Wow, Micheal - Simply WOW!!!!!

I bet Tom is weeping that yet another NoVA theatre is nearing completion. Where is Tom?

Now you gotta tell me about the carpet, is it Mohawk, 228027, L024?

Michael,

Looking good. Keep it going. Can't wait to come back over and watch that first movie, maybe "The Pulse" or U571.

BillMac

congrats on a job very well done. im now looking into the fabricamate system for myself as it seems to be very flexible if i need to re-tension it in the future. let me ask you.... if someone (children) were to go and touch these panels, how deep do you think it can be pushed into the oc703 and would that need to be re-tensioned if it were to happen? why did you choose this system over just stapling the fabric in place?

congrats on a job very well done. im now looking into the fabricamate system for myself as it seems to be very flexible if i need to re-tension it in the future. let me ask you.... if someone (children) were to go and touch these panels, how deep do you think it can be pushed into the oc703 and would that need to be re-tensioned if it were to happen? why did you choose this system over just stapling the fabric in place?

Bill can tell you better about how the system holds up with kids. I think he just retensions the fabric after the kids played in the room. That is not hard to do.

Why the track? Mostly because I thought it would be easier that firring, stapling and adding yet more molding. I would to have done a bunch of things in a different order.

Willingness to share, and someone to push the deal along. I had started my first theater, but had never actually been in a home theater. I had corresponded with Mark (BritInVA), Bill, and with Biggy about visiting their setups, and finally did. It's fun to visit other people's setups and talk theater. These have been one of the most important parts of my education.

Build a community of builders. Try to host a meet at someone's theater, OR set something up for happy hour, then get to know everyone before you have them over. By all means, build a community and don't be afraid to ask for help, for a visit, etc. People are way more likely to help someone that they know.

CJ

CJ, I was partially joking, thinking one of my local guys might read this. :) We do have an active group here. We met originally here on AVS and have been gathering at each others places for about 9 years now (wow, time is flying). Great group of folks and I second your encouragement for everyone to create a local community. It is tons of fun and very educational. But I'm still going to rib all these guys for being scarce when the hammers start swinging. :p

Michael, the material looks awesome!

AWESOME!

occasional loud swearword.

Yeah, I think the LOGANESS is getting tired of more than the occaisonal swearword.

Thanks for having us over today to support the effort.

..and you guys think I'M doing the Tom Sawyer thing.

What's the secret?

Beer.

I bet Tom is weeping that yet another NoVA theatre is nearing completion. Where is Tom?

Check my thread.

Great work felllas! You set the bar pretty high. My turn is comming.

Stunning!!! Looks great, what a transformation. Good luck with the final push.

Thanks guys. It's hard not to smile now when I go into the room. I'm actually pretty amazed just how fast this last push went. As I think about what is left, it's perhaps 7 days worth of work if you don't include the tinkering with a HTPC and tuning audio and video.


Order sconces
Order seats
Install sconces
cut crown for column tops
stain crown for column tops
install crown
trim speaker/column plates
build speaker/column fabric screen
design and install minisplit furring/track
install minisplit treatments
install minisplit fabric
order wetbar counter top
install counter top, sink and faucet
touch up wall paint
paint baseboard molding around wetbar
install screen material
install audio treatments in the front of the room
figure out how much more treatments I need and order and install the rest
order projector
install projector and finalize projector hush box opening
design, build and install screen wall shadowbox frames.
install seats
do basic audio tests
watch a movie


About half of the above list should be taken care of by the end of next weekend. Definitely getting close. Only the counter top, projector and seats purchases are the real obstacles. And even there my wife seems inclined to losen the purse strings a bit.

congrats on a job very well done. im now looking into the fabricamate system for myself as it seems to be very flexible if i need to re-tension it in the future. let me ask you.... if someone (children) were to go and touch these panels, how deep do you think it can be pushed into the oc703 and would that need to be re-tensioned if it were to happen? why did you choose this system over just stapling the fabric in place?

Anthony,

I wouldn't worry about it too much. As Michael said I have Fabricmate track & GOM in my theater and I have kids that often hang out with their friends. With the advent of Rock Band on the Xbox360 they really get active and often lean into and bounce off of the walls.

http://images41.fotki.com/v1252/photos/1/1068290/4989416/fabricWalls1-vi.jpg

The good news is that GOM is fairly strong and even though they may poke the OC703 panels here and there you really can't tell since the fabric is stretched tightly across the tracks. Depending on the pattern of underlying treatments there may be areas that have no OC703 at all so the GOM is stretched over the 1" gap.

I usually will head down into the theater every few months (or after the kids have been in there) and re-tension the fabric by using the pizza-wheel device or the trowel shown above.

If there is ever a major disaster you can simply replace the fabric in that one panel.

Regards,

BillMac

thanks bill for the detailed response. i always had a nagging feeling about going the fabric route, but i think im gonna take the plunge and do it with the track system. as you and michael have stated, its much easier to just re-tension it if i have any mishaps, but the advantage of the its ultra cool look is priceless.

Wow Michael! It's come a long way quickly! You and the guys did an awesome job. I'm sorry I missed everyone - I would love to have helped. I'm glad CJ finally got that "shaking insides" feeling from your ridiculous sub. I knew he'd appreciate it. :)

Thanks, Chris. It does feel like everything suddenly accelerated. I think part of that is due to the fact that I had spent so much time prepping stuff earlier in the build. For example the lights and column parts I'm about to install and thereby finish the "public" side of the room were all built and stained months ago. So tacking the stuff in place takes all but an hour or two. And with the fabric walls, the room went from feeling largely undone to essentially done. A small step, but with huge impact.

It does all have me just itching to get back down in the basement for a day to get more done. I can't recall a time that I've been more motivated. If I wasn't taking part of next week off to go to a family event, I would just take another day off to get more done. I'm soooo looking forward to Saturday. :)

Michael:

For the sake of posterity (and for those of us that had to leave early), can you post some photos of the panels as they look now? It may even be great to post some photos of the entire room. I really liked the way the first panel came out, and I'm sure the room looks equally great as a whole!

A little progress (or in your case, a lot of progress) is a great motivator!

CJ

Wow Michael! It's come a long way quickly! You and the guys did an awesome job. I'm sorry I missed everyone - I would love to have helped. I'm glad CJ finally got that "shaking insides" feeling from your ridiculous sub. I knew he'd appreciate it. :)

Love the shaky innards! Chris - where have you been? We've missed you!

CJ

Michael:

For the sake of posterity (and for those of us that had to leave early), can you post some photos of the panels as they look now? It may even be great to post some photos of the entire room. I really liked the way the first panel came out, and I'm sure the room looks equally great as a whole!

A little progress (or in your case, a lot of progress) is a great motivator!

CJ

Do the last couple of photos in this post not do that?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17049941#post17049941

If not, let me know what you need and I'll post it tonight.

Been sometime since I've checked in here (been trapped in "baby number 3 zone" this summer) and it's looking fantastic Michael, many congrats on the success thus far.

I'll certainly need your opinions/guidance as I hope to embark on the fabric/GOM route for phase 2 over here. Keep up the exceptional work, the light is at the end of the tunnel is growing brighter (and its not a train)!

Thanks Mark. And congrats on the baby! Another boy?

I've been meaning to drop you a line. I was hoping on having another look as your projector as I get closer to pulling the trigger.

Michael:

I missed those photos. They look great!

CJ

Thanks Mark. And congrats on the baby! Another boy?

I've been meaning to drop you a line. I was hoping on having another look as your projector as I get closer to pulling the trigger.


Actually a girl <gulp>! She's doing great and loving her crazy older brothers, they tire her out.

My schedule frees up after Labor day, swing by anytime to check the projector - certainly come armed with demo material and run it through its paces. Cheers.

Michael, Looking great man, you must be all giddy inside.

Nice job on the documentation for the frabic install.
Couple of questions (apologies if you've already stated)

In this picture it looks like you used some type of construction adhesive.. Liquid nails etc.. when you stapled the track up.. is this a correct observation?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17028806#post17028806
&regarding the 703 install, did you friction fit the panels, use spray adhesive, or tack them in place somehow?


BTW BIG,
Please, I am much too young to be a legend. But, thanks for the compliment.

"Prodigy" would be a much better term for a gentleman of your youth.;)

Michael, Looking great man, you must be all giddy inside.

Nice job on the documentation for the frabic install.
Couple of questions (apologies if you've already stated)

In this picture it looks like you used some type of construction adhesive.. Liquid nails etc.. when you stapled the track up.. is this a correct observation?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17028806#post17028806
&regarding the 703 install, did you friction fit the panels, use spray adhesive, or tack them in place somehow?


I used both liquid nails and 1" staples to install the track. I think it's over kill though. For one section in the rear corner I just used staples and when I discovered that someone (cough Jeff cough) cut a corner piece at a 30 degree angle instead of 45 degrees and needed to rip it out, it took some doing.

As for the material, I used mostly used spray adhesive and on occasion 9when I remembered) a small dab of liquid nails for single layer stuff. When I had two layers, I definitely used spray AND liquid nails between the layers. No tacking required. We'll see how it holds up over time. I don't think it's going anywhere.

And yes, I'm very giddy. I'm counting the moments until Saturday morning when I can do more work.

Mistake? Never. Which corner was that? Seems impossible.

Mistake? Never. Which corner was that? Seems impossible.

Back left corner. The piece was the right length, but because of the angle issue the back tab overlapped a bit. During dryfitting it was fine but only after the pieces were secured did I spot it.

Anyway, I was busting your chops. :) Didn't mean to be anything but grateful.

Michael,

Regarding "Number of days without a blown fuse: 18"

This sounds great - does this mean you found a specific problem? If so - what was the culprit..?

Michael,

Regarding "Number of days without a blown fuse: 18"

This sounds great - does this mean you found a specific problem? If so - what was the culprit..?

Nope. Never found out what the issue was. Ever since the fuse blew the day of the riser install this little gremlin hasn't surfaced. I did extend the riser power boxes to sit flush with the carpet that. Perhaps that caused something to get resolved. But it's only a guess. If (knocks on wood) I get to four weeks, I'll remove the counter and attempt to forget about it.

Here's hoping it's gone forever!

Back left corner.


Hmm, guilty as charged. I think that is when CJ distracted me talking about going to key west for some diving. I'm going to use that as my excuse.

Hmm, guilty as charged. I think that is when CJ distracted me talking about going to key west for some diving. I'm going to use that as my excuse.

Oh sure...blame the slacker, I mean the inspector.

Maybe it was the "wall was not square"/"sun in your face"/"it was just for a little while" sort of deal?

:-)

Look Ma! More staining!

/grumples something about being sooo sick of staining.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0234-1.jpg

Otherwise today was spent installing the lights that arrived yesterday, working on fabric/framing the last panel section, trimming and installing the side speaker column tops and some general clean up. I also played with filling some of the nail holes with a wood filler wax. Looks great, but it's going to take a long time to get all of the nail holes.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0231-1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0233-1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0232-1.jpg

Michael,

The sconces look great, love that fabric!!

Almost done!

Continues to get better and better my friend! Excellent, those sconces look fantastic.

Regards,

RTROSE

NICE choice for the sconces, AND > 21 days without a blown fuse - WooHoo!!!

Sconces look great. Did you go with the ones from Hubbardton Forge?

CJ

Amazing the transformation in such a short time - the years of planning and preparation really paying off.

Getting close.

Looking very nice.

What is the big tripod?

Looking very nice.

What is the big tripod?

Work light. I call it the nuclear option. You can see it engaged in this photo. When plugged in, but with the light retracted, it glows a neon blue on top.

It's a florescent light, so stays cool to the touch.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0008-3.jpg

I forgot how much I hate fiberglass. I spent a good seven hours working on that last wall section today and am still not done. My sinuses and throat are telling me that I should have worn a mask. And the the rest of me has that prickly, itchy feeling. Uck!

Anyway, before I called it quits I basically framed out the area with track and reworked the column a bit since I had originally designed the trim for 2" treatments and not 4".

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0236-1.jpg

Because of the minisplit I had to get a bit creative. I'm not using entirely track. Here you can see where the track stops right above the minisplit. Of the 205' of track I ordered, I literally had 2' of track left once everything was put into place. Talk about cutting it close.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0237-1.jpg

Around the minisplit I built a wooden frame that I'm wrapping with the fabric panel. Here sits the frame on top of the fabric ready to get lined up, trim and stapled.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0235-1.jpg

And the final product looks like this. Hopefully I stretched things enough so I don't get wrinkles in the cloth once it gets installed on the fabric track.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0238.jpg

Before installing I went through fiberglass hell and installed 4" worth of itchy stuff.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0239-1.jpg

I still need to do fill in the gaps in the fiberglass and install the scrim. But that can wait until another day. The work stopped being fun a few hours ago.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0240-1.jpg

Sconces look great. Did you go with the ones from Hubbardton Forge?

CJ

Yep. They are Hubbarton Forge outdoor sconces. The glass tube is closed on top which is something I wanted so that the light under the soffets would look even. I had ordered one about a year ago. I half expected the prices to have increased. Much to my surprise the per unit cost went down 25% in the last year.

Yep. They are Hubbarton Forge outdoor sconces. The glass tube is closed on top which is something I wanted so that the light under the soffets would look even. I had ordered one about a year ago. I half expected the prices to have increased. Much to my surprise the per unit cost went down 25% in the last year.

LOL. No one is building the $1M houses to put those lights in. I like HF lights (Love VT craftsmanship), but man, those dudes are expensive!

They sure look purty though. Are those the 5892 or 5893's?

CJ

LOL. No one is building the $1M houses to put those lights in. I like HF lights (Love VT craftsmanship), but man, those dudes are expensive!

They sure look purty though. Are those the 5892 or 5893's?

CJ

I think they are the 30-5893's. At $165 (iirc) a light, they aren't too bad. Certainly not cheap, but they look amazing and given I have no other lights in the room, I'm not too stressed about the cost. If I had a dozen or more can lights, I would have also spent a ton with the boxes and trim.

I think they are the 30-5893's. At $165 (iirc) a light, they are too bad. Certainly not cheap, but they look amazing and given I have no other lights in the room, I'm not too stressed about the cost. If I had a dozen or more can lights, I would have also spent a ton with the boxes and trim.

That's a good price. When I looked at them last (about a year ago), they were around $300 each. They look fantastic!

CJ

We're going out of town for a wedding, so I wanted to get a few last things done first. Plus, given that it's my b-day, what better way to spend the day then in the basement.

For a present I basically asked for only one thing:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0246-1.jpg

And here it is in it's new home. :) Thanks Mom and Dad!! (they read the thread.)

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0249-1.jpg

Otherwise it was back to installing fiberglass, scrim and fabric.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0247-2.jpg

Rough install of the fabric.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0248-2.jpg

And here is the final panel. It took about two hours from where I left off yesterday.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0250-2.jpg

And with a leap of faith I took a razor to the panel to cut open the mini-split water pump access panel.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0251-1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0252-2.jpg

I still need to make a insert panel for the part about the AC unit as well as to fill the access panel hole.

Next up is install the column crown molding pieces, and trim and install the rear column shelves. If I get to it, I'll start building the fabric frame covers for the columns.

Happy Birthday Michael.

The room is beautiful!!

Are you going with the Dark Brown Micro Fibre seats?

Brad

Happy Birthday Michael.

The room is beautiful!!

Are you going with the Dark Brown Micro Fibre seats?

Brad

Thanks, and yes. I just need to get to a Big Screen Store to look at their fabric book so to be able to place my order. Well that and wait until the bank account recovers a bit.

Looking great Michael!

For a present I basically asked for only one thing:

And here it is in it's new home. :) Thanks Mom and Dad!! (they read the thread.)

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0249-1.jpg



Very nice, if I asked for an oppo my parents would think I have the hiccups and try to burp me or something:D. Spanish word for hiccups is Ipo

Michael,

Glad to see you went with the Oppo. It looks like you also ordered the Middle Atlantic RSH custom Shelf/faceplate?? How's the fit with the Oppo? I was going to place my order but I wanted to wait until they got the cut perfect. Sometimes with newer equipment it takes a few tries for them to get it right.

NICE!

And happy birthday! Your parents don't need any more children, do they (me, being an orphan and all)?

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

Do you parents need another son? I can be available for adoption.

Michael,

Glad to see you went with the Oppo. It looks like you also ordered the Middle Atlantic RSH custom Shelf/faceplate?? How's the fit with the Oppo? I was going to place my order but I wanted to wait until they got the cut perfect. Sometimes with newer equipment it takes a few tries for them to get it right.

It seems like a good fit to me. My only issue is that the shelf I used with the faceplate was bit short. I had to swap out the rear feet with some rubber bumper to get it to fit. If you order the whole kit this should be an issue.

Happy Birthday Michael!

My RSH faceplace for the Oppo-83 was a perfect fit. No worries.

I installed the column crown trim and then ran out of gas for the day. Filled a few dozen nail holes with wax as well. Getting the rest is gonna take forever.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0254-3.jpg

Tomorrow fabric panel frames... tonight, sleep.

Now that is one sweet birthday gift! Happy Birthday. The columns look great.

Happy Birthday Dude! Congrats on the B-day gift, looks good in its new home too. Fabric is looking better and better and nice work around the mini-split. You talk like you were sweating the fabric install around it a little. Turned out nice. Enjoy your time away and your B-day and here's to wishing you many more.

Regards,

RTROSE

Fabric is looking better and better and nice work around the mini-split. You talk like you were sweating the fabric install around it a little. Turned out nice.

I was definitely sweating it. I had no idea if my technique to build around the minisplit would work or not. As it is, a couple of the corners are a bit raw, but nothing that anyone should notice once the chairs are in.

In talking with Bryan last night, it looks like the black fabric may get delivered today or tomorrow. that motivates me to built the speaker frames today. Should be fun, plus it's another opportunity to use my kreg tool. :)

I installed the column crown trim and then ran out of gas for the day. Filled a few dozen nail holes with wax as well.

Michael,

Curious what kind of wax wood filler you are using on the nail holes? Would they be the Minwax pencils..?

Also; Happy Belated Birthday - nice present you got there. I will be interested to know how you are getting along with the Oppo. I can't decide weather to go that direction, or the new PlayStation..?

Happy Birthday Michael, it's really looking nice in there. Just gotta keep looking at these pics to know there is eventually an end.

Michael,

Curious what kind of wax wood filler you are using on the nail holes? Would they be the Minwax pencils..?


Yep. I'm using the Miniwax pencils. They work okay.

And here is today's progress:

Built the frames, just need the fabric. photos are pretty self explanatory.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0255-3.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0256-2.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0257-3.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0258-2.jpg

And yes, that's STILL more trim that needed to be stained. I think I'm now down to just one more piece.

The black screen wall fabric arrived late this afternoon. Looks like I'll be able to get the columns done tomorrow. I'm not sure what I'm going to try to tackle next. I guess finish up the treatments by the screen wall. Or I could work on painting, treating and weather stripping the door.

How about order screen, seats and PJ and I dunno invite a few Friends over :D

LOL. All in due time my friend. :)

My original goal is to be done by the Xmas holidays. I have some other home projects that are going to take me away from the basement for a while.

I apparently built the frames with very tight tolerances. I had to smack the frame a bit to get it into place. I will not want to be taken them out often.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0259-2.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0260-2.jpg

Better tight than loose. Those look great!

I hate when you have to smack a tight fit...:D Opps, sorry, you said your parents read this...

Looks SWEET!!! I may have to put columns in 2.0.

I have some other home projects that are going to take me away from the basement for a while.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO how can you get to this stage of project and then move onto something else - hire out the other projects :D

Columns with speaker grills look great.

Looks Awesome! You've got great 'rentals. Oppo Blu ray ... Wipes drool off chin :)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO how can you get to this stage of project and then move onto something else - hire out the other projects :D

Columns with speaker grills look great.

Got no choice, Mark. I'll build the screen wall and figure out the door. After that I need to wait to replenish funds. Besides, I'm curious as to what CEDIA will bring in terms of projectors.

And here is the rear of the room done. I just need to cut the projector lens hole once I know where it needs to go. Built a little hatch door for the pump, and finish the last panel over the mini-split. Rear speaker grills won't be put all the way in until I get the speakers.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0264-1.jpg

And started the front wall treatments. Ran out of glue, so the rest will need to wait until tomorrow.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0261-1.jpg

edit: I'll replace that blury photo tonight. Right now got to go run. We're going sailing to make use of this perfect weather for the rest of the afternoon.

Right now got to go run. We're going sailing to make use of this perfect weather for the rest of the afternoon.

Life it tough, home theater, at home working on the theater, and then Sailing. What a life....:D

Life it tough, home theater, at home working on the theater, and then Sailing. What a life....:D

It's my s summer staycation. Tomorrow we're heading out of town for a wedding. I just tacked on a couple of days before and afterwards for theater stuff. :)

Here is a better photo of the back and front. Still have to clean.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0265-1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0266-1.jpg

I also got around to installing the lightbox in the lobby. Don't ask how I ended up wiring it.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0268-1.jpg

Looks like news on the Panasonic AE4000 is starting to trickle out. I suspect I'll end up pre-ordering this projector. It's going to be one long and painful wait...

In my opinion (which doesnt count for much around my house) the stay vacation is the best.. no wind up .. no wind down..., less cash outlay :cool:

Michael,

in the pictures (with the flash) it looks like you can see the scrim through the GOM. is there any concern in person.. in normal light can the scrim be seen through the GOM?

FWIW.. you are a theater buildin machine....:D

Brad

The scrim only shows with a heads on flash photo. That's why you see it in the center panel, but not on either side. You just can't see through the GOM in real life conditions.

Simply beautiful. I like how the speaker frames turned out. You workman ship is top notch. I hope your sailing adventure went well and enjoy you much deserved long weekend.

Regards,

RTROSE

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0265-1.jpg


http://images50.fotki.com/v1572/photos/0/1068290/7918843/TheFonz2thumbsup-vi.jpg

Looking Good!

Love the ceiling! You really have to see it in person to appreciate the textured 3D effect.

Back from the wedding and ready to do some more work. I think I'll start on the screen today.

One question first - when making bass traps with 703, do you cut each 2x4 sheet into 4 triangles or 8?


Also, no fuses blown in 31 days now. I'm taking down the counter.

The bigger the trap the better is what I've gleaned. There are some nice diagrams in this thread:

http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=535

http://forum.studiotips.com/download/file.php?id=118&sid=6d400a2b90aa2815c61424a6ea8f2ae1

dont you cut the 2 X 4 in half and then each 2 x 2 square is cut into 4 pcs.

I think this gives you 24" face on a corner bass trap

Brad

Edit :Dave beat me too it

I'll need to check with Bryan to see what he wants me to do. Thanks guys!

Looking great Michael - happy belated birthday! I'm with you on trying to hold out on the projector. I'm sure the new Panny will be awesome and it'll mean that the 3000 will drop. I'm running out of time though - trying to get everything running before my wedding on 10/24. Doh!

I'll need to check with Bryan to see what he wants me to do. Thanks guys!

Bryan wants me to build the larger version of the traps. Looks like I'll need another 3 boxes of 703 and then I'll be done.

Spent the day moving my main room TV's cable box and DVD player to the basement rack. Took longer than I had planned for to install the wall mount and recessed outlet box. I'm now mostly done except for one RF remote related issue.

My Scientific Atlantic cable box has an IR in port in the back, but I don't seem to be able to get it to work. I'll need to call the tech center to see if there is some sort of setting that I'm missing.

edit: Apparently the rear IR port isn't programed to work yet. Annoying.

Michael, congrats on 31 days without an electrical glitch.

I have a question on your AC unit. How did you handle the condensation drain? I am trying to see if I could get a mini split in my room, and the only way I would be able to drain it would be to place the unit on the screen wall behind the screen. I don't know if this would cause issues with a false wall 2 feet in front of it. Since you can breathe through the fabric, maybe it would work but not sure.

If I placed it on the back wall, I could not get the condensation to the drain due to the door being in the way. And placing it on the side wall would have problems due to not wanting to cover where the sconce would go.

I built a box in which my pump is housed. It sits right below the minisplit unit and accessible through a hatch. The pump sends the water up and out.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0239-1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0005-3.jpg

that might be what I would need to do. Do you have any further info on the pump? Does it start at a certain level of water (like a sump pump)? any links as to where you purchased it? Otherwise I would need to run the drain line behind the theater wall, behind the AV closet wall, along the other side of the AV closet and into the utility room drain.

I just called someone at Alpine Air products and discussed it being behind the screen wall too. He said the screen would definately stop the cool air for the most part, but some would get through. I may have to look at building the sides of the screen into some sort of vent. Anyone ever made an air vent covered in black velvet?

Behind the screenwall sounds like it would make your screen into a giant air filter too. Can you flip the room?

dang, forgot the air filter effect...

Nope, not going to flip the room, and I already have vents in the room, this was just incase I needed a little more cool air.

don't bother with the pump info Michael, Dave just changed my mind.

The black part of the pump is the water tank. I have yet to hear it go off when I've been down there. I suspect it takes a number of hours to fill. But then again I keep a dehumidifier running in another part of the basement 24/7. You can get one at any supply house.

The black part of the pump is the water tank. I have yet to hear it go off when I've been down there. I suspect it takes a number of hours to fill. But then again I keep a dehumidifier running in another part of the basement 24/7. You can get one at any supply house.

Can you alarm that with a water alarm? I have the very same type of pump in my basement that collects condensation from the heat pump in the attic and the AC in the basement. It pumps it all the way across the basement to the sump pump.

After I was in the house for a few months, the darn pump died. We had a BIG puddle of water in the basement, but luckily, everything was on pallets. It must have been out for a few days. The puddle was about 10' in diameter. Not much of a mess, but behind a wall...that would be bad.

I've got alarm wires run to this area, (as well as the sump pump pit, the water heater area, and under the washer), but I haven't installed the alarm contacts yet.

CJ

I can and will put an alarm in the box. Just haven't gotten to it. Not running the mini-split often enough to worry about it yet.

Thanks for the idea of an alarm! Don't know why that didn't cross my mind?

Thanks for the idea of an alarm! Don't know why that didn't cross my mind?

It was good of CJ to post the reminder. I've been meaning to put on down near my sump pump and washing machine as well.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/monsoon/y0eIxhuDLKfYwRQjuJcyhw__/795039/getimage_new_o.jpg

less than $9 at the auction site.

$11 each at Amazon, with 3 you get free shipping.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/monsoon/y0eIxhuDLKfYwRQjuJcyhw__/795039/getimage_new_o.jpg

less than $9 at the auction site.

$11 each at Amazon, with 3 you get free shipping.

And since I have Amazon Prime, I get two day air for free. :) Thanks, Jeff!

http://www.amazon.com/Leak-Frog-LF001-Water-Alarm/dp/B000WMSTUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252513523&sr=8-1

I think this would be slightly more stylish.....

I saw that one. Pretty funny.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/418A4PZqILL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

This is what I purchased http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/carboranadum/Other%20Photos/USWLS_full_2242.jpg



http://www.homecontrols.com/United-Security-Water-Level-Sensor-USWLS

It can integrate into a whole house alarm system. Relatively cheap...but the piece of mind is priceless.

CJ

Water alarms, door knob with the thick door screw set and door seal kit should both arrive today. I'm hoping to get the door done this weekend. As for the screen wall, while I may hand the screen, I think I need to hold off on framing the shadow box until I actually get the projector. Otherwise I'd be guessing too much.

I'm still torn with whether to wait on getting a new projector of picking up a discounted AE3000 in the near future. There will always be a newer and better projector around the corner. At some point one just has to pull the trigger.

I'm still torn with whether to wait on getting a new projector of picking up a discounted AE3000 in the near future. There will always be a newer and better projector around the corner. At some point one just has to pull the trigger.

Buying a projector these days is like jumping into a cold pool. You've gotta just hold your breath and JUMP IN! Once you're in,... the water's fine. New projectors will always depreciate and your wife won't understand why you bought something for $5,000 that a few years later is only worth $1.500. The leftover and used models also depreciate just not as much. Find one you like and can afford and get it. If you go the new route you just have to ignore the depreciation and enjoy the picture. If you buy used you can save enough money to upgrade next year.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0254-3.jpg


Did you use black piping around the panels or is that just a shadow?

Did you use black piping around the panels or is that just a shadow?

That is the lip of the fabricmate tracks. I was worried about the look, but I think it makes it a nice and clean install.

That is the lip of the fabricmate tracks. I was worried about the look, but I think it makes it a nice and clean install.

Got it. Yes I do think it looks clean. In fact I've been spending some time designing the theme for my interior and one idea calls for a contrasting piping so using fabricmate could be an option.

I forgot to post the requires cutting of 703 for bass traps photos last weeks. Here they are. Riveting I know. I cut the wrong size initially. BPape wanted me to build the big ones.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0269-1.jpghttp://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0270-1.jpg

And this weekend I thought I'd start on finishing the door. The acoustic seals showed up yesterday. They are much wider than I imagined they would be. Work great, but butt ugly.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0271-1.jpg

You'll notice in the photo a mock up of how I want to mount the door handle. I think I'll have a horizontal piece of oak crossing the door and fabric the rest. Some flat oak trim over the staples and part of the metal door seal and it should look okay. This door is smack in the middle of a first reflection point so I have to treat it. The treatment will likely only be 1/2" of poly fill or something similar.

What you see in the photo took me most of today. I may get a second coat of trim paint on the door frame, but otherwise will start the fabric treatment stuff tomorrow before football starts.

if your looking to buy a pj now, my personal advice will be just to wait a month or so. the new stuff has just been released and should be ready to ship in a months time. you may get a much better pj for the same price you were intending on spending anyway. yes, they last generation stuff will be priced lower now to sell but an improved pj will be a more worthwhile investment imo.

if your looking to buy a pj now, my personal advice will be just to wait a month or so. the new stuff has just been released and should be ready to ship in a months time. you may get a much better pj for the same price you were intending on spending anyway. yes, they last generation stuff will be priced lower now to sell but an improved pj will be a more worthwhile investment imo.

I hear you, but if I have a chance to buy one I like that is on discount now instead of wait a few months and thereby finish the room before my family comes, well that is a strong plus. I really can't start on the screenwall until the projector is in place, so it would suck to be idle. Besides, the jumps in tech really aren't that huge at this point. There will always be something a bit flashier right around the corner.

I forgot to post the requires cutting of 703 for bass traps photos last weeks. Here they are. Riveting I know. I cut the wrong size initially. BPape wanted me to build the big ones.


How big are the "big ones"?

CJ

And this weekend I thought I'd start on finishing the door. The acoustic seals showed up yesterday. They are much wider than I imagined they would be. Work great, but butt ugly.


Can you post some info about the seals? I want to know more. how do they work? What seals did you get?

CJ

How big are the "big ones"?

CJ

I'll steal Dave's photo from a previous page:

http://forum.studiotips.com/download/file.php?id=118&sid=6d400a2b90aa2815c61424a6ea8f2ae1

I had to build the 24x24x34 version. Using 2" 703 you get 8" of linear height per sheet. So a normal sized room will take four boxes for two traps. That's a lot of fiberglass.

I'll take some photos of the seals once I get to work downstairs today, but this tell the basics. There are just hardcore rubber seals where you can adjust the degree of sealage. The floor mounted one drops it's seal once the room closes. The adjustment screw hits a contact plate that pushes the screw in and thereby the seal down. Took me forever yesterday to figure out how the damn thing worked.

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/doorseals/images/doorseal2.jpg http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/doorseals/images/doorseal4.jpg

Hey Michael, as usual, looking great.

My equip room door is also at my first reflection point, I planned on using a small crown molding and building 2 "inverted picture frames" that basically cover the top and bottom door panels, with ~3-4" of the door exposed all around and in between. Then inserting them with 703 and covering with cloth, I should be able to use a standard latch set this way, But now Im curious to see your approach.

Will you be covering the 703 on the front wall, to kinda "seal off" the 703 or just using the false wall to hide it?

Brad

As a long time "lurker" here on the forum who is preparing to build a dedicated theater room in my unfinished basement, after just looking through all 2000+ posts on your theater thread build...all I can say is WOW!!! What a nice build and awesome design. I'll be anxious to follow along as you finish. If I lived closer, I'd pay for admission just to hear your system and that sub design. :D

I did wonder, why multiple layers of drywall? Is that simply for acoustic purposes?

I'll keep lurking and watching!

As a long time "lurker" here on the forum who is preparing to build a dedicated theater room in my unfinished basement, after just looking through all 2000+ posts on your theater thread build...all I can say is WOW!!! What a nice build and awesome design. I'll be anxious to follow along as you finish. If I lived closer, I'd pay for admission just to hear your system and that sub design. :D

I did wonder, why multiple layers of drywall? Is that simply for acoustic purposes?

I'll keep lurking and watching!

Thanks for reading!

The first two layers of drywall (along with the GreenGlue) are for sound proofing. The six layers of material on the IB wall are to stiffen it up. Four 18" drivers can bring a house down. :)

Hey Michael, as usual, looking great.

My equip room door is also at my first reflection point, I planned on using a small crown molding and building 2 "inverted picture frames" that basically cover the top and bottom door panels, with ~3-4" of the door exposed all around and in between. Then inserting them with 703 and covering with cloth, I should be able to use a standard latch set this way, But now Im curious to see your approach.

Will you be covering the 703 on the front wall, to kinda "seal off" the 703 or just using the false wall to hide it?

Brad

I ordered a "thick door" lockset made by Kwikset. The listed info says it's good for a door up to 2.25 inches thick. After testing, it seems to work up to 2.5". That is enough for me to allow for 1/2" of polyfill and some 1/4" trim.

Here is the door with some 1/2" poplar ripped so that I have enough to staple into. The center strip is to support the middle trim board that also supports the door handle.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0272-1.jpg

The poly fill. I could only find the 1/4" loft stuff so I just tripled it up.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0273-1.jpg

And fabric stapled in place.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0275.jpg


CJ - Here is a photo of the strike plate that the screw hits to drop the door seal. Mine sits on carpet at the end which isn't very efficiant. The fact that it's berber helps. Ideally you want to have the seal rest on a hard surface.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0274-1.jpg

I'm still staining wood, so have nothing more to show in finishing the door, but I did start the CIH screen construction stage. I'm hoping to have the screen built by the end of the weekend and hopefully have my projector ordered by then as well.

First a photo of the building supplies: ~50 tarp clips, 50' of bungie cord, normal line, and some metal carpet strips to help frame out the screen material. the plan is to install the screen kinda like a trampoline stretched between the opening.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0276-1.jpg

First you make sure all of the hook holes will be level and in line. I used a self leveling laser level thingie. Works great.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0279-1.jpg

Pre drill your holes about every 8" or so and screw in the hooks.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0277-1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0278-1.jpg

If you want to avoid killing you wrist manually screwing in so many hooks, get one of these driver attachments. Works great.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0284-1.jpg

Next up is playing with the screen material, getting the angles right and attaching the tarp clips. I want to do that while I'm fresh, so will likely wait until the weekend.

BTW - Here is what I'm basing this build off of. PMeyer game a pretty good guide in his thread.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z196/pgmeyer/avspics/DSC_0761.jpg

Looking good... Its almost movie time! Glad to see you got your electrical gremlin sorted, I know the headache it can cause.

...

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0278-1.jpg

....


This is one of my fav pics. You get this little glimpse of the monster lurking behind the pretty yellow wall. :)

Well I said I would stop, but apparently I just can't help myself.

So I layed out the metal support strips. I cut them a few inches larger than final screen size. I didn't leave much wiggle room inside of the framed out false wall, so I have to make things tighter that I planned. I suspect the final screen size will be just under 9' wide instead of exactly 9', but we'll see.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0285-1.jpg

And out some that roll of SMX I've been holding onto for the past two and a half years.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0286.jpg

Tough to get things lined up and adjust for the 15 degrees so to avoid moire (is that the word?).

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0287-2.jpg

Once in place I pencil in my cut lines.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0288.jpg

And there you go.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0290-1.jpg

Next up is install the clips. My hooks are 8" apart so I need to line up the tarp clips so they will fall between the hooks. I only get the top side done before I need to quit.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0291.jpg

I suspect I don't have enough height in that cut out, but i won't really know until I'm ready to hang it. And since I need to cook dinner tonight, the rest will need to wait until the weekend. Lord knows I'm going to be stressing about this.

Man, you are in the final stretch (hehe so to speak)...hang in there (haha, I cant stop)! :)

Boy, you've made a huge amount of progress! Everything is looking great!!

CJ

PS- moire is the correct word :)

Glad you're making your AT screen first...I was thinking it was FIVE degrees, not 15.

Looking good!

OK, got a really silly question...aren't you supposed to test a small amount of material with your actual projector to deterimine the angle necessary to prevent moire? I think that I recall reading that somewhere.

The idea is that there is no one perfect angle that prevents miore...it's more of a thing that depends on the actual projector you are using. This angle can vary by projector model (based on types of the pixels, their size, their distance apart, and the distance from the projector to the screen).

From the SMX website: "A common problem with today's high resolution digital projectors and audio transparent movie screens is moiré. Moiré is caused when the projection screens perforation pattern aligns with the digital projectors pixel pattern or screen door. Every projector, attachable lens, screen size, offset, and throw distance differs from person to person.

The only guaranteed way to eliminate moiré is the ability to adjust for it on site. The SmX ProLine and ProCurv frames eliminate moiré possibilities by allowing you to adjust the CineWeave™ HD projector screen material."

I assume that they have a standard offset angle for their Cineweave material, then the screen is rotated a bit to ensure no moire is present with the projector?

Am I missing something here? Is there a magic angle whereby moire will not be an issue?

CJ

Rotating the screen (SMX) material to prevent moire was only an issue with DLP projectors (as far as I can remember). If you go LCD you should be fine. Looks like you've got plenty of material either way.

Better safe than sorry.

Typically it is 15 degrees that addresses moire with most projectors, the Epson's tend to be the exception. Your right though Carb, a test is the best way to ensure that your proj. and distance aren't an issue. Having said that though Cathan is planning on getting the Panasonic 3000 which doesn't exhibit much if any moire issues on the sheerweave fabrics. With the 15 degree tilt Cathan will be all set and has hopefully future proofed any potential future upgrades.

Rotating the screen (SMX) material to prevent moire was only an issue with DLP projectors (as far as I can remember). If you go LCD you should be fine. Looks like you've got plenty of material either way.

Better safe than sorry.


Nope, not at all. See above;)

Rotating the screen (SMX) material to prevent moire was only an issue with DLP projectors (as far as I can remember). If you go LCD you should be fine. Looks like you've got plenty of material either way.

Better safe than sorry.

Bill:

I'm not disputing what you said, just asking for a reference. I've not seen anything that would indicate that moire effect only applies to DLPs. I think it would be more pronounced, due to the effects of the mirror switching and the affect it has on the human eye, but LCDs have pixels that can be visible and cause moire, right?

CJ

Typically it is 15 degrees that addresses moire with most projectors, the Epson's tend to be the exception. Your right though Carb, a test is the best way to ensure that your proj. and distance aren't an issue. Having said that though Cathan is planning on getting the Panasonic 3000 which doesn't exhibit much if any moire issues on the sheerweave fabrics. With the 15 degree tilt Cathan will be all set and has hopefully future proofed any potential future upgrades.

I'm not trying to be difficult here. I just had always read that you need the projector and screen material present when you begin to build the screen and that you need to test a small piece of the material with your projector and all accessories (lenses, etc) in place at the distance that your projector will be mounted. Then you test a swatch for moire. If we can just assume that 15 degrees is the magic number, that makes it much easier!

Thanks for the help in understanding this, guys.

CJ

Not difficult at all Carb. With so much info it is difficult to keep up with everything. 15 degrees was found to be the minimum amount of tilt needed to address moire, anything less and you were still having issues. Distance plays a part in this because the further you pull away the proj the larger esentially you are making the pixels and in theory you have less chance of moire interacting with the weave pattern.

Seymour's new XD weave requires less tilt (no tilt at all with the Panny 3000) because it is a tighter weave. For some reason the Epson projectors are a little more notorious and need a tilt of about 30-35 degrees with the original material in order to address their moire issues, the pixels just line up that perfectly with the pattern of the weave.

Best bet is to test with projeector in hand, especially anything other than the Panny.

And out some that roll of SMX I've been holding onto for the past two and a half years.


If only it was still available...I wonder why they stopped selling just the material, maybe it was because they realized if they also sell a really nice frame they can charge a ton of cash for it.

As for the moire, do you need a projector to test for that? I am sure the degree of rotate is pretty much the same, but I know in my early reading on SMX, they said to project an image and rotate till the moire was gone.

On his newest material is there still a need for this rotation or has Rueben figured out how to eliminate the moire completely now with his latest materials? I dont know this one, so I am just asking, I thought I read somewhere the moire issue is gone.

I think his new 4k material eliminates it. I haven't seen any pics of the material though but I suspect it would look something like the EN4k

http://www.stjohngroup.com/blasts/SJG_SE_EN4K_web.html

Michael - looking good!

Also a "thinking-out-loud" question on this screen stretching method:

I wonder if one could adapt this method, and do a curved screen by laying out the horizontal anchor points in an arc, and stretching from top to bottom, and use some type of rigid/straight-edge "anchor" for the ends...?

Good thought cuzed2, I think something like that would work.

that roll of SMX I've been holding onto for the past two and a half years.

You too, huh? I hope mine looks as good as yours does when I finally unroll it. Actually, I hope that's what's in the box when I finally open it ...

^^^^

LOL. Same here. Been sitting unopened in the garage for what, two years now? At least I THINK that's what that box is.

Same here, but I did open the box when I got it, just never unrolled it to make sure how much I have. Now it is back in its protective cocoon and waiting to become the centerpeice of the front wall.

I've been tied up with actual work today and am only getting to reading all of the posts.

CJ - You are 100% correct that I SHOULD have tested using a projector first. Did I realize this before cutting material, ehhhh, nope. I just had notes that I should rotate it around 15%. When I came across a post last night about the rotation being variable I nearly **** my pants. After further research it turns out that it's a non-issue with my selected projector though. And yes, I breathed a sigh of relief and poured myself another Patron.

I also realized I made some minor positioning errors when I designed my hush box and mounted the minisplit. I should have mounted my mini split 4" lower so that I could have built the hushbox 4" lower so to have a smidge of wiggle room so that the projector lined up exactly with the top on the screen. Right now the projector will be 3" above the screen. Now given how close I got after three years of the estimating and wildass guessing, I'm pretty please to be within 3" of perfect. All of this is caused by the tight tolerances I am working with due to my low ceiling and even lower soffits.

Man, you are in the final stretch (hehe so to speak)...hang in there (haha, I cant stop)! :)

Ok. So that made me laugh harder than it should. :D

Pulled the trigger and ordered the projector. I'll have it on Monday. :D

Given that we also booked our trip to Thailand this week, it's going to be a while before I'll be able to get chairs. Looks like my wife and I will be enjoying the room in camp chairs for a while. Not going to have the big reveal until they are in place and the wetbar counter top is in however.

Now we'll see just how much works slows down. The good thing is that building the shadowbox for the screen should take more than a weekend and it's something I'm looking forward to. It's just the sort of work I enjoy, if I mess up it doesn't cost much to start over and it doesn't involve staining. :)

Congrats Cathan, I truly believe you will be very happy with the new addition. Having personally seen it in action at Jamis', the image was jaw dropping.

Yeah. My wife and I went to visit Tupalev's theater again last weekend just to play with the Panny 3000 it sure is beautiful. I have Mark now to thank for the purse strings being loosened to make this purchase happen. My wife just sat there stunned while watching Ratatouille. I think part of the reason is now she wants to see how the movie ends and soon.

The door pieces were dry after their last coat of poly and I had some spare time this morning to install the top section. Shouldn't look too bad once done given the challenges of hiding the door seals and working around the door knobs depth limitations. At 2 1/2" that door is pretty darn thick. I would have like the width to be thinner of those boards, but then I would have had nothing to nail them into since the seals are 1 1/2" wide.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0275.jpghttp://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0292.jpg

One of the last three boxes of 703 arrived yesterday, so hopefully the others will get here today. Would be nice to get the treatment stuff all done before putting up the screen tomorrow.

Michael,

That door is going to shape up nice - good work!

Yeah. My wife and I went to visit Tupalev's theater again last weekend just to play with the Panny 3000 it sure is beautiful. I have Mark now to thank for the purse strings being loosened to make this purchase happen. My wife just sat there stunned while watching Ratatouille. I think part of the reason is now she wants to see how the movie ends and soon.

You are welcome sir - just doing my patriotic duty to foster our economic recovery! Congrats, you won't be disappointed ...

- Mark

One of the last three boxes of 703 arrived yesterday, so hopefully the others will get here today. Would be nice to get the treatment stuff all done before putting up the screen tomorrow.

You will find an additional time problem once the screen and projector are installed. For some reason, all your free time will disappear. :D

I worked on the screen a bit tonight. The bungie/trampoline technique is not going to work unfortunately. My screen wall just isn't built right for it. With a smaller screen it may work, but I don't want to do that. Looks like I'll need to build a more traditional frame for the material.

In other annoying news - I seem to have a bit of echo/fluttering in the center of my room. Its almost like a rubber band twang when I clap near where I think my actual seat will be. Now granted it may go away once the furniture is in, but it's something for me to keep an ear on. I suspect I'll need to replace the soffit wood frames with some sort of treatment. Too many hard surfaces perhaps. We'll add that to the theater 2.0 construction to-do list.

Yeah. My wife and I went to visit Tupalev's theater again last weekend just to play with the Panny 3000 it sure is beautiful. I have Mark now to thank for the purse strings being loosened to make this purchase happen. My wife just sat there stunned while watching Ratatouille. I think part of the reason is now she wants to see how the movie ends and soon.

This is how I got my wife "hooked" just on the idea of a projector. I brought a business projector home from work and set it up in the basement as a "proof of concept" and watched i, Robot on a kilz screen. That is when I got the "ok" for the theater room concept. She should have been from Missouri "The show me state" rather than Michigan. :D But it worked. That is all that matters.

Room is looking fantastic! The door setup seems as though it will do the job.

Regards,

RTROSE

Okay, time to take a second shot at building the screen. Decided to go old school with plain 'ole 2x4s.

First we cut and paint 'em.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0294.jpg

Then we assemble the frame. Extra corner brace just for the overkill.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0295.jpg
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0296.jpg

And we lay the fabric on and staple

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0297.jpg

And then she gets lifted in place, held up by hand clamps, centered and then screwed. I still need to add a couple of bottom braces. I painted them before I quit for the day.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0298.jpg

I do have one problem area. There is a minor fold visable at the bottom where I had attached the metal brace from version 1.0. It's going to be covered by the shadow box, but still it shows you that you have to be careful with the fabric. Perhaps I can iron it out, but then again why bother since it won't show.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0301.jpg

To bad on version 1.0. Quick work on the new screen. Don't bother if it wont show, but no iron in any case. Vinyl will melt, maybe a damp towel in between but why bother. When I did my screen I started to spline wrong but with enough pull I got rid of a small crease I inadvertantly made.

Michael,

That door is going to shape up nice - good work!

Thanks. Here is the final product.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0302-1.jpg

You will find an additional time problem once the screen and projector are installed. For some reason, all your free time will disappear. :D

I actually hope so. I'm so conditioned right now to be constantly active, I'm going to have to train myself to sit still.

And then she gets lifted in place, held up by hand clamps, centered and then screwed.

Easy there. This is a family friendly forum.:D

P.S. Nice door.:)

So... did the projector show up today?

Inquiring minds want to know..

Inquiring minds want to know..

LOL. Funny you should ask. I've been working all day on the front screen wall waiting for the UPS man to show since I was told he would need a signature. While I wa in the basement for most of the day, the painting crew who is working on the part of the house didn't see the big brown truck pull up the driveway either. So I just tracked the package and what does the notice say but "Delivered, location = garage." And sure enough there it is sitting in my garage.

So while I was planning on posting a ton of photos, you all are going to have to wait. I'm heading downstairs to hook up the new toy... :D

It's almost as much fun when someone else gets a new toy! :) But not quite! :p

Once i got the unit turned on, set up took all of a couple of minutes. I obviously still need to fine tune the image, but it's good enough to watch tv tonight. Our main room's TV is out of order as the room is being painted at the moment.

Anyway, here is the new toy.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0318-1.jpg

And here is a bad picture of the news. Date and time saved for prosperity. :)

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0319.jpg

I mentioned that set up after getting the unit to turn on was smooth. Let me tell you that getting the unit to turn on for the first time was anything but smooth. Plugged everything in, hit on and I got nothing. A few minutes of tinkering and I remembered that I had to turn on the projector fuse. Did that and still no power. A few more minutes and I remembered that I need to hook up the extension cord to the power bridge. Do that and still no power. Now I'm worried. I test the outlet and it's hot, so I wonder it it's the projector. Only then do I spot the master power switch on the side. Flick that on and we got an image. :)

Looks like you are no longer master of your domain. You wait as long as you can....you try t ohold hold out as long as you can, until....you...just...can't...last....any....longer.....hang the projector and no more work!!!


Bwahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!

Take it down, take it down ........

Cathan looks good. Gotta watch tv somewhere ;) might enjoy it on that new projector.

Am I seeing the beggining of masking slides off to the sides of your screen?

Looks like you are no longer master of your domain. You wait as long as you can....you try t ohold hold out as long as you can, until....you...just...can't...last....any....longer.....hang the projector and no more work!!!
Bwahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!

Take it down, take it down ........

Nothing to worry about. I'm about a full weekend away from getting it ALL done accept for the tinkering with the projector and audio.

Cathan looks good. Gotta watch tv somewhere ;) might enjoy it on that new projector.

Am I seeing the beginning of masking slides off to the sides of your screen?

That you are. To prove Tom wrong, I'll post my masking progress in a few minutes. Got up early this morning to continue working on it and will likely leave early today to do some more work.

Nice!!! Any intention on trying to automate it. Some great work has been over in the DIY 2:35 section with antenna rotators.

Nice!!! Any intention on trying to automate it. Some great work has been over in the DIY 2:35 section with antenna rotators.

Not at this time. I want to see if I can get my manual version to work first. I may tackle it in theater version 2.0. I suspect I'll be able to live with the manual masking. Things like the HTPC are a bit more pressing.

I hear ya. If you are simply masking between 2:35 and 16:9 it may be overkill with the antenna method. If anything I would look at the remote control curtain option which you can probably employ later on. Good luck with it.

Here's the start of my first screen masking attempt.

Not wanting to deal with the extra complexities of a auto-masking system, I want to put together a simple sliding panel masking system.

I started by building a set of frames that are as long as the screen height, in my case 45". So to have a bit of wiggle room I short cut them by 1/4".

This is a photo of the first version. I soon discovered that I needed to have all of the cross braces butt into the long piece so that I could get a couple of kreg screws in to each side. In some of the photos below you will see that the right side masking panel was perfected under version 2.0. The improved left panel is more a version 1.5 - clunky for it will work and once covered with cloth, no one will be the wiser.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0305-1.jpg

I picked up a pair of full extension draw slides that were 16" long. I only need to reduce my masking by 14" per side (108" wide 2.35 to 80" wide 16:9). The extra two inches was to have some extra wiggle room. I tried using only one slide per frame, but it wasn't stable enough.

I attached wood braces to the side of the screen onto which the draw slide would mount.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0308-1.jpg

I found it easier to just install the top slide to the top mounting location and then with the lower slide already attached to the frame to a mark it's location mounting location on the lower attachment piece. That way you don't have to constantly adjust the two slides to get them parallel and at the same depth.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0311-1.jpg

The photo above is using the first version of the panel frame. The photo right below has the beefed up panel. It was pulling apart until I added the additional top brace piece. That and version 1.0 was too long.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0312-1.jpg

Once in place I built the side frame that the panel will slide behind. I basically put it in place, flushed it with the masking panel and attached wood blocks to the frame's corners to lock in the offset from the screen wall. Eventually I'll attach velcro to to these blocks and where they hit on the screen wall. Not only will that secure the frame, but it will also provide the gap needed between the sliding panel and the covering frame.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0315.jpg

In this side angle photo you can see that there is a gap between the extended panel and the screen. I will reduce this gap with the addition of a piece of wood to the masking frame to reduce this gap to about a 1/4".

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0314.jpg

I painted the frames last night before going to bed, so I should be able to wrap some of them in cloth soon. Once the sides are done, I need to fine tune the projected image within the side frames so to lock in the final masking height for the horizontal pieces. Those should be rather straightforward.

Man on Fire!!!

Projector install slowing you down, hah! No way.

Very nice work, looking foward to seeing it all together.

Very nice. I am planning on making some panels soon. I had planned on making some very basic ones that I just hang in place when needed, but I really like how I think yours will end up... Hmmm..

CJ

Very nice. I am planning on making some panels soon. I had planned on making some very basic ones that I just hang in place when needed, but I really like how I think yours will end up... Hmmm..

CJ

If you do, be careful how you attach the draw slide to the panel. You want to be able to access the release tab when the panel is extended and the covering wall frame is removed. If you reverse it, the screen will block the release tab. The fat part of the slide has to attach to the panel. This is opposite of how you would do it if you were using the slide on an actual drawer.

Very nice...... I had planned on making some very basic ones that I just hang in place when needed, but I really like how I think yours will end up...

+1

The great part about this way is you can always add automation later if you want. Thanks for sharing such detailed info!

Very slick Michael! Great work! Glad your new toy is motivating you rather than providing a reason for work stoppage.

Looking forward to finished pics of the masking system.

Regards,

RTROSE

Good stuff. Question if you open the masks by pulling at just the top is there any binding to speak of? Reason I ask is wondering if the rack and pinion I have would work with the drawer slide method. Is the middle slides needed to help with sag when open all the way?

thanks Looking good man!

Do those slides have the soft close feature? :D

Good stuff. Question if you open the masks by pulling at just the top is there any binding to speak of? Reason I ask is wondering if the rack and pinion I have would work with the drawer slide method. Is the middle slides needed to help with sag when open all the way?


I tried it with one slide and what happens is that the frame torques. While you can build the rest of the shadow box to deal with that, I thought it would be simpler just to add a second slide. My left frame does slide a bit easier than the right side which is likely due to the right side slides not being 100% parallel to each other. Both sides have enough tension that the draws aren't going to move anywhere on their own.


Do those slides have the soft close feature? :D

They don't, but they do have a lock in system so if you used them for a more traditional purpose that they wouldn't ever open on their own. It takes a minor tug to get them moving.


In other news, Mark (Tupalev) came over last night to help fine tune the projector. We got it as close to perfect as my particular room allows for both 2.35 and 16.9. The keystoning I had was resolved. I'm real happy with the image.

I also ran Audyssey (sp?) for the first time on my pre and it made a remarkable difference. I hadn't done any audio equalization or even the most basic set-up and obviously the difference now is remarkable. I suspect it lowered the output on the sub a chunk. Once I have the HTPC built I'll install REW and begin the fine tuning process. Without the final seats in there isn't much of a point in doing more.

We did watch the opening battle scene from Master & Commander in blueray. I really need to tinker with the OPPO setup because I couldn't get a DTS option to show on the Integra 9.9. But even with using a less than optimal listening mode and not having the audio fully equalized, I still had a sheet eating grin once the cannons started firing. My wife turned to look at me and just smiled. Made all the work over the past few years worth it. :)

EXCELLENT! Wife's smile is what makes all worth while. Can't wait to get mine completed.

Been watching Dancing with the Stars with the LOGANESS on the 65" with the dennon, axiom center, old rat shack FL+FR, a powered sub and some leftover HTiB surrounds. Monday night, "It's pretty loud." Tuesday night, I have rehearsal and ask if she wants to watch it on the big screen, she says , "no it's too hard to set up." I say, come on I'll show you..."You press this red button right here." Wednesday night I say do you want to watch it on the big screen, she says, "It WAS pretty cool....." I think she's getting there.

Another funny little thing, I wish I had my camera. About halfway through DWTS last night, all of a sudden the dog gets up, walks over to the sub and stares at it. It's sitting right next to the RF, I can tell he's looking at the sub, not the speaker. I mean, he's got his nose right there. Everytime the bass hit, he jerked his head back, right in time with the music. I think I could've won 20k on AFHV.

I can't image what that inifinite baffle would do to cathan's two pups.

I can't image what that inifinite baffle would do to cathan's two pups.

Mine go running. I don't have them in the room with us, but apparently Lyza ran outside while I was demoing The Pulse last night.

One other thing that happened is that I learned that during extreme bass bursts like with The Pulse (16Hz sustained) my screen shakes. It's attached to the soffet which shakes, which is attached to the ceiling which shakes, which is is decoupled from the house ... which still shakes.

While I like bass as much as the next guy, I also want the bass to be seamless with the rest of the sound track. A car door closing shouldn't rock the house; the Death Star blowing up should. I'll be very interested to finally get a REW graph to show me what the sub is actually doing.

And one more thing - Dances with the Stars?!@?@?!!? I think it's time that you turn in your man card.

I tried it with one slide and what happens is that the frame torques. While you can build the rest of the shadow box to deal with that, I thought it would be simpler just to add a second slide. My left frame does slide a bit easier than the right side which is likely due to the right side slides not being 100% parallel to each other. Both sides have enough tension that the draws aren't going to move anywhere on their own.




They don't, but they do have a lock in system so if you used them for a more traditional purpose that they wouldn't ever open on their own. It takes a minor tug to get them moving.


In other news, Mark (Tupalev) came over last night to help fine tune the projector. We got it as close to perfect as my particular room allows for both 2.35 and 16.9. The keystoning I had was resolved. I'm real happy with the image.

I also ran Audyssey (sp?) for the first time on my pre and it made a remarkable difference. I hadn't done any audio equalization or even the most basic set-up and obviously the difference now is remarkable. I suspect it lowered the output on the sub a chunk. Once I have the HTPC built I'll install REW and begin the fine tuning process. Without the final seats in there isn't much of a point in doing more.

We did watch the opening battle scene from Master & Commander in blueray. I really need to tinker with the OPPO setup because I couldn't get a DTS option to show on the Integra 9.9. But even with using a less than optimal listening mode and not having the audio fully equalized, I still had a sheet eating grin once the cannons started firing. My wife turned to look at me and just smiled. Made all the work over the past few years worth it. :)

Sweet!

And one more thing - Dances with the Stars?!@?@?!!? I think it's time that you turn in your man card.

Since when does watching half-naked hot women dance challenge one's man-ness? If you have to get sucked into "wife TV", it's not a bad way to go.

I didn't know you have to mask with the AE3000

Well, I'm glad SOMEONE has my back. Too bad Etyda got the boot in week one, AGAIN.\\

And besides, I only watch it for the articles.

Since when does watching half-naked hot women dance challenge one's man-ness? If you have to get sucked into "wife TV", it's not a bad way to go.

Hey I'm chiming in and voting with midnite on this issue.
I have coffee every morning with a bunch of guys >> just this morning it was obvious that the majority could identify all of the lady dancers by name.

All of these "distinguished gentlemen" still have their man-cards :cool:

I didn't know you have to mask with the AE3000

You do if you want to cover the part of the screen where no image is being displayed during 16:9 viewing.

Since when does watching half-naked hot women dance challenge one's man-ness? If you have to get sucked into "wife TV", it's not a bad way to go.

Do you watch woman's figure skating during the Olympics too? :p

I know how to make Olympic Women's Figure Skating bigger than the NFL, NASCAR, NBA, NHL and MLB COMBINED. Two steps, two simple steps. But in the interest of decency and returning Cathan's thread, you probably should PM me.

The itch is FINALLY over. I just finished cutting up the last two boxes of 703 rigid fiberglass to make the bass traps.

Also finished wrapping the side panels. Managed to staple the tip of my finger. Unlike all my other air tools, there isn't a safety trigger devise on the stapler. It's just pull the trigger and fires. Here's a terrible photo (too lazy to go back to the basement to take another shot) but you get the idea.

I'm short GOM, so I need to wait until next weekend to finish the room. Besides, we have family coming in from out of town so I won't get more than an hour or two of work in. Should be enough time to cut the pieces for the rest of the shadow box fabric frames.

After that I still need to look into the counter top for the wet bar. Once that is in place and I get the basement cleaned up, we'll be done-done with all construction. All that is left is to watch some movies and endlessly tinker with crap. I may just come under my 200 Home Depot runs prediction I made a little over two and a half years ago.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0320-1.jpg

I'm short GOM, so I need to wait until next weekend to finish the room.

Can't use use a little more Blue tape - it really adds to to aesthetics :D

Really look nice - can't wait se see & hear it finished

The itch is FINALLY over. I just finished cutting up the last two boxes of 703 rigid fiberglass to make the bass traps.

Also finished wrapping the side panels. Managed to staple the tip of my finger. Unlike all my other air tools, there isn't a safety trigger devise on the stapler. It's just pull the trigger and fires. Here's a terrible photo (too lazy to go back to the basement to take another shot) but you get the idea.

I'm short GOM, so I need to wait until next weekend to finish the room. Besides, we have family coming in from out of town so I won't get more than an hour or two of work in. Should be enough time to cut the pieces for the rest of the shadow box fabric frames.

After that I still need to look into the counter top for the wet bar. Once that is in place and I get the basement cleaned up, we'll be done-done with all construction. All that is left is to watch some movies and endlessly tinker with crap. I may just come under my 200 Home Depot runs prediction I made a little over two and a half years ago.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0320-1.jpg
LOL on the stapler! We used to use our upholstery stapler at work to shoot co-workers on occasion. :rolleyes: Luckily the staples don't weigh much and never did cause any harm.

Can't use use a little more Blue tape - it really adds to to aesthetics :D

Really look nice - can't wait se see & hear it finished

Like it, eh? It the industrial look I've been going for. Really ties the room together.

In all seriousness, the blue tape made dialing in the projector a ton easier. Besides marking the outer limits of the image (center line, 16:9, 2.35), it also has made measuring for the masking and shadow box panels very straight forward. I have the limits of each screen dimension marked preciously. Basically use my laser level to get everything perfectly vertical/horizontal.

LOL on the stapler! We used to use our upholstery stapler at work to shoot co-workers on occasion. :rolleyes: Luckily the staples don't weigh much and never did cause any harm.

Until you hit some one in the eye, then its lawsuit time...

Until you hit some one in the eye, then its lawsuit time...

It's all fun and games till someone gets a detached retina!!!


Seriously - The theater is looking AWESOME!!! Next time I come up to N. VA. area, The wife and I would love to stop in and check it out. Of course, we don't know when we'll be up there again, maybe sometime next year as we tour some more VA Wineries. We'll even bring you a bottle of wine from our tour.

It's all fun and games till someone gets a detached retina!!!


Seriously - The theater is looking AWESOME!!! Next time I come up to N. VA. area, The wife and I would love to stop in and check it out. Of course, we don't know when we'll be up there again, maybe sometime next year as we tour some more VA Wineries. We'll even bring you a bottle of wine from our tour.

Just drop me a PM.

..........And besides, I only watch it for the articles.


Me too!

Regards,

RTROSE

As predicted I only had a few hours to work with guests in town. But at the end I did what I could with the materials on hand. Need a bit more wood and for the fabric to arrive. Only have the top piece of the shadowbox left.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0321.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0322-1.jpg

I added tabs to pull the masking open. Works ok, but not great. Once I get more fabric I'll be able to fiish the rest. I think I need to add some fabric behind the speakers. When you have a black scene with white lettering (like the opening for the movie we watched) the letters shadow through the screen on the 703. Minor issue, but something I need to address.

We watched our first movie last night - 5th Element. My wife had never seen it and she love the movie and the experience. Overall I'm pleased.

That front screen wall is looking sweet. I am only about a year finished with my room and I am already thinking about redoing my front wall so that I can add masking. I just might borrow your design.

The room is done.

At this point all I have left to do is order seats and tinker endlessly with the sound, video, remote programing, etc. But construction is over. I'll post some photos later in the day.

The room is done.


Slacker, time to start planning HT2.0 or at least HT1.5

Slacker, time to start planning HT2.0 or at least HT1.5

Not sure there is much room for improvement with this room

Must feel great, Congrats! We'll see how long before you get those seats.;)

Congratulations! That's is a sweet space, but also sort of bittersweet, no? I mean, what's next?

:D

CJ

WHOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOO

Visual of RTROSE doing his impression of the cabbage patch dance!

WHOOOOOT WHOOOOOOT!!!!!!!!!!


SALUTE!!!!!


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/RTROSE_album/beavisbutthead-01.gif

Looking forward to seeing some photos.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks guys. I still have plenty of fine tuning left, so no major new construction plans yet. Would be nice to actually enjoy the room for a while. And yes, it does feel a bit anti-climatic given the lack of furniture at the moment.

So yesterday I finished the hush box cover. I just used a light trim to clean up the hole I cut. After finishing both my wife and I don't like the chrome trim. I'll either paint it or just pick up a black trim piece as some point.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0324-1.jpg

Next weekend we have family coming in from out of town, but hopefully i can slip away to go countertop shopping.

Have you decided if your going the paint the AC unit black?

Or the color of the wall.

Have you decided if your going the paint the AC unit black?

I'm going to leave it as it is. Once the projector is on you can't see it in the back of the room anyway. Turning around to face the projector means risking burning your eyes out.

Jeff - yes, I'm going to paint my walls white to match the projector. The room is just too dark and light controlled. May add a window as well.

Jeff - yes, I'm going to paint my walls white to match the projector. The room is just too dark and light controlled.

actually this is what I had in mind, paint the unit the color of the walls.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/IMG_0324-1.jpg

After finishing both my wife and I don't like the chrome trim. I'll either paint it or just pick up a black trim piece as some point.



You'll be able to spray that trim easily. Just hit it with either a wool pad or very fine grit sand paper first. And let it sit for a day after spraying I did my stage light trim that way. The projector hush box looks great btw.

Jeff - yes, I'm going to paint my walls white to match the projector. The room is just too dark and light controlled. May add a window as well.


SO.......you're NOT done.

Just making sure.

actually this is what I had in mind, paint the unit the color of the walls.



Ahhh. Now I get it. And no, I think I'm going to leave it be. I really can't be bothered and the thought of taking the back wall apart really makes the issue a non-started.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/IMG_0324-1.jpg[/QUOTE]

Big - your MS Paint skillz never cease to amaze. :)


Congrats on completing the room, Michael! I've heard from a very reliable source in my office that it's awesome.

Congrats on completing the room, Michael! I've heard from a very reliable source in my office that it's awesome.

Thanks, Chris. The viewing experience going from the flat screen in the den to the theater became even more pronounced when I appropriated the speakers I was using with the TV to fill in as the rear speakers until such time as I can afford to buy the matching Klipschs. The TV speakers are real tinny. Last night while settling in to watch some TV in the theater, my wife turned to me an announced that we were "soooo watching football down here next weekend." i take that as a sign that she likes it.

Still, without the comfy seats, I don't feel that sense of completion quite yet. Hopefully soon.

Where are the pics of the completed screen wall. I wanna see both masking and non masking, please!

Congrats Michael! Enjoy it!

Semi related question:

I have family coming in from out of town and am considering picking up a XBOX360 and Halo3 to keep some of them occupied. I'm not a hardcore gamer so should I bother with the top of the line elite version - I don't play online, and I can't see myself downloading crap onto the xbox either. Any reason not to get the arcade just to play games?

The arcade version has an HDMI connection now which was the big thing on Elite when it first came out besides the black finish.

If you have no plans to download and don't need wireless internet access why bother.

If memory serves me correctly, the 360 elite adds HDMI, which you probably want. The non-elite, at least mine, only has component video.

Semi related question:

I have family coming in from out of town and am considering picking up a XBOX360 and Halo3 to keep some of them occupied. I'm not a hardcore gamer so should I bother with the top of the line elite version - I don't play online, and I can't see myself downloading crap onto the xbox either. Any reason not to get the arcade just to play games?

Why not rent one instead?

The both include an HDMI connector. The Arcade edition is has replaced the Pro edition. The Arcade has HDMI and a no HDD. The Elite has HDMI, a headset, a network cable, and a 120 GB HDD. Older packages of the elite include a HDMI cable, though the newer packages do not. This is not a major selling point for us, as we are all schooled that HDMI cables are dirt cheap, but for the rank and file standing in the store, this is a big deal.

The HDD is worth the extra money IMHO, because before long, you'll want to stream movies across NetFlix using the device, and you'll want to download some game demos/expansion packs, etc. The XBOX makes a great media extender too.

The price difference is $100. If you think you'll use the XBOX much, get the HDD. If not, save $100 and buy a game or two.

CJ

Just get the arcade, for streaming a HD is not required, a HD is only required if you are going to purchase content (additonal maps, movies etc.), but streaming is does not as I have an arcade and stream to it just fine from my nas.

Thanks guys!

Hmmm. I have to rethink how I have my projector set-up. What I thought was the screen shaking during LFE scenes is actually the projector bouncing inside the soffit. Its bugging me, but of course no one else really notices.

I guess ceiling mounting it in the cabinet is an option, however, I didn't brace the ceiling to screw a mount into. And because I need the projector low in the box, if I mount it upside, I won't be able to access the lens shift controls.

And ideas on how to decouple the projector a bit? Perhaps bumpers to put the feet on?

You might Google for turntable isolation solutions.

How about put it on a shelf and hang the shelf from the ceiling with DC04 clips to isolate it? Kind of like the garage door operner mount here http://www.pac-intl.com/decoupled.htm, except with the vertical members going lower so the PJ sits on the shelf. Or you may be able to mount the clips to the sides of your box.

Michael:

What's causing the shake? Does it happen when everyone is in the basement and no one on the floor above? Is the hush box firmly mounted on the wall?

Maybe you can identify the cause of the shake and try to remedy that if possible?

CJ

Michael:

What's causing the shake? Does it happen when everyone is in the basement and no one on the floor above? Is the hush box firmly mounted on the wall?

Maybe you can identify the cause of the shake and try to remedy that if possible?

CJ

Ahhh. It's the sub. It only happen during scenes of extreme bass.

Ahhh. It's the sub. It only happen during scenes of extreme bass.

Are you sure it's the PJ shaking and not you - that subs going to shake pretty much everything.

More seriously maybe these (http://www.vibrapod.com) will help

[Edit] Set of 4 for $24 (http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VBPOD%20%20%20%20%204)

Not sure how much,

http://www.kineticsystems.com/page532.html

Used for delicate equipment.

Not sure how much,

http://www.kineticsystems.com/page532.html

Used for delicate equipment.

Based on a price i saw on a similar devise, an air table runs several thousand dollars. I'm going to use a rubber mat and if that doesn't work give Mark's rubber bumpers a try.

How did you handle the depth of the stained wood backer from the Carlon box. It looks like the fabric is flush with the carlon box.

Do you have a 3/4" depth issue from the fixture Just wondering if an electical inspector is ok with that as I am looking to do something similar to it.

thanks


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0212-2.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0230-1.jpg

When I passed my electrical inspection, only the wires were showing through the drywall. The low profile fan box, the wood backplate and the light fixture weren't installed yet. I have no intention of removing a light fixture during final inspection. In fact I plan on having a movie playing.

Ahh,

Very nice. Awesome build

After another butt numbing evening sitting on patio furniture, I willing to endure the wrath of the "keeper-of-the-purse-strings" and just order real seats. Easiest way to get some backside relief is if I just split the order and get one row for now. That will also allow us to have enough real seats to start hosting friends in limited numbers and have seats for when family visits over the Christmas holidays.

Anyway, I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but as soon as Roman sends me an invoice, I think I will.

Just don't tell my wife. (This means you Chris!)

After another butt numbing evening sitting on patio furniture, I willing to endure the wrath of the "keeper-of-the-purse-strings" and just order real seats. Easiest way to get some backside relief is if I just split the order and get one row for now. That will also allow us to have enough real seats to start hosting friends in limited numbers and have seats for when family visits over the Christmas holidays.

Anyway, I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but as soon as Roman sends me an invoice, I think I will.

Just don't tell my wife. (This means you Chris!)

I was planning on using some old sofas as the theater budget was all spent on theater construction and theater hardware.

During the building of my home theater the Wife and family did not understand the vision until the stage was built and the carpet was installed. But when the Fabric Frame start going up the wife said you are NOT putting any old sofas in this theater. Then she went out and bought the black leather theater recliners.

So there is hope!

It is easier to apolgize than to get permssion.

I have some left over DC04 clips you can have if you want to try that route.

Just let me know.

Then she went out and bought the black leather theater recliners.

So there is hope!

Oh, she is completely on board with the concept and already insists we do most of our TV watching in the room. It's just a matter of timing since we are also going on an expensive ten year anniversary vacation soon. I figured out how to swing it though. So I ordered four seats that will eventually make up the back row. For now they will go where the front row should sit. I'll get the eventual front row after the holidays. Front row will be two 45088's with a game console and the back row (what I ordered today) will we a chair-love seat-chair configuration that can also be rearranged into a love seat-love seat combo. I did it this way since it was a smidge narrower and I didn't want the end seats under a soffet.



It is easier to apologize than to get permission.

I have some left over DC04 clips you can have if you want to try that route.

Just let me know.

i may take you up on that. I just got in the mail the bumper things that Mark linked. I'm going to give those a shot to see if they help tame some of the shaking. I don't expect it to be shake free give the sheer force that the sub produces at high volume. That would require some serious re-engineering.

Speaking of which, I ran Audyssey again now that I have some temporary furniture in the space. It really turned down the levels for all of my speakers. I think the rears are -1 db, the sides -4 db, the fronts -8db and the sub a whopping -13 db. I don't understand the software well enough to judge if this is a good thing or not. It sounds fine most of the time. Initially I set the sub back up to -3 db, but after a rather intense viewing of Iron Man backed it down to -10 dB. It felt like the house was going to come down on us and became tiring after a while. I really need to find my RadioShack meter to check the actual levels at the receiver volume setting that I've been using for movies.

Eventually I'll get to build the HTPC I'll use for the final sound fine tuning. But for now, I'll just need to manually tweak stuff.

Just remember if your front row will eventually be a smaller footprint, that the back row seats may cause indents in your carpet which my not easily go away.

Maybe just place the rear row in the rear to begin with.

Just remember if your front row will eventually be a smaller footprint, that the back row seats may cause indents in your carpet which my not easily go away.

Maybe just place the rear row in the rear to begin with.

Yep. There is that issue. The good news is that I'll have 4-6 weeks to mull it over. the bad news it that I'll have 4-6 weeks to mull it over while sitting in patio chairs that make my ass numb half way through a movie...

Did I mention that my wife sits on a pillow on the floor right now...

Yep. There is that issue. The good news is that I'll have 4-6 weeks to mull it over. the bad news it that I'll have 4-6 weeks to mull it over while sitting in patio chairs that make my ass numb half way through a movie...

Did I mention that my wife sits on a pillow on the floor right now...

I think I would splurge for some bean bag chairs until your seats arrive!

I can't deal with ass numbing seats...

That a good idea In2, some low cost ones can usually be had from Kmart or Wal-Mart. I recently saw some commercials for a swivel bean bag type seat from a local discount furniture store but they're kind of pricey.

http://www.mybobs.com/Creampuff_Accentchairs_Collection.aspx

I can't deal with ass numbing seats...

That a good idea In2, some low cost ones can usually be had from Kmart or Wal-Mart. I recently saw some commercials for a swivel bean bag type seat from a local discount furniture store but they're kind of pricey.

http://www.mybobs.com/Creampuff_Accentchairs_Collection.aspx

A couple of those and it's the price of an actual theater chair. Nope, I'd rather have my wife be uncomfortable and thereby improve the odds that I don't get killed when the comfy seats suddenly show up. :)

She doesn't read your thread?

She doesn't read your thread?

Ohhh, I was just thinking the same thing. :D

Nahhh. On occasion she reads over my shoulder but after falling asleep on the floor to a movie just now, she's heading straight to bed.

What size are your SCC traps? 17" x 17" x 24"?

What were your considerations on (not doing) a floor/dront wall intersection bass trap?

Cheers,
Jacob

What size are your SCC traps? 17" x 17" x 24"?


Correct.

What were your considerations on (not doing) a floor/front wall intersection bass trap?

Cheers,
Jacob

I just followed the instructions of my designer, Bryan Pape. I believe the 4" of OC 703 on the back wall factors heavily into the equation on whether I need more traps or not. If I need more traps, the corner between the front wall and the floor seems like the next likely spot. I won't really know where i am until I test the room using REW. And I'm not going to bother doing that until the seats are in. The seats will significantly impact the audio of the room.

I haven't read your whole thread, so you probably wrote this somewhere:

Do you have 4" OC703 on the whole back wall (and no back wall corner traps?)

Do you have any ceiling treatment?

Jacob

No treatment on the ceiling except behind the screen wall.

Here is the basic treatment design.

Behind the screen wall all surfaces covered with 2" OC703.
1 " OC703 floor to ceiling on the side walsl for the first 1/3 of the room and only up to ear height for the back 2/3.
4" OC703 with scrim on the entire back wall.
Bass traps in the front corners.

ok.

What is the reason for the 4" on back wall vs. back wall corner bass traps?

Jacob

A couple of those and it's the price of an actual theater chair. Nope, I'd rather have my wife be uncomfortable and thereby improve the odds that I don't get killed when the comfy seats suddenly show up. :)

Good Plan. I like the way you think

ok.

What is the reason for the 4" on back wall vs. back wall corner bass traps?

Jacob

I would imagine because his design focuses on more than just taming the lower frequencies. But you really would need to talk to him because he is the one who did the calculations based on my specific room and set up.

It is easier to apolgize than to get permssion.

That's exactly what I thought about living in this rental house. There's no way an owner would approve of a tenant doing what's needed to get a decent home theater.

All I'd have to do is mention painting the ceiling black, and that would be the end of it....NO!

I figure I'll just put it all back to move-in condition when I move out. Until then, they don't need to know about it.

Based on a price i saw on a similar devise, an air table runs several thousand dollars. I'm going to use a rubber mat and if that doesn't work give Mark's rubber bumpers a try.

Did you decide what you are going to do? I was stunned when I looked up how much these air tables cost. Sheesh! Crazy expensive. You could also try that "space age memory foam", that would soak up the vibrations, but might be too thick for your application.

Curious to see what you have come up with.

Regards,

RTROSE

I've fallen a bit behind on my picture taking these last couple of weeks. Seems you have been rubbing off on me. :p

I did use Mark's advise and purchased some bumpers. I installed these over the weekend but had not until this morning really tested just how well they were working.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0381.jpg

They make a few different densities so I got the "#3". Each bumper rates up to around 10 lbs and I use three of them.

Anyway, I put on Master & Commander and played the opening battle scene at rather high listen volume while carefully watching the screen of bounce this morning. I still had a little during a couple of the cannon blasts, but it was barely noticeable when standing right next to the screen. Tonight I'll test with War of the World or something similar with sustained bass.

Here are a few shots of the completed screen wall. In the Russel Crow photos you can see that I don't quite have the image entirely within the screen. There is a smidge of spillover on the top of the screen. This is only noticeable in the photo because of the lengthy exposure while taking the shot. You can't really see it live.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0384.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/mdrueen/IMG_0383.jpg

I also took a couple of photos with the lights on, but for some reason they didn't upload to my photobucket account. I'll post those tonight.