Hi All:
I watched a movie successfully last night (although for a strange reason, the conversion was drifting, and I had to do a rough reconvergence two times during the movie). Now, this evening, I turn on the projector, and I'm getting no green or blue tubes. I only get the red tube lit up well. The green and blue are 'on' and I can see the image in the rastor, but just not bright at all - not bright enough to show up on the screen. Did I somehow suddenly blow my green and blue tubes? If I look inside the case, I see the base of all tubes lit up equally. Does anyone have any ideas you could share? Might something else in the projector have failed? The projector has two outputs, and I've tried the other output and I get the same result with both outputs using two different sets of cables, so definitely not a source issue.

Any advice most welcome. Thanks in advance!!

Pull your CLM, control module.

Then pull the DPB Deflection Processor off the CLM, and clean the pins,
If you are confident in pulling U7 chip, then do the same and clean the chip pins and socket.
Don't pull this chip unless you have the correct tool,
Not a screwdriver please, you could possibly damage the chip.


Then put back in and see if the fault is gone.

I have a very similar issue, but it was with all 3 tubes were dim.

I would also check the batery voltage, should be very close to 3v.
This may be the issue with the convergence problem.



Hope this helps
Cheers
Steve

Thanks HK Steve for the info. I don't have the correct tool to pull the chip. Not sure what tool that would be - is it something I could pick up at Fry's or a hardware store or online?

For the Lithium battery voltage, I did measure the voltage and I got a reading of between 2.93 and 2.94 volts. Is that sufficiently close to 3volts to give me no issues? I have another fried control board from another Marquee, and that voltage is at 3.04volts. Would that be a better fit? Next challenge is that I've never soldered before, so am weary of taking that route....

Finally, I've heard that I should check the voltage on my P14 section next to the blue tube. This is probably a stupid question, but where exactly do I place the red and black connectors to accomplish this?

thanks!

look at the pic in the bottom.

http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip1.htm#

Athanasios

I'm a little new to this, so excuse me if these questions are a bit obvious... I have a multimeter (see attached photo) and it's not clear to me what setting to apply (my hunch got me trying 20vdc setting) or where to put the red and black cables (I think I've tried all combinations).

I removed the white leads for positions 1 and 2 on the P14 socket on the board, and tried measuring the voltage across the pins 1 and 2 on the board (the above eTech site really isn't clear on this, but this is where my hunch has lead me). I don't get any reading so far though (I get 0.00). Can someone let me know what multimeter setting I should use, and where the red and black sockets should be connected on the multimeter. Finally, am I measuring the correct part of the P14 socket?

I'm still getting a solid Red tube, but very faint green and blue.

Thanks!!

See that reddish connector that goes to the CRT socket on Etechs site? The third and 4th pins from the back edge of the set are market 'fil' or 'heater'. that's what I measure across. The 20 VDC setting is correct on your meter, see if you have over 6.5 volts.

One other thing I should mention - I'm getting a slight buzzing sound from the board that is at the back of the chassis close to the blue tube (the board is very log and covers the whole back of the chassis - the sound is just coming from section of the board at back of the blue tube though - not the neckboad, but he board actually on the back of the chassis that swings down). Not sure if that is related to the issue I'm having....

Thanks in advance for any input...!

You have to leave the white connector on, try it again

Athanasios

Thanks nashou66. I just measured the voltage again per your guidance and when I use the multimeter set to 20V on DCV part of the dial, I get a reading of -11.32. Hence, am I right in thinking that that's 20-11.32, which gives me 8.68, which places me in bad territory..

Does that mean that my blue and green tube are kaput, or just that I need a new LVPS? Biggest frustration is that I just got a new LVPS and HVPS weeks ago....

I have to say that as much as I've enjoyed the hobby of climbing up the CRT learning curve these last few years, my patience is wearing thin. I'm tempted to simply get a JVC RS1 DILA projector. I had heard that the Marquees are supposed to be so reliable, but maybe that's just if you're a technition who's able to take care of them. In my humble hands, they seem to go awry at every corner..

Dont get discouraged, its part of the fun , i just got into crt's this past christmass and have had problems as well, the 1st pj i bought i went 5 hours to go pick up , go home and nothing! then i got a great deal on another 8000 on ebay, took a chance and 450 bucks for it i got a great set. had it calibrated this march by Craig Roundsm then the hdm went,not craigs fault it just happend, but thak god i had the first set , pulled the hdm and she was up and running! now i got another great deal i couldnt pass up ! so i'll have three sets. And i'm thinking of blending! Also a few crt guys switched tot he RS-1 and and are already back to crt. its still the best !
Just do alot of reading on these forums about problems with PJ's like yours and read up on it. When a similar problem happens it will much easier to trouble shoot. I have no previous experiance with crt,s i had a digital and made the switch and love my decision. so just hang in there! and yes looks like your LVPS is putting out to much . but tubes are cheap and i have two sets that are in pretty good shape except for the greens maybe a 7-8 .

I think you actually have the 11 volt reading try switching the leads aroundht ,at is put red where black was on the p-14 pins , i remebr getting the same nuber but with a negative in front one of the ways .

good luck

athanasios

The black lead of your multimeter should go to the "COM" position. The red lead should go to the V()mA position. NEITHER should go to the 10ADC position. You are lucky that you didn't damage your meter or projector.

Scott

the question is, it is reasonable to buy a 10 year old CRT projector and expect everything to be hunky-dory? the machines need to be checked out and serviced by a tech. who will at least address all the known issues and factory service bulletins. Once that is done, the set will be good for another 10 years.
For the folks who aren't familiar with a multi-meter, the DIY route for CRT might not be the best approcah. This P14 issue has been discussed here hundreds of times, it's unfortunate to see people still losing tubes over it. :(

Guys, thanks for the extra input. I'm still getting the reading of -11.33 when I check the voltage using my multimeter set to 20v, so I'm guessing that's a reading of 8.67 which puts me out of the range required..

Draganm, you may be correct in that maybe I should have originally taken the digital route, although I feel I'm pretty adventurous and smart, and a fast learner if what I need to know is documented well. I did buy my original 8500 from Projection Systems for $4k about three years ago, and that went kaput, loosing a tube and eventually something else really fried it. Most recently I acquired another 8500 on the cheap, but within the last two months I got a new HVPS and LVPS from the most reputable of sources. Hence, I felt that I should have had some confidence of success.

I think there is a great latent need for one of the CRT gurus to come up with instructions or even a video of how to set up a CRT projector and how to check for the most common issues, on a per-projector basis. I just paid $40 for the DVD on how to set up a Sony 1292 (http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_3rdparty_products.shtm) and I found it very useful, even though my projector is different. I'd probably pay $100 or so for very detailed specific instructions and guidelines on how to set up my Marquee (instructions that actually make sense to somehow who is smart but not an engineer), and I'm sure theres loads of other folks who would too. It would have already saved me hundreds when I factor in the parts and 'care and feeding' I've needed to keep this 8500 going.

If you now have your meter leads in the two positions other than the 10ADC one and it is reading -11.33V, which is 11.33VDC, Whoa, Nellie! That's way too much for the filament voltage. Check your meter on a good 9V battery and make sure it's reading right.

Scott

Guys, thanks for the extra input. I'm still getting the reading of -11.33 when I check the voltage using my multimeter set to 20v, so I'm guessing that's a reading of 8.67 which puts me out of the range required.. there's no subtraction, it's a direct reading. Like scott suggested check it against a 9 volt battery and make sure it's reading right. For some stupid reason the stock (un-modified circuit) is capable of 2v to 12V adjustment so if it's really reading 11V your B + G tubes are likely fried. Luckilly, decent used tubes for a marquee are not impossible to find. Anastasios (Nashou) has some and if you need to mod your LVPS you can send it to Curt.


Draganm, you may be correct in that maybe I should have originally taken the digital route, although I feel I'm pretty adventurous and smart, and a fast learner if what I need to know is documented well. I did buy my original 8500 from Projection Systems for $4k about three years ago, and that went kaput, loosing a tube and eventually something else really fried it. Most recently I acquired another 8500 on the cheap, but within the last two months I got a new HVPS and LVPS from the most reputable of sources. Hence, I felt that I should have had some confidence of success. I would never suggest a digital projector. :) If you bought from Eric L's company in WI then that is a shame. they really gave this hobby a black eye and sold a lot of projectors that were not worth half of what people paid at the time. I have read a few stories on AVS over the years where people had repeated problems with a Marquee and they baffle me. I'm not talking little video glitches but serious, sequential failures . I think it's really just cases of old machines that were never serviced and re-sold in an as-is state either on E-bay or by greedy people who flipped them for a buck. It's a shame because these machines can be so solid and dependable. I hooked-up a friend of mine with an 8500 4 years ago with 40k on the clock and it's still running perfectly.

I think there is a great latent need for one of the CRT gurus to come up with instructions or even a video of how to set up a CRT projector and how to check for the most common issues, on a per-projector basis. I just paid $40 for the DVD on how to set up a Sony 1292 (http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_3rdparty_products.shtm) and I found it very useful, even though my projector is different. I'd probably pay $100 or so for very detailed specific instructions and guidelines on how to set up my Marquee (instructions that actually make sense to somehow who is smart but not an engineer), and I'm sure theres loads of other folks who would too. It would have already saved me hundreds when I factor in the parts and 'care and feeding' I've needed to keep this 8500 going.
A lot of the info is on Curt's web-site. For the Marquee, most of the issues are covered in the factory tech. bulletins. Other things like De-oxidizing all the contacs and chips on the control board simply require a steady hand and the right tools. Other fixes like like the P14 voltage were created by people on this board and can be found in the archives. I would hate to be the one to write it all up and film it to a DVD, not even for a 100 bucks times 10 :)

Quote-
One other thing I should mention - I'm getting a slight buzzing sound from the board that is at the back of the chassis close to the blue tube
-

Yes this buzzing is normal, it is the vertical board.
You can get it to sing when using certain resolutions :p




Cheers
Steve