs recorded using the built in tuner. Attempts to duplicate prerecorded programs using the line inputs are a completely separate issue, at least in my mind. I have NEVER seen the problem with my 75 or my 76. I believe that most of the reports started when the 0x93 tuner appeared in the 76 and my units have older tuners. I suspect that the 0x93 tuner is reacting to a real flag that previous tuner versions and other manufacturer's tuners ignored.

If memory serves, for a forum this size, there were far too many cases of the machine getting those anti-dub flags, whether legit or not. My other 76, only about a month older I think, has NEVER gotten one.

When I tried using an external tuner with my flag-prone 76 it didn't get the flags. When I used the built-in tuner, also using an antenna, it frequently did. While it sometimes did NOT get a flag on its own tuner, it NEVER got one using the external one.

Once or twice I even tried stopping the recording half way thru and switching to the other source before going on and recording more. Whether the 76's own tuner did the first half or the second, it came out flagged, whereas the recordings from the external source never did.

Still, I'm just being cautious. Who knows what the real story was, since we never got a straight answer from Philips, that I'm aware of.

As for the later 76's being "more sensitive" or more "attentive" to the flags, to the best of my knowledge the Maggie 2160s, newer still, have NEVER been reported to get such flags. (Of course, they don't finalize their own discs unless you delete every timer-recording event you have set up; you then have to put those back in again after finalizing a DVD. :rolleyes:)

If memory serves, for a forum this size, there were far too many cases of the machine getting those anti-dub flags, whether legit or not. My other 76, only about a month older I think, has NEVER gotten one.

When I tried using an external tuner with my flag-prone 76 it didn't get the flags. When I used the built-in tuner, also using an antenna, it frequently did. While it sometimes did NOT get a flag on its own tuner, it NEVER got one using the external one.

Once or twice I even tried stopping the recording half way thru and switching to the other source before going on and recording more. Whether the 76's own tuner did the first half or the second, it came out flagged, whereas the recordings from the external source never did.

Still, I'm just being cautious. Who knows what the real story was, since we never got a straight answer from Philips, that I'm aware of.

As for the later 76's being "more sensitive" or more "attentive" to the flags, to the best of my knowledge the Maggie 2160s, newer still, have NEVER been reported to get such flags. (Of course, they don't finalize their own discs unless you delete every timer-recording event you have set up; you then have to put those back in again after finalizing a DVD. :rolleyes:)

I don't remember what forum I read it in, but I seem to recall a discusion of other units that were detecting OTA copy protection flags. There seemed to be speculation that there was a time window issue when tuners honored the flags. Old units would have assumed that it was unneceassary under the "fair use" doctrines that has exempted VCRs for personal use. Then there was a time window when the copyright owners seemed to have been able to make a case that digital recorders had to honor the flags, even OTA. Then the claim was that they lost the arguement. I don't recall that anyone could point to final court decisions. If true, it would explain why the oldest and newest digital tuners would ignore the anti-copy flag, while some in between would honor it. The manufactures would not want to honor copy protection, if they did not have to, since it would make their products more valuable.

Hi! I got my 3576H about a year ago, and I'm quite happy. I used mostly the analog tuner until the start of June. It's working pretty well still, but I have just a few questions for you guys

1 If I don't want to watch channel 2.3 and want to remove it from the list of scanned channels, does that remove 2.1 and 2.2 too? It seems so for me and I don't like that. :)

2 Has there been a new version of the firmware in the last 12 months or so? There was one more than 12 months ago, but it predated the version on my machine. It works well but I still see so many areas for improvement, I really hope there is new firmware. i''ve tried to read all the posts for the last year, but I haven't found this topic. Maybe I missed it.

3 FYI When recording, I would lose, every day, about 5 seconds 10 or 20 seconds at the start of the recording, so for the show I record where the first 30 seconds matter, I start the recording 1 minute early. I don't care if there 5 seconds missing before my program starts. This one is not a question. :) I just wanted to point out the issue.

4 When recording an OTA show with a lot of talking, I notice that I miss a word every day or two. Every 5 or 6 days it's a word that matters and I replay my recording (to the harddrive) but I still can't get the word. I was using SLP mode, so I swttched to the next slower mode. It didn't really seem to help. Do you think the next slower or the slowest would avoid that problem, or is it the OTA?

5 I went to the Philips website to look for new firmware and it didn't even have the 3576 model. It stopped with an earlier model. Is there some other company or website that now supports the 3576

6 These Copy Protectin flags you keep talking about. I record OTA. Are the flags visible to me too?. I haven't noticed anything. I record to the hard drive exclusively, although I expect I will want to copy something to a DVD eventually.

7. FYI I wanted to remind everyone with an analog tv that you can take the co-ax output from the DVDR and send it to an RF modulator (which costs about 20 dollars) and that will convert it to channel 3 (or 4, your choice?) and then you can route more cable to your tvs.

You don't have to use AV jacks on your tv, especially on my tvs which don't have them. The RF modulator came probably from Amazon and it turns on automatically when the DVDR goes on, then turns off 20 seconds after it turns off. It has 4 buttons to choose outputs, but I just use one output, then I split the signal to go to 8 tvs in different rooms (including one bathroom and the unfinished attic.) It's actually much simpler now than it was, because I can only change the channel in one place. Used to be I had to remember if a tv was on channel 3 or not, which tv got better reception for which channel.

Thanks. Mike

Of my Philips, Magnavox and Sylvania digital tuner machines I've only opened the Magnavox 2080 and the Sylvania ZV450. The digital/analog tuners in these machines have the parts number, other coding and lot number printed on one side . . .

The tuner in a July 2007 Magnavox H2080MW8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUDe

The tuner in an April 2007 Sylvania ZV450SL8 has these numbers:

UTUNNTUSP033 (part number)
U1003AF
LOT FUCN

The new addition to our household is a Magnavox ZV450MW8A of August 2008 manufacture.

Photo one shows this tuner information:

UTUNNTUSP034
U1023AF
LOT FVHI A

Photo two shows this DVD Drive information:

N78FODUM
1VM222812 G (2)

This Magnavox ZV450MW8A was initially connected to an antenna. An ATSC channel scan was run. Reception of local ATSC channels was normal.

Later this Magnavox was connected to the Comcast coax feed. A cable analog/digital channel scan was run. A Zenith DTT901 CECB was connected to a line input for reception of local ATSC broadcast channels not carried by Comcast. Test recordings were made. Scheduled recordings were programmed. So far this Magnavox is maintaining its hold on the clear QAM channels.

Photo three shows the DTV CBA module (in the background behind the VHS drum).

Hi! I got my 3576H about a year ago, and I'm quite happy. I used mostly the analog tuner until the start of June. It's working pretty well still, but I have just a few questions for you guys


2 Has there been a new version of the firmware in the last 12 months or so? There was one more than 12 months ago, but it predated the version on my machine. It works well but I still see so many areas for improvement, I really hope there is new firmware. i''ve tried to read all the posts for the last year, but I haven't found this topic. Maybe I missed it.


5 I went to the Philips website to look for new firmware and it didn't even have the 3576 model. It stopped with an earlier model. Is there some other company or website that now supports the 3576

Thanks. Mike

No firmware for user download & installation has been released for the 3576. A download for the 3575 is on the Philips support site but nothing for the 3576.

3576 support:
http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?ctn=DVDR3576H/37&scy=US&slg=en

I just bought a 3576 open box and want to hook it up as a second off air tuner and hook up with my Dish 622. I don't have an owner's manual, but will search for one shortly. I would like to record one off air program while watching another off the air channel.

I also want to transfer video (SD) from my 622 to burn dvd's. Finally, is it possible to use the 3576 unit's hard drive as a backup hard drive for the 622? If so, how do I do that. Thanks.

I just bought a 3576 open box and want to hook it up as a second off air tuner and hook up with my Dish 622. I don't have an owner's manual, but will search for one shortly. I would like to record one off air program while watching another off the air channel.

I also want to transfer video (SD) from my 622 to burn dvd's. Finally, is it possible to use the 3576 unit's hard drive as a backup hard drive for the 622? If so, how do I do that. Thanks.
You can connect as shown in Sketch 4 here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298409&postcount=10#Con5), including the "Optional" connections shown by dotted lines, which show how to add antenna or cable to a satellite system.

Read the text in that help file also to get an idea of how things should work when connected properly.

The 3576 can't be a "backup" HDD for the 622 in the normal sense of a backup cuz the 3576 needs the 622 to decrypt the signal sent via the satellite... no consumer DVDR's tuner can "read" a satellite signal and record it as video and audio streams, like OTA antenna or cable signals.

Thanks, I just found the operation thread for the 3576. I thought it might work as a backup HD unit for the Dish because the Dish 622 accepts external hard drives for extra storage.

"Thanks, I just found the operation thread for the 3576.."

There is an operation thread for the 3576??? I've only found this thread for the 3575, which I figure includes both of them.

Click #1 in my signature... covers 3575/3576 and 2160 (2080 also to some extent).

Hi:

It looks like WNED has added a subchannel with WNED-FM 94.5. I discovered this while surfing on my Magnavox H2080MW8 DVR. When I landed on 17.3 it was the program WorldFocus but the soundtrack was classical music. After awhile of listening the music ended and the announcer came on and said you are listening to WNED-FM 94.5. I then checked on my Artec T3APRO converter box. There was no music detected and the soundtrack was correct for the program, ie audio of a news program. I tried cycling the audio button on the Artec from english1 to english2 but no change there. I also went back to the Magnavox and changed the audio from stereo to sap to see if I could get it to give the correct audio. No go, it was still the 94.5 FM audio. I then tried finding it on my Artec by inputting subchannels from 43.1 to 43.12 but couldn't find it. So I guess that it is meant to be hidden from us. Now, I understand that the Rochester PBS has been doing this for a while now. When i've received them from tropo a little while ago I don't recall this type of problem on their 21.3 subchannel. So, I don't think that it is my equipment as such(I hope!). I'm betting that they have implemented something incorrectly and will fix it soon (I hope!). In the meantime I wonder if there is anybody from the Buffalo/Toronto areas who have a Philips 3575/76 or Magnavox 2160/2080 and can check that channel to see if they are getting the same or any old tuner for that matter. That's WNED 17.3 Thinkbright.

Thanks

Edit:

Hi Again:

I don't know what to say, but it seems to have been corrected. I just checked and the soundtracks between the Artec and Mag are now in sync. The program was called Onstage. I had noticed this problem initially last night. I guess I will keep monitoring and I apologize for any inconvenience.

Edit2:

1)The WNED-FM feed is now back on 17.3.

2)A member on another website, using a Philips 3505 has also been experiencing the same issues. That member has reported that this has been happening on and off for the last week. So, it looks like it may be a Philips/Magnavox specific bug of some type. Therefore i'm wondering if this will also affect later Mag/Philips units.

3)I've posted this post to a number of threads here on AVSForum that cover the Philips and Magnavox units. In order to facilitate a single easy to follow discussion it would be easier if you could please post your replies to the " Buffalo, NY - HDTV" thread over
here, as suggested by another member.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=137214

Edit 3:

Problem solved- solution: use the audio button to cycle through the available audio streams for each channel.

I didn't realize that the audio button works with the digital side only and going through the menu system, which allows you to select between stereo/sap, only applies to the analog side. When I tried going through the menu system, I guess I assumed that whatever was there applied for both sides. In fact it does allow you to choose stereo/sap, even though you're tuned to a digital channel. So I guess that that kind of made me assume that those were the only choices. From there I jumped to the conclusion that it must be due to a bug or improper implementation on WNED's part.

Of course, if you haven't already guessed, I haven't read the manual. I guess I ought to crack it open and get acquainted with it so that I don't jump the gun in the future.

I just want to apologize for jumping the gun and wasting bandwidth.

Crazy question:
I have an APEX digital converter box with a "Smart Antenna" connection that I would like to try it out.

Is it possible to feed the APEX box with a Smart antenna input and use the TV out (analog pass through) out of it (APEX Converter) to feed the Phillips antenna input?

Am I on to anything that will work?

I have a Philips DVDR3576H/37 Manufactured in Feb 2008 for sale. I have box, manuals. Also purchased a 3 yr extended warranty. Accepting reasonable offers.

Hope you get a decent offer!

I hate the refurbed DVDR3575H/37 I picked up from Overstock.com. Its QAM tuner is flakey and its remote off-axis reception is limited.
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Philips-DVDR3575H-1080p-160GB-HDD-DVD-Recorder-Refurbished/3990983/product.html?AID=10668447&PID=3136390

I want to keep the bound manual for convenient reference but a replacement can be downloaded here:
http://www.p4c.philips.com/files/d/dvdr3575h_37e/dvdr3575h_37e_dfu_aen.pdf

If anyone has a use for this 3575H POS you can have the recorder (which looks 'like new'); the remote (which looks 'excellent'); the original supplied batteries still sealed in plastic wrap; the Quick Start Guide (in English, Spanish, and French); no cables or manual; all in the original Philips refurb box for $65. ($50 + $15 shipping) Send me a PM.

I hate the refurbed DVDR3575H/37 I picked up from Overstock.com. Its QAM tuner is flakey and its remote off-axis reception is limited.

http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Philips-DVDR3575H-1080p-160GB-HDD-DVD-Recorder-Refurbished/3990983/product.html?AID=10668447&PID=3136390

In April I purchased a refurbished Philips 3576 (of February 2008 manufacture) from overstock.com for $219.99. When this 3576 became useless as a clear QAM tuner I set it up for ATSC (OTA) reception where it is satisfactory for recording local broadcast sub-channels not carried by Comcast or where there are scheduled recording conflicts among local "must carry" broadcast stations.

anyone still trying to sell their DVDR3575H/37? I'd like to get one if they are still available.

Thanks.

Does anyone have problems with the picture being really dark on the Philips DVDR 3537? Mine is just over a year old and not under warranty anymore.

Not sure which DVDR you're asking about cuz there is a 3505/3537, but here's some info on the 3575/37.

Here's the "Bottom Line" note in the help file for dark pic problem (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12309999&postcount=24#P3):

"BOTTOM LINE: If you get a dark pic thru HDMI on a 720p or 1080p HDTV, try both HDMI settings for Format (YCbCr and RGB) and RGB Range, as described here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298425&postcount=11#Set9) If HDMI settings don't help, Component and S-Video output are one option for a brighter pic, as is returning the unit.

If you get a dark pic with a 720p (768p) HDTV (check specs), don't send 720p over HDMI. Instead, try your HDMI at 480p. If you can also find a specific setting like Panasonic have under Menu > Picture > Advanced Picture > HD Size > ["Size 1" or "Size 2"], try both. Size 2 is exact pixel mapping and that's prob. your best bet to get a lighter and better pic?"

I have the same trouble. I've fooled with all the settings and thought I had it fixed, but it's still dark. Do they even sell these anymore?

I would like to attain the highest quality possible when importing video from an external device to the Philips DVDR3575H/37. I would like to use the external devices component video outputs:

1) Does such a thing as a component to DV (4 pin) cable exist?

2) How about a component to coax?

I'm assuming no, as I've looked online and came up empty. I may be trying to way over-simplify this, but what I was hoping to do, without modulators, scalers, converters, etc; was to achieve the highest possible digital video signal when importing to the Philips.

As far as I understand the situation (Please correct me, if I'm wrong.), there are two ways to import a digital video into the Philips DVDR3575H/37: the DV input connection on the front and the coax connection on the back.

The s-video and composite inputs will provide for analog only, and so the quality will be inferior. I was hoping to be able to record an external source using component video cables and keep the video entirely in the digital format.

I have an old Pyro A/V Link video converter box, but it only appears to output video in analog, or at least that's all the Philips seems capable of handling. If anyone has tried anything similar (i.e., routing an external device through a HD camcorder into the DV input), or has any tips on how to get the highest quality, digital video imports, I'd appreciate hearing about them.

@ nathanbrand, you might want to take a look at this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=599173 . SD recording is as good as it gets.

I'm aware that the Philips DVDR3575H/37 can only record in SD not HD ("all HD video will be down-converted"), but what I want to do is import video in SD 480i digital, not analog, to try and improve the signal quality.

Thanks for sending along the link to that discussion thread though. It was interesting to see that the Philips/Magnavox recorders used to come with component inputs not too long ago.

I've also been looking around a bit, and apparently there is no such thing as a component to coax, or component to DV cable. It appears the only way to accomplish this is through converters that can cost hundreds of dollars. :confused:

High Definition recording to devices that do not record to removable media (DVDs) is addressed in this sub-forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=42

I'm aware that the Philips DVDR3575H/37 can only record in SD not HD ("all HD video will be down-converted"), but what I want to do is import video in SD 480i digital, not analog, to try and improve the signal quality.In order to to that you would have to have digital output on the transmitting device as well as digital input on the recorder. The common digital transports used are HDMI, DV (1394/firewire) and USB. No recorders have HDMI and never will; I'm not aware of any that have USB inputs; several have DV inputs for importing camcorder footage. Composite, S-Video and YPbPr Component connections of most consumer devices are all analog. There are converters that will convert analog component to S-Video, which is useful for output devices that will only output anamorphic widescreen over their component outputs (most cable boxes). But basically, S-Video input to a recorder is as good as it gets. If the source is good quality the recording will look good.

Devices with Y'CbCr digital component output are not very common, yet. Is yours Y'CbCr output?

I checked the specs and the device does have Y'CbCr digital component outputs. The Pyro A/V Link converter will allow me to export an A/V signal via DV or S-Video to the Philips DVDR3575H/37 recorder. (The Pyro also has a digital/analog source switch.) The DVD recorder has a 4 pin DV input or S-Video input. Which one of these will yield a higher quality image?

I'm assuming it's the DV input, but I tried exporting to both DV and S-Video inputs and did not see much, if any difference, in quality. That may be because the Philips down-converts everything to SD anyway, so I'm not sure if it even matters.

The recordings are good quality, but I'm just trying to insure I'm getting the best quality possible.

I've had my 3576 for a couple of years now and been very happy. The unit was in my office and successfully outputting to the TV there (via component cables) and to the living room (via HDMI). I recently "upgraded" my configuration to take advantage of my TV's PiP -- changing the component connection to S-video and, at the same time, put an HDMI switch in so that I could send signals from either my 3576 or satellite STB to the living room. The only problem: the HDMI stopped working.

After eliminating possible bad cable problems, I suspected the HDMI switch. Even though it was successfully passing the STB signal and detected that the 3576 was putting out a signal as well -- still, just a blank picture (and no sound) in the living room. In searching, I just found the note that the 3576 won't simultaneously output to HDMI and S-video -- and thought I'd found the problem.

I appear to be wrong: even after unplugging the S-video connection, the HDMI signal still doesn't cause a picture or sound in my living room. Though, oddly, the HDMI switch does see a signal on that line (by which I mean, it displays an LED indicating a signal is present). After disconnecting the S-video, I've tried powering down/up the 3576 -- which still doesn't help. I even tried resetting the options to factory defaults; still no luck.

Can anyone suggest how to restore my HDMI signal? Is it possible that, somehow, the HDMI would have "burned out"? (I know this might, theoretically, be possible if two outputs were shorted...but that was never the case.)

I'm baffled...

Couple of quick thoughts:
1. HDMI switch is auto-sensing and, since the STB is always outputting a signal, the 3576 signal is recognized but not allowed thru?
2. Progressive Scan is ON?

Couple of quick thoughts:
1. HDMI switch is auto-sensing and, since the STB is always outputting a signal, the 3576 signal is recognized but not allowed thru?
2. Progressive Scan is ON?

Hi Wajo, thank you for the quick reply (you're dedication to this board -- so consistent and for so long -- is an amazing thing).

Two good ideas:
1. The HDMI does sense signals, but it also has a manual selector. To remove all doubt, I just tried again with the STB disconnected. The 3576 signal still not getting through.
2. Progressive scan verified as off.

I just tried something else I should have done earlier: plugging the HDMI cable from the living room directly into the 3576. (I didn't do it because cable access is so bad, it meant disassembling and reassembling a lot of wires). The direct connection works. Which seems to isolate the problem to the HDMI switch (the unit from Monoprice -- model HDX-401E). I have an RMA from Monoprice, so I guess I'll send it back for a replacement. But I'm guessing that it's more likely to be a design flaw than a single bad unit...

At least I've "proven" (I think) that it's not a 3576 problem...


Thanks Wajo (yet again)...

Did you also switch ports in the switch to see if the 3576 worked when in the STB's old port?

Did you also switch ports in the switch to see if the 3576 worked when in the STB's old port?

Yeah...I tried all four of the possible input ports. It seems pretty clear that it's the switch...though there must be something about the signal from the 3576 that's contributing to the problem. Maybe the signal levels are marginal and the loss through the switch is making it undetectable to the TV.

I'm disappointed at a purchase (of the HDMI switch) that hasn't worked out. Especially since my prior experience with Monoprice has always been very positive. I might as well try the RMA with another unit -- though, as I said, I suspect a design flaw is more likely. In the meantime, I'm going to start shopping for another switch.

I realize that I've become a spoiled internet shopper. The prices are so good and everything works so well 98% of the time. But every once in a while, things just don't work out.

- Dave

Glad you mentioned signal level... one other possibility is the amplified output circuit of the 3576... maybe it's too "hot" for the switch and, esp. if on a digital signal, it's "falling off the digital cliff" as explained here? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298409&postcount=10#Con14)

With HDMI I'm not sure how you could easily attenuate the 3576's output signal to the switch... that link has an easy test for coax (just unscrew the coax so it's "hanging by a thread".

Never been tried, but I'm wondering if you can leave one end of the HDMI cable sort of loose in the connector just for an attenuation test???

Glad you mentioned signal level... one other possibility is the amplified output circuit of the 3576... maybe it's too "hot" for the switch and, esp. if on a digital signal, it's "falling off the digital cliff" as explained here? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298409&postcount=10#Con14)

With HDMI I'm not sure how you could easily attenuate the 3576's output signal to the switch... that link has an easy test for coax (just unscrew the coax so it's "hanging by a thread".

Never been tried, but I'm wondering if you can leave one end of the HDMI cable sort of loose in the connector just for an attenuation test???

That's an interesting idea. I thought the amplification on the 3576 was only on the coax output, but perhaps its inclusion means that the engineers at Philips have a bias toward high signal output.

As a hypothesis, it fits what I've seen. Since the direct connection is a 5 meter long run, it's acting as a signal attenuator. But the cable from the 3576 to the HDMI switch is only 18 inches long...so there isn't much signal loss along the way. An interesting test would be to try a longer HDMI cable -- which, unfortunately, I don't have. But it might be worth buying a cheap cable first, before sending back my current switch.

That's a good idea. I really think you also might be able to attentuate the HDMI output by not inserting fully... that'd be a fun test here! :D

That's a good idea. I really think you also might be able to attentuate the HDMI output by not inserting fully... that'd be a fun test here! :D

Purely for the sake of science, I tried it. Sad to say: it didn't work. The design of the HDMI connector makes it much harder to "hang by a thread". But even connected that way, it didn't work.

I did get Monoprice to agree to a store credit as refund. So I'm happy about that. And have just purchased another HDMI switch, with which I hope I have better luck.

HERE's (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17851337#post17851337)a cheap universal remote replacement for the 3575/3576 if you don't have the original remote.

In the meantime, I'm going to start shopping for another switch.

I use this auto-sensing/manual 3-way switch ($15): http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21015 with my 3575, and it seems to work ok except for an occasional picture-without-sound on startup, easily fixed by cycling the inputs.

If you are using an especially long HDMI cable, that could be the problem no matter what switch you use. Have you tried the 3576 connected via your monoprice switch with a short HDMI cable (i.e., move the 3576 close to the TV temporarily).

Lately I have noticed poor reception on the digital stations with my Phillips. Since the Phillips has a QAM tuner, I am using it with cable, and I have noticed a not of break-up of the signal on several of the digital channels. I believe one channel (CBS) has a better digital signal than the others but it has a terrible analogue signal.

I don’t think the problem is with the cable because my TV does pretty good with the digital signal. Could it be that the Phillips tuner is not as good as my TV? Has anyone else noticed this?

Lately I have noticed poor reception on the digital stations with my Phillips. Since the Phillips has a QAM tuner, I am using it with cable, and I have noticed a not of break-up of the signal on several of the digital channels. I believe one channel (CBS) has a better digital signal than the others but it has a terrible analogue signal.

I don’t think the problem is with the cable because my TV does pretty good with the digital signal. Could it be that the Phillips tuner is not as good as my TV? Has anyone else noticed this?

I haven't noticed it, but then again, I don't have a newer TV either. If your TV is fairly new, then it's certainly possible that the tuner chip inside is of a later generation and more sensitive.

Hi,

I recall reading a thread on changing the hard drive out to a larger one. Does anyone know the max hard drive size that can be installed? I thought it was 500 gb, which would be unfortunate because I have a 750 gb laying around.

My 750 gb is in a usb hard drive enclosure. Any chance/way of connecting that to the 3575?

Thanks, Gary

Hi,

I recall reading a thread on changing the hard drive out to a larger one. Does anyone know the max hard drive size that can be installed? I thought it was 500 gb, which would be unfortunate because I have a 750 gb laying around.

My 750 gb is in a usb hard drive enclosure. Any chance/way of connecting that to the 3575?

Thanks, Gary
You might try searching this thread. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=940657)

Hi,

I recall reading a thread on changing the hard drive out to a larger one. Does anyone know the max hard drive size that can be installed? I thought it was 500 gb, which would be unfortunate because I have a 750 gb laying around.

My 750 gb is in a usb hard drive enclosure. Any chance/way of connecting that to the 3575?
The max usable size is 500GB altho a larger drive can be installled. So far, no one has tried a conversion from IDE/SATA to USB and it's hard to get positive feedback on here (I've tried).

Anyway, here's a direct link to the HDD upgrade help file. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12355769&postcount=39)

Thanks for the links. I'm getting rid of an old computer and it happens to have an IDE to SATA adapter that I used for a DVD RW. That opens up my possibilities for hard drives. Sounds like a fairly straight forward process. Hopefully, no problems with space when using the converter.

I really am regretting not buying an extra unit when Walmart was closing them out last summer. I could have gotten one for $200. :(

Gary

Thanks for the links. I'm getting rid of an old computer and it happens to have an IDE to SATA adapter that I used for a DVD RW. That opens up my possibilities for hard drives. Sounds like a fairly straight forward process. Hopefully, no problems with space when using the converter.

I really am regretting not buying an extra unit when Walmart was closing them out last summer. I could have gotten one for $200. :(
People report just a little effort reqd to fit the SATA adapter, but I've seenm other adapters that mention a new "more compact" design, but I haven't read of anyone using any adapater except the one used in the first IDE/SATA conversions.

As far as an "extra" unit, the 2160A would be a great companion to a 3575 cuz the remotes are unit-specific, and J&R seems to get "regular" batches of perfectly good, almost new, refurbs for $159.00. Might just wait for one of their new batches? (Link on 1st pg of the help file Sticky thread, #1 in my sig.)

Lately I have noticed poor reception on the digital stations with my Phillips. Since the Phillips has a QAM tuner, I am using it with cable, and I have noticed a not of break-up of the signal on several of the digital channels. I believe one channel (CBS) has a better digital signal than the others but it has a terrible analogue signal.

I don’t think the problem is with the cable because my TV does pretty good with the digital signal. Could it be that the Phillips tuner is not as good as my TV? Has anyone else noticed this?

I gather that all digital tuners are not created equal. I say this because for around a year, my 3576 had problems with CBS on clear QAM while my HDTV QAM tuner did not. It would have freezes and pixelation with regularity. I had a cable tech come out to see what was happening (before I got the HDTV) and he said that it appears as though the signal from cable was too strong on that channel and that it probably would rectify itself down the road when they are done with the digital transition. Sure enough, it's fine now.

I gather that all digital tuners are not created equal. I say this because for around a year, my 3576 had problems with CBS on clear QAM while my HDTV QAM tuner did not. It would have freezes and pixelation with regularity. I had a cable tech come out to see what was happening (before I got the HDTV) and he said that it appears as though the signal from cable was too strong on that channel and that it probably would rectify itself down the road when they are done with the digital transition. Sure enough, it's fine now.

Humm I have an amplifier so that could be the problem. I have another Phillips without an amplifier so I can compare them and see but I remember getting pixilation on the other recorder and the TV does it very little. Since the TV is HD and the recorder is not, could the problem be a HD signal with a SD recorder?

Hello,

I have a couple questions:

1. The OTA stations here in Northern Ohio broadcast in 720P and 1080i. I have a 1080P capable projector. What should I set the HDMI resolution to on the 3575? I is worth it setting to 1080P?

2. Is there a better machine similar to this that has taken it's place? I may want to upgrade.

Thanks.

Hello,

I have a couple questions:

1. The OTA stations here in Northern Ohio broadcast in 720P and 1080i. I have a 1080P capable projector. What should I set the HDMI resolution to on the 3575? I is worth it setting to 1080P?

2. Is there a better machine similar to this that has taken it's place? I may want to upgrade.

Thanks.


1. Check all resolutions and see what looks best on your system.

2. Just the Magnavox 2160

Thanks - it's hard to tell which is better.

Does anyone out there up-convert OTA TV to 1080P?

Humm I have an amplifier so that could be the problem. I have another Phillips without an amplifier so I can compare them and see but I remember getting pixilation on the other recorder and the TV does it very little. Since the TV is HD and the recorder is not, could the problem be a HD signal with a SD recorder?

I can't speak for the amplifier, but it shouldn't be a problem just because the signal is HD. Those are the channels I'm getting on mine... the Clear QAM HD channels from cablevision. Yeah it's downrezzed to SD, but it's still tuning in the HD channels.

Thanks - it's hard to tell which is better.

Does anyone out there up-convert OTA TV to 1080P?
Until someone who's OTA responds, I'm on cable and send 480P to my LCDs cuz it makes a slightly noticeable difference... better than 720 or 1080... from my 3575's and 2160. I let my HDTVs do the scaling and converting to best "fit" the TVs' native (fixed-pixel) resolution.

When I play commercial DVDs, which are created with YCbCr digital component video, I don't see that same slight difference.

I also use YCbCr for my HDMI Format.

Lately I have noticed poor reception on the digital stations with my Phillips. Since the Phillips has a QAM tuner, I am using it with cable, and I have noticed a not of break-up of the signal on several of the digital channels. I believe one channel (CBS) has a better digital signal than the others but it has a terrible analogue signal.

I don’t think the problem is with the cable because my TV does pretty good with the digital signal. Could it be that the Phillips tuner is not as good as my TV? Has anyone else noticed this?

I have exactly the same problem with the QAM (ie. local HD) signals from Comcast. My new Sony Bravia handles them beautifully, whether connect directly to the cable, passed through the Philips 3576, or fed via a splitter to the TV and DVR. The 3576, on the other hand, does have annoying break ups on just the HDTV equivalents of my local broadcast stations (2-13). ALL of the standard DTV channels work fine.

It seems the Philips does a bit better after the splitter though, so I've ordered some in-line attenuators to see if the signal is just too strong for its tuner.

Follow up:

I experimented with some inline coax attenuators and was able to get crystal clear reception, proving that the Comcast signal was too strong for the Philips' ATSC tuner.

But analog reception (NTSC) was significantly hurt by the drop in signal strength. To fix that problem, I reconfigured with an A-B switch to allow switching of attenuation in/out depending on the tuner. I can watch, record, or dub top quality programming from any source now -- well worth the effort in my opinion.

I'm just glad I didn't follow my first impulse and buy an amplifier, which would have worsened the problem.

My Sylvania ZV450SL8 does not tune digital sub-channels below the channel 73 range and can only access digital sub-channels in the channel 73-118 range through direct channel entry. The remote’s channel up/down buttons select only between L1 and L2 when DTV is selected. Analog channels may be tuned with channel up/down or through direct channel entry when TV is selected. Wajo, dww and Dartman gave advice ranging from upgrading the coax cable, switching back to analog and then back to digital or holding the remote’s DTV/TV button. These remedial measures have not corrected the problems.

Digado ... sounds similar (in the inability to channel up /down, but to accept direct entry) but mine did not have trouble getting the range of stations initially, and fortunately it did recapture its settings after several rescans. Had you ever tried the all or nothing technique to lock in the stations on the sylvania?

I'm going to keep an eye on it . The funny thing is, this is not one of the refurbs, it's the only one that I bought 'new' from W, so .. it's under warranty. In fact, it's under extended warranty. But, I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with it, per se. Will try some watchful waiting and see what happens. Glad I hadnt tried to update the drive or something ... I would have thought I broke something!

Digado ... sounds similar (in the inability to channel up /down, but to accept direct entry) but mine did not have trouble getting the range of stations initially, and fortunately it did recapture its settings after several rescans. Had you ever tried the all or nothing technique to lock in the stations on the sylvania?

The AON procedure was a later development after the Sylvania had been given to my stepdaughter. I demonstrated the Sylvania's problems and how best to use it before she took it home. Later she told me that it was satisfactory for her use. The Sylvania was manufactured in April 2007.

My Philips 3576, the other weak QAM tuner recorder, is a frequent-use "workhorse" (as mentioned earlier) so I've not pulled it out of service for experimentation. The Philips 3576 was manufactured in February 2008.

The Portland Oregon area was one of the first where Comcast rolled out it's "Network Enhancements" i.e., scrambling former clear QAM sub-channels, so there is very little clear QAM programming left that I record. My (upgraded) Magnavox 2080 is set up for recording the few remaining clear QAM sub-channels. That 2080 has been a clear QAM "champ" from it's initial set-up in December 2008. The 2080 was manufactured in July 2007.

After successfully dubbing 4 one-half hour titles to a TY 8x DVD-R, I consistently get "Cannot record to this disc" error messages from the machine.

It will not erase/format a DVD+RW nor will it write a dub to a DVD-R disk, nor will it copy to disc a completed timer-record-to-disc. (In fact it will actually physically burn/write to the dvd and then fail with the error message. The written-to disc is unreadable.)

Is this fixable by me or do I need to replace the DVD recorder unit? Since the unit is just 4x, not sure where I can get a replacement. :confused:

BTW, the 3575 is a refurb unit I got in Jan2008 under warranty to replace a defunct 3555 that I'd bought in Jan, 2007, . The 3575 has been in use since then, ie for just over 2 years.

TIA

noend7

You can try a couple of things, in sequence depending on results:

1, Pull power cord for ~10 sec, replug and see if that clears the problem.

2. Pull power cord for ~10 minutes, then while holding the power button in on the front of the unit, plug back in. You'll prob. have to redo settings and timer rec programs with this.

If those don't work, let us know for other options.

Thanks wajo! I'll try em and see what happens

noend7

Well, the first had no effect.

The second (hard reset) got me able to erase/reformat an +RW disc.

I then tried a dub HDD->DVD+RW. It made it through the first pass and and it quit on the second pass with the "Cannot record to this disc" error message with E 22 in the LR corner. (I had gotten E 4 before). It did however write on the disc an "Empty Title" menu item the same size as the attempted dub

Suggestions?

TIA

Well, the first had no effect.

The second (hard reset) got me able to erase/reformat an +RW disc. Then tried a dub HDD->DVD+RW and it quit with the "Cannot record to this disc" error message with
E 22 in the LR corner. (I had gotten E 4 before)
The previous error, E4, meant that the OPC area of the disc was full. That's an area near the hub that the machine does a series of disc perf. tests in and stores the info there every time the disc is inserted, or loaded if you leave the disc in the tray and turn on and off. If it can't do the OPC tests. it won't let you write to that disc.

E22 is just an undefined "Disc Error" and might just indicate a poor quality disc or lots of other things. Have you changed disc mfgr/batches lately?

I'd take a new, blank disc from that same batch and use the 3575's media identifier utility, described here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12389088&postcount=76), to see who made the disc and what media they used?

Thanks No.
My DVD+RW disks are Verbatim 4x, by most rated the best. However, all have been reused a lot and I only have 2 empty - both bombed on the 3575 but work fine when my PC uses them.

My DVD-R are Taiyo Yuden 8x plain lacquer, The best. I'll do another hard reset and try a -R disk and see what happens. More to come

Tried a Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD-R... for the dub HDD->DVD-R.

As before, it made it through the first pass and and it quit on the second pass with the "Cannot record to this disc" error message with E 22 in the LR corner.

What now?

TIA

noend7

Well, the first had no effect.

The second (hard reset) got me able to erase/reformat an +RW disc.

I then tried a dub HDD->DVD+RW. It made it through the first pass and and it quit on the second pass with the "Cannot record to this disc" error message with E 22 in the LR corner. (I had gotten E 4 before). It did however write on the disc an "Empty Title" menu item the same size as the attempted dub

Suggestions?

TIA
Just to be sure we are on the same page, have you tried dubbing different programs to the DVD from the HDD? I have had 2 or 3 E22 errors, and the problem was always with the program on the HDD. When I tried to play it, it would stall at some point in the program, even though it had been OK at one time. I believe that all my troubles were traceable to the use of "Title Spit" and the eventual corruption it created.

The fact that your error number changed after the hard reset would make this seem less likely to be the issue, but I just thought it was worth asking.

Why not... I'll try a couple of alternate titles

Tried a Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD-R... for the dub HDD->DVD-R.

As before, it made it through the first pass and and it quit on the second pass with the "Cannot record to this disc" error message with E 22 in the LR corner.

What now?

TIA

noend7
How full is the HDD? Don't own a 3575, but with the Panasonic hdd models, if there's too much recorded to the frive, with little free space left, it can cause dubbing and finalizing errors.

No harm in trying. I'll try several different HDD programs and see what happens.


OK, this is getting curiouser and curiouser!

I have two machines, a 3575 and a 2160W9A. The problem I raised have been with the 3575. So...

1. I tried dubbing two HDD programs that I'd not tried before to a TY DVD-R on the 3575. It worked flawlessly! So I'm now re-watching the HDD titles I'd previously tried to dub unsuccessfully on that machine to see if there are any visible "dings".

2. I tried one of the "bad" Verbatim DVD+RWs in the 2160. Erase/formatted it on on L3. Tried dubbing two HDD titles to it. It bombed with a "Cannot record..." error. BUT, there was a disk menu written to the rejected disc, with the first of the two titles in playable condition! Seems bizarre.

Both results seem totally counter-intuitive. But I'm sure no expert yet.

Suggestions?

TIA

noend7

No harm in trying. I'll try several different HDD programs and see what happens.


OK, this is getting curiouser and curiouser!

I have two machines, a 3575 and a 2160W9A. The problem I raised have been with the 3575. So...

1. I tried dubbing two HDD programs that I'd not tried before to a TY DVD-R on the 3575. It worked flawlessly! So I'm now re-watching the HDD titles I'd previously tried to dub unsuccessfully on that machine to see if there are any visible "dings".

2. I tried one of the "bad" Verbatim DVD+RWs in the 2160. Erase/formatted it on on L3. Tried dubbing two HDD titles to it. It bombed with a "Cannot record..." error. BUT, there was a disk menu written to the rejected disc, with the first of the two titles in playable condition! Seems bizarre.

Both results seem totally counter-intuitive. But I'm sure no expert yet.

Suggestion?
Did you turn Recording > Make Recording Compatible ON in the 2160 (and the 3576 while you're at it)? That way, discs created in one can be used in the other as described in the link below.

See Option 1 here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12298483&postcount=18#RecDVD5)

wajo

That's not an issue. I'm just trying to dub titles off the 3575 HDD. No cross machine dubbing involved. That exercise just "proved" that my DVD+RW won't work on either one.

And Westley-C... There's only 7 hrs of SPP material on my 3575 HDD so I don't think that's an issue. Thanks

wajo

I think I figured it out.

The two titles on the 3575 HDD I was trying to dub to DVD were Unprotected. I protected them and was able to dub successfully to a DVD-R. Not sure why it made a difference

wajo

I think I figured it out.

The two titles on the 3575 HDD I was trying to dub to DVD were Unprotected. I protected them and was able to dub successfully to a DVD-R. Not sure why it made a difference
It shouldn't have. :confused: