How the heck do I do this?? A few year Terry told me about this and I never saved the details. At least not that I can find.

Here is the procedure for Bacro and Marquee under "Tube/Lens Related" heading that might help.

http://www.curtpalme.com/Advanced_Procedures.shtm

Cheers,
Frank

Hello Ted,

I just made it twice !

I'm gonna post a step by step procedure with pictures in here tonight. Fortunatly, Terry helped me a bit on this recently as well and I will sumarize all the job.

John

Hi John,

Thanks and I look forward to see what you've done! Looking for the model and contact info to get the correct C-element. Anyone have that?

Thanks again all.

Just call VDC and tell them you want a Marquee 9" G CElement. It's the only one they have so you don't have to worry about getting the wrong one.

Terry

Here we are today with a new G90 step by step procedure : the sony stock green C element replacement with a Marquee 9" 'G' one to improve the color purity of the G90.
More information about green color target purity available in this post : http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=693126

Since I just made this on my two G90 unit, I took some pictures of the task been done and post in here to share this information with everyone. Thanks to Tim Martin that has provided me the two Marquee CElements ;)

Please note that Terry help me with some explanation on the critical part of this job (carefully remove the rubber bellows from the Marque recovered Green CElement).
So thanks to him !

Let's Go :

1- Unscrew the four mounting screws of the LC_housing with proper tubular key :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step1.jpg

2- Open the G90 top cover and unscrew the four Green CG block fixation screws from chassis :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step2.jpg

3- 180° twist CG on back of the unit - remove white and red flat stripes wires from C board - then disconnect C board from green tube pins :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step3.jpg

4- Disconnect all the coils incoming connectors, including DY ground lead :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step4.jpg

5- Locate and pull-up the green HV lead rubber cap from the HV splitter located between green and blue tubes :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step5.jpg

Next post to follow-on…

6- Press downward then 90° rotate the selected green HV lead wire to unplug it from splitter :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step6.jpg

7- Now, remove the green lens by unscrewing its four screws (starting from bottom while holding lens with hand) - Place it in a CLEAN area:
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step7.jpg

8- Gently remove the green tube + LC housing from the unit and place the assembly facing down on a flat bench :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step8.jpg

9- Remove glycol tank screw :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step9.jpg

10- Using a 50ml syringue, start to suck glycol from the tank 50ml at one time (250ml total) :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step10.jpg
Tilt the LC housing assembly between each 50ml retreival to let air bubble to move from the tank to the tube area. Restart glycol retreival process 5 times.

Next post to follow-on…

11- Store the retreived glycol in a CLEAN glass container - close it at each step to avoid dust entry :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step11.jpg

12- Replace the glycol tank's screw back in place and turn the assembly upside down like this (use proper Sony carton items to ease this) :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step12.jpg
You can easely see that there is Air inside below the CElement that can avoid glycol spillout when we'll remove the CElement from the LC housing :D

13- Retreive the Marquee C element and start to remove the remaining rubber from CElement by cutting the bellows behind the CElement and remove from the housing (use Exacto sharp blade or equivalent) :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step13.jpg

14- A view of the CElement with main part of the rubber removed :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step14.jpg

15- With the blade, finish to remove the remaining glued rubber :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step15.jpg

Next post to follow-on…

16- Finally make the border of the CElement as clean and flat as possible from rubber parts :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step16.jpg
Ensure that the convex part of the new CElement is completely clean from any dust !

17- Back on LC housing assembly - the annular bezel that has 4 screws in it. Remove the 4 screws:
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step17.jpg

18- Remove the annular bezel:
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step18.jpg

19- With a small flat screw driver, use the four small holes to pull-up the sony CElement from the LC housing (do it in circular manner). Take care of the annular rubber joint that may remain attached to the CElement during pull-out ! :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step19.jpg

20- Here is a comparison view of the Sony stock and new Marquee green color :
http://johnhwman.free.fr/G90/C_Element/Step20.jpg

After checking that the 3mm thick annular rubber joint is well in place, place the new Marquee CElement immediatly on LC housing and reattach the annular bezel with its 4 screws. Screw-it 1 turn at a time in circular manner. Ensure that these are well secured.

Once made, tilt the tube + LC housing assembly horizontaly and leave it in this position for 12 hours so this can let the glycol spill-out drops from the CElement joint to fall off on the bench.

Then, after checking that all is okay, you can filling the glycol back in the LC housing tank (tilt the assembly periodically so the air bubbles all comes from the tube area to the tank). Re-assemble the tube and LC housing back in the unit, reattach the lens, reconnect all the coils wires and place CG element back in its place. Close the unit.

That's all.

Enjoy the better color of the G90 !

John

P.S. Next time is G90 toasted tube replacement with new bare tube ;) ;)

Hmmm, that green tube looks familiar..;)

Yes Curt,

It was yours :D I'm gonna replace it with a bare P19LUG 'HR' from Eisemann this week ;)

John

Does that mean you got the CPU board going? Last I read you were still going to send it to Sony in California...

Holy Smokes!!!

I wonder if it's easier to simply remove the PJ from the ceiling and stand upright??

Do so at your own risk. Spill any glycol into the set and you risk losing it... forever.

Wow. That risky, eh?

Does that mean you got the CPU board going? Last I read you were still going to send it to Sony in California... Yes, the YA board was repaired in Sony California repair service. They changed IC431(Sony G90 made specific IC) for $1690 charges w/o shipping :mad:
John

I wonder if it's easier to simply remove the PJ from the ceiling and stand upright?? It's easier to remove the lens, then the green tube + LC housing from the unit still on the ceiling ;)

Nice work as always John!

Kal

Gotta love these guys. My PA board is being delived to them today. It'll only be $700 in my case (assuming that they can fix it), so I suppose I should feel lucky. I still feel raped.

What was the turn around time in your case, John?


Yes, the YA board was repaired in Sony California repair service. They changed IC431(Sony G90 made specific IC) for $1690 charges w/o shipping :mad:
John

Nice work as always John!Thanks kal :)

Gotta love these guys... I still feel raped.Me too :mad: This is the first CRT failure I can't solve myself and I paid a lot for it :(
What was the turn around time in your case, John?Three weeks approx.

Three weeks approx.

Sheesh... I guess I'd better get another projector set up! Hahahah

Thanks for the info John.

-Mark

If you do replace the c-element with the projector off the ceiling, I found placing a small 6" level across the old c- element before removing it (rotating to check all angles) gets the glycol level even so when you remove the element it will not spill or drip. The level across the c-element will not touch the element surface because it is concave. I had a couple friends hold it up and steady on the back handles extended to keep it level.
I had replaced my green c-element before installing it on the ceiling and it went very smoothly.

John, your G90 appears to be missing a brown "bag" that attaches around the neckboard/astig magnet area?

I think it's some kind of EM shield.

Do you know what I mean?

Holy Smokes!!!

I wonder if it's easier to simply remove the PJ from the ceiling and stand upright??Thats how Terry & I swapped out my green c-element... I kept it pointed up and level while he did the switch. No tube removal. No draining.

If you do replace the c-element with the projector off the ceiling, I found placing a small 6" level across the old c- element before removing it (rotating to check all angles) gets the glycol level even so when you remove the element it will not spill or drip. The level across the c-element will not touch the element surface because it is concave. I had a couple friends hold it up and steady on the back handles extended to keep it level. Hello Alan, This a quite good idea but do require extra attention to what you are doing ;) Also this requires two to three people to do it correctly :cool:
I was doing this way (with glycol draining) because I've also replaced the tube itself later-on (and then, you need to remove a part of the glycol volume to do so ;) ).

John, your G90 appears to be missing a brown "bag" that attaches around the neckboard/astig magnet area? I think it's some kind of EM shield. Do you know what I mean? Hi Mark, yes, those brown bags are only present in G90E (Europe) or G90M (general) units but not on G90U (USA/JAPAN) units. These are for CE compliancy (EMI reduction to comply EMC standard).

John

John, your like the masked magician from "magic secrets revealed" :D

Thank you for taking the time to provide a photo journal of your 'advanced' Sony procedures, you are creating an invaluable resource

Two thumbs up. Thanks

Some have removed that rubber gasket on the new c-element and others have not. Both camps seem pleased. Is there a better way to go? Seems like there should be a definitive way.

Anyone care to comment on who makes the highest quality CRT coolant. Last time I ordered some was from Ashland Chemicals and I was not satisfied. I want crystal clear fluid and that wasn't it. Not even close :rolleyes:

Chip

They changed IC431(Sony G90 made specific IC)

John,

Can IC431 be ordered seperately, or must Sony do the swap?

John,

Can IC431 be ordered seperately, or must Sony do the swap?
Apparently not.....thats the ($1690) problem. :eek:

Any thoughts on that C-element gasket removal? To remove or not to remove...

Now that I'm down to doing the task, my new C-element has no gasket at all... I'm hoping that's just a convenience and not a bad thing.

Task complete. Took 27 minutes from removal from ceiling to re-install on ceiling. Couldn't have been easier, really.

John's pictures were super helpful, even though I didn't go that exact route. Terry, you were a real help and encouragement. Thank you again so very much for the details of the element replacement. Alan, thank you also for letting me know an average guy like me could do this.

Great, enjoy. Remember you now have a different G Primary color so you will have to do your grey scale again.

Terry

Yessir. Chris Collins will be handling that shortly. Thanks again.

That is great news. You will enjoy the improvement, well worth the effort. Please keep us posted how it all progresses.

FYI:

This procedure can now also be found here:
http://www.curtpalme.com/Sony_G90_C_Element_Change1.shtm

I've added some extra introductory info with colorimeter readings and analysis info provided by other forum members.

Kal

Thanks for storing this procedure on Curt's site ;)

Next coming one is Sony G90 bare tube replacement step by step procedure :)

John

Just a quick side question regarding G90 tweaks... John, do you think a fan mod can be accomplished with the G90 hanging?

Thanks. Now back to our regularly scheduled program.

Yes, I think so Ted,

Since the rear fan's could be easely removed from the unit with their black holder enclosure and can be updated on a desk.

For the front fan, it is almost the same since most of the hand work is done on the PA/PD front aluminium plate...

John

When I had to replace my front fan due to a bad SilenX fan, I did it while ceiling mounted. It was as easy as when I did it on the floor. Well, John's step by step illustrations made the whole process VERY easy. I don't think I would have attempted it by myself if it were not for John's instructions making it THAT EASY and giving me the confidence.

THANKS JOHN!

Mike