So I just finished installing my projector screen and now i need to do the actual source eqmt. Like a noob, I didn't plan enough.

I need to wire up my pj/dvdplayer/speakers. My walls are already finished and I can't go tearing apart the dry wall.

So can anyone give me a rundown on how to run my cables through the wall, over the ceiling to my pj. I guess i could just leave them visible but really... who wants that.

Thanks in advance.

So I just finished installing my projector screen and now i need to do the actual source eqmt. Like a noob, I didn't plan enough.

I need to wire up my pj/dvdplayer/speakers. My walls are already finished and I can't go tearing apart the dry wall.

So can anyone give me a rundown on how to run my cables through the wall, over the ceiling to my pj. I guess i could just leave them visible but really... who wants that.

Thanks in advance.


Not a lot of good options outside cutting sheet rock. There are paintable flat wires for speakers but if you need HDMI and or Coax cables, under carpet or hiding behind base/crown moldings would be your only options. I just hired a company (Wires Are Ugly) who specialize in wire runs in finished rooms. They charge a flat fee$150 per run regardless and that includes the wire (unless you have special requirements). Unfortunately, they only work in my area (Sacramento Ca.). It is a cut and patch sheet rock situation but they are very good at it so the repairs are invisible on standard textured walls.

Good Luck

Do you have any kind of access behind the wall in question? I just did a run for my PJ in our ceiling a few weeks ago. We live in a four level split and our laundry room is unfinished. I was able to use my cable snake to up into the ceiling by following some venting. I then just cut a hole in the ceiling and finished it up from there.

If I hadn't been able to do that I might have gotten someone else to do it. I didn't want to mess with patching dry wall.

Well the room behind the wall is the garage, so I suppose i could drill a hole straight through to pass the cable through to the garage and up to the cieling.

Well the room behind the wall is the garage, so I suppose i could drill a hole straight through to pass the cable through to the garage and up to the cieling.

Don't do it. The wall between the garage and the house is built according to the fire spread /noxious fumes building codes in place when your house was built. Punching holes in the drywall is not a good idea.

Just learn how to cut and patch holes on the inside walls. I didn't think I was going to do FP until after the walls were up.

Go to HD/L and look through some of the wiring books. They will have some pictures showing how the surgery is performed.

Don't do it. The wall between the garage and the house is built according to the fire spread /noxious fumes building codes in place when your house was built. Punching holes in the drywall is not a good idea.

Just learn how to cut and patch holes on the inside walls. I didn't think I was going to do FP until after the walls were up.

Go to HD/L and look through some of the wiring books. They will have some pictures showing how the surgery is performed.

Well thing is, this isn't my house, i still live with my mother (i'm 18) and I don't want to be ripping apart the walls not knowing what im doing and if i make a mistake im screwed.

So i guess the only other options left is to hide my speakers and wires when im not watching anything :(

Edit:

On second thought... Maybe i can do this.

All i have to run is an HDMI cable from the PJ to the dvdplayer. From what i've read i have to drill a hole in the wall on the inside and have somone in the cieling guide it to the other side of the wall where the player is. Let me know if i have the basics down right.

On second thought... Maybe i can do this.

All i have to run is an HDMI cable from the PJ to the dvdplayer. From what i've read i have to drill a hole in the wall on the inside and have somone in the cieling guide it to the other side of the wall where the player is. Let me know if i have the basics down right.

Ok why didn't you tell us you have access to the attic?

First you need to know one trick. Getting everything located up in the ceiling is critical. Take a white wire coat hanger. Cut off the hanger bit part and bend the rest into a straight piece. Now lets say you have a wall that you want to run a wire down. Figure out where the studs in the wall are. ($20 stud detector)

Then in between two studs, in the location you want, drill a really small hole (1/8 inch or smaller) in the ceiling piece of drywall. Stick the piece of white wire up through the hole so that it sticks up into the attic a couple of feet. Now go up into the attic and locate the piece of white wire. Then pushing the insulation aside to the side of the wire you will spot the top plate for the wall (2x4 on the flat side) sitting below the ceiling joists.

Drill a 1 inch hole in the top plate. take a string and attach a weight and see if you can lower it all the way to the floor level below. If it stops mid way, you have cross bracing in the wall and all bets for a hole less surgery are over. If it is an interior wall chances are you will have a clean shot.

Now cut a hole in the wall for a plate where you will put a wall plate for passing the HDMI cable through. Reach in and grab the string. Tie the HDMI cable. and feed it into the wall hole. Go back up the attic and start pulling. Now you should have a bunch up cable up in the attic and the other end down at the dvd player.

Use the same wire and stick it up from below where you need it to come down to the projector. Go up in the attic and see if this spot will work (maybe you want to do this first, before cutting a hole in the wall) depends how daring you are.

If it will work, drill the required hole and pass the cable down.

As for those small holes for the wire guides just get some white spackling compound and with your finger put a little dab in the holes. If you want you can paint the little dabs to match the ceiling. If you are lucky the ceiling is white and the white spackling is close enough for Mom.

Now one classic mistake that you need to be aware is not stepping on the joists and putting a foot through the ceiling so be careful. If you have some scraps of wood you can create some places to stand. Another problem may be the kind of insulation and your ability to move it around a bit while you cut the required holes and pull in the cable. The worst problem is summer heat. You may need to do this in the early am.

Wow, great write up, I should'nt have a problem now. THANKS!

My setup is a bit different from what u described as the PJ wont be cieling mounted; it will be shelf mounted so i'll just do the string pull thing on to bring the cable up the back wall, over the cieling, and down the front wall. Correct?

Thanks again.

Good luck.

Come back and tell us your experience. DIY is a lifelong learning experience.

Well, looks like the studs in my wall are metal. So I don't thing I can mount my projector on it without really cutting a gaping hole in the drywall, which I won't do.

Gah, there goes the whole project. Thanks for the help though.

Well, looks like the studs in my wall are metal. So I don't thing I can mount my projector on it without really cutting a gaping hole in the drywall, which I won't do.

Gah, there goes the whole project. Thanks for the help though.


If Mom is ok with this look, here is a work around:

Cut a 3/4 inch x 24 inch x 8 ft piece of plywood (or a little shorter to fit between the ceiling and the base moulding) and screw to the wall with about 50 drywall screws. Be sure to hit at least one of the metal studs with 8-10 of the screws.

Then paint it the same color as the wall. That thing won't go anywhere. Fasten your projector mount to the plywood. When you are done with this application, (moving out to your first pad) unscrew the Plywood and patch the holes and paint.

To do that I'm gonna have to open up the wall won't I?

Unless you mean to put the wood on the outside of the wall (making it visible) in which case my mom (nor me for that matter) wouldn't agree to have a giant piece of plywood on the wall.


Or unless i have it all wrong and it IS possible to use this mount on metal studs, dunno.

This is the mount i have: http://www.mountdirect.com/photos/PMS_W-2.jpg

So I've been doing some research. Apparently people use these things called 'toggle bolts' in these situations.

Would that work? How would I go about using those.

Yes outside of the wall but painted to match.

On that mount. If you hit the metal stud with the two centered holes and use toggle bolts it should work. How heavy is your projector?

You could put up the mount. Put 2-3x the weight of the projector on the bracket and leave it for a week. If it's still tight after a week, hang the projector.

My Projector weight about 8lbs, I've heard of people mounting plasma tvs using this method so i thought be fine, I think.

So to use these toggle bolts i just drill a hole straight through the metal and put in the bolt, right?
Thanks. :)

Go with BigMouth's advice... Or you can be the orthopedic surgeon (thanks Jeff!) that I am and tear the whole wall down. What the heck, it's a kick and you get to learn more stuff.

So to use these toggle bolts i just drill a hole straight through the metal and put in the bolt, right?
Thanks. :)

Right you want to make sure that you actually go through the metal and that the toggle spreads out and grabs the metal.

If you are unfamiliar with what a metal stud looks like take a trip to HD and take a look.

You want to be really sure where the metal stud is, and a stud finder would really help.

I think i have an idea of what a metal stud looks like. Sort of like |__| from the top.
BTW, what size bolts do u recommend.

Sorry for all the questions, I just like to be sure of things :P.

I think i have an idea of what a metal stud looks like. Sort of like |__| from the top.
BTW, what size bolts do u recommend.


First the drywall is attached to the left or right side of your l__l . so it's the smallest dimension of the channel That's why you need to know exactly where it is.


I think I would go with these because you can control the orientation of the flanges behind the wall: (Box of six I think)

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100341860&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_mmc=1hd.com2froogle-_-product_feed-_-D25X-_-100341860

Video here of how to use:

http://www.grabbarspecialists.com/toggler.php