There doesn't seem to be an easy pattern to set contrast on the DVE HD DVD version? For some reason, all DVEs seem to keep using the "bloom" patterns which seem to be antiquated and for CRT based displays. I have other DVD test patterns which have single patterns which you can set brightness/contrast (black and white areas), but DVE just seems to keep using the same old display patterns. Am I missing some material on this disk that makes this easy? Thanks. SJ

Greetings

You are missing something. There is a contrast pattern within the first 3 frames of the test section. The ramp test. that is ths contrast test for digital displays.

Regards

OK. Thanks for the info. SJ

I've been looking at this tonight but I feel like a total noob because I don't understand what's being said. I had no problems with the contrast tests on Avia but DVE is confusing me somewhat. Can you help? How do I go about setting contrast using the DVE HD-DVD? I have an HD73 pj.

Greetings

Setting contrast on a digital display.

Use the grayscale sweep/bar pattern in DVE ... the one with 5% bars going left to right from bright to dark ... and vice versa.

The dotted lines near the white represent 100% white and 105% white ... closer to the outside edge. Increase contrast until the bars start to disappear ... and all blend into the same big white bar.

When this happens ...you have gone too far. This is called white crush/clipping. You lose detail if you don't fix this.

If you can see all the individual bars ... move onto the next step.

Discoloration.

Do the white bars look pink to you? Or red? If so ... then lower contrast even further until the discoloration goes away.

Once you have found this point ... you have the maximum usable contrast setting ... max light output with max detail.

Next up is eye fatigue factors ...

If a 100% white window box pattern now gives you a headache to look at it ... then the contrast is still too bright for your eyes. You need to take it down further and this part is completely subjective.

Depends on how you feel and the time of day ... amongst other factors.

Mind you ... too high contrast often negatively affectst gamma curve performance of the TV ... but you need instrumentation to figure this last part out.

Regards

Beautiful! Now you've explained it it's actually quite simple isn't it?

Thanks!

Jules

Wow, thanks for the information on this! Are there any "simple" explanations of these patterns that DIYs can use (like the ones you just gave us)? Thanks. SJ

Greetings

All I can say is ... pick your pattern and we will try to explain it and how it is used.

Regards

I found this thread as I got the DVE HD DVD for Christmas, and everything was pretty straight forward, except for setting contrast. I wasn't getting the bleeding they described on the disc. I followed Michael's instructions above, but when I turn my Contrast all the way up, I can still see the separate contrast bars. And they all stay white, no discoloration. I know 100% contrast is probably too high, but without seeing a definite sweet spot from the disc, I don't know where to set it. 50%, 75%, 100%? I too am a perfectionist, and want to make sure I'm setting my TV to its best settings. It's a 51" Sony rear-projection HDTV.

Greetings

51" RPTV as in CRT based?

IF you are a perfectionist, then a pro level calibration would have to enter your field of view too. :)

As with another currently active post in this section ... CRT contrast is set with a light meter and a 100% white windowbox pattern. You need to achieve about 20-25fL of light output. Also taking into account how the lenticular screen messes up the actual reading of the light meter.

Without instruments ... use the windowbox and set contrast to where it does not look fatiguing to look at. Having followed the other rules described.

Regards

Greetings

51" RPTV as in CRT based?

IF you are a perfectionist, then a pro level calibration would have to enter your field of view too. :)

I know, I know. That's why I mentioned that it's a RPTV. I'm a perfectionist, considering what I can afford to own. I'm never satisfied, unless I know I've set it to the best picture it can possibly produce.

Greetings

Setting contrast on a digital display.

Use the grayscale sweep/bar pattern in DVE ... the one with 5% bars going left to right from bright to dark ... and vice versa.

The dotted lines near the white represent 100% white and 105% white ... closer to the outside edge. Increase contrast until the bars start to disappear ... and all blend into the same big white bar.

When this happens ...you have gone too far. This is called white crush/clipping. You lose detail if you don't fix this.

If you can see all the individual bars ... move onto the next step.

Discoloration.

Do the white bars look pink to you? Or red? If so ... then lower contrast even further until the discoloration goes away.

Once you have found this point ... you have the maximum usable contrast setting ... max light output with max detail.

Next up is eye fatigue factors ...

If a 100% white window box pattern now gives you a headache to look at it ... then the contrast is still too bright for your eyes. You need to take it down further and this part is completely subjective.

Depends on how you feel and the time of day ... amongst other factors.

Mind you ... too high contrast often negatively affectst gamma curve performance of the TV ... but you need instrumentation to figure this last part out.

Regards
Great stuff Michael. Ultimately, it came down to the subjective eye fatigue test for me. Viewing the 100% white box, it seems setting contrast around 85/100 gives me a good white level without eye discomfort.

Thanks!

I wrote this in another thread but it seems it would fit in here as well.



On a digital display that does not exibit color shift or clipping on maxed out contrast settings the image can take on a funky/digital look. What I have found to work quite well is to put up a gray ramp, turn contrast all the way down, then raise it slowley untill the white sector of the ramp is... well white compared to the next graduation of gray and also that it follows equally the luminence steps/pattern of the rest of the ramp. If the white sector jumps out at you when looking at the ramp its probably too high, if its indistinguishable from the gray next to it then its too low.


Kevin