First off, thanks to all who helped me straighten my red grid on the face of the tube. Now i have few other problems.

1) Red grid dips down on left side of screen(last grid squares mostly the top half). Floor mounted, and its not off the face of the tube at least 5 mm away, and it doesnt matter if i make the size small or big or if i shift the phase to get that part of grid to center of tube.

2) green right side , grid is not staight verticaly on last set of grid squares. went into green convergance service menu and sort of staightend it out its not too bad before it had an outward bow. pin cusion did not fix. This side i'd like to get nice and straight since its on the side that will be blended.

Athanasios

Just use your geometry controls to get the grid as close as possible to ideal, then use your green convergence to nail it down. Once happy with green, you can use guided convergence to match up your red (and blue)

Did you make sure to centre your rasters first with the focus yoke? then make sure to adjust toe-in of the red and blue tubes too.

And your projector would be what exactly?

he's using marquee's

Gino, i didnt center rasters with the focus yolk. One reason is when i lower contrast and turn up brightness to see the raster its not there? weird? the only thing I can think of is the raster is larger Than the tube? is this possible? could i display an image and just use this to center ? also i did the green convergance in the set up menu and i still cant get that 3-4 grid lines to move up. ots liek there is no more adjustment left in the convergance. maybe i need to do a resize of the red grid in the service menu? increase it so that i'll have to lower the red into position? i'll go take a pic and post it, Be right back.

Athanasios

See left top corners

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/DSCF1672.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/DSCF1673.jpg

And a pic of the tube through the lens, notice the bottom left of the all red image how it dips up, cant get it square? why?

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/DSCF1675.jpg

Athanasios

Looks like you've run out of range, perhaps try centering the red raster again (use the crosshatch if you say you can't see the raster), then adjust your toe-in, and see if you can get that corner converged.

I suspect you might be asking too much of your convergence adjustments, try and nail in the physical setup/positioning first

Still cant get it straightend. Mike parker help!

Athanasios

Maybe that part of the raster is just unstable?

So your rasters are centred using the focus yoke? (display the crosshatch to help you see it) Then toe-in the red and blue tubes so they are centred to green. If you've already done this and still no good, maybe something wrong with your convergence board.

I had the exact same problem you're having with my blue tube when I first had my 8500. My mechanical setup wasn't too good and so I was asking too much of the convergence. Once I had rasters centred and toed-in correctly, scan yokes leveled, I only needed minor convergence adjustments and was able to fix the problem.

Well I'll try from scratch after today, i have a long shift here at my business. I'll do a compleat initionalzation along with the zeroing of the green convergance and see how it goes.

Athanasios

I haven't seen this on MArquees before, but the fact that the red 'fades' out on the top left corner indicates that it's off the tube a bit. Pull the width in a bit so the red is completely on the screen. Try using interpolated convergence instead of guided. If it's still there, try swapping the red convergence connector with the blue, and I'll bet the hook changes to the blue.

If so, I'd suspect a bad convergence board or CLM.

Curt,
It's not off the tube, its at least 10 mm away. Even if i shrink it down to the smallest grid size possible it still has this pattern dip. What coulkd it be?

Athanasios

Your pix above shows that the red image is off the edge of the lens, it fades out. It might not be quite off the tube, but is out of range of the lens anyways.

I answered what I thought the problem was in my last post..:)

Ok I didnt see the part where you said to change the convergance conector. I'll try that and see if it moves to the blue. If it does what does that mean?

Your pix above shows that the red image is off the edge of the lens, it fades out. It might not be quite off the tube, but is out of range of the lens anyways.

The Other grids are in the exact same place on the face of the tube and same position relative to the lens, so i dont think it is out of the range of the lens, my other marquee has the grid go to all edges with in 2mm and i dont get any dips or distorted grid line near the edges. I think it might be what gino said some kind of magnetic problem since i havtn done any on this machine yet. It is a refrence 8 and has only 42 hours total on the set. the tubes have a vdc sticker on them ,so i'm not sure if there rebuilds or not. maybe the red tube is a bad one and can get that corner converged? is this a possability?

Anyhow when i get home i'll try to swap connectors and see if it moves to the blue, this way i can narrow it down to the convergance board , it would be the horizontal board right? i'm just getting frustrated :mad:

Athanasios

Ok Just came home for i bit to let the dog out, went to the theater and swaped out the red to blue on the convergance board on the back of the projector, sure enough Curt you were right. The weird dip moved to the blue tube. What is it? is there something wrong with the convergance board? I knew it wasnt the magnetics cause it is almost perfectly centerd(the grids) with out using alot of adjustment in the detailed set up guide. I have anohter back plane from another marquee buts an 8000 not 8500, should i swap it out and see what happens? Or is there something else like a bad resistor or something that can be changed?

Athansios

IT's either the convergence board or the CLM. I can repair either or test it in a working set her for you.

Sorry, I don't give out component information, that's how I make my living..:)

I've had a similiar problem with my 8500 since the day I got it. But my issue is the blue lifts up slightly off grid along the left side, getting worse towards the top of the screen. Here's a close up of the top left. If it looks a little out of focus, that's just my unsteady hand holding the digital camera.

http://www.samos.org/Theater/EH8500-blue-problem.jpg

The rest of the grid is very square and converged nicely. Nobody but me ever notices this anyway, but it still annoys me that I haven't been able to fix this issue.

Does this also look like either a problem with the convergence board or the CLM?

Thanks!

-Carl

Well I Finaly got around to swaping out my convergance board and the problem is still there. So it must be the CLM. I dont have a spare to test it with since i messed it up trying to do the mods mike parker has done to the clm on another thread. Mike did you get my clm board? No hurry just curious if you got to look at it.

Carl did you ever solve your dip on the blue? I might try to swap out the CLM from my working unit. But first i'll try to clean up some contacts on the clm that might be causing the dip.

I'l report back with my results.

Athanasios

Still cant get it straightend. Mike parker help!

Athanasios

Hello

Show me a picture with all convergence nulled, green too.

BTW, your red IS off the tube face. You can see in your first pix that the corner doesn't get covered by the red tube/test grid.. It's being clipped either by the lens or the tube edge.

Well i put in an older CLM from my current running 8000 and it the dip is gone. So it was the CLM. Mike parker has my spare but i want to get this one fixed since its a newer version and this projector is a Marquee Reference 8. Tim or curt can you fix it?

Athanasios

BTW, your red IS off the tube face. You can see in your first pix that the corner doesn't get covered by the red tube/test grid.. It's being clipped either by the lens or the tube edge.

Curt its not off the tube face even if i make the grid smaller it still will have that dip. Also the one pic i took from an angle and not directly into the tube so it might look that way to you.

Athanasios

Well i put in an older CLM from my current running 8000 and it the dip is gone. So it was the CLM. Mike parker has my spare but i want to get this one fixed since its a newer version and this projector is a Marquee Reference 8. Tim or curt can you fix it?

Athanasios

Hello

I can offer you another used CLM, e.mail me if interested.

Hello

I can offer you another used CLM, e.mail me if interested.

If it is the same date or newer. Mine is a 50-2006-02P ISS.1 And the DPB is 50-2016-05P ISS.1
Also how much?

But can it be fixed?

Curt?

Athanasios

If it is the same date or newer. Mine is a 50-2006-02P ISS.1 And the DPB is 50-2016-05P ISS.1
Also how much?

But can it be fixed?

Curt?

Athanasios

Hello

Those are ancient 8000 part numbers, I have newer at $595. CLMs are tough to fix, very complex and mostly surface mount devices.

Just to make sure, are you running that CLM in a newer 8110 or 8500? If so, that's your problem, the older CLMs have an issue in newer sets.

no it came with the refrence 8? maybe it was changed? but the clm i put in to verify was out of a 8000 that is older and it worked fine?

Athanasios

no it came with the refrence 8? maybe it was changed? but the clm i put in to verify was out of a 8000 that is older and it worked fine?

Athanasios

Hello

What are the firmware levels of the suspect board; U35 on the CLM and U7 on the DPB?

Hello

What are the firmware levels of the suspect board; U35 on the CLM and U7 on the DPB?

I'll check when i get home from work at 11pm

Athanasios

U35 V2.0 and U7 D4.70 i think its a D the sticker is scratched a bit.

However i got a new board from a 8500 50-2036-3P that is a lot newer for 120 shipped and that fixed the problem. so if i stack or blend should i look for a newer board like this one?

Athanasips

Carl did you ever solve your dip on the blue? I might try to swap out the CLM from my working unit. But first i'll try to clean up some contacts on the clm that might be causing the dip.

I'l report back with my results.

Athanasios

I never got around to debugging mine any further due to a tragic family event (I lost my brother) that has consumed me for the past couple months.

But it looks like you determined your problem was the CLM. I'll have to get back to diagnosing mine to see if it's the same issue.

-Carl

Sorry about your loss, my condolances.

Yes if you have another CLM try it. I was gong to go one step further and see if it was juts the DP bpoard on the clm but never got to it. Maybe some day.

Athanasios

Well went to do a quick over under stack now that the dip was gone but....its back!!! havnt had time to investigate it further. any one else? what can it be. New hdm,clm,and convergance boards and it still is there. also it moves to the blue tube when cables are switched.

Athanasios

Well I finally got rid of the dip on the red grid. Gino and some others were right from the start. Magnetics off.My Red Scan yoke was not centered. When I first got the PJ i noticed the red grid not centered so i straightened it, however i never cleared the projector form the start. So Tim Martin looked at my grids after the recall was reset and the red was skewed again! That is when it hit me i did not clear any of the memories i was setting up the projector for, and assumed the grid was off when it was not ! If would have just cleared the memories at first i would have been fine. So I re aligned the scan yoke on the red and the dip is gone due to less strain on the scan yoke. so a lesson to all new bees. Reset the PJ !! and start from scratch.

However the strange thing is is earlier when i swapped all the connectors from red to blue the dip went to the blue even thouhg the scan yoke was fine on the blue.

Athanasios

I've spent time over the past few days doing a complete initialization, magnetic, mechanical and electronic setup of my 8500.

Last night before heading out for dinner, I got through step 17 in Bill Blue's Marquee Magnetics Setup 101 (Dynamic Focus). That absolutely perfect green grid looked so good I nearly cried. I used a large, lightweight T-square to ensure every vertical line is perfectly vertical, and every horizontal line is perfectly horizontal. I also used a ruler to ensure the width and height of every box is exactly the same, and the grid is perfectly centered on the screen as well. I could already tell that my 8500 was going to look even better than it did before, and I was confident my blue-lifting problem was going to be solved as well, just based on where the blue grid was already.

After dinner last night I had a small amount of time to do a quick convergence of red and blue. Both were easily matched onto the green grid with no problems of any kind, including the blue lifting problem it had before. When I reset the projector, I noticed the blue grid was so far to one side, which explains the problems I had getting it properly converged. Now all 3 grids are centered on their tube faces and on the screen.

I switched over to Discovery Channel HD to take a quick peek before heading to bed. There was a program on about locusts, and it was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. I couldn't believe the improvement in the picture, and I still have a bit of tweaking to do, as well as a full calibration with i1d2/HCFR.

My girlfriend thinks I'm insane for spending as much time as I have on this, but I am so glad I did. And she'll actually appreciate it while we're watching movies, even if she won't admit it. She did finally admit the picture on my Pro-730HD really does look amazing now. :)

Once I have the 8500 fulled calibrated, I'll post some screen shots showing off the geometry and image quality.

And if there's anyone who lives around Austin, TX with a Marquee in need of help or calibration, I'll be glad to lend a hand or provide advice.

-Carl

Awesome Carl!!!! glad you got it working!!!!!

All we need is a bit of patience and time, time being the hardest for me ! ;)

carl you should go check out curts site lots of nice things on the marquees there.

Athanasios

I bought my 8500 from Curt, and I agree, he's got some great stuff on his site. And he's a great guy as well.

-Carl