From the Westinghouse 47tx webpage, recently added..........

accepts a 1080p/24Hz signal

I guess the no sound and no input detected box (but with picture behind it) issue I have at 24hz was from the PS3.

I have the same issue with 24hz.Maybe they are getting ready to release a firmware update that trully anables that support

Well dang, I'm just not sure what to think now -- I've went back about 10 pages to read thru all the posts, trying to decide if I should drops a few bucks on a 42" TX. I know it is not the best PQ around, but it represent a pretty good bang for the buck, but is it problematic.

I'm trying to decide if I this is a problem prone model or not, it's really hard to tell.

well i'm super happy with my tv.You can get a sharp too 42

Thinking about buy 360 vga cable. Have a question about the audio. The back of the tv has a mini input for the audio. The xbox vga adapter has normal rca plugs. How do you hook up the audio. I don't have a stereo so the optical plug is out.

thanks for the help

Thinking about buy 360 vga cable. Have a question about the audio. The back of the tv has a mini input for the audio. The xbox vga adapter has normal rca plugs. How do you hook up the audio. I don't have a stereo so the optical plug is out.

thanks for the help

Any Y-Adapter will do. Here is what they look like.

RadioShack Gold Series Audio Y-Adapter
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103710&cp=&sr=1&origkw=rca+audio&kw=rca+audio&parentPage=search

Oh, well thanks for the info on the TX/747i LCD panels xcalibur. Very interesting.

bhazard, I'm kind of a newb and only changed settings at two places. First, I just put the Wii to "widescreen" mode from the wii settings. Then I just set the TV to overscan. There are two bars on the side from the game and not just blank black bars from the TV.

I'll post some pictures of the Wii and I'll have a PS3 in two days and I'll also post my pixel problem for the experts to analyze.

Thinking about buy 360 vga cable. Have a question about the audio. The back of the tv has a mini input for the audio. The xbox vga adapter has normal rca plugs. How do you hook up the audio. I don't have a stereo so the optical plug is out.

thanks for the help

Its been recommended that you buy the Microsoft VGA cable as it appears to be the one that gives the best picture reading about it and the adapter comes with it as well.

Oh, well thanks for the info on the TX/747i LCD panels xcalibur. Very interesting.

bhazard, I'm kind of a newb and only changed settings at two places. First, I just put the Wii to "widescreen" mode from the wii settings. Then I just set the TV to overscan. There are two bars on the side from the game and not just blank black bars from the TV.

I'll post some pictures of the Wii and I'll have a PS3 in two days and I'll also post my pixel problem for the experts to analyze.

for the Wii i find its best to select the 16:9 option, then use the Fill option to fill the whole screen. Certain games which for whatever reason are only 4:3 must be set in the Wii menu as 4:3, then stretched later. If you attempt to set it at 16:9 in a game that doesn't have a true WS mode, it ends with black bars no matter the settings. Luckily only Mario Party 8 is affected as far as my library goes, but its strange since even the included Wii Sports and even Wii Play work and have a true 16:9 mode, boo to lazy developers

for the Wii i find its best to select the 16:9 option, then use the Fill option to fill the whole screen. Certain games which for whatever reason are only 4:3 must be set in the Wii menu as 4:3, then stretched later. If you attempt to set it at 16:9 in a game that doesn't have a true WS mode, it ends with black bars no matter the settings. Luckily only Mario Party 8 is affected as far as my library goes, but its strange since even the included Wii Sports and even Wii Play work and have a true 16:9 mode, boo to lazy developers

I thought Fill mode was best at first too, but 4:3 mode on Wii and "Standard" makes the best picture. This tv doesn't have a true 16x9 stretch mode, so some of the pic is still cut off (and it just doesn't look as good). If you can't live with black bars, then fill is the next best option. Overscan will cut off over half the picture.

I decided to return my TV to the retailer and not get another Westinghouse. Westinghouse is rediculous as they told me they don't send techs out and on top of that they wanted me to drive my TV over an hour to get the stand fixed. Sorry but I don't have a van or a truck. They also tried to claimed the screen problems and the forward leaning issues were from shipping damage even though I told them the box looked fine and the shock monitors were not triggered! The ghosting on my set was horrible over VGA I noticed, so bad I would call it unacceptable.

Thank goodness the retailer has enough goodness in them to take this TV back and work with Westinghouse on their end. I have decided to go with the Samsung LED DLP as an alternative as I don't want anymore hassels with stuck pixels and such and Samsung is much better at fixing problems instead of blaming other things. I am really happy though for all of you who got sets that didn't have any issues cause I really like the way the TV looks and the picture itself over HDMI and component. Hopefully you won't ever have to deal with Westinghouse Customer Service, they must be told to tell you anything that clears them of any responsibility.

I thought Fill mode was best at first too, but 4:3 mode on Wii and "Standard" makes the best picture. This tv doesn't have a true 16x9 stretch mode, so some of the pic is still cut off (and it just doesn't look as good). If you can't live with black bars, then fill is the next best option. Overscan will cut off over half the picture.

hmm..looking at the Wii menu it seemed okay, I didn't notice much cutoff at all

(post deleted)

I decided to return my TV to the retailer and not get another Westinghouse. Westinghouse is rediculous as they told me they don't send techs out and on top of that they wanted me to drive my TV over an hour to get the stand fixed. Sorry but I don't have a van or a truck. They also tried to claimed the screen problems and the forward leaning issues were from shipping damage even though I told them the box looked fine and the shock monitors were not triggered! The ghosting on my set was horrible over VGA I noticed, so bad I would call it unacceptable.

Thank goodness the retailer has enough goodness in them to take this TV back and work with Westinghouse on their end. I have decided to go with the Samsung LED DLP as an alternative as I don't want anymore hassels with stuck pixels and such and Samsung is much better at fixing problems instead of blaming other things. I am really happy though for all of you who got sets that didn't have any issues cause I really like the way the TV looks and the picture itself over HDMI and component. Hopefully you won't ever have to deal with Westinghouse Customer Service, they must be told to tell you anything that clears them of any responsibility.

I dont know, Havent seen any other TX's to see but mine has the lean as well, Doesnt bother me much, Kind of looks normal to me, Might not be but I dont see it as that big of a deal its not like its going to tip over or anything.
LCD's are always going to have the stuck pixel issues. Mine has 2 and every LCD I have ever bought has them, Too small to even notice unless your looking for them, But in all honesty if your just going to use it to watch TV any TV Tech will be fine for you. Went LCD because I also use it as my main Computer monitor.

Well, sitting here tonight, dozing off to Discovery HD, the screen went blank.
Funny that I thought.
So I go and hit the power button, and nothing.
I hit it again. nothing
I use the remote's power button, nothing.
I unplug it, let the amber light go dark, plug it back in, and nothing.
I dig up AVS forum where I read about how awsome the tv is before I bought it last month, and all of a sudden everyone is talking about how it locks up.

*sigh*.

Has there been any new progress about this issue?
Did Westinghouse reply to the letter that I saw was being written?
Did it get sent even?

My GF through out the box and packaging material to the TV before I realized what was going on, so... returning it is going to be a bitch. (thank god for Best Buy Insurance though)

Thoughts?

Thank you.

;11466567']Well, sitting here tonight, dozing off to Discovery HD, the screen went blank.
Funny that I thought.
So I go and hit the power button, and nothing.
I hit it again. nothing
I use the remote's power button, nothing.
I unplug it, let the amber light go dark, plug it back in, and nothing.
I dig up AVS forum where I read about how awsome the tv is before I bought it last month, and all of a sudden everyone is talking about how it locks up.

*sigh*.

Has there been any new progress about this issue?
Did Westinghouse reply to the letter that I saw was being written?
Did it get sent even?

My GF through out the box and packaging material to the TV before I realized what was going on, so... returning it is going to be a bitch. (thank god for Best Buy Insurance though)

Thoughts?

Thank you.

Whoa, thats what happened to mine two weeks ago. I turned it off to run some errans, returned home and couldn't get the bloody thing to turn on, I even unplug the power waited for 5 minutes, plugged it back in and still nothing. I didn't want to deal with the trouble and calling BB for someone to come out. I took it off my wall and went to BB and returned it. I got me a better TV and very happy about my new TV. Its a Samsung LNT4061F.

;11466567']
Has there been any new progress about this issue?
Did Westinghouse reply to the letter that I saw was being written?
Did it get sent even?

Hi all, haven't dropped in for a while as I got called away on a business trip....

Haven't forgot about the letter - I think the main issues have all been recorded (see the first post for the list) - after the long weekend I will write up a draft, post it here for feedback, and then we'll get it sent off to Westinghouse.

Not sure how much good it will do though considering how every time someone calls Westinghouse with a known problem (such as the lockup of death which is happening to more and more people), they simply say that they never heard of it before and tell you to return the set to BB.

Certainly worth a shot though... however, if they do actually release a firmware update in the future that fixes some issues but removes the ability to pass through 5.1 audio from HDMI, I might actually NOT upgrade.

On another note, I actually own 2 Westys now - just picked up a refurbed LVM-37w3 from ecost for an absolute steal to be used as a computer monitor... so far so good, the picture is amazing!

Hi all, haven't dropped in for a while as I got called away on a business trip....

Haven't forgot about the letter - I think the main issues have all been recorded (see the first post for the list) - after the long weekend I will write up a draft, post it here for feedback, and then we'll get it sent off to Westinghouse.

Not sure how much good it will do though considering how every time someone calls Westinghouse with a known problem (such as the lockup of death which is happening to more and more people), they simply say that they never heard of it before and tell you to return the set to BB.

Certainly worth a shot though... however, if they do actually release a firmware update in the future that fixes some issues but removes the ability to pass through 5.1 audio from HDMI, I might actually NOT upgrade.

On another note, I actually own 2 Westys now - just picked up a refurbed LVM-37w3 from ecost for an absolute steal to be used as a computer monitor... so far so good, the picture is amazing!

Is there any value to starting an online petition for Westy to come out with a firmware update? I would say they can't abandon a product with support like they have.

Certainly worth a shot though... however, if they do actually release a firmware update in the future that fixes some issues but removes the ability to pass through 5.1 audio from HDMI, I might actually NOT upgrade.



I have the same feeling. I haven't heard of any tv that can pass all of its audio, even 5.1 via HDMI through its optical port (because of HDMI restrictions). It seems they already removed the ability on the june built models.

I have the same feeling. I haven't heard of any tv that can pass all of its audio, even 5.1 via HDMI through its optical port (because of HDMI restrictions). It seems they already removed the ability on the june built models.

Classic! Instead of fixing bugs with the new firmware, they remove features :confused:

lol you forgot that they also removed the already non functioning PIP from the menu as well

I have the same issue with 24hz.Maybe they are getting ready to release a firmware update that trully anables that support

Are you just using the TV Speakers cause if there's just no sound out of the TV and the Picture works I'm fine with that as I'll be using my Reciever for the sound. I'll be able to test it out Once the XA2 1080/24p upgrade comes in a week or so.

lol apparently the mods deleted a bunch of posts yesterday..well I just tried it today and the girl said the system wouldn't let her do it so its a no go

Are you just using the TV Speakers cause if there's just no sound out of the TV and the Picture works I'm fine with that as I'll be using my Reciever for the sound. I'll be able to test it out Once the XA2 1080/24p upgrade comes in a week or so.

For me, the picture works, but the "no input detected" box that you normally see when the is no picture overlays the picture.

It also wont pass sound at all in the 24hz mode, neither to my receiver (from the tv's passthrough) or my tv speakers. Running optical direct to your receiver still might not get rid of the "no input detected" box though, i'll have to try it later.

Well I'm down to the last 2 days of being able to pick up the BB warranty or return it for something else, Don't like seeing 2 sets that died just a few posts back, Still think I'm going to roll the dice though. Sounds to me that BB ends up taking these back even if you don't have the warranty as they are Westinghouse's IN-home support. There just isn't anything close to this TV in price at BB for what you get. Also found out that the stutter in the ticker at the bottom of the screen was cured by a TV reboot. Just hope that doesn't become a common thing that I have to do all the time.

Do TVs have a break-in period where the picture actually improves? I like my TX42 more than ever.

One issue that I had were soft pops when viewing DVD. That issue has gone away by itself; I am not getting the pops anymore! I wonder if that was due to static or something related?

I also just complete my HT setup where I don't have to play sound thru the TV but feed my HT reciever thru thr SPIDF of my DVD player. If the popping returns I can use the HT sound and speakers if necessary.

All in all, this TV was a free replacement for my 42w2 and I love it so far!

Well I know how to get the pops back, Do a reboot of the TV, Just noticed them again, Rebooted from the slight ticker stutter and now I'm getting the low pops again. Very occasional.

;11466567']


My GF through out the box and packaging material to the TV before I realized what was going on, so... returning it is going to be a bitch. (thank god for Best Buy Insurance though)

Thoughts?

Thank you.

You can return it without the box. I did. They didn't even blink.

xnappo

Well I'm down to the last 2 days of being able to pick up the BB warranty or return it for something else, Don't like seeing 2 sets that died just a few posts back, Still think I'm going to roll the dice though. Sounds to me that BB ends up taking these back even if you don't have the warranty as they are Westinghouse's IN-home support. There just isn't anything close to this TV in price at BB for what you get. Also found out that the stutter in the ticker at the bottom of the screen was cured by a TV reboot. Just hope that doesn't become a common thing that I have to do all the time.

is the in home support only for 47"? I recall seeing on the warranty something about 46"+, which is strange since i have the 42

Can you update firmware thru the usb?

Well I know how to get the pops back, Do a reboot of the TV, Just noticed them again, Rebooted from the slight ticker stutter and now I'm getting the low pops again. Very occasional.

Interesting. Make a note when the pops stop again.

how long does it take to get an image when powering on from e-save mode vs normal mode?

is the in home support only for 47"? I recall seeing on the warranty something about 46"+, which is strange since i have the 42

Yep thats what the warranty states, So you have to ship it out for a 42 or take it to wherever there is a service center.

Interesting. Make a note when the pops stop again.

Yea will do.

Yep thats what the warranty states, So you have to ship it out for a 42 or take it to wherever there is a service center.

I didn't understand at first exactly what you guys were talking about regarding the Best Buy Performance Service Plan or the Westinghouse Warranty.

This is the breakdown for those (like me) who were confused looking at those posts.

Best Buy Performance Protection Plan - IN HOUSE on TV's 25" and larger

Westinghouse warranty - IN HOUSE on TV's 46" and larger

And if you have the Best Buy plan that is in effect from day one, it is not added to the end of the Westy warranty. So if you have the BB plan then it has in home service.

i dont know if this is an issue that anyone else has had (i did try and search the thread with no results) but when i feed it a 720p signal or put in in 1024X768 the screen gets shifted and cut off a few hundred pxls to the left however that is the only resolution that that happens in. i have tried it via component and vga my dvi->hdmi adapter should come in next week so i can try it with a digital signal but i dont know if that will make a difference. just got the tv so dreading the possibility of having to return it. thanks in advance

i dont know if this is an issue that anyone else has had (i did try and search the thread with no results) but when i feed it a 720p signal or put in in 1024X768 the screen gets shifted and cut off a few hundred pxls to the left however that is the only resolution that that happens in. i have tried it via component and vga my dvi->hdmi adapter should come in next week so i can try it with a digital signal but i dont know if that will make a difference. just got the tv so dreading the possibility of having to return it. thanks in advance

I assume you are feeding the TV a computer signal? If so, there are settings for the graphics card where you can adjust the screen location left-right-up-down.

Thanks for the speedy reply, i have the same problem through both vga (have tried both 360 and pc) and component (tried both as well) and as far as screen adjustment (adjusted from both the tv and input source) i can squeeze a little more screen out of it but the image cuts off. About 2-3 start-bars width gets cut, sorry if thats kinda vague. I might be able to post some pics this evening im sure that'd help.

Sorry don't know what to tell you, I don't have a solution. Maybe someone else does, but good luck.

Hey folks.. (did a search, didn't find anything on mt150) ...

I got Westinghouse's universal mount which is for the TX-47 ... the documentation says all the different screws to use for different televisions .. including a huge list of Westinghouse models.

Unfortunately, the list is dated 9/06 and thus doesn't include info for the TX-47.

I sat on hold for a good long time with Customer Support today.. and they were absolutely useless.

The chart in the back has the following fields:
Manufacturer Screen Size Model Screw Size Screw Length Washer Spacer Notes


So basically I'm looking for (paying attention to the fields starting with screw size)

M4 12 Washer None 6

(Those are the options for the LVM-47w1).

Anyone have any experience with this... or have an updated Installation and Assembly manual for the MT150 thin?

I'm sure it could probably be figured out with some common sense.. but I'd prefer to know what the recommended settings are.

Thanks

-MirclMax

Take all your screw packs and do the following:

1. Find a screw that threads in properly.

2. Find a screw that threads in properly and can go in all the way - do not force anything. If the screw "bottoms out" in the TV before being all the way (or at least close to all the way) in, then you need a shorter screw.

Ed

My TX47 has a slight lean as well, just took it as normal.

It *is* normal. The stripped screw is not, but the stand is designed to have the TV angled like that.

Ed

God this TX 47" is just great and I wish I didn't have these few white pixels or I wouldn't have to exchange for a new set.

Actually i'm not sure if they're dead pixels. They're not there when the TV is off but when there's a dark scene or a 'no input found' channel you can see them it's like the backlight just goes right through. Very very tiny, you can't see them more than a foot away but still it's a defect :( Anyone know what these are for sure? I'll try to post a picture later.

Dude...take a deep breath. Do you watch TV from a foot away?

Damn near every LCD out there is going to have some stuck pixels. Stuck white is the most noticeable kind, granted, but seriously...how much time do you plan on spending one foot away from the TV, watching the "No Input" screen? Is it worth taking the risk that you'll get a set with more stuck pixels, or bad mura, or some other defect (lockups)? If the set is otherwise good, AND if these pixels are not clumped together or right in the middle of the screen, AND if you have to be on top of the TV looking for them to see them...fuhgeddaboudit.

Ed

i dont know if this is an issue that anyone else has had (i did try and search the thread with no results) but when i feed it a 720p signal or put in in 1024X768 the screen gets shifted and cut off a few hundred pxls to the left however that is the only resolution that that happens in. i have tried it via component and vga my dvi->hdmi adapter should come in next week so i can try it with a digital signal but i dont know if that will make a difference. just got the tv so dreading the possibility of having to return it. thanks in advance

What res is the 720p signal you are sending? 1024x768 is not a widescreen resolution.

What res is the 720p signal you are sending? 1024x768 is not a widescreen resolution.

i think 720p is the resolution (since im feeding it through only choice are 480p/i 720p or 1080p/i) but it is a widescreen signal i am passing and i am aware that 1024X768 is not wide screen but that should not matter since the manual lists it as a compatible resolution

how long does it take to get an image when powering on from e-save mode vs normal mode?

~23 seconds in E-Save.

Havent really tried normal mode, but I think it is almost instant (1-2 seconds.)

I just purchased the TX-42F430S for my bedroom and am looking for a good wall mount for this TV. Probably just looking for a low profile one that keeps the TV close to the wall and maybe allows a little tilt. When I have searched a few websites I can't find the suggested mount for this model. Suggestions please ... models/price and where to buy ... would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MirclMax
Hey folks.. (did a search, didn't find anything on mt150) ...

I got Westinghouse's universal mount which is for the TX-47 ... the documentation says all the different screws to use for different televisions .. including a huge list of Westinghouse models.

Unfortunately, the list is dated 9/06 and thus doesn't include info for the TX-47.

I sat on hold for a good long time with Customer Support today.. and they were absolutely useless.

The chart in the back has the following fields:
Manufacturer Screen Size Model Screw Size Screw Length Washer Spacer Notes


So basically I'm looking for (paying attention to the fields starting with screw size)

M4 12 Washer None 6

(Those are the options for the LVM-47w1).

Anyone have any experience with this... or have an updated Installation and Assembly manual for the MT150 thin?

I'm sure it could probably be figured out with some common sense.. but I'd prefer to know what the recommended settings are.

Thanks

Take all your screw packs and do the following:

1. Find a screw that threads in properly.

2. Find a screw that threads in properly and can go in all the way - do not force anything. If the screw "bottoms out" in the TV before being all the way (or at least close to all the way) in, then you need a shorter screw.

Ed


If you choose to do that, make sure the TV is unpluged from the wall.

Even then I would not recommend doing that - I've used 30mm bolt to try that and I've short circuited my previous TX (which I think was bizzare, the screw hole should not be near any critical components and be able to touch them. It didn't actually seem to have touched anything, but it did get close enough to conduct electricity it seems).

If I remember correctly I've used M6-16mm bolts (for the VESA 200 holes). I would be careful using anything longer than 16mm. When I've talked to Westinghouse they've recommended 12mm bolts (which I think seem way too short).

I just purchased the TX-42F430S for my bedroom and am looking for a good wall mount for this TV. Probably just looking for a low profile one that keeps the TV close to the wall and maybe allows a little tilt. When I have searched a few websites I can't find the suggested mount for this model. Suggestions please ... models/price and where to buy ... would be appreciated.

Thanks.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&style=

I think that even the http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=3611&seq=1&format=2&style= would work, although it says for upto 37 inch TVs. I bet the one that says 37-63 inches would be slightly visible behind the TV.

But don't fret using a monoprice mount. I'm using one, many other people on the forum are as well.

I just purchased the TX-42F430S for my bedroom and am looking for a good wall mount for this TV. Probably just looking for a low profile one that keeps the TV close to the wall and maybe allows a little tilt. When I have searched a few websites I can't find the suggested mount for this model. Suggestions please ... models/price and where to buy ... would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm using the one in the picture attached, it is "rated" for TV's up to 37", but the weight limit is what's important, and it is rated at 80lbs. The TV without the stand is less than this, it allows for easy access to the back of the TV especially since all the connections are on the sides of the spine.

The 47" Westinghouse uses a 200X200mm VESA pattern, and inside of that is a 100X100mm VESA pattern. The 42" Westinghouse has a 75X75mm pattern inside a 100X100mm pattern.

The lowest-profile mount I have seen is this one: http://www.amazon.com/Vantage-Point-AX2WL01B-Mount-100mm/dp/B00081I788
...which puts the TV just 1/2" from the wall, and works with TVs up to 100 lbs. With the spine design that Westinghouse uses for cabling, this low profile works fine.

The most significant consideration with this Vantage mount is that the center row of holes must be placed over a wall stud, which may mean you cannot center the TV exactly where you wish. Other mounts exist that incorporate a seperate plate for the wall and another plate for the TV with a rail system in between to allow horizontal centering and both horizontal and vertical tilt, but these place the TV up to 2" from the wall and cost more. The Vantage mount includes a wedge that will tilt the panel 5 degrees, but this is optionally installed when mounting the unit, it's not really adjustable.

When it comes to wall mounting flat panels, I live in earthquake country, so I tend to err on the side of caution. When a TV offers dual mounting patterns like the Westinghouse, and both patterns line up with the mount, I use all eight screws not just four. If the mount allows five screws into the wall stud, I use five screws not two or three. For wood studs I use 3" self-drilling steel screws, so not to split the stud.

I got the XP-150 wall mount. It had a big plat with a sliding track so you could mount the plat on your studs, then center the TV where you want it. After looking at that Mount you got from amazon, I can see why you were limited in your location. You had to go on the stud. I felt like I had been cheated getting the wrong mount and having to make it work, but then after seeing what you got, I feel lucky, as I got a perfectly centered TV when I was done. I can put together a drawing if anyone is interested. The set is wall mounted in my bedroom as well.

I'm the happy owner of a TX-42F430S I got a Best Buy a few weeks ago. They had it on sale. I'd never heard of the model, but seeing it on sale, I check it out and saw some good review on CNET from E3 and after the frustration of not being able to find a well rated model I could afford, I just gave up and bought this one. I've very happy with the unit. I did have a bit of trouble finding the wall mount. The website listed a mount for an older model that I found and ordered. It turned out not to be a match for the spine of the TX. I was able to modify and use the mount (I'm that kind of person). They have since fixed the website and removed the incorrect listing.

Considering all the worthless advice I've been given by sales people in Best Buy and Circuit City, I feel totally pleased with my purchase of a set based solely on a sales price and 10 minutes of online research and a C/Net review. I realize it was total dumb luck that I ended up with a set that has some excellent specs, but I have that luck and got one!

I understand the advantages of an adjustable mount, but the request was for a low profile and tilt, not adjustability. The thing about 16" centered residential studs is that you are never more than 8" away horizontally from where you want to be. Vantage does make other mounts as well as an optional stud plate for the one I specified, which allows you to center it anywhere between two studs, but it increases the space between wall and HDTV. But if you can allow a little leeway in the horizontal placement, the Vantage AX2WL01B allows placement only 1/2" from the wall, and won't shake and crumple as do many adjustable mounts during earth tremors. All for $25.

Alternatively, if you are opening the wall to conceal cables and run power for the TV, it is simple to bridge between two studs with a 2x8 which allows placement of the AX2WL01B anywhere between the studs. And you DO have to open the wall to conceal wires the correct and legal way, since the electrical code forbids you to run the supplied power cord in a stud cavity. Failure to use the correct AC receptacle and type of wire may give grounds for your insurance to deny coverage for your entire house following a fire.

I understand the advantages of an adjustable mount, but the request was for a low profile and tilt, not adjustability. The thing about 16" centered residential studs is that you are never more than 8" away horizontally from where you want to be. Vantage does make other mounts as well as an optional stud plate for the one I specified, which allows you to center it anywhere between two studs, but it increases the space between wall and HDTV. But if you can allow a little leeway in the horizontal placement, the Vantage AX2WL01B allows placement only 1/2" from the wall, and won't shake and crumple as do many adjustable mounts during earth tremors. All for $25.

Alternatively, if you are opening the wall to conceal cables and run power for the TV, it is simple to bridge between two studs with a 2x8 which allows placement of the AX2WL01B anywhere between the studs. And you DO have to open the wall to conceal wires the correct and legal way, since the electrical code forbids you to run the supplied power cord in a stud cavity. Failure to use the correct AC receptacle and type of wire may give grounds for your insurance to deny coverage for your entire house following a fire.
I'm looking for a mount that I can adjust on the wall to match up to where my studs are, then be able to center my TV on the mount ... adjusting a rail or something. What mount could I get to do that? The other thing I would like is the ability to tilt it a bit as well. It doesn't have to be a snug fit on the wall ... I just don't want it sticking out too far. I have one of those arm mounts for a TV I have in my basement and it's slick, but I don't need that for my bedroom.

I'm looking for a mount that I can adjust on the wall to match up to where my studs are, then be able to center my TV on the mount ... adjusting a rail or something. What mount could I get to do that? The other thing I would like is the ability to tilt it a bit as well. It doesn't have to be a snug fit on the wall ... I just don't want it sticking out too far. I have one of those arm mounts for a TV I have in my basement and it's slick, but I don't need that for my bedroom.

The two low-price suppliers are Monoprice and Vantage Point. Monoprice actually ships a variety of Chinese-made stuff, and I once received different hardware after I ordered the same mount a couple of months apart - and the new one didn't match the web page. So I started ordering Vantage Point which is a brand name, also Chinese-made.

Here's an adjustable/tilting mount that fits both the 42" and 47" Westinghouse TVs:
http://www.amazon.com/Vantage-Point-U42B-42-inch-Monitors/dp/B000FL90VE******sr_1_20/102-3772209-1048909?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1188594811&sr=1-20

If you want instant gratification, both Circuit City and Best Buy sell the Sanus line. It will cost a little more but it's good stuff. However, you want to make sure you use the studs, especially in a seismic zone like California. I would not mount anything larger than a 19" using hollow wall anchors. Strength-wise, the flat plates are strongest, the articulated arms weakest, and the tilting mounts are in-between. Given a choice between two mounts that cover the same weight range as the set, usually the one with 150+ lb rated capacity is preferable and sags less.

I didn't understand at first exactly what you guys were talking about regarding the Best Buy Performance Service Plan or the Westinghouse Warranty.

This is the breakdown for those (like me) who were confused looking at those posts.

Best Buy Performance Protection Plan - IN HOUSE on TV's 25" and larger

Westinghouse warranty - IN HOUSE on TV's 46" and larger

And if you have the Best Buy plan that is in effect from day one, it is not added to the end of the Westy warranty. So if you have the BB plan then it has in home service.
does this in house warranty deal apply to canada as well?

hello, found your site through googling. i appreciate the already huge amount of help in reviewing these hdtvs. these are exactly the two tvs im looking to get (lvm or the tx 47").

really whats stressing me out is i cant figure out if i will be able to play my uk xbox on these HDs. i have a specific xbox game that will only play on my "UK" xbox. :( i got this game years ago, and have never gotten to play it. actually got it for the ps2 first, and hoping the xbox could play it, i bought it again (XBMC).

i wanna say i read somewhere that most hdtvs play both PAL/NTSC signals. i downloaded the manuals for both tvs (lvm and the tx 47"). im assuming im looking at the vertical hold fh: 30-80KHz, fv: 50-75 Hz. is that 50 Hz what im looking for? :o

it would mean the world if i could get this game to play. aside from the HD "revolution" i would like to be able to play this PAL signal through one of these NTSC sets. :confused:

also, which one supports a better mid range computer resolution. anyone gotten 1366x768 with either one? which one supports a more natural mid-range resolution (1280x768)

Your help is ever so much appreciated :)


!

I have a fourth theory. At one time I used the 3-cable component connection (RGB) to my cable box then installed an HDMI cable but left the 3- cable component connection in place. I also used an HDMI connection for the DVD player. Recently, I removed the 3- cable component cables from the cable box and TX42. After that I noticed no pops from the HDMI-DVD connection. I wonder if that could be related?
Unfortunately i dont think your fourth theory is true becuase I have experienced this sound popping issue via my Philips upscaling Dvd player and HDMI1 connection without any component cables connected but becuase i got this issue once or twice in the past in addition to sometimes getting no video picture when changing to HDMI1 input i decided to purchase a set of component cables as a backup to my HDMI cxn and honestly the picture and sound quality and not a huge difference when flicking between inputs to test this issue out and trying to replicate it. Touch wood popping issue has not returned yet even when playing the exact same DVD it cropped up on. Thx, Steve from NoVA.

Got an optical cable earlier this week, and I can confirm the HDMI-to-S/PDIF passthrough issue on the 5112_1.3.0 firmware (build date June 26 2007). Feeding from a DirecTV HR20 via HDMI Input 1, there is no audio passthrough at all to S/PDIF on any channels. 2-channel OTA audio gets sent down, but I have not watched any OTA programming yet that I know is transmitted in 5.1 to see if that gets passed through. Will report back once I do.

Someone earlier mentioned a HDMI/HDCP flag that could be preventing this; can anyone confirm whether or not the DirecTV receiver utilizes this flag? If so, it seems very self-defeating as the receiver has a perfectly functional optical link of its own.

Unfortunately i dont think your fourth theory is true becuase I have experienced this sound popping issue via my Philips upscaling Dvd player and HDMI1 connection without any component cables connected but becuase i got this issue once or twice in the past in addition to sometimes getting no video picture when changing to HDMI1 input i decided to purchase a set of component cables as a backup to my HDMI cxn and honestly the picture and sound quality and not a huge difference when flicking between inputs to test this issue out and trying to replicate it. Touch wood popping issue has not returned yet even when playing the exact same DVD it cropped up on. Thx, Steve from NoVA.

This is not a source issue it is a HDMI problem with the TX line TV issue. Mine went away until I rebooted the TV and now its back. Just another annoyance from this TV is all.

can either one of these NTSC tvs play a PAL signal (lvm or the tx 47")?

i read the 37" lvm could, but not confirmed for the 47" lvm. if that is correct then i guess its safe to assume the 47" TX would as well.

do you think they (best buy) would let me plug in my UK xbox and see....:o

I currently have a Sony KV30HS-420 (CRT HD) and was looking into the Westinghouse TX- Series. Will the TX line show a better quality image than my CRT HD? I know it iwll show better image quality for my blu-ray player and other HD content but what about 720P and 1080i content? Will it look better on my CRT HDTV?

I have the 42" TX Westinghouse LCD ... Which mount should I buy?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=3004&seq=1&format=2&style=

OR


http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=2852&seq=1&format=2&style=

OR

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=3003&seq=1&format=2&style=

This is the one I bought: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=2852&seq=1&format=2&style=
but I had to also buy some different screws because the ones included with the mount were much too long even using the plastic spacers.

thanks for the links to the wall mounts.

anyone know if thes tvs will accept a 50hz PAL signal?

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I got a TX-42F430s last night. With the TV speakers set to mixed or external, and using the RCA's or optical, that when I am watching a channel broadcast in HD, I get both left and right channels. When I tune to an analog channel the left channel is not output to my receiver. I have called Westinghouse, they say that they have never heard of this before. Does anyone here have any ideas?

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I got a TX-42F430s last night. With the TV speakers set to mixed or external, and using the RCA's or optical, that when I am watching a channel broadcast in HD, I get both left and right channels. When I tune to an analog channel the left channel is not output to my receiver. I have called Westinghouse, they say that they have never heard of this before. Does anyone here have any ideas?

Are you using the internal tuner or a cable box?

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I got a TX-42F430s last night. With the TV speakers set to mixed or external, and using the RCA's or optical, that when I am watching a channel broadcast in HD, I get both left and right channels. When I tune to an analog channel the left channel is not output to my receiver. I have called Westinghouse, they say that they have never heard of this before. Does anyone here have any ideas?

There was someone else earlier in the thread that had this same problem. If I remember correctly I believe Westinghouse told them to return the TV. I'd search the thread for you but I'm too lazy today.

anyone know if thes tvs will accept a 50hz PAL signal?
It looks like the answer is no. Using either my MP3 player or digital camera set to PAL mode, the picture was distorted and in black and white. The TV's info box curiously reported the signal as "SECAM". There are no settings I can find related to PAL/SECAM signals so they don't seem to be supported.

Hey guys. I've had my set for a few weeks now. I actually love it. but i have one problem. for a few minutes after i start up the tv and when I turn it off, i get a popping or crackling sound coming form the back of the set. there is nothing wrong with any of the functionality on mine, so i don't think its causing an issue, but I'm wondering what it could be. It kinda sounds like pop/snap, sorta like a static shock maybe? I'm not sure how to describe. I did a search for popping and heard people talking about the speakers, but this isn't coming out of the speakers. Anyone got any suggestions?

Hey guys,

I'm a noobie to the forum, first post. I'm about to buy this set from BB and it's the last they have in the county. I'm basically buying from BB because of the 10% deal going on now. Before I saw the deal today I was mainly looking at buying a LVM from buydig. I was wondering, like a lot of people on the first 10 pages that I read, if I should get this or the LVM as they seem to be about the same price now.

I tried to read more than the first 10 pages, but each page is huge and I spent at least an hour just reading those. Can anybody who's been keeping up with this give me an update?

Are any of the problems of the first 10 pages fixed yet? Any new problems or firmware? Was an optimal setting decided on? Should I buy the warranty from BB? Is it possible to buy a warranty from somebody else after purchasing through BB? If so, any recommendations?

Essentially, I'll be using this tv mainly for watching cable on my HD-DVR box. Occasionally I'll play movies or games from my pc.

Any links to important parts of the thread or other areas would be greatly appreciated as I'm buying the unit in 10 hours and want to make sure I'm making a sound investment.

Thanks guys :)

As an owner of the LVM-37W3, and wants to upgrade in size, I am very much scared off of this new series... it seemed like the firmware updates came much more quickly for LVM ??? (tho the 42 never did quite seem to get perfected)....

Am I paranoid to hang tight with my 37 that works??

Mike

As an owner of the LVM-37W3, and wants to upgrade in size, I am very much scared off of this new series... it seemed like the firmware updates came much more quickly for LVM ??? (tho the 42 never did quite seem to get perfected)....


Which brings a question - how do firmware updates get distributed/installed? Does it require a service call/RMA, or can it be done by the owner?

Which brings a question - how do firmware updates get distributed/installed? Does it require a service call/RMA, or can it be done by the owner?

Unlike the LVM line, the TX line has a USB port which is supposed to allow the user to upgrade the firmware... whether or not Westy decides to release firmware updates to the public remains to be seen.

I'm about to make the leap, anybody on that can answer my above questions?

Oh yea, btw guys, it seems as though Best Buy will no longer be carrying these tv's. From what a couple of people at different BB stores told me, the item is deleted from their database which means they will get no more future shipments.

Hey guys. I've had my set for a few weeks now. I actually love it. but i have one problem. for a few minutes after i start up the tv and when I turn it off, i get a popping or crackling sound coming form the back of the set. there is nothing wrong with any of the functionality on mine, so i don't think its causing an issue, but I'm wondering what it could be. It kinda sounds like pop/snap, sorta like a static shock maybe? I'm not sure how to describe. I did a search for popping and heard people talking about the speakers, but this isn't coming out of the speakers. Anyone got any suggestions?

I believe it is coming from the speakers. Because they are bottom mounted it may seem like it's coming from the back of the unit, plus the subwoofer really IS on the back and it's popping is the loudest. This occurred for me the second time I turned the set on when it was new using the E.Saver power option for cold boot. It never happened again for me so I don't know what to tell you. I figured it was because I had turned it off then right back on again. I suspect some of the failed boots people have reported come from this, since the capacitors in the power supply need 30-40 seconds to recover attempting to restart before that can result in a failed start.

Oh yea, btw guys, it seems as though Best Buy will no longer be carrying these tv's. From what a couple of people at different BB stores told me, the item is deleted from their database which means they will get no more future shipments.

If true that has me a little worried. Maybe BB told Westy to fix the Defects before they start carrying them again or Westy is designin it. Either way it's kinda early to kill a rather new TV.

If you choose to do that, make sure the TV is unpluged from the wall.

Even then I would not recommend doing that - I've used 30mm bolt to try that and I've short circuited my previous TX (which I think was bizzare, the screw hole should not be near any critical components and be able to touch them. It didn't actually seem to have touched anything, but it did get close enough to conduct electricity it seems).

If I remember correctly I've used M6-16mm bolts (for the VESA 200 holes). I would be careful using anything longer than 16mm. When I've talked to Westinghouse they've recommended 12mm bolts (which I think seem way too short).

Well, that's why I said "don't force anything". IIRC, I thought that there was a "back end" to the screw hole, i.e., it was "capped", so that the scre would bottom out before poking through to the insides of the TV, unless you forced it. I could be wrong, I didn't really look at it with a flashlight or anything...

Ed

I'm looking for a mount that I can adjust on the wall to match up to where my studs are, then be able to center my TV on the mount ... adjusting a rail or something. What mount could I get to do that? The other thing I would like is the ability to tilt it a bit as well. It doesn't have to be a snug fit on the wall ... I just don't want it sticking out too far. I have one of those arm mounts for a TV I have in my basement and it's slick, but I don't need that for my bedroom.

I used this one, which is pricey compared to some others mentioned here, but still cheaper than many:



(ummm, that's tiny url (no space) if that doesn't show up right...or just search for Lextron LXT-P12)

It came with a variety of screws for different TVs, adapters for if the TV has a curved back, and the wall plate has a built-in level. It's very easily tilt-adjustable, very easy to mount, etc. It has a couple little levers that you can position to keep the tv from being lifted up off the wall plate, and these have holes in them that match up to holes in the mounting brackets; you can fit a small padlock through each of these (2 total) as a theft deterrant.

The smaller (up to 37") model has a sufficient weight rating, but I went with this one for a few reasons:


longer side-to-side so I have more positioning/centering flexibility
HDTVs will likely only get larger cheaper, so this one gives me some more flexibility for future equipment
with the wider mount, I was able to hit 3 wall studs (YMMV)


I'm not at home, so I can't say how far it sticks out from the wall, it's not meant to be a super flush-mount, and I didn't need it to be...actually, I think having it too close might be a bad thing for ventilation purposes.

Ed

I'm about to make the leap, anybody on that can answer my above questions?

Don't think any issues really resolved. Optimal settings are a matter of debate, opinion, and room lighting :cool:

I use bright 61, contrast 74, hue 50 sat 50 sharp 0 backlight 20 for HD and SD from a Series 3 tivo, via HDMI (I have the Tivo outputting everything at 1080i).

For watching SD- and HD-DVDs (either ripped to a network drive, or from an Xbox HD-DVD drive, either way played by my HTPC via DVI-HDMI), I turn the brightness down to 43 or so.

There is a gamma issue with these sets, so other people's setting will vary widely. I tend to watch mostly at night, with the room dark. I find blacks to be acceptable in real-world viewing with those settings, YMMV.

As for the PSP - I would definitely get it, and you should definitely get it from Best Buy, as Westy has an agreement where Best Buy services these anyway. But the extra cash is well worth the piece of mind, extended warranty, etc, etc.

Ed

Well, that's why I said "don't force anything". IIRC, I thought that there was a "back end" to the screw hole, i.e., it was "capped", so that the scre would bottom out before poking through to the insides of the TV, unless you forced it. I could be wrong, I didn't really look at it with a flashlight or anything...

Ed

I used 2 fingers to screw in the bolt. It didn't actually touch anything at all. At the time I didn't have a doubt in my mind that there would be a "back end" of sorts and would be completely isolated from the inside components. The 30mm bolt in went all the way without actually touching anything, but apparently it got close enough to 1 or 2 components inside to create a circuit of sorts. It was the top left (facing the back) vesa 200 hole, I did not try other holes, maybe they have "bottoms", I don't know. It is certainly not unlikely that only my TV had anything close enough to the bolt hole to cause a short circuit.

On a side note, I would not consider myself a "tool" when it comes to electronics. I have not had any professional experience, but electronics have been a hobby of mine for well over a decade (I've put together countless PCs, taken appart and performed minor repairs on VCRs, DVD players, computer components, modded a number of different game consoles, etc.) - I am very comfortable with electronics. I am not bragging, merely suggesting I was what I thought was very careful. It was the first electronics item I've short circuited and I am not proud of it. I've learned some lessons from it (main one being, don't assume the manufacturer is smart enough to make the absolute basic (I'd argue that putting a bolt into an openning made for a bolt of that diameter is a very basic operation) manipulations of their electronics fool proof).

Oh yea, btw guys, it seems as though Best Buy will no longer be carrying these tv's. From what a couple of people at different BB stores told me, the item is deleted from their database which means they will get no more future shipments.

I say BS on this as it seems this is what was said about the last model and it never happened until it was suppose to happen.:)

I say BS on this as it seems this is what was said about the last model and it never happened until it was suppose to happen.:)

I had several Best Buy salesmen tell me yesterday that they no longer carry the 47 (no stores in Georgia had it in stock), and I had to call seven stores to find a 42.

Speaking of which, I bought a 42 yesterday and am thoroughly pleased - only one stuck pixel, but I can't even locate it at viewing distance. However, on analog channels (via Comcast cable), CC is unusable - scrambled, overwrites itself, intermittent. On digital channels it's fine. My old TV doesn't have CC, so I can't use that as a reference. Is this a common problem with the TX line, an anomaly, or is there something wrong with my cable feed?

(Built June 26, Firmware 5112_1.3.0)

I say BS on this as it seems this is what was said about the last model and it never happened until it was suppose to happen.:)

Well call whatever you want. I spoke to 5 of the best buys in San Diego, and it seems that Oceanside is the only one that has any. The people who work at Oceanside said that it wasn't deleted from their system, and they might be getting more. They also said the regional depot was out, and the closest people that had another one in stock was Bakersfield, which is pretty far.

I'm pretty sure they're either discontinuing it or just cutting back how many stores carry it.

On another note, I just got my TV and noticed that it's a little noisy even when it's off. Anybody have/fix this problem?

On another note, I just got my TV and noticed that it's a little noisy even when it's off. Anybody have/fix this problem?

Mine's occasionally noisy when the backlight is all the way up. With the backlight at 70 or below it's inaudible. I haven't noticed any noise with the set off. Do you have it turned off completely (E.Saver) or just sleeping?

I say BS on this as it seems this is what was said about the last model and it never happened until it was suppose to happen.:)

Mine's occasionally noisy when the backlight is all the way up. With the backlight at 70 or below it's inaudible. I haven't noticed any noise with the set off. Do you have it turned off completely (E.Saver) or just sleeping?

It seems to have a hum constantly once plugged in. I tried with E.Saver and with just pressing the power button. Both ways it has a low hum. Did I get a bad unit?

Oh, and I thought I'd mention that my neighbor used to work for Time Warner Cable and helped me set up my tv today. He said that when he worked for them he came across a couple of people that got their HD sets fried by the signal coming over the coax.

He said he got a lot of flack because one time a customer had a fried set, and he checked signal, it measured at 28dB, but the FCC guidelines limit it to 10dB. So Time Warner paid for the set and from then on made everyone check the signal when doing work, but he said a lot of them just write down whatever because it's a big hassle to for them. Thought it would make sense from what I've read so far mostly people are getting their sets fried when using coax from cable in.

Hi all,

Is this the cheapest 42" TV that has a built in HD Tuner and can do 1080p? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on this; which REV of the TV should I get?

Thanks.

I had several Best Buy salesmen tell me yesterday that they no longer carry the 47 (no stores in Georgia had it in stock), and I had to call seven stores to find a 42.

Speaking of which, I bought a 42 yesterday and am thoroughly pleased - only one stuck pixel, but I can't even locate it at viewing distance. However, on analog channels (via Comcast cable), CC is unusable - scrambled, overwrites itself, intermittent. On digital channels it's fine. My old TV doesn't have CC, so I can't use that as a reference. Is this a common problem with the TX line, an anomaly, or is there something wrong with my cable feed?

(Built June 26, Firmware 5112_1.3.0)

I stand by what I said, This same garbage talk came up on the last model after it just had come out. Expect to see this model for a good year or more seeing as the LVM series has been around for so long.

Can someone with this TV post pics of HD cable? I'm considering getting this or another Sony RPTV.

Hi again,

Seems like I'm posting a lot here for my second day.

Ok, so I noticed that on some screens I see a red or green tinted line slowly rolling up the screen. I am connected to a HD-DVR box from Time Warner cable with component input.

I thought it might be my eyes playing a trick on me, but I saw that it happened a lot on gray/peach background, so I paused on some clouds, and I definitely see slowly rolling green and red lines. It's not just lines of straight red and green pixels, it just seems to "tint" the background under the lines.

Does anyone know what this is? Is it a defect from the component input or something else? Is my tv hosed?

EDIT: Just to let you know I just bought it, but I seem to have the firmware revision from April.

EDIT AGAIN: After coming back to the tv from posting this originally, the cable box went into screen saver mode which is basically a black screen with text that occasionally moves saying press any key. Well, on the black screen the rolling color is even more visible. It looks like half of the tv is black background, and half is purple. The purple half rolls up vertically and comes back from the bottom. WTF is this?

i also don't think that best buy is discontinuing the TX line from their shelves.

i went to many stores (trying to buy one locally) and they all:
1. had the 42" on display (sometimes multiple sets, in magnolia and in regular best buy)
2. they all said these sets have been selling briskly. one even told me that they had one left in stock, only to call the warehouse and find that someone had just purchased it.
3. they were all willing to order it for me, telling me i'd be able to pick it up in their store after 3 business days (this applies to both the 42" and the 47" models)

out of stock != will stop carrying

Just bought two 42" Westinghouse LCD's for my new game room (to play 2 player co op games and Xbox live with my buddies). Really dig the TV's and you can't beat the price. Anyone have any calibrated settings I can steal from you?


http://members.cox.net/kevin2222/tvs.jpg

http://members.cox.net/kevin2222/tvs2.jpg

http://members.cox.net/kevin2222/tvstand.jpg

Sweet setup man! I can think of a thousand reasons to have two TVs mounted on the wall next to each other... my wife on the other hand can't think of one reason. Oh well.

There are a ton of different calibration settings that people have posted in this thread. I don't have a 360 or any consoles connected to the TV so I wouldn't be much help.

haha my SNES is that same color..nice setup btw

Where's the wires?

p.

out of stock may != not carrying, but 5 of the 6 stores in san diego said, "We will not be carrying this item anymore."

Man, I keep showing up here to check on possibly someone getting and posting a firmware update or even news as to whether or not there will even be one. Looks like Westinghouse is going to drop the ball yet again.

I love the TV, but the lack of support and the "That's the first time we've heard of this issue" garbage is getting old.

BTW, anyone who is having rolling horizontal stripes and buzzing audio, seems it's a ground loop problem. I fixed it by attaching my coax from the wall through the same power strip I have everything else plugged in. Most power strips don't have coax plugs, but mid-high end ones do.

Two weeks plus and no problems. The popping when playing DVDs disappeared after the first day. I now have no compaints. The picture, when fed by an outstanding source, is awesome. Love my TX42!

Well I finally got rid of my TX-42 this past weekend after the third one died. I ended up getting a Sharp Aquos LC42D62U. I figured I would share the differences of these two units considering my experience with them both.

Westinghouse advantages:
Sharper picture with more detail
Better SD tuner picture quality
More inputs 4 HDMI vs. 2
Easier access to inputs on the spine
Display of input (1080i, 720P) on the screen
Ability to adjust individual color levels

Sharp advantages:
MUCH better black levels
MUCH better gray gradients and other color gradients as well
Better color
Better sound
Longer backlight life (60,000 hrs vs. 50,000 hrs)
Better remote with backlight
Better tuner channel changing, tuner gets the sound then displays the picture
Better response time, and it is noticeable
VERY even panel no mura at all, possibly lucky with this

There is a thread on the forum that complains of the Sharps issues with banding, which I do have, but only slightly when the picture pans left to right (or vise versa) it has vertical bands and when it pans top to bottom (or vis versa) it has horizontal bands. It is very minor, kinda like living with the poor black levels of the Westy. The other issue is poor ability to handle diagonal lines very jaggy, especially on pictures for optimizing picture settings. Not really noticeable in regular use, but VERY noticeable in the setup pictures.

I will say that I got "lucky" in that I picked up this set for about $100 less than the Westy MSRP, and it was a floor model since they had no more left in the area. I will say this about floor models, you have a chance to look over the set before taking it home, look for dead pixels, banding, mura, etc. Which was one of the reasons I accepted a floor model, I was very skeptical though.

Overall I'm very happy with the replacement, but for those here who have the Westy, let it be known that for the price it is VERY MUCH comparable to the more expensive sets, and the only real deficiency would be it's blacks and gray gradients. But again the picture quality on the Westy seemed much clearer and even looking at the other expensive sets at BB the Westy picture seemed better than most of them.

as far as CR numbers go, is the problem really the gamma or is the problem with the panel itself?

on another topic, did you see the 120Hz sets at BB? I notice a huge difference in sets with that compared to with 8ms vs 6.5 sets. Even commercials looked intriguingly smooth

From what I understand regarding the type of panel Westy uses it it typical for it to have issues with blacks, but give better viewing angles, and I think the Sharp has a better processor to get more gray gradients, where as the Westy seems to have a better video processor.

I didn't see any 120 fps units, since they were out of my set price range, but what I did notice was the vast difference in response of a plasma and an LCD. There was a similar spec LCD next to a Plasma showing many small pictures panning across the screen. The LCD showed the pictures VERY blurred as they panned and the plasma was very crisp. If you were to hit the freeze button on the LCD you would think you would get a blurry freeze frame, but on the Plasma if frozen you would think you would see a nice clear picture.

Are you using the internal tuner or a cable box?

Im using the internal tuner.

Hi again,

Seems like I'm posting a lot here for my second day.

Ok, so I noticed that on some screens I see a red or green tinted line slowly rolling up the screen. I am connected to a HD-DVR box from Time Warner cable with component input.

I thought it might be my eyes playing a trick on me, but I saw that it happened a lot on gray/peach background, so I paused on some clouds, and I definitely see slowly rolling green and red lines. It's not just lines of straight red and green pixels, it just seems to "tint" the background under the lines.

Does anyone know what this is? Is it a defect from the component input or something else? Is my tv hosed?

EDIT: Just to let you know I just bought it, but I seem to have the firmware revision from April.

EDIT AGAIN: After coming back to the tv from posting this originally, the cable box went into screen saver mode which is basically a black screen with text that occasionally moves saying press any key. Well, on the black screen the rolling color is even more visible. It looks like half of the tv is black background, and half is purple. The purple half rolls up vertically and comes back from the bottom. WTF is this?

Sounds like you have a bad component cable. Replace it and see what happens.

..... and why arent you using HDMI off that cable box ? :o

Overall I'm very happy with the replacement, but for those here who have the Westy, let it be known that for the price it is VERY MUCH comparable to the more expensive sets, and the only real deficiency would be it's blacks and gray gradients. But again the picture quality on the Westy seemed much clearer and even looking at the other expensive sets at BB the Westy picture seemed better than most of them.

Lutch,

If you can, see if you can bump that set up to the 46" model. The 42" sharp has the lowest quality picture of all the models they have. The sharp thread has more info on this.

Sounds like you have a bad component cable. Replace it and see what happens.

..... and why arent you using HDMI off that cable box ? :o

It wasn't a bad component cable, it was a ground loop problem that I fixed by grounding my coax cable through my power strip. I would use HDMI, but cords haven't arrived yet from monoprice :P. All works good, and I bet that a lot of people on here who complain of buzzing audio had the same problem as me.

It wasn't a bad component cable, it was a ground loop problem that I fixed by grounding my coax cable through my power strip. I would use HDMI, but cords haven't arrived yet from monoprice :P. All works good, and I bet that a lot of people on here who complain of buzzing audio had the same problem as me.

We should put that ground loop solution in the beginning of the thread. It might also save people from killing their tvs from directly going coax to tuner. There have been quite a few people whose tvs died while using the tuner.

I had a bad pair of component cables that would "roll" distorted lines up the screen. The best part was, they were monster cables. Got rid of those real fast.

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I got a TX-42F430s last night. With the TV speakers set to mixed or external, and using the RCA's or optical, that when I am watching a channel broadcast in HD, I get both left and right channels. When I tune to an analog channel the left channel is not output to my receiver.

I get the same effect on my TX-47, passing the audio out via L/R RCA to my sound system. I'm using the internal tuner on a Comcast cable signal, and audio from digital QAM channels passes through on both left and right halves; stereo PC audio via the extra HDMI 1 audio input also passes left and right correctly. But when the tuner is receiving analog channels only the right half of stereo audio is being passed.

This smells alot like a firmware issue. My F/W version is 5121_1.3.0 and the build date is June 26 2007.

Is anyone out there actually getting both L & R audio output on SD analog channels from the internal tuner?

Also, I'm PO'd that the RCA audio output levels are NOT affected by the volume control! Every TV I've ever owned either had its audio outputs post-volume ctrl or gave you a menu choice of pre- or post-.

I'm currently on my laptop, watching the best buy tech poke at my TX-42.
He just said something on his phone about the "main digital board at the bottom"... not sure what that means, but he had to call someone about it.

he has a laptop of his own plugged in to the back of the TV, and is ... doing something!

more updates as I know more!

Hopefully I don't need to return it, thats going to be a PITA.

he wrote off the TV, we'll have to get a replacement.

Thats strike 2 (strike 1 was it failing in the first place less then 5 weeks after we bought it.)

which revision is yours?

as long as you have a midsize car..the TV should fit, just take the box and bump stops separately..and if I remember correctly, someone returned on w/o the box

Hi everyone, first off thanks for all the great messages. I've actually read them all (though I only skimmed the PC related ones!) and appreciate all the input.

My TX47 is due in on Monday, along with my DirecTV upgrade to HD (got the HD+DVR sitting in a box already).

I just wanted to share my experience which was similar to someone else's about BB not having the 47's in stock. This was the case here in NJ. It did not show up as DELETED (the LVM did however), but there was none in stock within a 50 mile radius. The blueshirt didn't have anything useful to say about whether or not they were going to continue to carry them. I had originally seen it online, but was hoping for a little instant gratification. Ah well. They did have two TX42's on display... oddly enough one was completely hosed, it looked like the input was hanging halfway out or something.

Anyway, for the price & the features I was determined so I ended up just ordering it online and have been gnawing my knuckles ever since! Honestly my biggest concern is that this beast is going to be too big! I have an old 32" Proscan now which fits nicely in the corner of my room... tape measure says the 47 will fit ... can't wait to find out!

I purchased the Westy 42 in from BB a couple of weeks ago. The picture was fine with some slight blur on fast action, i.e. football but for the price it would do fine. It looked much better on fast action when driven from my pc so I chalked that up to the signal. However, I have a Sony A2000 SXRD and it shows no movement blurring, same signal source. The Sony also has better SD picture. For the $$ the picture can not be beat.

Anyway the Westy kept freezing up. It would do it when going from different inputs and when changing channels or volume. This happened very consistently when lots of changes were done. It would also be frozen if I would leave it sitting for a while. I had the April build date and firmware. Called support and there was no firmware updates. The solution was to unplug and wait 5-10 minutes which did fix it but was a pain. I returned it to BB since it did not appear that any fix to the current issues is going to happen any time soon.

I have now purchased a Sharp Aquos LC-42D64U. It is the follow on to the one mentioned above that BB and CC have been selling at quite a low price point. If you have an employer relationship with Sharp for product purchase through work you can get the new Sharp for less then the Westy. That is what I did. The new one uses the same panel on the 42 this time around as the larger sets.

Anyway good luck to everyone on your Westy's. I hope the firmware upgrade comes soon. :)

I purchased the Westy 42 in from BB a couple of weeks ago. The picture was fine with some slight blur on fast action, i.e. football but for the price it would do fine. It looked much better on fast action when driven from my pc so I chalked that up to the signal. However, I have a Sony A2000 SXRD and it shows no movement blurring, same signal source. The Sony also has better SD picture. For the $$ the picture can not be beat.

Anyway the Westy kept freezing up. It would do it when going from different inputs and when changing channels or volume. This happened very consistently when lots of changes were done. It would also be frozen if I would leave it sitting for a while. I had the April build date and firmware. Called support and there was no firmware updates. The solution was to unplug and wait 5-10 minutes which did fix it but was a pain. I returned it to BB since it did not appear that any fix to the current issues is going to happen any time soon.

I have now purchased a Sharp Aquos LC-42D64U. It is the follow on to the one mentioned above that BB and CC have been selling at quite a low price point. If you have an employer relationship with Sharp for product purchase through work you can get the new Sharp for less then the Westy. That is what I did. The new one uses the same panel on the 42 this time around as the larger sets.

Anyway good luck to everyone on your Westy's. I hope the firmware upgrade comes soon. :)

Wow, just checked out the stats..good stuff, it looks to be only at CC though not BB, at least on the website, but it looks like they're clearing out these things.

I wonder if the firmware will fix it, otherwise I may be "hoping" for a problem within the 1 year so that I can upgrade lol

Has anybody else noticed rather bad caption decoding when feeding an older composite signal into the Westy?

I've an old lifetime-service Tivo, with some vy upgraded storage, and I would like to keep this for a while longer, at least until I feel comfortable with my provider's DVR solution, or bite the bullet and buy a new Tivo.

Decoding seems choppy and inconsistent.

Anybody else notice this?

I have a HD cable box install apptment (I think it will be a DCT5100) so I have no idea what the decoding will look like in that form yet.

Did anyone notice that when their TV is in standby, the LCD panel still changes to the image that would be displayed had the TV been on?

By standby, I mean... You JUST shut the TV off and it would turn on FAST (without showing the Westinghouse logo) if you were to turn it on right then.


Do this: Turn the TV off on a channel that broadcasts and comes in clearly - I've confirmed this with analog channels at least... Have a light source on behind you in an otherwise dark room with the TV and look for silhouettes of images on the "off" TV. You can see the "ghost" of the image moving on the screen.

Again, this only works IF the TV is in "standby" -- if it would turn on fast if you turned it on right then -- after a period of time, the TV shuts off completely and would restart with a "W" Westinghouse logo.

Thinking I had read this thread thoroughly and that there were no per-input calibration memories, I was stoked to discover today that the limitation is only on the HDMI inputs, which share a single set of calibrations. So the internal tuner, my PC VGA input and the HDMI input from Blu-ray can all be individually tweaked. Awesome!

Is this something that appeared in a firmware update or has it always been 75% implemented like this?

Hi, I very recently (September 6th) bought the TX-47F430S with a build-on date of "2007 June 26" and Software Version 5121_1.3.0.

When I first set it up (attached all my deviced) and powered it on, I got no picture, but could get audio. Glad I found this website/forum; I found out about the reboot procedure (holding the power button on the TV for 10 seconds while TV is off). However, what I had to do was disconnect EVERYTHING and then perform the reboot. You can't imagine how happy I was to see that big W logo on the screen.

It has been working great until tonight. I was playing a DVD and stopped the DVD player. Left the TV and DVD on. The DVD was displaying it's logo for a while, then the TV goes blank. When I get back to play the DVD I hear audio, but still no picture. Tried a reboot and nothing. Unplugged EVERYTHING again and tried a reboot (several times) and still nothing. I left the DVD on and playing so that I'm hearing the audio and still no picture and sit down on my computer (not connected to the TV) to hop onto this forum to find any help. While I'm searching the forum the picture shows up on the TV. Strange! Strange! Strange!

This little problem has me concerned. I bought it from BB and purchased a 4-year warranty. Should I think about getting an exchange? Has anybody contacted Westinghouse support about this issue? Does anybody have any experience at all with Westinghouse support, and if so what are your impressions (good or bad)?

Thinking I had read this thread thoroughly and that there were no per-input calibration memories, I was stoked to discover today that the limitation is only on the HDMI inputs, which share a single set of calibrations. So the internal tuner, my PC VGA input and the HDMI input from Blu-ray can all be individually tweaked. Awesome!

Is this something that appeared in a firmware update or has it always been 75% implemented like this?

Yeah, it has always been like that. I believe Component inputs also share the same calibrations too. At least that is what someone else said earlier in the thread.

Scullifer, it sounds like a bad set. Unless there is some funky signal drop from your DVD player or something. Is it an HDMI DVD player?

Hi, I very recently (September 6th) bought the TX-47F430S with a build-on date of "2007 June 26" and Software Version 5121_1.3.0.

When I first set it up (attached all my deviced) and powered it on, I got no picture, but could get audio. Glad I found this website/forum; I found out about the reboot procedure (holding the power button on the TV for 10 seconds while TV is off). However, what I had to do was disconnect EVERYTHING and then perform the reboot. You can't imagine how happy I was to see that big W logo on the screen.

It has been working great until tonight. I was playing a DVD and stopped the DVD player. Left the TV and DVD on. The DVD was displaying it's logo for a while, then the TV goes blank. When I get back to play the DVD I hear audio, but still no picture. Tried a reboot and nothing. Unplugged EVERYTHING again and tried a reboot (several times) and still nothing. I left the DVD on and playing so that I'm hearing the audio and still no picture and sit down on my computer (not connected to the TV) to hop onto this forum to find any help. While I'm searching the forum the picture shows up on the TV. Strange! Strange! Strange!

This little problem has me concerned. I bought it from BB and purchased a 4-year warranty. Should I think about getting an exchange? Has anybody contacted Westinghouse support about this issue? Does anybody have any experience at all with Westinghouse support, and if so what are your impressions (good or bad)?

Sounds like something faulty to me, My TX47 has never done this to me. I would probably get a replacement.

Has anyone been able to set the TX to 48hz or 72hz, via powerstrip or some other way?

I'm looking into this for 24p playback, to avoid the 3:2/60hz conversion judder, the same reason that the newer TV's are supporting 120hz (5x24p or 2x60).

I tried setting my panel to 48hz in powerstrip, and I immediately get a blank screen, but then I switch inputs, and then back to HDMI 4 where my PC is connected, it resyncs, but I cannot confirm that its still at 48hz, or has reset to 60hz.

anyone? powerstrip advice? custom EDID needed on LCD? (yikes)

p.

It has been working great until tonight. I was playing a DVD and stopped the DVD player. Left the TV and DVD on. The DVD was displaying it's logo for a while, then the TV goes blank. When I get back to play the DVD I hear audio, but still no picture.

When you say the "TV goes blank", did the "No Signal" message appear? Did the remote (I) button give any info about that input? Were the on-screen menus active? Were any other inputs alive? Did the backlight go out?

I cant figure this out...
I am having an output problem on my SPDIF (optical digital out) when the source is connected via HDMI. Allow me to paint the full picture:
Connection:
PS3 (or SA cable box) on HDMI 1 (to avoid any HDMI hub issues)
SPDIF to a Samsung HT-P38 receiver (dont lynch me for having a HTIB system...:o)
Settings:
TV:
Speaker: External
HDMI: Digital (tried analog as well, no diff...)
Built on June 26th, 2007
Software Rev: 5121_1.3.0
PS3:
Audio out on HDMI

What I know:
SPDIF cable works because if I hook PS3 directly to the receiver (and change PS3 out setting) I get sound.
The audio is being received by the TV because if I switch to mixed mode it comes out of the internal speakers. Also, if I connect the receiver via L/R RCA from TV out I get sound.
The SPDIF out works to some extent because if I input sound to the TV on a standard L/R RCA input I do get sound on my receiver.

What I have tried:
Called Westinghouse tech support and described the same as above. They couldnt help (big surprise) and said I should exchange the set.
Exchanged the set at Best Buy with no change (could I really have gotten TWO TVs with the exact same problem?!?!)

I currently have my PS3 going directly to the receiver using SPDIF so that I can get 5.1 for movies, but would also like to get this from my HD cable box...and not have to change the input on my receiver when switching between the two (my Harmony takes care of this, but it is annoying as it requires more time to switch inputs).
Anyhow, if anyone has suggestions on what I may be doing wrong or could try, please let me know...I thank you in advance!

I cant figure this out...
I am having an output problem on my SPDIF (optical digital out) when the source is connected via HDMI. Allow me to paint the full picture:
Connection:
PS3 (or SA cable box) on HDMI 1 (to avoid any HDMI hub issues)
SPDIF to a Samsung HT-P38 receiver (dont lynch me for having a HTIB system...:o)
Settings:
TV:
Speaker: External
HDMI: Digital (tried analog as well, no diff...)
Built on June 26th, 2007
Software Rev: 5121_1.3.0
PS3:
Audio out on HDMI

What I know:
SPDIF cable works because if I hook PS3 directly to the receiver (and change PS3 out setting) I get sound.
The audio is being received by the TV because if I switch to mixed mode it comes out of the internal speakers. Also, if I connect the receiver via L/R RCA from TV out I get sound.
The SPDIF out works to some extent because if I input sound to the TV on a standard L/R RCA input I do get sound on my receiver.

What I have tried:
Called Westinghouse tech support and described the same as above. They couldnt help (big surprise) and said I should exchange the set.
Exchanged the set at Best Buy with no change (could I really have gotten TWO TVs with the exact same problem?!?!)

I currently have my PS3 going directly to the receiver using SPDIF so that I can get 5.1 for movies, but would also like to get this from my HD cable box...and not have to change the input on my receiver when switching between the two (my Harmony takes care of this, but it is annoying as it requires more time to switch inputs).
Anyhow, if anyone has suggestions on what I may be doing wrong or could try, please let me know...I thank you in advance!

Just to clarify, you are going this connection route:

PS3 > HDMI > TX > Optical > Reciever?

I don't own a PS3 and am not using Optical but everything I've read in this thread indicates that you have to set a special sound setting on the PS3 to something like "BitStream" or something like that in order for the 5.1 to be passed through the TX. It was pretty early in the thread but you should be able to find it relatively easily for the exact setting.

Anyhow, if anyone has suggestions on what I may be doing wrong or could try, please let me know...I thank you in advance!

Unfortunately this is the way it is supposed to (not)work over HDMI. Evil HDCP regulations mandate than unencrypted enhanced audio not be passed out if received over HDMI:
http://www.digital-cp.com/home/HDCPComponentRev2.pdf
See 3.3 on page 33, and 5.3 on page 35.

The first version of the Westy firmware actually let it pass through, but the newest doesn't... Over on the Philips thread it sounds like the HDCP minions are cracking down on companies not following the indoctrination manual err I mean spec.

xnappo

When you say the "TV goes blank", did the "No Signal" message appear? Did the remote (I) button give any info about that input? Were the on-screen menus active? Were any other inputs alive? Did the backlight go out?

Nothing (absolutely nothing) showed on the LCD screen. No backlight, not menus, no messages, no logo ... nothing! Inputs were working, becuase I could change the inputs and hear different audio (Cable box, DVR, DVD, etc.) but nothing on the screen. Just the blue light indicating that the TV was powered on.

Well, I came home from work tonight and turned on the TV. It was working fine for about an hour and the video goes blank again. Still have the audio, but video is dead. I've tried a reboot, etc. and nothing is working. I've left in on for several hours with a DVD playing, hoping that it would come back like it did last night, but no luck. Of course, the video goes out just after Westinghouse tech support stopped answering calls for the night. Guess I'll give them a call and see what they have to say tomorrow.

Here's my setup: 1) Comcast cable comes in to a Monster Surge Protector. 2) Cable goes out to Digital (not HD) cable box. 3) Composite video out of cable box to Composite Video input on TV. 4) HDMI out of a Panasonic DVR to the first HDMI input (have tried it on other HDMI inputs). It's a fairly basic setup and I can't think of how I might do anything differently.

If I am able to get the video back, should I change any settings on the TV to possibly prevent it from going back out (i.e. change it off of the eSaver mode and off of auto input selection)?

Question about procedure for returnig the TV to BB if I have to go that route (hope this isn't considered too off topic). I bought the TV less than a week ago and I've threw away the box it came in. I purchase the extended warranty through BB. Should I call BB and have them come look at it first? If I have to take it back, what will BB say about the lack of a box?

Your TV really needs to go back, Ive had my TX47 for a month and it never once has done such a thing. I would call Best Buy and have them send you out a new one and pick up the defective one. Someone I know called BB up and they picked his up and he ended up buying something different from someone else.

issues to report.

1) audio drop out during BD movies from the PS3 over HDMI. haven't tried component.

2) video drop out on PS3 games via HDMI.

3) large backlight columns at each end of the display at all times... watching SD on this is unbarable.

4) ran an SD DVD and the backlight was switching up and down depending on the brightness of the shot. turning of dynamic in the setup did nothing.

5) purple line at the bottom of all HD broadcasts from my SA8300HD DVR. swapped my fathers XBR2, no problem so it's not the cable box. tried both component and HDMI. turned de-interlacing off and it was still there.

6) get a rather thick/thin static/noise line at the top of any 480 broadcast content on the digital channels, didn't happen on the XBR or my 15'' element HD tv. :-\

will take pics of people want to see the problems. The set is going back on thursday. This would be any awesome tv if all it was fed was 16:9 HD content. but my viewing habits are more varied.

I'm look at a sony or samsung now.

in my experience at CC, the sony seemed to deal a bit better than the samsung at SD content, but to be honest both the xbr4 and xx71 series are just incredibly beautiful.

In the price range of this TV however the best bet I think would either be the 64u series sharps or the 61series samsungs, still runs a few benjamins more than the equivalent westy, but you really do get what you pay for in this business

i think im going for the 4665f... sharps look too noisy to me. maybe it's the in store broadcasting. Don't get me wrong the westy looks amazing, but just too many annoying issues. which is disappointing. :-(

The 71f is just too pricey at 46'' for me right now. The 65f is still 10bit and seems to be a good deal right now. CC has it for around 2500 i think

heh sharps I mentioned uses the 10,000:1 panel, and is AFAIK only sold on their website and strangely enough on clearance, might be gone now (see FW), and yes the 71f is nearly in sony range as far as pricing goes, IMO the 4665 looks nearly as good as the 71, just without the 120hz motion smoothing which is nice and actually noticeable but for most not worth the 50% increase in price

Unfortunately this is the way it is supposed to (not)work over HDMI. Evil HDCP regulations mandate than unencrypted enhanced audio not be passed out if received over HDMI:
http://www.digital-cp.com/home/HDCPComponentRev2.pdf
See 3.3 on page 33, and 5.3 on page 35.

The first version of the Westy firmware actually let it pass through, but the newest doesn't... Over on the Philips thread it sounds like the HDCP minions are cracking down on companies not following the indoctrination manual err I mean spec.

xnappo

xnappo, thanks for the explaination, makes sense (not why HDCP did it, but why it doesnt work on the Westy).
Is there somewhere that one could get the older firmware and replace the existing firmware through the usb service port? If so, are there any major drawbacks to doing this which may out-weigh the ability to get sound over digital out?

I had purchased the 47' last week and I have some issues and concerns I'd like everyone's input on:

When I first booted it up with the Antenna signal connection, after I was finished autoscanning for channels, in about five minutes while watching, something resembling a static noise occured and my TV is now OFF without me doing anything. Turning it on gives no response, not even Audio like some people were claiming. Luckily the Reboot function did the trick and so far watching television was fine. Today marks the second day since I've owned this TV.

My question here is: Should I consider returning the Westy since the issue happened after it was turned on for the first time for merely ten minutes? I mean, an immediate issue right off the bat sounds a little too suspicious I would think. Or should I be alright from here on out?

I recently purchased a TX-42F430S and have loved it up til now. I've done a search of this thread for an answer, and either I'm not using the right search words, or I'm just not finding it. Anyway...

Sunday, I noticed that the sound would go quiet every once in a while, and at times would go out all together. At first I thought it was the cable feed of the game I was watching. But when I turned to other channels, it was still happening. SO I thought maybe it was my cable box that was the issue. I put in a DVD and was getting the same sound drop issues with the DVD player. So now I'm thinking that the Westy is having issues. I have a Comcast Motorola 6200 cable box and a Panasonic DVD-Recorder both connected to the TV with HDMI cables.

I have a 32" Westy and when I plug the same equipment to it, there is no issue.

Is there some kind of problem with the TX-42F430S that I'm not aware of?

Any help is appreciated!!

issues to report.

1) audio drop out during BD movies from the PS3 over HDMI. haven't tried component.

2) video drop out on PS3 games via HDMI.

3) large backlight columns at each end of the display at all times... watching SD on this is unbarable.

4) ran an SD DVD and the backlight was switching up and down depending on the brightness of the shot. turning of dynamic in the setup did nothing.

5) purple line at the bottom of all HD broadcasts from my SA8300HD DVR. swapped my fathers XBR2, no problem so it's not the cable box. tried both component and HDMI. turned de-interlacing off and it was still there.

6) get a rather thick/thin static/noise line at the top of any 480 broadcast content on the digital channels, didn't happen on the XBR or my 15'' element HD tv. :-\

will take pics of people want to see the problems. The set is going back on thursday. This would be any awesome tv if all it was fed was 16:9 HD content. but my viewing habits are more varied.

I'm look at a sony or samsung now.

#1 & 2: Which HDMI input is the PS3 plugged into? People have reported dropouts with some devices cables that are fixed by using HDMI 1. Also could try a different cable. I had the problem with an S3 Tivo on HDMI 2, and switching it to HDMI 1 did the trick. My HTPC is now on HDMI 2 and hasn't dropped out yet, so it seems to be specific to certain devices and/or cables.

#3: Not sure what you mean - are you saying the backlight is uneven? Or are you saying that you would like a "stretch" mode? This set has "Fill" and "Overscan" modes. "Fill" will narrow those black bars, at the expense of a tiny bit of the top and bottom of the picture. "Overscan" mode gets rid of them altogether, but chops too much of the picture, IMO. It is however perfect for "4:3 letterbox", I think that's the term, stuff that, on "Normal" mode, will show with black bars all around. Some content on A&E HD is like this, and overscan makes it fill the screen perfectly. I'm not a big fan of stretch modes or a lot of overscan, so this set's "Fill" is usually satisfactory for me, and "Overscan" is reserved for the content described above.

#4: So you're saying that Dynamic Contrast is kicking in even when set to off? That would be the first report of that, AFAIK.

#5: Got to be the 8300 (and see #6 for why you didn't see it on other TV). People have reported the purple line issue, but only on component and always went away when changing deinterlacing setting. I've never seen it myself, but a thread search should turn up several posts, maybe something that can help.

#6: This is out-of-spec closed-caption data being sent by the broadcaster. You will see this on any TV that displays true 1080P (aka 1:1 pixel mapping) without overscan. You will also see a grayish line down the side of any broadcast, HD or not IIRC, on NBCHD. It is good that you see this, it means the TV is not overscanning - it can be annoying to watch. You can get rid of it by switching the aspect ratio to "Fill". I suspect that the XBR2 overscans, which is why you've never seen this and may be why you've never seen the purple line from #5.

Ed

I recently purchased a TX-42F430S and have loved it up til now. I've done a search of this thread for an answer, and either I'm not using the right search words, or I'm just not finding it. Anyway...

Sunday, I noticed that the sound would go quiet every once in a while, and at times would go out all together. At first I thought it was the cable feed of the game I was watching. But when I turned to other channels, it was still happening. SO I thought maybe it was my cable box that was the issue. I put in a DVD and was getting the same sound drop issues with the DVD player. So now I'm thinking that the Westy is having issues. I have a Comcast Motorola 6200 cable box and a Panasonic DVD-Recorder both connected to the TV with HDMI cables.

I have a 32" Westy and when I plug the same equipment to it, there is no issue.

Is there some kind of problem with the TX-42F430S that I'm not aware of?

Any help is appreciated!!

Just to be sure, you are using the TV speakers themselves, and not the SPDIF out to a preamp or receiver? If so, it does sound like the Westy is having issues. What are your settings in the "Audio" menu? Can you try hooking either component in via analog audio and see if it still happens?

Ed

I am using the TV speaker themselves not SPDIF.

I'm not looking at the TV right now, but I believe the audio is NOW set to Voice, and MIXED. This after playing with the settings to get it working.

I can try hooking up using component, but if this is an HDMI issue I would want the unit fixed anyway.

I purchased mine from BB with the 4 year extended warrenty, so they will be coming out on Friday, but I was hoping to find a fix before they came out, and then have them not fix it or worse take it and have to wait for a replacement to come in when the new fall season starts real soon!!

P.S. What is this REBOOT thing I've been reading.. how does one do that?

To reboot your TX westy just hold the power button in for 10 seconds then let it go, You should get the W on the screen as you did on initial boot up the first time.

Called Westinghouse support tonight. They had me unplug the TV from the surge protector outlet and leave it unplugged for about 30 seconds (this is supposed to cause a reboot of the TV set) and then had me replug it back into the wall outlet. After doing this there was still no video being displayed (no W logo, no backlights, no menus, nothing). Westinghouse said it appears to be a defective TV and that I should return/exchange it. I asked them about the 10 second power button reboot, but they didn't know anything about that technique.

After the call to Westinghouse, I called 1-800-BEST-BUY (I purchased the 4-year PSP) and scheduled for someone to come out and look at it. My concern is if they come out and determine it's a bad TV, will they take it back and bring a new one? If so, I wonder how long it will take to get the replacement.

Now, I have gotten off the phone with my local BB and talked to them about bringing it back in for an exchange. They said there would be no problem (I don't have the box it came it), just bring in the TV along with the remote (important) and manuals/warranty card. I had them check inventory on the same model to see if I could have it quickly exchanged, but no luck (none in stock). So, if I take it back they will have to order one and I'll have to wait until it comes in to get it. When I originally purchased the TV there were none in stock and it took 4 business days to arrive in their store.

Should I wait until Friday (two days) for the BB in-home person to show up and determine if it's fixable or needs to be replaced; or, should I just take in back to BB myself and exchange it?

To reboot your TX westy just hold the power button in for 10 seconds then let it go, You should get the W on the screen as you did on initial boot up the first time.

Do you hold the power button while the TV is off (amber light) or on (blue light)? I've tried it both ways and nothing. Westinghouse support had me unplug the power cord for 30 seconds to force a reboot (but still didn't fix my problem).

I am using the TV speaker themselves not SPDIF.

I'm not looking at the TV right now, but I believe the audio is NOW set to Voice, and MIXED. This after playing with the settings to get it working.

I can try hooking up using component, but if this is an HDMI issue I would want the unit fixed anyway.

I purchased mine from BB with the 4 year extended warrenty, so they will be coming out on Friday, but I was hoping to find a fix before they came out, and then have them not fix it or worse take it and have to wait for a replacement to come in when the new fall season starts real soon!!

P.S. What is this REBOOT thing I've been reading.. how does one do that?

I've read every post in this thread and this is the first issue I remember reading about sound dropping out like this. It really does sound like a defective TV.

Well, I just had the same problem. Blue LED with no "W" logo or anything. I can hear the audio, but no video on any input. I would also like to add my 2 cents... It just so happens that my dvi to hdmi cable came today. I plugged it in, worked great for a few hours. Turned my TV on a bit later and noticed the images from my pc was grainy. So I turned the TV off and back on... Now I get nothing. I have tried all the "reset" tricks with no luck. I have had the tv for almost a month with no problems, so I am pretty certain the HDMI cable caused the problem. I did have energy saver mode turned on. Luckily this happened now, because I did not buy the extended warranty from BB (I think I might with my replacement ;) ). I guess I have to call BB and hope they have one in stock, although when I bought this, they told me this was the only one they have ever received.

#3: Not sure what you mean - are you saying the backlight is uneven?

I think what he's referring to is an effect called pillaring where the backlight bleeds through on the left and right sides of the display and causes two columns of milkiness on either side-- very noticable on SD content, and of course the fade to blacks between TV commercials. Some people call it clouding or mura though that is generally meant to indicate random blotches of milkiness over the entire screen, not just the left and right sides.

I have the same problem with my TX-47. Something I din't have with my LVM-42. To be honest, other than the screen size, my TX-47 hasn't proven to be an upgrade from my LVM-42. :( Wondering if I should have just gotten the LVM-47, but I wanted to go all HDMI with my AV equipment which also ended up somewhat lackluster due to the HDMI hub issue of the TX-47 where all HDMI inputs share the same picture settings. doh!

Attached is a more minor version of the pillaring effect we get on our TX. If you guys like I can take some shots of the effect on our TX and we can compare notes. http://www.nypm.net/_DSC4769.jpg

Do you hold the power button while the TV is off (amber light) or on (blue light)? I've tried it both ways and nothing. Westinghouse support had me unplug the power cord for 30 seconds to force a reboot (but still didn't fix my problem).

Yea with the light amber, If it works you should get the W on screen. Sounds to me that yours needs to be replaced no matter what though.

Well, I just had the same problem. Blue LED with no "W" logo or anything. I can hear the audio, but no video on any input. I would also like to add my 2 cents... It just so happens that my dvi to hdmi cable came today. I plugged it in, worked great for a few hours. Turned my TV on a bit later and noticed the images from my pc was grainy. So I turned the TV off and back on... Now I get nothing. I have tried all the "reset" tricks with no luck. I have had the tv for almost a month with no problems, so I am pretty certain the HDMI cable caused the problem. I did have energy saver mode turned on. Luckily this happened now, because I did not buy the extended warranty from BB (I think I might with my replacement ;) ). I guess I have to call BB and hope they have one in stock, although when I bought this, they told me this was the only one they have ever received.

This sounds like what happened to my first set, except...

You mention this "graininess". I have run into situations where my HTPC had hung with some video issue, unbeknownst to me. This created a situation where the picture on the Westy was, well, I can't describe it, I think there were some pictures earlier in the thread. Looked like an infrared image, across all inputs, across multiple power cycles, reboots, unplugs, etc. I ended up figuring out the PC was hosed, did a restart. That cleared up 90% of the problem. Had to restart it a 2nd time, bang, the Westy was fine. So if your HTPC is dumping a funky video signal, it can confuse the hell out of the Westy, even if you have it on another input.

Other people have also had success in a similar situation with unplugging *all* the signal cables from the Westy, unplugging it, and then I *think* putting them back in one at a time, testing in between. Couldn't hurt.

Ed

1080p on component for my XBox 360 is actually worse than 720p/1080i. 1080p kinda blurs a little bit more, while 720p/1080i looked more crisp. Is this really supposed to happen? I was told component should be very capable of doing 1080p.

It's day four so far and it hasn't died since I fixed it by reboot two days ago. I tried Gears of War on the 360 and unless my settings are wrong (see cnet) I feel that some parts that are dark are just plain blacked out. I'll look into it a little more. Tonight I'll also test Wii and even PS2 (that's right not 3) on component.

Not a bad TV so far, I traded in a 56" 1080p Samnsung DLP for the 47". Obviously the Samsung was a better TV but i ended up saving 850$ by doing it. The only problems I've had so far is getting the picture to look decent enough to match the other LCDs in the house. Any suggestions on calibration settings?

EDIT: Particularly good settings for video games. I'm only hooked up via 1080p component right now.

This sounds like what happened to my first set, except...

You mention this "graininess". I have run into situations where my HTPC had hung with some video issue, unbeknownst to me. This created a situation where the picture on the Westy was, well, I can't describe it, I think there were some pictures earlier in the thread. Looked like an infrared image, across all inputs, across multiple power cycles, reboots, unplugs, etc. I ended up figuring out the PC was hosed, did a restart. That cleared up 90% of the problem. Had to restart it a 2nd time, bang, the Westy was fine. So if your HTPC is dumping a funky video signal, it can confuse the hell out of the Westy, even if you have it on another input.

Other people have also had success in a similar situation with unplugging *all* the signal cables from the Westy, unplugging it, and then I *think* putting them back in one at a time, testing in between. Couldn't hurt.

Ed

x84HurstOlds thanks for the info. So was you ever able to recover your first set? I agree that the images looked kind of "Infrared" but my PC looks fine on my 22" LCD with no problems at all. I have tried inserting signal cables one at a time with no luck. Still just a black screen with a blue LED. I'm kind of scared to buy another Westinghouse 47". This really sucks, this TV is awesome when it was working.

I've search everywhere, where do you find the firmware downloads?

Hey everybody, tried searching before posting. If this is a repeat, sorry!

Picked a TX-42F430S up about a month ago, and couldn't be happier with the picture. I am experiencing issues with computer display though. I have a radeon 9800 with dvi & vga out. First I hookedup VGA, and was displaying 1080, pretty good. I decided to upgrade, so I went out and bought a DVI to HDMI cable. This worked great; except after changing inputs, and trying to go back to the hdmi input (my pc), I would get a "No Signal Detected" screen. After a week or two, I would get nothing. i.e. turn my pc on while watching cable, the tv will switch sources, but it just says no signal detected.

After this, I figure I'd try going back to vga. Now when i set my video card to 1920 x 1080, I get display, but it is a weird disp[lay where if I move my mouse, the screen area covered moves with it (seems like the tv wont do 1080 resolution for vga anymore). The highest I can do now is 1280 x 1024.

Any ideas why the HDMI-DVI cable is acting this way, and\or why when I reverted to VGA I could no longer get the TV to go into 1920 x 1080?

Thank you in advance for any insight!

I've search everywhere, where do you find the firmware downloads?


There isn't any firmware to be downloaded.

Well, its been like 4 weeks without my TV and since the last time I posted. I got the new RMA'd tv yesterday via UPS and guese what,?? The box was smashed and the lcd panel was completly destroyed. Hurray.!.!.!//// Fu*k..... Now I need to go through UPS to get some kind of reimbusment for the god dam thing. What a fuc*ing nightmare.....:mad:

heh the whole reason i have a TX in the first place is because UPS fuc*ed up my 37w3 from costco, luckily for me they didn't bother delivering it and started the process for me, i had my credit back in 3 days

I must say that despite the value of this as a computer monitor/TV I really can't recommend it anymore to other people (personally experienced freeze up twice and have since turned off e-saver), and now that prices are dropping everywhere the westy doesn't look as good

I've found a new bug.

EPG uses a window. When a title is longer, it will be shown outside the right border of the EPG window. The problem is: once this happens, the letters outside the border will stay until you reboot. I've tried to switch input but it does not happen.

Has anyone encountered the same bug?

i use EPG frequently and can't say that I have experienced that (knock knock), which channel did this occur on?

I just got this TV last night and have only tried a few things with it before I had to get to bed.

I purchased a cheap $10 RCA HDTV antenna at best buy when I got the TV last night just to get some HD content before I get a cable box in my bedroom (have one in the living room). I had the TV do the autoscan and it found 28 channels. Whenever I go to say NBC's digital feed (in Southern California it's 4.1) its very pixelated and jumpy. It's like when your cable box doesn't get a clean feed. Is this due to a setting I haven't made on the TV, the cheap antenna or my local reception? Is there anything I have to adjust on the TVs settings to pick up clear OTA HD content?

Also, does anyone know where I can follow a guide or instructions on how to calibrate my TV. I don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks for a professional to come out. I would just like to do some basic stuff to optimize my TV settings.

Thanks guys, I love this site, it's so helpful.

i use EPG frequently and can't say that I have experienced that (knock knock), which channel did this occur on?

I think the long title is from NJN (PBS). The last letter was E. I was confused for while why I have an E on the screen. Reboot, it's gone. Then I hit it second time in EPG, realized what's causing it.

I must say that despite the value of this as a computer monitor/TV I really can't recommend it anymore to other people (personally experienced freeze up twice and have since turned off e-saver), and now that prices are dropping everywhere the westy doesn't look as good

Once the new 46" Vizio comes out (supposedly soon) with 2000:1 contrast and 1920x1080 over all connections, it will destroy the Westy in quality and value. The new Sharp 64 series looks incredible as well.

I can no longer recommend this TV either since there has been no firmware update in 3 months, so many hardware and software bugs, and other tvs that are better are now close in price. Even the Sceptre TV has had firmware updates already.

I still like my tv, but it has lost some of its value in my eyes. Unless the black levels or clipping black/white patterns can be fixed.... soon, I'll be looking into another TV. If the 52" model fixes alot of these problems, I might make the jump to it.

Once the new 46" Vizio comes out (supposedly soon) with 2000:1 contrast and 1920x1080 over all connections, it will destroy the Westy in quality and value. The new Sharp 64 series looks incredible as well.

I can no longer recommend this TV either since there has been no firmware update in 3 months, so many hardware and software bugs, and other tvs that are better are now close in price. Even the Sceptre TV has had firmware updates already.

I still like my tv, but it has lost some of its value in my eyes. Unless the black levels or clipping black/white patterns can be fixed.... soon, I'll be looking into another TV. If the 52" model fixes alot of these problems, I might make the jump to it.

How exactly has it lost its value for you? Has it changed since you bought it? What else is available now at the same price that you would buy?

And how exactly do you know what the Vizio will look like? Have you seen it or have you just bought into the "it has good specs so it must be better" line of thought? Every Vizio I have seen on display looks like a second rate brand compared to Westinghouse models.

Please share with us.

fafner

The vizio models available now should be all 1000:1 like the westy, but he's talking about the next gen panels, which should be in line with samsungs previous generation (61, 65) and therefore will destroy the westy as the clipping + black levels and no firmware updates + pretty bad CS leads to probably no repeat buyers

I for one will get rid of this the next time one of those bugs comes up..if not this will be eventually relegated to playing the kids dvd's when it is replaced

just last week sharp was letting the 42" 64u's for a grand, essentially what most of us got the westy for..except it has a pc input (62u lacked vga), prices are up now, but like most of the newer stuff coming out it has the 2000:1 panels (10,000:1 dynamic), and 4ms refresh

The vizio models available now should be all 1000:1 like the westy, but he's talking about the next gen panels, which should be in line with samsungs previous generation (61, 65) and therefore will destroy the westy as the clipping + black levels and no firmware updates + pretty bad CS leads to probably no repeat buyers

I for one will get rid of this the next time one of those bugs comes up..if not this will be eventually relegated to playing the kids dvd's when it is replaced


And the next generation of Westinghouse models will be what? Remember "apples vs oranges?"

fafner

maybe...but the QC problems, lack of firmware updates, and bad CS will have me looking for another brand the next time around

you shouldn't have to be "lucky" to have a TV that works

and yes I still do like mine, though I am reminded of the black detail issues everytime I pull up a dark movie

maybe...but the QC problems, lack of firmware updates, and bad CS will have me looking for another brand the next time around

you shouldn't have to be "lucky" to have a TV that works

and yes I still do like mine, though I am reminded of the black detail issues everytime I pull up a dark movie

This is the world we live in now. You can choose to participate in and live with the consequences or sit on the sidelines. To pretend the world today is like it was 10 or even 5 years ago is unrealistic.

fafner

Hey guys I tried searching to no avail:

I've had my tv now for about 5 weeks. Until 2 days ago I had my DVR/cable box plugged into HDMI1 being all fine and dandy and passing through audio just like it should. Now when I switch to HDMI1 it displays "No input detected." I tried moving to HDMI2-4 and had the same results. When I plug my cable box in via component video it displays a picture just fine... so I don't think it is the cable box. Any idea why the HDMI no longer works on my westinghouse?

maybe...but the QC problems, lack of firmware updates, and bad CS will have me looking for another brand the next time around

you shouldn't have to be "lucky" to have a TV that works

and yes I still do like mine, though I am reminded of the black detail issues everytime I pull up a dark movie

What is QC and CS?

With what's gone on throughout my read of this thread and my posts being ignored, I think I'm nearly there to saying goodbye to this TV. Reason why I got this thing was that I heard Westy was awesome (the 1080p 37" monitor started it all) but I wanted something more. Unfortunately this TV makes me want to change my mind.

My mother also has this TV and she of course has no problems, but she only wants to use it for viewing TV and the occasional DVD. This TV is perfect for that. This can't cut it for me if it keeps crapping on me when I'm merely trying to play games.

Last night I tried out PS2 on S-Video... just as a test. As soon as I turn it on loud static noise occurs and then the TV decides to turn itself off. Unbelievably, there was no need for Reboot as it resets and brings it back just fine!

The black details mentioned in here cannot be denied. I thought it was just the fact that black was simply not dark enough. For me, it's the fact that shades of black are not distinguished well enough, so if there was a setting in dark room, instead of seeing the contents of room being dark, the whole thing is dark. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced it with this, but like I said in my earlier post I should be tinkering with the settings a little more to find out for sure.

What is QC and CS?

With what's gone on throughout my read of this thread and my posts being ignored, I think I'm nearly there to saying goodbye to this TV. Reason why I got this thing was that I heard Westy was awesome (the 1080p 37" monitor started it all) but I wanted something more. Unfortunately this TV makes me want to change my mind.

My mother also has this TV and she of course has no problems, but she only wants to use it for viewing TV and the occasional DVD. This TV is perfect for that. This can't cut it for me if it keeps crapping on me when I'm merely trying to play games.

Last night I tried out PS2 on S-Video... just as a test. As soon as I turn it on loud static noise occurs and then the TV decides to turn itself off. Unbelievably, there was no need for Reboot as it resets and brings it back just fine!

The black details mentioned in here cannot be denied. I thought it was just the fact that black was simply not dark enough. For me, it's the fact that shades of black are not distinguished well enough, so if there was a setting in dark room, instead of seeing the contents of room being dark, the whole thing is dark. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced it with this, but like I said in my earlier post I should be tinkering with the settings a little more to find out for sure.

QC = quality control
CS = customer service

This is the world we live in now. You can choose to participate in and live with the consequences or sit on the sidelines. To pretend the world today is like it was 10 or even 5 years ago is unrealistic.

fafner

Isn't that a bit of a stretch? We're just talking about TVs here..for reference our old school 52" 1080i RP SONY has been flawless since it was placed in the family room some 10odd years ago. I really can't even remember it was that long ago. I suppose some consequences are allowable and maybe its the limit for these 2nd tier TVs. Either way, I will be looking to another brand in the future.

Isn't that a bit of a stretch? We're just talking about TVs here..for reference our old school 52" 1080i RP SONY has been flawless since it was placed in the family room some 10odd years ago. I really can't even remember it was that long ago. I suppose some consequences are allowable and maybe its the limit for these 2nd tier TVs. Either way, I will be looking to another brand in the future.

RP technology is old school...that is why it was available 10 odd years ago. The new LCD and plasma TV's are light years more complicated that CRT's or RP sets.

Like you I will continue to be looking at new sets from ever maker when they come out. However, to date (literally) I have not seen one set that delivers wonderful 1080p at the price you can get a Westy for.

fafner

but fafner thats the exact problem we were discussing..because of the price drops and the westy being pretty much as low as it can go, the other brands are catching up. To be straight up, if it was only a two or three hundred difference, there is no question I would have picked a sharp/samsung/sony instead. At the time of purchase in July it was a great deal since the closest samsung with 1080p was considerably more. My point is that the prices are close enough NOW that it would be silly to honestly consider the westy with name brands or even vizio with the newer 2000:1 CR, since AFAIK westy is not upgrading their current TX series and the 52 is still not out yet

I just got this TV last night and have only tried a few things with it before I had to get to bed.

I purchased a cheap $10 RCA HDTV antenna at best buy when I got the TV last night just to get some HD content before I get a cable box in my bedroom (have one in the living room). I had the TV do the autoscan and it found 28 channels. Whenever I go to say NBC's digital feed (in Southern California it's 4.1) its very pixelated and jumpy. It's like when your cable box doesn't get a clean feed. Is this due to a setting I haven't made on the TV, the cheap antenna or my local reception? Is there anything I have to adjust on the TVs settings to pick up clear OTA HD content?

Also, does anyone know where I can follow a guide or instructions on how to calibrate my TV. I don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks for a professional to come out. I would just like to do some basic stuff to optimize my TV settings.

Thanks guys, I love this site, it's so helpful.

I hate to be the person who does this, but I feel my post may have been buried in that other discussion.

Can anyone help me with some suggestions with these issues? Thanks guys, I really am learning as I go along and appreciate anyone willing to teach me some things.

Hey guys I tried searching to no avail:

I've had my tv now for about 5 weeks. Until 2 days ago I had my DVR/cable box plugged into HDMI1 being all fine and dandy and passing through audio just like it should. Now when I switch to HDMI1 it displays "No input detected." I tried moving to HDMI2-4 and had the same results. When I plug my cable box in via component video it displays a picture just fine... so I don't think it is the cable box. Any idea why the HDMI no longer works on my westinghouse?

Smitty, try doing a power reset, remove power to the TV for 30 seconds and then plug it back in. I had a simliar problem for several days, I could not get rid of it. Scheduled a repair call with Best Buy and wouldn't you know about it, set started working all over again. I had the exact same problem, component inputs, VGA and all were working, but HDMI stopped.

You might have to try a few resets. Let us know if it starts working for you again, I am afraid that my problem might reoccur.

I also notice that I have problems sometimes with HDMI if I switch to channels with different resolutions. The set goes to NO INPUT mode then. However, I can power off/on with the remote control to clear that failure.

but fafner thats the exact problem we were discussing..because of the price drops and the westy being pretty much as low as it can go, the other brands are catching up. To be straight up, if it was only a two or three hundred difference, there is no question I would have picked a sharp/samsung/sony instead. At the time of purchase in July it was a great deal since the closest samsung with 1080p was considerably more. My point is that the prices are close enough NOW that it would be silly to honestly consider the westy with name brands or even vizio with the newer 2000:1 CR, since AFAIK westy is not upgrading their current TX series and the 52 is still not out yet

Maybe prices of the "name" brands have fallen more than I realized. A quick Google search shows the Westy is available for $1,499 from newegg.com, and I believe I saw a recent BB ad where they were available for less. What "name brand" is anywhere close to that? As for the Vizio, as I said earlier, they ones I have seen dont come close to the Westy in PQ.

To the thread starter: I am very sorry for getting somewhat OT here. If I knew specifically how to help you I would have already done so.

fafner

Smitty, try doing a power reset, remove power to the TV for 30 seconds and then plug it back in. I had a simliar problem for several days, I could not get rid of it. Scheduled a repair call with Best Buy and wouldn't you know about it, set started working all over again. I had the exact same problem, component inputs, VGA and all were working, but HDMI stopped.

You might have to try a few resets. Let us know if it starts working for you again, I am afraid that my problem might reoccur.

I also notice that I have problems sometimes with HDMI if I switch to channels with different resolutions. The set goes to NO INPUT mode then. However, I can power off/on with the remote control to clear that failure.

Thanks rsandor that worked perfectly! You sir are truly a god amongst men!

Thanks rsandor that worked perfectly! You sir are truly a god amongst men!


This fixed my issue too! Thanks! Have you had to do it all since the first time you did it? This'll get old if you have to do it every few weeks or something. Also, any idea why after switching out of an HDMI input (to say, component), and switching back, the HDMI shows "no signal". This happens when im on pc and switching to tv, then back to pc. The power on\off with remote doesn't bring it back either. Thanks if anybody knows!

Isn't there another way to force a reset? Holding down the power button?

I think I may have have had this issue once with my very first Westy....long time ago....but it never surfaced again.

fafner

Maybe prices of the "name" brands have fallen more than I realized. A quick Google search shows the Westy is available for $1,499 from newegg.com, and I believe I saw a recent BB ad where they were available for less. What "name brand" is anywhere close to that? As for the Vizio, as I said earlier, they ones I have seen dont come close to the Westy in PQ.

To the thread starter: I am very sorry for getting somewhat OT here. If I knew specifically how to help you I would have already done so.

fafner

if we go by that price, then the equivalent samsung, the 4061f, that has 10,000:1 CR is a mere franklin more at BB.

As of now BB is the only B&M that carries the westy's and lets just say they were a few bens less than what you posted. That and the coupons that were involved.

With Vizio, I was referencing the poster above me who was talking about FUTURE models. Trust me when I say we're in agreement that the current models are somewhat mediocre.

Power reset can be done by holding the power button down on the right side of the TV for 30 seconds or until the W logo pops up again. I performed this twice in my first 4 weeks of ownership. Since then I have not used E saver mode.

Fafner, i'd be amazed if you've be using e-saver all this time and not have had to do a power reset at least once.

This fixed my issue too! Thanks! Have you had to do it all since the first time you did it? This'll get old if you have to do it every few weeks or something. Also, any idea why after switching out of an HDMI input (to say, component), and switching back, the HDMI shows "no signal". This happens when im on pc and switching to tv, then back to pc. The power on\off with remote doesn't bring it back either. Thanks if anybody knows!

Glad to help you guys. Since the first time this happened to me, it has re-occured about 1-2 times/week. I suspect that this behavior is somehow tied to the power saving settings of the TV. I never had this problem until I switched the power setting to on. My power bill is way to high and there was no way I wanted to waste the power to keep the set booted all the time.

I don't mind the reset needs nearly as much as the relatively poor black levels. I am keeping my fingers crossed that there is a firmware upgrade somewhere in the future.

if we go by that price, then the equivalent samsung, the 4061f, that has 10,000:1 CR is a mere franklin more at BB.

As of now BB is the only B&M that carries the westy's and lets just say they were a few bens less than what you posted. That and the coupons that were involved.

With Vizio, I was referencing the poster above me who was talking about FUTURE models. Trust me when I say we're in agreement that the current models are somewhat mediocre.

Power reset can be done by holding the power button down on the right side of the TV for 30 seconds or until the W logo pops up again. I performed this twice in my first 4 weeks of ownership. Since then I have not used E saver mode.

Fafner, i'd be amazed if you've be using e-saver all this time and not have had to do a power reset at least once.

See my post right about yours.

fafner

I just got this TV last night and have only tried a few things with it before I had to get to bed.

I purchased a cheap $10 RCA HDTV antenna at best buy when I got the TV last night just to get some HD content before I get a cable box in my bedroom (have one in the living room). I had the TV do the autoscan and it found 28 channels. Whenever I go to say NBC's digital feed (in Southern California it's 4.1) its very pixelated and jumpy. It's like when your cable box doesn't get a clean feed. Is this due to a setting I haven't made on the TV, the cheap antenna or my local reception? Is there anything I have to adjust on the TVs settings to pick up clear OTA HD content?

Also, does anyone know where I can follow a guide or instructions on how to calibrate my TV. I don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks for a professional to come out. I would just like to do some basic stuff to optimize my TV settings.

Thanks guys, I love this site, it's so helpful.

I don't know why you are seeing NBC in such awful quality. I have a more expensive inside antenna connected to one of my Westy's and the PQ is just as good as when I am tuned to D* on the same set or from OTA sources on the other set which has an external antenna mounted on my chimney.

As far as calibrating your set, the easiest and simplest way is to tune to a channel that has good quality video and then fiddle with the various picture options (backlight, brighness, etc) until you get what you consider best. AFAICR, best PQ seemed to be with most settings ranging from 45-55 except for shaprness (best at 0).

Next step is to buy or borrow, Video Essentials or another calibration DVD and follow the instructions.

Last step which I have never done is to hire a professional who has specialized measureing equipment to make very fine adjustments.

Hope this is helpful.

fafner

you guys are making buying this TV sound like a game of russian roulette, what would you say the odds are of me getting one without any major flaws?

you guys are making buying this TV sound like a game of russian roulette, what would you say the odds are of me getting one without any major flaws?

Based on past experience of myself and others, I would say the chances of you getting a set with no problems are very high...certainly greater than 95% and probably as high as 99+%. And probably not any different that getting any new brand these days. The old days of "buy a crt and have it work immediately and forever" are gone.

fafner

you guys are making buying this TV sound like a game of russian roulette, what would you say the odds are of me getting one without any major flaws?

I think this forum has a skewed ratio of bad sets because most people that buy one of these TV's has no need to go searching for help. It's those of us that happen to get a bad TV and start googling for some help that we run across this forum, which is exactly why/how I found this forum.

Well, BB was supposed to be out today. When I called and set up the appointment they said the first available time was Friday, but that because I had just purchased the TV a week earlier, they would push it so that I could get somebody out on Thursday (today). Hmmmm. I called them around noon (someone was supposed to call me today between 7AM and 9AM), but when they looked it up they said that they sent the date for Thursday, but the "other" department (the ones that actually dispatch someone) must not have been able to fit it in. They apologized, and said that it was scheduled for Friday and someone will call me between 7AM and 9AM. At 9:30AM I will be calling them if they haven't called by then. Crossing my fingers hoping all will be well and I get it working tomorrow.

With all of that said, does anybody think I could blindly move through the menus to try and turn off (or on) the Power Saving mode. Anybody think any other menu changes might "fix" the lack of video. I know there is a setting under audio (I think) that changes the TV to audio only and will blank out the video. Everything is working except the video. I can change (using the remote and the controls on the TV) inputs to different devices, change the volume and I believe the menu will work (I just can't see it). Could someone post the button sequences (e.g. "To turn of the power saving mode press: menu, 3 rights, 4 downs, 1 left, enter" or something like that) that I could follow to try and change some settings? I have the TX-47F430S with a build-on date of "2007 June 26" and Software Version 5121_1.3.0.

Thanks for any help.

As far as callibrating your TV, IMO, it is very personal and subjective. A lot will depend on your viewing environment (and even that changes). In general, LCD displays are very good for bright viewing environments. If you're viewing a football game on Saturday or Sunday afternoons, you will want to use some different settings than if you are going to watch a horror movie at night with all the lights off. You'll have to play around with the settings under the viewing conditions you'll want to adjust for.

Has anyone tried adjusting their sets using one of the color calibration devices such as a Pantone huey PRO (http://www.pantone.com/pages/products/product.aspx?pid=550&ca=2) or an Xrite Eye-One (http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?id=788)? What are your thoughts about using one of these? Obviously you would have to have your PC connected to make the adjustments. Are there devices designed specifically for TV's that would be better?

Well, BB was supposed to be out today. When I called and set up the appointment they said the first available time was Friday, but that because I had just purchased the TV a week earlier, they would push it so that I could get somebody out on Thursday (today). Hmmmm. I called them around noon (someone was supposed to call me today between 7AM and 9AM), but when they looked it up they said that they sent the date for Thursday, but the "other" department (the ones that actually dispatch someone) must not have been able to fit it in. They apologized, and said that it was scheduled for Friday and someone will call me between 7AM and 9AM. At 9:30AM I will be calling them if they haven't called by then. Crossing my fingers hoping all will be well and I get it working tomorrow.

With all of that said, does anybody think I could blindly move through the menus to try and turn off (or on) the Power Saving mode. Anybody think any other menu changes might "fix" the lack of video. I know there is a setting under audio (I think) that changes the TV to audio only and will blank out the video. Everything is working except the video. I can change (using the remote and the controls on the TV) inputs to different devices, change the volume and I believe the menu will work (I just can't see it). Could someone post the button sequences (e.g. "To turn of the power saving mode press: menu, 3 rights, 4 downs, 1 left, enter" or something like that) that I could follow to try and change some settings? I have the TX-47F430S with a build-on date of "2007 June 26" and Software Version 5121_1.3.0.

Thanks for any help.

I thought I would try to help you even though I have the previous model but immediately ran into a problem. When I press Menu the display shows where I was the last time I accessed the controls, and the same will be the case for you. Unless I know where your cursor actually is at this point, it is not possible to ensure that you get to the top menu which is where you need to be.

Sorry.

fafner

Well I picked up the 47in on Monday. Set it up tuesday. Watched it tuesday and wednesday nights after work. Got home today after work and it won't turn on... Shows the westinghouse logo than goes back to blank.

I have tried unplugging it for up to 10min multiple times, still won't turn on when plugged back in. Have tried unplugging every single cable plugged in... Still won't turn on.

Best buy does not have any more in stock for a switch, said to bring it in and they would take a look at it. Of course they probably won't be able to do anything and than it will basically just be a full refund and a waste of 2 weeks of my time. (8 days while they ordered the tv from main warehouse, 4 days with tv taking it home, setting it all up, taking it all apart, reboxing it, returning it)

What a Colassal waste of time... Completely makes me want to not buy any tv right now. Just going to go back to staying with my 42" plasma edtv for now.

Well I picked up the 47in on Monday. Set it up tuesday. Watched it tuesday and wednesday nights after work. Got home today after work and it won't turn on... Shows the westinghouse logo than goes back to blank.

I have tried unplugging it for up to 10min multiple times, still won't turn on when plugged back in. Have tried unplugging every single cable plugged in... Still won't turn on.

Best buy does not have any more in stock for a switch, said to bring it in and they would take a look at it. Of course they probably won't be able to do anything and than it will basically just be a full refund and a waste of 2 weeks of my time. (8 days while they ordered the tv from main warehouse, 4 days with tv taking it home, setting it all up, taking it all apart, reboxing it, returning it)

What a Colassal waste of time... Completely makes me want to not buy any tv right now. Just going to go back to staying with my 42" plasma edtv for now.

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried holding down the power button? That should force a reset of the set.

fafner

Indeed I have... Held for 10 seconds... held for 20 seconds... even sat and held it for over a minute... nothing works. Just shows logo, than goes blank again with amber light.

And thanks for the welcome although I wish it was for a positive review.

Indeed I have... Held for 10 seconds... held for 20 seconds... even sat and held it for over a minute... nothing works. Just shows logo, than goes blank again with amber light.

And thanks for the welcome although I wish it was for a positive review.

Sorry but I have no more suggestions for you. I know you are terribly disappointed but if I were you I would insist that BB find another set and expedite its shipment to you. Talk to the manager and explain how long you have already waited and how much time you have invested already. I doubt he will want to lose a customer and if he is motivated enough he can call other stores to find one that is close enough to you to get it to you within a few days.

Good luck.

fafner

1080p on component for my 360 is actually worse than 720p/1080i. 1080p kinda blurs a little bit more, while 720p/1080i looked more crisp. Is this really supposed to happen? I was told component should be very capable of doing 1080p.

It's day four so far and it hasn't died since I fixed it by reboot two days ago. I tried Gears of War on the 360 and unless my settings are wrong (see cnet) I feel that some parts that are dark are just plain blacked out. I'll look into it a little more. Tonight I'll also test Wii and even PS2 (that's right not 3) on component.

I had a friend come over with the HD-component cables and the xbox 360 was also blurry over component. I tried both component slots and they weren't as crisp at all. (gears of war) Everything looked sort of blurry. What could the problem be? I still have time to return the set. PC over HDMI is amazing but I really want EVERYTHING to work. Anyone with a 360 over components have any complaints?

How exactly has it lost its value for you? Has it changed since you bought it? What else is available now at the same price that you would buy?

And how exactly do you know what the Vizio will look like? Have you seen it or have you just bought into the "it has good specs so it must be better" line of thought? Every Vizio I have seen on display looks like a second rate brand compared to Westinghouse models.

Please share with us.

fafner

Yes, I have compared the Vizio 47, Philips 47, and Westinghouse together, and the Vizio easily beats out the Westy in black levels, while the Sharp and Philips TVs absolutely kill it. The Westy does have great color though, and no other TV out of those can do VGA at 1080P (which I need for my xbox360).

My main gripe is the always on Dynamic Contrast, and clipped test patterns. It is almost certainly a software error causing this, and it hasnt been addressed. Fixing this would basically make black levels a bit more tolerable, and would make this TV on par with everyone else. I even gave Westinghouse a list of bugs when I bought the TV in June which mimics the front page, and they haven't done a damn thing about them in 4 months. There is no excuse for this, since every manufacturer with a usb port has issued firmware updates, like Sharp, Samsung, even Sceptre.

I had a friend come over with the HD-component cables and the xbox 360 was also blurry over component. I tried both component slots and they weren't as crisp at all. (gears of war) Everything looked sort of blurry. What could the problem be? I still have time to return the set. PC over HDMI is amazing but I really want EVERYTHING to work. Anyone with a 360 over components have any complaints?

Component itself will be blurry compared to HDMI and VGA regardless of what device you use. Buy the Xbox360 VGA cable. It is much more crisp, and almost rivals HDMI.

Component itself will be blurry compared to HDMI and VGA regardless of what device you use. Buy the Xbox360 VGA cable. It is much more crisp, and almost rivals HDMI.

But blurry to the point where I think there is something wrong with the set? I'm no expert by any means and don't really notice some differences(to an extent) that you guys do but while palying gears of war, there was no poppy-3dness to the picture. Look at one of the locust' heads with all the veins and you will see what I am talking about. I couldn't really make out the veins at all and it was almost a borderline smudge. Should it be that bad?

Another example would be the main menu. The lines were not well defined. They had added *fuzz* to them, if that helps explain my issue.

Yes, I have compared the Vizio 47, Philips 47, and Westinghouse together, and the Vizio easily beats out the Westy in black levels, while the Sharp and Philips TVs absolutely kill it. The Westy does have great color though, and no other TV out of those can do VGA at 1080P (which I need for my xbox360).

My main gripe is the always on Dynamic Contrast, and clipped test patterns. It is almost certainly a software error causing this, and it hasnt been addressed. Fixing this would basically make black levels a bit more tolerable, and would make this TV on par with everyone else. I even gave Westinghouse a list of bugs when I bought the TV in June which mimics the front page, and they haven't done a damn thing about them in 4 months. There is no excuse for this, since every manufacturer with a usb port has issued firmware updates, like Sharp, Samsung, even Sceptre.

I agree with you that blacks are not black enough as I would like on the Westy. But I accepted that because of the fantastic color and shapness of the picture. I'm hoping that black levels will be greatly improved on all LCD's during 2008 since that has been one of the admitted drawbacks to this technology. The use of LED backlighting instead of fluourensce is supposed to help but I understand that its implemention has not been perfect in the one set that tried it...I forget what brand that is.

fafner

But blurry to the point where I think there is something wrong with the set? I'm no expert by any means and don't really notice some differences(to an extent) that you guys do but while palying gears of war, there was no poppy-3dness to the picture. Look at one of the locust' heads with all the veins and you will see what I am talking about. I couldn't really make out the veins at all and it was almost a borderline smudge. Should it be that bad?

Another example would be the main menu. The lines were not well defined. They had added *fuzz* to them, if that helps explain my issue.

I have used component and dvi from a computer to the Westy and never saw anything like the blurriness or smudges you are describing. Do you have something else, ie, a DVD player, that you can connect via component to see if you have the same problem with it? Sorry if you have already tried this without success, but the results should narrow down the probable cause of the problem.

fafner

Component itself will be blurry compared to HDMI and VGA regardless of what device you use. Buy the Xbox360 VGA cable. It is much more crisp, and almost rivals HDMI.

I have the 360 VGA cable, but how do you get the audio to your TV? There are no composite audio inputs next to the VGA input on the tv.

I have the 360 VGA cable, but how do you get the audio to your TV? There are no composite audio inputs next to the VGA input on the tv.

You can use the optical out port on the cable, or you can buy an audio Y-adapter at radio shack that converts the red/white connection to the (headphone) size green connection that is there for the VGA port. The adapters are less than $7 usually.

But blurry to the point where I think there is something wrong with the set? I'm no expert by any means and don't really notice some differences(to an extent) that you guys do but while palying gears of war, there was no poppy-3dness to the picture. Look at one of the locust' heads with all the veins and you will see what I am talking about. I couldn't really make out the veins at all and it was almost a borderline smudge. Should it be that bad?

Another example would be the main menu. The lines were not well defined. They had added *fuzz* to them, if that helps explain my issue.

If you have a june 26 model 42", there actually may be something wrong with your set. You aren't the first person to report this. Kenpachi went through the same issue. The 47" models and april 13th models dont suffer from this from what I've seen in this thread

speaking of firmware and model date differences, any updates huggybear?

I was looking for a model date on my 47" yesterday but could not find one. Can anyone tell me where its located?

Thanks.

But blurry to the point where I think there is something wrong with the set? I'm no expert by any means and don't really notice some differences(to an extent) that you guys do but while palying gears of war, there was no poppy-3dness to the picture. Look at one of the locust' heads with all the veins and you will see what I am talking about. I couldn't really make out the veins at all and it was almost a borderline smudge. Should it be that bad?

Another example would be the main menu. The lines were not well defined. They had added *fuzz* to them, if that helps explain my issue.

What resolution do you have set in the Xbox 360 controller blade? Make sure the analog switch on the component cable is set to HDTV and the resolution on the Xbox 360 blade is set to 1080p. I believe these sets will do 1080p for games and such over component.

Good Luck,

Alex

P.S. I have a 360 and PS3 and have had to play with these settings some before I got everything where I wanted them.

1080p on component for my XBox 360 is actually worse than 720p/1080i. 1080p kinda blurs a little bit more, while 720p/1080i looked more crisp. Is this really supposed to happen? I was told component should be very capable of doing 1080p.

It's day four so far and it hasn't died since I fixed it by reboot two days ago. I tried Gears of War on the 360 and unless my settings are wrong (see cnet) I feel that some parts that are dark are just plain blacked out. I'll look into it a little more. Tonight I'll also test Wii and even PS2 (that's right not 3) on component.

I wouldn't trust CNET as far as I could throw them. In the part of the article where they slammed the TX on its looks (meaning the overall design of the frame etc, which I think is great) they mentioned the "micro-perforated" strip of silver at the bottom that hides the speakers. Huh? Funny, I don't see any perforations in mine, micro- or otherwise. What set did these guys review?

I really can't offer any reliable setting for Xbox 360 or component; I have a component line run from my receiver, but it really only serves up upconverted composite signals from an old VCR, which I've used maybe once for something my kids wanted to watch. Oh, I guess it would also carry the video from my DVD player, but I haven't used that either - I have an HTPC w/ a 360 HD-DVD drive.

That being said, I posted my HDMI settings several pages back, for both HDTV and DVD/HD-DVD watching. The higher (61, maybe?) brightness setting that I give was arrived at specifically by trying to "de-blob" a whole lot of black suits on "Law and Order" in HD, while keeping everything else looking natural. May or may not serve as a useful starting point, I don't know - component settings may have to be much different.

Ed

x84HurstOlds thanks for the info. So was you ever able to recover your first set? I agree that the images looked kind of "Infrared" but my PC looks fine on my 22" LCD with no problems at all. I have tried inserting signal cables one at a time with no luck. Still just a black screen with a blue LED. I'm kind of scared to buy another Westinghouse 47". This really sucks, this TV is awesome when it was working.

No, the first TV went back. It was only later that someone reported the "unplug everything" trick. I can't recall the details now, but I think they started by booting up with just the coax plugged in...

And later still I had the issue where I couldn't get rid of the infrared until I corrected the video problem with the PC.

But I never got a display back on the first set.

Ed

Fafner, i'd be amazed if you've be using e-saver all this time and not have had to do a power reset at least once.

I'm not even going to jinx myself here...

Ed

Yes, I have compared the Vizio 47, Philips 47, and Westinghouse together, and the Vizio easily beats out the Westy in black levels, while the Sharp and Philips TVs absolutely kill it. The Westy does have great color though, and no other TV out of those can do VGA at 1080P (which I need for my xbox360).

My main gripe is the always on Dynamic Contrast, and clipped test patterns. It is almost certainly a software error causing this, and it hasnt been addressed. Fixing this would basically make black levels a bit more tolerable, and would make this TV on par with everyone else. I even gave Westinghouse a list of bugs when I bought the TV in June which mimics the front page, and they haven't done a damn thing about them in 4 months. There is no excuse for this, since every manufacturer with a usb port has issued firmware updates, like Sharp, Samsung, even Sceptre.

What do you mean, "always on"? Mine seems to be off when I turn it off.

Ed

I'm not even going to jinx myself here...

Ed

Hmm... Are you not using HDMI? I have a feeling that is what causes the problems, while in E. Saver mode.

THis TV NEEDS a firmware upgrade. I've had it since June, and that annoying pink line on normal TV content having to be reset 3-4 times a viewing session is really getting old. The HDMI handshakes as well. I enjoy it as much as I can, but it is a mere firmware upgrade away from being a great set...why...oh why...can't Westinghouse just fix the problems?

its not HDMI, since I've had to do it twice, and all I have connected is VGA for the PC, two component connections Wii and PS2, and coax from the antenna

What do you mean, "always on"? Mine seems to be off when I turn it off.

Ed

When you turn off dynamic contrast, there is still a small degree of dynamic contrast being used.

The easiest way to see this is to scroll a test pattern from left to right. The blacks/whites get lighter or darker when they are moved.

I wouldn't trust CNET as far as I could throw them. In the part of the article where they slammed the TX on its looks (meaning the overall design of the frame etc, which I think is great) they mentioned the "micro-perforated" strip of silver at the bottom that hides the speakers. Huh? Funny, I don't see any perforations in mine, micro- or otherwise. What set did these guys review?

I really can't offer any reliable setting for Xbox 360 or component; I have a component line run from my receiver, but it really only serves up upconverted composite signals from an old VCR, which I've used maybe once for something my kids wanted to watch. Oh, I guess it would also carry the video from my DVD player, but I haven't used that either - I have an HTPC w/ a 360 HD-DVD drive.

That being said, I posted my HDMI settings several pages back, for both HDTV and DVD/HD-DVD watching. The higher (61, maybe?) brightness setting that I give was arrived at specifically by trying to "de-blob" a whole lot of black suits on "Law and Order" in HD, while keeping everything else looking natural. May or may not serve as a useful starting point, I don't know - component settings may have to be much different.

Ed

Yeah, I now found out that settings are really user dependant. Everything else serves as reference.

No matter what though, I can't change the fact that when watching a guy walk into dark room I see nothing when I should, I don't think there's a setting for that. Bright colors are very nice but the black is definitely a major issue for this tv.

Are the settings derived from using an Avia disc in a DVD connected by
S-Video simply used for all the other inputs? If not how to calibrate
YPbPr where the cable set top box is connected?

Yeah, I now found out that settings are really user dependant. Everything else serves as reference.

No matter what though, I can't change the fact that when watching a guy walk into dark room I see nothing when I should, I don't think there's a setting for that. Bright colors are very nice but the black is definitely a major issue for this tv.

If you are losing detail in dark scenes you need to increase either the backlight or the brightness. Doing either will have side effects of either washing out the image or losing white detail. You have to find a balance that you are comfortable with. Using some test patterns on my VGA/PC input I was able to find a setting that I could distinctly make out shades of all colors (including white, gray, and black) in 4% increments.

For those interested and missed them earlier in the thread my settings are:

Brightness 67
Contrast 51
Sat 48
Hue 50
Sharpness 25
Backlight 0
Color: Warm

If there are dark scenes that I lose a bit of detail then I will bump up the backlight to 30.

Hope that helps!

Is there any adjustment of the borders of the actual picture.My tx-47 on hdmi 1 the picture in to far up.You can see the top of the cannel on the bottom of the screen.

Hey guys. I've had my set for a few weeks now. I actually love it. but i have one problem. for a few minutes after i start up the tv and when I turn it off, i get a popping or crackling sound coming form the back of the set. there is nothing wrong with any of the functionality on mine, so i don't think its causing an issue, but I'm wondering what it could be. It kinda sounds like pop/snap, sorta like a static shock maybe? I'm not sure how to describe. I did a search for popping and heard people talking about the speakers, but this isn't coming out of the speakers. Anyone got any suggestions?
I too have this popping/snapping type sound on my TX-42 for the first few minutes of turning it on or off but weird I can't recall it happening the first weeks of owning the set.

My first suspicion is it is like when a wood framed house settles down in the cooler nighttime, as the air cools the wood tends to pop, kinda like after you walk on subfloors as well.

So I am hoping that when the Westy is warming-up after being turned on, the plastic frame or some mechanism inside clicks/pops/snaps whatever you want to call it until it warms up. Conversely when you turn the set off it is cooling down and so some internal component is cooling down or plastic case contracting and as such making some settling down sounds until cooled off.

I used to own a JVC tube tv and that thing would scare the heck out of me many times after going the bed it would make these loud cracking sounds which I attributed to the plastic frame expanding or contracting as the set cooled off.

I keeping saying i will call Westinghouse about this but feel they would just brush it off and not be able to explain anything based on other forum mbrs experience with them.

I am not too worried about it unless the noises start going longer and longer.
I actually am at the point where I can count how many pops will happen when turning it off, which is about three or four pops before I hear no more over a few minute period.

Thx and good luck, Steve.

Hello I just purchased the TX-47F430S and like everything but I do have one problem and wondered if anyone else has this problem and if you think I need to take it back to BB for exchange. When I change channels the picture stutters or flickers or something (looks like what happens when there is a scratch on a dvd movie and it stutters). Any way my other plasma changes channels smoothly but this one jitters every time the channel is changed.

OK, so I have a TX-42F430S and a PS3. Everything has been fine... great tv. I think my only compaint has been a faint blue line that appears down the centre of the display when viewing SD signal from my digital cable box. I know it's not the tv because it never appears in an HD signal and I have no issues with blu-ray or DVDs for that matter. Anyway... My issue started about a month ago when Sony released it's 1.90 update for the PS3. I started getting flickering video. I put it down to sony screwing up my ps3 and given all the other issues that people were experiencing with this update specific to network issues I decided to wait until the newer update. 4 days ago Sony released their version 1.92 update for the PS3. It actually seemed to make my troubles worse not better. I then recalled reading opening post to this thread and realised that this might be the issue that I am having. To make sure it wasn't simply my ps3 dropping out entirely I connected the optical and changed the PS3 settings to route audio through the optical cable as oposed to through the HDMI cable. Sure enough volume stays on, but the video cuts out. I had read somewhere that getting a sony cable HDMI cable would fix this issue but I'm hesitant to just throw $70 at the issue to find out that this doesn't work. What seems more likely to me is that Sony has firmed up the HDCP on the PS3 and given the existing issues with the TX-42F430S and the PS3 I think it's just pushed this over the edge. Does anyone know if Westinghouse intends to address the ps3? Are any firmware updates intended for the TX-42F430S, and if so how would I go about installing it? My fear is that it's just going to stay like this and that I'm going to have to sell my TX-42F430S.

EDIT: actually I'm thinking about this, are games actually affected by HDCP, or is it simply part of the output on an HDMI cable out of the PS3?

will the picture quality of a DVD running in a computer be better if
it is connected to TV by S-Video? Or VGA?

will the picture quality of a DVD running in a computer be better if
it is connected to TV by S-Video? Or VGA?


VGA. The limit on quality then becomes the limit of your video card.

fafner

Hello I just purchased the TX-47F430S and like everything but I do have one problem and wondered if anyone else has this problem and if you think I need to take it back to BB for exchange. When I change channels the picture stutters or flickers or something (looks like what happens when there is a scratch on a dvd movie and it stutters). Any way my other plasma changes channels smoothly but this one jitters every time the channel is changed.

So am I the only one with this particular problem?

So am I the only one with this particular problem?

My tx42f430s has the exact same problem. I think this is normal? I remember reading another post in this thread that this is common...

Peachy.

I have had this TV for about a week now and have noticed some audio syncing issues.

After about a half hour or so of watching a Blu-Ray (PS3) or a DVD the audio loses sync with the video. Does anyone know what is causing this or if this is a known issue?

Is it more likely the PS3 or the TV causing this issue?

My tx42f430s has the exact same problem. I think this is normal? I remember reading another post in this thread that this is common...

Peachy.

Yes, it is normal behavior for this TV. After having the set for a few months I don't even notice it anymore.

When you turn off dynamic contrast, there is still a small degree of dynamic contrast being used.

The easiest way to see this is to scroll a test pattern from left to right. The blacks/whites get lighter or darker when they are moved.

This is not the dynamic contrast continuing to function, it is a result of poor DC restoration function. It's existed on tvs forever and sadly seems like it will continue to. Panasonic plasmas all suffer from this as well for example. It's more an electrical/powersupply issue than a processing one. As the video signal and APL rise the color of black tends to rise with it, and a compensation mechanism is needed to prevent this and keep the black level correct. This is what is called DC Restoration. This set just doesn't do a very good job of it, and it's certainly not alone in that regard. There are more brands out there that suffer from this than there are ones that don't unfortunately. It's not very severe in this case, and it's technically not related to the level clipping that most definitely IS present. Cnet either got a bad sample or is just not competent, but the white clipping is greatly overstated by them. From my testing it seems to be dropping the 252-255 values, which isn't awful but certainly isn't something we want happening either. Black is worse with values 0-8 being dropped, and this combined with the poor DC Restoration problem becomes quite a bit more severe at high APL levels. On the other hand when the video is at high APL there usually aren't many black details on screen anyway so it's not all that significant.

These are common failings in tvs, even somewhat expensive ones. Can they be improved upon? The clipping yes, the DC restoration probably not. It's on the former that I care about personally.

Also, the real reason why I came out of the woodwork to post again: I've decided to resume using the E.Saver energy mode and take my chances. I find it impossible to believe a consumer product like this can make it to market that can be damaged simply by changing an option in the user menu. All has gone well so far, with nothing but normal boots. What prompted this change was the realization of what is really going on when the power mode is set to normal. After a tip here that the set was still displaying images when "off" I took a flashlight to the side of the panel and sure enough I could see moving images. This means the panel, the scaler/processer, the tuner, the powersupply...... everything in the set is running a 100% duty cycle! All shutting it off does is turn the backlight off. That is utterly silly and I've never seen anything like it. I assume westinghouse has duty cycle tested the unit and it is up to the challenge, but it just strikes me as so dumb that the set is functioning at such a capacity 24 hours a day. Letting it drink 50 watts of energy non-stop is pretty irresponsible too. With the backlight at zero like I run it the unit uses only about 70 watts while actually on, so using the Normal mode means there is almost no difference between turning it off or on. Sorry but that's just silly.

If I get an unrecoverable lockup and end up regretting this I will come back and report it, but I'm not terribly worried about it anymore. The 47" comes with in-home service and I intend to force the issue if the set fails.

Quick thought: why does everybody bash component video? It's not as inferior to HDMI/VGA as people think it is. It IS perfectly capable of carrying a 1080p video signal with no visible loss provided the cable isn't dimestore and the run length isn't long (no I'm not proposing buying expensive cables here either).

Hello I just purchased the TX-47F430S and like everything but I do have one problem and wondered if anyone else has this problem and if you think I need to take it back to BB for exchange. When I change channels the picture stutters or flickers or something (looks like what happens when there is a scratch on a dvd movie and it stutters). Any way my other plasma changes channels smoothly but this one jitters every time the channel is changed.

This is normal. You just learn to ignore it. It's only for about 2 seconds, though I suppose the hardcore channel surfers would be annoyed by it.

Quick thought: why does everybody bash component video? It's not as inferior to HDMI/VGA as people think it is. It IS perfectly capable of carrying a 1080p video signal with no visible loss provided the cable isn't dimestore and the run length isn't long (no I'm not proposing buying expensive cables here either).

Its not as much component in general as it is component on this TV. VGA provides a much less blurry/oversaturated pic to me on this set, when they should be somewhat equal.

I agree with E. Saver now as well. It will give me a good excuse to upgrade to a 52" if the set does die. I did notice an increase in my electric bill come to think of it, 100% uptime is not acceptable.

hehe a great excuse to upgrade..looks like I will go back too

hehe a great excuse to upgrade..looks like I will go back too

Sanity is restored! ;)

FWIW, well...you know, I really don't want to jinx myself before a Monday Night Eagles game...but I've been running E. Saver for a couple months now...and hey, I like the "excuse to upgrade" line of thought. :D

I must have missed the previous post about it actually displaying an image when off...that is crazy!

Ed

Hmm... Are you not using HDMI? I have a feeling that is what causes the problems, while in E. Saver mode.

No, I'm using HDMI 1 and HDMI 2. I have cable (now unused since Comcast cut off all the digital channels in my area), component (rarely used) and an old PS-1 hooked up by S-Video as well, but the HDMI hub is in use for 98% of the time the TV is on.

Ed

Yeah, I now found out that settings are really user dependant. Everything else serves as reference.

No matter what though, I can't change the fact that when watching a guy walk into dark room I see nothing when I should, I don't think there's a setting for that. Bright colors are very nice but the black is definitely a major issue for this tv.

Well, FWIW,

Bright = 61 (43 for HD-DVD from HTPC)
Contrast =74
Hue = 50
Sat = 50
Sharp = 0
Backlight = 20 (usually, plus or minus 10 sometimes)
Temp = Warm.

Detailed color settings are at their defaults (128).

Again, mostly watching in a darkened room, and the sources that matter are connected by HDMI.

Ed

Any help would be appreciated here. I am having syncing issues with audio and video.

I can't afford surround sound right now (maybe for xmas) and I use the speakers on the TV. Anyways, when I watch DVDs and Blu-Rays (PS3) the syncing gets messed up after awhile. For example, when watching people talk their lips and the audio don't go together like they should. I changed the HDMI ports to see if it was the ports, but it still happens.

Is this a known issue and should I return it to Best Buy?

I really could use some input. I feel like information overload, lol. I just went to Best Buy to replace my TV. The guy told me my syncing issues is because the 2 HDMI sources (PS3 going out and the TV coming in) are not both 1.3. He said the 1.3 from the PS3 is going to the 1.2b TV and that is causing the audio to lose sync with the video.

He also said that all HDMI cables are 1.3 and it's the sources that are not. He said a 1.3 cable would do the same thing as a cable bought a year ago. Is this all true and seem accurate?

He told me this has been a known issue about 1080p TV sets for awhile and there really isn't much I can do.

Well had a bit of an odd happening today when I first turned on my Sony HD500 HD recorder HDMI 2 was not picking up the signal. Turned my TX47 on and off a few times which I guess isn't really on and off, Just turns off the back light from what I have read here. Ended up changing inputs to AV and then back to HDMI2 and it came back to detecting the signal. Was thinking I was going to have to try a reboot for a min. Still a bit unsettling.

The guy told me my syncing issues is because the 2 HDMI sources (PS3 going out and the TV coming in) are not both 1.3. He said the 1.3 from the PS3 is going to the 1.2b TV and that is causing the audio to lose sync with the video.

He also said that all HDMI cables are 1.3 and it's the sources that are not. He said a 1.3 cable would do the same thing as a cable bought a year ago. Is this all true and seem accurate?

He told me this has been a known issue about 1080p TV sets for awhile and there really isn't much I can do.

That's complete BS, IMHO. I have intermittent audio sync issues that come and go on digital broadcast channels from Comcast's QAM feed - no HDMI involved in my setup. Switching around between channels with different resolutions and/or SD analog channels will sometimes fix it. My take is that it's some wacky audio buffering issue due to buggy TV firmware.

Well had a bit of an odd happening today when I first turned on my Sony HD500 HD recorder HDMI 2 was not picking up the signal. Turned my TX47 on and off a few times which I guess isn't really on and off, Just turns off the back light from what I have read here. Ended up changing inputs to AV and then back to HDMI2 and it came back to detecting the signal. Was thinking I was going to have to try a reboot for a min. Still a bit unsettling.

I've got the 42" and from time to time experience the same problem. It seems sometimes the set has a problem locking on a signal in the HDMI ports. If I switch inputs back and forth it seems to come right back. It's annoying but hopefully doesn't turn into anything serious down the road.

Also I do remember someone mentioning that having the tv on before the source
is on tends to stop this issue all together. I don't do it all the time as I leave my cable box on but, I usually switch inputs before turning on my dvd player.

I've got the 42" and from time to time experience the same problem. It seems sometimes the set has a problem locking on a signal in the HDMI ports. If I switch inputs back and forth it seems to come right back. It's annoying but hopefully doesn't turn into anything serious down the road.

Also I do remember someone mentioning that having the tv on before the source
is on tends to stop this issue all together. I don't do it all the time as I leave my cable box on but, I usually switch inputs before turning on my dvd player.

Well at least it may not be a sign of a problem. But I guess only time will tell. Just another annoyance.

Its not as much component in general as it is component on this TV. VGA provides a much less blurry/oversaturated pic to me on this set, when they should be somewhat equal.

I agree with E. Saver now as well. It will give me a good excuse to upgrade to a 52" if the set does die. I did notice an increase in my electric bill come to think of it, 100% uptime is not acceptable.

Xbox 360 over component looked fantastic on mine while I had one setup. This was 1080i (this 360 had old firmware), but I definitely did not feel the picture was soft.

If you are experiencing HDMI drop out with sony dvd check sony website for software upgrade. Also read Sony DVP-CX995V owner's thread - AVS Forum for more information. This fixed all my problems.:D

I bought the TX-42F430S about a week ago along with an xbox 360 and I've been experiencing some pretty bad video issues. The xbox is hooked up via the component cable that came with it. A tivo and playstation 2 are also connected.

At first I noticed the video would intermittently flicker while I was playing. The contrast seemed to go all wacky with horizontal lines and the image would jump around on the screen, but then usually return to normal in a minute. It occurred while watching DVDs, playing games, or just sitting at the menu. Today it started doing something slightly different where the screen would flash white and the image would jump around for a split second before returning to normal. I haven't been able to link it to anything reproducible, it just seems to happen randomly and it only occur while playing the xbox, not on the tivo or playstation (connected with the traditional red/white/yellow cable).

I plugged the 360 back into my old 20" standard definition television and wasn't able to notice any of the issues I was having previously.

I've done some reading and it seems that people were having issues with the HDMI inputs on the 42" westinghouse, but my xbox 360 is connected with the component cables. I'm going to take it over to a friends tomorrow to test the xbox on another HDTV with the component cable, but I'm trying to figure out if anyone else has had a similar issue. Also, whether it's probably caused by the TV, the xbox, or something else.

Edit: I originally posted this about a week ago, but it was in the LVM- model thread. Since then I bought an HDMI cable for the 360 and when it was connected with that I haven't noticed the issue at all. But for the past two days I've reconnected it with the component cables and I haven't noticed the issue at all. As much as I hope it fixed itself, I don't want this problem to come back in a month when I can no longer return or trade in the TV.

Anyone have any ideas?

That's complete BS, IMHO. I have intermittent audio sync issues that come and go on digital broadcast channels from Comcast's QAM feed - no HDMI involved in my setup. Switching around between channels with different resolutions and/or SD analog channels will sometimes fix it. My take is that it's some wacky audio buffering issue due to buggy TV firmware.

It may or may not be BS, but I don't think that your issues with the QAM feed really prove that one way or the other. You may be right, and/or you may be looking at a totally different issue.

To the OP: If the designers of HDMI had any brains, 1.3 should be fully backwards compatible with 1.2b. Of course, it's been established from the beginning that having a brain was not a criteria for being on the committee.

The part about the cable has a ring of "truthiness" to it. Perversely, I especially believe it coming from a BB employee, though that's not usually a preferred source of technical advice. The reason I believe him is, I don't know if they are on commission, but BB probably makes 25% of their profit on overpriced cables (assuming, as I have heard, that 75% is on extended warranties).

Even without the benefit of working brains, I can't believe that anyone would approve or even draft a spec, at this point in the HDMI life cycle, that would require different cables. I don't know that for sure, though.

Ed

This is normal. You just learn to ignore it. It's only for about 2 seconds, though I suppose the hardcore channel surfers would be annoyed by it.


Then I wonder if since only those of us having problems post on here and not the people who dont, is it just us having to live with this picture problem or do most people not have any channel flickering. I thought about exchanging it for another one but I am afraid I might end up with a set that has the same problem or worse. Should I just get another brand?

Well I picked up the 47in on Monday. Set it up tuesday. Watched it tuesday and wednesday nights after work. Got home today after work and it won't turn on... Shows the westinghouse logo than goes back to blank.

I have tried unplugging it for up to 10min multiple times, still won't turn on when plugged back in. Have tried unplugging every single cable plugged in... Still won't turn on.

Best buy does not have any more in stock for a switch, said to bring it in and they would take a look at it. Of course they probably won't be able to do anything and than it will basically just be a full refund and a waste of 2 weeks of my time. (8 days while they ordered the tv from main warehouse, 4 days with tv taking it home, setting it all up, taking it all apart, reboxing it, returning it)

What a Colassal waste of time... Completely makes me want to not buy any tv right now. Just going to go back to staying with my 42" plasma edtv for now.

I just picked up mine last night and set it up in my room. Everything looks great so far. I waited three weeks for this TV to arrive so I hope to god I don't suffer the same fate as you. :(

Then I wonder if since only those of us having problems post on here and not the people who dont, is it just us having to live with this picture problem or do most people not have any channel flickering. I thought about exchanging it for another one but I am afraid I might end up with a set that has the same problem or worse. Should I just get another brand?

If it really bothers you that much then that's your only option. I personally think you're over-reacting. Also, don't confuse "problems" with simple disappointments because that's not the same thing. My set has been functionally trouble-free and does everything I need it to do now that it's been paired with a proper HDMI device.

Ever since I've bought this TV is seems like I keep picking up stuff...18-200VR, Wii + 3 games, and now it looks like I finally need to get something to appreciate the 1080p + HDMI capabilities of the TV...thought about the oppo...but it looks like some of the HDDVD players that also upconvert do pretty well too..then there's PS3 w/ GT5 and Bluray...too many choices

I just picked up mine last night and set it up in my room. Everything looks great so far. I waited three weeks for this TV to arrive so I hope to god I don't suffer the same fate as you. :(

Thats great! Do your channels flicker when you change them?

Thats great! Do your channels flicker when you change them?

Dude, everyone's do. Televisions now are freaking special-purpose computers, if it's not channel flickering, something else will annoy you about any model you pick up. But the flickering (really a processing delay, it's probably syncing to the broadcasted resolution each time) is normal for this set. You can see if it still bugs you in a week or two, or try another brand, or get an alternate source - cable box, DVR/Tivo, PC with tuner, whatever - so that the other device handles the channel-change and the TV just sits there and displays what the other device feeds it. But as you've described it, it's not a problem with your particular set.

Ed

Thats great! Do your channels flicker when you change them?

If by "flicker" you mean TV changing resolution, based on the channels broadcast from your cable box then you can "fix" that by going into the menu of your cable/satelite box and telling it to output all channels using the same resolution.

On my Motorola cable box, to get into that menu you have to press the "menu" button when the cable box is OFF. In that menu you can sellect if you want the box to send the signal in its original resolution, 720p or 1080i, among other things. I have mine selected to send 1080i and it is working great for me.

I bought the TX-42F430S about a week ago along with an xbox 360 and I've been experiencing some pretty bad video issues.FWIW, I've had my 360 hooked up via component video for a few weeks with no problems. I think it looks dang sharp, regardless of what everyone here says about VGA and HDMI crushing component with this set. My only complaint is the blacks, but it's not too different than my old CRT (in daylight/glare situations, at least) so I'm still a happy TX-47 owner. :)

Short Story.

So my wonderful 47" died a few weeks ago due to a power outage. I was always scared of the lock-up problem, so I never had the E.Saver on. Ironically, it locked up anyways. So I quickly scheduled a technician to come and service my tv. Since my 30 days were up (purchased from BB in June), they had to repair it. But apparently they could not order any more power/display boards from Westinghouse. (This may have been mentioned in the thread somewhere, but I haven't been keeping up since I was enjoying my tv...) Anyways, they just let me exchange it, and I'll be picking up a new one this weekend. Just FYI.

Chris