Schmev: Westinghouse hasn't released any firmware updates to the public, although there is a USB port on the back labeled "Service port." Feel free to call them and try to convince them to give us firmware updates.

You need to be looking elsewhere if your looking for a perfect pixel LCD. As in a different tech as most will have 2 or 3 stuck or bad pixels if not more some times. I have yet to get a perfect LCD out of 4 bought now. My Westinghouse 47" has 2 stuck pixels. You just have to realize this and accept it when your buying LCD. They are for the most part to small to see unless your right on top of the TV.


Well I have a tech scheduled to come out on the 11th(first Saturday appointment available) The 11th is the 30 day mark for me. This will give me the ability to see if any other issues will arise before the tech gets here. BB 4 year service plan for the win!!

So, is there a verdict here re: which westinghouse 47" has the better picture overall? Best blacks?

The set will be used in a family room (mixed light) ...

Sources -

Mac mini
Cox HD DVR
Either up-converting DVD player or PS3 or HD-DVD player


Preferred content -

TV -
Heroes
BSG
NASCAR
CSI
Weeds
Eureka

Movies -
Blade Runner
Sin City
Shooter
The illusionist

Computer -
Video Podcasts
Music w/ visualizer (Jewel Case)
Lux
rosetta stone


Final verdict? LVM-47w1...or TX series?

Thanks all...

jwd

Well I have a tech scheduled to come out on the 11th(first Saturday appointment available) The 11th is the 30 day mark for me. This will give me the ability to see if any other issues will arise before the tech gets here. BB 4 year service plan for the win!!

By all means if your not happy with the stuck pixel and since you paid for the service contract you could try exchanging it but could end up worst then you are now. If you have no issues beyond one stuck pixel and are happy with the TV then you should keep it. The Tech will not be able to do anything for your stuck pixel you do realize that, Right? Normal return policies for online retailers are 7 stuck or burnt out pixels before an exchange. Its just the nature of LCD technology. There are several issues with these TV's that are annoying as well but I still have mine. The occasional sound popping is my biggest annoyance with my 47"

So are Best Buy's starting to get the September '07 build date units now? Do these tend to clear up most of the problems on page 1? (I am mainly interested in the lockup and stutter/dropout issues).

I bought my TX42 on like the 9th.. I got the September firmware. I don't have any of the problems that people list in this thread. My only issue is that I can't turn on/off the subwoofer. The option is greyed out like someone else mentioned a page or two ago.

it sounds like an option that didn't work in the first place (like PIP, which should be grayed out in the options menu)

I didn't notice this until trying some bass heavy music through the speakers..it doesn't sound like its on or working at all. I even pumped up the volume to check, no bass at all.

By all means if your not happy with the stuck pixel and since you paid for the service contract you could try exchanging it but could end up worst then you are now. If you have no issues beyond one stuck pixel and are happy with the TV then you should keep it. The Tech will not be able to do anything for your stuck pixel you do realize that, Right? Normal return policies for online retailers are 7 stuck or burnt out pixels before an exchange. Its just the nature of LCD technology. There are several issues with these TV's that are annoying as well but I still have mine. The occasional sound popping is my biggest annoyance with my 47"I agree...I bit the bullet, though, and had my 47" exchanged: there was a band from the top to the bottom of the screen that was dimmer than the rest of the screen -- VERY noticeable when there's a solid color on the screen (like the sky). I notice it in the new one, too...but not as prominently. The new TV is near perfect (as "perfect" as $1400 gets you!;)) -- but there's still the popping on the HDMI's (I use the optical for 5.1 surround anyway, most of the time...).

I have a question that I hope someone on here could help me with. I just bought a TX-42f430s from BB and I have some concerns with what I think is being described as clouding. The problem seems to be spread throughout my panel as the black is pretty uneven, but my major concern is the clouding coming from the lower left corner. I have attached a picture. Do all Westys suffer from this to a extent, or is my tv just a dud? It really is not to noticable while viewing cable or Blu-ray movies, but it does bother me to know that it is there.

I have a question that I hope someone on here could help me with. I just bought a TX-42f430s from BB and I have some concerns with what I think is being described as clouding. The problem seems to be spread throughout my panel as the black is pretty uneven, but my major concern is the clouding coming from the lower left corner. I have attached a picture. Do all Westys suffer from this to a extent, or is my tv just a dud? It really is not to noticable while viewing cable or Blu-ray movies, but it does bother me to know that it is there.


This is another annoyance thing with many LCD's in this price range I believe. My lighting with a blank screen is very noticeable as well. It is far from a perfect even light. Yours looks fine to me. Or should I say normal for this TV.

I agree with nascar24. I think it's a case of "you get what you pay for," although mine is (luckily) fairly evenly lit.

Thank you for the replies. I guess that this is something that is considered normal for a budget monitor. I don't know, I might just take it back and see if I can get one with a more even backlight.

Nevermind, I guess I should've dug deeper into the research. Changed some search terms that weren't so obvious to me and found my answer LOL.

Hi guys, I recently purchased a TX-42 after reading this forum for a couple of months and generally having my eye on it since the summer. Got it at BB after their recent sale a couple of weeks back.

So far things have been going fairly smoothly with it and I'm more or less satisfied. But I'm still well within the 30 days to return it and want to make sure I've run it through all of it's paces before letting that time go by.

Mine has what I guess is the latest firmware (September something), so I'm guessing I may be having better luck than some of the earlier purchases. And a big boo-hiss to Westinghouse for not making the later firmware available for those that want to try it.

Anyway, my main question is this:

I was disappointed to see only one coax input to the TV. Since it has two (or three, if you count QAM, I guess) internal tuners, I was hoping I'd be able to always have my analog cable plus my ATSC antenna plugged in. Since there's only one, the best solution I've so far come up with is to use one of those manual switches that has an "A" and "B" button (lamely enough I had to use that crap for analog cable in San Jose only a few years back -- luckily I hung onto it).

So firstly, is there any better solution than what I just described for someone wanting to use the internal NTSC *and* ATSC tuners interchangeably? It's not *that* big of a deal to have to manually switch between them, but fairly lame considering we're talking about a $1000+ piece of equipment. I don't suppose there's anyway to combine the cable + antenna signals onto one wire (like with a reverse splitter / multiplexer)? Obviously that wouldn't work if the frequencies overlap, and even then there might be other problems. Anyway, I'm clueless on this issue and mildly disappointed with the current setup.

The second question is related: the only way that I've figured out how to get the Westy to actually switch between the two tuners (cable <-> air) is to go into the section on the menu where one does the scan for channels, change the tuner type and then I have to initiate a scan (luckily I can limit it to just a few channels). Only after the scan completes (and the tuner has been changed) does the tuner actually seem to change. This second problem (if this is as good as it gets) I find extremely lame, and just a totally stupid software problem. Someone please tell me that there's a better work around than what I've found. Anyone? I suppose most people might not use the set in the way that I'm trying to, but I'd appreciate any feedback or suggestions.

These above problems and some auto-detection of my PC over HDMI when the computer is turned on before the TV are my only big issues right now. Otherwise, pretty satisfied with the purchase.

Thanks.

tgice, I've got the original firmware, does your set still display a pink line on some TV content? Removable by turning de-interlacing off? And what of HDMI handshakes?

In case anyone was wondering, the customer service girls at BB tried to reproduce my issues with no luck for a half hour and then exchanged my TV with no problem. Of course the TV works perfectly when I want it to misbehave. I asked them to turn it on and show me the System Info before I took it home. They did. It has the same "2007 June 06" build-on date, and 5112_1.3.0 software version. I told them it's going to have the same issues and asked if they would try to find me one with the newer software. As expected, they declined stating that they can't just keep opening them to find the newer software unless BB tells them to stop selling the older version. Oh well, I tried. Hopefully this one will be better, but I have a new 30 days to exchange it if it acts up (I made sure to ask if I get 30 days from today or only the remainder of the original 30 days--an exchange comes with a new 30 days).

Since I've had my set for more than 30 days, the Best Buy tech guys are coming tomorrow to look at my problems. I am assuming that my problems may or may not be able to be duplicated. When I called the BB service # and talked to them I tried to just get an exchange, but they want to come look at it for service. I don't want to be in the situation where they come out ... there are no problems .. and BB service leaves without doing anything. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do so they "fix" the problem ... aka ... exchange the TV!

Hi I just bought my 42 last night, it was a friends that was downgrading from a house to an apartment, and he just bought it about 2 months ago...

So far so good, have not had a chance to run much through it yet other than my Sat box through Component cables, but still looks good...

A Couple of questions.....
1) My menu or OSD looks way more basic and different than what is in the manual, in fact it goes verticle down the screen not horziontal like it shows in the manual. I have no options for time, parental control, factory rest, tuner, etc..

2)I thought this model had an upscale that would make the 720 into 1020 with either HDMI input or Component input, all I can get it 720. Not sure if I am doing something wrong...


That's it so far, but for having it a couple of days, so far so good!!

Thanks

tgice, I've got the original firmware, does your set still display a pink line on some TV content? Removable by turning de-interlacing off? And what of HDMI handshakes?

I've not seen a pink line. I'm assuming your talking about viewing through the ATSC tuner. I've not spent too much time doing that yet, since I primarily have been using HDMI from my MythTV PC.

On a few stations, I did notice a vertical (on the left) few pixel wide white line which I removed by doing 1% overscan in MythTV. Also, on some channels there's the white and black shifting (is that perhaps the closed captioning?) at the top of the screen. I think that is also possibly helped / solved by overscanning in MythTV. I realize that may not help most people just using the TV w/ no other overscan ability.

I don't think I've had any HDMI handshake problems. Have only used it so far with my Biostar TF7050-M2 (which has an actual HDMI port on board, not DVI -> HDMI w/ an adapter). That seems to work fine unless (as mentioned above) the computer is on well before the TV and the mobo video card doesn't get a chance to get the actual EDID from the TV. I'm hoping to fix that directly in the Nvidia driver settings later.

Since I've had my set for more than 30 days, the Best Buy tech guys are coming tomorrow to look at my problems. I am assuming that my problems may or may not be able to be duplicated. When I called the BB service # and talked to them I tried to just get an exchange, but they want to come look at it for service. I don't want to be in the situation where they come out ... there are no problems .. and BB service leaves without doing anything. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do so they "fix" the problem ... aka ... exchange the TV!

Well, the BB tech/service guy came today. I was extremely happy this morning when I turned on my TV and had the garbled sound issue. I wasn't going to have to try to reproduce the problem ... it happened on it's own. So, I left the TV on for several hours until the BB guy got there. I described all the problems I have had. The BB guy checked some stuff on his laptop. Then basically said that Westinghouse doesn't really readily supply parts for their TV's ... so I would have to bring it in for an exchange. He took the serial number and left. Called me within a 1/2 hour with a Confirmation # and told me to bring the TV, remote and confirmation # to BB for an exchange. After a little confusion by the Customer Service desk, the exchange was made and I was on my way home with a new 42" Westinghouse. Same model. This one has the Sept 2007 build date on it. And version of 5112_1.2.0 --- my old TV was the June 2007 build date with version 5112_1.3.0. I am HOPING not to have the same issues with this one! Wish me luck!

Messing around some more I also found that I have PIP and POP, and 1 or maybe 2 other options???

I thought that maybe I had another model, but all the hookups are the same, 4 HDMI ports, etc....

Is this a first run of these? Maybe he bought it longer than 2 or 3 months ago....still waiting on the reciept....:mad:

Two dead pixels and that white/pink vertical line running down the left side on a couple HD channels that was caused by the 1:1 pixel mapping. Currently testing out a LG 42LB5D and if that one doesn't work I'm going to try out the Aquos. This is getting exhausting...

OK tried again, first did a soft reset, with the power button, then a hard reset, unplugged it for about 10 minutes, to see if I could get out of whatever mode it was in, and still nothing.
No regular menu, still when I hit the menu button, it comes up in a small (about 1/4 screen) box that has 4 or 5 "sub-menus" of which I can only access the 1st one, then the 3rd, 4th and 5th. The second one appears to be a input menu, the first being output, the 3rd Audio, etc...

2)I thought this model had an upscale that would make the 720 into 1020 with either HDMI input or Component input, all I can get it 720. Not sure if I am doing something wrong...Fixed-pixel displays (of which LCDs are one type) must upscale or downscale EVERYTHING to its native resolution before showing it, so yes these TVs do upscale. I'm guessing that your confusion is coming from the little box at the top-right that is showing "720p". That's just the TV telling you the resolution of the source feed. The picture you're seeing has then been upscaled from 720p to 1080p. HTH

Since I've had my set for more than 30 days, the Best Buy tech guys are coming tomorrow to look at my problems. I am assuming that my problems may or may not be able to be duplicated. When I called the BB service # and talked to them I tried to just get an exchange, but they want to come look at it for service. I don't want to be in the situation where they come out ... there are no problems .. and BB service leaves without doing anything. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do so they "fix" the problem ... aka ... exchange the TV!

Could use your manufacturers warranty and have Westinghouse do an RMA on it.

Later,

Alex

Hi I just bought my 42 last night, it was a friends that was downgrading from a house to an apartment, and he just bought it about 2 months ago...

So far so good, have not had a chance to run much through it yet other than my Sat box through Component cables, but still looks good...

A Couple of questions.....
1) My menu or OSD looks way more basic and different than what is in the manual, in fact it goes verticle down the screen not horziontal like it shows in the manual. I have no options for time, parental control, factory rest, tuner, etc..

2)I thought this model had an upscale that would make the 720 into 1020 with either HDMI input or Component input, all I can get it 720. Not sure if I am doing something wrong...


That's it so far, but for having it a couple of days, so far so good!!

Thanks

You sure you have the right model? Is it the TX series or the LVM series. What you are describing sounds more like the LVM series in which case you are in the wrong thread.

Later,

Alex

I've got the 42" and I'm completely happy with it, save for one strange issue. I guess you would call it "ghosting" except it doesn't go away until the image changes. moving content is fine, but if a big area is one color, then changes to another, the outline from before is still there until it changes again. I get dark trails from my mouse cursor on my Ubuntu box (DVI->HDMI) and the menus in Gundam Crossfire leave big impressions when they go away (PS3->HDMI). I really don't watch much TV, but I can't see it being a problem there as it's a moving source for the most part. However, I bought this thing for gaming. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks unclben, that is what I was looking at so in theory it's at 1080p but the source is 720p. Ok I think I understand now.....yeah not really, but I do..

Alex, I am pretty sure the one I have is the TX, did the LVM series come with 4 HDMI inputs? I thought they only had 1, and the OSD looks differnet then the LVM series menu too.

I think this has been discussed, but I don't know if there's a solution.

The sound setting for my set is mono. It's greyed out so the setting cannot be changed. Anyone else have this problem?

Thread is awesome, responses are great and I'm hoping to get help on an issue I'm having. So I just recently got a 42' LCD (TX-42F430S), which I'm absolutely loving. One problem I've encountered, though, is with my Xbox 360. Everything seems to work fine, game-wise; however, when watching DVD's, I'm constantly getting a "No Input Signal" message. Some DVDs work, but some don't. I'm currently hooked up via component cables. I've tried to lower the resolution on the xbox, and while that seems to let some DVD's play, it's inevitable that the message will pop up eventually. Anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking of getting a VGA connection in hopes that it may cure the issue, but I don't want to encounter the same problems.

Alex, I am pretty sure the one I have is the TX, did the LVM series come with 4 HDMI inputs? I thought they only had 1, and the OSD looks differnet then the LVM series menu too.

Just look at the model number on the back of the TV and see what it says.

Thread is awesome, responses are great and I'm hoping to get help on an issue I'm having. So I just recently got a 42' LCD (TX-42F430S), which I'm absolutely loving. One problem I've encountered, though, is with my Xbox 360. Everything seems to work fine, game-wise; however, when watching DVD's, I'm constantly getting a "No Input Signal" message. Some DVDs work, but some don't. I'm currently hooked up via component cables. I've tried to lower the resolution on the xbox, and while that seems to let some DVD's play, it's inevitable that the message will pop up eventually. Anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking of getting a VGA connection in hopes that it may cure the issue, but I don't want to encounter the same problems.
I had a similar issue with my Comcast HD DVR, where it would say "No input signal" when I turned the TV on or changed to the input with my DVR on it. I exchanged the TV for that and some other issues, and the new set hasn't had the issue. If you are still within your exchange time-frame, you may want to consider exchanging it for a new one. Do you have other issues, or just this one?

I think this has been discussed, but I don't know if there's a solution.

The sound setting for my set is mono. It's greyed out so the setting cannot be changed. Anyone else have this problem?

Might be that the source is mono (cable channel perhaps). I know that my HDMI 1 audio jacks only work in mono (the red one doesn't work), but I use a stereo receiver anyway so it just gave me the incentive to make a direct connection.

Thanks unclben, that is what I was looking at so in theory it's at 1080p but the source is 720p. Ok I think I understand now.....yeah not really, but I do..

Alex, I am pretty sure the one I have is the TX, did the LVM series come with 4 HDMI inputs? I thought they only had 1, and the OSD looks differnet then the LVM series menu too.

If it has 4 HDMI then it should be a TX series, please check out the serial on the back and let us know.

Thanks,

Alex

I had a similar issue with my Comcast HD DVR, where it would say "No input signal" when I turned the TV on or changed to the input with my DVR on it. I exchanged the TV for that and some other issues, and the new set hasn't had the issue. If you are still within your exchange time-frame, you may want to consider exchanging it for a new one. Do you have other issues, or just this one?

It's the only issue I've had so far. When watching DVD's on the 360, some DVD's work; others lead to the "No Input Signal." I think it has something to do with the output on the 360 and/or the connection (composite); I've tinkered around a bit with the settings, but ultimately it leads to the same thing. Any reason why some DVD's might work whereas others don't? And do you think a VGA might work? I can return it if need be, but hopefully there's an easy fix...

It's the only issue I've had so far. When watching DVD's on the 360, some DVD's work; others lead to the "No Input Signal." I think it has something to do with the output on the 360 and/or the connection (composite); I've tinkered around a bit with the settings, but ultimately it leads to the same thing. Any reason why some DVD's might work whereas others don't? And do you think a VGA might work? I can return it if need be, but hopefully there's an easy fix...

I would try the Xbox on another input and see if it works any better.

I would try the Xbox on another input and see if it works any better.

Actually, the AV cables work fine, with a drop off in the quality though. I'm thinking the TV has trouble accepting the signal via composite, not sure why though, or maybe it's my xbox. I guess I'll try a VGA cable and see if that works.

When you say composite, you mean red/white/yellow rca cables, right? And "AV" is component (red/blue/green)? The component cables should be higher quality than the composite cable.

Might be that the source is mono (cable channel perhaps). I know that my HDMI 1 audio jacks only work in mono (the red one doesn't work), but I use a stereo receiver anyway so it just gave me the incentive to make a direct connection.

Interesting. I never thought to check my HDMI audio jack. In any case, I have the problem with all inputs even tho I'm getting stereo sound (and 5.1 sound for digital HD) but still no stereo/subwoofer option. I'm starting to think it's as useful as the DVI and PIP buttons on the remote.

I've noticed something interesting with my lazy image update problem. Say there's an image on the screen that then fades to black, like opening the menu during movie playback on the PS3 over DVI. The image is shadowed onto the black in light grays. However, I ran the pong screensaver on my XBMC Xbox, which is bright white lines moving over a solid black background. They SHOULD trail, but they don't, nice clean black background even after they move. The Xbox is over component. Also, the TVs menus don't leave this effect. My only conclusion is that it's an HDMI-Only problem, as I've experienced it across the PS3 and two computers over DVI-HDMI. Darkening the image seems to make the problem less evident to unnoticeable. Switching sources and going back shows the ghost image to still be there. It's definitely annoying, but very confusing.

I got 2 issues with this tv. I have the 42" with firmware from June.

I have audio and pic sync problem when I watch 1080i tv shows. I have comcast cable and using the internal tuner.

Also, when I watch movies or tv shows with a black bars and the scene changes, all the blacks on the screen would dim down to a darker black. Anyone have same problems? Thanks.

Try turning off dynamic contrast, it's in the video calibration menu. Also, manually change your black level. Oddly, my "ghosting" problem is only there every other two black levels. I changed it slightly and it's a nice, clean-changing image.

I definitely will be keeping this set. Great once you get it set up right. ^_^

Two dead pixels and that white/pink vertical line running down the left side on a couple HD channels that was caused by the 1:1 pixel mapping. Currently testing out a LG 42LB5D and if that one doesn't work I'm going to try out the Aquos. This is getting exhausting...

You'll see that white/pink line on NBC-HD on any tv that does 1:1. That's caused by the broadcaster, not by Westinghouse - 1:1 mapping is a *good* thing. Two dead pixels - dead or stuck? Can you see them from more than a foot away?

Ed

hmm I've posted before but for me on NBC, there's mild sparkling vs a thin light on the extreme left..probably about 1-2mm thick

Of course, I wouldn't be watching through this input if I wasn't having huge HDMI handshake problems with the Toshiba HD-A20 HD DVD player. Grrrrrr. Someday, somehow, I'll be able to see an actual 1080p picture on this.

Same here. Makes me angry that I spent the extra money on the A20 for no reason.

Has anybody with the original firmware had any luck getting westinghouse to send someone out to update it?

I purchased a HDMI -> DVI for my Westy TX42 ( monster cable, quality is not a question). It's using the 5112_1.3.0 June build, and I can't get my text to focus. My red text looks very saturated and blurry, I'm trying to figure out if I should exchange the TV?

Has anybody with the original firmware had any luck getting westinghouse to send someone out to update it?

Nothing but runaround. My PS3 still flickers randomly over HDMI for about the first 5-10 minutes of playing a game. Sucks when you're trying to fly a Warhawk or score a goal in NHL 2k8.

After a whole bunch of lurking and that recent BB sale, I went and dropped the money on the Westy. It's been bitter sweet to say the least. First set I had, the audio occasionally popped at random. In addition to that, the PQ would intermittently go from crystal clear to blocky.

Now, this second set is doing something really odd. I'm using my PS3 for HD content, and I was playing the Beside You In Time BD and the PS3 is outputting it as 1080i. The last television set was outputting it at 1080p, like it was intended. All games that can run at 1080p are fine and I don't have any other BD movies for me to see if it's doing it across all movies in Blu-Ray format.

Both sets have the June Firmware. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

After a whole bunch of lurking and that recent BB sale, I went and dropped the money on the Westy. It's been bitter sweet to say the least. First set I had, the audio occasionally popped at random. In addition to that, the PQ would intermittently go from crystal clear to blocky.

Now, this second set is doing something really odd. I'm using my PS3 for HD content, and I was playing the Beside You In Time BD and the PS3 is outputting it as 1080i. The last television set was outputting it at 1080p, like it was intended. All games that can run at 1080p are fine and I don't have any other BD movies for me to see if it's doing it across all movies in Blu-Ray format.

Both sets have the June Firmware. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!


How is it connected to the TV? HDMI?

At this point I'd pick a different TV if I had to do it over again. I wish I could take it back but it has been too long.

Nothing but runaround. My PS3 still flickers randomly over HDMI for about the first 5-10 minutes of playing a game. Sucks when you're trying to fly a Warhawk or score a goal in NHL 2k8.

Did they make you sit there screwing with HDMI and powering on/off plugging/unplugging devices for an hour trying to make it work?

Hi All,

In about a week I will have the Westinghouse (TX-47F430S) and a XBOX 360 HD-DVD add-on.

I'm new to HDTV's and HD-DVD's.

Does the XBOX 360 HD-DVD add-on do 1080p ? (Via Component, VGA, Both?)
What cable would I need for it?

Should I still use my old Up-Converting DVD Player ( LG - DV7832NXC with Faroudja ) for normal DVD's ? Right now I use component cables and some DVD's are upconverted. Or would the add-on be better?

Thanks.

Did they make you sit there screwing with HDMI and powering on/off plugging/unplugging devices for an hour trying to make it work?

They started to, but I didn't want to go through the hassle. Besides, it goes away after it flips out for about 5 minutes, so I just deal with it. Maybe someday I'll call BB and exercise my warranty on it. Maybe not though, the wife was already fed up with the exchange of the 42w2 that I had to do. :eek:

How is it connected to the TV? HDMI?

At this point I'd pick a different TV if I had to do it over again. I wish I could take it back but it has been too long.

Yeah, it's hooked up via HDMI. Found another problem with it too when I was trying to figure out what the problem could be. When I touched the face buttons on the TV while using the HDMI inputs, the sound would completely cut out for a moment, and then fade back in while crackling.

I mean, for the price, it's an ok set.... if it worked. I was really warming up to my first set until it took this downward spiral of brokenness :(.

Hi All,

In about a week I will have the Westinghouse (TX-47F430S) and a XBOX 360 HD-DVD add-on.

I'm new to HDTV's and HD-DVD's.

Does the XBOX 360 HD-DVD add-on do 1080p ? (Via Component, VGA, Both?)
What cable would I need for it?

Should I still use my old Up-Converting DVD Player ( LG - DV7832NXC with Faroudja ) for normal DVD's ? Right now I use component cables and some DVD's are upconverted. Or would the add-on be better?

Thanks.


I recently purchases this 42in westinghouse from bb last month. I upgraded from a 37 olevia.

360 addon does 1080p via hdmi and vga. You would need an hdmi cable or a vga cable.

If you use any of these cables, then the 360 will also upconvert dvd's.

I am a tad frustrated at the lack of a fw update for this tv line. The usb port is there for a reason. I am kind of regretting going with the westy..I will be happy if they release an update soon.

okay, new user here...just wanted to report my results.

I had the TV for 3 months, always with the energy saver off...as soon as I unplugged the monitor for the first time to move it, I got lock up issues. With the TV not displaying anything beyond the startup "W". Hard boot, soft boot, nothing worked.

I replaced the TV, and the new unit had the same problem within 3 hours of use.

I'm done with this TV!

I was playing doom 3 on my 42" with geforce 7900gs through dvi-hdmi. When there would be bright images and then go to black you could still see a black silouette of the bright images. Kind of like a ghost image. It would go bright again but as long as it was a dark background you could see it. Also windows doesn't look like it's being 1:1 mapped. Any suggestions? Thanks

Just picked up my 42" Westy from Best Buy today, $1000-ish with the sale and then 12% off coupon (2 years no interest financing, woo!) I gotta say, I am amazed. I read through pretty much every page in this article and was scared mostly of the firmware update, HDCP/HDMI problems, and black levels. Went into Best Buy, hooked up my 360 and played some Halo 3 to get an idea between this and a few other TVs.
Overall, I thought this was the best for the money. Size of the TV is great, picture is wonderful on HD sources (all LCD TVs do a pretty bad job with SD material, unless you have an expensive Sony that does some major help with the upscaling) and, even though this is just a perk, the TV menu and its options are pretty awesome; you have a lot to tweak and it has a nice layout. Haven't encountered any sound problems since I go directly from my consoles optical out to my receiver. Haven't had any problems with scan lines, dead pixels, nor any issues with ghosting. The only thing I get is that twitchy, bouncing white line at the very top of the TV if you turn off the deinterlacing filter; I simply don't turn it off since it does not noticeably make a difference on the picture.
Luckily I have the September firmware on mine and haven't had any problems yet with random crashes, start-up issues, or whatever.
PS3/360 looks fantastic, 360 using component and PS3 on HDMI. Blu-Ray looks terrific.
For the amount of quality you get from this TV, for the price, it's worth it. When I walked into Best Buy and looked at this TV, next to the other dozens of TVs, it's a tough decision; constantly looking between this, the LG, this, the Samsung, this, the Panasonic, this, the Pioneer, etc... Taking this TV back home, tuning it and messing around with the options, and it looks terrific. I highly recommend this TV.

I was playing doom 3 on my 42" with geforce 7900gs through dvi-hdmi. When there would be bright images and then go to black you could still see a black silouette of the bright images. Kind of like a ghost image. It would go bright again but as long as it was a dark background you could see it. Also windows doesn't look like it's being 1:1 mapped. Any suggestions? Thanks

Once you get the game running, pause it, then turn off the set and turn it back on. You should be fine then.

Later,

Alex

Thanks for your reply alex. I'll try that. Though I did try the adjusting the black levels to 48 and it seemed to get rid of the black that would happen when i looked at my desktop wallpaper and then went to an all black web page. I just haven't checked my doom3 to see if it fixed that yet.

Just exchanged for my 2nd Westinghouse. 1st one had audio sync issues on NBC 1080i. This one has 2 to 3 pixel of yellow bar on the left of screen and signal drops out now an then on NBC 1080i. This one has a Sept. 7 build. It has an offical service port that says "Service Port". Man, this LCD sucks! Anyone with same issues?

(TX-42 here, by the way.)

Well here's something. That big problem with deinterlacing a 1080i signal over component? Where a flickering purple line appears at the very bottom of the screen? It suddenly disappeared. I went back and forth a few times, and the image definitely still shifts a bit higher with deinterlacing turned on...but over the same connection as before, with the same HD DVD player, what once was bright flickering purple is now just a black line at the bottom of the screen. The pixels still function properly, there hasn't been a firmware update with anything, and this state of affairs remains the same after cycling the power on everything. I'm confused but delighted.

(Of course, I'm keeping around the narrow strip of black construction paper I was using as a stopgap solution before (hey, it works). More bulletins to come on whether it goes back to "normal.")

Another thing: I've definitely developed, or maybe just finally noticed, those clicking noises when powering on or off that have been mentioned a couple of times here. They sound kind of alarming, largely because I don't have any decent guess as to what's causing them, but nothing seems to have been affected with the actual performance. Except for the above, of course, and wouldn't that be a bitter irony if something deciding to work properly was a sign that the TV was about to die.

Just exchanged for my 2nd Westinghouse. 1st one had audio sync issues on NBC 1080i. This one has 2 to 3 pixel of yellow bar on the left of screen and signal drops out now an then on NBC 1080i. This one has a Sept. 7 build. It has an offical service port that says "Service Port". Man, this LCD sucks! Anyone with same issues?

The yellow bar is normal. It's in the NBC signal.

I got my TX-47 today and cant get any picture.

Tried my cable box and dvd player using component and composite cables.

Just says "no input signal".

Any ideas?

I got my TX-47 today and cant get any picture.

Tried my cable box and dvd player using component and composite cables.

Just says "no input signal".

Any ideas?

To me sounds like a bum TV. Especially just using component or composite. It should just work. No handshaking issues with HDCP.

Can somebody post a horizontal measurement of the base portion of the TX-47? I mean the pedestal part that physically sits on a TV stand. I'm OK with the TV hanging over the edges of a stand, but I want to make sure the pedestal itself fits on the stand I already have, or if I have to buy a new stand before I buy the TV.

To me sounds like a bum TV. Especially just using component or composite. It should just work. No handshaking issues with HDCP.

Well, I got it to work, unplugged it from the power bar and went directly to the wall outlet.

DVD plays, but it seems to loose connection for a split second off and on.

Can somebody post a horizontal measurement of the base portion of the TX-47? I mean the pedestal part that physically sits on a TV stand. I'm OK with the TV hanging over the edges of a stand, but I want to make sure the pedestal itself fits on the stand I already have, or if I have to buy a new stand before I buy the TV.

the stand is 25 inches long

(TX-42 here, by the way.)

Well here's something. That big problem with deinterlacing a 1080i signal over component? Where a flickering purple line appears at the very bottom of the screen? It suddenly disappeared. ... More bulletins to come on whether it goes back to "normal."

Well, it's the next day now, and it's gone right back to the purple line. If only I knew what magical confluence of humidity, cable coiling and/or chicken sacrifice made this act perfectly for one afternoon.

You know what I'm really tempted to do? This line is seriously thin—one pixel high—and the only reason it annoys is that it's very bright and flickers madly. I'm really tempted to just take a thin Sharpie and run it across the screen at the very bottom. Is there any particularly alarming reason why this would be a terrible idea? (And would it even block that light effectively?)

Thanks for your reply alex. I'll try that. Though I did try the adjusting the black levels to 48 and it seemed to get rid of the black that would happen when i looked at my desktop wallpaper and then went to an all black web page. I just haven't checked my doom3 to see if it fixed that yet.

Your Welcome, did it make a difference? I get the weird artifacting/ghosting with my 360 sometimes and that is what I do to fix it. It's like a refresh issue or something.

Later,

Alex

Well, it's the next day now, and it's gone right back to the purple line. If only I knew what magical confluence of humidity, cable coiling and/or chicken sacrifice made this act perfectly for one afternoon.

You know what I'm really tempted to do? This line is seriously thin—one pixel high—and the only reason it annoys is that it's very bright and flickers madly. I'm really tempted to just take a thin Sharpie and run it across the screen at the very bottom. Is there any particularly alarming reason why this would be a terrible idea? (And would it even block that light effectively?)


Hahahahah! I suggested someone do this as a joke... but seriously you have to be whacked to take a sharpie to your screen. You'd no longer have a 1080p tv... you'd have a 1078p TV... and only chumps have that.

Hahahahah! I suggested someone do this as a joke... but seriously you have to be whacked to take a sharpie to your screen. You'd no longer have a 1080p tv... you'd have a 1078p TV... and only chumps have that.
I agree. Also, I don't think it would block the light.

When I get the line at the top it's because an image overlay (eg the box that tells you what channel and signal type) has appeared. If I then cycle through the aspect ratios (fill, overscan, standard) it causes the line to disappear... until the next image overlay (eg channel or input change, or switching from 1080i to 480p or something causes the info box to reappear). Another aspect cycle fixes again. I've no idea if that'd fix the line at the bottom of the screen; I don't see that.

Hahahahah! I suggested someone do this as a joke... but seriously you have to be whacked to take a sharpie to your screen. You'd no longer have a 1080p tv... you'd have a 1078p TV... and only chumps have that.

Dude, I could care less if I miss out on one scan line at the very bottom of the screen. I'm already missing out on it anyway. I think I crossed the "chump" line when I figured buying the cheapest 1080p out there was an idea that couldn't fail. Thanks for the belligerence, though.

If I then cycle through the aspect ratios (fill, overscan, standard) it causes the line to disappear ... I've no idea if that'd fix the line at the bottom of the screen; I don't see that.

That doesn't work for me, sad to say; I've tried absolutely everything and there's no solving this outside of a firmware update (or so I thought until it fixed itself for a single day...talk about frustrating). Thanks for the suggestion, though.

I've just purchased a TX-42F430S and notice that using my XBOX360 over VGA (@1920x1080) both in games also with the HDVD player there is a very noticeable judder - it's very apparent when turning or moving forward in games such as Oblivion, Halo3, Orange Box, Bioshock- this is not the 2second stutter/crawl afaik.

I've read every post in this thread too - and from what I remember no one else has raised this. (I've put the TV in eSaver mode as recommended, this did nothing)

I connected the 360 up to my computer monitor and validated it's clearly not related to the cable or the 360.

Any ideas?

I've just purchased a TX-42F430S and notice that using my XBOX360 over VGA (@1920x1080) both in games also with the HDVD player there is a very noticeable judder - it's very apparent when turning or moving forward in games such as Oblivion, Halo3, Orange Box, Bioshock- this is not the 2second stutter/crawl afaik.

I've read every post in this thread too - and from what I remember no one else has raised this.

I connected the 360 up to my computer monitor and validated it's clearly not related to the cable or the 360.

Any ideas?


I have my 360 connected via component at 1080p and have never noticed this. I have the 47"

It's fine over component at 1080p for games, and movies now at 1080i

But the HDVD player doesn't do 1080p or upscale over component only over VGA.

I've also tried the reboot, this didn't work.

Well, it's the next day now, and it's gone right back to the purple line. If only I knew what magical confluence of humidity, cable coiling and/or chicken sacrifice made this act perfectly for one afternoon.

You know what I'm really tempted to do? This line is seriously thin—one pixel high—and the only reason it annoys is that it's very bright and flickers madly. I'm really tempted to just take a thin Sharpie and run it across the screen at the very bottom. Is there any particularly alarming reason why this would be a terrible idea? (And would it even block that light effectively?)

I have the same purple line, using a Motorola HD-PVR 6208

did anyone actually buy the 52" model yet?

I got the TX-42F430S a few weeks ago from BB Canada. I like its plethora of inputs (4 HDMI!) and ability to pass 5.1 from my HDMI sources. It's got a pretty good picture for the money (Transformers & Planet Earth look fantastic), and to my surprise ZERO dead pixels!

Sadly, since the start there have been some HDMI handling issues. I have my Thinkpad hooked up with a DVI-HDMI cable and a XBOX 360 on HDMI. Sometimes when I switch from OTA to HDMI, it reports "No Input" when clearly either the xbox or laptop is turned on and plugged in. At first a quick ATI driver update on my Thinkpad seemed to fix it, but other times it happens again out of the blue (either laptop or xbox). This issue is hard to reproduce as it seems to happen whenever it wants to. I'll try to keep a better track of what I'm doing when it happens.

Also I had it freeze on me twice without a picture where I had to unplug the set from the power bar to 'unstuck' it.

Luckily I'm still within my 30-day window for a refund, so maybe I can try a different set...

The 42" is plagued with problems. They should do a recall.

I've gone throuh 2 already. 1st one, picture and audio sync issues. 2nd one, thin yellow line on left of screen. 3rd times a charm. The Sept. set is different from the June set in the back. They've swap the vga with the service port's side and service port is not covered up anymore. It actually says service port and not covered.

I'm also looking at the Ensignia 42" 1080p too, but it doen't have a QAM tuner. Is that a big deal? I using comcast with no box.

I think I'm actually gonna sell this set. Had a good run with it, but the lack of firmware updates and poor black levels have me looking at the Samsung 5271. Its a shame, because im sure the unit is capable of producing an even better picture than it has now. I'm just not waiting around for that to happen any longer.

Does anyone have problems with "Freezing". The picture still shows but you cant access any buttons either on the TV or the remote. It takes holding down the power button for 5 secs or so to reset it.

Is there sound when you use only the RF cable?

I think I have one dead pixel, is that a concern for return?

I think I'm actually gonna sell this set. Had a good run with it, but the lack of firmware updates and poor black levels have me looking at the Samsung 5271. Its a shame, because im sure the unit is capable of producing an even better picture than it has now. I'm just not waiting around for that to happen any longer.

i'd been thinking about that too but then again it'd be my first time selling a TV...craigslist? ebay?

I have the TX-47F4305. I have had a problem with the optical SPDIF output. I know from the thread that it seems to be outputting PCM rather than 5.1, but my issue is a little different. I have tried to output the sound to my Denon AVR-787, using every setting on the TV and Denon humanly possible. The optical cable has the red light of a signal, and the Denon recognizes a PCM signal-but I get zero sound from either my cable box or Oppo DVD, both of which are connected by HDMI. (I have set the TV audio ouput to both "external" and "mixed", have turned the TV volume up, and HDMI set to "digital"). Yet, if I use the same optical ouput using a simple antenna for the "TV" setting tuning to an over the air digital channel, it works fine! I have debated wheter this is an issue with the Westinghouse or the Denon. I have assumed that it has something to do with the HDMI, but don't really know. I have another AV receiver, but don't want to unhook all the connections and lug it across the house to test if it the reciever or TV. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.

Does anyone have problems with "Freezing". The picture still shows but you cant access any buttons either on the TV or the remote. It takes holding down the power button for 5 secs or so to reset it.


About once per week on average for the 6 months or so I've had the tv.

It's fine over component at 1080p for games, and movies now at 1080i

But the HDVD player doesn't do 1080p or upscale over component only over VGA.

I've also tried the reboot, this didn't work.

I've confirmed the problem. The issue a slight 'judder' or missed frame is also apparent for ALL progressive resolutions when outputting from the 360.

(Hence why the VGA output is affected)

1080i over component is not affected.

My Wii and original XBOX appear fine.

This points to an issue either with the xbox360 or the xbox360 when combined with the Westinghouse.

(I noted that usuing my original CRT computer monitor over VGA, there is no issue)

Now - what do I do with this?

I've confirmed the problem. The issue a slight 'judder' or missed frame is also apparent for ALL progressive resolutions when outputting from the 360.

(Hence why the VGA output is affected)

1080i over component is not affected.

My Wii and original XBOX appear fine.

This points to an issue either with the xbox360 or the xbox360 when combined with the Westinghouse.

(I noted that usuing my original CRT computer monitor over VGA, there is no issue)

Now - what do I do with this?

Unplug the TV and plug it back in, it does go away.

I mentioned this waaaaaay back when i got the TV in June. Using E. Saver makes the TV reboot as well. Reboot 2 or 3 times if needed and the skip will fix itself. Its very noticable on games like Guitar Hero when you get it.

Does anyone have problems with "Freezing". The picture still shows but you cant access any buttons either on the TV or the remote. It takes holding down the power button for 5 secs or so to reset it.
I had that issue with my first set. I returned it and got another with the same June firmware, and this one hasn't had the issue yet. I've had it for a couple of weeks now with no issues (knock on wood).

Unplug the TV and plug it back in, it does go away.

I mentioned this waaaaaay back when i got the TV in June. Using E. Saver makes the TV reboot as well. Reboot 2 or 3 times if needed and the skip will fix itself. Its very noticable on games like Guitar Hero when you get it.

I did read that in your thread and have tried the unplugging and rebooting. (I've not tried rebooting 2 or 3 times - this seems excessive, but willing to try) - thank you!

I question though shouldn't I see it with the Wii's ticker at 480p, or the ticker in XBMC at all resolutions 720p 480p etc - I don't.

Is this just a 360 timing issue?

Will give it another go later today.

I've confirmed the problem. The issue a slight 'judder' or missed frame is also apparent for ALL progressive resolutions when outputting from the 360.

(Hence why the VGA output is affected)

1080i over component is not affected.

My Wii and original XBOX appear fine.

This points to an issue either with the xbox360 or the xbox360 when combined with the Westinghouse.

(I noted that usuing my original CRT computer monitor over VGA, there is no issue)

Now - what do I do with this?

My 360 Elite (HDMI) and Wii (component) do not give me any issues but my PS3 (HDMI) has a noticeable screen shake in the XMB. Not present in movies -- thank goodness or the set would have been returned by now, shows up in some 1080p games.

I have unplugged it and used the e.saver with no changes. I have the September 3 firmware. My buddy has the older June firmware but has no problems. I've also tried different cables and different HDMI ports with no luck. I'm leaning towards there being an issue with my PS3 versus the set because the other consoles work fine.

Later,

Alex

I have the TX-47F4305. I have had a problem with the optical SPDIF output. The optical cable has the red light of a signal, and the Denon recognizes a PCM signal-but I get zero sound from either my cable box or Oppo DVD, both of which are connected by HDMI. (I have set the TV audio ouput to both "external" and "mixed", have turned the TV volume up, and HDMI set to "digital"). Yet, if I use the same optical ouput using a simple antenna for the "TV" setting tuning to an over the air digital channel, it works fine!This has been confirmed by several people, myself included (using Xbox 360). The first firmware (April 2007, IIRC) allowed audio from HDMI to pass through the TV and out via S/PDIF. Later firmwares, like mine (June 2007), disabled this function, ostensibly to comply with the HDCP standard. This is yet another way in which the media companies are screwing us with DRM.

Thanks. I also have the June firmware. I had sent an e-mail to Westinghouse Digital support, but they did not mention that. It seems completely absurd. Why bother with the SPDIF at all? Anyway, thanks. I was looking for some bizarre combination of settings that would make this work, and I guess I know why I never found it.

Does anyone have problems with "Freezing". The picture still shows but you cant access any buttons either on the TV or the remote. It takes holding down the power button for 5 secs or so to reset it.

Is there sound when you use only the RF cable?

I think I have one dead pixel, is that a concern for return?

I have had the freezing thing 4 times in about 45 days, and a couple of times, it was preceded by stuttering audio. I have a Vista Media Center PC with build in HDMI on the motherboard, and a Motorola DCH6416 also hooked through HDMI. On many occasions, when I have switched between the two, I lose the audio signal. The only fix is to either power off the Motorola or to close Media Center and reopen it.

Also, someone a few posts back mentioned passing 5.1 audio. If I have my spdif out hooked to my surround sound, I get no audio from either device hooked to HDMI. If I switch to regular TV or connect my PC to an analog input, the sound is passed from the TV to surround sound using spdif. Is this normal behavior? The guy at BB thought it might be a poor quality HDMI cable, so he offered to sell me a 6' HDMI cable for over $50.00--No thanks. He did also try and explain that older surround sound systems can't do this. Is that true? I do have an older Samsung HT-DM150 DVD Surround System.

Edit: I see the by the time I started typing my post, and finally finishing it after an hour or so that the previous poster has the same spdif out problem that I have seen.

Do you suppose we can go to the older firmware somehow?

I did read that in your thread and have tried the unplugging and rebooting. (I've not tried rebooting 2 or 3 times - this seems excessive, but willing to try) - thank you!

I question though shouldn't I see it with the Wii's ticker at 480p, or the ticker in XBMC at all resolutions 720p 480p etc - I don't.

Is this just a 360 timing issue?

Will give it another go later today.

Rebooting multiple times had no effect on this judder for the xbox360.

Does anyone else find it strange that our Westy has a timer, and in settings asks for our time zone but no clock (and by extension alarm)?

Does anyone else find it strange that our Westy has a timer, and in settings asks for our time zone but no clock (and by extension alarm)?

yes strange indeed :confused:

Wanted to report my experience with the HD-A3 HD DVD player since I haven't noticed any other accounts. First, my TV info:

Software version: 5110_1.1.0
Build-on date: 2007 April 13

Toshiba HD-A3 HD DVD player over HDMI and component (YPbPr)

[1080i] Looks amazing, but had serious flickering issues over HDMI. Periodically the screen would go black for a half-second or so, the same issue others have reported with the PlayStation 3 and this TV. The problem was chronic when plugged into the HDMI4 port on the TV, less frequent on HDMI2 and HDMI1 but still often enough to make discs completely unwatchable. This is disappointing but perhaps a future firmware update to the player will help (I'm using HD-A3 firmware 1.1).

I switched to a component connection to sidestep the flickering. The picture looks slightly softer than over HDMI but since the player only outputs 1080i anyway the difference is negligible. Over component I am now seeing the flickering purple line at the bottom of the screen that others have reported. Turning off "deinterlace" in the TV's settings eliminates the purple line but causes a gray line at the bottom for HDMI sources. My low-tech solution will be a strip of electrical tape to cover up the bottom 1-2 pixels of the display.


Also added to my gigantic post of everything I've thrown at this set (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10978529&postcount=1410).

Wanted to report my experience with the HD-A3 HD DVD player since I haven't noticed any other accounts. First, my TV info:

Software version: 5110_1.1.0
Build-on date: 2007 April 13

Toshiba HD-A3 HD DVD player over HDMI and component (YPbPr)

[1080i] Looks amazing, but had serious flickering issues over HDMI. Periodically the screen would go black for a half-second or so, the same issue others have reported with the PlayStation 3 and this TV. The problem was chronic when plugged into the HDMI4 port on the TV, less frequent on HDMI2 and HDMI1 but still often enough to make discs completely unwatchable. This is disappointing but perhaps a future firmware update to the player will help (I'm using HD-A3 firmware 1.1).

I switched to a component connection to sidestep the flickering. The picture looks slightly softer than over HDMI but since the player only outputs 1080i anyway the difference is negligible. Over component I am now seeing the flickering purple line at the bottom of the screen that others have reported. Turning off "deinterlace" in the TV's settings eliminates the purple line but causes a gray line at the bottom for HDMI sources. My low-tech solution will be a strip of electrical tape to cover up the bottom 1-2 pixels of the display.


Also added to my gigantic post of everything I've thrown at this set (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10978529&postcount=1410).

I've had two TX47s. The first one had the flickering problem, but the second one hasn't flickered once. It's nothing that any A3 firmware is going to fix, and you can forget about Westinghouse updating theirs. Its a hardware issue.

Hoping someone can help.

I have been running this TV from my computer on HDMI 2 with a desktop size of 1080p. No problem whatsoever. But when I try to display the 720p resolution of 1280x720, The TV indicates it has no input. Either on 59Hz or 60 Hz, the tv says No Signal until I switch it back to 1080p. Other resolutions work, such as 1024x768, or 1280x1024. What gives? I see several people say they have tried 720p with no problems..

Just exchanged for my 2nd Westinghouse. 1st one had audio sync issues on NBC 1080i. This one has 2 to 3 pixel of yellow bar on the left of screen and signal drops out now an then on NBC 1080i. This one has a Sept. 7 build. It has an offical service port that says "Service Port". Man, this LCD sucks! Anyone with same issues?

Dude, that yellow bar is NBC, not the TV. You will see that on any 1080p set. Audio sync may or may not be at their end.

Ed

Dude, that yellow bar is NBC, not the TV. You will see that on any 1080p set. Audio sync may or may not be at their end.

Ed

My first set didn't have the yellow line on the left on NBC 1080i at all. My now second set has that yellow annoying line but, no audio sync problems.

Did we ever get more info about the screen shake issue with the PS3 and the Westinghouse TX sets?

Later,

Alex

I have had the TX-42 since Oct 13th 2007 and am now on my second TV. The first unit was actually very good (it was the June build) with only two issues.

One is a strange incompatibility with my Panasonic dvd surround sound (SC-HT830) when using 480P output. This one I wasn't too worried about since I planned to upgrade in the future anyway and 480i looked nearly as good.

The second was unfortunately the reason it went back. It simply would not turn on one morning. I tried everything and no matter what I did, it would not come on beyond showing the W for a few seconds. I have the service plan from BB so i called and they acted like it would be a week, so i exchanged it instead because I paid $1200 for a TV and it should work whenever I want to watch it...

The second set is a piece of crap, point blank. It has horrible motion blur on coax and component regardless of quality level including HD channels. BTW, the motion blur isn't an issue on fast moving items because I expect that, what I am talking about above is on slow moving items, like Conan shifting his weight from one foot to the other... Both sources also have a ghosting that is very visible both to the left and right of things on screen. As long as the picture isn't moving, its great in HD but once it moves, its awful. Further, I have noticed that on HD channels the sound echos very noticeably on many commercials (this could be the commercials i guess...). I also noticed that the subwoofer has been deleted from the set for the August builds. They did however add several settings that do very little... Also, the 480P issue with my surround sound is present on this set also, so not sure what is causing that. Finally, I cannot get it to display a 1920x1080 PC resolution no matter what I do. The first set would do so beautifully but this one won't even show the whole image on the screen even with adjustment on both the PC and the TV.

I know i want to return the second set but i'm worried the geek boys at BB will give me a hard time about returning two in less than 4 days...

So my questions are:
1. Do any of you see the blurring/ghosting like i'm describing?
2. Would you guys suggest returning for a third attempt or would you just give it up and move on? I really liked the first unit and was completely satisfied with it, but #2 is a flaming pile of dog feces.

Thanks!
Willum

I have had the TX-42 since Oct 13th 2007 and am now on my second TV. The first unit was actually very good (it was the June build) with only two issues.

One is a strange incompatibility with my Panasonic dvd surround sound (SC-HT830) when using 480P output. This one I wasn't too worried about since I planned to upgrade in the future anyway and 480i looked nearly as good.

The second was unfortunately the reason it went back. It simply would not turn on one morning. I tried everything and no matter what I did, it would not come on beyond showing the W for a few seconds. I have the service plan from BB so i called and they acted like it would be a week, so i exchanged it instead because I paid $1200 for a TV and it should work whenever I want to watch it...

The second set is a piece of crap, point blank. It has horrible motion blur on coax and component regardless of quality level including HD channels. BTW, the motion blur isn't an issue on fast moving items because I expect that, what I am talking about above is on slow moving items, like Conan shifting his weight from one foot to the other... Both sources also have a ghosting that is very visible both to the left and right of things on screen. As long as the picture isn't moving, its great in HD but once it moves, its awful. Further, I have noticed that on HD channels the sound echos very noticeably on many commercials (this could be the commercials i guess...). I also noticed that the subwoofer has been deleted from the set for the August builds. They did however add several settings that do very little... Also, the 480P issue with my surround sound is present on this set also, so not sure what is causing that. Finally, I cannot get it to display a 1920x1080 PC resolution no matter what I do. The first set would do so beautifully but this one won't even show the whole image on the screen even with adjustment on both the PC and the TV.

I know i want to return the second set but i'm worried the geek boys at BB will give me a hard time about returning two in less than 4 days...

So my questions are:
1. Do any of you see the blurring/ghosting like i'm describing?
2. Would you guys suggest returning for a third attempt or would you just give it up and move on? I really liked the first unit and was completely satisfied with it, but #2 is a flaming pile of dog feces.

Thanks!
Willum

My set is less than a month old. I see the ghosting. It's not so bad that I'd take it back. But your other problems... (by the way yours is the first posting I've read that acknowledges the subwoofer being a deleted option - I can't get mine out of mono) if you're not happy with the set, take it back and get your money. If you end up stuck with a set you don't like you're gonna be complaining forever.

So my questions are:
1. Do any of you see the blurring/ghosting like i'm describing?
2. Would you guys suggest returning for a third attempt or would you just give it up and move on? I really liked the first unit and was completely satisfied with it, but #2 is a flaming pile of dog feces.

Thanks!
Willum

I have never seen any ghosting or blurring. My set was from the first batch that came out.

If I could go back in time I'd buy a different tv. This set has many more issues than just the ones you mention.

I have never seen any ghosting or blurring. My set was from the first batch that came out.

If I could go back in time I'd buy a different tv. This set has many more issues than just the ones you mention.

Other than the rock bottom price, this TV has many issues and I also wish I bought something else now.

Then again, The Samsung 5271 wasn't out at that time when I bought it, but even that set has some issues. The black levels on this TV are killing me now.

If I never visited this forum, I would probably think my tv was much better than it is. Double edged sword, but in a good way.

same here...I may offer this to a friend who's looking for a budget ps3 TV...on that topic..to those with ps3's, have the firmware updates helped (provided mine is the april build)?

same here...I may offer this to a friend who's looking for a budget ps3 TV...on that topic..to those with ps3's, have the firmware updates helped (provided mine is the april build)?

No, I have a very subtle screen shake and I have the Sept. 3rd firmware on the TV and the 2.0 firmware for the PS3.

Funny thing is that my buddy has a June firmware TV with no shake.

Oh well, here is hoping we will get a firmware update before 08.

Later,

Alex

can anyone comment on this problem that i am having.

I got PS3, HTR -6090, and Westinghouse TX-47F430S. Everything is hooked up via HDMI. When i set ps3 to 1080p/24 my TV displays normal picture but TV says "No Signal", and the sign does not go away. Whats wrong here ?

I returned my second TX-42 today and exchanged it for a third unit. I brought it back and got the exact same results as the second TV. It still had more motion blur than the june FW and it also still had the ghosted image that was easily visible with the guide from my cable box. The june had nearly no blur, no ghosting and also still had the subwoofer which the sept on definitely has deleted.

Also, in case no one else has noticed, the board in the back has been changed from the june to sept units. the PC input and the service port have both switched to the oposite side from where they were.

The menu system is slightly different as well

My guess would be that the new board has a cheaper tuner that introduces the issues above. I also think it or the firmware has completely screwed up the PC input because I couldn't get it to switch to 1920X1080 unless i was willing to look at the screen with the picture shifted 4-5 inches to the right off the end of the monitor. So there was always a large black bar on the left side.

Can anyone here use the PC input at 1920x1080 with the sept firmware?

Just curious...

Thanks

Willum

I think I'm going to return my TX-42F430S and get something else on Black Friday. What a joke this set has turned out to be.

Just picked one up at Best Buy today. Great looking TV, picture and colors are excellent.

Here are my comments, no major problems, just minor gripes...

1. Channel surfing with Comcast Analog cable is very slow. There is a noticeable delay as you flip from channel to channel. When you flip to the next or previous channel, the screen goes black for a second, then audio comes up, then 2 seconds later, video comes up. Not that big a deal I guess, just annoying if you like to flip through the channels quickly.

2. There doesn't appear to be any way to custom label the channels, ie. ABC, MTV, VH1, etc.

3. No amplified RCA speaker output jacks on the back, unless I'm missing something. I would like to connect a set of floor speakers without using an external amplifier, but it appears there are only line level speaker outputs.

4. The Subwoofer can't be enabled in the menus, for some reason it's greyed out. Would be nice to actually use the sufwoofer, since it's there, but you can't have everything I guess.

All and all seems to be a pretty nice LCD. Remote is easy to operate. Can't beat the price...

anyone know if the 42 has hdmi 1.3?

I bought my Westinghouse TX-42F430S Nov. 5th. The picture is great and the sound WAS working fine until last night.

All of a sudden I can't get any sound via HDMI. Here are the details.

I'm using a SA 8300HD DVR from Cablevision as the tuner. AFAIK Cablevision does support HDMI audio. I've checked my settings on the 8300HD, I am set for digital audio out. I'm not sure what my firmware version is on the TX-42F430S, but the subwoofer option is grayed out (is there a way to enable the subwoofer?).

Audio from my DVD player to the set has also stopped working via HDMI. I have HDMI 1 audio set for digital.

Has anyone else had these issues?

I got PS3, HTR -6090, and Westinghouse TX-47F430S. Everything is hooked up via HDMI. When i set ps3 to 1080p/24 my TV displays normal picture but TV says "No Signal", and the sign does not go away. Whats wrong here ?
This is situation normal. Although the Westy supposedly supports 1080p/24, it doesn't seem to work properly with the PS3 - i.e. persistent No Signal message displayed on TV even though the picture comes through.

Unless this magically gets fixed by a future PS3 firmware revision or Westinghouse graces us with their own firmware fix, I think we're out of luck on this one. I'd be interested in hearing whether anyone has had any luck with another 1080p/24 capable HDM player.

I bought my Westinghouse TX-42F430S Nov. 5th. The picture is great and the sound WAS working fine until last night.

All of a sudden I can't get any sound via HDMI. Here are the details.

I'm using a SA 8300HD DVR from Cablevision as the tuner. AFAIK Cablevision does support HDMI audio. I've checked my settings on the 8300HD, I am set for digital audio out. I'm not sure what my firmware version is on the TX-42F430S, but the subwoofer option is grayed out (is there a way to enable the subwoofer?).

Audio from my DVD player to the set has also stopped working via HDMI. I have HDMI 1 audio set for digital.

Has anyone else had these issues?

I have the no audio problems about 4 times per week on both my Vista Media Center PC and my Motorola DCH6416. They are both hooked by HDMI and the only fix is to restart the VMC application or power cycle the DVR.

Any news on Westinghouse updating the firmware? These problems are getting ridiculous.

I returned my TX-42F430S today and got the Toshiba 42HL167. Wow, everything works! Do yourselves a favor and ditch this Westinghouse junk. The only real issue I could find anyone complaining about with the Toshiba 42HL167 is green push, and over 40% of those who responded to the poll on this site said they have no green push at all.

I returned my TX-42F430S today and got the Toshiba 42HL167. Wow, everything works! Do yourselves a favor and ditch this Westinghouse junk. The only real issue I could find anyone complaining about with the Toshiba 42HL167 is green push, and over 40% of those who responded to the poll on this site said they have no green push at all.

Had I known about the issues with this set before it was too late i'm sure I would've done that too..

Mine has been sitting here with the "No Input Signal" box overlayed over the screen since this morning. (didn't bother my wife enough to unplug it). Ugh. Damn POS.

This is situation normal. Although the Westy supposedly supports 1080p/24, it doesn't seem to work properly with the PS3 - i.e. persistent No Signal message displayed on TV even though the picture comes through.

Unless this magically gets fixed by a future PS3 firmware revision or Westinghouse graces us with their own firmware fix, I think we're out of luck on this one. I'd be interested in hearing whether anyone has had any luck with another 1080p/24 capable HDM player.

Interesting. I have a PS3 and I don't have this issue at all. Could it be the build of your firmware?

Interesting. I have a PS3 and I don't have this issue at all. Could it be the build of your firmware?


When the tv is in /24 mode does it say so? I'm trying to figure out if mine is working but I think it is falling back to just 1080p since that's all it says on the screen.

When the tv is in /24 mode does it say so? I'm trying to figure out if mine is working but I think it is falling back to just 1080p since that's all it says on the screen.

My TV does not indicate 24 mode. My PS3 was set to automatic so I set it to "on". I'm playing games no problem. Is this a movie watching issue or gameplay?

Geez...I was planning on buying this unit, the 47inch on black friday...but I'm hearing a lot of bad comments about it here. I'm getting pretty discouraged. I mean, I'm not exactly a video expert or videophile but I thought this tv would be a good deal for the price. Maybe not? Is ANYONE happy with this tv?

all these bad things to be said...I'm not sure what to buy on black friday now, this 47 inch westinghouse, or the 46 inch Sharp Aquos!!!

Alright, so I got the TV. It's very nice, but there's a few issues.

One, I cannot get 1920 x 1080 to work via VGA correctly. It's shifted over about 4 inches to the right and I can't fix it.

Two, I cannot get any stretch settings on vga to work via pc.

Third, there's no noise reduction setting.

Anyone know how to fix any of these?

Despite everyone's complaints I'm still happy with my TV. For the price it is an incredible deal.

In regards to the VGA not working correctly it is likely one of two things:

1 - Need to update video card drivers
2 - Need to change VGA cable

I have 1920x1080 on both VGA and HDMI and they are both spectacular (though HDMI is definitely sharper).

My primary use of this TV is a monitor, my wife's primary use is the internal tuner. I have gotten over all my small gripes and now just enjoy using my TV. I used this TV at my last LAN party and everyone was jealous (although they couldn't help but screen peek :))

I pop in here every once in a while to see if there are any firmware updates because I'd just like to tinker with the TV a little, but really there is not any issue that flat out makes we want to return the TV.

My TV does not indicate 24 mode. My PS3 was set to automatic so I set it to "on". I'm playing games no problem. Is this a movie watching issue or gameplay?
This is a movie watching issue - thus the reason it is under the BD/DVD settings menu on the PS3. When set to automatic it does not appear to be outputting 24 Hz, and when set to on it gets the "no signal" problem on the TX, but only while playing a movie disc.

EDIT: Regarding the discussion of satisfaction with the set, I am very happy with the TX-47. My PS3 1080/24 failure is only a minor nitpick and truthfully I am so used to 60 Hz judder that 24 Hz would probably look strange to me! I have had absolutely no other problems and while the PQ of the set can obviously be beat by newer LCD panels, I still think it was a good price/performance tradeoff for me personally.

Geez...I was planning on buying this unit, the 47inch on black friday...but I'm hearing a lot of bad comments about it here. I'm getting pretty discouraged. I mean, I'm not exactly a video expert or videophile but I thought this tv would be a good deal for the price. Maybe not? Is ANYONE happy with this tv?

I would love to know this also. Best Buy has this TV (42 inch version) on for under $1000, and I was considering it.

I am looking for a 42 inch flat panel (LCD or Plasma) for less than a thousand. I was thinking that I would have to settle for 720p until I saw this unit.

Is there anyone happy with this tv? I know it is a bargain tv, so is not going to be as good as many more expensive tv's, but I cannot spend more than a grand.

I am 100% happy with this tv. Dont read into the negative comments on avsforum that much. Nobody here is happy with there tv it seem. I have no ps3 handshaking issues or ghosting or locking up or anything like that. Very solid tv with a stunning hd picture.

I like my TX-47 other then the sound popping over HDMI which does bother me. To be honest I probably would have picked up a sharp 46" for a couple of hundred more at the time now.

for me even now..the only alternatives at the time were the samsung 61f and 65f which were closer to 2k..prices have dropped now so that the differences are about equal to a ps3. The sharp and toshiba's AFAIK have issues with VGA so even now they're still not viable alternatives. The LG would probably have been my other choice but I don't believe it was at BB at the time or was in the price range of the samsungs.

Does anyone know if there's a noise reduction setting?

The sound issues, lack of PIP are all things that are kinda annoying, but the size and picture clarity (OTA HDTV, PS3, Blu Ray and HDDVD) for the price makes me thrilled.

If I was given a chance to return my TV or sell it for a great price, I'd get rid of my TX47. Watching either HDDVD on the 360 or BR on the PS3, I get random flickering on the HDMI, which is utterly annoying and completely takes my mind out of the movie when I'm getting involved, and it's outright embarrassing when I try showing people why they show get an HDTV when the movies keeping flickering or dropping out. Oddly enough, the problem is far worse and much more frequent watching standard DVDs on either system, or even my Sony 1080i upscaling player. Watching DVDs is almost pointless because of it, and now I own 300+ movies which have essentially become obsolete.

If it wasn't for it's abominable HDCP issues, I'd be very, very happy with my TX47. I keep all my game systems updated as soon as I find out of a newer version. My TV has a day 1 firmware from April 2007, and I only took this TV instead of another brand because it came with the USB service port for updates, unlike my old LVM42. There's at least 3 other confirmed firmwares out there for this set, why'd I pay for a USB port on my TV if I can't use it??

As soon as an opportunity presents itself, I'm selling mine and going with another brand altogether if Westinghouse can't get this firmware update procedure going before I get a fair offer locally. The PQ and gaming on this set are phenominal, but it seems rather pointless to own such a large/expensive screen if this TV can't play standard DVDs from 3 different sources without problems. I don't know if its the fault of Westinghouse, or just HDCP in general, but every one of my discs on any format are original, legal purchases. Despite the negligible difference in 1080i/1080p, I will not settle for 1080i inputs over component when I paid for 100% 1080p throughout my system, you know?

I'm kind of hoping my TV will die or else develop a problem otherwise so I can use my in-store replacement plan and get something more compatible for a guy like me who loves watching movies.

I just spent a lot of time going through this thread and couldn't find what I was looking for, so I apologize if this has been answered. I just got this TV yesterday and was wondering how to reduce Banding, and if someone has really great settings for HDTV viewing, and xbox360.

Geez...I was planning on buying this unit, the 47inch on black friday...but I'm hearing a lot of bad comments about it here. I'm getting pretty discouraged. I mean, I'm not exactly a video expert or videophile but I thought this tv would be a good deal for the price. Maybe not? Is ANYONE happy with this tv?

all these bad things to be said...I'm not sure what to buy on black friday now, this 47 inch westinghouse, or the 46 inch Sharp Aquos!!!

Don't get the Westinghouse. You'll become an expert by simple virtue of having to figure out what's causing all of the problems you'll be having. Under certain circumstances, with a certain configuration of appliances, when the humidity wavers in a certain range and the moon is approaching the fourth house, you may have no trouble with this TV and enjoy it thoroughly. Otherwise, you'll constantly be trying to work around some issue or another. (And you'll be doing it by yourself, as Westinghouse is no help. As everyone's said, they're not even bothering to distribute firmware updates they've already made.)

And the black levels are really bad. It's very difficult to watch any movie that takes place mostly at night; everything's a too-bright gray, even after a lot of tinkering (this is even with the backlight off). I'm one of those insufferable people who loves showing off HD video to friends, and this actually makes me embarrassed.

In short, read the below and see your fate, MWA HA HA HA HA HA:


I'm kind of hoping my TV will die or else develop a problem otherwise so I can use my in-store replacement plan and get something more compatible for a guy like me who loves watching movies.

I just spent a lot of time going through this thread and couldn't find what I was looking for, so I apologize if this has been answered. I just got this TV yesterday and was wondering how to reduce Banding, and if someone has really great settings for HDTV viewing, and xbox360.

search the thread theres some settings buried in here some place.

edit, sorry didnt read your whole post. pm me and when i get home ill give you my settings

I'm so glad I didn't buy this seemingly piece of crap

This is a movie watching issue - thus the reason it is under the BD/DVD settings menu on the PS3. When set to automatic it does not appear to be outputting 24 Hz, and when set to on it gets the "no signal" problem on the TX, but only while playing a movie disc.

EDIT: Regarding the discussion of satisfaction with the set, I am very happy with the TX-47. My PS3 1080/24 failure is only a minor nitpick and truthfully I am so used to 60 Hz judder that 24 Hz would probably look strange to me! I have had absolutely no other problems and while the PQ of the set can obviously be beat by newer LCD panels, I still think it was a good price/performance tradeoff for me personally.

Follow up:

Rented Hostel 2. PS3 is set to 24hz on. Plays fine. Not getting the no signal issue.

So today I sold the set. I could no longer justify having it over a bigger and much better Samsung 5271.

The lack of firmware updates, poor black levels, and various unresolved issues with the TV are the reasons I jumped ship.

Keep in mind, when the TV does display colorful pictures/movies, it really does put out a nice clear picture (when it works right). For the price it is a great starter HDTV. I think I just grew out of it.

(While the Samsung has a few problems of its own, the picture really is jaw droppingly good)

I get the No Signal issue too with the PS3. Though if I switch to another input and then switch back, it seems to clear it up. I also only get the no signal issue randomly when switching to a new game or movie disc. There is also some HDMI static noise when starting up the PS3 or a game/movie... when the input has to reset.

I also get the frame "judder" as you've named it.

I've called Westinghouse tech support and sent numerous e-mails to them, as well as Amazon. It might help if those of you experiencing these issues called tech support and let them know. I talked to one tech there (Chris, the only Chris that works there, he said) and he mentioned that he had never heard of either one of these issues.

I'm going to call back and run through some stuff with him but just haven't had the chance because of work.

I'm very dissapointed in this set. The picture and sound are great when they're working... but it just has too many quirks.

I get the No Signal issue too with the PS3. Though if I switch to another input and then switch back, it seems to clear it up. I also only get the no signal issue randomly when switching to a new game or movie disc. There is also some HDMI static noise when starting up the PS3 or a game/movie... when the input has to reset.

I also get the frame "judder" as you've named it.

I've called Westinghouse tech support and sent numerous e-mails to them, as well as Amazon. It might help if those of you experiencing these issues called tech support and let them know. I talked to one tech there (Chris, the only Chris that works there, he said) and he mentioned that he had never heard of either one of these issues.

I'm going to call back and run through some stuff with him but just haven't had the chance because of work.

I'm very dissapointed in this set. The picture and sound are great when they're working... but it just has too many quirks.

I've made mention to Westinghouse tech support and engineers about every problem the TV has several times way back in June/July, and what have they done with that info over 4 months later....... absolutely nothing.

I can no longer recommend this TV, since better alternatives have come close in price now.

Yeah, I don't actually believe they'll do anything. Just a cynical optimist I guess? :)

Follow up:

Rented Hostel 2. PS3 is set to 24hz on. Plays fine. Not getting the no signal issue.
Hmm, that's interesting. It's good to know that this is working fine on certain sets or firmwares, since that makes a fix for the rest of us at least theoretically possible. Are you running the PS3 straight to your TV or through a receiver?

Hmm, that's interesting. It's good to know that this is working fine on certain sets or firmwares, since that makes a fix for the rest of us at least theoretically possible. Are you running the PS3 straight to your TV or through a receiver?

Going direct HDMI to the Westy. Still can't pass the sound out of the optical port (on the Westinghouse) to my Kenwood tho. Note: just for clarification sake - my tv is the TX-42F430S).

Apparently the banding I was experiencing was caused by inconsistent power. I bought a really good surge protector and the problem is fixed perfectly.

This product has class action law suit written all over it. If there are any lawyers out there I would be glad to act as lead plaintiff.

Despite reading all the problems on this thread, I still went ahead and bought the TX-42F430S last weekend. I thought I would be able to live with the problems especially considering the attractive price.

However, I found a much bigger problem (to me at least) which could most likely trigger my decision to return this unit and go for Samsung 4061F instead. I haven't gone thu' every single post on this thread but just kind of skim thru' instead. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this before.

When I hook up the TV to laptop at native 1920x1080 resolution, I notice the image don't even line up on the physical pixels. This is what it SHOULD look like (which happens to be shot at the laptop screen itself):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/LaptopLCD.jpg

This is how it looks like on the Westy:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/West_VGA_Native.jpg

See how you CANNOT distinguish each vertical stroke from adjacent letters?

Here's a closer look at the vertical strokes. It's ridiculous!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/WestyZoom.jpg

Please tell me I'm not the 1st one who found this problem. I have tried every settings on the TV and laptop with no luck. I even tried fiddling with powerstrip. Same thing.

Despite reading all the problems on this thread, I still went ahead and bought the TX-42F430S last weekend. I thought I would be able to live with the problems especially considering the attractive price.

However, I found a much bigger problem (to me at least) which could most likely trigger my decision to return this unit and go for Samsung 4061F instead. I haven't gone thu' every single post on this thread but just kind of skim thru' instead. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this before.

When I hook up the TV to laptop at native 1920x1080 resolution, I notice the image don't even line up on the physical pixels. This is what it SHOULD look like (which happens to be shot at the laptop screen itself):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/LaptopLCD.jpg

This is how it looks like on the Westy:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/West_VGA_Native.jpg

See how you CANNOT distinguish each vertical stroke from adjacent letters?

Here's a closer look at the vertical strokes. It's ridiculous!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/WestyZoom.jpg

Please tell me I'm not the 1st one who found this problem. I have tried every settings on the TV and laptop with no luck. I even tried fiddling with powerstrip. Same thing.

What firmware do you have? It seemed that some June firmware 42" TX tvs have a screwed up picture (if you search back in the thread). My old TX 47 did not have that problem

I believe I have the latest firmware:

Build-on: 2007 Sep 7
Software Version: 5112_1.2.0

I have a very strong feeling that this happens to every unit. It's the unit's design flaw. The thing is this problem is not very noticeable until you look close enough (I didn't look close enough until after I bought it). One easy way to check this problem is bring up the menu (best with no input signal in the background). Take a very close look at the 4-way arrow graphics on the bottom beside the "Select" text. Or take a very close look at the box surrounding the "0" or "100" beside the Brightness/Contrast, etc. setting text.

On this panel, each pixel actually contains 6 separate dots, configured as such:

RGB
RGB

and will be fully lit as such which is perfect. If the 2 adjacent pixels should also be fully lit it will show like this:

RGBRGBRGB
RGBRGBRGB

But when a pixel should be halfly lit, it goes like this:

G
R B

with each of the shown R/G/B dots lit at full intensity. Or if the 2 adjacent pixels should also be lit as well, it will look like this:

G R B G R B
R B G R G B

Next time you get a chance, take a close look at the top stroke of the D in say the abc HD logo, or the DiscoveryHD logo, you'll see that it doesn't consist of a sharp-cut line like this:

###########
###########
####
####
####
####

Instead, it looks like this:

# # # # # # #
# # # # # # # #
# #
# #
# #
# #
# #


There's only ONE reason I can think of that this unit uses such algorithm -- each light dot CANNOT provide the full 8-bit intensity range and therefore requires 2 separate dots for each color to achieve that. If that's the case, looks like I'll have to return this unit.

Hmm, that's interesting. It's good to know that this is working fine on certain sets or firmwares, since that makes a fix for the rest of us at least theoretically possible. Are you running the PS3 straight to your TV or through a receiver?

I am running through receiver an get this "No Signal" but the picture is there. Hostel 1 has this issue

I am running through receiver an get this "No Signal" but the picture is there. Hostel 1 has this issue

ps. anyone tried calling Westy about this problem. I called them and they said its a problem with my PS3, now I will call again and tell them that it's NOT.

I asked this of Westinghouse: Is it correct that the June 2007 firmware for this model disables the SPDIF optical output when the input source is HDMI?

Their reply: This is true on all our models. The HDMI jacks are HDCP compliant. The set cannot pass through protected content.


Other posts here have confirmed that, although it does not seem to have been an issue in the original firmware.

I just purchased a TX-42F430S and i was trying to find out what people are recommending for the video settings. I will use the tv mainly with my PS3 and Some HD TV watching. Thanks for any info.

I just purchased a TX-42F430S and i was trying to find out what people are recommending for the video settings. I will use the tv mainly with my PS3 and Some HD TV watching. Thanks for any info.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10686911#post10686911

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10687894#post10687894

So I'm on my third TX42. I'm returning it to BestBuy this afternoon, no more exchanges. This solid color trailing is VERY bothersome and I shouldn't have to put up with it, especially when it's on HDMI 1080p (the whole reason for buying the tv). A better brand would be WELL worth a bit more, even without the "4" HDMI ports. I'll settle for two and swap them out if it means getting a clear picture. Westinghouse's answer to everything is "Unplug for 30sec, do a factory reset." Factory reset doesn't even reset everything, only maybe 4/5 items. The dynamic contrast lock is all the more reason to avoid this TV. If it worked like it should, it would be the best choice out there. Three units tell me that it doesn't, which is really a shame.

Question.

I have a

westy 42"
pc - DVI
x-fi sound card
Logitech 5300 speakers
ps3 - HDMI
wii - component
xbox360 - Component

How do I go about plugging them all up for the sound to come from my logitech5300?

Right now I have line 1,2,3 going from my logitech to my pc and my consoles going into the westy.

I'll be returning my 47inch westy, due to the same problems alot of people have mentioned here.

Bought a TX-42F430S recently and had some problems with my PS3. Got it replaced and am still having the same problem. I haven't read through all 120 pages of this forum, but my issue's not on the sticky post with the "known issues". If nobody else is seeing it, it might be some other factor....

The biggest problem is an image retention problem. Say there's a dark background with something light in the foreground. The light thing disappears or moves, and it leaves a dark gray shadow behind. Easiest reproduction I've seen is the folding@home client. Roll the earth around slowly and watch how the white lights leave a trail behind them. In this case, it's also compounded with some pretty nasty banding issues.

Works fine for some games (warhawk, motorstorm), but happens a lot in Rainbox Six.

It seems like the kind of thing that can happen with bad HDMI cables, but I've tried two of those and no luck. Took the PS3 to my parents' house and it works fine there, so I know it's not the PS3's fault. I stupidly tested it with their HDMI cable, so that doesn't rule out the possibility of me getting two bad cables. Bringing it over to their house tomorrow night to test again with my cable.

The salesman originally tried to sell me a "power conditioner", which I've heard is just a scam, so I didn't get one. Seems like "bad power" would interfere with the LCD itself, not the HDMI decoder (making other sources look bad too). Do the rest of you guys use those things? Are they actually legit? If so, what brand? I'd rather not pay $300 for some snake oil.

Has anybody else seen this problem? I've seen talk of it with other forums, but the best solution there was to turn off noise reduction features which this TV doesn't even seem to have. I tried the dynamic contrast setting, but as stated above, you can't actually turn that guy off.

To respond to some peoples questions...

I have had this TV for about 2 months now. The firmware is the June firmware if I remember correctly. Even though many have had issues, this forum represents a VERY SMALL portion of the population with this TV. Most people who make their experience known through support forums are people with problems. Not many people make their way online to visit a forum just to say they are perfectly satisfied.. Well.. except for ME..hehe. It would be close to the same as a person calling up SBC DSL technical support of customer service just to say how pleased they are with the service. On a lighter note:

This TV has been great to me. I currently have:

Motorola HD-DVR box via HDMI
Gaming/Primary PC via DVI>HDMI
HTPC via DVI>HDMI
XBox > Component
SA DVD player via Component

I have not noticed any flickering, banding, dead pixels, audio popping or skipping, picture shifted via VGA, ghosting, etc..etc. I currently use this TV primarily as a computer monitor (for browsing, typing, and Movies (HD-DVD), and watching TV. ) I currently have my TV in 1080p and while it isn't as clear as my computer monitor at 2 feet away.. I really never expected that. Over 2 feet away it is as clear as day. I have been currently playing PC games on it (Call of Duty 4, Gears of War, Crysis are the current ones) and I have been SOOOO happy with it. Everything looks absolutely amazing. No mouse lag with my logitech bluetooth remote desktop keyboard and mouse. I am playing all my games on a "hard" level and I have no problems with accuracy. People who have seen me play computer games, or run graphical demos have been amazed. The other thing I have my computer do is play HD-DVD movies, as well as upconvert original DVDs. I have been in heaven, and the other awesome thing is I have the Razer Barracuda HC-1 5.1 headphones. My movie experience will never be the same. I originally tried to hook up the TV to my computer via VGA @ 1080p, and it definitelly had some color bleeding.. once I went HDMI I was THRILLED. Currently I run my games @ 1280x768 that use too much bandwidth, but older games are running at 1920x1080.

My TV experience is great. I too get the closed caption jumbled line at the top of the screen on SD broadcasts, but on HD broadcasts, I rarely see it. Only when there is a commercial on. It doesn't bother me anyway. Verizon Fios looks amazing, and certainly rivals HD-DVD's in their HD. BTW, the Planet Earth Series is absolutely amazing on this TV. I have never had any sound issues. The only problem I had (not related to the TV) is the power button on my fios remote turns on the TV AND the cable box at one time, so once they got messed up so when I tirned on my TV, my box would turn OFF... at first I was experiencing the lock up, but I wasn't. Used my Westy remote to turn on the TV and continued using my Fios remote and all was well.

The channel surfing via the digital tuner is very slow but since I got my fios box, I have no need to use the tuner.

Blacks leave something to be desired (specirfically because I come from a 36" Sony \Vega XBR HDTV (Sony Tube HD TV's are king for blacks), but to be honest, I don't notice it that much at all. Only on certain times where I know there should be a little more clarity in the different levels of blacks... in really dark scenes. But with a little tweaking it is not that bad at all. Certainly not bad enough to write it off for being a 1000$ TV.

The ONLY problem I am having (which no one has even attempted to answer) is that I am unable to display 1280x720 from my computers. A workaround I am doing is using 1280x768.. which works perfectly so it is not that big of a deal. But when I try to display 1280x720 on my desktop, or in a game, I get "No Signal" message on my TV. This is very strange because I can display 1920x1080 JUST FINE.. and the display mode of "720p" is supposed to be 1280x720 right? I would assume if my TV could display 720p, then it should be able to do this resolution right? I even notice several people who say they have that resolution set. Anybody care to investigate this for me? Are you capable of displaying 720p?

Despite reading all the problems on this thread, I still went ahead and bought the TX-42F430S last weekend. I thought I would be able to live with the problems especially considering the attractive price.

However, I found a much bigger problem (to me at least) which could most likely trigger my decision to return this unit and go for Samsung 4061F instead. I haven't gone thu' every single post on this thread but just kind of skim thru' instead. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this before.

When I hook up the TV to laptop at native 1920x1080 resolution, I notice the image don't even line up on the physical pixels. This is what it SHOULD look like (which happens to be shot at the laptop screen itself):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/LaptopLCD.jpg

This is how it looks like on the Westy:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/West_VGA_Native.jpg

See how you CANNOT distinguish each vertical stroke from adjacent letters?

Here's a closer look at the vertical strokes. It's ridiculous!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/RaceMiata/WestyZoom.jpg

Please tell me I'm not the 1st one who found this problem. I have tried every settings on the TV and laptop with no luck. I even tried fiddling with powerstrip. Same thing.

What resolution did you have your laptop set to when you took the picture? I do not know of any laptops with 1920 x 1080 screens. By the way, what kind of gfx card is in your laptop and what driver version are you using?

Thanks,

Alex

I believe I have the latest firmware:

Build-on: 2007 Sep 7
Software Version: 5112_1.2.0

I have a very strong feeling that this happens to every unit. It's the unit's design flaw. The thing is this problem is not very noticeable until you look close enough (I didn't look close enough until after I bought it). One easy way to check this problem is bring up the menu (best with no input signal in the background). Take a very close look at the 4-way arrow graphics on the bottom beside the "Select" text. Or take a very close look at the box surrounding the "0" or "100" beside the Brightness/Contrast, etc. setting text.

On this panel, each pixel actually contains 6 separate dots, configured as such:

RGB
RGB

and will be fully lit as such which is perfect. If the 2 adjacent pixels should also be fully lit it will show like this:

RGBRGBRGB
RGBRGBRGB

But when a pixel should be halfly lit, it goes like this:

G
R B

with each of the shown R/G/B dots lit at full intensity. Or if the 2 adjacent pixels should also be lit as well, it will look like this:

G R B G R B
R B G R G B

Next time you get a chance, take a close look at the top stroke of the D in say the abc HD logo, or the DiscoveryHD logo, you'll see that it doesn't consist of a sharp-cut line like this:

###########
###########
####
####
####
####

Instead, it looks like this:

# # # # # # #
# # # # # # # #
# #
# #
# #
# #
# #


There's only ONE reason I can think of that this unit uses such algorithm -- each light dot CANNOT provide the full 8-bit intensity range and therefore requires 2 separate dots for each color to achieve that. If that's the case, looks like I'll have to return this unit.

Does this have anything to do with the fact that the pixels on this panel are not actually square or rectangular? The are actually shaped like a chevron or look like this:

>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

I have the 47" model of this set. No problems since I picked up the tv 6 months ago. Recently I've been having issues that have become very annoying. Here is my setup...

- Westinghouse 47" TX-47F430s
- TW Cable HD-DVR going into my receiver via HDMI and back out to TV via HDMI
- XBOX360 connected directly to TV via HDMI (receiver won't pass 1080p to TV)

My issue is this, when turning on the set in the morning to watch tv it locks up and I have to hold the power on the tv for a few seconds to get it to reboot and then it's fine for watching tv. Trying to turn the tv off or switch inputs doesn't work because the tv itself is locked out but I can change channels etc, it just won't respond to remote control commands to the TV itself.

Anyone experience this amount of lockups? I have to reset the tv to get a picture and to be able to turn it off. Almost like I need to hurry up and turn it off after a reset so it doesn't lock up again. Frustrating!

I searched but didn't see if anyone was having the lockups THIS often! sheesh!

I purchased a HDMI -> DVI for my Westy TX42 ( monster cable, quality is not a question). It's using the 5112_1.3.0 June build, and I can't get my text to focus. My red text looks very saturated and blurry, I'm trying to figure out if I should exchange the TV?

im having same issue on my set...any idea?

Anyone experience this amount of lockups? I have to reset the tv to get a picture and to be able to turn it off. Almost like I need to hurry up and turn it off after a reset so it doesn't lock up again. Frustrating!



Once a week since the day I got it. I don't use the power button though I pull the power cord out so I know it is really reset.

Once a week since the day I got it. I don't use the power button though I pull the power cord out so I know it is really reset.

does that allow you to control the set's menus and what not? mine always locks up before I can that

does that allow you to control the set's menus and what not? mine always locks up before I can that

mine did the same thing, I returned it and got a new one which didnt have that problem, only a dead pixel along with the old one. I'll be returning BOTH. Looking for something else.

Sorry for the question I'm really illiterate when it comes to this stuff. I have a Dell Vostro 1500 notebook. I would like to connect my notebook to my
TX-42. I just got a Slingbox and will have the ability to watch some video on my computer. What I would like to do is hook my computer up to my Westy to view the video on the Westy, but dont really know if I should use my
S-Video port or the VGA output( I dont even know the difference bewteen the two or what they mean?)

My Dell has the following ports:

Externally Accessible
(4) USB 2.0 compliant 4-pin ports
15-pin VGA video connector
Network connector (RJ45)
Modem connector (RJ11)
AC adapter connector
Microphone in & Headphone jack
4-pin IEEE 1394 port
S-Video out
Consumer IR (infrared sensor)
8-in-1 media memory card reader 54 mm ExpressCard slot

Do I use the VGA or the S-Video? Do I need something seperate for the audio? Whats the name of the cord that I buy? Is their any settings on my TV that need to be to be tweaked?


Thanks in Advance

I have the 47" model of this set. No problems since I picked up the tv 6 months ago. Recently I've been having issues that have become very annoying. Here is my setup...

- Westinghouse 47" TX-47F430s
- TW Cable HD-DVR going into my receiver via HDMI and back out to TV via HDMI
- XBOX360 connected directly to TV via HDMI (receiver won't pass 1080p to TV)

My issue is this, when turning on the set in the morning to watch tv it locks up and I have to hold the power on the tv for a few seconds to get it to reboot and then it's fine for watching tv. Trying to turn the tv off or switch inputs doesn't work because the tv itself is locked out but I can change channels etc, it just won't respond to remote control commands to the TV itself.

Anyone experience this amount of lockups? I have to reset the tv to get a picture and to be able to turn it off. Almost like I need to hurry up and turn it off after a reset so it doesn't lock up again. Frustrating!

I searched but didn't see if anyone was having the lockups THIS often! sheesh!



I purchased the TX on 10/31/07 - same lockup issues, holding down the power button for about 10 to 15 sec resolves the issue. Purchased from Electronics expo for $1271.88 $199.99 for 3year in home service contract. Went to the store today and spoke with the manager about the issue. They are suppose to have one of there repair vendors call me sometime between today and Friday to schedule an appointment for a service call. Since the issue is intermittant, not sure what the tech will be able to do. Anyone have experience returning TV's to Electronics Expo?:(

I have a TX-42F430S, a Samsung HT-X50 home theater system/DVD player, and a Directv HD receiver. The Directv receiver works fine with the HDMI ports. I can get no sound or picture with the Samsung. I took the Samsung back to Best Buy and while I was there, the salesperson plugged a new one into the display model of the TX-42F430S using HDMI ports and it worked fine. When I took the replacement Samsung home, I could not get it to work. I then took the TX-42F430S back and got a replacement and still could not get it to work. I have also tried three different HDMI cables. I have been through tech support with Samsung and Westinghouse with no luck.

Sorry for the question I'm really illiterate when it comes to this stuff. I have a Dell Vostro 1500 notebook. I would like to connect my notebook to my
TX-42. I just got a Slingbox and will have the ability to watch some video on my computer. What I would like to do is hook my computer up to my Westy to view the video on the Westy, but dont really know if I should use my
S-Video port or the VGA output( I dont even know the difference bewteen the two or what they mean?)

My Dell has the following ports:

Externally Accessible
(4) USB 2.0 compliant 4-pin ports
15-pin VGA video connector
Network connector (RJ45)
Modem connector (RJ11)
AC adapter connector
Microphone in & Headphone jack
4-pin IEEE 1394 port
S-Video out
Consumer IR (infrared sensor)
8-in-1 media memory card reader 54 mm ExpressCard slot

Do I use the VGA or the S-Video? Do I need something seperate for the audio? Whats the name of the cord that I buy? Is their any settings on my TV that need to be to be tweaked?


Thanks in Advance

You definitely want to use VGA. S-video won't carry the 1080p signal, but the VGA will. (HDMI or DVI would be better, but since you just have the VGA / dsub, that's what you use). I think you'll also need a simple male-to-male audio cable to go from the audio out on your notebook to the audio in on the TV. You can find that at Radio Shack and many other places. If you wanted to buy online, I'd check out http://monoprice.com. They've got very good deals on all kinds of cables.

What resolution did you have your laptop set to when you took the picture? I do not know of any laptops with 1920 x 1080 screens. By the way, what kind of gfx card is in your laptop and what driver version are you using?

Thanks,

Alex

Thanks for the response. This is actuallly the 2nd laptop I tried. It's my company laptop:

HP Compaq nc6220 Intel(R) Pentium(R) M 1.86GHz
Mobile Intel(R) 915GM/GMS,910GML Express Chipset Family
Driver: 6.14.10.3992
Video Bios: 3412

Native resolution for the laptop is 1400x1050 (fonts look really small on the 15" display), but that is independent on the external VGA port which can go up to 1920x1080 whether in extended mode or external-only mode. I initially tried with no luck with my personal Toshiba A series with 945 video chipset which is infamous for not allowing 1080p resolution even with powerstrip (although it ran fine with 2048x1536, 1920x1440 and all other odd resolutions on my 20" Compaq CRT monitor). Since I just recently moved to the States, I'm still waiting for my 2 PCs to be shipped over so at this moment I can't test DVI-HDMI input of the TV.

I'm still wondering if anybody has the same problem with VGA connection. And if you can test both VGA and DVI, does the problem go away with DVI? I can't wait to see how it works out with DVI when my PCs come in. Because if it has the same problem as I have with VGA, I'll return the TV.

Thanks for the response. This is actuallly the 2nd laptop I tried. It's my company laptop:

HP Compaq nc6220 Intel(R) Pentium(R) M 1.86GHz
Mobile Intel(R) 915GM/GMS,910GML Express Chipset Family
Driver: 6.14.10.3992
Video Bios: 3412

Native resolution for the laptop is 1400x1050 (fonts look really small on the 15" display), but that is independent on the external VGA port which can go up to 1920x1080 whether in extended mode or external-only mode. I initially tried with no luck with my personal Toshiba A series with 945 video chipset which is infamous for not allowing 1080p resolution even with powerstrip (although it ran fine with 2048x1536, 1920x1440 and all other odd resolutions on my 20" Compaq CRT monitor). Since I just recently moved to the States, I'm still waiting for my 2 PCs to be shipped over so at this moment I can't test DVI-HDMI input of the TV.

I'm still wondering if anybody has the same problem with VGA connection. And if you can test both VGA and DVI, does the problem go away with DVI? I can't wait to see how it works out with DVI when my PCs come in. Because if it has the same problem as I have with VGA, I'll return the TV.

In general, integrated graphics chipsets are the worst in terms of good, reliable driver updates and performance. I have an older gaming laptop with the Geforce 6800 Go and had no problems using it with my LVM-42W2 or the TX-42F430S at 1920 x 1080.

Do you have any friends with a more high-end laptop or desktop you could experiment with? If not, wait till your desktops get here.

Good Luck,

Alex

Does this have anything to do with the fact that the pixels on this panel are not actually square or rectangular? The are actually shaped like a chevron or look like this:

>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

Don't think so. The physical pixel layout on the panel is not a problem. When you bring up the menu on the TV, look closely on the text that are on full brightness. They don't suffer from the problem at all. Because like I said, at full brightness, each pixel is displayed as 2 perfectly lined-up rows of RGB pixels, not the pyramid/inverse-pyramid layout.

Since I posted last time, I checked out other Bestbuy stores for their units on display and am even more puzzled. There was one particular store they have the 42" that seemed like it didn't suffer from the "pyramid/inverse-pyramid" pixel layout problem (but all stores put the 42" high up so I couldn't inspect up close). The abc HD or Discovery HD logos didn't looked to have jagged egde on that one particular display unit. I managed to ask the salesperson to bring up the Video menu on that unit and was surprised to find that it didn't have the "calibrate" submenu like mine does. I wonder if it was a firmware difference but the salesperson was too busy with other customers so I couldn't get him to bring up the firmware version.

So now I'm interested to see what firmware version you guys have and what problems you have or don't have. I'll start first:

Build-on: 2007 Sep 7
Software Version: 5112_1.2.0
Characteristics:
1. blur-text on VGA@1080p YES
2. blur-text on DVI@1080p haven't tested
3. Jagged edge on abcHD logo YES
4. Lock-up twice
5. "calibrate" Video sub-menu YES

In general, integrated graphics chipsets are the worst in terms of good, reliable driver updates and performance. I have an older gaming laptop with the Geforce 6800 Go and had no problems using it with my LVM-42W2 or the TX-42F430S at 1920 x 1080.

Do you have any friends with a more high-end laptop or desktop you could experiment with? If not, wait till your desktops get here.

Good Luck,

Alex

Thanks. I would really hope to blame the problem on the Intel video on my company HP laptop (Pentium-M-old), but from what I've seen so far I don't have high hope especially when I see jagged-edge abcHD logo even with HD broadcast and I hear other people having blur-text problem with DVI-HDMI. I wonder if that blur-text problem is exactly what I have with VGA input.

Unfortunately, at my new location I don't have many friends to borrow a higher-end PC to test with. In the meantime waiting for my desktops, I'm trying to get my personal Toshiba laptop to run 1080p resolution. I read that it's possible with some tedious tweaks. I know it runs fine on my older Westy 40" and my brother's 32" Viewsonic at 720p, and even run fine at 1920x1080 and 2048x1536 on my CRT monitor.

So is the spdif not capable of passing out 5.1, no matter the source? (example from 360/ps3 plugged into westing) Or is this problem only from digital broadcast?

Anyone else experiencing lockup issues with the TX-47F430S?

I purchased the TX on 10/31/07 - same lockup issues, holding down the power button for about 10 to 15 sec resolves the issue. Purchased from Electronics expo for $1271.88 $199.99 for 3year in home service contract. Went to the store today and spoke with the manager about the issue. They are suppose to have one of there repair vendors call me sometime between today and Friday to schedule an appointment for a service call. Since the issue is intermittant, not sure what the tech will be able to do. Anyone have experience returning TV's to Electronics Expo?

Anyone else experiencing lockup issues with the TX-47F430S?

I purchased the TX on 10/31/07 - same lockup issues, holding down the power button for about 10 to 15 sec resolves the issue. Purchased from Electronics expo for $1271.88 $199.99 for 3year in home service contract. Went to the store today and spoke with the manager about the issue. They are suppose to have one of there repair vendors call me sometime between today and Friday to schedule an appointment for a service call. Since the issue is intermittant, not sure what the tech will be able to do. Anyone have experience returning TV's to Electronics Expo?

I have a TX47 with April firmware and not experienced one lockup. But of coarse I do have a couple of the other issues such as poping sound through HDMI and having to reboot when the screen goes into its stutter mode.

im also getting frustrated with this set. while the picture is good, the contrast problem is annoying..

i have the june fw...when are we getting damn updates?

im also getting frustrated with this set. while the picture is good, the contrast problem is annoying..

i have the june fw...when are we getting damn updates?

Call westinghouse and see if they'll email you one. Otherwise based on my past with this (now sold) TV, you'll never get one.

guyver2077 What do you mean by the contrast problem? I know if I set the brightness to low I start seeing artifacts in black areas - very annoying. I have tried several calibration settings with no luck resolving this issue. Xbox 360 looks awesome on this set though. I just want them to fix the lock up issues. For now I disabled the E.Saver mode and set it to normal. IT has not locked up since I made that change. I will see if this makes a difference. FYI - I have the June Firmware

I just got my TX 47 the other day from BB during the nov 16-19 sale special 12% coupon (which would make it cheaper than getting it during black friday).

Anyway, mine says build-on 2007 Sept 7
Software version : 5121_1.2.0

is that the latest firmware as far as we all know?

I wonder why westinghouse doesn't post these firmware on their www if they tout this user upgradeable firmware feature on their product?

Maybe we should have our own www with these firmwares?

Also is there a hidden service menu for the TX series?

Just another issue, is it just me or anyone else also getting a double, slightly blurred 1:1 pixel mapping with DVI-HDMI on their TX 47? I have an LVM 37 and the 1:1 mapping thr dvi is razor sharp. I can't stand not able to have sharp digital mapping. I am using my TX primarily connected to my pc. Maybe it's a signal timing issue? If it is, please if anyone can give me the timing or setting (maybe using powerstrip?)

Thanks

i am really thinking of getting this the 42 inch model of this tv.

Best Buy jackassily raised the price on it 200 dollars this week, but the salesboy said it should be back on sale next week.

There was an open box model there for 1060, but I wasn't sure about that one since it was open box, but I played with it for 1 hour in the store with the remote, and inspected the screen, it looked flawless AND it had the september firmware on it.

I want to get an upscaling DVD player with this, which is why I am hoping that the price will go back down to sub 1000 next week. I was planning on using my xbox360 and Wii with it, then hopefully with a PS3 when i get that.

How does Blu Ray and HD-DVD look on it?

I'm sorry so many people are having problems with their sets. With a little tweaking of the screen you can really make this thing look SHARP.

Do we know if the september firmware has all the lockups and problems fixed on it?

Keep up the good posts.

Okay, I have the 42f430s and I have had no problems as of yet. But I also have only had it for a 2 weeks. I just came from my buddies house who has a year old samsung plasma, and he has burn in from the 4:3 format on some of the hd stuff. So watching the football games made the burn in sorta distracting as you could see the shades of black bars from the 16:9 and 4:3 format delineation.

I'm just worried from what I am reading, how bad this tv is. I mean I can pick up a panasonic for not much more but the plasma's worry me with burn in.

I just don't want to hold on to this tv if its a problem. I don't use the tv's sound at all as I go through my receiver for sound. I mean the sound from this tv is horrible, but I did not buy it for the speakers.

I just got this set last Week, and I am enjoying it. It is a Sept. Firmware set . I haven't seen any of the issues that people have been mentioning, maybe the latest firmware has taken care of most of the issues.

jlabom - What is the actual text under system info?

This is mine - Build on: 2007 June 26 Software Version: 5121_1.3.0

geoffp1 - XBOX 360 Looks awesome via VGA 1080P. I'll find out how the Wii looks this weekend. Waiting for the component cables to come in

Have SA Explorer 8300HD cable box via HDMI 1 - Sound through home theater system for all components. - Standard def looks horrid - I'd say most of the Prime Time HD TV shows look great. I Also have a Philips Upconversion DVD Player Model #: PHL DVP5982 via HMDI 2. upconverted DVD's look good at 1080P.

Currently have power mode to "normal" The TX47 has yet to lock up today. When the TV was set to "EP.Saver" it would lock up constantly, almost daily.

My low budget setup below:
http://picasaweb.google.com/IrvingXPagan/HDTV/photo?authkey=u9n9_A4_Y3w#5135864115328684146

is the latest firmware based on the month or the release number?

is the latest firmware based on the month or the release number?



I am unsure - I was questioning that myself

How do i get software version 5121_1.3.0? Is that the latest software ver as far as we know? any issue with it?

I currently have 5121_1.2.0

Thanks. I would really hope to blame the problem on the Intel video on my company HP laptop (Pentium-M-old), but from what I've seen so far I don't have high hope especially when I see jagged-edge abcHD logo even with HD broadcast and I hear other people having blur-text problem with DVI-HDMI. I wonder if that blur-text problem is exactly what I have with VGA input.

Unfortunately, at my new location I don't have many friends to borrow a higher-end PC to test with. In the meantime waiting for my desktops, I'm trying to get my personal Toshiba laptop to run 1080p resolution. I read that it's possible with some tedious tweaks. I know it runs fine on my older Westy 40" and my brother's 32" Viewsonic at 720p, and even run fine at 1920x1080 and 2048x1536 on my CRT monitor.

When I get a minute I will do some tinkering of my own with my laptop to see if I stumble across anything. I will use a DVI -> HDMI cable to see if it makes any difference but mine has been fine with VGA.

Reporting back soon,

Alex

P.S. Happy Thanksgiving all!

jlabom - What is the actual text under system info?

This is mine - Build on: 2007 June 26 Software Version: 5121_1.3.0

geoffp1 - XBOX 360 Looks awesome via VGA 1080P. I'll find out how the Wii looks this weekend. Waiting for the component cables to come in

Have SA Explorer 8300HD cable box via HDMI 1 - Sound through home theater system for all components. - Standard def looks horrid - I'd say most of the Prime Time HD TV shows look great. I Also have a Philips Upconversion DVD Player Model #: PHL DVP5982 via HMDI 2. upconverted DVD's look good at 1080P.

Currently have power mode to "normal" The TX47 has yet to lock up today. When the TV was set to "EP.Saver" it would lock up constantly, almost daily.

My low budget setup below:
http://picasaweb.google.com/IrvingXPagan/HDTV/photo?authkey=u9n9_A4_Y3w#5135864115328684146

When your Wii component cables come in you will have to use fill on the TV and set the Wii to display in 16 x 9 in the Wii options for the game images to look right.

Have fun,

Alex

So is the spdif not capable of passing out 5.1, no matter the source? (example from 360/ps3 plugged into westing) Or is this problem only from digital broadcast?

Anyone?

When your Wii component cables come in you will have to use fill on the TV and set the Wii to display in 16 x 9 in the Wii options for the game images to look right.

Have fun,

Alex

Ok, I got the cables and it looks ok, not the best picture - but hey it's a Wii
have everyting going into the TV. Can't get 5.1 sound out of the analog out. Is this the TX or the Wii. The Wii is currently set to "surround". My receiver is only detecting 2 chanel :(

for those with dvi (using hdmi dvi cables)...on monoprice is there a difference between the 24AWG and the 28AWG? the 24 is twice as much

well...I am up to page 73 of this thread...what a wild ride.

still really want the 42" model of this TV though.

I stopped by BB tonight in Annapolis, MD and looks like someone snatched the one of the shelf that was priced as open box, probably in the Black Friday rush.

Patience is a virtue.

Hi.

I trolled around the AVS forum and google etc for answers to this question. But it seemed not many people had this televison hooked up to their computer with an ATI Card.

Benzonate has a workaround quite early in this thread, but that seems specific to the Nvidia cards, and it seems like you need a LVM-42 handy to get it to work.

I currently have an ATI x1800xt, and am trying to connect the Westinghouse TX 42 to it. Unfortunately I cannot get the image to cover the entire screen.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff132/fellows_bucket/problem.jpg

It is hooked up with a DVI-HDMI adapter/cable. My display settings resolution is in fact at 1920x1080 so I'm not sure what the exact problem is here.

It is possible that I am dealing with 1:1 Pixel mapping issue?

Right now Yellow text is completely illegible. I have to highlight the yellow text to see it.

I noticed that when using Catalyst Control Center, if I select 30hz interlaced then it completely covers the full screen size.

However, I'm almost certain that this unit supports full 1920x1080 @ 60HZ.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

well...I am up to page 73 of this thread...what a wild ride.

still really want the 42" model of this TV though.

I stopped by BB tonight in Annapolis, MD and looks like someone snatched the one of the shelf that was priced as open box, probably in the Black Friday rush.

Patience is a virtue.

I was curious as to why you wanted the 42" over the 47"? I was all set to buy the 42" today at Best Buy, but the 47" was only $100 more so I opted for that. Is the picture quality better on the 42"? I kind of wish I had bought the 42", mainly because the room it's in is a little small for the 47"

I was curious as to why you wanted the 42" over the 47"? I was all set to buy the 42" today at Best Buy, but the 47" was only $100 more so I opted for that. Is the picture quality better on the 42"? I kind of wish I had bought the 42", mainly because the room it's in is a little small for the 47"

Mainly because of the size of the room I suppose. We will be sitting about 5 feet away from the screen, so I thought 42" would be enough.

I really hope the price goes back down on the 42" set. It was "Jacked Up" for the shopping week this week I believe, but they wouldn't tell me anything at the store.

I was also gonna fool with it as a monitor once my computer graphics get up to spec.

Still running a GeForce 6800GS AGP! I wonder if that will run in the 1080p mode?

Day 3 - no lockup problems since switching the power mode from "E.Saver" to "Normal" :rolleyes: Let's see how the next couple of days go. If no lockups I will switch back to "E.Saver" and see if the lockups return.

FYI, I have never had problems with Westinghouse LCD TV's until this unit. I currently own:

LTV-27W2 (used in bedroom connected to SA 8300HD cable box via HDMI to DVI cable)

LVM-37w3 (Used as PC monitor - video card, Nvidia 6200 A-LE 256MB 8X AGP connected via DVI cable 1920 by 1080 60 Hertz

Day 3 - no lockup problems since switching the power mode from "E.Saver" to "Normal" :rolleyes: Let's see how the next couple of days go. If no lockups I will switch back to "E.Saver" and see if the lockups return.

FYI, I have never had problems with Westinghouse LCD TV's until this unit. I currently own:

LTV-27W2 (used in bedroom connected to SA 8300HD cable box via HDMI to DVI cable)

LVM-37w3 (Used as PC monitor - video card, Nvidia 6200 A-LE 256MB 8X AGP connected via DVI cable 1920 by 1080 60 Hertz

hey, what build date and firmware is your's ixpagan? 42 or 47 inch? The open box model in the store I was looking at, I could not fool with the energy saver option, but I do believe I checked it with the remote and it had been on E. Saver mode. Remember the build on date was September but the firmware version escapes me.

hey, what build date and firmware is your's ixpagan? 42 or 47 inch? The open box model in the store I was looking at, I could not fool with the energy saver option, but I do believe I checked it with the remote and it had been on E. Saver mode. Remember the build on date was September but the firmware version escapes me.

I have Firmware Build on: 2007 June 26 Software Version: 5121_1.3.0

47 inch TX - Just got an email from Westinghouse support with these recommendations on the lockups;

For basic troubleshooting on your unit we'd ask that you first turn off the unit and unplug the power for 30 seconds to 1 full minute. When you are plugging the unit in please try a different outlet or circuit in your home. If you are using a surge protector you may also want to try an alternate surge protector of bypassing the surge protector for now to see if this helps or makes any type of difference. Once you have plugged the unit in please power it on. If you are able to bring up the menu we'd ask that you then try a factory reset, which is located under the general settings in your Westinghouse on-screen menu.


I tried these steps when I got my first lockup on 11/07/07 - it made no difference. For now switching the TX to "Normal" power mode vs "E.Saver" (knock on wood) I have not experienced any lockups as stated in my previous post.

Sorry if I'm a complete idiot, but I just purchased the TV, and am very happy with it so far. Now, I haven't got a HT system yet, so I'm currently just using the built-in speakers on the Westy.

If I want to connect the audio from my PC sound card to the TV, can I use the SPDIF connector? Or is the SPDIF just for outputting from the TV to ane xternal source?

jlabom - What is the actual text under system info?

This is mine - Build on: 2007 June 26 Software Version: 5121_1.3.0

geoffp1 - XBOX 360 Looks awesome via VGA 1080P. I'll find out how the Wii looks this weekend. Waiting for the component cables to come in

Have SA Explorer 8300HD cable box via HDMI 1 - Sound through home theater system for all components. - Standard def looks horrid - I'd say most of the Prime Time HD TV shows look great. I Also have a Philips Upconversion DVD Player Model #: PHL DVP5982 via HMDI 2. upconverted DVD's look good at 1080P.

Currently have power mode to "normal" The TX47 has yet to lock up today. When the TV was set to "EP.Saver" it would lock up constantly, almost daily.

My low budget setup below:
http://picasaweb.google.com/IrvingXPagan/HDTV/photo?authkey=u9n9_A4_Y3w#5135864115328684146


Sorry for the delay in posting, but here is my build date and firmware:

2007 September 07
Firmware: 5112_1.20

Hi.

I trolled around the AVS forum and google etc for answers to this question. But it seemed not many people had this televison hooked up to their computer with an ATI Card.

Benzonate has a workaround quite early in this thread, but that seems specific to the Nvidia cards, and it seems like you need a LVM-42 handy to get it to work.

I currently have an ATI x1800xt, and am trying to connect the Westinghouse TX 42 to it. Unfortunately I cannot get the image to cover the entire screen.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff132/fellows_bucket/problem.jpg

It is hooked up with a DVI-HDMI adapter/cable. My display settings resolution is in fact at 1920x1080 so I'm not sure what the exact problem is here.

It is possible that I am dealing with 1:1 Pixel mapping issue?

Right now Yellow text is completely illegible. I have to highlight the yellow text to see it.

I noticed that when using Catalyst Control Center, if I select 30hz interlaced then it completely covers the full screen size.

However, I'm almost certain that this unit supports full 1920x1080 @ 60HZ.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Use ATI's latest drivers, set the overscan option to 0%. Its not a TV problem.

I am really new with HDTV so I would really help from you guys. I just purchased the 42 inch TV of this model. I hooked up the TV with my PS3 via HDMI and played a Blu-ray movie. The output shown on the upper right hand corner said 1080i. I was expecting 1080p. Any reason why that is happening? The HDMI cable? Any tips would help. Thanks.

ps3 issue

sound jutters and im getting some blackout flashes... is it the cable?
which cable should i get ?

I am really new with HDTV so I would really help from you guys. I just purchased the 42 inch TV of this model. I hooked up the TV with my PS3 via HDMI and played a Blu-ray movie. The output shown on the upper right hand corner said 1080i. I was expecting 1080p. Any reason why that is happening? The HDMI cable? Any tips would help. Thanks.

Be sure you have the PS3 set to output in 1080p from within the PS3s XMB. It will be under the video settings tab.

Good Luck,

Alex

Please make sure you have the latest Playstation 3 firmware. I heard that fixed some of the HDCP flickering issues with these TV's.

Please make sure you have the latest Playstation 3 firmware. I heard that fixed some of the HDCP flickering issues with these TV's.


bought it today and updated it today

i don't have one of these TV's but I would like to help

what cable you got?

i don't have one of these TV's but I would like to help

what cable you got?

to be honest just a twc cable prolly elcheapo should i go pick up one if so what?

I just want to say that I have had my TX42 since the end of July with a April 2007 firmware.

After reading this forum for about 3 weeks after purchase I bought the BB warranty.

I have not had to use it. I have only ran into 2 issues about 2 months ago. One was a freeze that was fixed by unplugging the unit. Also the PS3 flickering issue which was resolved by moving it to the 1st HDMI port.

Other than that it has been on eSaver mode with about 3 hours of usage per day.

No problems and I have been happier than a devil. When I bought it it was probably the best deal.

I would probably suggest the Sharp 42 inch over this, but IMHO I do not think the Sharp holds a candle to the pricer Samsung and Sony models.

gosh i really hope the tx-42f430s goes back down in price monday at BB so I can snatch one up.

as much as I liked the westy...the 4066f I picked up from BB's BF is my new baby...wife seriously couldn't tell the difference so now it's sitting on her desk..the kicker was that the 4066 I bought for the same price as the westy..when u add in the directv deal it was less than a G...without the huge price difference there is no contest. I will say this, the westy's remote and menu's are MUCH easier to use.

as much as I liked the westy...the 4066f I picked up from BB's BF is my new baby...wife seriously couldn't tell the difference so now it's sitting on her desk..the kicker was that the 4066 I bought for the same price as the westy..when u add in the directv deal it was less than a G...without the huge price difference there is no contest. I will say this, the westy's remote and menu's are MUCH easier to use.

I sold the westy 47 and picked up a Samsung 5271. The westy couldn't hold a candle to it, except for price alone.

There is no way the TX 52 inch model could compare though for only a few hundred less.

Just another issue, is it just me or anyone else also getting a double, slightly blurred 1:1 pixel mapping with DVI-HDMI on their TX 47? I have an LVM 37 and the 1:1 mapping thr dvi is razor sharp. I can't stand not able to have sharp digital mapping. I am using my TX primarily connected to my pc. Maybe it's a signal timing issue? If it is, please if anyone can give me the timing or setting (maybe using powerstrip?)

Thanks

Sounds like what I found with my VGA hookup. Check out my previous posts and pictures in great details describing the problem

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=12242641&postcount=3645

I don't want to keep quoting the actual posts and pictures inline and cover half of the page's real estate. :=) Let us know either way if that's what you're talking about. I still think that the problem I found is not limited to VGA input (still waiting for my desktops to come to test). Like I said, that problem led me to discover the unorthodox pyramid/inverse-pyramid pixel layout strategy this TV uses that dramatically reduces picture clarity. I notice it happens on ANY input including built-in Tuner. Like I said, look really closely on the jagged edge of the horizontal strokes of the character "D" in abcHD, DiscoveryHD, NBC HD, etc. logo. Compare to another 1080p LCD HDTV side-by-side (perhaps best done at the store). It's just that without pixel-thin fonts, it's not easily noticed.

Another possible reason this problem hasn't been mentioned before I did is that Westinghouse might have changed the firmware or even the panel resulting in this problem. This sounds farfetched but that's exactly what happened to their 24" LCD monitor. They originally used the more expensive and better MVA panel. They even say it on the site. When the price of their 24" dropped way down at BB, I couldn't help but picking up one yesterday, only to realize that Westy switched to the cheaper TN panel on the 24" secretly and not updating their website spec accordingly.

Chris

When I get a minute I will do some tinkering of my own with my laptop to see if I stumble across anything. I will use a DVI -> HDMI cable to see if it makes any difference but mine has been fine with VGA.

Reporting back soon,

Alex

P.S. Happy Thanksgiving all!

Thanks. Please note that you need to disable Windows "ClearType" feature and use single-pixel-thin fonts in order to notice this problem.

Just FYI, I've been trying to get my Toshiba laptop's GMA950 to run 1080p on my TX-42F430S without success. I'm now able to get 1920x1080p60 resolution but the TV says no input. On the other hand, it's able to show 1080p on my new-bought Westy 24" LCD PC Monitor but the screen is not stable and looks like badly setup interlaced mode. I know it's the laptop's problem even though I've run 2048x1536 on a few of my 19" and 20" CRTs no problem. And I'm surprised the older company laptop with GMA910 didn't need powerstrip tweaking to run 1080p60 or 1920x1200 on the PC monitor.

If anybody manages to run Intel GMA950 with 1080p60 would you share with us what timing you run?

if I don't get the amazon customers vote deal for the samsung LNT-4661f on the 28th, which looks like it will be a steal if I win it, I suppose I'll get the tx-42f430s

i stupidly voted for the blu ray player instead of the hd-dvd player, because ill have blu ray when I get ps3...doh!

I voted for the ps3 on thursday, but didn't get chosen, but looks like everyone wanted the Wii more for only $79 plus shipping. I already have a Wii!

I'm a soon to be owner of a TX-42F430S. I have DirecTV with no HD, for the people who had or have DirecTV with no HD how does it look? I've read that SD on this set looks bad. Is that only the local channels or does DirecTV fall into that SD column?

noooooo, those idiots

BB put on sale the 32" 720p set on sale this week instead of the tx-42f430s!

I hope they change the price tomorrow on it, or else I might have to order from amazon.com

So is the spdif not capable of passing out 5.1, no matter the source? (example from 360/ps3 plugged into westing) Or is this problem only from digital broadcast?These TVs will not pass HDMI audio out via S/PDIF in order to comply with HDCP. It is bullshit, but it is not Westy's fault. Thank your Hollywood masters for this lovely 'feature'.

(note that you COULD pass HDMI audio in the original firmware [April], but in all later firmwares you cannot)

Hi.

I trolled around the AVS forum and google etc for answers to this question. But it seemed not many people had this televison hooked up to their computer with an ATI Card.

Benzonate has a workaround quite early in this thread, but that seems specific to the Nvidia cards, and it seems like you need a LVM-42 handy to get it to work.

I currently have an ATI x1800xt, and am trying to connect the Westinghouse TX 42 to it. Unfortunately I cannot get the image to cover the entire screen.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff132/fellows_bucket/problem.jpg

It is hooked up with a DVI-HDMI adapter/cable. My display settings resolution is in fact at 1920x1080 so I'm not sure what the exact problem is here.

It is possible that I am dealing with 1:1 Pixel mapping issue?

Right now Yellow text is completely illegible. I have to highlight the yellow text to see it.

I noticed that when using Catalyst Control Center, if I select 30hz interlaced then it completely covers the full screen size.

However, I'm almost certain that this unit supports full 1920x1080 @ 60HZ.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

This is an odd problem with this TV, I have the TX47 and get this kind of problem with certain games only. My Desktop comes up fine. But several games including Bioshock will not take the full screen up in the same manor you show in your picture. The ATI overscan in the CCC does not fix this as it is not with all games only a few cause this problem. I did notice though on one DX10 game that if I ran it in DX9 it would take the full screen. It is a strange problem. My LVM-37W1 never had this kind of problem.

I'm a soon to be owner of a TX-42F430S. I have DirecTV with no HD, for the people who had or have DirecTV with no HD how does it look? I've read that SD on this set looks bad. Is that only the local channels or does DirecTV fall into that SD column?

Anyone know?:(

My first set didn't have the yellow line on the left on NBC 1080i at all. My now second set has that yellow annoying line but, no audio sync problems.

I also get a yellow bar on the left side of my set when I'm watching NBC HD. I can't believe this would be a TV problem when NO other channel has this issue. Can anyone confirm this is indeed NBC's problem and not the TV?

It is a known NBC issue.

Later,

Alex

update.

new hdmi cable and ps3 update via internet to 2.01 eliminated the blackout flashes

I'm a soon to be owner of a TX-42F430S. I have DirecTV with no HD, for the people who had or have DirecTV with no HD how does it look? I've read that SD on this set looks bad. Is that only the local channels or does DirecTV channels fall into that SD column?

i was watching some SD stuff on the 42 inch model at best buy, and to be honest, i think it looked ok for being standard def, you can still watch standard def, but it's not going to look like the hd content

So it will look like SD or worse? :confused:

I'm a soon to be owner of a TX-42F430S. I have DirecTV with no HD, for the people who had or have DirecTV with no HD how does it look? I've read that SD on this set looks bad. Is that only the local channels or does DirecTV channels fall into that SD column?

I have a flat panel SD TV as well as the Westinghouse and Directv SD looks better on the SD TV than it does on the HDTV, but it is by no means a bad picture on the HDTV.

Be sure you have the PS3 set to output in 1080p from within the PS3s XMB. It will be under the video settings tab.

Good Luck,

Alex

Thanks that may be the solution for me.

I just currently purchased a Westinghouse TX series 47". On some Channels i experience a static white line at the top of the TV where the picture will be and on some channels there will be a white area in the upper right hand of the screen, but i usually just see that when i play my Xbox 360. Anyone know of why the TV does this??

i got tired of searching heres all posted calibration settings from avs
users
(search the poster and dates for usage)

Benzonate 5.27.07

TX-47F430s ADJUSTED TO MATCH THE LVM SETTINGS:
MODE: USER
BRIGHTNESS: 65
CONTRAST: 55
SATURATION: 51
HUE: 60
SHARPNESS: 95(of 100)
BACKLIGHT: 100
COLOR TEMP: NEUTRAL

nibbs159 5.30.07

40 brightness
62 contrast
40 saturation
45 hue
0 sharpness
30 backlight
neutral color temp

jbradg 6.02.07

Brightness 45
Contrast 55
Saturation 50
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 70
Color temp neutral
Dynamic Contrast Off

s4gunn 6.22.07

Brightness 40
Contrast 65
Saturation 56
Hue 51
Sharpness 0
Backlight 50
Color temp neutral
Dynamic Contrast Off

FWIW, it appears that most people agree that:
Sharpness should be set to 0
Backlight <100
Dynamic Contrast Off
Color Temp Neutral

revised

Brightness 65 (up from 45)
Contrast 68
Saturation 56
Hue 51
Sharpness 0
Backlight 50
Color temp neutral
Dynamic Contrast OFF

huggybear 6.22.07

Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Saturation 56
Hue 51
Sharpness 0
Backlight 50
Color temp neutral
Dynamic Contrast Off

bhazard 6.22.07

Brightness 45
Contrast 63
Saturation 55
Hue 50
Sharpness 20 or 30
Backlight 40 or 50
Color temp neutral
Dynamic Contrast On

midway 6.22.07

Brightness: 61
Contrast: 50
Saturation: 42
Hue: 47
Sharpness: 25
Backlight: 0
Color Temp: warm
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Comb Filter: On

FAtmotti 6.22.07

Brightness: 34
Contrast: 72
Saturation: 61
Hue: 48
Sharpness: 50 (0-100 seemed to make no difference)
Backlight: 0
Color Temp: warm
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Comb Filter: On

bidzer 6.22.07

Brightness: 61
Contrast: 50
Saturation: 42
Hue: 47
Sharpness: 7
Backlight:70
Color Temp: Neutral

Deinterlace: Off
3D Comb: On
Color Temp: Neutral
R: 148
G: 154
B: 142
Dynamic: Off

technofn50 6.24.07

Color Temp: Neutral
Brightness: 70
Contrast: 35
Saturation: 50
Hue: 50
Sharpness: 0
Backlight: 30

x84HurstOlds 6.29.07

Brightness 55
Contrast 62
Saturation 40
Hue 45
Sharpness 0
Backlight 20-30
Color Temp Warm

RSchermer 7.02.07

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Temp: Neutral
Red: 142 (started clipping beyond 142)
Green: 142 (started clipping beyond 154)
Blue: 130 (started clipping beyond 130)
Brightness: 57
Contrast: 46
Saturation: 36
Hue: 49
Sharpness: 25 (or whatever as it made no difference on my set)
Backlight: Anywhere from 0 - 30 (or more if needed but not recommended).
10-20 is best in darkened room)

Xcalibur_255 7.03.07

Brightness - 41
Contrast - 69
Saturation - 43
Sharpness - 0
Backlight - 0 or 10
Color Temp - Warm (this looks quite good, I don't see a need to experiment
with the RGB controls really)
Dynamic Contrast - Off (as far as this feature goes it's actually not too
bad, but it messes with the overall gamma curve and makes the balance of the
image look unnatural. If I could turn it on only for SD cable viewing I
would, but it does more harm than good for anything else and tends to
further crush blacks.)
Deinterlace - On (of course, this is indeed a film mode toggle and this
should never be turned off under any circumstances. It could be safely
turned off if you were feeding it a progressive source 100% of the time, but
the setting is ignored for progressive input anyway.)
Comb Filter - On (it cleans up a bit of dot crawl and cross coloration on
the SD stuff just like it should, again this should not be turned off as
there is simply no reason to ever do so. I have to wonder why the option is
even there. Nobody else does even though all these sets have them.)

bhazard 7.03.07

Brightness: 54
Contrast: 68
Saturation - 49 to 55 (36 is more accurate, but dull to me)
Sharpness - 0 to 20
Backlight - 30 to 50 ( I think this helps w crush more than a low backlight
honestly, i like it better)
Color Temp - Neutral RGB at 128 for now, as changing them distorts color in
grey screen test patterns. I do like red at 133, blue at 130, green at 129.
Dynamic Contrast - Off (with this on, you can lower brightness to about 34,
sometimes produces a better pic, sometimes doesnt. Brightness needs to be
lowered with it on or the pic washes out.
Deinterlace - On
Comb Filter - On

midway 7.06.07

Brightness - 58

Contrast - 48
Saturation - 38
Sharpness - 0
Backlight - 0 at night or with room light blocked, 10-20 for daytime viewing
Color Temp - Warm

flabioh 7.07.07

general
Brightness - 59
Contrast - 69
Saturation - 55
Hue - 50
Sharpness - 25
Backlight - 30
Color Temp - Warm

vga
Brightness - 67
Contrast - 51
Sat - 48
Hue - 50
Sharpness - 25
Backlight - 0
Color Temp - Warm

xnappo 7.09.07

Brightness: 41
Contrast: 65
Saturation: 65
Hue: 50
Sharpness: 20
Backlight: 10
Color Temp: Warm

Xcalibur_255 7.10.07

Brightness - 40 (technically 39 is correct, but I allowed the pluge bar to
remain very slightly visible here for good measure).
Contrast - 75 (accurate to within 1% here with no white level clipping
present)
Saturation - 60 (again, dead on using a blue filter)
Sharpness - 0 (not needed)
Backlight - 0 (in a dim room with these new contrast settings the set is
more than bright enough at zero backlight)
Color Temp - Warm (naturally, I've mentioned before this setting is pretty
accurate out of the box)
Dynamic Contrast - Off of course.

bhazard 7.13.07

xbox360 over VGA

Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Saturation 60
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 30

HDMI Cable box settings

Brightness 41-45
Contrast 60-62
Saturation 60
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 30

PS3 HDMI

Brightness 49-52
Contrast 58
Saturation 60
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 30

TLJester 7.17.07

Brightness - 67
Contrast - 65
Saturation - 55
Hue - 50
Sharpness - 50
Backlight - 30
Color Temp - Warm
Dynamic Contrast - On

tokiidokii 7.23.07

Settings:
User Calibration (yes):
Color Temp (warm: R-145, G-140, B-160):
Brightness-40:
Contrast-60:
Saturation-50:
Hue-45:
Sharpness-0
backlight down to 50.

Xcalibur_255 7.27.07

Brightness - 48
Contrast - 74 (trust me)
Color - 54
Tint - 50 (worthless control)
Sharpness - your preference, recommend 25-40 for SD cable
Backlight - your preference, recommend 0-10 for dim room, 20-30 for bright
room
Color Temperature - WARM, if you take one piece of advice it should be this
one.

sweh 7.31.07

Brightness=47
Contrast=80
Saturation=58
Hue=55
Sharpness=18
Backlight=30

cheerful 8.01.07

Brightness 45. I can't get the outer box to disappear so I settle at close value
Contrast 75 -- If go by the test, should be 80
Saturation 50
Hue 51
Sharpness 10
Backlight 0
DC off

OtherSimon 8.03.07

With DC ON:
Brightness:32
Contrast:75
Saturation:57
Hue:50
Shapness:0
Backlight:0
Temp:Warm

With DC Off:
Same results.

This is on a 360 Elite, in the HDDVD drive, on HDMI2. Reference Levels on Standard on the 360.

bhazard 8.27.07

Brightness - 42
Contrast - 58-60
Saturation -45-55
Dynamic Contrast "ON" - when watching anything with grass (football, baseball, golf), DC works extremely well. With DC off, adjust brightness and contrast higher.
Color Temp - Warm

x84HurstOlds 9.17.07

Bright = 61 (43 for HD-DVD from HTPC)
Contrast =74
Hue = 50
Sat = 50
Sharp = 0
Backlight = 20 (usually, plus or minus 10 sometimes)
Temp = Warm.

Detailed color settings are at their defaults (128).

i got tired of searching heres all posted calibration settings from avs
users
(search the poster and dates for usage)
...

Nice, thanks!

Later,

Alex

Hi All,

I am having a very weird problem with my TV. It does not show closed caption when I connect using YPbPr1 or YPbPr2 connection. I get closed caption when I use normal TV or A/V source but then I do not get HD TV. I do not have HDMI cable so I am not sure if HDMI will show closed caption. I will appreciate if someone can help me with this issue.

Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know why there is a white line across the top of my TV? i just recently bought the 47" Westing house TX series. It only shows up on some channels, i don't know if its the channel that does it or if it is the TV messing up. Since i have bought the TV i did not make any adjustments to the color or anything.

Any type of help would be amazing!

Does anyone know why there is a white line across the top of my TV? i just recently bought the 47" Westing house TX series. It only shows up on some channels, i don't know if its the channel that does it or if it is the TV messing up. Since i have bought the TV i did not make any adjustments to the color or anything.

Any type of help would be amazing!

I just got my TX47 as well and I'm getting the same white bar at the very top of the screen. It only appears on some channels.

I just got my TX47 as well and I'm getting the same white bar at the very top of the screen. It only appears on some channels.

better get used to it. its the joys of having a 1:1 pixel mapping display.
but on a side note your stb setup plays a factor as well what are you using ?

better get used to it. its the joys of having a 1:1 pixel mapping display.
but on a side note your stb setup plays a factor as well what are you using ?

what is a STB? i dont know tvs well at all. sorry

I'm having compatibility issues with PlayStation 3. I've been getting the blackout flashes like many of you, but my problem is worse. As of the 1.90 update, my PS3 stopped working with my TV at all for HDMI. The unit itself is fine as it still worked with my Sanyo via HDMI. 1.93 fixed it, but I still had the blackout flashes. 2.01 has broken it again. I emailed Sony and Westinghouse and neither has gotten back to me. Has anyone else had this issue?

what is a STB? i dont know tvs well at all. sorry

stb = set top box (cable box)


I'm having compatibility issues with PlayStation 3. I've been getting the blackout flashes like many of you, but my problem is worse. As of the 1.90 update, my PS3 stopped working with my TV at all for HDMI. The unit itself is fine as it still worked with my Sanyo via HDMI. 1.93 fixed it, but I still had the blackout flashes. 2.01 has broken it again. I emailed Sony and Westinghouse and neither has gotten back to me. Has anyone else had this issue?

i had that problem as well, i bought a nicer HDMI cable than the supplied time warner one and attached the PS3 to moved the ps3 to port 1 problems went away completely. you could as a last resort go to the 1080p component cables.

i had that problem as well, i bought a nicer HDMI cable than the supplied time warner one and attached the PS3 to moved the ps3 to port 1 problems went away completely. you could as a last resort go to the 1080p component cables.

Does anyone familiar with this know how a cable can make a difference? component isn't a good option for me because they don't upscale DVDs and this unit seems to screw up aspect rations on wide 480P material by taking roughly the top and bottom 5% off the screen. Does everyone else's do that?

Does anyone familiar with this know how a cable can make a difference?

like i said it made a difference for me to get a different cable.

quality, and build specs.. theres a whole section on avs about hdmi and the differences

well...I've had this tv for a bit over a week now, the 47 inch. So far I'm extremely pleased, with some exceptions. One...the speakers/subwoofer sounds horrible in some tv shows. I never have the problem on xbox360 or through the HD-DVD A3 player, but only on some tv, just sounds horrible, like a cheap system in a chevy corsica banging the hell out of the trunk :-).
Second... Some of my SD channels look like complete garbage, barely worth watch, they looked 100 times better on my old SDTV, but, I try to look past that and chaulk it up mainly to the fact that cable sucks, my cable provider blows and I will probably be switching to Dish very soon. I do have very few, free HD channels and those look...freaking gorgeous.
Right now i have my computer also hooked up through VGA and, it's only set on 720p, it won't go to 1080p, but im thinking thats more my computer than anything.
I have my Xbox setup through component, but i'm really debating throwing it on VGA, though i'd have to find another way to setup my computer.

Anyone at all have any advice for making SD channels look any better? I'm guessing there's no real way to do that.

I am having a very weird problem with my Westy. It does not show closed caption when I connect using YPbPr1 or YPbPr2 connection. I get closed caption when I use normal TV or A/V source but then I do not get 1080p. I do not have HDMI cable so I am not sure if HDMI will solve this problem. I will appreciate if someone can help me with this issue.

Thanks in advance.

@New_user, what are you trying to see closed captioning on? Is this with DVDs? Just use the subtitles instead.

Thanks for your reply Ace_of_Sevens.

In DVDs I use subtitles but I want to see closed caption on Optimum cable. I called Optimum and they said that their HDTV set to box does not display closed caption as this should be functionality of the TV. When I connect my TV using TV or A/V input then I can see closed caption but when I use YPbPr1 or YPbPr2 inputs then no closed caption is displayed.

i got a HD cable box from my cable provider comcast.

i got a HD cable box from my cable provider comcast.

check the advanced setup options for the video output.

my box from twc was setup to show upconverted output on all channels orignally and 50% of them had lines atop the screen.

its best to have the box show all the content at it native res and had the tv convert it.

i posted this setup way back for the 8300 box

Thanks for your reply Ace_of_Sevens.

In DVDs I use subtitles but I want to see closed caption on Optimum cable. I called Optimum and they said that their HDTV set to box does not display closed caption as this should be functionality of the TV. When I connect my TV using TV or A/V input then I can see closed caption but when I use YPbPr1 or YPbPr2 inputs then no closed caption is displayed.

Just a guess, but maybe the CC info is not being transfered when using the YPbPr connections.

Just a guess, but maybe the CC info is not being transfered when using the YPbPr connections.

Yes CC info is not being transferred when using YPbPr. I changed YPbPr cables but I am still not getting CC. I want to know whethere this is know issue or either my TV YPbPr or my Set Top Box YPbPr sockets are not working properly. Please can someone confirm that CC works when YPbPr is used.

So far no lockups on "normal" power mode (5 days) - going to switch back over to "E.saver" mode and see if the lock ups return.


TV Lockup =

(1) remote not responding while the TX is on - only way to shut it down is to unplug it or hold down the power button for 10 to 15 seconds for a reboot.
(2) Turning on the th TX after being off for a while, you first get the amber LED then the "W" logo - it goes away and you get no display, amber LED is still on. Same steps above to resolve this issue

:confused:

@new_User, IIRC, compnent can't carry cc info. That's what I was getting at.