I purchased a Spyder2Express and got it working with HCFR yesterday. After calibrating my monitors (which is fully automatic) I began to try to calibrate my Samsung HL-S6187W RPDLP set using Avia as the generator software through an Xbox 360 as the DVD player hooked up component. I started with Eliab's base setting and then measured greyscale at all IRE increments. Here are my questions:

1. How far should the sensor be from the screen for a DLP RP set? Is directly touching it fine?

2. The color temperature chart showed that the set averaged around 8000 across all IRE's at the Warm 2 setting. If my reading is correct below 6500 is considered warmer (redder) and above is considered cooler (bluer)? The other settings just made matters worse (cooler). What controls do I have without getting into the service menu to bring the color temperature down further?

3. Lastly the RGB chart showed that blue was 20-30% higher across all IRE levels than red or green, which was basically flat across the 100% target line above 30IRE. I assume that this accounts for the color temerature shift above 6500 in the color temperature chart?

4. Lastly I have a control called My Color Control that allows you to shift the colors, however, lowering blue down to 0 from 50 did not appear to shift down blue much at all on the RGB chart. What is this control actually doing.

That should be enough for now. I actually purchased this to be able to calibrate my Mitsubishi HC-5000BL 1080p projector, but I thought I would start with the DLP first to learn. I know my projector has individual R,G,B brightness and contrast adjustments along the game curve to help dial it in. Thanks for any help that you can give me at the beginning of this journey.

Yes, the extra blue is causing the high temps.

The TV will refer to redder colors as warm and blue-ish colors as cool, but it's actually the other way around. Blue is hot and red is cool. If there is too much blue, Spyder will say that the temp is too high/hot.

Adjusting those "My color controls" was probably adjusting the color saturation for each color. What you are trying to adjust is the grayscale, which is unnaffected by color saturation. Your grayscale is a bit too hot. 8,000k isn't actually that bad(mine came from factory with a scorching 22,000k), but aside from going into the service menu, I doubt you'll be able to fix it.

Also, you are using a very flawed method. Avia's grayscale patterns are inaccurate as well as the 360's DVD output. Try using a different DVD player with DVE or GetGray, or use a neutral gray still image displayed with the 360's photo viewer.

Greetings

Eliab's base setting. Does that mean that it was already calibrated by Eliab?

The spyder probes are not considered a good match for DLP sets. The readings can be off by quite a bit. You need a spectrometer device to do grayscale on a DLP set.

Regards

Thanks for the information guys. I read a lot more today as well as I had the benefit from all the work last night. I did buy GetGray as well today and love it. It works much better than Avia. My new numbers are very similar, but the RGB curve is much flatter this time with Blue still being way high at around 120% with Red and Green around 97% across all IRE's. I still used on the Xbox360 though. Why is the output bad on the 360?

My colorspace on the CIE diagram shows Blue at .151,.049 DE=34, Green at .286,.584 DE=8.5 and Red at .624,.320 DE=11.8. Can I adjust these points with the My color adjustments and which way should I be thinking about how to move the points to the Rec 709 standard points?

Lastly my luminance chart shows above the curve in normal mode or low in logrithm mode with an average of 1.72. What is the best way to move this up. I used Get Gray to adjust he Brightness and Contrast as well as saturation/hue before using HCFR, but the Contrast did not seem to work like the disc explained as the +2/+5 bars never really fully disappeared. My contrast is pegged right now at 100 although I believe Elaib said to use around 0 in a post somewhere. And no Elaib did not calibrate my unit I was just quoting a post of his. Also does anybody know how hard it is to adjust the blue down in the service menu for a Samsung HL-S6187W 1080p set? I am not too afraid of trying it as I have gotten into my old Hitachi being very careful to write everything down before changing things and had no problems.

Thanks again for all the help.