1) If your HDMI PQ picture grainy or noisy try inserting an HDMI switcher. I’ve tried a Gefen and the Psyclone. The Psyclone cleaned up the picture in a big way. While digital bits are digital bits ground and shielding are more important than ever.

2) Use the Jensen VRD-1FF Cable TV RF Isolator to prevent ground loop noise and hum in cable based systems. Available from Markertek.

3) Use the Furman PF-PRO to increase the amount of bass and reduce harshness in audio. Insert at the A/C wall socket before any other power conditioning. For me it cleans up the picture and makes for a more solid and powerful presentation. Your mileage will vary here as power factor correction and local energy storage are controversial and vary by system. I use the professional wedge version because it was a better deal (and I can stand all the lights)

Bonus section
So you don’t fall asleep watching your beautiful picture now, switch to a European type of space efficient yet better support type of seating. The surround sound quality is also superior as the rear channel path is now not physically blocked! (See how smart I am?:))
Who else is tired of furniture stores only selling large overstuffed crap?
While used in Video and bookstores for several years these chairs were generally not even for sale. Or very expensive. But now Target sells a quality black version (MSRP $279) with somewhat firm support which suits me just perfect.

Hmmm... just bought the Gefen; hadn't heard of the Psyclone.

I hear you about furniture. When I watch a movie alone I recline every seat in the theater to get better surround...

I left off another important tweak:
4) Always physically separate components. Never ever stack them. The worst offenders are satellite receivers followed by components with large transformers.

As a test yesterday I placed a PS3 on top of my Scientific Atlanta satellite receiver. The HDMI based sound quality when playing a CD was severely degraded. Once the PS3 was moved the SQ was magically restored with great clarity and balance and no digital hash.

The culprit is the field coupling which induces current flow in the circuitry of adjacent components.

The Psyclone switcher is available from Best Buy. Its has the best performance, appearance and features out of the many switchers I've been through.:)

But now Target sells a quality black version (MSRP $279) with somewhat firm support which suits me just perfect.


How about a model number, name or link for this item at Target?

As a test yesterday I placed a PS3 on top of my Scientific Atlanta satellite receiver. The HDMI based sound quality when playing a CD was severely degraded. Once the PS3 was moved the SQ was magically restored with great clarity and balance and no digital hash.

The culprit is the field coupling which induces current flow in the circuitry of adjacent components.
Is this a joke? April Fool's already passed.

Yes please. Which chair is this?

Is this a joke? April Fool's already passed.
Electromagnetics is no joke. Take two wires and run them side by-side and you create capacitive coupling. Now put the wires in a coil and you get inductive coupling. Right through the air.
Practically speaking simply separating equipment by a couple of inches to a couple of feet (for the huge transformers) can work wonders.
This is a large and complex subject. I was offering practical advice which is free and offers large returns. Most systems have several issues such as this, so many will not hear the improvement until they have all been corrected. Just ask Bob:).

I'll find the receipt for the chair tonight. Its leather and black or brown. The black was firmer and my choice. Even the wife said it was comfortable.

Update:
Here it ALMOST WAS: (AVS mangles the link)
Search Target for:
Hartford Stationary Chair

Its $279 in the stores and does go on sale. The chair is NOT too big (as usual) or junky like the one at that largest video retailer.

BB (short for Bye-Bye) :)

Electromagnetics is no joke. Take two wires and run them side by-side and you create capacitive coupling. Now put the wires in a coil and you get inductive coupling. Right through the air.
Practically speaking simply separating equipment by a couple of inches to a couple of feet (for the huge transformers) can work wonders.
This is a large and complex subject. I was offering practical advice which is free and offers large returns. Most systems have several issues such as this, so many will not hear the improvement until they have all been corrected. Just ask Bob:).
You're telling me that "simply separating equipment by a couple of inches can work wonders ...and offers large returns."

Seriously? I would think if something is that obvious that it would be clearly demonstrable and common knowledge to everyone here. Do you have some references of where anyone has done some blinded testing with separating equipment?

I doubt you'll find satisfaction here; people say the same things about cables and amplifiers with no significant measureable differences and which fail to be discerned in blind tests.

You're telling me that "simply separating equipment by a couple of inches can work wonders ...and offers large returns."

Seriously? I would think if something is that obvious that it would be clearly demonstrable and common knowledge to everyone here. Do you have some references of where anyone has done some blinded testing with separating equipment?
Sure. The custom video installers here should be familiar with this subject.:)

I use the Belden Cable AV Pocket Guide (not sure of the exact title) as a practical reference.

Widescreen Review has an article this month from Furman about Power Factor Correction.

Take an am radio and move it around your components and see if there is interference.

Take an am radio and move it around your components and see if there is interference.
Interference on the am radio or interference with my BluRay player? You're making a large leap from am radio interference to "large returns/wonders" of difference in the sound quality of a CD, aren't you?

Interference on the am radio or interference with my BluRay player? You're making a large leap from am radio interference to "large returns/wonders" of difference in the sound quality of a CD, aren't you?
Every system has its flaws with some more serious than others. A system is only as good as its weakest link (or greatest noise generator).
The noise/distortion/interference can be from both internal and external sources. A few inches difference in placement can make a difference.

The electromagnetic spectrum goes from DC to light and the behavior (issues) in one range is completely different than others. Test facilities to measure interference are very expensive. Which is why hardly anyone (except the FCC) measures it.

I've used to live 8 miles from many high power broadcast television antennas. While I could mitigate some the high amounts of RF energy it still degraded the sound and picture quality. A large new church was built in the same vicinity and even the pastor acknowledged the harsh sound quality:)

I quit serious listening when I determined that my Krell preamps digital section sounded best when plugged into a digital power conditioning outlet and its analog section (digital section turned off) sounded its best when plugged into to the analog power conditioning outlet. Whew!

How can an HDMI switcher "clean up" the picture quality?

Unless I am mistaken about how HDMI is implemented, digital 1's and 0's are all or nothing. You can't have "clean" 1's and 0's. Either the information arrives or it doesn't.

I have heard of people having "sparklies" when they have long HDMI cable runs, but isn't that because those pixels completely lose their assigned data, thus it went "blank"?

It also doesn't make sense that an HDMI switcher would "know" how to clean up a picture. This is something a vido processor can do because it re-processes the digital information and changes it with various algorithms, but an HDMI switcher really should just connect two wires together, or "repeat" a signal so the information arrives to it's destination.

I'm not trying to get in a heated debate as I may be wrong about my understanding of digital data transmission and processing.

Hartford chair from the Target web (http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/sr=1-1/qid=1176229115******sr_1_1/601-2047749-6291310?ie=UTF8&asin=B000GEVUG8) page:

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B000GEVUG8.16._SCLZZZZZZZ_SS260_.jpg

Features

Upholstered with smooth black leather
Frame is solid rubberwood


I just love rubberwood chairs! Slap a butkicker on one and it's like sitting in a bowl of Jello :eek:

I think the lack of cupholders kills it for me. I use my cupholders every time I watch a movie, either for a drink, or to store my spectacles in when I am done. That way, they are always there where I need them.

But I must do something, as my current chairs are not really comfortable IMHO, even though everyone else who uses them says they are. They are all just crazy.

Going from a purely theoretical point of view, a digital transmission can have an inbetween state between all or nothing as it attempts to recover data. Most digital communication systems implement some kind of error correction where redundant data is inserted into the bitstream to assist recovery of data when the transmission channel is less than optimal.

Of course, error correction can only fix a finite set of data, and you may have a situation "inbetween" that successfully corrects some data, but stumbles on others.

In this particular case, I would guess that the original link without the switch had some kind of borderline impairment. Using an active buffered switch could improve things if the new links have less impairments or are more robust.

This is a case of reliable communication, receiving correctly the original 1's and 0's. This is what we should have had in the first place - ideally, the switch should have not had any effect.

I'm not trying to get in a heated debate as I may be wrong about my understanding of digital data transmission and processing.
You're not wrong. The OP is spouting a bunch of pseudo-scientific nonsense more worthy of the Art Bell radio show than AVS. :mad:

I think the lack of cupholders kills it for me. I use my cupholders every time I watch a movie, either for a drink, or to store my spectacles in when I am done. That way, they are always there where I need them.

But I must do something, as my current chairs are not really comfortable IMHO, even though everyone else who uses them says they are. They are all just crazy.

Cup holders are overrated.
You could always get a pocket protector for your spectacles and one of those hats your pour your drink into with the straws that come down the side of your face. The added bonus to this is that you can still drink from your hat thru the straw, while fully reclined without spilling any on yourself :eek:

"Widescreen Review has an article this month from Furman about Power Factor Correction. "

Yes, and it reads like the kingd of marketing that preys on those w/o a technica background.

As far as digital 1's and 0's being all or nothing, I believe the argument is that the fast switching transitions create noise which affects the analog circuitry; there may be some merit in that argument.

How can an HDMI switcher "clean up" the picture quality?

Unless I am mistaken about how HDMI is implemented, digital 1's and 0's are all or nothing. You can't have "clean" 1's and 0's. Either the information arrives or it doesn't.

I have heard of people having "sparklies" when they have long HDMI cable runs, but isn't that because those pixels completely lose their assigned data, thus it went "blank"?

It also doesn't make sense that an HDMI switcher would "know" how to clean up a picture. This is something a vido processor can do because it re-processes the digital information and changes it with various algorithms, but an HDMI switcher really should just connect two wires together, or "repeat" a signal so the information arrives to it's destination.

I'm not trying to get in a heated debate as I may be wrong about my understanding of digital data transmission and processing.
True. The data rates of HDMI devices are very high which leads to special new grounding and shielding precautions as the emissions a challenge. I am not a hardware engineer but I've examined the stages input of several HDMI receivers and all were encased in metal. Grounding techniques vary by frequency. For example an audio star ground is inferior for digital signals.
Remember there is no perfect ground or shield.
Most HDMI switches incorporate equalizers to pre distort the signal based upon the cable length. But the digital words do not change.
Unlike a digital switcher, a video processor introduces new quantization errors which will result in an increase in banding or noise level (or both). Again let the professionals at Microsoft, Sony, Warner and Universal continue to admirably strive toward mastering perfection. Only they have the original raw data (14-16 bit word depth). BTW their releases (and that of the networks) are getting better by the month.

Here is an excellent book:
http://www.hottconsultants.com/book.html
or one of my favorites Tony Waldron etc:
http://www.ofcom.org.uk/static/archive/ra/topics/research/RAwebPages/Radiocomms/pages/mittech/resources/shieldcab.htm
Good luck in your studies!

Hartford chair from the Target
Upholstered with smooth black leather
Frame is solid rubberwood

I just love rubberwood chairs! Slap a butkicker on one and it's like sitting in a bowl of Jello
Sometimes it seems we Americans are the last to appreciate better ideas. Does anyone else wonder why the JVC RS1 was introduced in Germany and England first?:)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubberwood

Lol, maybe I'll get one of those hats.

BTW, the Art Bell show was where I first heard about OLED technology. I was driving late one night and Art had a guest on who worked for United Display (stock symbol PANL). OLED is real anyway. I bought stock in the company shortly after that, and as of today its up over 50%. Of course, where it will be tomorrow is anyone's guess.

"Widescreen Review has an article this month from Furman about Power Factor Correction. "

Yes, and it reads like the kingd of marketing that preys on those w/o a technica background.

As far as digital 1's and 0's being all or nothing, I believe the argument is that the fast switching transitions create noise which affects the analog circuitry; there may be some merit in that argument.
I agree. WSR is a hard pill to swallow much of the time. But if others can use it to suit their biases then why can't I dabble too? :)

I’ll assume that most members are using the stand-alone HDMI switchers at this point in technology time. There are two extremes in this market segment price wise: from the inexpensive Monoprice units at $50 to the Gefen gear at $400.

Do they both successfully switch audio and video as they advertise? Yes (after 3 years and 25 updates). It has been a very painful ordeal!
But just because they perform their basic switching function do they deliver pristine digital picture and sound quality? Not necessarily.

By there vary nature, these HDMI switchers are very noisy and should be carefully chosen and setup correctly. Many months of experimenting reveals these little wonders (devils?) do easily degrade both the picture and sound quality. One major reason is the wall wart (WW) power supplies. These devices are frequently not up to the task and pollute the rest of the system.
For example I’ve seen DLP displays look washed out with the latest Monoprice.
Here we spend thousands on quality components only to have it ruined by a 50 cent power supply designed by someone of questionable credentials. I could not get the Monoprice switcher to sound and look excellent even with a good power supply.

Note: Hopefully this entire situation will go-away when HDMI switchers are carefully engineered into A/V controllers and receivers in the coming months and years.
Note 2: Monoprice cables are a true bargain

Assuming that you have a quality switcher/power supply now we move on to the system integration phase:
Too much conditioning (or the wrong type) results in a darker less dynamic picture and less punchy sound rolled-off bland sound quality.
Too little can result in a noisy washed out picture and harsh constricted two dimensional sound qualities.

As a general rule each components A/C power line should be isolated from the others. As an example here is a separates based implementation which use three conditioners plugged into the same A/C outlet:

Belkin PF60 conditioner:
http://www.thetwistergroup.com/product/AP41300-12%20D21914.html
Sony PS3 – digital outlet
Toshiba Xa2 - digital outlet
Butler TDB5150 multi-channel amplifier – amplifier outlet

Furman PF-PRO R Power Factor conditioner:
Denon DN-A7100 HDMI A/V Controller
Psyclone HDMI 4*1 switcher

Belkin API 0300 conditioner:
http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=187082
Scientific Atlanta 8300HD HDMI HD satellite receiver - digital outlet
Samsung 6176 1080p DLP - TV outlet

Lets hope this tweak helps those who see "film-grain", even when there is none in the source.:)

I have twp projectors does anyone know of a hdmi switch/splitter with dual outputs that WONT introduce any noise into my video chain? im looking for a high quality device that offers the switching/splitting of the hdmi signal with no video artifacts, what are the proinstallers and reviewers using?

I have twp projectors does anyone know of a hdmi switch/splitter with dual outputs that WONT introduce any noise into my video chain? im looking for a high quality device that offers the switching/splitting of the hdmi signal with no video artifacts, what are the proinstallers and reviewers using?


I use an Octava cross switch that allows 3 x HDMI inputs and 2 x HDMI ouputs. It works very well.

Dazzer

I will say that I went a few weeks without my Panamax 7500 PRO power management system (conditioner/msrp 1999.00) and in that time fram the picture was somewhat noisey at times. After I put it in the picture was cleaned up completely. As far as HDMI switchers go I think it also depends on the length of HDMI cable you are using. I have three 35 foot HDMI cables (monster) running and and sometimes I would get a little noise. I then added HDMI BLASTERS from KEY DIGITAL and that was all cleared up. So I would like to think I am running my system at the most optimal level... The picture is terrific so I guess I am... :)

So how did (or does) the PSYCLONE HDMI SWITCHER clean up your picture? I see how it has gain controls on the remote... Anyone? :)

Listen - With digital video interconnections, there are no "subtle" noise or "graininess" problems due to electronic interference. The way that data is transmitted, errors in transmission will NOT show up as subtle effects. What you will see is:

- individual pixels flashing solid white (the easiest case to see)
- total loss of signal
- frame dropouts and freezing


If you're not seeing effects like this, all the signal conditioning in the world isn't going to do anything for you.

That's what I figured... :)

Listen - With digital video interconnections, there are no "subtle" noise or "graininess" problems due to electronic interference. The way that data is transmitted, errors in transmission will NOT show up as subtle effects. What you will see is:

- individual pixels flashing solid white (the easiest case to see)
- total loss of signal
- frame dropouts and freezing


If you're not seeing effects like this, all the signal conditioning in the world isn't going to do anything for you.

Amen! Believing otherwise is why companies are able to sell $50/foot snake oil cables made of unobtainium.

More on topic, I have a Gefen 4x4 HDMI Matrix switcher and see no artifacts of any kind. But then these puppies are about $2K

oooo I love tin foil hat threads. Where is that Vahalla dude...then we can really get this show on the road!

Art Bell announces retirement on 07/02/07 episode of "Coast to Coast" and Gary Reber announces financial difficulties with WSR in the now combined July/August edition. World notified on saturday 07/01/07 that the public relations officer at Rosewell, N.M. admits in deathbed confession that (extraterrestrials,spaceships, weird metals) it all really happened! Warning, warning! This is not a joke! It only appears written that way!

Now that is a good post! :D

oooo I love tin foil hat threads. Where is that Vahalla dude...then we can really get this show on the road!
LMAO! :D

oooo I love tin foil hat threads.
For you reading pleasure; the best Tin Foil Hat site on the net. :)

http://zapatopi.net/afdb/

Well I for one have had an issue with stacking components...

granted it was the cheap BFD 1124 and the chassis managed to ground to a power conditioner/block and make an audible hum on the subwoofer line (attached to the BFD)

Anyway...that was of course analog, and an obvious ground problem but hey...

Cut a few blocks of wood and separate your components with them. Extremely little cost, you will be surprised how things will improve. No cost or profit, no marketing. Can't be? The world is flat. Instead of intelectualizing which is really here a display of ones lack of understanding, just try it. If you don't you will be missing out but hell your ignorance will make you feel superior because you know because you don't know that you don't know. Still lov ya Noah. :)

Study complete. The best wall wart for optimizing picture and sound quality (think HDMI boxes) is the Hosa:
http://www.zzounds.com/item--HOSADC477
High efficiency and lots of current too for $14! On the other hand Stereophile recommends one for only $250.

Energy Drinks
-----------
We used the unhealthful margarine and Crisco for 50 years without realizing our sheer stupidly.
Now the marketplace is flooded with energy drinks containing L-Arginine and Taurine chemicals. I've conducted my own studies and with out a doubt, they severely degrade my vision. One can of Red Bull a day made for a decrease in visual acuity each day. After three days I had a difficult time focusing on my computer screen. It takes a month for my vision to be completely restored. I've tried several in repeated tests.

As a background I have been successfully treated for hyper tension so there may be interactions between the powerful chemicals. I wish I knew as much as the smart(ass) Dr. House. But in reality our doctors are clueless too (that is until the next visit of them attractive pharmaceutical company representatives).
Well, I better quit now as I'm getting a bit too excited. :)

Study complete. The best wall wart for optimizing picture and sound quality (think HDMI boxes) is the Hosa:
http://www.zzounds.com/item--HOSADC477
High efficiency and lots of current too for $14! On the other hand Stereophile recommends one for only $250.

Energy Drinks
-----------
We used the unhealthful margarine and Crisco for 50 years without realizing our sheer stupidly.
Now the marketplace is flooded with energy drinks containing L-Arginine and Taurine chemicals. I've conducted my own studies and with out a doubt, they severely degrade my vision. One can of Red Bull a day made for a decrease in visual acuity each day. After three days I had a difficult time focusing on my computer screen. It takes a month for my vision to be completely restored. I've tried several in repeated tests.

As a background I have been successfully treated for hyper tension so there may be interactions between the powerful chemicals. I wish I knew as much as the smart(ass) Dr. House. But in reality our doctors are clueless too (that is until the next visit of them attractive pharmaceutical company representatives).
Well, I better quit now as I'm getting a bit too excited. :)

Can you provide the data that prove your statement about the ADC unit?

I thought there was some activity that would cause blindness? You wouldn't know about that would you?

You also forgot:

Nutrasweet in the presence of heat degrades into methanol, a neurotoxin

Triclosan in antibacterial soap in the presence of chlorinated water can produce chloroform, a carcinogen

UV radiation creates a radioactive isotope of strontium, which is absorbed into vegetation eaten by cattle, which then concentrate the strontium in their milk, which is consumed by humans in vast unnecessary volumes where the strontium settles in the bones leading to various blood cancers like leukemia.

Hemoglobin breakdown produces toxic aldehydes which cause all sorts of dna replication errors and damage including cancers.

Prepare to meet thy maker. :)

I think this kind of baloney (junk science vs. real science) hit it's peak during the hi-end analog audio days of the 1970's and 80's. It was about that time that some "audiophiles" were paying as much or more for their cabling as for their components... $700/foot for "Oxygen-Free, Single-Crystal, Balanced-Impedance, yada, yada, Woven Cable" to make the 8 ohm connection from amp to speakers. Same folks were even spending big bucks for magic cylinders strategically placed on their amps to "clean up the sound". The dollars wasted was totally amazing.

I think this kind of baloney (junk science vs. real science) hit it's peak during the hi-end analog audio days of the 1970's and 80's. It was about that time that some "audiophiles" were paying as much or more for their cabling as for their components... $700/foot for "Oxygen-Free, Single-Crystal, Balanced-Impedance, yada, yada, Woven Cable" to make the 8 ohm connection from amp to speakers. Same folks were even spending big bucks for magic cylinders strategically placed on their amps to "clean up the sound". The dollars wasted was totally amazing.

I dunno, I wove some of my own cable in the 70's and it was awesome dude.
I used to listen to Led Zepplin thru my Montgomery Wards phono and hi-end cables and it was rockin'

Scott(just turned 50 last week)

There are 1001 ways to introduce noise into a home theater system. I've probably experienced them all. Some members have complained their new projector introduced more picture noise than the last. This observation can very well be true. Grounding and shielding techniques are extremely important subjects yet are never discussed here as its beyond the scope. Further measuring ground noise is expensive and tricky. Any change in a system can affect the entire system. Its like a human body (I'll let the doctors confirm this).

Safety Grounding and UL Certification
-----------------------------------
Ideally the center/third/green wire should not have a voltage or current running in it. Its primarily there in for the failure of the electronics inside of them olden days of 30,000 volt CRTs. However over the years the trend has been to omit the third prong from the components AC receptacle for consumer gear. What ever happened to the exposed metal chassis being a shock hazard? :rolleyes:
Note: professional gear still include the third AC prong as the gear can be subjected to abuse such as exposure to the weather.

Does the third prong introduce noise into the picture? In my experimental, foolish systems it most certainly does. I observed large increase of three dimensionality and naturalness with the LCD flat panel and LCoS. The DLP's improvement was a bit less striking as dither noise limited its results.

Don't Do What I Have Done
--------------------------
My (again) foolish strategy is to keep the third prong connected for all power conditioning but then to cheat it for every piece of three pronged gear. For example the JVC RS-1 now exhibits extremely low noise levels and offers a remarkably neutral transparency.*

Advanced Tweaker Topics
-------------------------
WSR has dabbled into this mystic field of exotic power conditioning and claimed similar improvements. In my opinion, the results will vary from system to system. A lot of it (especially the mega-cables) are pure quackery. But other techniques can make for a significant audible and visual difference. Tweaking is what high-end is all about.
But one area that I've learned to stay away from is balanced power.

I've been know to use battery based true sine wave double conversion (except for the power amplifiers) and local instantaneous energy storage (the local AC capacitor).



*now my PQ is almost as good as Joerod's new toy:)

Listen - With digital video interconnections, there are no "subtle" noise or "graininess" problems due to electronic interference. The way that data is transmitted, errors in transmission will NOT show up as subtle effects. What you will see is:

- individual pixels flashing solid white (the easiest case to see)
- total loss of signal
- frame dropouts and freezing


If you're not seeing effects like this, all the signal conditioning in the world isn't going to do anything for you.

You think 1 bit = 1 pixel? What about color encoding? If 1 bit in the color encoding is flipped wouldn't that simply degrade picture quality. How do you encode color to 1920x1080 bits if 1 bit = 1 pixel?

I will have to study HDMI more. I am an EE and signal integrity is my area of expertise. I can see where flipped bits CAN degrade picture quality but I do not know enough about how images are passed via HDMI to tell you how it can be degraded.

I think you are more familiar with DirectTV and seeing missing data due to lost chucks of data.

HDMI allows 24-48 bits to describe 1 pixel. See below from Wiki page on HDMI. As with all digital transmission there may be some sort of single bit error correction. I have even seen 2 or more bit error correction. However there are always a set of errors that can go undetected (remote possibility).

From Wiki:

TMDS channel
The Transition Minimized Differential Signaling (TMDS) channel:

Carries video, audio, and auxiliary data via one of three modes called the Video Data Period, the Data Island Period, and the Control Period. During the Video Data Period, the pixels of an active video line are transmitted. During the Data Island period (which occurs during the horizontal and vertical blanking intervals), audio and auxiliary data are transmitted within a series of packets. The Control Period occurs between Video and Data Island periods.
Signaling method: Formerly according to DVI 1.0 spec. Single-link (Type A HDMI) or dual-link (Type B HDMI).
Video pixel rate: 25 MHz to 340 MHz (Type A, as of 1.3) or to 680 MHz (Type B). Video formats with rates below 25 MHz (e.g. 13.5 MHz for 480i/NTSC) transmitted using a pixel-repetition scheme. From 24 to 48 bits per pixel can be transferred, regardless of rate. Supports 1080p at rates up to 120 Hz and WQSXGA.[3]
Pixel encodings: RGB 4:4:4, YCbCr 4:4:4 (8–16 bits per component); YCbCr 4:2:2 (12 bits per component)
Audio sample rates: 32 kHz, 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, 88.2 kHz, 96 kHz, 176.4 kHz, 192 kHz.
Audio channels: up to 8.
Audio streams: any IEC61937-compliant stream, including high bitrate (lossless) streams (Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio).


My bottom line is that I tend to agree with the OP, signal quality can be improved with care which will lead to better picture quality.

Most HDMI data transmissions are encrypted. An error rate that even remotely approaches visibility to the human eye would be so high as to regularly corrupt the encryption keys too (which are updated with each frame). I believe the result would be to either cause the HDMI handshake to fail and the devices to completely drop out of sync and display an error message, or to display frames full of static noise (the result of 'decryption' using a corrupted key).

Most HDMI data transmissions are encrypted. An error rate that even remotely approaches visibility to the human eye would be so high as to regularly corrupt the encryption keys too (which are updated with each frame). I believe the result would be to either cause the HDMI handshake to fail and the devices to completely drop out of sync and display an error message, or to display frames full of static noise (the result of 'decryption' using a corrupted key).

Like I said, I do not know HDMI. I don't see how encryption helps bit error correction. In some transmission protocols there is a scrambler that allows the transition density between 1's and 0's to be balanced thereby reducing the long string of consecutive identical digits which are harder to detect at a receiver. The receiver has a de-scrambler to put the data back into the original bit pattern.

Encryption to me means something different, like you don't want another party to detect your signal. I suppose the most liberal definitions of encryption are similar to scrambling.

Bit error correction is something different than scrambling and encryption. I designed error correction circuits loooong ago and it would make perfect sense to me if HDMI included scrambling and error correction circuitry. How many bits can be corrected is another thing. I simply do not know how robust HDMI protocols are designed to be. It is not like bank wire transfers, custody transfer of oil or gasoline or inventory control networks that I have worked on where bit error rate of 1e10-17 is required.

I also have everything a few inches apart in my set up so maybe that does help. As I posted before having a good power conditioner also helps. And believe it or not I think have better power cords will help in getting the most optimal pic Q... :eek:

And yes I am very happy with my pic Q, especially lately... :)

if my DVR only has one HDMI slot, and i have an HDTV and an FP, can i use any simple HDMI splitter (1 to 2) to connect it to both with no effect on PQ? the tv and the FP will never be used at the same time, i just don't want to have to unplug the tv and plug in the FP every time i want to switch. anybody else in this situation?

As long as you buy a decent spiltter.

thanks scotty.

so that means "no" to something like this for around $18?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/312cpZZVypL._AA280_.jpg

what is the least expensive solution to this without suffering any loss in quality?

1) If your HDMI PQ picture grainy or noisy try inserting an HDMI switcher. I’ve tried a Gefen and the Psyclone. The Psyclone cleaned up the picture in a big way. While digital bits are digital bits ground and shielding are more important than ever.

2) Use the Jensen VRD-1FF Cable TV RF Isolator to prevent ground loop noise and hum in cable based systems. Available from Markertek.

3) Use the Furman PF-PRO to increase the amount of bass and reduce harshness in audio. Insert at the A/C wall socket before any other power conditioning. For me it cleans up the picture and makes for a more solid and powerful presentation. Your mileage will vary here as power factor correction and local energy storage are controversial and vary by system. I use the professional wedge version because it was a better deal (and I can stand all the lights)

Bonus section
So you don’t fall asleep watching your beautiful picture now, switch to a European type of space efficient yet better support type of seating. The surround sound quality is also superior as the rear channel path is now not physically blocked! (See how smart I am?:))
Who else is tired of furniture stores only selling large overstuffed crap?
While used in Video and bookstores for several years these chairs were generally not even for sale. Or very expensive. But now Target sells a quality black version (MSRP $279) with somewhat firm support which suits me just perfect.


So, I would run through the switcher before I run it through the Denon receiver?? Could you give me an example of the setup for the switcher? Thanks.

You're telling me that "simply separating equipment by a couple of inches can work wonders ...and offers large returns."

Seriously? I would think if something is that obvious that it would be clearly demonstrable and common knowledge to everyone here. Do you have some references of where anyone has done some blinded testing with separating equipment?

Without any testing of your own to back up your prejudice, why are you so doubtful that such separation could make a difference? It's just refuting something because you don't understand it.

Since you're not responding to the post'ers educated explanation, let's try an analogy. Would you breathe easier if someone were sleeping above you in a bunk bed or if they were lying directly on top of you (try and refrain from juvenille jokes here)?

Why is it any different with electronic components? They create heat, they put out measureable properties that can and do affect nearby electronic components. Ever hear of an electronics company tout how well shielded the audio section is separated from the video section or the analog circuitry from the digital circuitry in a preamp for example? Why bother separating them unless there was some performance related reason for doing so? Does this concept make more sense to you now?

If there is no interaction, why then does Marantz on their high end receivers, have a "Source Direct" / "Pure Direct" button? Here is what their users guide says:" The Pure Direct setting further reduces sources of noise in addition to effect of the Source Direct mode, by blocking output from the video jacks (VIDEO, S-VIDEO, COMPONENT VIDEO and HDMI) and turning the fl display off. page 42, SR8001 Users Guide.

So, I would run through the switcher before I run it through the Denon receiver?? Could you give me an example of the setup for the switcher? Thanks.
I always like to simplify but use the latest technology, but only if its well designed and mature. Marantz/Denon is coming out with a 6*2 HDMI switcher in March for $350. I have high hopes for this unit from a such a quality high-end manufacture. I think it even has a built in power supply (for once)! :)

So, will this bypass my Denon receiver or will it go from the switcher to the receiver? I have never used a switcher before.

joerod:

What PJ are you using and do you use an anamorphic lens? I have the JVC RS2 on order and was thinking about the Panamorph but was under the impression that I would end up with a Constant Height solution which, as I just learned, CARADA does not support.

So, will this bypass my Denon receiver or will it go from the switcher to the receiver? I have never used a switcher before.It could but this unit will hopefully do what is a very difficult task for HDMI: split the signal to feed two displays (or receivers or A/V controllers), both for audio and video. So feed one switcher output to the receiver (and then on to its display) and then use the second switcher output to feed another system in a close-by room. For me, its the living room and kitchen.
AVS does have an HDMI forum so I'd go there next.

A quality separate switcher allows for the receiver or A/V controller to have less of a chance of being contaminated by multiple HDMI signals when they are not being used. The controllers typically allow let one turn off some/most/all of the digital circuitry too. You can even also power off this new separate switcher if need be. Of course these are high-end principles which only a few tweaker's care about. :)