Short Story.

So my wonderful 47" died a few weeks ago due to a power outage. I was always scared of the lock-up problem, so I never had the E.Saver on. Ironically, it locked up anyways. So I quickly scheduled a technician to come and service my tv. Since my 30 days were up (purchased from BB in June), they had to repair it. But apparently they could not order any more power/display boards from Westinghouse. (This may have been mentioned in the thread somewhere, but I haven't been keeping up since I was enjoying my tv...) Anyways, they just let me exchange it, and I'll be picking up a new one this weekend. Just FYI.

Chris

Sounds to me like there is no need for the BB warranty in the first year of purchase of this TV from Best Buy since they just exchange them anyways because they cant be repaired.

Short Story.

So my wonderful 47" died a few weeks ago due to a power outage. I was always scared of the lock-up problem, so I never had the E.Saver on. Ironically, it locked up anyways. So I quickly scheduled a technician to come and service my tv. Since my 30 days were up (purchased from BB in June), they had to repair it. But apparently they could not order any more power/display boards from Westinghouse. (This may have been mentioned in the thread somewhere, but I haven't been keeping up since I was enjoying my tv...) Anyways, they just let me exchange it, and I'll be picking up a new one this weekend. Just FYI.

Chris

Chris - good luck with your new TV.

I have said before and I'll say now - there was never any *proof* that E. Saver was the culprit, just speculation. Knowing what we know now, sure, I guess the TV is somewhat less likely to lockup IF YOU NEVER TURN IT OFF, which is apparently what you are doing when you DON'T use E. Saver. But that doesn't mean it won't happen, or that sooner or later you won't have a power outage or something. It's a faulty component or firmware that tends to manifest on boot, not an E. Saver problem per se, and frankly if it exists, I'd rather have my set fail and exchange it for one where whatever component is causing this is working properly.

Ed

Has anyone contacted Westinghouse regarding firmware updates recently? Wasn't the 52" model supposed to be out by now as well?

supposed to should be changed to possibly lol

on the topic of E saver, it makes sense that it increases the likelihood since everytime it turns on it has to go through the boot process whereas if you use normal the occasion is rarer

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3648123153480940794

Check out the link to see what the tv is doing while changing channels and see what you think.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3648123153480940794

Check out the link to see what the tv is doing while changing channels and see what you think.

That is more of a minor inconvenience than a major problem with the TV. I had to look 3 times before knowing what you were looking for. Happens on my TV as well, never bothered me once.

Hi All,

I am a new member and just got the TX42F430S today. I turned it on and already there's a blue line going down the screen. How do I get rid of this or is it something that can not be resolved, which leaves me no but choice to return the TV? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!
Chris

I am considering buying the TX-47F430S in the next few days. Can any of the owners here let me know what you think? Going to be used mainly for TV and HD DVD, with some PS3 as well.

Chris - good luck with your new TV.

I have said before and I'll say now - there was never any *proof* that E. Saver was the culprit, just speculation. Knowing what we know now, sure, I guess the TV is somewhat less likely to lockup IF YOU NEVER TURN IT OFF, which is apparently what you are doing when you DON'T use E. Saver. But that doesn't mean it won't happen, or that sooner or later you won't have a power outage or something. It's a faulty component or firmware that tends to manifest on boot, not an E. Saver problem per se, and frankly if it exists, I'd rather have my set fail and exchange it for one where whatever component is causing this is working properly.

Ed

I'll be picking up the new set tomorrow. I'll try the E. Saver this time and see how it goes. Thanks!

Chris

Ever since I've bought this TV is seems like I keep picking up stuff...18-200VR, Wii + 3 games, and now it looks like I finally need to get something to appreciate the 1080p + HDMI capabilities of the TV...thought about the oppo...but it looks like some of the HDDVD players that also upconvert do pretty well too..then there's PS3 w/ GT5 and Bluray...too many choices

I am living in a parallel universe. I am leaning toward PS3 for the Blu-Ray.

Has anyone found any speakers that easily attach to this TV. My TV is surrounded by woodwork and I don't have a way to mount speakers to the wall. Is there a sound bar that will sit on top?

Another question. Is it normal to see vertical bands of lighter and darker stripes when playing a dvd movie? They show up over the entire screen. Sometimes it can be seen in the movie rather clearly. I am using component cables coming straight from dvd player.

Another question. Is it normal to see vertical bands of lighter and darker stripes when playing a dvd movie? They show up over the entire screen. Sometimes it can be seen in the movie rather clearly. I am using component cables coming straight from dvd player.

No that is not normal although it is common in LCD sets. You can get a replacement sent to you via an RMA to Westinghouse but it will take several weeks.

Good Luck,

Alex

Hi All,

I am a new member and just got the TX42F430S today. I turned it on and already there's a blue line going down the screen. How do I get rid of this or is it something that can not be resolved, which leaves me no but choice to return the TV? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!
Chris

try it with other sources or if that does not work do a hard reset by holding down the power button for 30 seconds. If its still there after that I would return it, since this is definitely not normal

Welcome me to the club, I just ordered mine.

I've read about some issues with the HD-A20, which I was hoping to buy. Do those issues still exist? Should I stick with my A2 for now?

Also, anybody know what the HDMI version is?

Has the newer versions of this TV come out with updated firmware at all yet since its release?

Has the newer versions of this TV come out with updated firmware at all yet since its release?

Anyone who has bought a TV recently should check in their On Screen Menus to see if their TV has a firmware date more recent than june 26th. Im interested in this as well.

Question about using this as a PC monitor

I've got this hooked up to my PC via a DVI-HDMI cable from Monoprice. My card is an ATI x800. My issue is, on the left of my screen there is a gray bar maybe a centimeter wide, and it goes all the way down. It seems like it's just shifting my whole screen over, because when I move the mouse over to the right, it disappears when I would normally be able to see it

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Question about using this as a PC monitor

I've got this hooked up to my PC via a DVI-HDMI cable from Monoprice. My card is an ATI x800. My issue is, on the left of my screen there is a gray bar maybe a centimeter wide, and it goes all the way down. It seems like it's just shifting my whole screen over, because when I move the mouse over to the right, it disappears when I would normally be able to see it

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

The Westinghouse sets have no overcan built-in as most sets do so sometimes you will see what you see. You can elimiate it by changed from Standard to Full mode (I think that is what the options are called.)

fafner

Hello All,
A newby here to this fine forum.
I bought a TX-47F430S and plugged it in on 09-05-2007.
It has the Jun 26 2007 build date software.

As noted on the first post of this thread, it too immediately suffers from the lock-up syndrome.
Mine however seems to happen when I am looking at the OSD or when turning on or after watching for several hours and desire to turn it off for the night. The only solution to the lock-up seems to be to pull the plug out of the wall. Since viewing daily since the 5th, I would say the unit has locked-up at least 20 times. I am torn between exchanging it for another and hoping the next one has no issues or exchanging it towards something simular.
Best Buy has none in stock at the nearest 8 stores and will not order one in for exchange unless I buy one. Then when it arrives at the local store, bring mine in, cancel the purchase of the second one so I can turn around and exchange mine for the new one.

Is unplugging the power what is referred to as "reboot" ? I am not an AV efficienado (sic) so am not sure.
My only other issue is with what I would call over redness and washed out blues in the video. But I most likely need to spend time with the adjusments to make them better.
The auto-device detection is nice until you turn it off and then manually have to change inputs to go backwards.

I see it has a service port-(usb), can this be used as a normal usb port via some sort of secret code or is it strictly a service port?

And if it is a service port, when will Westinghouse issue a fix to the lockup issue and the others via this port?

When this unit is consistantly 25% less than it's nearest competitor, I suppose you should expect 25% less?.
Or does it mean the nearest competitor is making 25% more profit?:confused:

Sorry if this has been answered already, but this is a really long thread. I have the TX-42F430S and just got a home theater system go to with it. I'm am attempting to output over the SPDIF to my HTS but am getting no output. I have the audio set to mixed output on the tv, the signal is being fed over HDMI from my FiOS STB. When I connect the optical to the STB, i get the feed perfectly. I have also tested the setup by running by XBOX 360 over HDMI with the SPDIF plugged into the TV and still no output. Any ideas here?

Isn't the optical out used for the ATSC tuner only?

I was under the impression that as long as the HDMI outputs audio, the tv should output it back out as well. Our HTS only has one optical input so if I can't use the optical output from the TV, I'll either only be able to use the Cable Box or XBOX 360 with the HTS, or I'll have to get an optical switch.

Just curious, has anyone bought this tv and not had one single problem with it? I mean can this tv function as advertised?

I agree with some previous posts in that the majority of posters are here because we are the lucky owners of units with problems.

Any good business knows customers will tell others about problems more readily than they will offer praise.

That being said, there are 110 pages since this subject thread was started back in May 2007.

The first post is a compiled list of known problems with no cures which is a bit disheartening.

I bought mine in July and It has worked great since. It does not pass 5.1 out the optical audio for me but i just run the audio straight to my receiver.

I was under the impression that as long as the HDMI outputs audio, the tv should output it back out as well.

If you read back you'll see some debate as to whether this is due to a firmware bug or if this is due to HDCP restrictions on passing along parts of encrypted signals unencrypted. I've confirmed that on my set, the S/PDIF output passes through audio from all inputs except HDMI, but I don't know if the signal from my DirecTV HR20 is HDCP-encrypted or not (if anyone knows for sure, please chime in).

A good test here would be to pass a known-unencrypted HDMI signal and test the S/PDIF passthrough on that.

Just curious, has anyone bought this tv and not had one single problem with it? I mean can this tv function as advertised?

Very close here! I bought the TV at the beginning of Aug and used it for 1 night before it got moved to storage for 3 weeks before I moved into my new apt. I was very worried at first but when I unboxed the TV it still worked perfectly. About a week ago all 4 HDMI inputs stopped working... however unplugging the power cord for 30 seconds or so fixed the problem! So right now I've got a computer hooked up to the VGA input, PS2 via Component, and Insight Digital HDDVR via HDMI. Sometimes I use the TV speakers for TV viewing, but most of the sound is routed to a receiver. I don't use the audio output on the TV.

So I just got my TX-42F430S this past Friday, and as I understood it, I could get a simple UHF/VHF antenna, hook it up to the antenna coax input, and do an autoscan and it should find my HDTV stations in the area. The reception for my area is very good apparently from antennaweb, and I am on a 2nd story with no buildings or trees higher than me for about 8-10 blocks.

When I did an autoscan on "Air" selected under TV options, it only picked up the crappy tv stations with major static. is there something I should be doing to make sure it picks up the digital channels and not analog? How specifically did some of you get this going on your TX-42F430S?

I'm getting my HD-DVR box from Verizon fios within a week, but until then I'd love to see some over the air HDTV.

Also to add, when I select "autoscan", it scans through 1,2,3,4,5,etc..etc.. From what I have heard it should be scanning 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 2, 2.1, 2.2, etc..etc.. Is this correct? I'm sure someone on here has been able to get this working.

Also to add, when I select "autoscan", it scans through 1,2,3,4,5,etc..etc.. From what I have heard it should be scanning 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 2, 2.1, 2.2, etc..etc.. Is this correct? I'm sure someone on here has been able to get this working.

Go to the TV submenu and set "Channel Surf" to Digital, then rerun Autoscan.

ya know.. I'm pretty sure that was it.. but ya wanna know why I'm even dumber than most thought? Since I have fios, I can just plug in to the coax jack and get 1-59 in the clear.. so I'll get all of those local channels without the need of the antenna...

DURRRRR.. I'm a dum dum

Well ran into the no signal on HDMI again last night. Had to reboot to have it come back. There really is a bunch of things on this TV which probably could be fixed with a firmware update which who knows if that will ever come.

Wow, I just finished reading this entire thread over the last 2 weeks or so. It has really been educational. We have been enjoying the TX-47 for about 6 weeks now. I use mine in a different manner than most since it's really a display for MythTV on a MacMini (DVI->HDMI/RCA). The few pieces of HD media I have been able to procure look spectacular. Sadly the only 1080i channels Comcast sends over an analog subscription are NBC and CBS, so we really have virtually no opportunity to watch live HD content.

Anyway, I have noticed a couple of quirks that seem to have been overlooked with all of the power, lockup, e.saver, PS3 chatter and it turns out a couple of others noticed them too:

One bug I believe someone already mentioned earlier in the thread is that even when set to E.Saver, the set does not seem to enter that mode when a PC connected via HDMI (using a HDMI->DVI adapter) sends the DPMS command to turn the monitor off. It is entering the "normal" sleep mode that keeps the set warm to the touch (and wakes up extremely fast).Yes, I have exactly the same behavior with my MacMini running Fedora 7. Until I read this, I thought I might have had a DMPS issue with KDE because I had serious issues trying to keep the screen ON when I was initially running Gnome. Now that I have watched it more closely, I can see that it is staying in that strange powered-up mode all the time. So much for saving any energy by getting rid of the big CRT and Pentium 4 HTPC :rolleyes:

Also, I'm PO'd that the RCA audio output levels are NOT affected by the volume control! Every TV I've ever owned either had its audio outputs post-volume ctrl or gave you a menu choice of pre- or post-.Again, exactly the same experience here. This one is really annoying because I have spent far too much time trying to solve this one. The wife sent my cherished Cerwin Vegas to the garage when we got this set and I have been suffering with the internal speakers until I replace the system with something that is "not so ugly". Another "WTF were they thinking" when they implemented analog input?

The most interesting bug I have found while poking around, though it doesn't really affect me, is that accidentally hitting the . button more than once in a row locks the set up tight. Picture freezes, no sound, no response from the remote, etc. Power cycling with the button on the side always brings it right back up.

My TV shipped today!! Estimated delivery date 10/03. I hate waiting!! :(

Hello All,
A newby here to this fine forum.
I bought a TX-47F430S and plugged it in on 09-05-2007.
It has the Jun 26 2007 build date software.

As noted on the first post of this thread, it too immediately suffers from the lock-up syndrome.
Mine however seems to happen when I am looking at the OSD or when turning on or after watching for several hours and desire to turn it off for the night. The only solution to the lock-up seems to be to pull the plug out of the wall. Since viewing daily since the 5th, I would say the unit has locked-up at least 20 times. I am torn between exchanging it for another and hoping the next one has no issues or exchanging it towards something simular.
Best Buy has none in stock at the nearest 8 stores and will not order one in for exchange unless I buy one. Then when it arrives at the local store, bring mine in, cancel the purchase of the second one so I can turn around and exchange mine for the new one.

Is unplugging the power what is referred to as "reboot" ? I am not an AV efficienado (sic) so am not sure.
My only other issue is with what I would call over redness and washed out blues in the video. But I most likely need to spend time with the adjusments to make them better.
The auto-device detection is nice until you turn it off and then manually have to change inputs to go backwards.

I see it has a service port-(usb), can this be used as a normal usb port via some sort of secret code or is it strictly a service port?

And if it is a service port, when will Westinghouse issue a fix to the lockup issue and the others via this port?

When this unit is consistantly 25% less than it's nearest competitor, I suppose you should expect 25% less?.
Or does it mean the nearest competitor is making 25% more profit?:confused:

USB is strictly a service port for as-yet non-existent updates. God only knows when or if...

More importantly: 20 lockups is not normal at all. :eek: But please, give us some more info:

what sources do you have connected?
what ports are they connected to (component, HDMI???)
what source are you normally watching when it locks up?

some people have reported that certain cable company signals can overflow a buffer in the Westinghouse. As many lockups as you've had, this is worth looking at, so:

do you have cable hooked up?
if so:
how (straight from the wall, through a box, cable card, etc?)
what cable company and where?

also, when you say "looking at the OSD", do you mean the menu, or the Guide, or... ???

Ed

Well, I guess I will be the odd man here because my experience with this TV is top notch.

So far, since I do not have a HDTV box for my Verizon Fios, the only HDTV broadcast content I am watching is the local channels.. but they are INCREDIBLE. Very nice.. My brother has the 37" Vizio (720p) and broadcasts in 720p or 1080i look significantly better than his

I also have 2 PC's connected to this TV from DVI-to-HDMI. This works like a charm. Both boxes run Windows Vista ultimate, and the media center functionality is pretty rock solid. the HDTV content I have on my box is all HD content from shows I like to watch. Sopranos, Dexter, Deadwood, Planet Earth, and some nature shows on PBS. 1080p is ALL it is cracked up to be and MORE for me. The screen is so crystal clear, even with small fonts. The first time I hooked it up, the screen was not calibrated, and the background to my Vista desktop alone was breaktaking. After some tweaking it is even better.

I also us my HTPC to upconvert DVD's. Watching Godfather 2 (an old movie, that never really looked to hot on DVD) while upconverting through either FFDshow or Nvidia's Purevideo, looks nothing short of amazing when compared to running it through my Progressive scan standalone DVD player. Other movies like Desperado or new movies looks even better. The only problem is my main HTPC cannot upconvert because the vid card is a 6600GT and it is struggling. I have to run my dvd's from my gaming computer.

I also play video games from my gaming computer. Played Battlefield 2, NFS Carbon, Oblivion, and Bioshock. All of these games knocked my socks off in 1920x1080.. breathtaking. I have a 8800 GTS 640M version. I do not know why anyone would buy a ~30" Dell monitor that does 2500x1600 (or whatever it is) when they could take the same money and buy this panel. I experience no lag. The cables I have are monoprice 15ft ferrell core DVI-to-HDMI and they work great. Very crisp graphics. Now too bad the PC version of Madden, and NBA Live are not next gen graphics.


Other than the above, that is primarily what I have been using this TV for. I cannot stress how awesome it is to have this thing as a 42" PC monitor. Sitting on my bed with my bluetooth keyboard mouse, browsing, watching shows, etc.etc..

Cons: I really wish this TV had color levels other than the hue. The channel switching with the tuner is pretty slow, but that is to be expected of course. The "guide" portion to tune into the local broadcasts really doesnt work that well. Oh well, my HD DVR is right around the corner. I have not had any lockups, but I have noticed that sometimes it freezes the image. Like if the PC crashes, the screen will stay frozen on your desktop, until the TV detects the signal again after reboot. And obviously, coming from a 36" Sony XBR Tube TV, I miss the great blacks.. but it is certainly not bad enough for me to really notice or care. Everything I have fired up on this thing has been beautiful and jaw dropping, so I don't notice it too much.

If anyone has any questions for me, let me know.

I am with HeXeD.
I have had my 47" since the day they came out. And aside from the very rare freeze/or no sound/corrupt image on power on, everything is fine! (just to be clear - only one of those issues occur once a month, much less then Vista crashes!!)
I am running with HD DVR over component (looks beetter then over HDMI - is that due to the Westy not processing the HDMI signal?), PC over HDMI, Xbox 360 over component.

That is strange. Once I get my Verizon Fios HD-DVR box connected through HDMI, I will let you know what my experience is like.

Cons: I really wish this TV had color levels other than the hue.

Why? Primary color points, color decoder accuracy, and greyscale tracking are all excellent on this tv. There is no need for controls to adjust what is already correct. All you need is a saturation control.

Alright, could someone explain why when I hooked up my surround sound I hooked up the audio cables to the audio out on the tv and only the white or left audio is working. I only get sound to the left front speaker. I just unplugged it from my other tv so it was working.

Well, played a dvd movie from my philips dvd home theater and it puts out the surround sound thru the component but when I still try to use the tv button on the philips player (which uses the audio out from the tv) it only puts out sound to the left front speaker. I swapped the speaker wires to make sure it was not the speakers and the left speaker wire will put out audio to any other speaker channel but that will be the only speaker playing. I am confused, does this tv not put out 5.1 thru the audio out.

My TV is working fine. I have the following setup:

TWC HD DVR -> Yamaha 6060 -> TV via HDMI
Xbox 360 -> TV via VGA
Wii/PS2 -> Yamaha 6060 -> TV via Component

All audio is through the Yamaha, no audio to or from the TV.

The set has never been put in energy saver mode, and has never exhibited any problems at all. No lockups, no visible banding, nothing.

So I was in for a bit of a surprise just now... I checked the tracking number on my TV and it is out for delivery. It only shipped on Monday, from halfway across the country. I am very impressed.

However it sucks in a way, because I was not prepared for it to come so soon. I have a Civic and I don't see the box fitting in the back without a major struggle. I just hope my landlord is home to accept it.

Does anyone else notice blue color banding on their set? It's strange, but I've noticed it when watching many different programs - Blue seems to be the only color affected.

I too have a civic and lets just say I forced my brother to come pick it up with me (BB) in his larger sedan.

According to my personal measurements the screen itself may fit in the trunk..but in the box there is no chance..even with my bros car we had to take it out of the box. After taking it out it fit easily. Just remember to keep the box, and other stuff just in case.

If I do take it out of the box though, how would I get the box home?

Thanks for your reply!
My responses are in bold..................


More importantly: 20 lockups is not normal at all. :eek: But please, give us some more info:

what sources do you have connected?
satelite via s-video (older sd model without component hookups).
and an upconverting LG dvd player via HDMI 1

what source are you normally watching when it locks up?locks up before your watching anything other than the "W" logo!!!
locks up when turning on! touch power button on remote, indicator light comes on then it goes off after about 20 seconds. At that point the remote does nothing and the power button on the side of the TV does nothing. Sometimes it turns on, "W" logo appears then disappears and screen is blank black and then it does the previous description. It does not lock up or loose signal while watching either satelite nor dvd. But after watching satelite all night, it may or may not heed the demand to turn off via the remote or the switch on TV. It also has locked up a couple of times when I have the OSD menu up (the one where u can change all the settings via the remote.)

some people have reported that certain cable company signals can overflow a buffer in the Westinghouse. As many lockups as you've had, this is worth looking at, so:

do you have cable hooked up?
if so:
how (straight from the wall, through a box, cable card, etc?)
what cable company and where?

also, when you say "looking at the OSD", do you mean the menu, or the Guide, or... ???

Ed


I think I am not even using this TV as a TV as I am bypassing the tuner since it is fed via the satelite reciever and the dvd player. And my audio is feed into home theater and does not go in or pass thru the TV anywhere. So it is being used as a monitor, correct?

The unit is being returned to BB this weekend.

If I do take it out of the box though, how would I get the box home?

fold it and it'll fit easily in the backseat

Can anyone send me settings that you use for the 47" TV with gaming (360 xbox, 1080P) Thanks!

fold it and it'll fit easily in the backseat
Actually everything worked out, my roommate was home and she accepted the package for me. Sweet!!

Why? Primary color points, color decoder accuracy, and greyscale tracking are all excellent on this tv. There is no need for controls to adjust what is already correct. All you need is a saturation control.

Well.. I notice that my image needs a "little bit" more yellow. But if I go towards more yellow, it will include more red which I do not need. I tried saturation, and I just can't get the colors correct like my old CRT.

Thanks for your reply!
My responses are in bold..................




I think I am not even using this TV as a TV as I am bypassing the tuner since it is fed via the satelite reciever and the dvd player. And my audio is feed into home theater and does not go in or pass thru the TV anywhere. So it is being used as a monitor, correct?

The unit is being returned to BB this weekend.

Yup, you're using it as a monitor, and of course, the "cable buffer overflow" does not apply. I have to concur with your decision - return it. Second time was the charm for me with my 47". I did not experience 20 lockups, just 2, but the second time I couldn't get it to recover, so back it went. The replacement has been fine - although I am now using it as a monitor as well - Comcast started blocking OTA digital about a month after I got it. Not a huge deal, I have a S3 Tivo, which is dual tuner...but it would be nice if Comcast would be a little more cooperative. Bastards. ;)

Anyway, sorry I don't have any better suggestions for you, but that just sounds like a defective unit to me. There was some speculation that these sets get confused when they don't find a signal on the coax input, but I don't think that's been proven at all.

Ed

Well.. I notice that my image needs a "little bit" more yellow. But if I go towards more yellow, it will include more red which I do not need. I tried saturation, and I just can't get the colors correct like my old CRT.

Well, there are RGB adjustments, but I don't know what combo of that would get you yellow without red...I've never touched them myself.

Ed

Does anyone else notice blue color banding on their set? It's strange, but I've noticed it when watching many different programs - Blue seems to be the only color affected.

I believe you are the first to report it here...can you describe what you are seeing?

Ed

I have the 42 inch TX Westinghouse TV and bought this wall mount from Monoprice - Adjustable Tilting Wall Mount Bracket for LCD Plasma (Max 165Lbs, 37~63inch)

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=2852&seq=1&format=2

It comes with several screw options for connecting the TV to the rails. Options are:

1) M4x30mm
2) M8x25mm
3) M8x40mm
4) M5x30mm
5) M6x30mm

I know that people have said not to use screws that are "too long" and may short out the TV. Anyone have this TV and mount, and if so, which screws did you use from the above? or did you go buy other screws? Did you have to use spacers or washers? if so, the ones included, which ones & how many? or did you buy other ones? if so, what were the sizes and how many?

I am hoping to mount my TV this weekend, so ALL feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Well I got my set hooked up yesterday... how awesome! Games look spectacular, I can't wait to start watching some HD and BD on it. My first impressions are generally positive. I was very happy with the amount of tweaking options that I have... even the ability to turn the front LED on and off is pretty cool. I'm waiting for my HD copy of DVE to come in and I'll get into some calibration.

One interesting thing I noticed though, was that when I first turned the set on, it appeared to be in some kind of service mode. I had to exit and reset the TV to get out of it. I can't remember everything that was in it as I was in a rush to get things set up yesterday. It doesn't appear that I was supposed to see that menu though. Is that common or did I get a special set?

I've also been having problems with my computer and my TV... they are similar, but seperate issues so I'll explain them seperately.

A) I have my PC hooked up to the VGA input on the TV. My video card is configured so that it will normally operate in clone mode, but to display full screen video on the TV when I am watching something in Windows Media Player or Winamp (the full screen video on the TV is independent of what is happening on the PC). I didn't have a problem with my old TV, I would play a video and it would show full screen. With the Westy however, it is playing the video in a 4:3 format, which is especially wierd as the video itself is in a widescreen format. Does anyone know how I can configure this properly, either via my PC or my TV? The video card is an eVGA 7900GTX.

B) I have an option in my satellite STB to scale SD content to 480p and to fit the 16:9 format. On my old TV it worked fine. If I were watching an HD channel, it would be 16:9 or 4:3 with black bars, depending on the content, which was fine. When I switched to an SD channel it would then stretch the picture to full screen. This doesn't seem to be working with the new set, I can't force the receiver to output the image in 16:9 anymore. The aspect button on the remote for my receiver doesn't work either. I can scale the image using the aspect button on the TV, but I would prefer to control it through my receiver, either automagically or manually.

Also, the backlight seems to be quite bright, I am noticing a fair amount of bleed on the sides of the set, that run the full height of the panel. Is this about par for this set? It even seems to be quite bright overall, even if I have the backlight turned down to about 70 or so. Could just need a bit of tweaking as well...

Another thing, I saw that the pictures on the first page showed a PIP option in the menus, mine doesn't have that... any reason?

initially I used extended desktop with my laptop but noticed degraded quality. When I had the laptop directly output through vga to the westy it was much better and sharp..so thats really all I can recommend

I can't really help you with the receiver issue, but personally I'd always rather have the TV control the aspect rather than the source (see issue with certain Wii games regarding stretching to 16:9)

IMO 70 for backlight is very high and most of us would notice same bleeding with this set..apparently some backlight issues can be fixed by opening it up and adjusting screws but I personally wouldn't want to mess with the insides

Yeah, I've briefly considered taking the back off and trying to fix the backlight but yeah... it's kind of an expensive piece of equipment so I may just let it go. But thanks for the reply :)

I have the 42 inch TX Westinghouse TV and bought this wall mount from Monoprice - Adjustable Tilting Wall Mount Bracket for LCD Plasma (Max 165Lbs, 37~63inch)

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=2852&seq=1&format=2

It comes with several screw options for connecting the TV to the rails. Options are:

1) M4x30mm
2) M8x25mm
3) M8x40mm
4) M5x30mm
5) M6x30mm

I know that people have said not to use screws that are "too long" and may short out the TV. Anyone have this TV and mount, and if so, which screws did you use from the above? or did you go buy other screws? Did you have to use spacers or washers? if so, the ones included, which ones & how many? or did you buy other ones? if so, what were the sizes and how many?

I am hoping to mount my TV this weekend, so ALL feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

I am at work but I imagine you want to use the M8's for dia. Easy enough to test which diameter screws in without binding.
As far as the which length to use, I would use a straw or something non-metallic and see how deep you can go into the hole before bottoming out.
You then want to use a screw shorter then that amount.

Is what you guys call "reboot" simply pulling the power cord or something else? If it is locked-up, I guess that must be the reboot as you have no choice cause you have no controls.

oh and another thing...
if anyone of you bought at Best Buy with the last 10% or 12% coupon, check your receipt.

When I bought my Westy on 08-31-2007 they scanned the coupon bar code for the 12% off.
The register took $103.95 off of $1423.99
Then it took two clerks plus the manager to admit that $103.95 was not even 10% let alone 12%.

So after giving them a refresher course in percentages they agreed and sent me to Customer Service so they could give me the other $66.93 manually.

I've had the TX-42 for about 4 months now and the only "problem" is the flickering when switching between resolutions when changing channels, which is not a problem with the television. Oh, and the inevitable explaning to the fiancee' as to why we SHOULD have the setup....:)

The setup is as follows:

Pioneer AV Receiver w/ Yamaha Sub and cheapo satellite speakers
PACE (Rogers) HD Cable STB via HDMI connection; Optical out to receiver
XBOX360 w/ HD-DVD add-on: VGA connection (1080p baby!! :D...Optical out to receiver
Wii via Composite hookup directly to receiver, then output to the Westy

In addition, I've used the Westy as a monitor for my laptop via the VGA connection, both as a primary and secondary monitor.

My Firmware date is April 2007. At first, I had a HDCP handshake problem with the HDMI connection, but this has been corrected by just making sure that the TV is turned on before the cable box.
(Rogers was of NO help in this regard...BTW.)

One thing I wish is that there was an inexpensive AV/Receiver with true HDMI capability that I could have bought. Fairly new products when I was buying the whole setup.

I contacted Westinghouse support regarding the audio issues I've observed and have reported here, regarding the lack of 5.1 DD OTA->S/PDIF passthrough and the lack of HDMI->S/PDIF passthrough. Here is the reply:

From: Westinghouse Digital Support <westinghouse@microdyne.com>

The TV is designed to parse the 5.1 input from OTA broadcasts to 2
channel audio over SPDIF. There is no planned software update to change
this.

The optical output will only work if you're feeding it a digital signal,
make sure that your DirecTV receiver is set to digital audio and not an
analog setting like PCM. Analog audio out has to go through the red and
white audio out jacks.

I did confirm that my HR20 has Dolby Digital turned on; it feeds 5.1 out its own optical port with no issues.

So are they saying if you only have analog cable tv that there is no way to have the tv sound playing any channels out in 5.1? That is crazy cause all I wanted to do was have my tv audio out to my 5.1 dvd home theater to play those channels or shows that do put out surround sound.

So are they saying if you only have analog cable tv that there is no way to have the tv sound playing any channels out in 5.1? That is crazy cause all I wanted to do was have my tv audio out to my 5.1 dvd home theater to play those channels or shows that do put out surround sound.

That's how I read it, and I replied saying as much, asking for a higher-level customer relations contact to express my disappointment to. It's not a dealbreaker for me as I get my locals from DirecTV, but it does mean I can't use the TX as a central A/V switch - I have to run video to the TV, S/PDIF to my receiver, and switch inputs on both.

I do not have a single issue with the West TX42 after about 2.5 months. However, the following happened just the other day. It was not a real problem, just a strange occurance.

I use my TimeWarner Cable remote to control both the cable box and the Westy TX42. I turned off the TV using the cable remote. The sound on the TV went out, the blue LED (below the "W" logo) turned to amber but the TV stayed on. I could change channels but could not get sound. I pressed the TV button on the cable remote again and the sound returned and the blue LED returned. I pressed TV again and everything turned off!

I noticed something interesting last night... I don't know if I should just leave it alone or not.

Being a new owner, I was testing the set out and playing around. I put POTC2 BD in my PS3 and started changing a few settings. I noticed that when I turned the "Force 24hz" option on, the set would display HDMI 1 1080p, but it would also say no signal at the top, however I would still be getting a signal. It didn't seem to do this when the signal was 1080i (it switches back and forth during the previews). If I put the 24hz option back to automatic, the problem goes away. Is there a reason that just happened? Does the Westy support 1080p 24hz?

Well I got my set hooked up yesterday... how awesome! Games look spectacular, I can't wait to start watching some HD and BD on it. My first impressions are generally positive. I was very happy with the amount of tweaking options that I have... even the ability to turn the front LED on and off is pretty cool. I'm waiting for my HD copy of DVE to come in and I'll get into some calibration.

One interesting thing I noticed though, was that when I first turned the set on, it appeared to be in some kind of service mode. I had to exit and reset the TV to get out of it. I can't remember everything that was in it as I was in a rush to get things set up yesterday. It doesn't appear that I was supposed to see that menu though. Is that common or did I get a special set?

I've also been having problems with my computer and my TV... they are similar, but seperate issues so I'll explain them seperately.

A) I have my PC hooked up to the VGA input on the TV. My video card is configured so that it will normally operate in clone mode, but to display full screen video on the TV when I am watching something in Windows Media Player or Winamp (the full screen video on the TV is independent of what is happening on the PC). I didn't have a problem with my old TV, I would play a video and it would show full screen. With the Westy however, it is playing the video in a 4:3 format, which is especially wierd as the video itself is in a widescreen format. Does anyone know how I can configure this properly, either via my PC or my TV? The video card is an eVGA 7900GTX.

B) I have an option in my satellite STB to scale SD content to 480p and to fit the 16:9 format. On my old TV it worked fine. If I were watching an HD channel, it would be 16:9 or 4:3 with black bars, depending on the content, which was fine. When I switched to an SD channel it would then stretch the picture to full screen. This doesn't seem to be working with the new set, I can't force the receiver to output the image in 16:9 anymore. The aspect button on the remote for my receiver doesn't work either. I can scale the image using the aspect button on the TV, but I would prefer to control it through my receiver, either automagically or manually.

Also, the backlight seems to be quite bright, I am noticing a fair amount of bleed on the sides of the set, that run the full height of the panel. Is this about par for this set? It even seems to be quite bright overall, even if I have the backlight turned down to about 70 or so. Could just need a bit of tweaking as well...


A: You need to use "DualView" in your nvidia drivers. I believe this is the default if you do a clean install of the video card drivers, when you goto display properties it will detect the 2nd display and should auto set it to the default resolution. Clone will not work as you need two different resolutions on each monitor.

I will give that a try, thanks!

Alright, could someone explain why when I hooked up my surround sound I hooked up the audio cables to the audio out on the tv and only the white or left audio is working. I only get sound to the left front speaker. I just unplugged it from my other tv so it was working.

Are you having this issue with OTA/cable channels?

I had this issue, but it only occurred on analog cable channels - and then on only some of them. I never did the definitive test, but I think my previous suspicion of firmware problems was incorrect - my latest hypothesis is that the issue is related to signal quality: I think only analog cable channels with flawless signal quality will induce the TV to decode both L and R audio channels successfully.

Another thing, I saw that the pictures on the first page showed a PIP option in the menus, mine doesn't have that... any reason?

IIRC this is because you have the newer (June 26) firmware which removed this from the menus.

I should also mention that I am one of the happy owners. I am currently only using it to view HD content via crappy Comcast, (HD DVR using HDMI-1) but it looks gorgeous. I am not using ESaver (I am scared!) .. but I want to ... will have to see how bad the electric bill changes :)

I'm returning my TX-47 today to BB.

The deal killer for me was the inability to completely disable dynamic contrast. One of my main applications for this monitor was digital photo editing and slideshows, and I was never able to get a stable greyscale response because of this "feature".

[ I'm not sure that I agree that the problem was actually poor DC Restoration. If the problem was really DC restoration then I would expect to see different amounts of contrast shift on a greyscale card test pattern based on whether there was large amounts of true black or white BEFORE the greyscale pattern (in scan-line order) or AFTER the greyscale. Instead, the contrast shift appears to depend entirely on the amount of black or white present on the screen regardless of its spatial distribution.) Also, I wouldn't expect to see DC restoration - an analog problem - be such a issue on a set where every element in the signal chain right up to the LCD pixel drivers is digital.]

I didn't think the angular color shift response was particularly impressive, though I have not looked critically at other units to know if this compared favorably or not. It seemed I needed to stay dead in front of and level with the monitor to get consistent color response.

A secondary issue was the lack of volume control (save for mute) on external audio inputs. I never got over my annoyance at this. Also, its insistence on muting the audio when it lost the video signal (ie, when my computer put the screen to sleep) was another persistent annoyance.

The lack of evidence of any forthcoming firmware upgrades and lack of access to the service menu was also a factor in my decision. Alot of the roughness in the user interface that I'd expect to see smoothed out in future firmware revisions didn't look like it was ever going to be addressed.

On the plus side, I never experienced the lock-up problem, although I always had e-Saver enabled. Likewise I did not experience any banding issues, although the backlighting did not look particularly even to me (noticably brighter at the left and right edges.)

I did not experience any of the HDMI problems that others had (perhaps because I had analog audio running in parallel, not down the HDMI cable), and had no problem driving the HDMI input from a DVI output on my Mac Powerbook G4 using a $5 HDMI cable and $3 DVI->HDMI adapter (Monoprice rocks!)

I had only 2 stuck pixels on my unit that showed up only under extreme scrutiny on a completely black screen. I counted myself relatively lucky on this.

To be honest, the real bottom line for me is that I'm going to be spending alot of the next year outside the country, and I didn't want to watch my warranty period evaporate while the unit is sitting unused. When I return from overseas I expect to see the appearance of a whole new technology generation and at ever-lower price points. So while this has been a great educational experience for me, I'll reap greater benefits from it (and from this forum!) in the future.

Does the Westy support 1080p 24hz?

Apparently yes, though this seems to have come as just as big as surprise to Westinghouse as it did to the people here who discovered the fact. Video only though. I have not personally tried it.

audio_inside:

It could be powersupply related, but that still ties into DC restoration. There are a number of LCD sets that fail this in testing so it's a real problem.

audio_inside:

for me the westy is a jack of all trades tv/monitor:

watch TV/Use as computer monitor/play video games

I do small time photoshop work now and then but if you're doing serious work, I'd think you'd have to consider high end lcd monitors dedicated to that purpose, or go old school CRT. I still believe right now that these lcd hdtv's are just that-excel at being televisions and do good for hd content/movies/video games. It just so happens that it can be used as a monitor too.

Any last minute suggestions for the size of screw to use when mounting the 42" with the Monoprice mount?

Heepajeep suggested the M8's ... anyone have a suggestion for length?

Any last minute suggestions for the size of screw to use when mounting the 42" with the Monoprice mount?

Heepajeep suggested the M8's ... anyone have a suggestion for length?

Hey, yeah I went to the hardware store to find a size that would fit because I could not get any of the screws to work with any of the included washers/spacers. This was several months ago, so I'm trying to remember exactly. I'm pretty sure the length was ~1/2" screws, 4 of them. I thought I documented the exact sizes earlier in the thread, but maybe I didn't. What I did was brought the screws with me that I knew threaded properly and then screwed them into a nut at the hardware store so I knew what kind of threading it was using. I also measured how far the screws screwed in and bottomed out (which was like 1/2" and then based my decision off there). You shouldn't be able to screw it in more than ~1/2"-3/4". I do remember it being a real pain in the butt though. Hope that helps a little!

Wow, what a pain in the ass this dynamic contrast is. I just got thru watching my first full movie on the set (Training Day BD), and there were a number of times where I saw the contrast shift on the horizontal black bars. It was particularly annoying when it was a scene going back and forth from light to dark, or where a shot would be borderline and it would go back and forth. Other than that though, it looked awesome, I couldn't be happier :D

I noticed that when I turned the "Force 24hz" option on, the set would display HDMI 1 1080p, but it would also say no signal at the top, however I would still be getting a signal.
I have the same behavior with my PS3 and I believe others have mentioned it in the thread. I guess it's nice to know that the TV is potentially capable of displaying 24 Hz, but it's unfortunate that it does not seem to work smoothly with the PS3.

What makes it worse is that I am able to readily detect problems in pulldown when watching films on the set, so I know what I am missing. It's better when you don't know what you're looking for! Perhaps a future PS3 firmware update will help, since I'm not holding my breath for a Westy firmware update.

For any Halo 3 owners who play on the 47-TX using VGA I was wondering why it cuts off so much of the screen when playing co-op? I have the xbox360 set to 1080P. My tv shows that it is in this resolution. Is there a way to get it to use the whole screen? Is it because of the VGA cables? It cuts off on the sides and the top and bottom. The two screens are horizontal. Is there a way to make them vertical. Thanks.

For any Halo 3 owners who play on the 47-TX using VGA I was wondering why it cuts off so much of the screen when playing co-op? I have the xbox360 set to 1080P. My tv shows that it is in this resolution. Is there a way to get it to use the whole screen? Is it because of the VGA cables? It cuts off on the sides and the top and bottom. The two screens are horizontal. Is there a way to make them vertical. Thanks.

Are two people playing on the tv in split screen? Thats from halo, not your tv. Playing online co-op has no cut off if only one person is using the screen.

OK, which set would you guys recommend getting, LVM vs. TX, if you had the following hardware and money was not an issue (in terms of these two specific sets):

1. Xbox 360 Elite (has HDMI) + Xbox 360 HD-DVD player.
2. PS3
3. Wii -- worried about overscan and such, looks great on the LVM-42w2 but it fills correctly in 480p when set to widescreen, not sure how the TX stacks up.
4. Laptop

I have an HDMI and Toslink switch so the connectors are a moot point for me. The HDMI switch has 4 HDMI In, 1 HDMI Out, 1 DVI In and 1 DVI Out. The Toslink switch is bidirectional but is used primarily as 1 Toslink Out and 3 Toslink In and is connected to my receiver.

I would be utilizing the set mostly for Games and HD Movies - Blu Ray and HD-DVD. I don't care much about cable at the moment but would use the built in tuner on the TX series.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Later,

Alex

Yea it is when playing split screen. But in Halo 2 it would make the screens go vertical (side by side) instead of horizontal (top and bottom) to fix this problem.

You get bars in split screen in Halo 3 regardless of the cable used (VGA/HDMI/Component/etc..)

I am fairly sure that the problem is that Halo 3 was designed for widescreen TV's while Halo 2 was not. To my knolwedge Bunige wanted to keep the 16:9 aspect ratio for splitscreen, hence the bars on the side.

Personally I hope and think that they will eventually provide the option to fill the screen via an update considering all the updates Halo 2 got over the years.

Maybe you could get rid of the split screen problems by changing the 360's dasboard settings to 4:3 from 16:9.

It will not let me mess with those settings when its set to 1080P. I did find a way to get it to work by changing the resolution down but about 30 minutes into gameplay it started to flicker so I had to change it back. Oh well. I appreciate the help.

I have had a few issues with my TX-42 inch TV. I first had it hooked up to the cable box using component cables (Red,Green, Blue + audio red,white). Periodically, when I would change channels, the picture would go blurry and be not visible. I would have to unplug the TV and then it would work again. Recently I mounted my TV and switched to using an HDMI cord from the cable box to the TV (no additional audio cables used). Now, I am experiencing audio issues fairly frequently (several times a day) ... which requires me to "reboot" the TV to resolve.

I am wondering if anyone has experienced either of these issues with the Westinghouse TX-42 or not and if anyone can make any suggestions on what to do or try? Do you think it could be issues with the cable box, cables or TV?

Thanks in advance.

The 52 inch model is now listed on wde.com. Anyone lucky enough to grab one yet?

I've owned a 37w3 for a year now and absolutely LOVE it as a primary computer display. The images a crisp and the colors are accurate. Maybe I was greedy, but I bought the TX-42F430S from Best Buy thinking it would simply be a bigger version of the 37w3.

I've been SORELY disappointed with my choice. I'm hoping that I just got a dud.

I was using the 37w3 with an nVidia 7600GT card through the DVI port. The TX-42F430S of course only has HDMI, so that's what i used. The colors are HORRIBLY dull and the text is not crisp at all. I made zero modifications to my 37w3 settings other than the backlight and it was very clear.

I've tried adjusting every setting through both the Westy menus and the nVidia control panel and can't get the image sharp and the colors not to be washed out.

Before I exchange it, are my expectations correct, should I expect the TX-42F430S to simply be a bigger/better version of the 37w3?

well after months of looking and deciding, im sticking with one of my original choices and buying the tx47 today

the local BB has a good price on them, very competitive with onliners without hte wait.

pics to come since there arent any really


just under 2 months and still loving this tv!

I've owned a 37w3 for a year now and absolutely LOVE it as a primary computer display. The images a crisp and the colors are accurate. Maybe I was greedy, but I bought the TX-42F430S from Best Buy thinking it would simply be a bigger version of the 37w3.

I've been SORELY disappointed with my choice. I'm hoping that I just got a dud.

I was using the 37w3 with an nVidia 7600GT card through the DVI port. The TX-42F430S of course only has HDMI, so that's what i used. The colors are HORRIBLY dull and the text is not crisp at all. I made zero modifications to my 37w3 settings other than the backlight and it was very clear.

I've tried adjusting every setting through both the Westy menus and the nVidia control panel and can't get the image sharp and the colors not to be washed out.

Before I exchange it, are my expectations correct, should I expect the TX-42F430S to simply be a bigger/better version of the 37w3?

Assuming you've also disabled the color settings from the nvidia itself it shouldn't be washed out assuming you have brightness and contrast set correctly on the monitor itself. I'm using VGA though.

I cant complain much, I went from the 37W1 and other then getting more screen door as the same rez got stretched 10 more inches the colors look fine to me. It does have a few more annoyances though that my 37w1 didn't have.

Assuming you've also disabled the color settings from the nvidia itself it shouldn't be washed out assuming you have brightness and contrast set correctly on the monitor itself. I'm using VGA though.

How do I go about disabling them? I haven't done anything different than I did on my w3.

I've read through this and cannot for the life of me get a feeling of consensus. Do all of you owners recommend this set or not? Or are the problems too great to allow you to recommend it?

In addition to the color issues, the text looks highly pixilated compared to the lvm-37w3. My w3 was very smooth, no noticeable grain.

This is driving me crazy because I REALLY want to like this monitor.

I've read through this and cannot for the life of me get a feeling of consensus. Do all of you owners recommend this set or not? Or are the problems too great to allow you to recommend it?

I've mentioned this probably twice, or some 20 pages ago but if I was to do it again I'd spend the extra 400-600 and go for either the 40" 61 series samsung or 65 series samsung. It depends on your budget really. For some on a 2000 budget, going from 1000 to 1500 is a big deal, for others its not. Unfortunately at the time I bought mine, the samsung was still some 700-900 more so it wasn't even in the picture. Size wise I can't say that I'm disappointed though, that and I haven't used this to its fullest yet and I do not have an Xbox360/ps3/upconverting or BR or HD player.

The clipping of highlights/black levels are what bother me the most about this TV

In addition to the color issues, the text looks highly pixilated compared to the lvm-37w3. My w3 was very smooth, no noticeable grain.

This is driving me crazy because I REALLY want to like this monitor.

Well, I'm using the TX-47, now with an 8600GT, and I don't know what to tell you, other than that what you are seeing doesn't seem to match my experiences. Colors are fine on my display, text is not pixelated or grainy at all, and I've even used it with incredible results with the Xbox 360 HD-DVD drive hooked up to the PC.

Do your nVidia drivers have the TV calibration wizard? Do you have other sources you can hook up (preferably HD)?+ What resolution are you running?

Ed

I've mentioned this probably twice, or some 20 pages ago but if I was to do it again I'd spend the extra 400-600 and go for either the 40" 61 series samsung or 65 series samsung. It depends on your budget really. For some on a 2000 budget, going from 1000 to 1500 is a big deal, for others its not. Unfortunately at the time I bought mine, the samsung was still some 700-900 more so it wasn't even in the picture. Size wise I can't say that I'm disappointed though, that and I haven't used this to its fullest yet and I do not have an Xbox360/ps3/upconverting or BR or HD player.

The clipping of highlights/black levels are what bother me the most about this TV

Well, you also have to remember that the Sammy's were still having MAJOR HDMI issues when the TX series hit the stores. They seem to have it sorted out, though I think there may be a few out there that still need boards/firmware upgrades.

Ed

I have been considering the TX-47F430S for my living room tv, especially because of the price I can get it at. Upon viewing it at both Circuit City and Best Buy though, the image seems alot softer than all other 47" models.
I know that they arent even close to being calibrated correctly, but Im still a little skeptical after seeing it.
Do owners seem particularly happy with their image quality and satisfied as compared to other models($2200 and under in price that is)?

Thanks

Well, you also have to remember that the Sammy's were still having MAJOR HDMI issues when the TX series hit the stores. They seem to have it sorted out, though I think there may be a few out there that still need boards/firmware upgrades.

Ed

You're right..I suppose I should rephrase to say "if I were buying today" lol..as usual prices continue to drop and technology is improving. Also for me, the drawbacks of HDMI < IQ since I don't use any HDMI sources as the moment. Its not that the TX42 is w/o its own HDMI problems either, but at the moment I have nothing to test out the ports with to see if mine is affected.

I've read through this and cannot for the life of me get a feeling of consensus. Do all of you owners recommend this set or not? Or are the problems too great to allow you to recommend it?
I am new to the forum so be gentle and forgiving. I have now owned this TV (47") for 4 weeks and I must say that I am quite pleasantly surprised. I will wholeheartedly recommend this to anyone. Looking at the display in BB, the display did appear a little washed out compared to the others, but I think that was just the BB guys not knowing how to set it up properly. This TV is wonderful, especially with (but not necessarily because of) the price.

I was initially a little skeptical reading various reviews everywhere, and in fact bought the Sceptre 46" at Costco first, but did not like the way it did aspect/screen resizing of SD and ended up returning it. Point being, I have a reference to compare this TV against, the Westinghouse comes out miles ahead in image quality (both HD, and especially SD), color reproduction and also menu/settings.

I have not noticed any dead pixels (not that I have looked for them too closely) nor did I have any problem with the grayscale and black level reproduction.

Overall, I am a very satisfied customer. I can share the setting details that worked the best for me if anyone is interested.

(I am using it with Dish HD-DVR, Sony HT-DDW995 HITB and a Philips 5982 DVD player).

Thanks and hope you find this useful.

I am not able to get closed-captioning working on this TV with HD programming (dish network). Has anyone had success, and if so, what exact setting did you use in the TV (it appears that there are way too many settings and the manual isn't a big help).

Thanks.:confused:

I've read through this and cannot for the life of me get a feeling of consensus. Do all of you owners recommend this set or not? Or are the problems too great to allow you to recommend it?

Not everybody is going to be of the same opinion. I recommend the set. Like the poster above me, I am a relatively new owner, but I have had no problems so far. No lockups and I haven't even had HDMI issues with my PS3. The PQ is awesome. I would go for it.

I have also noticed that when I change channels then quickly back to the other channel the sound does not work until I switch to a different channel then wait and change back. This is confusing. The flickering on channel change is still bothering me. I took it back to best buy due to audio problems and flickering and lines on the screen during dvd movie but when they hooked it up they could not see any of those problems so they gave it back. Anyone else have any of these problems then problems went away?

Hi,
I am going to buy a TV this week. I have already put the TX-47F430S on the top of my list because of some quality reviews I have read here. I have yet to see it in person and I have a few other TV's I want to see. One is the Samsung LN-T4661F. The price is about $150 more for the Samsung (comparing best buy to 123buydirect.com).

I'm still fighting my demons and trying not to buy from an online retailer, because I usually go with extended warranties (from best buy for the Westy). Do you guys notice the blacks not being as black during some of your gaming or movie watching in a dark room for the Westy? CNet has a good review of it but one thing I am worried about is the light black.

Thanks.

Hey yall, I just got this TV last night and so far I'm loving it... but I'll cut to the chase (and I'm sorry if this is redundant but I wasn't sure what to search for)...

When playing Guitar Hero 2 on 360 over component in 1080p the screen jutters (but not when the console is set in 1080i). I read on here that a fix was to do the power reboot. The holding power button for 10 seconds didn't work (I tried it quite a few times and nothing would happen) so I unplugged it/re-plugged it in. The jutter is still there, but now there is a black border around the entire screen. I repeated this un/re-plug again to find the border still there, but now with a bright purple line on the bottom of the screen! I did it a 3rd time to (thankfully) find the the purple line gone, but there is still a black border. I put in Bioshock and the border isn't there... I'm not sure why it would only affect the one game.

Any response about this would be greatly appreciated, even if you just point me in the direction of some previous posts about this I may have missed. :)

Hi,
I am going to buy a TV this week. I have already put the TX-47F430S on the top of my list because of some quality reviews I have read here. I have yet to see it in person and I have a few other TV's I want to see. One is the Samsung LN-T4661F. The price is about $150 more for the Samsung (comparing best buy to 123buydirect.com).

I'm still fighting my demons and trying not to buy from an online retailer, because I usually go with extended warranties (from best buy for the Westy). Do you guys notice the blacks not being as black during some of your gaming or movie watching in a dark room for the Westy? CNet has a good review of it but one thing I am worried about is the light black.

Thanks.

I just got the TX-42 and was a previous owner of the LVM-42w2 (the older Westy). I am happy with this TV and it IS an improvement over the previous set. I got mine from Best Buy too with extended warranty and all that jazz. I find the picture quality in terms of color and black levels to be on par +/- with the LVM-42w2. I think both sets have some room for improvement but I give the edge to the newer TX series. You will be pleasantly surprised when you pick this set up. I have no banding and no dead pixels and can use it for various graphic design projects with no hassle.

Good luck and enjoy your new set!

Later,

Alex

Hey yall, I just got this TV last night and so far I'm loving it... but I'll cut to the chase (and I'm sorry if this is redundant but I wasn't sure what to search for)...

When playing Guitar Hero 2 on 360 over component in 1080p the screen jutters (but not when the console is set in 1080i). I read on here that a fix was to do the power reboot. The holding power button for 10 seconds didn't work (I tried it quite a few times and nothing would happen) so I unplugged it/re-plugged it in. The jutter is still there, but now there is a black border around the entire screen. I repeated this un/re-plug again to find the border still there, but now with a bright purple line on the bottom of the screen! I did it a 3rd time to (thankfully) find the the purple line gone, but there is still a black border. I put in Bioshock and the border isn't there... I'm not sure why it would only affect the one game.

Any response about this would be greatly appreciated, even if you just point me in the direction of some previous posts about this I may have missed. :)

Well, I have some news that might help out. Currently, the 360 only has TWO titles that are full 1080p. Most are 720p/1080i. I would just use 1080i for the time being and wait until there is a firmware upgrade. You REALLY are not going to lose anything with playing in 1080i.

The other options are to go and get a VGA cable for your 360 and use that connector. Or, if you have a Product Replacement Plan, go use it and get one of the new Premium or Elite 360s with the HDMI out.

Later,

Alex

I've read through this and cannot for the life of me get a feeling of consensus. Do all of you owners recommend this set or not? Or are the problems too great to allow you to recommend it?

I think we met in LR, AR @ Circuit City once . . . anyways, I think if you are not wanting to spend a heap of cash, I would buy the TX series. Between my buddies and I we have FOUR of these sets! Great for gaming, movies, and your laptop/pc.

You will not regret!!!

Later,

Alex

Does anyone know how to remove the stand on these LCDs so they can be wall mounted? There are screws on the bottom of the stand, but I'd rather know for sure before I started randomly unscrewing them.

Thanks!

Hey yall, I just got this TV last night and so far I'm loving it... but I'll cut to the chase (and I'm sorry if this is redundant but I wasn't sure what to search for)...

When playing Guitar Hero 2 on 360 over component in 1080p the screen jutters (but not when the console is set in 1080i). I read on here that a fix was to do the power reboot. The holding power button for 10 seconds didn't work (I tried it quite a few times and nothing would happen) so I unplugged it/re-plugged it in. The jutter is still there, but now there is a black border around the entire screen. I repeated this un/re-plug again to find the border still there, but now with a bright purple line on the bottom of the screen! I did it a 3rd time to (thankfully) find the the purple line gone, but there is still a black border. I put in Bioshock and the border isn't there... I'm not sure why it would only affect the one game.

Any response about this would be greatly appreciated, even if you just point me in the direction of some previous posts about this I may have missed. :)

Set the TV to energy saver and shut the tv off and turn on. It'll fix the judder.

As far as the borders, thats an issue with GH2, not the tv

Has anyone found a good remote to go with this tv that will allow all functions to work. I hate the one that came with it.

Does anyone use the dvr dct6400 with the 47tx? My cable service provider is mediacom. I have been trying to program the dvr remote to work with the tv but can't get it to work. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Does anyone know how to remove the stand on these LCDs so they can be wall mounted? There are screws on the bottom of the stand, but I'd rather know for sure before I started randomly unscrewing them.

Thanks!

I don't know for sure but I did see the schematic on how to do it in the owner's manual, I think you can download it from the Westinghouse site or from the address link in the first post of this gargantuan thread.

Good Luck,

Alex

Does anyone know how to remove the stand on these LCDs so they can be wall mounted? There are screws on the bottom of the stand, but I'd rather know for sure before I started randomly unscrewing them.

Thanks!

There are I believe 4 screws on the back of the tv, do not unscrew the 4 from the bottom of the stand because that does nothing. there should be 2 screws on either side of the spine on the back of the tv, unscrew those and the stand just slides out of the tv.

Best Buy has these this week for $989.00 How can you go wrong at that price?? I've been looking for a HDTV for my older parents, and cost IS a factor. They will be using this solely as a tv. No PC or video viewing via any hdmi or what have you. Anyway, from what I'm hearing/reading, is that this is a pretty good TV, and most of the issues people are having are with external connections via hdmi and other devices. My question is also, being for an older couple, is it overly complex to use and setup? I will most likely do the setup. But in daily use, are things like the remote, relatively straight forward, or overly cluttered and confusing?

Thanks.

for cost you definitely can't go wrong, as far as setup goes, after you do the autoscan for over the air and cable it should be really easy to use. I found the controller to be very easy to use, much easier to just pickup and use than my mom's samsung lcd.

Does anyone use the dvr dct6400 with the 47tx? My cable service provider is mediacom. I have been trying to program the dvr remote to work with the tv but can't get it to work. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Yes! And no, I didn't have any luck getting the "universal" remote to operate the TV. Damn you motorola cable box!

I think I'll just buy a low end harmony remote and be done with it.

I currently own the Westinghouse LVM-37w3 Model and have had it since September of 2006 and I am pretty happy with it. Great picture for a great price. Anyways, I am interested in getting a bigger monitor now and considering the TX-47F43OS is the same price I paid for the 37", I feel this is a good step-up. Now I will us this TV for movies and gaming only. I will have my Xbox 360 hooked up via VGA (1080p) and my Toshiba HD-A2 (720p) hooked up via HDMI. I will not use the speakers/ audio capabilities on this TV because I use a receiver. I am curious (after looking through all of these posts) if anyone here has a similar setup and am curious if it’s worth the upgrade? I love the 37w3 but it cant handle 1080i without ghosting and I want to watch my HD-DVD's in their full glory (on the A2 that is!). So basically I just want to know how does this monitor handle 1080i via HDMI and 1080p via VGA and whether using it only for Movies and gaming is sufficient enough to avoiding all these other problems people are having with it. Thanks a lot!

I'm waiting for the release of the Westinghouse 52" LCD monitor.

Anyone has more info on release date and prices?

Thanks.

Can anybody tell me whether or not this set supports deep color? I am looking for a new HD DVD player and this may be one of the deciding factors. I'm considering both the A30 and the A35, will probably go A30 if it won't do deep color.

I'm waiting for the release of the Westinghouse 52" LCD monitor.

Anyone has more info on release date and prices?

Thanks.

Looks like JR has it for MSRP $2499. Here is the link:
http://www.jr.com/JRSectionView.process?N=27492+402266

113 Pages! Yikes! I have been reading this thread and it's wonderful. Obviously this is my first post on this website, but I am astounded at the time some of the contributors have given to this thread.

I recently ordered the TX-42. I plan on using it for standard definition (Digital Cable box) and regular DVD and 1080i upconverting. I can not afford an HD cable box/HDDVD player yet. Do you guys think I will have any problems hooking it up to my somewhat aging PC (x800xt video card) for some tasty 1920 resolution World of Warcraft fun?

Any thing else I should look forward to for when this TV shows up?

Thanks again for an A+ thread and I will keep reading it. (only on like page 20 :)

I just picked up the 42" from bestbuy. I believe the manufacturing date was Sept 2007. I am running comcast analog cable and picking up some local hidef stations. I am notice buzzing when i use the internal or external speakers. There is no buzzing on mute. I also notice buzzing when i switch channels in mute. Has anyone else experienced this buzzing or did I get a bad unit?

thanks in advance.

I just picked up the 42" from bestbuy. I believe the manufacturing date was Sept 2007. I am running comcast analog cable and picking up some local hidef stations. I am notice buzzing when i use the internal or external speakers. There is no buzzing on mute. I also notice buzzing when i switch channels in mute. Has anyone else experienced this buzzing or did I get a bad unit?

thanks in advance.

If thats a true manf. date its one not seen here before, Whats the firmware version on it? Maybe you have some new issue from the new build.

Can anybody tell me whether or not this set supports deep color? I am looking for a new HD DVD player and this may be one of the deciding factors. I'm considering both the A30 and the A35, will probably go A30 if it won't do deep color.

No deep color.

If you really want deep color to show up, you'll need a tv with a 10 bit panel and HDMI 1.3. I think the new samsungs and JVC hdtvs may have this, but you're going to pay over twice as much for it.

This tv does put out a great picture, but the black levels are its main flaw.

I just picked up the 42" from bestbuy. I believe the manufacturing date was Sept 2007. I am running comcast analog cable and picking up some local hidef stations. I am notice buzzing when i use the internal or external speakers. There is no buzzing on mute. I also notice buzzing when i switch channels in mute. Has anyone else experienced this buzzing or did I get a bad unit?

thanks in advance.

Check the firmware version, there may be some issues of this tv that were fixed in your model, or some new ones could have been introduced.

Also check black levels, it'd be huge if they improved.

I currently own the Westinghouse LVM-37w3 Model and have had it since September of 2006 and I am pretty happy with it. Great picture for a great price. Anyways, I am interested in getting a bigger monitor now and considering the TX-47F43OS is the same price I paid for the 37", I feel this is a good step-up. Now I will us this TV for movies and gaming only. I will have my Xbox 360 hooked up via VGA (1080p) and my Toshiba HD-A2 (720p) hooked up via HDMI. I will not use the speakers/ audio capabilities on this TV because I use a receiver. I am curious (after looking through all of these posts) if anyone here has a similar setup and am curious if it’s worth the upgrade? I love the 37w3 but it cant handle 1080i without ghosting and I want to watch my HD-DVD's in their full glory (on the A2 that is!). So basically I just want to know how does this monitor handle 1080i via HDMI and 1080p via VGA and whether using it only for Movies and gaming is sufficient enough to avoiding all these other problems people are having with it. Thanks a lot!

I had tons of issues with my LVM-42w2 so I exchanged it for one of these sets. I have a 360 Elite with HD-DVD drive, Wii, and PS3 hooked up to this new set and I like it MUCH better than my LVM-42w2. At the current Best Buy price and no interest financing, this is really a no brainer.

I hope you enjoy your new set!

Alex

I own a TX-42F430S for about three months now and was wondering if anyone else has noticed/experienced any clicking or switching type noises coming from inside the TV (not the speakers) everytime they turn on & off the TV for about the first minute or two.
I dont recall this when I first purchased my TV but it makes a series of six of seven clicking noises at about 10-20 second intervals for about the first minute or two after turning it on or off.
These sounds seem to come from the left middle side of the panel as you face the back. I have the normal power mode selected, not essaver.
One other scenario i hear a single clicking (same) sound about ten seconds after I change from the s-video input (satellite source) over to TV input (Antenna source).

Any help or feedback would be appreciated becuase i am debating trying to get Westy or Best Buy to agree to give me new replacement unit and see if that unit does the same behavior.

Thx, Steve

Looks like JR has it for MSRP $2499. Here is the link:
http://www.jr.com/JRSectionView.process?N=27492+402266
Thanks, I see crutchfield.com (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GIHbCSC97Uc/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=647TX52480) also carries it for the same price because of the free shipping. I wonder when will other retailers start carrying it, particularly non online stores so I can see the picture quality in person.

I get a couple clicking noises but nothing excessive...in both turning on and off

If thats a true manf. date its one not seen here before, Whats the firmware version on it? Maybe you have some new issue from the new build.

I also just bought my TX 42 this past Sunday at Best Buy (great price). The set up menu shows a date of 9/3/2007 and the version is 5112_1.1.0
Sorry but I can't help with the sound from the speakers as I'm using a Home Theater setup & can't get the HDMI connection to work. I originally hooked up via HDMI 1 with my SA 8300HD DVR on Sunday with no problems. Come Monday night the HDMI connection was not being recognized by the TV. The 8300HD would not change channels with the HDMI cable plugged in so I changed over to Component cables.

Very weird

April 13th firmware = 5110_1.1.0
June 26th = 5112_1.3.0
Sept. 3rd = 5112.1.1.0

Discovered something very interesting about normal power mode the other day. It seems that the screen doesn't turn off. The backlight and speakers do, obviously, but he screen itself continues to display a picture. I suppose this would explain the power use and instant-on. Now this brings the question, does leaving the LCD panel itself always on (not backlight or anything) leave you open for problems? Hmm...

Here's a picture, sorry about the blurriness. Taken in the dark with flash. If you can't tell its the "Reply to Thread" screen.
http://www.psychoholiday.com/uploader/files/27/tx42off.jpg

Discovered something very interesting about normal power mode the other day. It seems that the screen doesn't turn off. The backlight and speakers do, obviously, but he screen itself continues to display a picture. I suppose this would explain the power use and instant-on. Now this brings the question, does leaving the LCD panel itself always on (not backlight or anything) leave you open for problems? Hmm...

Here's a picture, sorry about the blurriness. Taken in the dark with flash. If you can't tell its the "Reply to Thread" screen.
http://www.psychoholiday.com/uploader/files/27/tx42off.jpg

Use E. Saver mode to "completely" shut the screen off. Still uses 1w of power though, but better than a constant 40w.

I've been running on E. Saver for months now, no probs here.

One additional annoyance I discovered today...

I replaced my old DVD player with an upsampling unit with an HDMI out. As my DirecTV box is on HDMI 1, I connected the player to HDMI 2.

The problem is that while each other input on the remote has its own selector button, there's only one HDMI button that cycles through each HDMI input. This adds complexity, but more importantly, makes it impossible to accurately select the video source on my Harmony remote when I press an activity button.

So let me translate this into a feature request: if you can't make a new remote with separate HDMI-1 to 4 buttons, at least add IR signal codes to select HDMI 2 through 4 (and make sure Logitech gets them) so that we can select those directly from a universal remote.

Replying to my post, I tried to activate Autosource to get around this issue, but for whatever reason it never notices the HR20 turning on (which it really never really does, it just toggles the A/V signal outputs when you hit Power). Anyone else notice this? It does detect the DVD player powering up on HDMI 2 and changes input appropriately.

I recall someone coming up with a method that worked for selecting HDMI inputs accurately with a Harmony earlier in this thread. I would search the thread for Harmony in the thread and you'll probably find it but I think it was something along the lines of sending a "TV" command then pressing HDMI the appropriate times for that input to show up.

So if you wanted to select HDMI 3 you would send the following command using the Harmony (TV, HDMI, HDMI, HDMI). I could be way off but I thought it was something like that.

Does anyone use the dvr dct6400 with the 47tx? My cable service provider is mediacom. I have been trying to program the dvr remote to work with the tv but can't get it to work. Any help would be great. Thanks.I think I used one of the Sony codes to get my universal remote to work with my TX-47.

Discovered something very interesting about normal power mode the other day. It seems that the screen doesn't turn off.Others have noticed the same thing. It's very odd, but it sure does explain the 40 W draw and the "instant-on". :-/

Hello friends!

Im the new owner of a TX-42F430S thanks to a recent deal at BestBuy.

My initial out of the box experience is not very good.

- 480i @ analog cable = poor SD quality, (expected from a value panel and poor SD source) washed out colors and some red push.
- 480i @ digital cable = same as analog
-1080p @ component Xbox360 = very good, no blur, fast response, great colors
- 1080p @ HTPC nVidia 7900GT DVI-HDMI - GAMING - very good also no lag. Huge screen!

- 720p downloaded video material compressed ( 40min @ 1.1GB ) from the HTPC look very good.
( upscaled by HTPC to 1080p via DVI-HDMI)
- 480p downloaded video material compressed ( 40min @ 350Mb ) not so good :(
( upscaled by HTPC to 1080p via DVI-HDMI)

- DVD Upscale @ 1080p using HTPC 7900GT video card, SUCK BIG TIME!! lots of jaggies, pixelated, i dont know why. I hate this!!! I downloaded the demo of PureVideo, no changes. When looking at Test and Analisis of upscale setups like in www.firingsquad.com in there the PureVideo Upscalling looks very nice. I dont know what im missing, updated drivers. Using DVI. I will do a search on this.

- 1080p @ HTPC nVidia 7900GT DVI-HDMI - WebSurfing, Office, Programming, Edit = Not very happy with the panel pixel layout. Make the square things not look good, make thin lines look weird.
instead of inline pixels ---------------------
look like -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

i dont know how to explain it, looks weird and i dont like it.
You can notice this only using it as a PC monitor i guess. Or with sharp 1080p sources from PS3 maybe.

In the end i guess Im spoiled by hi-end CRT displays, and small hi-end PC LCD monitor panels. :(

I guess i will switch next year to a plasma or Hi-End LCD from samsung.


You get what you paid for.. sub 1k for me. =D
Will post more information and some pictures this weekend.
Im also getting the DVE calibration DVD to try to make things a little better..
Best Regards!!

Saludos!!

Hoping for a little help from the community of owners here. I picked the 42" version of this Westy this weekend from BB and it is my first HDTV of any sorts.

I keep hearing how great the picture quality is on these units but mine has tons of green noise in the blacks/darks and tons of red noise in the whites and blues. I notice it especially when a gradient is involved. The noise occurs regardless of source, I've tested it using a laptop via D-Sub and DVD, HD Cable, and 480i cable via Component.

So is this normal for HDTVs or do I have a bunk unit?

Hoping for a little help from the community of owners here. I picked the 42" version of this Westy this weekend from BB and it is my first HDTV of any sorts.

I keep hearing how great the picture quality is on these units but mine has tons of green noise in the blacks/darks and tons of red noise in the whites and blues. I notice it especially when a gradient is involved. The noise occurs regardless of source, I've tested it using a laptop via D-Sub and DVD, HD Cable, and 480i cable via Component.

So is this normal for HDTVs or do I have a bunk unit?

Would you be able to provide some pictures? Being a new member you can't actually link anything or attach pictures but you could upload some pictures to photobucket and tell us where they are and we could take a look. From your description something doesn't sound right. When you say noise are you saying that in black areas of the picture you see sections or blocks of green or is it like speckles of green?

Also new westy TX-42F430s purchaser thanks to BB sale. I have an interesting problem. PS3 to TV using HDMI cable then from TV optical to Receiver (Kenwood VR-507) I get no sound.

Westy gets sound to receiver from every input except the PS3 HDMI (I should say I've only used the component audio/video inputs and the tv (OTA) and they work fine) . I can hear sound from the PS3, through a pair of computer speakers I have connected to the audio out and the internal speaker, but nothing from the kenwood. This an HDMI copy protection issue? Is my receiver too old to handle the rich HDMI to optical signal?

Any help would be appreciated.

Why not go PS3 optical to receiver optical? Am I missing something here?

Why not go PS3 optical to receiver optical? Am I missing something here?

There are a lot of sound options. I could go optical to receiver, but why should I? I have only two optical ins on the receiver and one is being used. So I have a choice of either westy or ps3. But I should not have to choose.

HDMI to Westy Optical Out to Kenwood Optical In should work. The answer appears to be the receiver, but that doesn't seem right since it is capable of DD5.1.

There are a lot of sound options. I could go optical to receiver, but why should I? I have only two optical ins on the receiver and one is being used. So I have a choice of either westy or ps3. But I should not have to choose.

HDMI to Westy Optical Out to Kenwood Optical In should work. The answer appears to be the receiver, but that doesn't seem right since it is capable of DD5.1.

Supposedly this an HDMI compliance on Westinghouse's part to not pass through encrypted digital sound. My gut tells me that the Westinghouse engineers didn't know exactly what they were doing when they enabled this "feature." Regardless, earlier in the thread people have used this setup successfully by setting the sound options on the PS3 using a "PCM" output setting. I don't have a PS3, so I don't know exactly where this is.

In my opinion the optical audio port on this TV is lame. It can't be used for 5.1 output of HD channels using the internal tuner, it can hardly be used as a digital hub (like you're trying to use it) which I think would have been a great feature (that other TVs do with no problem).

Westinghouse's answer is that the optical output on this TV is designed to pass 2 channel sound to a receiver. This is stupid. They might as well not have any audio out ports on the TV.

Would you be able to provide some pictures? Being a new member you can't actually link anything or attach pictures but you could upload some pictures to photobucket and tell us where they are and we could take a look. From your description something doesn't sound right. When you say noise are you saying that in black areas of the picture you see sections or blocks of green or is it like speckles of green?
Flabioh - thanks for the help. I have posted a few detailed photos at:
http://www.ridethepig.com/corey/westy.htm

Thanks again.

Supposedly this an HDMI compliance on Westinghouse's part to not pass through encrypted digital sound. My gut tells me that the Westinghouse engineers didn't know exactly what they were doing when they enabled this "feature." Regardless, earlier in the thread people have used this setup successfully by setting the sound options on the PS3 using a "PCM" output setting. I don't have a PS3, so I don't know exactly where this is.

In my opinion the optical audio port on this TV is lame. It can't be used for 5.1 output of HD channels using the internal tuner, it can hardly be used as a digital hub (like you're trying to use it) which I think would have been a great feature (that other TVs do with no problem).

Westinghouse's answer is that the optical output on this TV is designed to pass 2 channel sound to a receiver. This is stupid. They might as well not have any audio out ports on the TV.

I actually, after doing a more extensive search of the over 104 pages, found that a few others had this problem and it is related to the firmware build: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11413331#post11413331

Apparently at one time this setup worked. My tv has a build of 1.10 Sept 3 07 . Does anyone know for sure which build the hdmi to optical (spdf) worked?

I actually, after doing a more extensive search of the over 104 pages, found that a few others had this problem and it is related to the firmware build: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11413331#post11413331

Apparently at one time this setup worked. My tv has a build of 1.10 Sept 3 07 . Does anyone know for sure which build the hdmi to optical (spdf) worked?

The April build works. You need to set your PS3 sound via HDMI to MANUAL, and add check boxes to DD and DTS or else it wont work.

Same thing with a cable box. HDMI Passthrough must be enabled or it wont work. This is on TVs built in April, the feature was most likely removed in later builds.

I think this is very telling:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11859787#post11859787

Wonder if Westy gets enough complaints they will fix this cause it appears as if the HDMI to Optical sound was intentionally "broken".

Anyone miss the PIP function? I just noticed that it doesn't work even tho there's a button for it.

These tvs are cheap (in price). Anyone think they're cutting corners to keep the price down?

I was wondering if anyone can help me with my audio issue. I have a home theater in a box(htib) by rca and it only has hdmi, component, audio in, coaxial, but no spdif. I want to play the audio from my analog cable stations(no set top box, just hooks straight to tv) through my htib. When I use the audio L & R out on my tv it only gives me audio to the front left speaker. How would I hook this setup up to give me surround sound for the channels that supply it? Will I have to buy some kind of adapter or can I get a set top box from cable company and run some sort of connection thru the htib? I get surround sound for the dvds but obviously the audio out on the tv is only two channel and that only plays to the front L speaker on mine.:mad:

I was wondering if anyone can help me with my audio issue. I have a home theater in a box(htib) by rca and it only has hdmi, component, audio in, coaxial, but no spdif. I want to play the audio from my analog cable stations(no set top box, just hooks straight to tv) through my htib. When I use the audio L & R out on my tv it only gives me audio to the front left speaker. How would I hook this setup up to give me surround sound for the channels that supply it? Will I have to buy some kind of adapter or can I get a set top box from cable company and run some sort of connection thru the htib? I get surround sound for the dvds but obviously the audio out on the tv is only two channel and that only plays to the front L speaker on mine.:mad:
Coaxial audio and SPIDIF are one in the same. You can connect the SPIDIF out of the Westinghouse to your HTIB's Coaxial IN.

Hoping for a little help from the community of owners here. I picked the 42" version of this Westy this weekend from BB and it is my first HDTV of any sorts.

I keep hearing how great the picture quality is on these units but mine has tons of green noise in the blacks/darks and tons of red noise in the whites and blues. I notice it especially when a gradient is involved. The noise occurs regardless of source, I've tested it using a laptop via D-Sub and DVD, HD Cable, and 480i cable via Component.

So is this normal for HDTVs or do I have a bunk unit?

From looking at your pictures, there is definitely something wrong. I have never noticed anything even remotely nasty looking as that. What specifically is the source of that video? Is that from the comp, or tv? If you were to set your computer to do a clone mode, does the nastyness appear on both screens? (I know you won't be able to get 1080p on both screens, but it shouldn't make THAT big of a difference) If the computer monitor looks fine, but the Westy looks like that garbage, then I would return this thing. it almost looks like when I get a crappy AVI from the internet, or one that has not fully downloaded, and shows major corruption.

I can say, even right out of the box (not calibrated at all) this TV was first hooked up to my pc. I immediatly started watching HDTV AVI's of Deadwood and it looked STUNNING. And my desktop looks identical to my LCD monitor (except it's friggin 42 inches!!)

Seriously.. I have stopped using my pc monitor and I typically do all my browsing, and gaming from my bed. It's about 10 feet away and looks incredible.

Thanx, Hexed. The nastiness appears regardless of source, tried D-Sub and Component so far. When using the laptop, nasties only appear on the Westy. You've confirmed my suspicions and that is that I'll be making a drive back to Best Buy this weekend. Thanx again.

Thanx, Hexed. The nastiness appears regardless of source, tried D-Sub and Component so far. When using the laptop, nasties only appear on the Westy. You've confirmed my suspicions and that is that I'll be making a drive back to Best Buy this weekend. Thanx again.

Yeah, definitely a good idea to take it back because that does look like crap.

that noise happened to me once watching some very dark movie on UPN (digital OTA) the first few days I had it. Hasn't come back since, though like another poster has mentioned I notice more clicking on turn on and off than initially.

Flabioh - thanks for the help. I have posted a few detailed photos at:
http://www.ridethepig.com/corey/westy.htm

Thanks again.

It is hard to tell for sure from your pictures, but it appears this is the same extreme white clipping (pretty sure that is what it's called) that my TV does once in a while.

Basically instead of displaying shades of grey (white) on the white side of the spectrum it makes a number of shades the same shade of white. This affects all colors and is most visible in pictures with light colors. Instead of a gradual change from darker to lighter you basically get a cutoff line and an abrupt change in shade of that color.

My TV seems to actually go back to normal after a few days of being like that. It didn't manifest itself until a couple of months after I've bought the TV. I've called BB and they scheduled a technician to come look at it, by the night before the appointment day the TV went to normal, so I had to cancel the visit. Since then it has gone to similar extreme like yours once or twice and then went back after a few days. Currently it is in broken state again, but a much milder version of it - basically only visible on skin tones (faces, bodies, etc.). I can live with that for now, until 52" comes out. Then, if the price is reasonable, and 52" works better I'd like to try to switch to that (pay the difference in price and exchange). If 52" is still as ridiculously priced as it is now, when it hits BB, then I will just exchange for another 47" (I can't imagine there will be any issue with BB regarding them declaring it broken, even if it is "lightly" broken as mine is currently).

In any case, an easy way to try to further diagnose the issue is to put up a greyscale gradient on the screen. http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/1080p_tests has been linked on these forums before and has some images to try to use through your computer (if you have it hooked up, otherwise try AVIA or something along those lines).

Definitely exchange it. I've been following this thread closely and it seems that this issue (if that is what you have) is very very rare, so chances are your new TV will not have it.


PS I am guessing it is likely that there is something that triggers that switch inside the TV (for Example: manual input switch, turning off/on when the menu is on, etc.). If there is, I cannot put my finger on it.

Coaxial audio and SPIDIF are one in the same. You can connect the SPIDIF out of the Westinghouse to your HTIB's Coaxial IN.


So what would be the best way to hook this up since the spdif connector on the tv is different than the coax on the htib? Is there an adapter or will I have to find a cable that has both plugs on either end.

So what would be the best way to hook this up since the spdif connector on the tv is different than the coax on the htib? Is there an adapter or will I have to find a cable that has both plugs on either end.

If you want to connect from the optical out of the TV to the Coax input on your HTIB you'll have to use something like this: http://www.worldofcables.com/store/viewItem.asp?idproduct=4558

White noise line at top border for some stations. "Fill" clears it, but I just left it on Standard to avoid overall edge cutoffs.



OK so I've read that this is a problem with the signal, not the TV, and that it's some kind of scrambled closed caption. OK fine. I don't care, cuz I'm avoiding SD channels in general.

However this has become a matter of contention with my wife, as it is driving her crazy! And we all know who the boss is!

I have a TivoHD with Comcast service. The only option I've come up with is to switch the Westy to Fill. Which makes her happy, but then I lose out on the 1x1 pixel mapping, and it annoys me that everything looks big, which brings up the other problem - now I need to use the Westy remote just to change to Fill. Ugh.. The Tivo aspect ratios don't fix/hide it. Not happy with this solution.

My plea to the forum - Do I have any other options?

OK so I've read that this is a problem with the signal, not the TV, and that it's some kind of scrambled closed caption. OK fine. I don't care, cuz I'm avoiding SD channels in general.

However this has become a matter of contention with my wife, as it is driving her crazy! And we all know who the boss is!

I have a TivoHD with Comcast service. The only option I've come up with is to switch the Westy to Fill. Which makes her happy, but then I lose out on the 1x1 pixel mapping, and it annoys me that everything looks big, which brings up the other problem - now I need to use the Westy remote just to change to Fill. Ugh.. The Tivo aspect ratios don't fix/hide it. Not happy with this solution.

My plea to the forum - Do I have any other options?

In order of likelihood:

1 - Get a TV that doesn't do true 1 to 1 pixel mapping

2 - You could use use a black sharpie and take out the top few lines of pixels at the top.

3 - Get a new wife

4 - Get Westinghouse to release a firmware to the public that has a more slight overscanning option.

In all seriousness, you are solving the "problem" the right way with using the overscan option. It would be nice if there were more of a gradual overscan option, but there really isn't. The only other solution I can think would be to use a computer with an HDtuner and you could control the overscan of the Video card much more gradually but that opens up a whole bunch of other issues.

In order of likelihood:

1 - Get a TV that doesn't do true 1 to 1 pixel mapping

2 - You could use use a black sharpie and take out the top few lines of pixels at the top.

3 - Get a new wife

4 - Get Westinghouse to release a firmware to the public that has a more slight overscanning option.


LOL. Thanks flabioh. I actually considered a little electrical tape across the top :) ... I'll have to check on #3... I heard there's a new model coming out... younger, faster & cheaper :D

I love the fact that you put #3 before #4. Or rather I don't! I guess we are pretty much giving up on Westinghouse to make a firmware upgrade available huh? Damn ... I had so much hope a few months ago.

Thanks again!

I've had my 47TX since June, and all four of my HDMI ports will black out when watching movies, but the sound keeps going. Sometimes for a fraction of a second to irritate me, and once recently it completely lost itself video signal and told me it wasn't receiving a signal and I had to jump around on the inputs to get my picture back. It's all at completely random times, when I have to back up a bit to see what I missed it wouldn't act up in the same spot.

At first I thought it was just a disc scratch or something, but it happens on new media as well. Sometimes it happens a rediculous number of times during a 2 hour disc, sometimes just once or so. I watch BD on PS3, HDDVD on 360, and a standalone 1080i upscale player for SD DVDs, and they all have this random issue. I of course keep all my firmwares updated. I'm kind of at a loss. This is just completely killing my movie experience, and trying to show off HD material is embarrassing at times when it happens.

This set was a product replacement of the previous generation 42" 1080p Westy. I technically could ask for an exchange I suppose on the remaining year left on my store warranty, but it took 2 months of pure BS before Rex swapped out my set after I started the process with them. I don't have the patience to screw around with them a second time as long as I can still play my games on it.

Is this something Westy needs to look into, or is my TVs HDMI chip just fussy that I don't use high-end players? I have most of my settings on the TV based on popular consensus from this forum, but this flickering is just beyond annoying to the point of aggravation in even bothering to own movies.

Simply because of the sparklies issue with my old 42" and "It's not our fault" attitude with every rep I spoke with, I lost faith in Westinghouse. At first I was really impressed with my new 47TX, but now that I've shifted more of my time to watching movies and enjoying HD formats, this TV is really irritating me and feels like I should've bit the bullet and went with another brand altogether.

Is there any hope for my problem? Is there a known fix I may have overlooked? HDTV has just been an absolute headache for me thus far. Coincidently, both sets have been from this company, mostly due to cost and good PQ. I had a feeling when I bought the 42 I'd kick myself later for not buying a brand I'm familiar with (and off topic a bit, wish I'd bought from a store with a friendlier return/exchange policy).

yay for another saturday morning where it almost didn't start up again (w/ esaver of course) the usual 30 seconds didn't do it, but after 5mins it came on by itself

sigh westinghouse

So I was about to ask if it is confirmed if the E.saver is the problem with lock up or if it might of just been the tuner but I read the last post and guess E.Saver is a problem. This really sucks because before I got the tv my electric bill was only $80 a month and now for the last two months it's been $115 a month. We did not use the air conditioning any more than usual. That's $35 dollars a month in electricity. Thats like making payments on a tv I paid cash for. Any additional comments on the E.Saver subject would be great. Thanks.

So I was about to ask if it is confirmed if the E.saver is the problem with lock up or if it might of just been the tuner but I read the last post and guess E.Saver is a problem. This really sucks because before I got the tv my electric bill was only $80 a month and now for the last two months it's been $115 a month. We did not use the air conditioning any more than usual. That's $35 dollars a month in electricity. Thats like making payments on a tv I paid cash for. Any additional comments on the E.Saver subject would be great. Thanks.
Assuming $0.11 per kilowatt hour (my rate here in Virginia) and working backwards, the extra $35/month attributed solely to your TV means it would use a whopping 442 watts of power. That seems a quite large to me. I believe it was reported earlier in this thread that the TV consumes 40 watts when turned off without E.Saver activated (40 watts x 1000 kw/watt x 24 hr/day x 30 day/month x $0.11/kwh = about $3.20/month).

I just got our TX-42F430S last weekend during the Best Buy sale paired with a statewide tax free weekend. $989 to the penny... not bad.

We're quite happy with it, especially for the money. I've wall mounted it and put my AppleTV on via HDMI, set up the aerial on the roof for OTA, and hooked in the Wii and my progressive DVD player via component inputs. Throw in a Harmony remote and we're in good shape.

I had a couple of quick questions, though, and wondered if anyone could comment.

Page 13 of the manual (also in the online PDFs) makes reference to the EPG displaying "power use" and "signal quality". Frankly, I find the EPG to be near worthless since it only shows the channel to which I'm tuned. But I would love to see the "signal quality" since I'm doing OTA and need to adjust the antenna on the roof a bit. No buttons I hit seem to do anything more than bring up the cruddy EPG and allow me to scroll through it a bit.

Where is this "signal quality" and "power use" stuff?

Also - I've got the June firmware (5110_1.3.0, I think). What is their intended way of doing a firmware update? Is it user updatable in some capacity (meaning user with some amount of technical skill, of course)? Through what port? Behind the little covered port I saw on the back?

Thanks!
- Aaron

Sorry if I'm breaking any rules by just posting my question, but there are way too many pages to read through.

I am planning on getting a LCD HDTV around 32"-42". I noticed Best Buy has a instant $300 rebate for the television if I join DirecTV. Since my parents are going to subscribe to DirecTV anyways I my as well take advantage of the instant rebate. I saw the Westinghouse TX-42F430S 42" 1080p for $989 and with the $300 instant rebate that brings it down to $689. The instant $300 rebate is only for Television sets over $1000. So if you guys recommend the Westinghouse at $989 I'll be going to Best Buy and try to convince them to mark the Westinghouse at $1000 so I can get the rebate.

Now this TV isn't for them but for me only to use as a computer monitor and watch DirecTV programming. We will not have High Def service from DirecTV, and it will be placed in my computer room.

I have a Nvidia XFX 7600 GT graphics card with DVI output.

I was wondering if this is a good LCD HDTV to buy for my needs? Or are their any better televisions you can recommend?

If they won't let me get the $300 instant rebate for the Westinghouse, are their any LCD Television sets that are slightly over $1000 you can recommend?

My budget is around $600-$700.

Thanks for the help.

Can anyone post their color settings they have for the TX-42F430S?

I would like to maximize the colors over the default.

I use it for 360 / HD-DVD / and soon PC.

Thanks in advance!

I finally got around to hooking my gaming computer up to the TV and played a few games. While, my computer is not top of the line it can hold its own. Those games that support 1920x1080 look spectacular. Those games that don't... look okay. It seems that 1280x1024 always gets stretched to fill the screen while 1024x768 gets put in a square. Kind of weird. I almost wish 1280x1024 was also put in the correct aspect ratio.

It got me to thinking, has anyone done any other testing with various resolutions to see what the TV displays?

Got this nice 1080p budget LCDTV from BestBuy since last Sat - Oct/06/2007. It's working OK for the price I paid for.

However, it has an annoying problem a "bright blue line" across the top of screen...in Standard, Filled or Overscanned mode.
Does anyone know what is wrong w/ my unit?

Westy Tech-Support just advised to reset (yank the plug out for 30 sec.) the unit. But it doesn't fix the problem. The bright blue line is still there. Then, they just simply told me to get it replaced from BestBuy, since the unit is still w/in 30 days.

Any advice on how to get rid this bright blue line?

I was wondering if anyone can help me with my audio issue. I have a home theater in a box(htib) by rca and it only has hdmi, component, audio in, coaxial, but no spdif. I want to play the audio from my analog cable stations(no set top box, just hooks straight to tv) through my htib. When I use the audio L & R out on my tv it only gives me audio to the front left speaker. How would I hook this setup up to give me surround sound for the channels that supply it? Will I have to buy some kind of adapter or can I get a set top box from cable company and run some sort of connection thru the htib? I get surround sound for the dvds but obviously the audio out on the tv is only two channel and that only plays to the front L speaker on mine.:mad:

BLEA30,
I have a similar problem. You are def. not alone in your frustrations. I have had this television with a Sony receiver for about a month now. About 1 week ago I began to receive sound only from the left channel as well. I was using the red/white connectors but then switched to toslink optical out to my receiver. It seemed as if the problem was cured as I was receiving sound from all channels again. This lasted about 1 day and then began to shoot sound from only the left speaker again. I do however get surround sound when veiwing an HD channel(picked up through QUAM, no set top box using Comcast) and a handfull of digital and analog channels will push sound through my center speaker(no others). Also, if I view shows from TIVO i get sound from all speakers as well. I'm confused and irritated. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated by myself and BLEA I'm sure. Thanks in advance. If I come across a fix I will post here to help others that might be having this problem as well. Been reading this forum for awhile and this is my first post. "AVS USERS" have given a great deal of input(Help) to others and I for one THANK YOU ALL.

P.S. I love this television.

I just picked up my new tx-42f430s and im messing around with it, but i cant seem to figure out how to enable the built in subwoofer? Its grayed out along with some other menu functions, when i go to westinghouse website it makes no mention of the the subwoofer yet here and BB.com do...hell even the manual does... if its any help my system info is
build 207 sep 7
software ver 5112_1.2.0
i tried it over the air, hooked up to my fios box (non hd ), xbox 360 with the hd component cables and nothing...

sorry if this has been solved but im halfway through page 10 on this thread

hey, ive got a tX-42F430S and one of the new 360 premiums with hdmi out. i hooked it up via a decent philips hdmi cable, but i cant get the audio to work, displaying fine in 1080p, just no audio. ive messed around with the tv settings and the 360 settings but cant seem to get it working, any ideas?

I hope I am not repeating here, I have done multiple searches and cannot find an answer that relates completely to my issue. Just bought tx-42 this weekend at bb. This is a second set for my wife to watch so a pretty straight forward hookup. No ps3, xbox, pc, etc. Plain old hdmi from tv to directv hd receiver. My issues vary whenever I turn it on. Sometimes I get no signal detected, sometimes I get a picture with no sound, sometimes I get sound but no picture. Once in awhile I do actually get both and when I do get both, frequently the sound is crackling. These issues happen on any of the hdmi ports. When I connect using component cables all is well. My hdmi cable is probably not the highest quality out there (came with directv hd-dvr) but it is brand new. Could this be a bad cable or more likely something to do with the other hdmi issues I have read here with more complex setups than mine. I can continue with the component cable and not bother with the hdmi, but it is irritaing that it even happens. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I hope I am not repeating here, I have done multiple searches and cannot find an answer that relates completely to my issue. Just bought tx-42 this weekend at bb. This is a second set for my wife to watch so a pretty straight forward hookup. No ps3, xbox, pc, etc. Plain old hdmi from tv to directv hd receiver. My issues vary whenever I turn it on. Sometimes I get no signal detected, sometimes I get a picture with no sound, sometimes I get sound but no picture. Once in awhile I do actually get both and when I do get both, frequently the sound is crackling. These issues happen on any of the hdmi ports. When I connect using component cables all is well. My hdmi cable is probably not the highest quality out there (came with directv hd-dvr) but it is brand new. Could this be a bad cable or more likely something to do with the other hdmi issues I have read here with more complex setups than mine. I can continue with the component cable and not bother with the hdmi, but it is irritaing that it even happens. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Make sure you turn the TV on first, then the box, or else you'll have HDMI handshaking issues. This is common on many tvs.

Run the tv in E. Saver mode. It basically reboots the TV every time you turn it off and on, and I've found that even though the 10 second boot up may be annoying, it saves a lot of power and automatically fixes issues that usually require a reboot.

Sorry to be repeating here, but can anyone tell me if the manual's reference on page 13 to a signal meter for OTA is in some capacity true? I can't find any way of checking my OTA signal quality short of letting a given station run for a while to look for break-up. That's not very helpful when trying to lock down the antenna in a sweet spot.

- Aaron

So I was about to ask if it is confirmed if the E.saver is the problem with lock up or if it might of just been the tuner but I read the last post and guess E.Saver is a problem. This really sucks because before I got the tv my electric bill was only $80 a month and now for the last two months it's been $115 a month. We did not use the air conditioning any more than usual. That's $35 dollars a month in electricity. Thats like making payments on a tv I paid cash for. Any additional comments on the E.Saver subject would be great. Thanks.

I use E.Saver exclusively without issue. I have experienced two lockups (once when brand new and one recently) but both were soft reset recoverable (holding the powerbutton for a few seconds). The second one was pretty telling of what I feel is the source of this particular lockup. I had turned on my receiver while the set was booting, a device that sends OSD info via video out. I had never done this prior. My suspicion is that turning on other components that actively send a video signal to the TV while it is still booting must confuse it somehow. Simply demonstrating 12 seconds of patience while the set goes through it's boot process before turning on other devices such as dvd players eliminates the issue.

Make sure you turn the TV on first, then the box, or else you'll have HDMI handshaking issues. This is common on many tvs.

Run the tv in E. Saver mode. It basically reboots the TV every time you turn it off and on, and I've found that even though the 10 second boot up may be annoying, it saves a lot of power and automatically fixes issues that usually require a reboot.

That seems to resolve the no signal detected issue only. Other issues still remain.

Hello all. I am new to AVS and just picked up a Westinghouse TX-43F30S 1080p set from Best Buy on Wednesday. (the deal was amazing)

I have not experienced any lock up, or major issues with the set(aside from not wanting to turn on with the remote while on E-save)

Are there any other issues I should keep an eye out for? There are way too many posts for me to weed through them all.

Hello all. I am new to AVS and just picked up a Westinghouse TX-43F30S 1080p set from Best Buy on Wednesday. (the deal was amazing)

I have not experienced any lock up, or major issues with the set(aside from not wanting to turn on with the remote while on E-save)

Are there any other issues I should keep an eye out for? There are way too many posts for me to weed through them all.

All known issues are on page one of this thread. Please have a read.

Later,

Alex

hey, ive got a tX-42F430S and one of the new 360 premiums with hdmi out. i hooked it up via a decent philips hdmi cable, but i cant get the audio to work, displaying fine in 1080p, just no audio. ive messed around with the tv settings and the 360 settings but cant seem to get it working, any ideas?Are you trying to play the audio through the TV speakers or are you running audio out from the TV to a receiver? If it's the former, you shouldn't be having any problems. If it's the latter, this is a known problem. You can thank your friends in the MPAA for the steaming pile of anti-customer BS that is HDCP.

I originally posted this in the general Westinghouse 42" thread so I hope its not a problem that I post it in the TX series specific thread...

I picked up the TX-42F43OS today and hooked up an LG DN798 upscaling DVD player to HDMI 1.

When the DVD player is set to output 1080p, I occasionally see a white flashing line along the bottom. It appears as if the bottom row of pixels(or one very near it) is displaying as just white. Sometimes it appears to be the entire row, sometimes only a portion of it. It is not consistent and flashes a few times before going away. I haven't seen it when the DVD player is set to output any other resolution.

Has anyone else experienced anything else like this?

I don't have any other HD source yet, but I haven't seen this with SD cable.

Is this more likely a TV problem or a DVD player problem?

Poor quality due to having to take a screenshot of a video:
http://www.shmoopies.com/img/capture.JPG

I originally posted this in the general Westinghouse 42" thread so I hope its not a problem that I post it in the TX series specific thread...

I picked up the TX-42F43OS today and hooked up an LG DN798 upscaling DVD player to HDMI 1.

When the DVD player is set to output 1080p, I occasionally see a white flashing line along the bottom. It appears as if the bottom row of pixels(or one very near it) is displaying as just white. Sometimes it appears to be the entire row, sometimes only a portion of it. It is not consistent and flashes a few times before going away. I haven't seen it when the DVD player is set to output any other resolution.

Has anyone else experienced anything else like this?

I don't have any other HD source yet, but I haven't seen this with SD cable.

Is this more likely a TV problem or a DVD player problem?

Poor quality due to having to take a screenshot of a video:
http://www.shmoopies.com/img/capture.JPG

The TV seems to either show exactly the right amount of pixels or a couple too many rows. I've seen this on some broadcast stations.

To what I understand, that's XDS information we're seeing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong - I was a radio broadcast engineer (yay for compressors and fsk!!!) - not a television broadcast engineer.

I thought this was only above the image, but maybe it's below the image, too.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_Data_Services

The TV seems to either show exactly the right amount of pixels or a couple too many rows. I've seen this on some broadcast stations.

To what I understand, that's XDS information we're seeing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong - I was a radio broadcast engineer (yay for compressors and fsk!!!) - not a television broadcast engineer.

I thought this was only above the image, but maybe it's below the image, too.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_Data_Services

I have seen the same thing on the top on certain stations and believe that is due to the signal.

I believe this line is something different because not only is it on the bottom, but only occurs when the DVD player is set to output 1080p. I don't think DVD players output extra information (intentionally atleast.)

For now I am simply having the DVD player output 1080i, but I want to make sure that I will not have problems if I use other 1080p sources in the future. Unfortunately I don't have any other 1080p sources or monitors to test with.

I believe all Westinghouse sets have 0% overscan compared to the 1-5% overscan that most sets have. Thus you will see extraneous "noise" on one or more edges if the signal is not sending full frame video.

The solution is to select Fill Mode for the Westinghouse which "zooms" the picture by 5%. Many of us have hoped that Westinghouse would allow for variable overscan settings, ie, 1-5% but unfortunately this has not happened.

fafner

For now I am simply having the DVD player output 1080i, but I want to make sure that I will not have problems if I use other 1080p sources in the future. Unfortunately I don't have any other 1080p sources or monitors to test with.Try searching this thread for more info, but I recall some people fixing a similar problem by manually turning off deinterlacing on the Westy when using a 1080p source.

Okay...So I have searched the forums for Firmware upgrade and I don't see any replies with directions for updating the firmware. I bought the TV 10 days ago from best buy and it has the April firmware on it...I see what you guys call handshaking all over the forum but I don't know what that is. It may be similar to the problems I am having when connecting my computer to VGA--there is a 'shaking' graphic with the icons on the desktop (doesn't happen to the start menu).

Anyway, it seems that I need a firmware upgrade. Can anyone assist? Thanks.

Okay...So I have searched the forums for Firmware upgrade and I don't see any replies with directions for updating the firmware. I bought the TV 10 days ago from best buy and it has the April firmware on it...I see what you guys call handshaking all over the forum but I don't know what that is. It may be similar to the problems I am having when connecting my computer to VGA--there is a 'shaking' graphic with the icons on the desktop (doesn't happen to the start menu).

Anyway, it seems that I need a firmware upgrade. Can anyone assist? Thanks.

Unfortunately there has not been a firmware upgrade released to the public and we cannot upgrade our sets. It remains to be seen whether this will even be possible.

Handshaking relates to the HDMI interface, and has nothing to do with VGA. Your description sounds odd. The :shaking" could be related to the VGA cable especially if it doesn't have proper shielding. Does it do it with any other sources? My first initial guess would be VGA. If you drop the resolution down to 1024x768 or 1280x1024 do you still see the shaking? If not, I would definitely point the problem at the VGA cable not being up to the task of a 1920x1080 resolution. I would suggest a DVI>HDMI cable if you were going to buy a new one.

Unfortunately there has not been a firmware upgrade released to the public and we cannot upgrade our sets. It remains to be seen whether this will even be possible.

Handshaking relates to the HDMI interface, and has nothing to do with VGA. Your description sounds odd. The :shaking" could be related to the VGA cable especially if it doesn't have proper shielding. Does it do it with any other sources? My first initial guess would be VGA. If you drop the resolution down to 1024x768 or 1280x1024 do you still see the shaking? If not, I would definitely point the problem at the VGA cable not being up to the task of a 1920x1080 resolution. I would suggest a DVI>HDMI cable if you were going to buy a new one.

I get the screen shake with my PS3 but not my 360 Elite. Both are connected via HDMI. Fortunately, it does not do it during movie playback so I could care less. I have tried using different cables and did the 10 second warm reboot with no luck. Here is hoping they release a firmware update for either the set or the PS3 that fixes the issue.

Later,

Alex

This is a nice tv with great picture but, I'm having audio sync on the HD channels. Turning the channel and back, fixes it for a while but it gets out of sync again after a while. Do I have a defective one? Is there a fix? Thanks. :(

I get the screen shake with my PS3 but not my 360 Elite. Both are connected via HDMI. Fortunately, it does not do it during movie playback so I could care less. I have tried using different cables and did the 10 second warm reboot with no luck. Here is hoping they release a firmware update for either the set or the PS3 that fixes the issue.

Later,

Alex

After further testing, it seems to happen only when looking at the Windows OS. Such s the desktop, or while navigating through folders. The 'shaking' does not occur while watching movies or in games. Weird. I feel bad buying a single cable from monoprice--as if its almost not worth it to them to ship it--but I will try a DVI-HDMI cable.

Ok, this is really annoying!! I first had audio out from tv red/white cable to audio in on htib and only left front speaker worked. So after reviewing some of the audio threads here I ordered all the wires and stuff needed to do the spdif out to my coaxial in on htib but still only front left speaker works? WTF. Any suggestions?

This is a nice tv with great picture but, I'm having audio sync on the HD channels. Turning the channel and back, fixes it for a while but it gets out of sync again after a while. Do I have a defective one? Is there a fix? Thanks. :(

For me this only occurs on NBC, for example when watching Heroes, after every commercial break I could see that the audio was out of sync and there was no other way to fix other than to change and change back.

I have noticed the "handshake" issue with HDMI a couple of times. Nothing too major, went away after a min or two on each show. I have not noticed it too much lately though.

For me this only occurs on NBC, for example when watching Heroes, after every commercial break I could see that the audio was out of sync and there was no other way to fix other than to change and change back.

YES! YES! Now that you mentioned it. It is only on NBC. My frimware is JUNE. Do I take this back and get another one or is there a fix for this. Everything else works great. Thanks.

Ugh, awful to hear that there's no publicly released firmware update for this yet (searching for an answer to this was, in fact, the reason I signed up for the forum). I've been getting the annoying purple line on the bottom of the screen when watching 1080i content through the component inputs; turning off deinterlacing makes it disappear, but then the image is noticeably softer.

Of course, I wouldn't be watching through this input if I wasn't having huge HDMI handshake problems with the Toshiba HD-A20 HD DVD player. Grrrrrr. Someday, somehow, I'll be able to see an actual 1080p picture on this.

Of course, I wouldn't be watching through this input if I wasn't having huge HDMI handshake problems with the Toshiba HD-A20 HD DVD player. Grrrrrr. Someday, somehow, I'll be able to see an actual 1080p picture on this.

Hmmm I Have no problems with my TX-42 and XA2. Do you have a Reciever in the middle? I have mine XA2>Onkyo 605>TX-42 HDMI 1

Oh and what FW on your A20?

maybe we can solve this prob together

so I bought the tx-42f430s and it's been a fantastic tv, big upgrade from my 26 inch crappy TV with "stereo" :) most of what I use this screen for lately has been a PC (through vga for now) and the Wii through component, although the 360 is also hooked up and looks beautiful.

thing is I was wondering if anyone has been able to get around the issue with the volume normalization, especially in games it's a very very annoying "feature" and I would love to turn it off permanently (I can deal with loud commercials on TV, I DONT like my sound's dynamic range being massacred)

so apart from using an external sound source has there been any solution to this problem?

it's not that cant live with it ... but honestly I rather like quiet/loud moments in films and music and it's very distracting to have the sound do this.

After further testing, it seems to happen only when looking at the Windows OS. Such s the desktop, or while navigating through folders. The 'shaking' does not occur while watching movies or in games. Weird. I feel bad buying a single cable from monoprice--as if its almost not worth it to them to ship it--but I will try a DVI-HDMI cable.

Well I know what your talking about with the shaking, I killed my main computer with a bad bios flash last month and used my second computer through the VGA port with a Cheap Nvidia Geforce MX400. Could not get rid of the shaking on that computer. I also have the 360 hooked through the VGA port with no such issue so not sure what caused it. Once I got my Top of the line PC hooked back up through HDMI (2900XT) there is no more shaking of the screen so yea I would try the HDMI cable first. Only other thing I could get out of it is this screen doesnt play well with certain Video cards as I had the same second computer hooked up to my old Westinghouse 37W1 and had no such shaking.

would anyone be able to confirm what is the latest firmware/software version on the tx42?

has there simply been no updates.. i hope westy rolls one out..

would anyone be able to confirm what is the latest firmware/software version on the tx42?

has there simply been no updates.. i hope westy rolls one out..

Dont count on it.

would anyone be able to confirm what is the latest firmware/software version on the tx42?

has there simply been no updates.. i hope westy rolls one out..

Just got my tx47 yesterday... firmware is 2007 June 26, software version 5121_1.3.0

Is this true? I was told by 2 Best Buy employee from Magnola and TV department that is if you have Comast Cable coming from the wall to your RF input, your picture and audio are not going to sync up for 1080i after a while. Please some confirm. Thanks.

Just got my TX47 westy yesterday. So far, I'm blown away. I have a firmware dated 2007 June 26, and the default color is simply amazing. I've a Pioneer DV-400V-k upscaling dvd player, and Transformers on the westy looks fantastic in 1080p!

The only thing is...I have an older Sony receiver connected to the westy by the optical connection, and I can't get audio from the DVD player to the receiver. I can, however, hear the Wii just fine through the receiver.

Is this still an issue, or am I missing something??

I've read through the thread and I just want to confirm that there is no way to remove the black and white horizontal line at the top of HD channels without using fill mode and cutting off a lot of other content as well.

Is this accurate?

The line is just too irritating and distracting for me to enjoy watching tv.

While I agree that the line is not a fault of the TV, but of the signal it is receiving, it is a known issue and Westinghouse should have provided a way to remove it without removing a large portion of the content as well (variable 1-5% overscan sounds good to me.)

Is there a way to get in to the service menu where vertical positioning options may be available?

Are there any options I'm not aware of (short of physically covering the top portion of the screen?)

If my only choices are the distracting line at top or losing a large portion of the content, I will have to return the TV and begin the search for a set with better overscan/positioning options.

so I bought the tx-42f430s and it's been a fantastic tv, big upgrade from my 26 inch crappy TV with "stereo" :) most of what I use this screen for lately has been a PC (through vga for now) and the Wii through component, although the 360 is also hooked up and looks beautiful.

thing is I was wondering if anyone has been able to get around the issue with the volume normalization, especially in games it's a very very annoying "feature" and I would love to turn it off permanently (I can deal with loud commercials on TV, I DONT like my sound's dynamic range being massacred)

so apart from using an external sound source has there been any solution to this problem?

it's not that cant live with it ... but honestly I rather like quiet/loud moments in films and music and it's very distracting to have the sound do this.

It's fully automatic and non-defeatable. Sorry. They don't even list it as a feature in the specifications, so knowing westinghouse they probably didn't even realize it did it when they contracted to buy this particular audio processor.

I just picked up my new tx-42f430s and im messing around with it, but i cant seem to figure out how to enable the built in subwoofer? Its grayed out along with some other menu functions, when i go to westinghouse website it makes no mention of the the subwoofer yet here and BB.com do...hell even the manual does... if its any help my system info is
build 207 sep 7
software ver 5112_1.2.0
i tried it over the air, hooked up to my fios box (non hd ), xbox 360 with the hd component cables and nothing...

sorry if this has been solved but im halfway through page 10 on this thread

I have the same issue -- the missing subwoofer option. I too apologize if the problem or solution has already been addressed in this thread but it's darned long.
Build-on date:2007 Sep 7
Software version:5112_1.2.0

Ok, this is really annoying!! I first had audio out from tv red/white cable to audio in on htib and only left front speaker worked. So after reviewing some of the audio threads here I ordered all the wires and stuff needed to do the spdif out to my coaxial in on htib but still only front left speaker works? WTF. Any suggestions?

Double check that you have stereo enabled in the audio section of the HUD for the TV input, mine was set to MONO out of the box. In fact, I changed it to stereo on ALL of my inputs.

Good Luck,

Alex

After further testing, it seems to happen only when looking at the Windows OS. Such s the desktop, or while navigating through folders. The 'shaking' does not occur while watching movies or in games. Weird. I feel bad buying a single cable from monoprice--as if its almost not worth it to them to ship it--but I will try a DVI-HDMI cable.

Have you tried messing with a new driver for your machine? I don't remember if you have an nvidia or ati gfx card. Try it and let us know.

Thanks,

Alex

This thread is so long I'm afraid to read it all in fear that I'll get a massive headache.

Does everyone who bought this tv regret it at all ? I had the LVM37-W3 and it geeked on me after a while. I cried. BestBuy gave me the tx-42 because they don't carry the 37 anymore.

I've noticed when using hdmi with my charter HD cable box, when I use my box to upscale to fill the screen after a while the video and audio will start stuttering/looping. Once I rid of the upscale I see 2 different screens, you can see the screen that it is looping and the normal screen it's trying to play. Very upset with this and hope it doesn't continue. 2 Westy products with problems, very sad.

Sooo... On my second TV. The first one locked up in stand by and would not come out of it. I had been dated earlier than my current set which is the Sep 7th build with the 5112 1.2.0 firmware. Is it me or does it seem like they fell back to an earlier firmware?

So after a few days of testing, calibrating, and all that wonderful stuff, the blacks on this tv, least mine are HORRIBLE, this is my 4th westy product and none of them have been this bad, none of them except this one has given me reason to complain.

I think I'm gonna trade this one in for the sharp lc-42d64u

TX-47F430S:
Display corruption if I 'attach' the TV via the nvidia control panel without the TV being on...then turn it on. Every source will be corrupted until I detach and power cycle the TV.

My firmware:
5110_1.1.0
Build-on 2007 April 13

Is there a newer firmware?

Hmmm I Have no problems with my TX-42 and XA2. Do you have a Reciever in the middle? I have mine XA2>Onkyo 605>TX-42 HDMI 1

Oh and what FW on your A20?

maybe we can solve this prob together

No receiver in the middle, alas. The firmware is the latest - 2.5. What happened was this:

-Bought the A-20 very recently. Wanted to try something right out of the box, so I popped in the infamous 'Children of Men' combo disc without first getting a firmware update. It played all the way through just fine, but when I tried to go directly to a chapter the player locked up, so I figured now was the time.

-Firmware downloaded. Playback problems are a thing of the past, but now the HDMI connection goes to black, then comes back, goes to black...and so on. After a minute or two it's gone completely, and the TV acknowledges that it's getting no actual signal.

-Toshiba suggests several workarounds for this, like turning the TV on first, making sure other HDMI devices are on even if unused, etc. Unfortunately, no combination of things causes any real difference. I get a beautiful 1080p picture for, oh, about the first three seconds the player is on.

I also have an Oppo DVD player with a DVI-to-HDMI connection and I've never had a problem, so the A-20 must be it. There's also the fact that it worked without a hitch for a full two hours before the firmware update; I figure something in 2.5 led to this. Logic would suggest that the next update might fix it, so I've just given up, reported the problem in detail to Toshiba and am now just waiting for the next version of the firmware to be released.

In the meantime, 1080i over component is fine...although, perversely, this particular TV has that deinterlacing problem, so there's really no perfect solution. Leaving things interlaced made the picture very slightly softer, and I'm the kind of person who's driven nuts by that kind of thing. I finally just put a narrow strip of black construction paper over the bottom of the screen, believe it or not. It's not pretty in daylight, but in a darkened room it's perfect (well, you know).

Why is there a DVI button on the remote (tx42) but no dvi connection on the tv? Or is it that I just don't see it...

Ok, I bought a Westinghouse TX-42F430S..LOVE IT...problem is with getting audio set up...

I have my XBox 360 run through the YPbPr1 and audio
I have my DVD Player (Phillips DVP5960) run through HDMI into HDMI2 on the TV
I have my TV audio out through the optical digital out into my receiver...

My problem is this...

When I play my Xbox 360 and do my audio on my receiver as TV optical, the sound is AWESOME, shakes the room
When I play my DVDs I get ZERO sound from my receiver
When I play just the TV I get sound, but only from one side of the speakers and no bass at all....

If the only audio out is connected to the receiver the problem must be in the TV on a setting I haven't figured out yet..

Can someone help me figure out why I get no sound on my DVD and only half of it on the TV going out my receiver?

Thanks!

Did you change the TV Audio speakers to external and/or mixed?

Yes, I have it on mixed..tried external too and no sound from the DVD player and only one side when it's on TV channels....

Even weirder is that I hooked my PC up to it and the sound comes out of my receiver loud and crisp.

Like I said, the only audio out I am using is the digital output from the TV to the receiver.

I fixed the TV problem.....loose cable...now the sound is great from the TV through the receiver, the 360 and PC through the receiver is great, only thing with no sound through the receiver is the DVD player...but I get sound through the TV..this is weird.

I recently bought a TX-42F430S from Best Buy, and I am having a couple of issues. I have been reading through this thread and I haven't been quite able to match up my issues to any I have found here. I am trying to determine if I should take it to BB to exchange; any help would be greatly appreciated.

My TV:

TX-42F430S
Build-on: 2007 June 26
Software Version: 5112_1.3.0
Power Mode: E.Saver
Comcast Digital Cable on HDMI2, Motorola DCT3416I Dual Tuner HD DVR
PC on VGA, Asus Radeon 9800XT, extended desktop in 1920x1080


My issues:

Sometimes when I turn on the TV, it says "No input detected," although the source is active. I understand that this happens when the source is active before the TV is finished booting. Is this correct? Is this common among all sets of this model, or would a replacement potentially not have this issue?
Sometimes when the TV is on a 480i channel, and then I change to a 1080i/720p broadcast, my set will only display the upper-left corner of the picture, but stretch it to fill most of the screen. If I change between channels when this issue is occurring, all 480i channels will display properly but all 1080i/720p channels will have the issue.
Often the audio and video will continue working, but the TV will stop responding to the remote and the buttons on the side of the TV. I haven't noticed any patten to when this happens; it seems random but happens frequently.
At times when I turn on the TV, the audio will be very jittery, even after changing channels.


Pulling out the power cable and then plugging it back in tends to fix all of these issues, but I would really rather not have to keep doing that. Thank you for taking the time to read about my issues, and I look forward to your input.

Seems you might have a bum system....I've been reading the thread and it seems if you have the firmware dated Sept 07 you're fine, but sets before that date are plagued with problems....

Seems you might have a bum system....I've been reading the thread and it seems if you have the firmware dated Sept 07 you're fine, but sets before that date are plagued with problems....

Thanks for the (very quick) response. That's what I was thinking... If you guys didn't think these issues were worth exchanging the set, then I would consider returning it altogether (I've only been so lenient with it because I took advantage of a very good deal to get it). I have off from work tomorrow for an early morning dentist appointment, so maybe i'll take the opportunity to exchange it. Only problem is when I unboxed the TV, I was trying to determine whether to keep the box or throw it out. I thought about it for a minute and then said "I have always kept the box and I have never needed it," so I threw it out. Hopefully they have another in stock at BB, and I'll have to figure out how to get it there.

Make sure you check the software date when you get it...make sure it's Sept 07.

Should I try to check it in the store? Do you think they'll let me? Then if it's not Sept 07, I doubt they'll be too happy when I ask for another.

I fixed the TV problem.....loose cable...now the sound is great from the TV through the receiver, the 360 and PC through the receiver is great, only thing with no sound through the receiver is the DVD player...but I get sound through the TV..this is weird.

Fixed the entire problem...thank goodness my buddy is an audiophile...the problem is that going from HDMI to my TV then out the digital audio into the receiver....I'm going digital audio to the TV out through the TV speakers...the TV can't translate it a second time and send it out through the receiver since my receiver is an older model.....so I just hooked the coax out of my DVD player to the coax in of the receiver, set the DVD selection to be coax 1 in, and viola! I'm in business!

Fixed the entire problem...thank goodness my buddy is an audiophile...the problem is that going from HDMI to my TV then out the digital audio into the receiver....I'm going digital audio to the TV out through the TV speakers...the TV can't translate it a second time and send it out through the receiver since my receiver is an older model.....so I just hooked the coax out of my DVD player to the coax in of the receiver, set the DVD selection to be coax 1 in, and viola! I'm in business!baibbas, what is the date on your firmware? As far as myself and some others here can tell, the problem you experienced is due to HDCP (copy protection), as required by the MPAA and their cronies. Older TXs passed HDMI audio to the digital/optical-out just fine, but the newer firmwares (June 2007 and newer, IIRC) have eliminated that feature to appease Hollywood. It makes me mad enough to hit someone.

Can anyone tell me what # of dead pixels constitute Westy, or in my case best buy, to repair? I purchased the 4 yr repair plan from best buy and I was watching TV this evening and noticed so far 1 dead pixel (there were none when I purchased). I can see the dead pixel when dark colors are displayed but when lighter colors are on the set, I can't locate it.

I called Best Buy and they are going to have a technician call me on Tuesday (I wanted this on record at the least with them)

I recently bought a TX-42F430S from Best Buy, and I am having a couple of issues. I have been reading through this thread and I haven't been quite able to match up my issues to any I have found here. I am trying to determine if I should take it to BB to exchange; any help would be greatly appreciated.

My TV:

TX-42F430S
Build-on: 2007 June 26
Software Version: 5112_1.3.0
Power Mode: E.Saver
Comcast Digital Cable on HDMI2, Motorola DCT3416I Dual Tuner HD DVR
PC on VGA, Asus Radeon 9800XT, extended desktop in 1920x1080


My issues:

Sometimes when I turn on the TV, it says "No input detected," although the source is active. I understand that this happens when the source is active before the TV is finished booting. Is this correct? Is this common among all sets of this model, or would a replacement potentially not have this issue?
Sometimes when the TV is on a 480i channel, and then I change to a 1080i/720p broadcast, my set will only display the upper-left corner of the picture, but stretch it to fill most of the screen. If I change between channels when this issue is occurring, all 480i channels will display properly but all 1080i/720p channels will have the issue.
Often the audio and video will continue working, but the TV will stop responding to the remote and the buttons on the side of the TV. I haven't noticed any patten to when this happens; it seems random but happens frequently.
At times when I turn on the TV, the audio will be very jittery, even after changing channels.


Pulling out the power cable and then plugging it back in tends to fix all of these issues, but I would really rather not have to keep doing that. Thank you for taking the time to read about my issues, and I look forward to your input.

I am experiencing these exact problems. I bought the warranty for this TV and was in BB asking about something else and mentioned the problems with my TV. They told me that they would try to "repair" it first ... not exchange it. Seems like a big waste of my time and theirs. I have the TV wall mounted and have also gotten rid of the box. If I take it back, how do I convince them to just exchange it for a new one for me?

Also, where do I look to find the firmware version?

I am experiencing these exact problems. I bought the warranty for this TV and was in BB asking about something else and mentioned the problems with my TV. They told me that they would try to "repair" it first ... not exchange it. Seems like a big waste of my time and theirs. I have the TV wall mounted and have also gotten rid of the box. If I take it back, how do I convince them to just exchange it for a new one for me?

Also, where do I look to find the firmware version?

My plan to convince them to exchange it is to take it in and say I am going to flat-out return it if they don't exchange it. I won't be bluffing either, as I find the number of issues to be unexcusable, even for the deeply discounted price I paid.

The firmware version is in Menu > Settings > System Info.

My plan to convince them to exchange it is to take it in and say I am going to flat-out return it if they don't exchange it. I won't be bluffing either, as I find the number of issues to be unexcusable, even for the deeply discounted price I paid.

The firmware version is in Menu > Settings > System Info.

What's the return policy/period at Best Buy ... I've had my set for over 30 days.

What's the return policy/period at Best Buy ... I've had my set for over 30 days.

I'm pretty sure it's 30 days to return TVs at BB with no restocking fee. Price match is 60 days.

In case anyone was wondering, the customer service girls at BB tried to reproduce my issues with no luck for a half hour and then exchanged my TV with no problem. Of course the TV works perfectly when I want it to misbehave. I asked them to turn it on and show me the System Info before I took it home. They did. It has the same "2007 June 06" build-on date, and 5112_1.3.0 software version. I told them it's going to have the same issues and asked if they would try to find me one with the newer software. As expected, they declined stating that they can't just keep opening them to find the newer software unless BB tells them to stop selling the older version. Oh well, I tried. Hopefully this one will be better, but I have a new 30 days to exchange it if it acts up (I made sure to ask if I get 30 days from today or only the remainder of the original 30 days--an exchange comes with a new 30 days).

Simple Question
What is the remote model number?

Can anyone tell me what # of dead pixels constitute Westy, or in my case best buy, to repair? I purchased the 4 yr repair plan from best buy and I was watching TV this evening and noticed so far 1 dead pixel (there were none when I purchased). I can see the dead pixel when dark colors are displayed but when lighter colors are on the set, I can't locate it.

I called Best Buy and they are going to have a technician call me on Tuesday (I wanted this on record at the least with them)


Ok i am reposting this as I didn't get an answer. I do not think now it is a dead pixel but rather a fixed picel, fixed to light colors.

Simple Question
What is the remote model number?

The remote says RMS-05, and the sticker on the bag it came in says "REMOTE *903YS11001*" below the barcode.

So are Best Buy's starting to get the September '07 build date units now? Do these tend to clear up most of the problems on page 1? (I am mainly interested in the lockup and stutter/dropout issues).

In case anyone was wondering, the customer service girls at BB tried to reproduce my issues with no luck for a half hour and then exchanged my TV with no problem. Of course the TV works perfectly when I want it to misbehave. I asked them to turn it on and show me the System Info before I took it home. They did. It has the same "2007 June 06" build-on date, and 5112_1.3.0 software version. I told them it's going to have the same issues and asked if they would try to find me one with the newer software. As expected, they declined stating that they can't just keep opening them to find the newer software unless BB tells them to stop selling the older version. Oh well, I tried. Hopefully this one will be better, but I have a new 30 days to exchange it if it acts up (I made sure to ask if I get 30 days from today or only the remainder of the original 30 days--an exchange comes with a new 30 days).
So far so good with the new set...

So far so good with the new set...

Tac - curiousity ... where do you live?

I've read through the thread and I just want to confirm that there is no way to remove the black and white horizontal line at the top of HD channels without using fill mode and cutting off a lot of other content as well.

Is this accurate?

The line is just too irritating and distracting for me to enjoy watching tv.

While I agree that the line is not a fault of the TV, but of the signal it is receiving, it is a known issue and Westinghouse should have provided a way to remove it without removing a large portion of the content as well (variable 1-5% overscan sounds good to me.)

Is there a way to get in to the service menu where vertical positioning options may be available?

Are there any options I'm not aware of (short of physically covering the top portion of the screen?)

If my only choices are the distracting line at top or losing a large portion of the content, I will have to return the TV and begin the search for a set with better overscan/positioning options.

Honestly, I don't think the Westy's "Fill" mode is that bad. "Overscan" is over-the-top for the CC line, but it is perfect for material that is 4:3 and letterboxed from the source - that's the only thing I use it for. When the CC line annoys me, I find fill to be okay...yes, variable would be nice...but it's not more than 5%, not a deal-breaker for me.

Ed

Tac - curiousity ... where do you live?

I live in southern NJ. I bought the original set in Fairless Hills, PA, on my lunch hour. I exchanged it in Deptford, NJ.

does anyone else get blinking on the left side of the screen when watching HD content? It looks to be like a very thin line..almost like the CC on the top of certain HD content

Can anyone tell me what # of dead pixels constitute Westy, or in my case best buy, to repair? I purchased the 4 yr repair plan from best buy and I was watching TV this evening and noticed so far 1 dead pixel (there were none when I purchased). I can see the dead pixel when dark colors are displayed but when lighter colors are on the set, I can't locate it.

I called Best Buy and they are going to have a technician call me on Tuesday (I wanted this on record at the least with them)


Ok i am reposting this as I didn't get an answer. I do not think now it is a dead pixel but rather a fixed picel, fixed to light colors.

You need to be looking elsewhere if your looking for a perfect pixel LCD. As in a different tech as most will have 2 or 3 stuck or bad pixels if not more some times. I have yet to get a perfect LCD out of 4 bought now. My Westinghouse 47" has 2 stuck pixels. You just have to realize this and accept it when your buying LCD. They are for the most part to small to see unless your right on top of the TV.

tac
i am having problems with my television recently and was wondering if you just brought your television back to best buy or if you had them come get it. i still have my box but it is not in good shape. if you could tell me how to go about exchanging it that would be great.

my televsion is the same software as your original television as yours tac , built on 2007 june 26 and version 5112-1.3.0, i am experiencing all of the same problems that your were having

Hello gentlemen,

Apologies for asking this question if it has already been discussed. I have read pages 1 - 22 and haven't been able to find a solution to my problem.
I love the TV and am quite happy with it.
The only problem is watching movies -the blacks seem to become very pixelated.
Also, I have run the 1:1 pixel mapping test pattern from flatpanels.DK via my RGB cable and the screen goes completely jittery. It looks as though the pixels are running back and forth across the screen when running in 1920 x 1080.
I need to change screen resolution to 1280 x 800 to get the pixels to actually map properly.

Any advice or solutions to this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the help! :)

p.s. I am running build June 26 2007 version 5112_1.3.0

Hello gentlemen,

Apologies for asking this question if it has already been discussed. I have read pages 1 - 22 and haven't been able to find a solution to my problem.
I love the TV and am quite happy with it.
The only problem is watching movies -the blacks seem to become very pixelated.
Also, I have run the 1:1 pixel mapping test pattern from flatpanels.DK via my RGB cable and the screen goes completely jittery. It looks as though the pixels are running back and forth across the screen when running in 1920 x 1080.
I need to change screen resolution to 1280 x 800 to get the pixels to actually map properly.

Any advice or solutions to this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the help! :)

p.s. I am running build June 26 2007 version 5112_1.3.0

Do a warm reboot while the movie is playing by holding the power button on the TV itself for 10 seconds. I have that problem with my 360 + HD-DVD and PS3 sometimes. I just turn of the set and turn it back on and the problem is gone.

How does one get updated anyways? I've still got firmware 5110 1.1.0 dated 2007 April 13. This HDCP crap is irritating me to no end! I don't have a single device that'll play standard DVDs through HDMI without flickering and dropping out constantly. Tried and Xbox 360 Elite, PS3, and Sony upscaling player. Now that I've switched from playing games to watching movies, this TV is really making me wish I kept my old set! I'm not making this early adopter mistake again if this is how things are gonna be :( I'm out of my return period obviously, since I got my set to replace that awful 42w2 via store warranty, unless I can convince them I've got a bad set. But if it doesn't reproduce the problem when I show it off, I'll just be laughed at by Rex.

nbaffoni77: I took my TV to Best Buy and put it up on the return/exchange counter. I explained my issues and they tried to reproduce them for a half hour. When they couldn't, I told them if they won't exchange the TV, then I am going to return it. They exchanged it. If you are within 30 days, I suggest exchanging it. I haven't had any of these issues on my new TV (yet).