Final update: I received my warranty replacement set from Westinghouse. They did not honor any of my requests. I'm not so bent out of shape about not getting my exact unit back, but my request to receive a true equivalent was also ignored. I received the cheaper revision of the tv with the VA mode panel and the inferior video processor. There is a very noticeable difference between this and the IPS panel. Real world contrast is noticeably worse, everything looks washed out at the properly calibrated settings. Worse, this panel I received looks like garbage pure and simple. I've got severe banding (3 wide bands down the middle just like the Sharp panels from a couple of years ago), and they are visible at any brightness level. There is minor clouding and color variations throughout the entire screen, and noticeable backlight shine out of all 4 corners. The left and right sides of the panel are way brighter than the middle on a black screen. I'd say at least 20% lighter, enough for it to look silly. One minor plus is that when viewed straight on the black levels are actually slightly better. Just barely enough to mention it as a plus. Shadow detail is very slightly better as well, though it's still awful overall. Ironically enough there isn't a single dead pixel. As expected of a VA mode panel the viewing angles are horrible. Viewed from 60 degrees to the side the panel is so washed out there is almost no color. The IPS panel, in contrast, looked excellent at this angle. Only the black areas would turn grey. The viewing angle is so narrow that the angle of vision from left to right as I'm sitting directly in front of it causes colors to appear lighter at the sides of the panel. That's gotta be, what 10-15 degrees at most? This panel is cheap crap and is so inferior to the one this tv was designed with that Westinghouse should be embarrassed and ashamed of itself for trying to save a dime in this way.

Video processed by the internal processor looks softer and has more artifacts now. I also notice motion blur, something I never noticed once with the IPS panel tv that died. If you touch the tv something in the base squeaks, the casing on the back is cracked, and the finish is rubbed off the front of the bezel in 3 places. I got a real winner of a refurb unit. I WANT this one to die so I can just throw it in the trash and go buy a Pioneer plasma like I should've from the start instead of being a cheapskate.

It also came with the 1.3 firmware, and I was highly amused to find what appears to be black electrical tape covering up the service/USB port. Classy stuff.

I'll keep the thing simply because I cannot go around blowing money on tvs all the time, but I'm really hoping this thing dies in about a year so I can get rid of it without guilt and buy a quality set.

I should also note, that Westinghouse support was helpful and prompt from beginning to end and the turn around time was reasonable. They have good people working there, just too much cost cutting and a lack of quality control brings down the house.

This junk panel is most likely what is shipping in all or at least most of the TX's on store shelves now, so I absolutely cannot warn people enough to stay away from the set now. This kind of cheap panel is also in other cheap brands, not just Westinghouse, but you should be doing yourself a favor and spending just a little bit more to get a tv that's worth the effort. Caveat Emptor.

Its not always the "cheap" brands that have problems every brand does. I recently got(and then returned) a crappy Sony brand new unopened box from Best Buy that sounds much worse than your refurb as far as how everything looked on it. Theres always going to some people out of thousands of TV's sold that get a defective one theres just no way to give 100% guarantee everything will work perfectly. I got a defective Sony defiantly not a cheap brand at more than double the price of the Westinghouse. My choices given to me by Sony when I called them was more or less tough luck. They said it turns on and shows whatever source I give it it's not our problem if you can't see it from a 5 degree angle to either side you should have paid another grand for the "new improved" model. So it got returned to Best Buy got half the money back and got the 47" Westhinghouse that looks 1000 times better than the Sony.

thanks for the responses.. what about the other glitches noted? the image shaking or twiggering? PS3 compatibility?

in your opinion, how does the PQ on the westy compare with other displays?

think i should return the insignia just based on the fact it doesnt have as many settings?


also... anyone know if i return this and get the westy and realize i like the insignia better... will best buy let me return it AGAIN to get the insignia back...?

thanks for the responses.. what about the other glitches noted? the image shaking or twiggering? PS3 compatibility?

in your opinion, how does the PQ on the westy compare with other displays?

think i should return the insignia just based on the fact it doesnt have as many settings?


also... anyone know if i return this and get the westy and realize i like the insignia better... will best buy let me return it AGAIN to get the insignia back...?

Why not just go buy the Westy, see which one you like better, then return the other one?

Why not just go buy the Westy, see which one you like better, then return the other one?


you mean buy both and return the one I dont like?

not enough money or credit to do that :(

Trying to use the quick channel preset buttons on the remote results in the set locking up on a fairly consistent basis too. That seems to be a new and annoying addition with this firmware version.

I bought the 42 at Best Buy last week. It has firmware 1.2 installed.........I haven't updated it.........yet. One thing I have noticed, it seems to improve with each viewing..........or am I just 'seeing' things!!?? I do wish the sharpness control could go farther (IE: stops at 100) as I don't see much--if any improvement from 0-100. (just a bit) If I get the frimware ver. 1.3 will this improve? I have no other problems with it other the sharpness issue.

I do the same thing all the time with thinking it looks better or worse. Last night it looked terrible to me for some reason. I was watching basketball and usually the floor is very bright and shiny looking but it just looked dull and washed out. The players looked to bright. I checked my settings multiple times and nothing was changed. So I checked the other channels and they didn't look as good either. I just figured it must be my imagination.

guys, as i mentioned i bought an insignia ns-lcd42hd... im thinking of returning it. i like it a lot but i feel the westinghouse may be better

to save me reading through 159 pages or info, can anyone tell me the bottom line on the westinghouse tx 42"?

are the problems resolved? does it still have that large list of issues?

not sure if i should keep the insignia (which is a bit washed out cause you cant adjust the backlight) or swap it for the westy...

thanks...

Everything on the TV I have is fine other than the PS3 issues. Basically my 360 Elite does everything it is supposed to with zero error. My PS3 on the other hand has a weird screen shake at 1080p, not at 720p though. Also, the Blu Ray movies I watch in 1080p via the PS3 have no screen shake issues so I do not feel like getting a refurbed piece of crap and gamble away an otherwise pristine set -- most of my gaming is on the 360. I have no banding, no lockups, or backlight bleeds in the corners or any of the other problems people mention. Besides, you have 30 days to evaluate the set if you buy from Best Buy so you would know within a few hours of setup if there are any problems and you can take the set back for exchange with no hassle if you get a boner of a set.

Later,

Alex

Everything on the TV I have is fine other than the PS3 issues. Basically my 360 Elite does everything it is supposed to with zero error. My PS3 on the other hand has a weird screen shake at 1080p, not at 720p though. Also, the Blu Ray movies I watch in 1080p via the PS3 have no screen shake issues so I do not feel like getting a refurbed piece of crap and gamble away an otherwise pristine set -- most of my gaming is on the 360. I have no banding, no lockups, or backlight bleeds in the corners or any of the other problems people mention. Besides, you have 30 days to evaluate the set if you buy from Best Buy so you would know within a few hours of setup if there are any problems and you can take the set back for exchange with no hassle if you get a boner of a set.

Later,

Alex

thanks.

im going nuts... one moment i think the insignia looks fantastic and then other times i think it doesnt.

other than PQ/backlight issue, the only other thing i can think of is that the westy has 2 more HDMI ports and has PIP.

also, how is the viewing angle? i notice that the darks get a lot brighter when i get to moderate viewing angles on my insignia.

do you know if best buy will let me exchange sets multiple times? if i return the insignia to try the westy, will they let me return the westy back for the insignia if i liked the insignia better?

thanks again... im driving myself nuts, here...

thanks for the responses.. what about the other glitches noted? the image shaking or twiggering? PS3 compatibility?

in your opinion, how does the PQ on the westy compare with other displays?

think i should return the insignia just based on the fact it doesnt have as many settings?


also... anyone know if i return this and get the westy and realize i like the insignia better... will best buy let me return it AGAIN to get the insignia back...?

I would never buy an insignia myself just based on past problems with them some stuff is ok but it just seems so poorly made/inspected. If I where you I would return it if you don't know if you want the westinghouse you could always just get your money back or always try it out if you don't like it you could return that too. I don't think there is a problem even if you liked the insignia better you should be able to return the westhinghouse for the insignia again. Could always call BB and ask them for certain.

cronuss - I do not have issues with the PS3 and the westy (I use the 42" TX). I won't say I haven't had issues, but for whatever reason after last Sony firmware update...handshake issue gone.

No frosty You do NOT unpack that file!!

Ok. Thanks! I'll give it a go.

thanks guys

anyone know how the westinghouse 42" TX 1080p compares with say, a Samsung 37" 1080p A550 model? i have a chance to grab that samsung for about the same price as i can get the westy/insignia

thanks guys

anyone know how the westinghouse 42" TX 1080p compares with say, a Samsung 37" 1080p A550 model? i have a chance to grab that samsung for about the same price as i can get the westy/insignia

If your under 40" and further than a couple of feet from the TV you won't notice a difference between 1080p and 720p. In the end it's going to be up to you what you like the best look at the Samsung display model if there is one maybe you can decide between the 2 by looking at them in store. I always play with them at the stores before buying anything. Especially at Best Buy they have a bad habit of adjusting and working on the higher dollar stuff to make it look better than the cheaper stuff; but also do that to try to sell low end crap that no one would normally buy. I always like to either grab the remote and adjust and mess with the settings on stuff see what it really can do for myself rather than believe the hype from salesmen that 99% of the time know nothing about what they are selling and the real differences between them.

If your under 40" and further than a couple of feet from the TV you won't notice a difference between 1080p and 720p. In the end it's going to be up to you what you like the best look at the Samsung display model if there is one maybe you can decide between the 2 by looking at them in store. I always play with them at the stores before buying anything. Especially at Best Buy they have a bad habit of adjusting and working on the higher dollar stuff to make it look better than the cheaper stuff; but also do that to try to sell low end crap that no one would normally buy. I always like to either grab the remote and adjust and mess with the settings on stuff see what it really can do for myself rather than believe the hype from salesmen that 99% of the time know nothing about what they are selling and the real differences between them.

I tried to mess with the settings, but they were 3 TVs high up on the wall... I asked for a remote and the salesmen said they didn't have one for either set...

one other question:

is it a mistake to buy the 42" TX right now?

isnt it a bit old and might be clearance soon and also replaced by a newer better model?

ugh...

I tried to mess with the settings, but they were 3 TVs high up on the wall... I asked for a remote and the salesmen said they didn't have one for either set...

Either ask for a manager or throw a fit telling them they are going to lose a customer for life and everyone you know till they get you a remote. It's not like they don't have enough remotes around they could even grab another with a universal remote and program it work with any TV there. Always some way to get people to do what you want/need them to do especially when its a major purchase like a TV they need to understand its not something you buy new all the time and you'd like to choose to spend your money in their store but if they cant accommodate you then you can spend your money elsewhere.

I've read through so many pages of this board and tried so many things. Anyways..

I can't get ANY of my HDMI ports to work with either my PS3 or Charter HD reciever, about 2 weeks ago my Charter reciever was working through HDMI. I switched to Component until I had time to mess with it.

I now have boughten a PS3 and want to run it on HDMI, but I can't get it to pick it up.

I've upgraded the firmware on the TV, and the PS3, unplugged everything else, unplugged the tv several times. Tried different orders of turning things on, I can't seem to get anything to work.

Anyone else have any other suggestions?

I've read through so many pages of this board and tried so many things. Anyways..

I can't get ANY of my HDMI ports to work with either my PS3 or Charter HD reciever, about 2 weeks ago my Charter reciever was working through HDMI. I switched to Component until I had time to mess with it.

I now have boughten a PS3 and want to run it on HDMI, but I can't get it to pick it up.

I've upgraded the firmware on the TV, and the PS3, unplugged everything else, unplugged the tv several times. Tried different orders of turning things on, I can't seem to get anything to work.

Anyone else have any other suggestions?

I had that trouble right after firmware update and couldn't get it to work either for me everything else worked fine but not HDMI. I re-did the same firmware update and then it worked again.

I have the 47" and I've noticed that my firmware is at 1.1.0. Does anyone have release notes or otherwise know if it's worth it for me to upgrade to 1.3.0? The reason I ask is that it seems I need my serial number to register and download the firmware and this is a big pain since my TV is on the wall.

I have the 47" and I've noticed that my firmware is at 1.1.0. Does anyone have release notes or otherwise know if it's worth it for me to upgrade to 1.3.0? The reason I ask is that it seems I need my serial number to register and download the firmware and this is a big pain since my TV is on the wall.

There are links if you look in this thread I think that link to the downloads you need for the update you should be able to do a direct download without registering or maybe someone would be nice enough to send it to you. With the 1.1 you need to update to 1.2 and then 1.3 though.

You need to get you're serial number off the TV if you want to update the firmware. Your serial ties to the components you have in your TV. As there are multiple versions of the firmware the only way to ensure you get the version that won't bork your TV is by entering your serial number.

If you can fit a mirror behind the TV or possibly a digital camera and take a picture then you can avoid taking your TV off the wall mount, otherwise I wouldn't recommend updating the firmware without knowing for sure what your serial number is.

Hmmm, what's harder... searching through 4000 posts in a thread or taking the TV off the wall?

Also it seems crazy that the model number wouldn't change if there is a change in components. At least mark it as a revision or something. Oh well...

Thanks All

My TV locks up *every* time I manually switch to the PC input. If the TV auto senses input and switches then it works fine. I have to pull the plug on the TV and turn it back on.

I have the 5110_110 BIOS.

I'm working around it right now by hooking my HTPC up via HDMI, but it just seems wrong when a Microsoft OS is more stable than my TV :p

Any suggestions? I haven't seen anyone else reporting this problem.
This was the same exact issue I logged on to check for.

Every time I switch to the PC input on my 47", the TV locks up. I then have to pull the power cord.

It is a pain as I have my 360 hooked up via VGA and when trying to switch back and forth it does not work. Not thrilled about having to pull the power plug so often. That's bound to wreck something on the TV.

Anyone know of any fixes? Firmware update maybe?

This was the same exact issue I logged on to check for.

Every time I switch to the PC input on my 47", the TV locks up. I then have to pull the power cord.

It is a pain as I have my 360 hooked up via VGA and when trying to switch back and forth it does not work. Not thrilled about having to pull the power plug so often. That's bound to wreck something on the TV.

Anyone know of any fixes? Firmware update maybe?

My TV came with the 1.2 firmware it seemed to work fine and since I seen I could download and revert back to it I updated to the 1.3 and it so far works perfectly fine too. It shouldn't hurt to try a new firmware I mean it couldn't get worse than it already is.

My black turning red issue from a few pages back is at it again. I had come to the conclusion that it was the settings so I have changed to about where everyone else on here seems to have them and I'm still seeing weird redness. I have noticed that it is much more visible if you aren't straight on from the TV. Yesterday I was watching boxing in HD and when the camera would pan out to the crowd half of it was red.

I also noticed when watching a movie that hair was turning red again but when I would move to the center of the screen it kind of go away. I tried to take pictures but wasn't able to get a good enough picture of it.

I notice it mostly with hair and things not being focused on by the camera. It it usually something dark too like black hair or a crowd in a dark section of the arena. Anybody else see this I'm trying to figure out if something is wrong?

My black turning red issue from a few pages back is at it again. I had come to the conclusion that it was the settings so I have changed to about where everyone else on here seems to have them and I'm still seeing weird redness. I have noticed that it is much more visible if you aren't straight on from the TV. Yesterday I was watching boxing in HD and when the camera would pan out to the crowd half of it was red.

I also noticed when watching a movie that hair was turning red again but when I would move to the center of the screen it kind of go away. I tried to take pictures but wasn't able to get a good enough picture of it.

I notice it mostly with hair and things not being focused on by the camera. It it usually something dark too like black hair or a crowd in a dark section of the arena. Anybody else see this I'm trying to figure out if something is wrong?

That doesn't sound normal to me I notice none of that on mine I even use it in a completely light controlled room so its very dark when I am using it and notice no color changes when I am displaying dark stuff. I'd take it back if you just got it recently and still have that option or have to deal with warranty stuff if your past being able to take it back to the store. I would have taken mine back for sure if it looked like that and just exchanged it for the same thing.

I played the game today... took the TV down from the wall and wrote down the serial and the part number. The serial number wasn't enough for the website to know which model I have so it's a good thing I wrote it down.

Tried both model #'s and it said no firmware was available. Great....

So I have a TW-51201-L047A ... does anyone know if these direct downloads have been validated against this part no?

cronuss - I do not have issues with the PS3 and the westy (I use the 42" TX). I won't say I haven't had issues, but for whatever reason after last Sony firmware update...handshake issue gone.

My PS3 issues have improved dramatically since the 2.20 firmware update as well. Still have a 1 - 2 pixel thick line at the bottom of the screen that flashes white with the PS3. Does not do it in movies or games, just the XMB.

-- Alex

So far I can't really tell a difference between 1.2 and 1.3 after some extended viewing. The dynamic contrast is actually fully off now. The set does appear to have some DC like an old CRT though. Its strange but not noticeable unless you make it happen. My SDTV image has improved a small amount. Now if only the wife would quit asking me about the white lines in the TV broadcast so I can stop explaining it over and over again..LOL

That doesn't sound normal to me I notice none of that on mine I even use it in a completely light controlled room so its very dark when I am using it and notice no color changes when I am displaying dark stuff. I'd take it back if you just got it recently and still have that option or have to deal with warranty stuff if your past being able to take it back to the store. I would have taken mine back for sure if it looked like that and just exchanged it for the same thing.

Yeah I still have a week or two to return it so I'll go to Best Buy today and look into it. I got the 4 year extended plan after that.

Hi, guys,

Thanks for all your informative posts.

Can someone tell me the benefits of doing a firmware upgrade? I'm somewhat hesitant to change it as I don't have any real issues and I can't see the serial number from the way it's mounted. Does it make the menus look prettier like on the 32" model?

Thanks!

Diz

I don't think it changes the menu, really. What changes depends on what firmware you've got right now. Through the various updates, we've gotten the ability to actually turn off the Dynamic Contrast, the option of adjusting every display setting instead of just one, and I've recently seen the audio profiles being linked to display settings, but I am not sure if that has always been there or if it was including in one of the updates. There are downsides, too- people have reported lower-quality SD picture, and not being able to output 5.1 from HDMI. We really should look into making a list of what has noticeably changed in between firmware updates, or hounding Westinghouse for a list.

Agreed! Maybe we can then get the OP to post it in the beginning of this thread perhaps? Great idea.

Xcalibur_255

Sorry to hear about the RMA process not going as well as you had hoped for. Per Final Update (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13610949&postcount=4749)
and the situation you are experiencing with the remote.. why can you not, or have you not expressed your dissatisfaction to Westinghouse, and demanded satisfaction? Inquiring minds what to know!:confused:

Final update: I received my warranty replacement set from Westinghouse. They did not honor any of my requests. I'm not so bent out of shape about not getting my exact unit back, but my request to receive a true equivalent was also ignored. I received the cheaper revision of the tv with the VA mode panel and the inferior video processor. There is a very noticeable difference between this and the IPS panel. Real world contrast is noticeably worse, everything looks washed out at the properly calibrated settings. Worse, this panel I received looks like garbage pure and simple. I've got severe banding (3 wide bands down the middle just like the Sharp panels from a couple of years ago), and they are visible at any brightness level. There is minor clouding and color variations throughout the entire screen, and noticeable backlight shine out of all 4 corners. The left and right sides of the panel are way brighter than the middle on a black screen. I'd say at least 20% lighter, enough for it to look silly. One minor plus is that when viewed straight on the black levels are actually slightly better. Just barely enough to mention it as a plus. Shadow detail is very slightly better as well, though it's still awful overall. Ironically enough there isn't a single dead pixel. As expected of a VA mode panel the viewing angles are horrible. Viewed from 60 degrees to the side the panel is so washed out there is almost no color. The IPS panel, in contrast, looked excellent at this angle. Only the black areas would turn grey. The viewing angle is so narrow that the angle of vision from left to right as I'm sitting directly in front of it causes colors to appear lighter at the sides of the panel. That's gotta be, what 10-15 degrees at most? This panel is cheap crap and is so inferior to the one this tv was designed with that Westinghouse should be embarrassed and ashamed of itself for trying to save a dime in this way.

Video processed by the internal processor looks softer and has more artifacts now. I also notice motion blur, something I never noticed once with the IPS panel tv that died. If you touch the tv something in the base squeaks, the casing on the back is cracked, and the finish is rubbed off the front of the bezel in 3 places. I got a real winner of a refurb unit. I WANT this one to die so I can just throw it in the trash and go buy a Pioneer plasma like I should've from the start instead of being a cheapskate.

It also came with the 1.3 firmware, and I was highly amused to find what appears to be black electrical tape covering up the service/USB port. Classy stuff.

I'll keep the thing simply because I cannot go around blowing money on tvs all the time, but I'm really hoping this thing dies in about a year so I can get rid of it without guilt and buy a quality set.

I should also note, that Westinghouse support was helpful and prompt from beginning to end and the turn around time was reasonable. They have good people working there, just too much cost cutting and a lack of quality control brings down the house.

This junk panel is most likely what is shipping in all or at least most of the TX's on store shelves now, so I absolutely cannot warn people enough to stay away from the set now. This kind of cheap panel is also in other cheap brands, not just Westinghouse, but you should be doing yourself a favor and spending just a little bit more to get a tv that's worth the effort. Caveat Emptor.

X,
Man that really sucks - I am sorry to hear the mess you you are going trhough with this TV

I also encourage others to stay away from this set - spend a little more, do your research and you may end up with a better product.


Best of Luck - Westinghouse suck:mad:

I also encourage others to stay away from this set - spend a little more, do your research and you may end up with a better product.

Or a more expensive TV with a different set of problems.

Just sayin' :D

Or a more expensive TV with a different set of problems.

Just sayin' :D

Exactly I originally spent more than 2x the price of a Westinghouse and ended up with a lemon got the Westinghouse 47" and it's great compared to the problems the Sony gave me. Their customer service wasn't much better they would send someone out to fix it but then after it was fixed my warranty would go from a year to 90 days so forget that got 1/2 my money back and still loving this Westinghouse.

So sorry to hear this X, I love my TX42, the IPS panel is fantastic, and now I live in panic over it dying.

I've altered the design of my custom entertainment center to include a sealed area for the TV, with a large airfilter and cooling fan to keep plenty of clean cool air running through it. I can't see anything dying as long as I keep it cool and happy with nice clean power as well.

I'll be sticking with the original firmware, no point is looking for trouble where there isn't any.

If they still made REAL TX42's, I'd be a strong cheerleader, but this news puts them in the no-friggin-way catagory.

Ditto my little 24" Westy, it is a good MVA panel, and the new/replacements are all TN panels from them now, so if either breaks Im screwed.

Im watching the Sox game on Nesn-HD right now and the colors are just fantastic, I would seriously miss this image quality.

For what its worth, my brother picked up the 52" Samsung 120hz model and it is also very very nice... albeit twice the price of the TX42.

I kept messing with the settings and have gotten some of the red to go away. I had to turn up the brightness a little bit to 47 and I turned down the red in calibration. I also decided that the red is only very noticable from angles. Problem is that with my room set up all but two seats are at an angle so maybe I should have went with a Plasma. When I went to Best Buy yesterday I did notice that the Westy in there also was doing a little bit of the red at an angle.

Since my room is set up where most seats are at an angle I tried to talk them into using my 10% off coupon to exchange on a Hitachi plasma but it was on clearance so they wouldn't so then I tried on an LG plasma and they wouldn't because it was a "powerbuy." Either of these TV's would cost me another $400 or so without the coupon. I don't feel like either of these TV's have a $400 better picture than the Westy other than they don't have the red issue. The only other choice in my price range is the Insignia 50" plasma but they don't have it so I couldn't see it before buying. The Insignia is made by LG and got great reviews on BB's website, much higher than the Westy. However Cnet and the users gave it a bad review so I'm having trouble deciding. Anybody on here have experience with the Insignia 50 plasma?

Exactly I originally spent more than 2x the price of a Westinghouse and ended up with a lemon got the Westinghouse 47" and it's great compared to the problems the Sony gave me. Their customer service wasn't much better they would send someone out to fix it but then after it was fixed my warranty would go from a year to 90 days so forget that got 1/2 my money back and still loving this Westinghouse.

Cars,
Best of luck with this set - hope you got a good one. I sure did not.:confused:

Xcalibur_255

Sorry to hear about the RMA process not going as well as you had hoped for. Per Final Update (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=13610949&postcount=4749)
and the situation you are experiencing with the remote.. why can you not, or have you not expressed your dissatisfaction to Westinghouse, and demanded satisfaction? Inquiring minds what to know!:confused:

It doesn't seem to be the remote at fault, it's the television. I've given up using favorite channels because it's too buggy. It will even shift the "learned" channel around at random, but mostly the tv hard locks when any of those buttons are pressed and will require a firmware reboot. At this point I don't feel complaining to Westinghouse would resolve anything. If I replaced the unit again odds are pretty fair that the next replacement will be just as bad. I do feel somewhat ripped off, but I had reservations about buying a budget brand when I took the plunge and I knew the risk. You live and learn. :)

So sorry to hear this X, I love my TX42, the IPS panel is fantastic, and now I live in panic over it dying.

I've altered the design of my custom entertainment center to include a sealed area for the TV, with a large airfilter and cooling fan to keep plenty of clean cool air running through it. I can't see anything dying as long as I keep it cool and happy with nice clean power as well.

I think you've nailed it with the airflow comment. I have a strong suspicion that the failure was heat related in my last set. The board is passively cooled, and I must admit the room mine was in did get quite warm because the primary heat source for the house was there as well. The solder connections between the panel interface and the display controller must have warped from getting too hot and eventually broke. That would be consistent with the behavior of the set as it was failing too. If true then my replacement will probably fail in a similar period of time.

Hey,

Does anybody know if there is a way to find the part number with the on screen display? A service rep told me no. It will be such a pain to pull it off the wall and I can't seem to get a mirror or camera up in there. Just trying to do the upgrade.

Thanks!

Not that I know of. I just took mine off the wall but with my mount it only took like 4 minutes.

FYI with the PS3 2.30 update, I no longer have the blinking line on my TX-42 set, still have a slightly jumpy image but otherwise all is finally well!

Later,

Alex

Not that I know of. I just took mine off the wall but with my mount it only took like 4 minutes.

You're quite a wiz with that - 4 minutes! I actually managed to tilt it up and shove a camera up far enough to get a pic of it.

But, now I've found that none of my thumb drives are slim enough to reach into the USB service port! Oh, well, I have a USB extension cable somewhere.

By the way, I don't know if anyone else confirmed this yet, but it certainly does seem that my TX-42 has the Trident CX processor. It was in the verbage of one of the documents I unpacked within the firmware update for my part number. Perhaps it was in the kernal or something, I can't remember exactly.

Cheers!

BTW, Does anyone know whether the SusanII 1.3 firmware will provide control of the subwoofer? Does anyone know whether the set even actually HAS a subwoofer for those of us who bought the set last fall with the 1.2 Sept firmware and a screen with square (non-chevron shaped) pixels and the Trident CX processor? As many have noted, it's greyed out in the menu. I wonder if there even IS a sub in my unit...

Thanks!

You're quite a wiz with that - 4 minutes! I actually managed to tilt it up and shove a camera up far enough to get a pic of it.

But, now I've found that none of my thumb drives are slim enough to reach into the USB service port! Oh, well, I have a USB extension cable somewhere.

By the way, I don't know if anyone else confirmed this yet, but it certainly does seem that my TX-42 has the Trident CX processor. It was in the verbage of one of the documents I unpacked within the firmware update for my part number. Perhaps it was in the kernal or something, I can't remember exactly.

Cheers!

Not really it's just loosen two screws, unplug the cords and lift off the mount. Maybe my mount is different.

BTW, Does anyone know whether the SusanII 1.3 firmware will provide control of the subwoofer? Does anyone know whether the set even actually HAS a subwoofer for those of us who bought the set last fall with the 1.2 Sept firmware and a screen with square (non-chevron shaped) pixels and the Trident CX processor? As many have noted, it's greyed out in the menu. I wonder if there even IS a sub in my unit...

Thanks!

I don't think there is.

BTW, Does anyone know whether the SusanII 1.3 firmware will provide control of the subwoofer? Does anyone know whether the set even actually HAS a subwoofer for those of us who bought the set last fall with the 1.2 Sept firmware and a screen with square (non-chevron shaped) pixels and the Trident CX processor? As many have noted, it's greyed out in the menu. I wonder if there even IS a sub in my unit...

Thanks!

I think don't quote me the Sub control is to connect an external sub to the TV ...I think there is a sub out on the back of the TV. If you hook one up it wouldn't be greyed out anymore.

I think don't quote me the Sub control is to connect an external sub to the TV ...I think there is a sub out on the back of the TV. If you hook one up it wouldn't be greyed out anymore.


i don't think so....would be nice haha

i haven't seen one

Hey,

Does anybody know if there is a way to find the part number with the on screen display? A service rep told me no. It will be such a pain to pull it off the wall and I can't seem to get a mirror or camera up in there. Just trying to do the upgrade.

Thanks!

look on your box the tv came in (if you still have it!), there should be some white labels that list these numbers

i don't think so....would be nice haha

i haven't seen one

Ah looked at the info for certain on it the only control you should have for the sub is on or off nothing else.

If I replaced the unit again odds are pretty fair that the next replacement will be just as bad. I do feel somewhat ripped off, but I had reservations about buying a budget brand when I took the plunge and I knew the risk. You live and learn. :)

I have either a lot to learn from you yet..(which I do):o
Or I have a lot to teach you...(which I do);)
Or we can live and let live ... (which we will do):D

So, here's to you and hoping for a paradigm shift at Westinghouse.

I have been encouraged by a couple of people to seek reimbursement, but that felt extreme to me. I received a working replacement, so from that point of view anything is an uphill battle. If my theory on the failure is correct this one will die right around Christmas and I can get a good deal on something else. :)

And yes, always plenty to learn from each other. I regret not posting as much anymore, but it's become so much harder to find concrete information the guts of these tvs anymore.

I have been encouraged by a couple of people to seek reimbursement, but that felt extreme to me. I received a working replacement, so from that point of view anything is an uphill battle. If my theory on the failure is correct this one will day right around Christmas and I can get a good deal on something else. :)

And yes, always plenty to learn from each other. I regret not posting as much anymore, but it's become so much harder to find concrete information the guts of these tvs anymore.

If your not satisfied with what you have working or not you should definitely seek reimbursement. Just have to really think the way the economy is going most don't have a ton of money to throw around on "frivolous" things like TV's and that if they can't give total satisfaction with your purchase then you shouldn't have to pay for it.

I have been encouraged by a couple of people to seek reimbursement, but that felt extreme to me. I received a working replacement, so from that point of view anything is an uphill battle. If my theory on the failure is correct this one will die right around Christmas and I can get a good deal on something else. :)

And yes, always plenty to learn from each other. I regret not posting as much anymore, but it's become so much harder to find concrete information the guts of these tvs anymore.

I'd be curious as to how to seek reimbursement. I bought one of these sets last summer and things have started to annoy the hell out of me (lockups, that pink line, HDMI handshakes) But I don't want to trade for an inferior unit. My set still works, and I enjoy it most of the time, but if it dies I don't want to try one of the inferior versions.

I'd be curious as to how to seek reimbursement. I bought one of these sets last summer and things have started to annoy the hell out of me (lockups, that pink line, HDMI handshakes) But I don't want to trade for an inferior unit. My set still works, and I enjoy it most of the time, but if it dies I don't want to try one of the inferior versions.

The only way would be to call Westinghouse they would then probably send out a refurb that may or may not be better than what you have. At that point is when you would have to try to get a refund because you tried it their way and still weren't satisfied so you should be able to get what you paid back.

My TX47 just died - standby mode problem.

It was one of the very first batches sent out (before BB had put them out on display).
So I am feeling very concernd about what I might get back from a RMA due to the way Xcalibur_255 has been treated, and hearing that there are sub-par models floating around.

Any advice before I call in the RMA?

(EDIT) - Xcalibur_255: After reading all your posts about it failing after 10months, box being cut up, etc. It's all a little to similar to my situation.... spooky !

My TX42 is still going strong (knock wood) but now I'm in a real quandry. A freind has asked for advice on a new TV and I just dont know what to say. It is for her mother, an elderly lady who would be freaked and calling me if the thing freezes.

It will be used with Comcast for now, so I know I can set the cablebox to shift the green line off the right hand side a few pixels. And if I kill the 4:3 overide then the SD to HD to SD channel switching will likely not cause the lockup.

I would turn off the dynamic contrast, no power saving, and no standby mode to avoid any death by those means. And autosource is too likely to get things messed up so that's out as well.

But the real kicker is, what panel type will she get at Bestbuy right now? Was the original an S-IPS as I've read, or a P-MVA? And are the new units TN? Or is there the ability to get a good panel new TV?

Any other brand/model recommendations in the sub $1400 range that don't have these issues the Westy has?

This topic area has become so confusing I don't know where to start, with dozens of threads by model number of TV's I have know idea about.

At least I can still find the TX Westy topic :D

My TX42 is still going strong (knock wood) but now I'm in a real quandry. A freind has asked for advice on a new TV and I just dont know what to say. It is for her mother, an elderly lady who would be freaked and calling me if the thing freezes.

It will be used with Comcast for now, so I know I can set the cablebox to shift the green line off the right hand side a few pixels. And if I kill the 4:3 overide then the SD to HD to SD channel switching will likely not cause the lockup.

I would turn off the dynamic contrast, no power saving, and no standby mode to avoid any death by those means. And autosource is too likely to get things messed up so that's out as well.

But the real kicker is, what panel type will she get at Bestbuy right now? Was the original an S-IPS as I've read, or a P-MVA? And are the new units TN? Or is there the ability to get a good panel new TV?

Any other brand/model recommendations in the sub $1400 range that don't have these issues the Westy has?

This topic area has become so confusing I don't know where to start, with dozens of threads by model number of TV's I have know idea about.

At least I can still find the TX Westy topic :D

Best thing you could do was just recommend a good brand new un opened Sony or Samsung just of course smaller than the Westy for about the same price.

My TX42 is still going strong (knock wood) but now I'm in a real quandry. A freind has asked for advice on a new TV and I just dont know what to say. It is for her mother, an elderly lady who would be freaked and calling me if the thing freezes.

It will be used with Comcast for now, so I know I can set the cablebox to shift the green line off the right hand side a few pixels. And if I kill the 4:3 overide then the SD to HD to SD channel switching will likely not cause the lockup.

I would turn off the dynamic contrast, no power saving, and no standby mode to avoid any death by those means. And autosource is too likely to get things messed up so that's out as well.

But the real kicker is, what panel type will she get at Bestbuy right now? Was the original an S-IPS as I've read, or a P-MVA? And are the new units TN? Or is there the ability to get a good panel new TV?

Any other brand/model recommendations in the sub $1400 range that don't have these issues the Westy has?

This topic area has become so confusing I don't know where to start, with dozens of threads by model number of TV's I have know idea about.

At least I can still find the TX Westy topic :D

Jack,
I was in a similar situation with an elderly neighbor. I had the TX47 model but did not want to recommend it to them because of the issues I personally experienced with it. I recommended a Sony Bravia KDL-40V3000 40-inch 1080p LCD HDTV which they picked up at 6th Ave Electronics for $1299.99. They could'nt be happier. They have had it for sometime now and I have not heard a single complaint. I was over the other day and they were so happy they bought this set as another neighbor right next door picked up an Olevia for less money and it only lasted 2 months before it died.

I say stick with the name brands for now.

Best of Luck

Does anyone else get vertical banding with HDMI but not anything else?

My TX42 is still going strong (knock wood) but now I'm in a real quandry. A freind has asked for advice on a new TV and I just dont know what to say. It is for her mother, an elderly lady who would be freaked and calling me if the thing freezes.

It will be used with Comcast for now, so I know I can set the cablebox to shift the green line off the right hand side a few pixels. And if I kill the 4:3 overide then the SD to HD to SD channel switching will likely not cause the lockup.

I would turn off the dynamic contrast, no power saving, and no standby mode to avoid any death by those means. And autosource is too likely to get things messed up so that's out as well.

But the real kicker is, what panel type will she get at Bestbuy right now? Was the original an S-IPS as I've read, or a P-MVA? And are the new units TN? Or is there the ability to get a good panel new TV?

Any other brand/model recommendations in the sub $1400 range that don't have these issues the Westy has?

This topic area has become so confusing I don't know where to start, with dozens of threads by model number of TV's I have know idea about.

At least I can still find the TX Westy topic :D

You should recommend something else, even if it means sacrificing size or features. The biggest problem with the TX series is that their operating firmware has too many quirks. Casual owners do not want to put up with lockups and other funky behavior. If you buy a set now you will get an MVA panel in all likelihood. No LCD tv over 32" in size will ever have a TN panel, at least I hope it never will. As of this moment this is fact, but the newer Chinese LCD producers are making TN panels in larger sizes all the time in their constant race to the bottom of the barrel in terms of both price and quality.

I recenty purchased the TX-47, and have it hooked up to a DirectTV-HDDVR, and and HD-DVD (A-30) via HDMI. And I have noticed that with both, any dark or low light scenes are very pixelated and what appears to be a light fog. Are any others noticing this? My previous tv was a Westinghouse 32" HD Monitor (720p) and the picture seemed much clearer and had no problems with low light scenes and pixelation. Am I missing something? I also have noticed that viewing the tv from any angle than directly in front, the picture is distorted and somewhat hazy. Just wondering. I have contacted Westinghouse, and they said I should exchange it, since I'm still within the return policy at BB. Just want to make sure before I go through the hassle. The firmware has been updated to 1.3.

I recenty purchased the TX-47, and have it hooked up to a DirectTV-HDDVR, and and HD-DVD (A-30) via HDMI. And I have noticed that with both, any dark or low light scenes are very pixelated and what appears to be a light fog. Are any others noticing this? My previous tv was a Westinghouse 32" HD Monitor (720p) and the picture seemed much clearer and had no problems with low light scenes and pixelation. Am I missing something? I also have noticed that viewing the tv from any angle than directly in front, the picture is distorted and somewhat hazy. Just wondering. I have contacted Westinghouse, and they said I should exchange it, since I'm still within the return policy at BB. Just want to make sure before I go through the hassle. The firmware has been updated to 1.3.

I not too long ago got the same TV I notice none of these issues with mine no distortion from the side or problems when stuff is dark I'd defiantly exchange it for another. Even if you get another one and it has some problem keep exchanging it till you get one that is bug free.

I'm really considering purchasing the TX-42F430S and was hoping someone would summarize this thread and save me the trouble of going through and reading the whole thing.

What issues could I run across after I purchase it?
Any other problems with the TV?

Should I purchase through a store with an extended warranty? Thanks guys.

Mitch

I think the consensus is, the earlier models of this TV were great, when they had the trident processor, and the IPS panel. Now they have a cheaper processor, and an MVA panel I think. You'd be happier if you spent your money on something a little nicer. If your looking for something closer to the TX price range, look at LG or a plasma.

I would stay away from plasma, they suffer from burn-in and use twice as much power as LCD. Unless you happen to get your electricity for free.

My son and I both bought a TX-42 in November, and both of them have been working fine ever since. I've got a VCR plugged into the composite input, a Wii on the component, and all 4 HDMI ports are being used by a PVR computer, a Motorola HD-DVR box, Xbox 360, and an upconverting DVD player. Every now and then I'll switch inputs and get a green screen (usually on the PVR). Turning on the DVD causes it to switch to that input and when I switch back, the green screen is gone. This is the only glitch I've seen, and 97% of the time, it doesn't happen. It's probably because the PVR computer and the DVR are always outputting a signal to the HDMI hub, and they're fighting over it. :-)

They don't suffer burn-in like they used to, and they're power consumption is about the same as an LCD. LCD's power consumption is static, while a plasma's usage isn't. With a plasma, it all depends on whats running on the screen, as each pixel has its own light source.

Panasonic actually has some really nice, well priced 42in 1080P plasma's out right now.

I recenty purchased the TX-47, and have it hooked up to a DirectTV-HDDVR, and and HD-DVD (A-30) via HDMI. And I have noticed that with both, any dark or low light scenes are very pixelated and what appears to be a light fog. Are any others noticing this? My previous tv was a Westinghouse 32" HD Monitor (720p) and the picture seemed much clearer and had no problems with low light scenes and pixelation. Am I missing something? I also have noticed that viewing the tv from any angle than directly in front, the picture is distorted and somewhat hazy. Just wondering. I have contacted Westinghouse, and they said I should exchange it, since I'm still within the return policy at BB. Just want to make sure before I go through the hassle. The firmware has been updated to 1.3.

If you've got problems with low light scenes viewed from directly in front, try playing with your brightness and contrast settings. There's some real sensitivity there - on the set I've got, brightness=50 looks great, brightness=52 starts to ruin very dark colors while "clipping" very bright colors, and brightness=whatever-it-shipped-with looks atrocious.

If you've got problems with low light scenes viewed from the side, well, so do I. This panel seems to look great for light colors all the way up to 90 degrees from perpendicular, but dark colors start getting washed out (which can make "pixellated" MPEG artifacts obvious) if viewed more than around 30 degrees from perpendicular. If that's a problem for you, I don't think there's a solution short of "buy a more expensive TV".

If you've got problems with the picture when viewed from in front no matter how you calibrate it, then exchange it.

They don't suffer burn-in like they used to, and they're power consumption is about the same as an LCD.


I beg to differ. After looking at both web sites, here is what I came up with:

Westinghouse TX-42F430S 42" LCD: 250 Watts

Panasonic VIERA TH-42PZ85U 42" Plasma: 573 Watts

More than double. I rest my case.


Panasonic actually has some really nice, well priced 42in 1080P plasma's out right now.

I'm sure the TH-42PZ85U is nice. For a $1799 list price, it should be!

I beg to differ. After looking at both web sites, here is what I came up with:

Westinghouse TX-42F430S 42" LCD: 250 Watts

Panasonic VIERA TH-42PZ85U 42" Plasma: 573 Watts

More than double. I rest my case.




I'm sure the TH-42PZ85U is nice. For a $1799 list price, it should be!

And you missed my point. Its not using 573 watts all the time, like the LCD is using 250 constantly. 85U is a waste when you can get the 80U cheaper, with the same features. This isn't the place for this arguement anyways, so I rest my case as well.

thanks guys

anyone know how the westinghouse 42" TX 1080p compares with say, a Samsung 37" 1080p A550 model? i have a chance to grab that samsung for about the same price as i can get the westy/insignia

A lot of people seem to be asking this and I have to echo other sentiments expressed here: I *love* my TX-47, I am fortunate to have the Trident/IPS "early" model...and even so, I'm now worried that it will die like Tyrell's.

When you ask if these are good TV's, it's very hard to say because Westinghouse has mucked about so much, changing internal components (new ones being much inferior to the old) in order to save a buck. So anyone who is asking that, please be aware that it is kind of a trick question, and the answer will depend on what particular panel/internal components the person who answers has, as well as on the luck of the draw in terms of quality control.

At the very best, even the early models have serious quality-control issues. The new ones I personally would not recommend to anyone, and I especially would not myself buy one. Despite how good my set is, a company that would do the things they have done with this model, and the way they have handled XCalibur255's replacement, among other things, have scared me away. Not to mention I ended up getting a PS3 and am real annoyed by the dropouts ;)

The other thing to keep in mind is that prices have come down since this model was introduced...on all LCDs. 1080P plasma is out. OLED isn't practical yet, but will be. Point being, if you shop carefully, you can probably find something better that is within your budget...or at least it should be easier to do so now than it was a year ago. There's always the chance that spending less now could cost you more in a year or so...I hope that doesn't happen to me, but it's still possible. So, if you are in your last year of med school and are expecting a big raise, this is the TV for you, otherwise...:D

Ed

Xcalibur_255,

Sorry to hear the bad news man. I was on this thread also from about the very beginning and I guess I am one of the fortunate ones to have gotten the trident/ips combination. I didn't realize things went downhill so badly, and they played "musical components" with different things to drive the cost down.. :(

I am a little concerned now of course with my own set, and just had a quick question about your settings.. Did you have the power savings settings set to "On" so that the LCD did a "hard boot" per say every time it started up? Or, did you have it "Off"? I recall reading in this thread or somewhere that a setting of E saver "Off" didn't actually turn any of the electronics off in the TV, except for the backlight, which is why it drained so much energy even with the set turned "off." I have E Saver setting set to "On," so hopefully that'll prevent the excessive heat from killing the video processor..?

Sorry to hear about your problems. Seems like there are some strange things going on with these sets.. Best of luck!

Not to mention I ended up getting a PS3 and am real annoyed by the dropouts

Are you using the HDMI1 input for your ps3? I've stuck with this input and it results in minimal signal drops, but the occasional flicker at times is annoying. There's certainly something off, but I've been fortunate to have this be my only headache with this set. I remember some of us complaining about the poor gamma which seemed like "DC restoration" in CRT's, but that seems to be the least of our worries these days..

My TX47 just died - standby mode problem.

For those of you that are having your TX's die.. Are you using the E.saver mode set to "On"? I'm not sure what the "standby mode" problem is..?

just wondering if the tx42 has PIP capabilities. If so, are there different types of PIP on this tv?

no PIP

I think X has got the right idea. As one of the more recent buyers of the TX series, I can say that If I had read this thread before hand, I would have never bought this TV. I got extremely lucky that I got one of the older panels. I do use the E saver mode. I have never had a lockup or anything of the sort and the display is fantastic. Now, I can tell you that my cable box locks up about 4 times a day. I do not use the tuner on this TV and I believe that that is where the problems lie. It is apparent that the tuner is of faulty design. If you do buy a TX series, don't use the tuner. Also, Bring a 30x loupe and inspect the display model. If it has the IPS panel, see if you can get the display. If not, buy an Olevia. On that note, I got lucky and I am extremely satisfied.

before i go out and buy the tx42 pretty soon, i want to clear up this question. I want to use my 5.1 surround sound system with the tv, along with my comcast digital cable box, and my xbox 360. If i plug in the cable box and the xbox straight into the tv via hdmi, and i hook up the tv to the surround sound, will the tv send out the 5.1 signal for my xbox and cable box to the surround sound system?

if i understand correctly, the new panels for the tx42 are breaking allot and unreliable, but the older tx42 panels are better. When i go to best buy to buy it what exactly do i look for on the box to make sure its a somewhat reliable panel.

before i go out and buy the tx42 pretty soon, i want to clear up this question. I want to use my 5.1 surround sound system with the tv, along with my comcast digital cable box, and my xbox 360. If i plug in the cable box and the xbox straight into the tv via hdmi, and i hook up the tv to the surround sound, will the tv send out the 5.1 signal for my xbox and cable box to the surround sound system?

Nope...HDMI standards won't allow it. You could try a toslink switcher, or splitter...

For those of you that are having your TX's die.. Are you using the E.saver mode set to "On"? I'm not sure what the "standby mode" problem is..?

I've always kept the Energy Saver on...it takes a little longer to "boot up", but I've never experienced the lockups others have mentioned. And the set doesn't generate any appreciable heat when it's off.

Are you using the HDMI1 input for your ps3? I've stuck with this input and it results in minimal signal drops, but the occasional flicker at times is annoying. There's certainly something off, but I've been fortunate to have this be my only headache with this set. I remember some of us complaining about the poor gamma which seemed like "DC restoration" in CRT's, but that seems to be the least of our worries these days..

No, I have thought about that - the problem is, I was also having occasional (not as often as the PS3, IIRC) drop-outs with my S3 Tivo. So, I have to decide - is it worth having dropouts when I'm watching TV...and/or when the wife or kids is watching TV...so far I think not, though it sure is tempting at times. The PS3 is off and on as well, sometimes its mostly fine and sometimes it's just unbearable. I need to get my model number, too, and see if a firmware upgrade is available - though I'm more than a little nervous about that! :(

Hey guys, I am new to this forum and am wondering if you could lend me a helping hand...?

I have had my Westinghouse for around 6 months now, and I have really enjoyed it. I am quite impressed with it, or I was until recently. You see I hooked my PS3 up to it, and it looks great, but when it is hooked up through the HDMI cables and the PS3 is on 1080p the screen shakes, it can some times be hard to notice and other times I can notice nothing but the damn shaking. It is REALLY visible on the PS3 menu screen. I was wondering if there is any fix to this? I have heard if you switch to component cords it fixes the problem, but is there a way to fix the problem and let me still use my HDMI cords for the true 1080p experience?

I would appreciate any help you guys can give me...

Ok, I have had my Westy for 10 months now. I am loving it even more so now that I finally calibrated the colors and backlight/contrast (I was using the standard settings that it came with and got my hands on an HDDVD calibration disc)

All I have to say is there was a night and day difference in the picture quality.

The only issue I have is that my firmware is still the original firmware. I had tried previously to update the firmware and tried with 3 differrent USB thumbdrives and non of them worked.

Anyone know why this could be?

Nope...HDMI standards won't allow it. You could try a toslink switcher, or splitter...
Yeah I heard that the Toslink from the TV only sends out the 5.1 of the OTA HD broadcast but that was it.

If only we were able to do that, it would solve MANY a headache for me.

Hey guys, I am new to this forum and am wondering if you could lend me a helping hand...?

I have had my Westinghouse for around 6 months now, and I have really enjoyed it. I am quite impressed with it, or I was until recently. You see I hooked my PS3 up to it, and it looks great, but when it is hooked up through the HDMI cables and the PS3 is on 1080p the screen shakes, it can some times be hard to notice and other times I can notice nothing but the damn shaking. It is REALLY visible on the PS3 menu screen. I was wondering if there is any fix to this? I have heard if you switch to component cords it fixes the problem, but is there a way to fix the problem and let me still use my HDMI cords for the true 1080p experience?

I would appreciate any help you guys can give me...


upgrade to the latest firmware, or try changing the resolution then changing back in the ps3 menu. had the same problem, but it hardly ever happens with the latest firmware update.

I updated my firmware, finally. No unplugging of anything is necessary.
Step1. Follow the directions on the site to obtain your firmware.
Step2. You have to start with a blank memory stick. Add the two files from the archive.
Step3. Turn off the TV. Insert the memory stick. Turn the TV back on.
Step4. Wait. The light will flash purple for about 2 min. Then it will turn blue.
Step5. Remove the memory stick. Hold the power button on the side of the TV until the light turns amber.
Step6. Turn the TV back on. Enjoy.
Those are the instructions. No unplugging of anything.

Just like that. No you don't extract the compressed file in the zip. Yes the stick MUST be EMPTY except for the 2 files from the archive that is.

Ok i have the westy 47inch. I have a spider behind the screen. Small just traveling all over the place. this is so freakin crazy, just a crazy spider behind the screen. please anyone advise. How can I remove it? Can i attach a vacuum somewhere? this is nuts. $1300 TV down the drain because of a small crazy spider.

Thanks,
Roger

OMG Roger, that sucks man. I don't think the vacuum will work. You wont be able to get enough velocity. You could try compressed air. Failing that, you will have to pull the back off and clean it up or you could take it to the local TV shop and see if they will do it. Last but not least kill that damned spider! Just to clarify. Is it just the infernal arachnid or has it started a web?

Ok i have the westy 47inch. I have a spider behind the screen. Small just traveling all over the place. this is so freakin crazy, just a crazy spider behind the screen. please anyone advise. How can I remove it? Can i attach a vacuum somewhere? this is nuts. $1300 TV down the drain because of a small crazy spider.

Thanks,
Roger
HAHAHAHAHA thats hilarious!!! do you see a little shadow of a spider crawling around on your screen all day?

For those of you that are having your TX's die.. Are you using the E.saver mode set to "On"? I'm not sure what the "standby mode" problem is..?

Mine was on - this was fine until i moved the TV to another room and hooked it directly to the cable (rather then the DVR over component).

... Still waiting to hear back from Westinghouse support. They are arranging with BB as to how to proceed (replace, repair, refund). At leat i wont have to ship it to CA (just drop it off at local BB)

Thanks for the info TL. I just want to know what to avoid doing so my TV doesn't die.. lol One more question for you.. were you using analog cable or using the built in QAM tuner to pickup the unencrypted local HD channels? I'm feeling quite lucky in the sense that I actually purchased the extended warranty from bestbuy. Hopefully I won't have to use it, but I was very lucky for ultimately deciding to buy it for this set (so I can rest easy).

Just like that. No you don't extract the compressed file in the zip. Yes the stick MUST be EMPTY except for the 2 files from the archive that is.

Is this for the 42 or 47? I had been extracting the file, so you are saying to leave the file zipped?

Ok, I have had my Westy for 10 months now. I am loving it even more so now that I finally calibrated the colors and backlight/contrast (I was using the standard settings that it came with and got my hands on an HDDVD calibration disc)

All I have to say is there was a night and day difference in the picture quality.

Can you post your settings? I know a ton of them have been posting in the past, but I'm always wanting to try others to find the "right" one.

Can you post your settings? I know a ton of them have been posting in the past, but I'm always wanting to try others to find the "right" one.

I been trying to find a good setting myself since all HDMI 1-4 to seems to all be one setting it kinda sucks since everything I own is connected to HDMI(PS3, Xbox 360, HD Dish Network). I really should throw in a Blu Ray in the PS3 and see if any of my movies have a calibration screen on them. Doesn't 300 have one?

Is this for the 42 or 47? I had been extracting the file, so you are saying to leave the file zipped?

I have the 47

I tried a Dell 256 MByte usb drive without success.

I bought a Sony 2 BGyte drive that I found out when I got home that had compression software on it. However it worked. I put the full compressed file on the upper level, I also decompressed and put that info on the upper level. Finally that had compressed info that I put on the upper level. Thus, all three compressed states were on the upper (root) level and it worked. I didn't get a status message on the screen at first but after 30 sec or so the light changed color, starting flashing etc, eventually worked. I think.

Is this for the 42 or 47? I had been extracting the file, so you are saying to leave the file zipped?

leave the following files untouched and just copy them to your flash drive...

update_LCD1080CX.tgz
safe-kernel.img1

these two files will be unpacked from the original file SusanII_v1.*.*.*****.rar file you downloaded from the firmware update page from westinghouse

Hey guys, I am new to this forum and am wondering if you could lend me a helping hand...?

I have had my Westinghouse for around 6 months now, and I have really enjoyed it. I am quite impressed with it, or I was until recently. You see I hooked my PS3 up to it, and it looks great, but when it is hooked up through the HDMI cables and the PS3 is on 1080p the screen shakes, it can some times be hard to notice and other times I can notice nothing but the damn shaking. It is REALLY visible on the PS3 menu screen. I was wondering if there is any fix to this? I have heard if you switch to component cords it fixes the problem, but is there a way to fix the problem and let me still use my HDMI cords for the true 1080p experience?

I would appreciate any help you guys can give me...

I have had the same problem. I minimized the screen shake issues by upgrading to the latest firmware for both the TV and the PS3. Try that and post back to let me know how it went, alternatively you can PM me.

-- Alex

Anybody know if and when we will be getting new a new firmware update for the TX-42?

-- Alex

are there any compatibility issues with sony home theater or bose home theater systems with the westy.

So, I have the westy 47inch, xbox 360, ps3, and would like to get a home theater system to get the whole surround sound experience.

Sony has some nice ones... are there optimal ones that work best with the TV or some that I should avoid.
Are there any reviews of theater systems that work best with the TV. any advice.
thanks,
Roger

are there any compatibility issues with sony home theater or bose home theater systems with the westy.

So, I have the westy 47inch, xbox 360, ps3, and would like to get a home theater system to get the whole surround sound experience.

Sony has some nice ones... are there optimal ones that work best with the TV or some that I should avoid.
Are there any reviews of theater systems that work best with the TV. any advice.
thanks,
Roger

If you list a price range your looking for you could get many suggestions as to what to get one thing I would say though is Bose is crap. When a company spends 95% on advertising and promoting their product and only 5% on actually making the product you have to know something is wrong with that. Also depending on your price range it's always better to go with a regular receiver and then add the speakers rather than buying a "home theater in a box"(HTIB). If you buy a HTIB you may end up with a good receiver but the speakers are always lacking compared to buying them separately. The TV really shouldn't have any bearing on what audio components to buy all the TV does is display the video. It also depends how you hook up your PS3, 360 to your TV on what to suggest to get.

I beg to differ. After looking at both web sites, here is what I came up with:

Westinghouse TX-42F430S 42" LCD: 250 Watts

Panasonic VIERA TH-42PZ85U 42" Plasma: 573 Watts

More than double. I rest my case.




I'm sure the TH-42PZ85U is nice. For a $1799 list price, it should be!

573 is a worst case scenario with the set displaying a full white screen at maximum output. They have to list the maximum possible draw. Under real world usage the Kill-a-Watt proves the set only draws about 250 watts, more or less equal to the Westinghouse number. Then again, the LCD is ALSO listed as a worst case scenario. I run my TX at zero backlight and it draws under 100 watts in that scenario.

The street prices for the comparable 1080P Panny plasmas are only a couple hundred off from the cheapest 1080P lcd sets. They also are much better sets I'd have to say, even given the limitations of plasma.

Xcalibur_255,

Sorry to hear the bad news man. I was on this thread also from about the very beginning and I guess I am one of the fortunate ones to have gotten the trident/ips combination. I didn't realize things went downhill so badly, and they played "musical components" with different things to drive the cost down.. :(

I am a little concerned now of course with my own set, and just had a quick question about your settings.. Did you have the power savings settings set to "On" so that the LCD did a "hard boot" per say every time it started up? Or, did you have it "Off"? I recall reading in this thread or somewhere that a setting of E saver "Off" didn't actually turn any of the electronics off in the TV, except for the backlight, which is why it drained so much energy even with the set turned "off." I have E Saver setting set to "On," so hopefully that'll prevent the excessive heat from killing the video processor..?

Sorry to hear about your problems. Seems like there are some strange things going on with these sets.. Best of luck!

Yes, I used the E.Saver function and cold booted the set after the first month. My theory about what killed my set is only that, but it seems reasonable to me. It's actually very similar to what Xbox360 owners go through with their "red ring of death" in terms of what is failing and how. But again, it's nothing but guesswork on my part. What you read about E.Saver is correct. If it is off the unit functions 24 hours a day and only kills the lamps in the backlight. This is why it can offer that "instant on" response. I wouldn't tolerate the set operating on a 100% duty cycle so I began using E. Saver early on.

Can you post your settings? I know a ton of them have been posting in the past, but I'm always wanting to try others to find the "right" one.

I will post them tonight when I get home

I am also going to try a firmware upgrade as well(so I need my setting somewhere in case the revert to default)

I think X has got the right idea. As one of the more recent buyers of the TX series, I can say that If I had read this thread before hand, I would have never bought this TV. I got extremely lucky that I got one of the older panels. I do use the E saver mode. I have never had a lockup or anything of the sort and the display is fantastic. Now, I can tell you that my cable box locks up about 4 times a day. I do not use the tuner on this TV and I believe that that is where the problems lie. It is apparent that the tuner is of faulty design. If you do buy a TX series, don't use the tuner. Also, Bring a 30x loupe and inspect the display model. If it has the IPS panel, see if you can get the display. If not, buy an Olevia. On that note, I got lucky and I am extremely satisfied.

That isn't a bad idea actually. The Olevia 747i can be had for an insanely cheap price considering it has the Realta video processor. The panel used is the same LG IPS panel. I can't say for certain if it uses a wide gamut backlight or not, but the IPS panel clearly has a better color gamut than the cheaper MVA panel now in use. I don't know if Westinghouse is aware of it or not. Their original TX marketing materials boasted of a wide color gamut feature but they got quiet about it right after that. Colors on the MVA panel are just disappointing in comparison, particularly reds. For those unfamiliar with gamut, it is not the same as colur saturation or intensity. The MVA panel variant can't be coming close to hitting the NTSC or SMPTE color points, though I don't possess the equipment to back up what my eyes tell me.

For the record I never had any issues using the internal tuner in my set.

If you list a price range your looking for you could get many suggestions as to what to get one thing I would say though is Bose is crap. When a company spends 95% on advertising and promoting their product and only 5% on actually making the product you have to know something is wrong with that. Also depending on your price range it's always better to go with a regular receiver and then add the speakers rather than buying a "home theater in a box"(HTIB). If you buy a HTIB you may end up with a good receiver but the speakers are always lacking compared to buying them separately. The TV really shouldn't have any bearing on what audio components to buy all the TV does is display the video. It also depends how you hook up your PS3, 360 to your TV on what to suggest to get.

I want to spend around $500 dollars max. I would prefer to go with a HTIB. are there any good solutions you recommend for that price. I need it for xbox 360 (HD DVD movies), ps3 (blu ray movies), and of course the westy TV broadcasts. thanks for the BOSE info, i was actually leaning towards them. I use the xbox 360 VGA HD AV cable to the westy. HDMI for the PS3.

Thanks for the help,
Roger

I want to spend around $500 dollars max. I would prefer to go with a HTIB. are there any good solutions you recommend for that price. I need it for xbox 360 (HD DVD movies), ps3 (blu ray movies), and of course the westy TV broadcasts. thanks for the BOSE info, i was actually leaning towards them. I use the xbox 360 VGA HD AV cable to the westy. HDMI for the PS3.

Thanks for the help,
Roger


I would recommend staying away from HTIB (as you already have 2 DVD players--360 and PS3) and taking that extra cash and getting a decent receiver.

If you can pick up some decent 5.1 or even better a 7.1 speakers seperately I would recommend either of the following in your price range

Either (I am listing Best Buy prices - but these can probably be found for cheaper on the net)

Denon 1708 $499.98
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8355424&type=product&id=1176507246835

or the

Yamaha RX-V66 - $499.99
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8734596&type=product&id=1201913281190

Now I am assuming you are connecting the 360 and Ps3 via HDMI and the Sat/Cable as well. both of these only have 2 HDMI inputs so 1 of your sources will need to be connected via Component(I would recommend your Sat/cable as those are typically 720p or 1080i broadcast.)

For all you people that bought the tx 42 or 47 at Best Buy, can you tell me what the lowest BB price you have seen on either of the sets is?

Ive seen the TX 42 at BB for like $989.00 before.

I havent really been paying attention to the TX 47 prices at BB but now im thinking about spending the extra money to get the 47 over the 42? please tell me the lowest sale prices youve seen the 47 at.

I would recommend staying away from HTIB (as you already have 2 DVD players--360 and PS3) and taking that extra cash and getting a decent receiver.

If you can pick up some decent 5.1 or even better a 7.1 speakers seperately I would recommend either of the following in your price range

Either (I am listing Best Buy prices - but these can probably be found for cheaper on the net)

Denon 1708 $499.98
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8355424&type=product&id=1176507246835

or the

Yamaha RX-V66 - $499.99
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8734596&type=product&id=1201913281190

Now I am assuming you are connecting the 360 and Ps3 via HDMI and the Sat/Cable as well. both of these only have 2 HDMI inputs so 1 of your sources will need to be connected via Component(I would recommend your Sat/cable as those are typically 720p or 1080i broadcast.)

Hey, so my xbox 360 i connect to the TV via VGA HD AV Cable (PC input).
The PS3 is HDMI cable. Cable box is component HDTV. Can these receivers work with what my current setup? So for example... the PS3 would get hooked up via HDMI to the receiver... then from the receiver it would get hooked to the TV via HDMI also. (So i need 2 HDMI cables). is this correct? I dont know how receivers work. I just want easy 5.1/7.1 surround sound.

Hey, so my xbox 360 i connect to the TV via VGA HD AV Cable (PC input).
The PS3 is HDMI cable. Cable box is component HDTV. Can these receivers work with what my current setup? So for example... the PS3 would get hooked up via HDMI to the receiver... then from the receiver it would get hooked to the TV via HDMI also. (So i need 2 HDMI cables). is this correct? I dont know how receivers work. I just want easy 5.1/7.1 surround sound.

The cheapest seperate non HTIB setup I can suggest that should work for everything and be "future proof" for you would be:
Onkyo 605 receiver usually if you shop around online even on shopOnkyo they have it for around $300 refurbished.

For speakers
Polk R series
Fronts Polk R50's $59.99 each www.frys.com (http://shop4.outpost.com/product/4005092)
Center Polk CSR $79.99 www.frys.com (http://shop4.outpost.com/product/4966251)
Surrounds you can start with just 2 they are sold in pairs if you buy the R150's then add 2 more to get to 7 total speakers. $49.99(pair) www.frys.com (http://shop4.outpost.com/product/4965491?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)
Subs the best suggestion I can make for a sub everyone seems to love is a Bic H-100 Sub $250 www.amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006DNW6U/sr=8-3/qid=1210041154******olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1210041154&sr=8-3&seller=)

Of course you will be over the $500 you want to spend but if you add a piece at a time you will get a real quality system that will last you for a long time. Also you can upgrade speakers to the next level and have a big impact too the next I would go up to would be Polk Monitor 50 fronts and Monitor CS1 center the surrounds don't matter as much they could stay the same.

Ok here are my color adjustments

From the menu
Brightness.............45
Contrast...............65
Saturation............80
Hue.....................50
Sharpness.............75
Backlight...............20
Color Temp............Neutral

From the adjustment menu
3D Comb Filter........On
Skin Tone..............40
Color Temp.............R 128
............................G 128
............................B 128
Dynamic Contrast....Off
Black Adjustment....45
White Adjustment...65
Saturation.............80
Hue......................50

With the above settings, Colors are still vibrant, blacks are extremely improved(could be darker but then you sacrifice a bit on color vibrance) whites are still white(not bluish white) and no color bleed that I saw on test pattern

I use this setting for all my TV and movie watching. When I play games, I switch to Game setting on the TV so that the brightness is turned up to see better in the shadows.

Ok here are my color adjustments

From the menu
Brightness.............45
Contrast...............65
Saturation............80
Hue.....................50
Sharpness.............75
Backlight...............20
Color Temp............Neutral

From the adjustment menu
3D Comb Filter........On
Skin Tone..............40
Color Temp.............R 128
............................G 128
............................B 128
Dynamic Contrast....Off
Black Adjustment....45
White Adjustment...65
Saturation.............80
Hue......................50

With the above settings, Colors are still vibrant, blacks are extremely improved(could be darker but then you sacrifice a bit on color vibrance) whites are still white(not bluish white) and no color bleed that I saw on test pattern

I use this setting for all my TV and movie watching. When I play games, I switch to Game setting on the TV so that the brightness is turned up to see better in the shadows.

Almost the same settings here just little less on contrast and had my backlight on 30 because of the lesser contrast made it darker.

The cheapest seperate non HTIB setup I can suggest that should work for everything and be "future proof" for you would be:
Onkyo 605 receiver usually if you shop around online even on shopOnkyo they have it for around $300 refurbished.

For speakers
Polk R series
Fronts Polk R50's $59.99 each www.frys.com (http://shop4.outpost.com/product/4005092)
Center Polk CSR $79.99 www.frys.com (http://shop4.outpost.com/product/4966251)
Surrounds you can start with just 2 they are sold in pairs if you buy the R150's then add 2 more to get to 7 total speakers. $49.99(pair) www.frys.com (http://shop4.outpost.com/product/4965491?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)
Subs the best suggestion I can make for a sub everyone seems to love is a Bic H-100 Sub $250 www.amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006DNW6U/sr=8-3/qid=1210041154******olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1210041154&sr=8-3&seller=)

Of course you will be over the $500 you want to spend but if you add a piece at a time you will get a real quality system that will last you for a long time. Also you can upgrade speakers to the next level and have a big impact too the next I would go up to would be Polk Monitor 50 fronts and Monitor CS1 center the surrounds don't matter as much they could stay the same.
thanks another friend recommended onkyo also. I checked the website.. I can think i can affordf the 705 model + speakers? what do you think about the 705? Do i need a subwoofer? Can i buy the receiver fronts and center to start. Will everything work without a subwoofer?
THanks again

thanks another friend recommended onkyo also. I checked the website.. I can think i can affordf the 705 model + speakers? what do you think about the 705? Do i need a subwoofer? Can i buy the receiver fronts and center to start. Will everything work without a subwoofer?
THanks again

The newer model just came out too check out the 606(606S same thing but silver) it is cheaper than the 705 but its the newest model just came out this month had more HDMI inputs and other stuff too just not THX certified. It's fine to start out with receiver and fronts and center first everything will work fine you just won't get the full "surround sound" until you get it all together but the old phrase applies good things come to those who wait. Also be sure to shop around I use Ebay, Amazon, Frys, Newegg and all kinds of other places to find the best deals on what I am buying. When I got my Onkyo 605 I got it new for $300 shipped thanks to Ebay. Also if your going to buy a piece or pieces at a time it may pay to spent just a bit more too on speakers at least. If you do go with the Polk speakers it's not much more to change the fronts and center to the next level up and get much better sound too. The Polk R line is a great entry level but the next level up the monitor series is really a good upgrade and really for fronts its only $40 more each and center is really not much more like $5 more. The surrounds don't need to be changed R150's are fine no matter the change to the front/center.You can always add the sub and surrounds later the most important to the sounds being able to hear the voices and little details are the fronts and center center being the big one but always match the center and fronts too so they are the same speaker type.

Polk Monitor 50 $99 each www.frys.com (http://shop3.outpost.com/product/5569410;jsessionid=fMVTIpiFxA15tVRGbWYoSw**.node2?site=sr:SE ARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)

Polk Monitor CS1 center $84.34 www.frys.com (http://shop3.outpost.com/product/4101723?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)

Almost the same settings here just little less on contrast and had my backlight on 30 because of the lesser contrast made it darker.

Can you post up your settings? I want to try out different things to see what gives me the best black/white balance aand still maintains my colors

Can you post up your settings? i wnat to try out different things to see what gives me the best black/white balance

This all for HDMI sources of course I only use HDMI nothing else(PS3, 360 elite, HD Dish network receiver, PC) Except the Wii but rarely use that on the westy.

Brightness 44
Contrast 50
Saturation 45
Hue 50
Sharpness 75
Backlight 30
The rest is the same you have

My westy is also in a light controlled room is always dark no light on it so might make a difference too.

leave the following files untouched and just copy them to your flash drive...

update_LCD1080CX.tgz
safe-kernel.img1

these two files will be unpacked from the original file SusanII_v1.*.*.*****.rar file you downloaded from the firmware update page from westinghouse


Ok it finally worked, I am updated to the 1.3 version, from 10/2007. I did not see any other firmware out there to download.

This all for HDMI sources of course I only use HDMI nothing else(PS3, 360 elite, HD Dish network receiver, PC) Except the Wii but rarely use that on the westy.

Brightness 44
Contrast 50
Saturation 45
Hue 50
Sharpness 75
Backlight 30
The rest is the same you have

My westy is also in a light controlled room is always dark no light on it so might make a difference too.


We rarely have the light on in the room and blinds are always closed so lighting is not an issue either for me. I will try these out when I get home and let you know.

For all you people that bought the tx 42 or 47 at Best Buy, can you tell me what the lowest BB price you have seen on either of the sets is?

Ive seen the TX 42 at BB for like $989.00 before.

That's the lowest they had the 42 at BB, it's what I paid. I've seen them online at times for $700. BB didn't have a 47 so I don't know how low they have gotten.

Ok here are my color adjustments

From the menu
Brightness.............45
Contrast...............65
Saturation............80
Hue.....................50
Sharpness.............75
Backlight...............20
Color Temp............Neutral

From the adjustment menu
3D Comb Filter........On
Skin Tone..............40
Color Temp.............R 128
............................G 128
............................B 128
Dynamic Contrast....Off
Black Adjustment....45
White Adjustment...65
Saturation.............80
Hue......................50


Cool, thanks- I'm going to give these a shot tonight during Battlestar Galactica :p

That's the lowest they had the 42 at BB, it's what I paid. I've seen them online at times for $700. BB didn't have a 47 so I don't know how low they have gotten.

I picked mine up for $989 - 15%(for using BB card) + $119(4yr contract) = $1,038.82 total with tax (I have a TX 42)



Cool, thanks- I'm going to give these a shot tonight during Battlestar Galactica :p


No prob

That's the lowest they had the 42 at BB, it's what I paid. I've seen them online at times for $700. BB didn't have a 47 so I don't know how low they have gotten.

Actually, BB had the 42 for $949 around February. I went back and showed them my receipt from November and they refunded me $40 plus tax! The TX-42 is a steal at that price!

James

I got the 47" for $1169.10 when they where on sale for $1299 using a 10% off coupon.

I've got the 42" TX and I'm loving it, but I don't know much about setting up a TV. Could someone link me to where I can find the perfect settings for contrast, sharpness etc?

Everything I watch / play is over HDMI if that makes a difference.

Does anyone notice any difference using the sharpness control? I don't see any improvement at all from 0-100! I'm using HDMI for everything too...my caple box and my Blu-ray player.

Does anyone notice any difference using the sharpness control? I don't see any improvement at all from 0-100! I'm using HDMI for everything too...my cable box and my Blu-ray player.

Does anyone notice any difference using the sharpness control? I don't see any improvement at all from 0-100! I'm using HDMI for everything too...my cable box and my Blu-ray player.

The Sharpness control is pretty worthless.

I've got the 42" TX and I'm loving it, but I don't know much about setting up a TV. Could someone link me to where I can find the perfect settings for contrast, sharpness etc?

Everything I watch / play is over HDMI if that makes a difference.

I just tried out Nesto's settings last night (quoted below) and it looks very nice. Otherwise, you'd want to get a calibration disc and find the "right" settings that look best to you. And on that note,

Ok here are my color adjustments

From the menu
Brightness.............45
Contrast...............65
Saturation............80
Hue.....................50
Sharpness.............75
Backlight...............20
Color Temp............Neutral

From the adjustment menu
3D Comb Filter........On
Skin Tone..............40
Color Temp.............R 128
............................G 128
............................B 128
Dynamic Contrast....Off
Black Adjustment....45
White Adjustment...65
Saturation.............80
Hue......................50

This looks very nice, Nesto. Good call. I don't have much control over the lighting in my room during the day so I'll occasionally have to boost the backlight, but it stills look good.

leave the following files untouched and just copy them to your flash drive...

update_LCD1080CX.tgz
safe-kernel.img1

these two files will be unpacked from the original file SusanII_v1.*.*.*****.rar file you downloaded from the firmware update page from westinghouse

The file I just downloaded has update_WDE42.tgz and safe-kernel.img1.

I put it on a USB drive per the instructions, but the TV seems to be ignoring it :(

The file I just downloaded has update_WDE42.tgz and safe-kernel.img1.

I put it on a USB drive per the instructions, but the TV seems to be ignoring it :(


When you download it, the two files are in a .rar file.

Extract that intial .rar file straight to the USB. Now you should end up with a .rar file and the saf-kernal.img1 on it (do not exract the .rar file that is on the USB drive)

Unplug power cord from TV(I tried it with the cord plugged in and TV ignored it) - insert USB drive, plug power cord in, press power.

**************

Is that the process you followed?

This looks very nice, Nesto. Good call. I don't have much control over the lighting in my room during the day so I'll occasionally have to boost the backlight, but it stills look good.


If the blacks start looking gray or distorted witht the backlight up, tell me what level you have it at and I will play with my calibration disc this weekend to find suitable settings at your backlight level.

I've got the 42" TX and I'm loving it, but I don't know much about setting up a TV. Could someone link me to where I can find the perfect settings for contrast, sharpness etc?

Everything I watch / play is over HDMI if that makes a difference.

Do you have HDDVD or Bluray?

If so, this is the disc I use

HDDVD - http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Video-Essentials-Definition-Standard/dp/B000IHYY3Y******pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=dvd&qid=1210270042&sr=8-2 <-- I use this one

Bluray - (there is no Bluray of the above item -the closest is) - http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Video-Essentials-Basics-Blu-ray/dp/B000V6LST0******pd_bbs_1?ie=UTF8&s=dvd&qid=1210270042&sr=8-1

Here is info on the blurary disc
http://www.dvdtalk.com/reviews/32952/digital-video-essentials-hd-basics/

On the Sharpness issue.... seems to me, in 1:1 pixel matching, at 1080p, there would be nothing to sharpen.

Sharpness would come into play in scaling situations like when operating at lower resolutions. Set the TV to 720p and Ill bet Sharpness will have a noticable effect.

Doesn't having the backlight low, like < 40 crush details?

I have my TX47" backlight usually at 50, thinking that its a good compromise. When I've tried lower, it seems to lose details, but I will try some of the suggestions above when I get home.

p.

When you download it, the two files are in a .rar file.

Extract that intial .rar file straight to the USB. Now you should end up with a .rar file and the saf-kernal.img1 on it (do not exract the .rar file that is on the USB drive)

Unplug power cord from TV(I tried it with the cord plugged in and TV ignored it) - insert USB drive, plug power cord in, press power.

**************

Is that the process you followed?


My RAR file contained a .TGZ and a .IMG1 file which were both extracted to the root a freshly formatted USB drive. I unplugged the TV, plugged the USB in, then plugged the power cord in ...

At this point .. it doesn't seem to matter whether or not I press the power button, the TV comes on ...

.. and then comes on normally.

I figure my problem is either that it doesn't like the flash drive (somewhat ironic since the USB drive was from Microsoft...) or with the power on (i.e. when you plug your TV in does it automatically turn on or do you have to press the power button??)

Doesn't having the backlight low, like < 40 crush details?

I have my TX47" backlight usually at 50, thinking that its a good compromise. When I've tried lower, it seems to lose details, but I will try some of the suggestions above when I get home.

p.

Lowering the backlight can crush details if you do not adjust the other settings (ie Brightness,hue,contrast,saturation...etc)

If you adjust all of them with a calibration disc, you can still get some awesome detail and not sacrifice your black levels.

My RAR file contained a .TGZ and a .IMG1 file which were both extracted to the root a freshly formatted USB drive. I unplugged the TV, plugged the USB in, then plugged the power cord in ...

At this point .. it doesn't seem to matter whether or not I press the power button, the TV comes on ...

.. and then comes on normally.

I figure my problem is either that it doesn't like the flash drive (somewhat ironic since the USB drive was from Microsoft...) or with the power on (i.e. when you plug your TV in does it automatically turn on or do you have to press the power button??)

I know mine came on normally and then when I hit the power button my LED began blinking purple signifying the update.

I can say I went through 3 different USB drives before I found one that worked.

How do you get the service port open? I have a small plastic piece covering the port and can not get this out to save my life. Are there any tricks to getting this open?

Well, it seems to finnaly have happened to me.

TV just went black, disconnected everything but the antenna, it came back up to the big W. Tried unplugging again and now nothing but an amber led.

Dead as a doornail.

How does this RMA thing work? Guess no more IPS panel for me. I didn't buy the extended warranty from BB either, ugh.

After sitting overnight, it woke back up again.

After talking to Westinghouse to arrange warranty service, in my area they are servicing these through Bestbuy Inhome service. They have equiped the tech's with repair parts, and he specifically mentioned the power supply. Sounded like thats been happening alot.

The symptoms are in line with that, dying after hours of use, then powered off for hours, waking back up.... classic evidence of a bad electrolytic capacitor. It gets hot, shorts out enough to malfunction, then cools down and un-shorts. Rince repeat until eventually it shorts enough to go up in a puff of smoke.

So I look forward to the service call next week, I'll let them replace the powersupply and see what happens. But I dont want to lose either my good controller or my good panel. I'd rather say screw the warranty and put on my engineer hat and fix it myself, than be converted to one of the newer el-cheapo units. :D

How do you get the service port open? I have a small plastic piece covering the port and can not get this out to save my life. Are there any tricks to getting this open?

I just peeled mine off its just glued there...use a razor or something to get an edge up and peel away. I'm guessing u got yours refurb from ecost too?

I was able to get the port open and I tried to upgrade but here is what happened: I formatted the usb drive to fat32, unrared the firmware to the drive, unplugged the tv, put the drive in the tv, plugged it back in and hit the power button. The orange light stayed on for about 30 seconds then turned blue. I unplugged the tv and took out my usb drive, plugged the tv back up and now it won't turn on. I am stuck with an orange light and that is all I have. What can I do to revive the tv? I have a 4 year best buy warranty on it, what should I do?

You don't need to unplug it after the update just turn it off then back on. here is a copy and paste from the westy site...

1. With the power cord removed from the back of your Westinghouse TV, insert the USB thumb drive into the service port.

2. Plug the power cord into both the back of the TV and the wall outlet.

3. Press the Power/On button on the TV to begin your firmware update.

4. The status will be seen on your screen while the firmware is updating.
5. The Power LED indicator will turn to amber. After 30 seconds, it will begin to blink. After 3 minutes, it will turn blue.
6. Once the Power LED turns blue, your firmware upgrade is complete. Remove the USB flash drive.
7. Turn your TV off, then turn it back on to enjoy your new Westinghouse TV firmware.

I would do the upgrade again and not unplug it after it finishes you may have done that to early.

After leaving the unit unplugged for about an hour I got it to come back up. I have tried 3 different usb devices and none of these have upgraded the firmware. What type of usb drive do I need to have? I never see anything pop up on the screen regarding an upgrade.

Long time lurker first time poster.

Just purchased this TV from bestbuy since they are liquidating stock
picked up an open box deal for a price I couldn't resist but now im trying to update firmware/check which panel/processor I have

TW-51021-L047A
5120J722)1139

Build date 2007 april 2007
5110_1.1.0

I registered the product and tried getting the firmware update and it tells me there is none, but from what I've seen in this thread i should have 1.3. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong, I want to know if I get the CX files!

You got an april 2007 build just now? That sounds both lucky and suspicious at the same time. To answer your question you should have the good panel and processor, but it is quite easy to check for yourself. Get a white screen up and press your nose against the screen (not literally) until you can see the individual pixels. They should be shaped like chevrons as such: >>>

The MVA panel type uses traditional square pixels [] [] [] instead. If the set is working properly I wouldn't bother messing around with the firmware. My refurb set has the 1.3 update and the dynamic contrast went from mildly broken to obnoxiously broken for HD signals. It was not an improvement over the original firmware. They released it mostly to cover their butts on things like the audio toslink issue.

I was more worried about being able to disable dynamic contrast then using it in its broken state.

But if I read this properly the 1.1 will pass stereo sound over the toslink regardless of the source?

I was more worried about being able to disable dynamic contrast then using it in its broken state.

But if I read this properly the 1.1 will pass stereo sound over the toslink regardless of the source?

Nope 1.1 will not do that, I know mine did not. I think it was specific to certain builds(actual month)

Sweet mother of all that is holy ! IVE GOT THE CHEVRONS!

/dance

UPDATE: well if 1.1 doesn't do me the pleasure is semi useful toslink port i think id rather be able to disable Dynamic then

UPDATE: well if 1.1 doesn't do me the pleasure is semi useful toslink port i think id rather be able to disable Dynamic thenI think Nesto1 was referring to the fact that version number is not strictly relevant to your toslink-out capability. The important thing is build date, and you've hit the audio-out jackpot with your April 2007 set.

hrm ill have to give it a try when I pick up a toslink cable, but it will only pass through stereo sounds unless its the internal tuner correct?

I was more worried about being able to disable dynamic contrast then using it in its broken state.

But if I read this properly the 1.1 will pass stereo sound over the toslink regardless of the source?

Well, that's the problem. I don't use it nor do I want to. It does..... something to the video with HD feeds whether it's turned on or off. This is what I mean by broken, and it looks hideous.

QUick questions guys,

I'm starting to suspect my brand new tx47f430s might have an issue. Heres the problem: When I hook up my xbox360 via Component, the menu and games play fine at any setting (72op,1080i,1080p) BUT when I start a movie, and it outputs the vid at 480p, the picture jumps, cut's out, NO Image Detected, doubles, etc. Also, I have a dvd player that outputs via component, it does the same thing at 480p, BUT, if I change the player to 480i, it plays just fine. My SA 8400 HD box is going thru the component, and is fine. So, am I screwed on this? I just got it Sunday, plus got the 4yr Best Buy warranty. Thanks in advance.

PS. I'm sorry if this has been answered before, I searched but couldn't find anything.

I'm starting to suspect my brand new tx47f430s might have an issue. Heres the problem: When I hook up my xbox360 via Component, the menu and games play fine at any setting (72op,1080i,1080p) BUT when I start a movie, and it outputs the vid at 480p, the picture jumps, cut's out, NO Image Detected, doubles, etc. Also, I have a dvd player that outputs via component, it does the same thing at 480p, BUT, if I change the player to 480i, it plays just fine. My SA 8400 HD box is going thru the component, and is fine. So, am I screwed on this? I just got it Sunday, plus got the 4yr Best Buy warranty. Thanks in advance.I have had no problems playing DVDs on my 360 via component @ 480p, or playing games @ 1080p (never tried other resolutions). My TX-47 is June 2007 build, don't remember the firmware version.

I have had no problems playing DVDs on my 360 via component @ 480p, or playing games @ 1080p (never tried other resolutions). My TX-47 is June 2007 build, don't remember the firmware version.

It had the Sept 07 build, but I went and got the newest available, Oct '07. Still same problem. It seems to be just 480p thru component, so I'm thinking maybe something wrong with the component jacks (both sets are doing the same). Thankfully I got the 4yr plan, though I just bought it 2 days ago.

It had the Sept 07 build, but I went and got the newest available, Oct '07. Still same problem. It seems to be just 480p thru component, so I'm thinking maybe something wrong with the component jacks (both sets are doing the same). Thankfully I got the 4yr plan, though I just bought it 2 days ago.

I'd call, tell Best buy your problem tell them you want to bring it back then do so and before even taking it home I would make them open up the new one and try it out make sure it works first they should have a DVD or 360 or something to try through component or better yet if they tried a PS3 through component then they could also try through HDMI to make sure all 4 ports work and work right too.

I bought a westy 47 inch in April and I noticed since I have finally had time to watch it more that the right side of the screen is just slightly darker than the left with a distinct line of change directly down the middle of the screen. It is obviously only noticeable in very light colored scenes and and very white scenes, its bugging me. Can it be fixed on warranty or do I need to take it back to best buy on the service plan and get a new one. I tried changing hdmi inputs but its still the same

I bought a westy 47 inch in April and I noticed since I have finally had time to watch it more that the right side of the screen is just slightly darker than the left with a distinct line of change directly down the middle of the screen. It is obviously only noticeable in very light colored scenes and and very white scenes, its bugging me. Can it be fixed on warranty or do I need to take it back to best buy on the service plan and get a new one. I tried changing hdmi inputs but its still the same

Changing HDMI inputs on these TV's doesn't really do anything the HDMI in this TV is only a switcher really not separate inputs so don't expect that to do anything ever. Definitely would look into it if it has been less than the return window best to take care of it before that is up easiest to deal with then.

I have a serious question as I am not good with the whole deal of aspect ratios.

I have a Bluray player that does full 1080p, and have my 42" Westy full 1080p.

Now when I watch a movie, I would say 90% of them to not display on the entire screen but have the letterbox style where there are black bars on top and bottom.

I know I can change the aspect ratio on my TV to Overscan or fill, but do not want to as it does distort the picture slightly.

Now here is my question(or comment). Does this have to do with the aspect ratio of the movie?

Example: I have picked up several Blurays and all say Aspect ratio of 2.40:1 and have a couple of HDDVD movies that say 2.33:1 - these show up as mentioned above.

Why is it not full 16x9 if it is an HD movie?

I have come aross some movies that are 2.88(0):1 which fill the entire screen but those are far and few.

If your bars are at the top and bottom that is how the movie is supposed to be, as you said it's the aspect ratio of the movies. Movie theaters accomodate this by adjusting the curtains to hide the screen that is not used.

If your bars are at the top and bottom that is how the movie is supposed to be, as you said it's the aspect ratio of the movies. Movie theaters accomodate this by adjusting the curtains to hide the screen that is not used.


Ok that explains it then. Thanks for the simple clarification.

It is too bad studios do not produce the movies in full 2.88:1 ratio as to utilize the entire screen of a widescreen TV.

Its up to the studio to decide how they want to format the movie onto the Bluray 16x9 1920x1080 canvas. The movie is actually on the order of 8,000x4,000 resolution at a minimum... as it is atoms on a film stock.

Blade Runner for instance was re-authored from film, digitized at 4,000x4,000 and that was then squeezed onto a 1080p canvas. And it looks soooo good.

But the aspect ratio of the film was decided by the director and the studio when they made it, intended at the time for film projection in the movie theatres. 1080p lets us have a great subset of that experience at home.

I recently got a refurbisedh TX 42" and it seems lately that the audio is going in and out.Its not going completely off,but as if its only coming from the built in subwoofer. It happened a day after upgrading the firmware.Could it be that or just coincidence? Also is there a way to downgrade the firmware?

I don't know man? My TX42 don't have no stinkin subwoofer. I'd check my cable first. But, I'm not surprised. It seems the engineers did a good job designing a TV, but westinghouse penny pinchers jacked it all up.

apparently my gf tells me the pixels are square, now im a sad panda. Would explain why the blacks are so horrible no matter what I try

apparently my gf tells me the pixels are square, now im a sad panda. Would explain why the blacks are so horrible no matter what I try


Do a search for my settings I posted(about 4 or 5 pages back I think) I get some extremely good blacks with those settings. Might be better than what you are using now
My pixels are square as well :(

I also tried to install the firmware update for my TX-42 but i think i downloaded the wrong one. When i installed it, everything went okay but now it doesnt turn on. I tried reinstalling an old firmware upgrade and now when it trys to update, its just the amber light forever.

Any help?

apparently my gf tells me the pixels are square, now im a sad panda. Would explain why the blacks are so horrible no matter what I try

That doesn't make sense actually. Black level is the one and only thing the MVA panel does better. Correctly calibrated my replacement produces blacks about 2 shades deeper than the IPS panel did. It's like a very small cherry on top of a turd pie. Perhaps you're having trouble with severe floating blacks on HD feeds like I am seeing? That issue definitely makes the blacks lighter, almost absurdly so. It's clearly a bug in the firmware that affects the behavior of the dynamic contrast, whether the feature is on or off doesn't matter.

well with Nesto's settings its looking nicer.
I did disable dynamic but who knows if its actually off. According to Westinghouse support I have the latest firmware available for my TV so I am hoping that setting actually works.

well with Nesto's settings its looking nicer.
I did disable dynamic but who knows if its actually off. According to Westinghouse support I have the latest firmware available for my TV so I am hoping that setting actually works.

If you do have the latest firmware dynamic contrast should be off if you set it that way at least how mine works.

I get white flickering lines of static at the very top of the screen on some SD channels and when and HD channel plays something in SD.

Is there anything I can do to fix this?

It's almost like interference or the image needs to be moved up a few pixels. Please Help.:confused:

I get white flickering lines of static at the very top of the screen on some SD channels and when and HD channel plays something in SD.

Is there anything I can do to fix this?

It's almost like interference or the image needs to be moved up a few pixels. Please Help.:confused:

This question has probably been asked 50 times in this thread and many other times in other full 1080p television threads. This is what the broadcaster is sending on their signal (it includes things like Closed Captioning that is supposed to be hidden by overscanning). Since your TV displays all 1920x1080 pixels that it gets from the broadcaster you are lucky enough to see all the picture. The unfortunate part is that you will sometimes see things that the broadcaster didn't really intend for you to see. The only way to not see it is use the "overscan" feature of the TV otherwise just get used to it.

This question has probably been asked 50 times in this thread and many other times in other full 1080p television threads. This is what the broadcaster is sending on their signal (it includes things like Closed Captioning that is supposed to be hidden by overscanning). Since your TV displays all 1920x1080 pixels that it gets from the broadcaster you are lucky enough to see all the picture. The unfortunate part is that you will sometimes see things that the broadcaster didn't really intend for you to see. The only way to not see it is use the "overscan" feature of the TV otherwise just get used to it.

Flabioh,

Thank you for your quick and informative reply. I tried a few forum searches and could not locate an answer. So, this problem is with ALL 1920x1080 sets? Thanks again.

It happens with all sets that have no overscan. At default settings. If you notice on the stations the logos are never at the far extreme of the screen. Most CRT sets have overscan. We are moving into a world where overscan doesn't exist. The broadcasters are just doing their best to provide content to everyone.

Indeed. Setting the screen to Fill/Overscan will hide it, and you're not missing out on as much as you think.

Ok, So i bought the TX-42F430S at best buy a couple of weeks ago and and have some questions which I'm sure have been answered before. First is about the line on the HD NBC broadcast, I know what it is. etc, but i was wondering if there was a way to get rid of it without using the "fill" feature on the TV. I've read that other brands of TV's truncate the signal just a tad to compensate for this. Basically what I want to know is if there is a way to get into the setting to adjust the ratio just a little bit to get rid of the line but not use the fill option?
Also I've been reading about updating the firmware, I have no clue what this means or how to do it. If i have the 4 year warranty with best buy would they do it for me? or do I have to do it myself, and if i have to do it myself can anyone help me out and give me some step by step instructions? any help would be appreciated, thanks.

First is about the line on the HD NBC broadcast, I know what it is. etc, but i was wondering if there was a way to get rid of it without using the "fill" feature on the TV. I've read that other brands of TV's truncate the signal just a tad to compensate for this. Basically what I want to know is if there is a way to get into the setting to adjust the ratio just a little bit to get rid of the line but not use the fill option?

Nope. Fill is your only option. Honestly, after a week, I stopped even noticing it.

Upgrading the firmware is really pretty simple, but the TV appears to be picky about the types of flash drives it'll accept. You basically enter your TV's information at Westinghouse's site, download the upgrade, stick it on a flash drive, stick the drive into your TV, and turn it on and let it do its thing. I think there's a post one page or two back that has more detailed instructions.

Okay, so I wanted to probe the minds of some of the people here who have used the 42" as a computer monitor. I'm going to be building a modest HTPC, mainly to play a few games on the big screen (EVE Online, be still my heart), the web, and for music (I'll probably just be using the PS3 for HD video).

What is the best route for this as far as graphics cards and connections go? VGA? DVI? HDMI? I'm really clueless as to what would work best and what connections this TV has issue with- I found a few posts discussing problems with VGA, but with so many posts in this thread it's hard to see which firmware everyone has and if the problem has since solved itself. Any help or advice would be much appreciated, guys :) Thanks.

I use a DVI-HDMI cable. I have an 8800gts. It works great. No problems and a true pixel match. I wouldn't bother with a vga cable unless you have to. I tried VGA and it worked fine though. YMMV. This is the first time I have had a monitor with enough contrast for 0-255 since the CRT days. You wont be disappointed.

I completly agree, if you can use the DVI-HDMI cable, theres no real reason to use the VGA as stated above, I although do use it some times for decives without the dvi option, i personally like the fact of having both to be able to use

I'll chime in. I used VGA for a couple months. It worked really well. I switched to HDMI and it is vastly superior. If you are sitting <3 feet away then HDMI all the way. If you are like 6 feet away then you'd be hard pressed to see that much of a difference. Though, you might as well use the best connection possible. This TV is simply awesome for HTPC usage. This is the primary reason why I bought this TV and love it.

Awesome- thanks for the info guys. I'm really looking forward to trying this out!

well with Nesto's settings its looking nicer.


Agreed! Thanks for posting, Nesto :). Just watched Superbad (SD DVD on progressive player) this evening. The night time outdoor scenes would have been an absolutely blocked-up killer had I maintained my previous settings. Much nicer blacks!

Thanks!

Okay, so I wanted to probe the minds of some of the people here who have used the 42" as a computer monitor. I'm going to be building a modest HTPC, mainly to play a few games on the big screen (EVE Online, be still my heart), the web, and for music (I'll probably just be using the PS3 for HD video).

What is the best route for this as far as graphics cards and connections go? VGA? DVI? HDMI? I'm really clueless as to what would work best and what connections this TV has issue with- I found a few posts discussing problems with VGA, but with so many posts in this thread it's hard to see which firmware everyone has and if the problem has since solved itself. Any help or advice would be much appreciated, guys :) Thanks.

Just another added note. The ATI HD series of video cards has sound built into them so you can get your sound over your HDMI connection to the TV speakers. Also comes with a native HDMI connection so you just need to use a standard HDMI cable.

Just another added note. The ATI HD series of video cards has sound built into them so you can get your sound over your HDMI connection to the TV speakers. Also comes with a native HDMI connection so you just need to use a standard HDMI cable.

Cool, thanks Nascar- That sounds like the simplest way to go, I'll look into those.

If you do have the latest firmware dynamic contrast should be off if you set it that way at least how mine works.

I wish that was always the case, but it's not. On my TX-47F430S with firmware "5121_1.3.0", turning off dynamic contrast always works on VGA inputs, but on HDMI inputs turning dynamic contrast off doesn't actually turn dynamic contrast off. Instead the behavior just changes from "makes proper contrast calibration completely impossible" to "occasionally improperly lightens shadows if there is a lot of dark black elsewhere in the scene".

^^I agree the Dynamic contrast is not completely off with HDMI input.--That really chaps my... This TV has plenty of contrast. Who are they fooling anyway? This thing probably has around a 200-250 CR in real use. Has anyone ever actually done a contrast measurement with equipment and found it to be more than 500:1? Even on a CRT, I call BS.
Settings time. I have had this TV for a while now and I feel I have my settings down pretty good for a digital source at video levels(16-236).
Back level 34
White level 84
Back light 50-60
Saturation 54
Hue 50
Color control Warm
I don't have any fancy equipment or even any of the filter glasses. So I haven't messed about with anything else.
I imagine I could turn the back light down some and go up a few steps with the black level. So far I'm fairly happy with this TV. I still have not had any mechanical problems with my set. Not even a pixel out.

Setup:
TX-47F430S, (p/n: TW51211-C047A)
Software Version: 5121_1,.3.0
Build on: 2007 June 26

VGA to Xbox 360 at 1080p
Component to Cable at 720p
Component to Xbox 1 Media Center at 720p
External audio via RCA out to cheapo receiver.
Harmony 550 remote

Issues:
I can't get PIP to even show up, let alone work. This is my main issue. Is it because of my firmware version?
I can't download updated firmware, or at least the Westy site says I don't have any available for my part number (TW51211-C047A) but there are updates for the other part numbers (51212 and 51213). Can I use one of these files on my revision?

I'm planning on moving soon and will only have this display, so my PC will need to be hooked up to it. I could try using the DVI on the TV to see what happens with PIP...I'd love to be able to have my PC up and have the XBox in the corner.

Answer: The TX series televisions do not have PIP. For some inane reason the earlier firmware versions list the function in the menu anyway.

Yes Xcalibur_255 is right not only is it in some of the older menus but on the remote you get with the TV it has PIP on it if I remember right but I don't think either the 42 or 47 have it.

Yeah I have the PIP button. Damn.

The ironic part is that the trident video processor will do PIP and all it's related functions. Westinghouse just did not want to include the additional tuner for cost reasons. The remote is just a generic wand meant to cover a broad range of products..... it's pretty common to find buttons that don't have any function for a particular model.

Warning: This is a rant, sorry, I just have to vent.

I have bad lockup and HDMI audio stuttering problems, so I called Westinghouse support. They were nice and told me that since I bought my TX-47F430S at Best Buy, I could call them and have them perform in-home service. So I did, and a tech came out a couple days later. He glanced at the TV for 2 seconds and said he'd need to order a new mainboard. Since I was moving across the state 3 weeks from that time, I asked him how long that would take. He said that if they can't get it within 2 weeks, their policy was to go ahead and authorize an exchange. So 12 days later, today, I get a call from Best Buy telling me the part is on back order and won't arrive until June 26, almost a month from now, and about 6 weeks after the tech came (and I move in a week and a half from now). So I told the BB rep what the tech said about exchanging after two weeks, and she put me on hold, then came back and said sorry, the tech misinformed you. I argued (politely) and she wouldn't budge. She said that if the part doesn't arrive before I move, I'll just have to start a new service call in the new city (and wait another month for the part I suppose).
Is my only option to put up with this? Do you think if I call Westinghouse again and explain, they'll prod BB into action?

My friend just got the TX-47F430S version of the TV from CostCo. We got it to his house and hooked it up everything is great. Then when he goes to hook the coax up, sparks fly everywhere and he's mildly electrocuted.
So we figure the problem is in the cable line, as his cable box died only a few weeks after hooking it up. The previous TV was a large CRT that seemed to have no problem with the cable line. I've read in an earlier page of this thread that the standard for the signal is 10db, but TimeWarner/Comcast has been known to pump up to 28db through the coax line. Could this cause sparks... etc? Has anyone else had this problem with the TV?

I don't know what other coax equipment he has to try, but we did rig up a homemade HDTV antenna that does not shock you and works great.

Any ideas?

Warning: This is a rant, sorry, I just have to vent.

I have bad lockup and HDMI audio stuttering problems, so I called Westinghouse support. They were nice and told me that since I bought my TX-47F430S at Best Buy, I could call them and have them perform in-home service. So I did, and a tech came out a couple days later. He glanced at the TV for 2 seconds and said he'd need to order a new mainboard. Since I was moving across the state 3 weeks from that time, I asked him how long that would take. He said that if they can't get it within 2 weeks, their policy was to go ahead and authorize an exchange. So 12 days later, today, I get a call from Best Buy telling me the part is on back order and won't arrive until June 26, almost a month from now, and about 6 weeks after the tech came (and I move in a week and a half from now). So I told the BB rep what the tech said about exchanging after two weeks, and she put me on hold, then came back and said sorry, the tech misinformed you. I argued (politely) and she wouldn't budge. She said that if the part doesn't arrive before I move, I'll just have to start a new service call in the new city (and wait another month for the part I suppose).
Is my only option to put up with this? Do you think if I call Westinghouse again and explain, they'll prod BB into action?

I wouldn't put up with it at all call them up explain your situation and see what reaction you get. If it's not positive and what you want(an exchange)I would be telling them that because of this I don't even care to get an exchange anymore I want 100% of the money I paid back and that you will inform all friends and family of the problems with the TV and to never buy any products from them not just because of the quality of what they make but because of poor customer service on top of it.

You didn't state how long you have had your TV I am guessing it is past the return time already?

I'm the owner of the TX-47F430S in Cyp's earlier post. The coax jack sparks and flashes when a live cable coax gets within 1" of the jack. I had a cable guy come to check everything and he couldn't find any problems anywhere in my installation from the pole to the outlet. Other TV's (all CRTs) have no issue at all. The process of elimination says it's the TV even though the TV works fine playing DVD, streaming video, and games over my 360 using component input. This happened 1 hr after I purchased the TV.

Any words of wisdom are greatly appreciated.

I think I posted too hastily. I connected my cable box to the TV with composite cables and it did the same thing. If I disconnect the coax to the cable box and connect the composite, no spark. I believe the cable guy doesn't check for anything but a good TV signal, which the coax line is producing. There must be some reason a CRT can handle the current coming from the cable line and not have a problem. I'm guessing it's all the capacitors. If anyone happens to know anything about current coming over a cable tv coax line, pls tell me about it.

I'm the owner of the TX-47F430S in Cyp's earlier post. The coax jack sparks and flashes when a live cable coax gets within 1" of the jack. I had a cable guy come to check everything and he couldn't find any problems anywhere in my installation from the pole to the outlet. Other TV's (all CRTs) have no issue at all. The process of elimination says it's the TV even though the TV works fine playing DVD, streaming video, and games over my 360 using component input. This happened 1 hr after I purchased the TV.

Any words of wisdom are greatly appreciated.

I do have an antenna for OTA stations on my roof and I do have it grounded also to the ground but still I get a spark when I hook it to anything(TV, OTA tuner box, Dishnetwork receiver with OTA tuner built in). Of course the spark is minor at least compared to what your friend described. It will give me a shock if I touch it or put my finger/body parts between the cable and something metal or outlet I am plugging it into. I also get about the same from the dish network cable connected to the dish on my roof. I use to have comcast cable when I use to live in an apartment many years ago and did experience about the same spark you seem to be describing when connecting the cable to both the cable box and the cable modem but just a single spark when connecting then fine after getting it screwed in. It never hurt the TV or cable box or modem just was really annoying to say the least. I would hope it didn't mess your TV up or fry anything if it did I would be contacting the cable provider for them to cover the costs of repair/replacement.

I have the 47 inch westy, I cant get the close captioning to work, it didnt work on my first one either. my version has the 1.2 is it worth it to update to the 1.3? I had to exchange my first set, the right half of the screen was darker than the right just enough to bug me. Geek squad said I was seeing things (yes thats what he told me) so I had him hook up his device to look at the grayscale and sure enough I was right. This is my second one, any more problems and Im done with it.

Anyone have the 42 working with a AMD 780g motherboard (integrated HDMI or DVI?)

My Westy won't sync up with it, ATI drivers act like there is nothing connected. The PC won't even detect the Westy. Tried Inputs 1 and 4.

DVI works just fine on my computer monitor and I've tried HDMI on a 32 inch Symphonic TV which works as well.

VGA works, but that input is in use by my Xbox360.

I've used both a Mac Mini and another home-built computer with the Westy in the past as well, both worked. The problem seems specific to my 780g mobo.

Running latest Bios/Drivers on the PC, Lastest Firmware on Westy.

This is the board I'm trying to use:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186141

Anyone have a 780g mobo hooked up to their Westy?

Wow guys. The 47" version of this TV has some really bad quality control. So far it seems like the 42" are fair. I couldn't imagine why this is happening unless the two are made at separate factories.

To the folks who are getting shocked. Have you checked your mains wiring to make sure the ground is not hot? I have seen it before where the hot is crossed to ground and not neutral somewhere in the house. It could be that the TV is wired wrong internally. From what I have been reading it seems the most likely that the TV is wired wrong internally. Probably right where the power input is.

I implore you to call Westinghouse and lodge a complaint. If your still in the return period take it back and get something else.
Is there anyone with the 42" having any serious problems?
I was gonna build a nice antenna for mine but now I'm having second thoughts about going anywhere near the coax connection. I don't use the internal tuner for anything yet. I'd hate for this thing to blow up in my face if I did.

Anyone have the 42 working with a AMD 780g motherboard (integrated HDMI or DVI?)

My Westy won't sync up with it, ATI drivers act like there is nothing connected. The PC won't even detect the Westy. Tried Inputs 1 and 4.

DVI works just fine on my computer monitor and I've tried HDMI on a 32 inch Symphonic TV which works as well.

VGA works, but that input is in use by my Xbox360.

I've used both a Mac Mini and another home-built computer with the Westy in the past as well, both worked. The problem seems specific to my 780g mobo.

Running latest Bios/Drivers on the PC, Lastest Firmware on Westy.

This is the board I'm trying to use:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186141

Anyone have a 780g mobo hooked up to their Westy?

Hmm? Try plugging in the HDMI and leaving the TV on. Then reboot the computer. There has to be a HDCP handshake as far as I know.
When I first plugged mine in, my PC didn't see it and I had to reboot. Now my primary monitor will not show the post information if the TV is on. My video card automatically thinks that since the TV is hooked up to a digital connection that it must be the primary. My desktop monitor wont come on until windows boots.

It could be that the TV is wired wrong internally. From what I have been reading it seems the most likely that the TV is wired wrong internally. Probably right where the power input is.

Where are you reading this?

Hmm? Try plugging in the HDMI and leaving the TV on. Then reboot the computer. There has to be a HDCP handshake as far as I know.
When I first plugged mine in, my PC didn't see it and I had to reboot. Now my primary monitor will not show the post information if the TV is on. My video card automatically thinks that since the TV is hooked up to a digital connection that it must be the primary. My desktop monitor wont come on until windows boots.

This is the case with my 47" if you already have your computer on then change the TV to the HDMI input that the computer is on it's blank and no way to get it to show up other than restarting the computer. When I restart or fresh power on of the computer just make sure you have the TV on the right input and then it should pop the image on shortly after the startup beep. Sometimes it won't come on till windows starts too all depends on the computer/video card. If you still have issues and this doesn't work there's some other things to try too.

Anyone have the 42 working with a AMD 780g motherboard (integrated HDMI or DVI?)

My Westy won't sync up with it, ATI drivers act like there is nothing connected. The PC won't even detect the Westy. Tried Inputs 1 and 4.

DVI works just fine on my computer monitor and I've tried HDMI on a 32 inch Symphonic TV which works as well.

VGA works, but that input is in use by my Xbox360.

I've used both a Mac Mini and another home-built computer with the Westy in the past as well, both worked. The problem seems specific to my 780g mobo.

Running latest Bios/Drivers on the PC, Lastest Firmware on Westy.

This is the board I'm trying to use:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186141

Anyone have a 780g mobo hooked up to their Westy?

I don't know too much in this area, but when my PC's ATI drivers were acting up, I went for the Omega Drivers: http://www.omegadrivers.net/

This cleared up every problem I had with the graphics card. I have no idea if it will help your problem, but it's probably worth a look.

Where are reading this?

The coax connection is grounded inside the TV. If there is AC power crossed to ground anywhere in the line, then the ground is hot. It is entirely possible that there is some other problem that is causing the coax connection or the coax line in the home to be hot. Usually this is caused by faulty home wiring somewhere or the only other possibility is the wiring in the TV's power socket. I couldn't diagnose the problem 100% without being there with my equipment. I was just trying to offer some suggestions on things to check out. ;)

The coax connection is grounded inside the TV. If there is AC power crossed to ground anywhere in the line, then the ground is hot. It is entirely possible that there is some other problem that is causing the coax connection or the coax line in the home to be hot. Usually this is caused by faulty home wiring somewhere or the only other possibility is the wiring in the TV's power socket. I couldn't diagnose the problem 100% without being there with my equipment. I was just trying to offer some suggestions on things to check out. ;)

With it being a cable companies cable it wouldn't be faulty house wiring technically the cable company owns all the cable/boxes/wall plates and everything so it would be their fault. Unless it is a problem with the TV solely then of course would be something not right in the TV.

I don't know too much in this area, but when my PC's ATI drivers were acting up, I went for the Omega Drivers: http://www.omegadrivers.net/

This cleared up every problem I had with the graphics card. I have no idea if it will help your problem, but it's probably worth a look.

Unfortunately there are no Omega drivers for ATI and Vista 32. I know I didn't specify my OS earlier :)


Hmm? Try plugging in the HDMI and leaving the TV on. Then reboot the computer. There has to be a HDCP handshake as far as I know.
When I first plugged mine in, my PC didn't see it and I had to reboot. Now my primary monitor will not show the post information if the TV is on. My video card automatically thinks that since the TV is hooked up to a digital connection that it must be the primary. My desktop monitor wont come on until windows boots.

No dice with both a DVI > HDMI adapter or with 3 separate HDMI cables (all different brands). I've also now tried on all 4 HDMI inputs with the same results.

When the PC starts up, the Westy says that it's detecting for about 1 second then goes back to no signal.

Because this is my 3rd HDMI device, I'm picking up a new AV receiver that has 4 HDMI inputs (Would have no need for this if the Westy passed 5.1 over it's optical out, but it doesn't). I doubt this will help me at all because the receiver probably just passes the signal to the Westy, but maybe having a device between the two will help somehow. It's an Onkyo SR606 and should be here by mid next week.

I'll be sure to post updates to my situation here. Also, keep the advice coming! Willing to try just about anything to get it to work.

I think X has got the right idea. As one of the more recent buyers of the TX series, I can say that If I had read this thread before hand, I would have never bought this TV. I got extremely lucky that I got one of the older panels. I do use the E saver mode. I have never had a lockup or anything of the sort and the display is fantastic. Now, I can tell you that my cable box locks up about 4 times a day. I do not use the tuner on this TV and I believe that that is where the problems lie. It is apparent that the tuner is of faulty design. If you do buy a TX series, don't use the tuner. Also, Bring a 30x loupe and inspect the display model. If it has the IPS panel, see if you can get the display. If not, buy an Olevia. On that note, I got lucky and I am extremely satisfied.
My apologies that I did not go thru all 160+ pages. How do you check which panel the TV has? I am considering the 47" at Costco.

With it being a cable companies cable it wouldn't be faulty house wiring technically the cable company owns all the cable/boxes/wall plates and everything so it would be their fault. Unless it is a problem with the TV solely then of course would be something not right in the TV.

I don't know the specifics on the original post, but in the U.S., wiring inside the home belongs to the consumer (homeowner). The cable co. may service it, and charge for that service, but they do not own it. This stems back to one or more court rulings years ago; originally, they did own the wires and the homeowner was not allowed to make any changes. Thus they could nail you for each additional outlet, etc. Now, you can do whatever you want with the wiring inside the house, provided it does not cause problems with the overall network.

In any case, the consumer would also be responsible, after the initial install, for maintaining any interior grounding - typically from the incoming cable line to a water pipe, near where it exits. Exterior grounds I'm not sure about. Technically I guess it's theirs.

Ed

What type of backlight does this tv have

My apologies that I did not go thru all 160+ pages. How do you check which panel the TV has? I am considering the 47" at Costco.

Sam,
Not sure how you can tell which panel the TV has. If I were you I would stay away from this TV even at the current bargain prices. Save yourself some grief and put your money towards a better set.

Best of luck

I don't know the specifics on the original post, but in the U.S., wiring inside the home belongs to the consumer (homeowner). The cable co. may service it, and charge for that service, but they do not own it. This stems back to one or more court rulings years ago; originally, they did own the wires and the homeowner was not allowed to make any changes. Thus they could nail you for each additional outlet, etc. Now, you can do whatever you want with the wiring inside the house, provided it does not cause problems with the overall network.

In any case, the consumer would also be responsible, after the initial install, for maintaining any interior grounding - typically from the incoming cable line to a water pipe, near where it exits. Exterior grounds I'm not sure about. Technically I guess it's theirs.

Ed

I live in US too but haven't had "cable" for many years the way at least my installer and dishnetwork have it for me is if their installer installed it and ran the wires/hooked up the boxes/dishes and something is wrong its on them to fix it and they have came out once since initial install to fix it and didn't pay anything. Now on the other end if I ran any wires myself or installed my own dish/box/cables and something went wrong and I had them come out to fix it they would charge me for it.

My apologies that I did not go thru all 160+ pages. How do you check which panel the TV has? I am considering the 47" at Costco.

Get yourself a 30x loupe (small eyepiece magnifier commonly referred to as a jeweler's loupe) and inspect the Pixels close up. A white screen will make it easier. You may not need the magnifier if you have good eyes. What your looking for is pixels shaped like < and not pixels shaped like [].

Edit.
More specifically the IPS panel has pixels like this.
http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:62:11088:0:2

Mine was on - this was fine until i moved the TV to another room and hooked it directly to the cable (rather then the DVR over component).

... Still waiting to hear back from Westinghouse support. They are arranging with BB as to how to proceed (replace, repair, refund). At leat i wont have to ship it to CA (just drop it off at local BB)

UPDATE:
Well finally BB got back to Westinghouse CS with a return number (it took almost a month)
Westy CS where really really nice every day i called (which was bad for me as there was no one i wanted to get mad at..).
I took my TV to BB and they no longer stock the 47" model. So they offerd me $1500 on a new TV purchase. After some haggling/debating/and then being told i would have to pay a $200 exchange fee (!!!!!!) I got a 52" Samsung (LN52A550) for only $250 more (i did not pay the $200 exchange fee!).
I hate to say it - but the Samsung does blow away the Westy - at the time the Westy was the best price/size etc. but now i wouldnt say the same.

One side note:
the BB guy who unloaded my TV from the car asked me why I was returning it. Turns out he also got one of the very first deliveries and so is concernd his wont start up if he plugs the cable line directly in!

Get yourself a 30x loupe (small eyepiece magnifier commonly referred to as a jeweler's loupe) and inspect the Pixels close up. A white screen will make it easier. You may not need the magnifier if you have good eyes. What your looking for is pixels shaped like < and not pixels shaped like [].

Edit.
More specifically the IPS panel has pixels like this.
http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:62:11088:0:2

Thanks for the link. How do you know panels have pixels like < are made by IPS, [] are made by MVA or some other manufacturers? Is there a hidden menu contain the info?

Sam,
Not sure how you can tell which panel the TV has. If I were you I would stay away from this TV even at the current bargain prices. Save yourself some grief and put your money towards a better set.

Best of luck
Thanks for the advise. Just could not resist 4 HDMI inputs and a PC input with a sub $1000 price for a 47" 1080P LCD. I am not a videophile. Minor defects are OK with me. Definitely, I need this TV to be as reliable as my CRT TV. I have not yet decided to buy it. If I buy it I should have 3 months' returning it if I am not happy with it and also there is a 2 years warranty with Costco.

There is a 50% chance I might buy it on this coming Thursday. How many people here had a broken 47" TX?

Thanks for the link. How do you know panels have pixels like < are made by IPS, [] are made by MVA or some other manufacturers? Is there a hidden menu contain the info?
S-IPS is not a company. It is a LCD manufacturing process called super in plane switching.
MVA means multi-domain vertical alignment. ;)

Thanks for the advise. Just could not resist 4 HDMI inputs and a PC input with a sub $1000 price for a 47" 1080P LCD. I am not a videophile. Minor defects are OK with me. Definitely, I need this TV to be as reliable as my CRT TV. I have not yet decided to buy it. If I buy it I should have 3 months' returning it if I am not happy with it and also there is a 2 years warranty with Costco.

There is a 50% chance I might buy it on this coming Thursday. How many people here had a broken 47" TX?

Sam,
The 4 HDMI inputs is just a hub, not independent HDMI inputs. I had two of these units. The first one would not turn on intermittently, I had to unplug it from the wall and plug it back in for the unit to come back on (owned for 28 days). The second unit had a weird popping sound and the picture seemed not as sharp as the first one (owned for 6 days). I returned the TX's for a Samsung LNT-4665F and in my opinion it has an awesome picture.

Best of Luck

UPDATE:
Well finally BB got back to Westinghouse CS with a return number (it took almost a month)
Westy CS where really really nice every day i called (which was bad for me as there was no one i wanted to get mad at..).
I took my TV to BB and they no longer stock the 47" model. So they offerd me $1500 on a new TV purchase. After some haggling/debating/and then being told i would have to pay a $200 exchange fee (!!!!!!) I got a 52" Samsung (LN52A550) for only $250 more (i did not pay the $200 exchange fee!).
I hate to say it - but the Samsung does blow away the Westy - at the time the Westy was the best price/size etc. but now i wouldnt say the same.

One side note:
the BB guy who unloaded my TV from the car asked me why I was returning it. Turns out he also got one of the very first deliveries and so is concernd his wont start up if he plugs the cable line directly in!

A MONTH?!??! Westinghouse just told me that they'd send off the info to BB Corporate and it would take 7-10 business days to get my number. I hope I'm not as unlucky as you. And if anybody gives me $%^! about an exchange fee, I'll blow it :mad:. How much did you have to argue to get them to waive it? I'm hoping they don't have the Westy in stock so I can do the same thing as you with the 46'' or 52'' Samsung. If I go online and try the pickup in store option, it shows the westy as unavailable in pretty much every store. Does anybody know if this is a reliable indicator of stock? Also TLJester, how did you get the LN52A550 for only $1750? I thought it was $2200 even when it was on sale.


Thanks for the advise. Just could not resist 4 HDMI inputs and a PC input with a sub $1000 price for a 47" 1080P LCD. I am not a videophile. Minor defects are OK with me. Definitely, I need this TV to be as reliable as my CRT TV. I have not yet decided to buy it. If I buy it I should have 3 months' returning it if I am not happy with it and also there is a 2 years warranty with Costco.

There is a 50% chance I might buy it on this coming Thursday. How many people here had a broken 47" TX?

If you need a TV as reliable as a CRT, then don't get an HDTV. :p Seriously though, this TV is terrible, even for HDTVs. I still have new problems popping up as I await BB's exchange number. I can't urge you strongly enough to skip this TV.

So far the 42" version hasn't had really any complaints. My 42" is actually awesome. I wouldn't take one of those 47" for free though. All of these brands have problems at some point in time. Right now DELL has a 30" LCD that throws up a HDCP error at it's native resolution. No one wants a monitor you can't use at it's native res. Thats like buying a car with a 6 speed gearbox and only being able to use 5th gear. That said, if you must have a 47" TV, don't even waste your time with this one. It will be just another horror story we will have to read.

For reference I bought this TV on feb 30th 08. Still not one single problem.

UPDATE on 780g + WestingHouse problem:

My new receiver arrived today. I have my HTPC hooked into the receiver via HDMI and then the receiver to my Westy via HDMI. I now get video.

No clue why. I thought the Receiver simply passed the same signal to the Westy, but I'm enjoying my 1080p HTPC now. Woot.

Receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR606

Hi All, Just tried updating my firmware to version 1.3.0 from 1.2.0
The only one that Westinghouse allows me to download for my TX-42F430S is the June 2007 file which while it is not titled 1.2.0 has to be that simply by the date of the file. Is there any issue with applying the 1.3.0 firmware update to the TW-51101-L042A part number? I can see that there is also a TW-51102-L042A part number and I'm wondering if the new firmware only works on the TW-51102-L042A part number, or has Westinghouse simply recinded the 1.3.0 firmware. Thanks all.

A MONTH?!??! Westinghouse just told me that they'd send off the info to BB Corporate and it would take 7-10 business days to get my number. I hope I'm not as unlucky as you. And if anybody gives me $%^! about an exchange fee, I'll blow it :mad:. How much did you have to argue to get them to waive it? I'm hoping they don't have the Westy in stock so I can do the same thing as you with the 46'' or 52'' Samsung. If I go online and try the pickup in store option, it shows the westy as unavailable in pretty much every store. Does anybody know if this is a reliable indicator of stock? Also TLJester, how did you get the LN52A550 for only $1750? I thought it was $2200 even when it was on sale.


They told me a similar thing, only 5-15 business days. After i kept calling after 7/8. then at 15 i had to wait a couple of days for a CS manager to call me. They requested from BB a expidited RMA reqest (or whatever its called), a couple of days after that the number came through. so about 20 business days (4 weeks) in total.

Well the story is long as to how i got the return. to summerize:
The email with the return number simply states to bring the broken TV to my local BB with my receipt and number. There they will dicuss what my options are. So i took my tv off the wall, hauled it to BB, and took in a copy of that email and recept (left the tv in the car), to see what my options were.
I was then told that BB no longer stock that TV and so could swap it out for a similar model. I asked if i could pay to upgrade and thats when they found the price for the TV was $1500.
I had a look at the TV's there and wasnt so interested in them (no deals at that time i thought was worth it). thats when they told me I have 90 days from the date of the RMA number. but i had to hold onto the TV and could only swap it out when i return it.
I then went off home to check here to see what to current status is in LCD Tv's and then went to CC to have a look at some other models there.
Thats where I saw the Samsung for $1899 (i took a photo of it).
Went back to BB - asked (the same people) if they could price match on a return, and they said they could. Off to the TV dept to speak with manager there (once again whom i spoke with earlier) and he was amazed at the price - but then found that BB had been selling it a few weeks ago at that price + free harmony remote (i didnt feel like haglling any more).
he pulled the TV from the shelf and now back over to CS.
Obviously i needed to return the TV - so they got someone to come and give me a hand. they take it off into the realm of the CS dept.
This is where it all goes weird.
Suddenly a new person in the process informs me they cant price match unless its printed in a paper! - hmm -so i show them the photo - tell them to call that CC store and also that i just friggin discussed this with them to make sure it was all do-able !!!!
thankfully the TV Dept manager comes over who i had spoken with and he tells them just to match the price.
then 10 mins into the paper work, they pull the $200 exchange fee - I just tell them i am not going to pay that (they have my tv so its going to be a pain to haul it back to the car - but sod that for a laugh - $200 sheesh!)
After more mucking about, they just drop that fee (and the explination that i had ben waiting for as to where that came from !), and the nice girl at CS who had been most helpful all the other times, rings me up.
Only she finds my previous invoice for the Westy in the system (woo hoo rewad zone), and so rather then the $1500, I get the full price i paid (well, after a price match i did).
thats why I only paid about $250 in the end....


... ok that wasnt a summery, but almost a line by line of what happend...

And i got the impresion that BB as a whole no longer stock the 47" Westy - looking at their ad's for the last few months, it was always on sale and then finally as a clearance item.

Print this and take it with you if it helps. PM me if you want any other help (receipt scans etc)

Thanks for the advise. Just could not resist 4 HDMI inputs and a PC input with a sub $1000 price for a 47" 1080P LCD. I am not a videophile. Minor defects are OK with me. Definitely, I need this TV to be as reliable as my CRT TV. I have not yet decided to buy it. If I buy it I should have 3 months' returning it if I am not happy with it and also there is a 2 years warranty with Costco.

There is a 50% chance I might buy it on this coming Thursday. How many people here had a broken 47" TX?

I bought a 47" TX when they were first released last year. My set would randomly loose signal on all HDMI ports. Annoying during a movie but untolerable during online gaming that can't be paused. Sometimes it would just flicker out for a second. Other times it would loose signal and I would have to change to a different input then back. Thankfully I bought the Best Buy warrantee and recently returned it for a 46" Sony KDL-46V4100. I had to pay the difference because the Sony was more expensive and my local store would only replace it with a cheaper "comparable model". My only free replacement option with 4 HDMI ports was a Toshiba but they had the new low end Sony in stock and that also had 4 HDMI ports so I went with that. Even though I had to pay the difference, I am extremely happy with the Sony.

From what I understand, Westinghouse started using different panels and various other parts at some point. I suppose chances are low that a new set will have the same problems mine did. However, with Sony and Samsung becoming more competitive with their pricing, I think I'm through with Westinghouse. Good luck to you where ever you end up!

They told me a similar thing, only 5-15 business days. After i kept calling after 7/8. then at 15 i had to wait a couple of days for a CS manager to call me. They requested from BB a expidited RMA reqest (or whatever its called), a couple of days after that the number came through. so about 20 business days (4 weeks) in total.

Well the story is long as to how i got the return. to summerize:
The email with the return number simply states to bring the broken TV to my local BB with my receipt and number. There they will dicuss what my options are. So i took my tv off the wall, hauled it to BB, and took in a copy of that email and recept (left the tv in the car), to see what my options were.
I was then told that BB no longer stock that TV and so could swap it out for a similar model. I asked if i could pay to upgrade and thats when they found the price for the TV was $1500.
I had a look at the TV's there and wasnt so interested in them (no deals at that time i thought was worth it). thats when they told me I have 90 days from the date of the RMA number. but i had to hold onto the TV and could only swap it out when i return it.
I then went off home to check here to see what to current status is in LCD Tv's and then went to CC to have a look at some other models there.
Thats where I saw the Samsung for $1899 (i took a photo of it).
Went back to BB - asked (the same people) if they could price match on a return, and they said they could. Off to the TV dept to speak with manager there (once again whom i spoke with earlier) and he was amazed at the price - but then found that BB had been selling it a few weeks ago at that price + free harmony remote (i didnt feel like haglling any more).
he pulled the TV from the shelf and now back over to CS.
Obviously i needed to return the TV - so they got someone to come and give me a hand. they take it off into the realm of the CS dept.
This is where it all goes weird.
Suddenly a new person in the process informs me they cant price match unless its printed in a paper! - hmm -so i show them the photo - tell them to call that CC store and also that i just friggin discussed this with them to make sure it was all do-able !!!!
thankfully the TV Dept manager comes over who i had spoken with and he tells them just to match the price.
then 10 mins into the paper work, they pull the $200 exchange fee - I just tell them i am not going to pay that (they have my tv so its going to be a pain to haul it back to the car - but sod that for a laugh - $200 sheesh!)
After more mucking about, they just drop that fee (and the explination that i had ben waiting for as to where that came from !), and the nice girl at CS who had been most helpful all the other times, rings me up.
Only she finds my previous invoice for the Westy in the system (woo hoo rewad zone), and so rather then the $1500, I get the full price i paid (well, after a price match i did).
thats why I only paid about $250 in the end....


... ok that wasnt a summery, but almost a line by line of what happend...

And i got the impresion that BB as a whole no longer stock the 47" Westy - looking at their ad's for the last few months, it was always on sale and then finally as a clearance item.

Print this and take it with you if it helps. PM me if you want any other help (receipt scans etc)

Thanks a lot for the info, it helps me know that it's worth it to fight if they try to screw me over with fees or whatnot. I hope either CC or BB are having as good of a sale on the Samsung when I get my exchange authorization (whenever that may be!).

Boy, there are a ton of people with bad 47-inchers. That sucks :( I still have not encountered any real problem with my 42-inch.

Boy, there are a ton of people with bad 47-inchers. That sucks :( I still have not encountered any real problem with my 42-inch.

Luckily everyone has been within the 1year warrenty!
But from day 1 there have been people with issues.
Go look at the Samsung a550 thread - i think only 1 maybe 2 people have had an issue, and those are just the odd bad unit you are bound to get (shipping etc never helps).
saying that - look at the a650 thread and there are lockup issues etc ...

Right now if i where looking for a TV i would get either the 46 or 52 " Samsung a550 - they seem to be best bang (and trouble free)for your buck!

nibbs,Apackofmonkeys,ixpagan,

Thanks all for the advises on the 47" TX. I can wait for thinner LCD TVs such as Toshiba RV-47F430S (or even the RV-52F480S?) to come down in price in the sub $1000 (for the 47", sub $1500 for the 52") and will skip this one.

S-IPS is not a company. It is a LCD manufacturing process called super in plane switching.
MVA means multi-domain vertical alignment. ;)
Thats nice, confuses me even more about these HDTVs with these terminologies. Guess I am old and out of date!

Thanks.

my 42" set i picked up in Sept. 07' is working wonderfully. I have a ps3/dc/n64/hd cable box/genesis hooked up. Haven't really had any problems am pretty satisfied with the quality. I am getting a weird popping noise out of my sound, might be my receiver though.

Has anyone had their westy prof. calibrated???? results??

Hi All, Just tried updating my firmware to version 1.3.0 from 1.2.0
The only one that Westinghouse allows me to download for my TX-42F430S is the June 2007 file which while it is not titled 1.2.0 has to be that simply by the date of the file. Is there any issue with applying the 1.3.0 firmware update to the TW-51101-L042A part number? I can see that there is also a TW-51102-L042A part number and I'm wondering if the new firmware only works on the TW-51102-L042A part number, or has Westinghouse simply recinded the 1.3.0 firmware. Thanks all.

bumpity?

I am getting a weird popping noise out of my sound, might be my receiver though.

I had that too (and so did some other people). It went away after a month or two. Hasn't happened in a long time. Don't know about other folks, though.

I had that too (and so did some other people). It went away after a month or two. Hasn't happened in a long time. Don't know about other folks, though.



Never goes away here, Its very random and may or may not happen from one day to the next, But it sure never goes away. Not your receiver. Its my one biggest issue with my TX. I have had it now since last Sept.

I had that too (and so did some other people). It went away after a month or two. Hasn't happened in a long time. Don't know about other folks, though.


Happened to me too for the first couple months, then went away. It got replaced by a 100x worse HDMI audio stuttering problem though.

Ick. I guess I should be glad that I keep missing bullets with this set, but it makes me sad to see so many other people with all these problems.

Since it's not going away for some people, what are some possible causes of it? Just random wiring issues?

Mmm, also I have a quick cabling question. I'd like to hook my laptop up to my 42" through VGA (currently using S-Video; bleh). Monoprice has both VGA and SVGA cables. Do I not want SVGA? What exactly is the difference?

Ick. I guess I should be glad that I keep missing bullets with this set, but it makes me sad to see so many other people with all these problems.

Since it's not going away for some people, what are some possible causes of it? Just random wiring issues?

I would like to know myself. I think it somehow does come from the HDMI part of it. It is very strange in that some days are worst then others with the popping. I use my TX47 for both TV and PC about 50/50, They are both connected through HDMI. When I use it for PC since the popping becomes so irritating to me I just end up muting the sound on the TV.

I've had it pop while just watching local TV through the coax/antenna, so I'm not sure if it's an HDMI thing and is just a general issue.

Can someone with electrical knowledge help me figure something out?
We were testing the coax line to see if there is any current coming over it. Using the volt meter the line by it self has about 3v of current coming through it. However, if you put the other end of the volt meter into the ground plug on the outlet right next to the coax line it gives 120v. Is this because the coax is not grounded properly or would this be normal because the volt meter is in the ground of a live outlet?

Can someone with electrical knowledge help me figure something out?
We were testing the coax line to see if there is any current coming over it. Using the volt meter the line by it self has about 3v of current coming through it. However, if you put the other end of the volt meter into the ground plug on the outlet right next to the coax line it gives 120v. Is this because the coax is not grounded properly or would this be normal because the volt meter is in the ground of a live outlet?

If your going to the ground of the outlet it should simply be ground nothing else try leaving the volt meter in the outlet and putting the other lead on the positive of some other power source that you know the voltage of thats different than 120v if you read the proper voltage then you know your getting a proper ground from the outlet it could be the outlet that is messed up rather than the cable reading 120v. If you do read the proper voltage from some other source using the outlet for ground then you are indeed getting 120v from the coax and there is something wrong for sure then. Also really voltage is irrelevant it's amps that really matter it only takes 1amp to kill you but you could be running 1million volts but 1miliamp and you wouldn't be killed from the shock.

Can someone with electrical knowledge help me figure something out?
We were testing the coax line to see if there is any current coming over it. Using the volt meter the line by it self has about 3v of current coming through it. However, if you put the other end of the volt meter into the ground plug on the outlet right next to the coax line it gives 120v. Is this because the coax is not grounded properly or would this be normal because the volt meter is in the ground of a live outlet?

If your getting 120v using an outlet ground then you have a ground fault somewhere. That is very bad. Nothing hot should ever be tied to ground. I can help somewhat in the diagnosis of this problem. However, before I do, I wish to make something very clear. You should consult a licensed electrician. Without a doubt, your typical line voltage has enough current to kill or even set your home on fire. OK so now that that is out of the way. There are several ways that line voltage can get to ground.
1. Someone has deliberately crossed a hot connection to ground somewhere in the home.
2. There is a faulty transformer plugged in somewhere that is shorted to ground.
3. For some reason, someone has connected the ground on the coax outlet to a hot in the homes wiring.

From your post you are saying you are getting 120v from the coax ground to the outlet ground. I have included a graphic to make sure we are on the same page. If you are having the problem that my graphic displays. Call an electrician immediately!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=112365&d=1212848030

I've been considering a TX series, but will only be sitting about 6-8 feet away. I currently have a LTV-32w6 and wonder if I would see any benefit from 1080p at my present viewing distance. Thoughts?

I've been considering a TX series, but will only be sitting about 6-8 feet away. I currently have a LTV-32w6 and wonder if I would see any benefit from 1080p at my present viewing distance. Thoughts?

If your below 40" the 1080p vs a 720p won't make a difference only when you go above that 40" mark will most people even notice the differences. If your posting here of course both of these are over 40" so definitely want 1080p for your native resolution.

im getting 2 problems

1. im using this as a moniter i have this quarter inch line going across the moniter at the bottom of my task bar (1080p is turned on through nvidia)

2. when i leave my moniter off for long periods of time, turning it back on, it turns on right and goes black, turns on goes black (it does not say its losing a signal) after a few clicks or program quitting it does work

I've been considering a TX series, but will only be sitting about 6-8 feet away. I currently have a LTV-32w6 and wonder if I would see any benefit from 1080p at my present viewing distance. Thoughts?

I'd recommend 1080p for anything about 40" as well. The difference isn't huge (not like going from 480 to 720, of course) but when switching between a 720 source and a 1080, I can tell the difference.

I have the 47F430S, when I plug my PC in with a vga cable, the set does not detect it. Any one else having this proble?

Just picked up an open box Onkyo 705 from CC for just 369. Got it setup after some issues with a bad hdmi cable and damn does it sound good with my 47...

I just picked up a tx-47f430s today at Costco for 999$. And everything works great EXCEPT:

Playing dvd's. I'm using an Xbox 360 connected via component cable. I've tried every setting from 480i to 1080p and I get AUDIO but no VIDEO from DVDs. I occasionally get a purple screen for about 10 seconds the NO SIGNAL message.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

I can play HD-DVDs just fine from the HD drive. And I've tried the regular DVDs in both drives on the Xbox. As well as changing the component input I am plugged into. (Same on both of them.)

DVD output worked just fine on my old 32" HP LCD. So I'm reasonably certain it's not the cables. I can play games and view the Xbox dashboard just fine.

The 360 only upconverts dvds to 1080p via hdmi or vga if you are using the component it will do 480p but thats it I believe. If you have an older 360 it won't have the hdmi output so you will either have to go vga or do the ebay shuffle.
later,
Neal