Ok here is my new issue

I bought a Xbox 360 hd dvd player addon today

It is supposed to upconvert over vga to 1080p and I have the display in xbox set to 1920x1080 ... now when I play a dvd or HD DVD (I used the movie Serenity as my guide) I see fuzz in the back ground. I have gotten this on the tv from everything Component, VGA, computer dvd player, Philips upconverter, Xbox360 standard dvd drive... Now my question is on this tv am I supposed to see SOME fuzz possibly? This is the first HDTV and large lcd I have owned so I dont exactly know what is acceptable

The hd dvd looks AMAZING loading up and on the menu screen but in the movie while it is much improved I STILL see some fuzz

The hd dvd looks AMAZING loading up and on the menu screen but in the movie while it is much improved I STILL see some fuzz

Well, this doesn't sound normal to me, but it would help a lot if you could take a picture.

You don't have sharpness turned up to 100 or anything do you? It should be set around 10... Otherwise it is going to try to sharpen things you don't want to see.

xnappo

Well, this doesn't sound normal to me, but it would help a lot if you could take a picture.

You don't have sharpness turned up to 100 or anything do you? It should be set around 10... Otherwise it is going to try to sharpen things you don't want to see.

xnappo

even with sharpness to 0 (where it is at) I still get the fuzz


here are 2 pics to get an idea (this is of the HD DVD of Serenity)

I know they were paused but the pixelation fuzz like in the circles is what I get

http://www.chiahatesyou.com/pics/chia/hdtv/

Talk about a long thread! So, this is my first post here. I'll try not to write a novel. :rolleyes: I'm now on my SECOND TX-42. I'm using it exclusively as my computer monitor. The first had a problem with running my computer through a DVI to HDMI cable. At 1920x1080@60hz I would have a 3/4" to 1 1/4" black band all the way around the screen. Basically it made the 42" monitor be a 38" monitor. And since it wasn't native on the screen (even though it was in the settings) I was getting a crappy pic to boot. I called Westinghouse and jumped through their hoops. They said take it back and get another one. I set up a service call with my BB service plan. I decided not to wait for the service call as it was a week out and found another locally and went and did a swap. Now here's the rub. The second one DOES IT TO!! Using a vga cable it works great. But I want to use the DVI-HDMI cable. I left the service call in place and the guy finally made it out today. Couldn't help me. Basically he told me I was having a conflict between the vid card(s) and the monitor. He suggested I take my computer in and hook it up to display models to find a make/model that would work. What a load of...Well anyway, I'm running a pair of ATI 1900XT's in Crossfire mode. Has anyone else heard of this or know a solution to this? Any help is much appreciated. :)

My 30 day window for Sammy 4061 return to BB is about to over and I have to make a diction what to do next. One of the options I am considering is Westy TX 42 or 47 (TBD).
I was followed this thread for a few days now but still could not find answers for number of questions. It is important for me clarify the following issues:

1. LCD panel manufacturer. 72 %, 8 bit, chevron-like pixels shape ( <<<<<< ) may be an indication of S-IPS panel (LG/Philips???). Can anybody confirm it?
2. VP/chipset. Somebody mentioned that this is Trident. What prove we have for this assumption? Any details like generation, version, spec, pictures, etc.
3. Correct me if I am wrong but Service Menu access code is still unknown. Any update for this, may be pictures or structure of SM?
4. Anybody has seen (or has a copy) Service Manual?
5. HDMI version (1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.2a, 1.3, 1.3a, 1.3b) which one this set has?
6. Did hardware/firmware version changed over the last few weeks. What are the latest versions. Are there any stickers on the unit with this information?

All comments and advises will be appreciated.

even with sharpness to 0 (where it is at) I still get the fuzz


here are 2 pics to get an idea (this is of the HD DVD of Serenity)

I know they were paused but the pixelation fuzz like in the circles is what I get

http://www.chiahatesyou.com/pics/chia/hdtv/

It is the source material, not the TV.

If you want to verify this, get a copy of the Miami Vice HD-DVD. I had the same fuzz on my old rp crt hdtv with it.

At 1920x1080@60hz I would have a 3/4" to 1 1/4" black band all the way around the screen.

First of all, welcome to the thread. There have been many people in this thread and others that I have read with ATI cards and 1920x1080 using DVI. I am pretty sure it is a known driver issue by ATI. By rolling back to older drivers you could fix it. Others have also fixed it with forcing a different refresh rate of 75Hz. Hope that helps.

My 30 day window for Sammy 4061 return to BB is about to over and I have to make a diction what to do next. One of the options I am considering is Westy TX 42 or 47 (TBD).
I was followed this thread for a few days now but still could not find answers for number of questions. It is important for me clarify the following issues:

1. LCD panel manufacturer. 72 %, 8 bit, chevron-like pixels shape ( <<<<<< ) may be an indication of S-IPS panel (LG/Philips???). Can anybody confirm it?
2. VP/chipset. Somebody mentioned that this is Trident. What prove we have for this assumption? Any details like generation, version, spec, pictures, etc.
3. Correct me if I am wrong but Service Menu access code is still unknown. Any update for this, may be pictures or structure of SM?
4. Anybody has seen (or has a copy) Service Manual?
5. HDMI version (1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.2a, 1.3, 1.3a, 1.3b) which one this set has?
6. Did hardware/firmware version changed over the last few weeks. What are the latest versions. Are there any stickers on the unit with this information?

All comments and advises will be appreciated.

1. I'm pretty sure it is a S-IPS panel if I remember correctly. X_Caliber could probably confirm though.
2. It is definitely a high end Trident Chip. It has been confirmed by several sources including the president of Westinghouse. Search this thread for Trident and you'll find more detail
3. Service Menu is still unknown.
4. No Service Manual has become available yet.
5. Pretty sure it is 1.2
6. No firmware or hardware changes since it's release.

It is the source material, not the TV.

If you want to verify this, get a copy of the Miami Vice HD-DVD. I had the same fuzz on my old rp crt hdtv with it.

Agreed.

xnappo

1. I'm pretty sure it is a S-IPS panel if I remember correctly. X_Caliber could probably confirm though.

6. No firmware or hardware changes since it's release.

Many thanks for your reply!
OK! S-IPS! But who is the manufacturer? Not all S-IPSs are equally good :)
IMO this is the most important question.
BTW any stickers on the unit?

First of all, welcome to the thread. There have been many people in this thread and others that I have read with ATI cards and 1920x1080 using DVI. I am pretty sure it is a known driver issue by ATI. By rolling back to older drivers you could fix it. Others have also fixed it with forcing a different refresh rate of 75Hz. Hope that helps.
Thanx for the quick response! I'm running 64bit Vista as my primary and have used both the 7-5 and the 7-6 drivers with no luck. I tried both of these under 32bit XP as well with the same result. Does anyone know what driver rev I need to possibly make it work? I really hate trying them one at a time... :p As for the refresh rate, Been there Done that! :)

Thanx for the quick response! I'm running 64bit Vista as my primary and have used both the 7-5 and the 7-6 drivers with no luck. I tried both of these under 32bit XP as well with the same result. Does anyone know what driver rev I need to possibly make it work? I really hate trying them one at a time... :p As for the refresh rate, Been there Done that! :)

Honestly I hate to be that guy ... you know the guy that gives you the bad news but I have been having the same problem for 14 days..

I have bought 5 new cables and downloaded every driver under the sun and gone through every fix...

I have a 8800 gts superclocked on order right now... there is my fix

I want to kill everyone at ATI !!!!

It is the source material, not the TV.

If you want to verify this, get a copy of the Miami Vice HD-DVD. I had the same fuzz on my old rp crt hdtv with it.


WHAT THE DEVIL?!?!

That is there even on HD DVDs?!?

Or is it just on this monitor because if that is the case that is ok too... I just want to know what I am supposed to be looking for

As I have stated before in this thread. For ATI Users, Use catalyst drivers 7.1 to get rid of the underscan / black bars. Once you install Ver 7.1 change your refresh rate to 75hz. That should fix your problem. Worked for me and my ati xt1900 card.

As I have stated before in this thread. For ATI Users, Use catalyst drivers 7.1 to get rid of the underscan / black bars. Once you install Ver 7.1 change your refresh rate to 75hz. That should fix your problem. Worked for me and my ati xt1900 card.

I tried that with a x1300 pro and it didnt work... cleaned ALL the ATI software off my machine and out of the registry and still didnt work

It is the source material, not the TV.

If you want to verify this, get a copy of the Miami Vice HD-DVD. I had the same fuzz on my old rp crt hdtv with it.

pretty funny.. I took the Serenity standard def dvd into the living room to play on a CRT 32" Insignia with a pos dvd player and sure enough the fuzz was there too....

reason I didnt know this and never saw it before is that I dont sit 2 feet from it when watching movies and the picture on there is of course...

SO MUCH SMALLER

sometimes I feel like an idiot

Not necessarily. My Tivo seems to do a better job of upscaling than the TV. Much better for SD stuff, anyway, HD material is probably not as big of a difference.

Ed

I have a tivo too - what do you have yours set to - force everything to 1080i?

As I have stated before in this thread. For ATI Users, Use catalyst drivers 7.1 to get rid of the underscan / black bars. Once you install Ver 7.1 change your refresh rate to 75hz. That should fix your problem. Worked for me and my ati xt1900 card.
Thank you! I will give it a try and let you know the results. Also it might be smart to break out this thread...I read through somewhere between 25 and 30 pages before I registered and asked. :) Lots of great info though! And I WILL get through the rest of the pages as well. :cool:

Thank you! I will give it a try and let you know the results. Also it might be smart to break out this thread...I read through somewhere between 25 and 30 pages before I registered and asked. :) Lots of great info though! And I WILL get through the rest of the pages as well. :cool:
There's already a big thread here about ATI cards and 1080p in general:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=729041

I installed newest drivers and catalyst, and it was still giving me problems. but it worked perfect after I turned off the two DVI options in catalyst.

I installed newest drivers and catalyst, and it was still giving me problems. but it worked perfect after I turned off the two DVI options in catalyst.

hehe I never found that other option for DVI where it was supposed to be

According to my source S-IPS panels are manufactured ONLY by LPL.
LPL has just one FHD panel of each size: LC420WU1 and LC470WU1.
The specs for both panels are identical. The cross comparison of mentioned LPL panels with TX spec indicates some discrepancy.

1. LPL panels have 72% of color saturation and TX has 75%
2. CR for LPL is 1600:1 (dynamic) for TX - 1000:1 (TBD)
3. Viewing angle for LPLs is 178/178 for TXs 176/176.

The differences are very small but big enough to confuse me.
To be sure that TX LCD panel is really LPL S-IPS would make or break the deal for me.
Please advise!

In addition to my previous post re TX panel manufacturer.

CMO has the same size LCD FHD panels: V420H1 and V470H1.
The specs for both panels are identical. The cross comparison of these panels with TXs indicates no discrepancy at all.

1. CMO has 75% of color saturation – same as TX
2. CMO has 1000:1 CR, same as TX
3. Viewing angle for CMO is 88/88/88/88 this is equivalent to TX’s 176/176.

IMO Westy has CMO panels, and this not a S-IPS.
I’ll be glad to be mistaken, so please correct me.

even with sharpness to 0 (where it is at) I still get the fuzz


here are 2 pics to get an idea (this is of the HD DVD of Serenity)

I know they were paused but the pixelation fuzz like in the circles is what I get

http://www.chiahatesyou.com/pics/chia/hdtv/
Does this noise look blocky? If NOT then you must realize that with increased clarity of picture comes increased visibility of the normal and natural noise that is present in cinema film. If the picture looks soft and diagonal lines demonstrate aliasing and false contouring then it means the player is failing to enter film mode properly. There's not much to be done about this particular thing unless you want to buy a better player. I'm not privy to the performance of the Xbox 360 HD-DVD player because had never intended to buy one so I can't advise on it's competence with deinterlacing or cadence detection.

In addition to my previous post re TX panel manufacturer.

CMO has the same size LCD FHD panels: V420H1 and V470H1.
The specs for both panels are identical. The cross comparison of these panels with TXs indicates no discrepancy at all.

1. CMO has 75% of color saturation – same as TX
2. CMO has 1000:1 CR, same as TX
3. Viewing angle for CMO is 88/88/88/88 this is equivalent to TX’s 176/176.

IMO Westy has CMO panels, and this not a S-IPS.
I’ll be glad to be mistaken, so please correct me.
You are correct. The TX uses an MVA (actually a slightly newer hybrid MVA but not the improved A-MVA matrix) panel from Chi Mei Optoelectronics. Original plans called for a migration to a cold cathode backlight unit with 90% color gamut coverage but this did not make the cut. CMO actually makes a number of variations of their full HD panels. The English version of their website has not been properly updated in ages.

There is nothing really wrong with IPS so I don't know what the big deal would have been. The viewing angles properties are different but not worse really, and while they're known for producing weak black levels I haven't exactly been impressed with the ones I actually see on the TX anyway. Pound for pound I would personally take an MVA matrix though, particularly a PVA variant.

5. Pretty sure it is 1.2

1.1 actually. From a consumer standpoint there is absolutely no difference. :)

There's already a big thread here about ATI cards and 1080p in general. The site won't allow me to post a link, but change the thread number (t=) part of your URL to 729041 to get there.
Great thread! Good info. I need to try a bunch of those things when I get home. I didn't realize that other brands were having the same issue. Might be time for me to get an 8800GTX. :)

Greetings All,
I have been enjoying my TX47 for several weeks now, purchased from BB. Found 3 stuck pixels Read up to my red eyeballs in this forum (which I wonder how I ever lived without) Love the DVI to HDMI from my NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT. Love the OTA reception with my RS-VU-120 XR. Love my sound ported to the Sony STR-DG500. Ready to give away the RCA-DT DRD430CA. Spend 50% on Computer via HDMI-1, 25% RCA DT., 15% OVA, 5% DVD, and 5% adjusting.

Here's the juice, check out the pdf file. (which I can not link) Woke up this morning to find my TV on HDMI-1 with my Google Earth. Now my eyes are pretty screwed up first thing in the morning without my gallon of coffee, but this was not a lack of coffee, or too much NFSC into the wee hours of the night. I have dubbed it the Matrix affect. Would love some feedback.

Google: OTBP, Lugoff first hit is bellsouth, remove csw(dot)htm and replace with matrix(dot)pdf

Does this noise look blocky? If NOT then you must realize that with increased clarity of picture comes increased visibility of the normal and natural noise that is present in cinema film. If the picture looks soft and diagonal lines demonstrate aliasing and false contouring then it means the player is failing to enter film mode properly. There's not much to be done about this particular thing unless you want to buy a better player. I'm not privy to the performance of the Xbox 360 HD-DVD player because had never intended to buy one so I can't advise on it's competence with deinterlacing or cadence detection.

I realized the problem was me... I had been trying to fix a problem that was never even really there. I have noise in the dvd playback from hddvd and standard but I saw demos at Best Buy today (on different tvs) that had the same noise ... I guess I just really didnt know what I was looking for when I first got this tv lol

I can switch from trying to fix it to just enjoying it now.

edit : ps: thank you!

You are correct. The TX uses an MVA (actually a slightly newer hybrid MVA but not the improved A-MVA matrix) panel from Chi Mei Optoelectronics. Original plans called for a migration to a cold cathode backlight unit with 90% color gamut coverage but this did not make the cut. CMO actually makes a number of variations of their full HD panels. The English version of their website has not been properly updated in ages.

There is nothing really wrong with IPS so I don't know what the big deal would have been. The viewing angles properties are different but not worse really, and while they're known for producing weak black levels I haven't exactly been impressed with the ones I actually see on the TX anyway. Pound for pound I would personally take an MVA matrix though, particularly a PVA variant.

Of course, it is nothing wrong with S-IPS, I’d love to have this type of panel, but even after your reply the situation is extremely confusing

IMO A-MVA mentioned by you belongs to AUO, not to CMO. FHD Super MVA (S-MVA) from CMO has completely different pixel pattern (AFAIK honeycombed). If I am not mistaken MVA from CMO is known to be the LCD panel for LVM line of Westy monitors.
OTOH, TX spec is just a cc from LVM spec, which has different LCD panel, Something is very wrong about it.

It is very common now to equip the same TV set with panels from different vendors. I am sure that it is a very good chance, regardless on what in a spec, that some Westy TVs may have LPL panels.
There are a number of ways to clarify it:
1. Check vendor type options and settings in SM (no access yet, brrrr…)
2. Contact Westy for clarification (not sure they will cooperate on this)
3. Compare apple and oranges on our own. Pixels pattern is unique for each vendor. We can compare TX pixel pattern vs. other known panels patterns for identification. This is not as straight forward as vendor type from SM, but it might work.

What to do:
Please take a close (micro) digital picture of your TXs, LVMs, and other recently acquired FHDTV (old panels may have different shape duo to technology change) and post it in this thread. In the end we will be able to distinguish between vendors and panel type. Please accompany this photo with information about your TV set model # and hardware revision if this information available.
For best results make the screen white and increase backlight and brightness.

Should you have any question re please contact me.
Looking forward to see many photos very soon.

...I'm now on my SECOND TX-42. I'm using it exclusively as my computer monitor. The first had a problem with running my computer through a DVI to HDMI cable. At 1920x1080@60hz I would have a 3/4" to 1 1/4" black band all the way around the screen. Basically it made the 42" monitor be a 38" monitor. ...

Basically he told me I was having a conflict between the vid card(s) and the monitor.

This is what fixed it for my ATI HD 2400 Pro:
(full: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=729041)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've put together a simple executable to set the registry settings.
For all display configurations, it adds "DALR6 DFP", "DALR6 CRT"
and "DALCV" underscan for 1920x1080 and 1280x720. It might
require a C runtime DLL, let me know if you try running it and it
complains about a missing library. Also, I only have Windows XP
to test it here, so I have no idea right now where the correct
registry keys are under Vista (i.e., this may or may not work,
but probably won't for Vista). Good luck!

http://209.218.200.18/ht/FixMyUnderscan.exe

Permission is granted to freely copy or distribute this application
with no restriction, as long as credit is given to the original author,
"PapaSloth on AVS Forum".
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I ran it, started CCC as indicated, exited CCC without making any changes, rebooted, and had full screen, no black borders.


p.

Greetings All,
I have been enjoying my TX47 for several weeks now, purchased from BB. Found 3 stuck pixels Read up to my red eyeballs in this forum (which I wonder how I ever lived without) Love the DVI to HDMI from my NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT. Love the OTA reception with my RS-VU-120 XR. Love my sound ported to the Sony STR-DG500. Ready to give away the RCA-DT DRD430CA. Spend 50% on Computer via HDMI-1, 25% RCA DT., 15% OVA, 5% DVD, and 5% adjusting.

Here's the juice, check out the pdf file. Matirx (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf) Woke up this morning to find my TV on HDMI-1 with my Google Earth. Now my eyes are pretty screwed up first thing in the morning without my gallon of coffee, but this was not a lack of coffee, or too much NFSC into the wee hours of the night. I have dubbed it the Matrix affect. Would love some feedback.


This is the Link to the PDF file that has composed pictures of my TX47. Viewers and Comments welcome.
Matirx (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf)

1.1 actually. From a consumer standpoint there is absolutely no difference. :)

Man, I'm reading too many threads to keep any of this information straight! Thanks for correcting me on the panel and HDMI info.

This is the Link to the PDF file that has composed pictures of my TX47. Viewers and Comments welcome.
Matirx (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf)

Something is seriously whacked there. Does this do it on all inputs? Are you sure you didn't have a "baseball bat accident" in the middle of the night?

LPL LCD panel pixel pattern for S-IPS, CCFL, 8bit, 60Hz looks like this:

http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:62:11088:0:2

Great thread! Good info. I need to try a bunch of those things when I get home. I didn't realize that other brands were having the same issue. Might be time for me to get an 8800GTX. :)

Strange issue. Granted I have the LVM and not the TX, but I'm running a ATI x850 via DVI with no problems whatsoever. I'd find it strange that ATI cards have a problem on the TX's, but not the LVM's.

A the G

I really didn't intend to do this, but the challenge got to me. It doesn't look like it's going to help your conclusion though, unless this is a really unique pattern.

TX-47 built April 13, 2007
PN: TW-51201-L047A
SN: 5120J71700432


TF50

A the G

I really didn't intend to do this, but the challenge got to me. It doesn't look like it's going to help your conclusion though, unless this is a really unique pattern.

TX-47 built April 13, 2007
PN: TW-51201-L047A
SN: 5120J71700432


TF50

Thank you! Looks like S-IPS for me.
Now we need a LVM picture, PLEASE!.

Thank you! Looks like S-IPS for me.
Now we need a LVM picture, PLEASE!.

Alex,

Just curious - do you consider that a good thing or bad thing?

At any rate your endevour is educational :)

xnappo

Attached please find CMO MVA with CCFL back light (panel ID CMO4).
This panel is used in some HD Ready Samsung 32" TV.

Alex,

Just curious - do you consider that a good thing or bad thing?

At any rate your endevour is educational :)

xnappo

Tnx, you are very kind.
This is not about curiosity. S-IPS panels is one of best on the market now. Having known that Westy installed this panel in 'economical' HDTV would make me to pull the trigger on this set. At least this is a big plus.
BTW I'd not be surprised if next lot of this TVs will show up without this bonus (IMO)

And there is always hope of that service code! Note the 'gamma select' item on the LVM series:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=689997&page=7&pp=30

Argh!

xnappo

Is the gamma select the equivalent to the settings of RGB ranging on the values of 0-255?

Also, i was wondering if anyone can send me a private message of their settings for their calibrated tv, and what their using it for like tv, computer, movies, games, etc. I wanna compile a list so i can hopefully send to huggybear to edit the first post so when people look at this huge thread, they can just look at the original post for calibrated settings.

Thanks in advance.

Is the gamma select the equivalent to the settings of RGB ranging on the values of 0-255?


Hi Joseph,

No, gamma select is a different adjustment that controls the equation that governs how grey scale is rendered. The hope is the adjustment will allow for more shadow detail.

xnappo

Is the gamma select the equivalent to the settings of RGB ranging on the values of 0-255?


Thanks in advance.

AFAIK 1-256 range is exclusively available in xvYCC color space.

A the G

I really didn't intend to do this, but the challenge got to me. It doesn't look like it's going to help your conclusion though, unless this is a really unique pattern.

TX-47 built April 13, 2007
PN: TW-51201-L047A
SN: 5120J71700432


TF50

How the heck do you take a picture so close?

How the heck do you take a picture so close?

I actually just did it myself out of curiosity - with a camera with a decent macro (mine goes to 0mm) it is quite easy. Pretty interesting.

You do of course have to digitally zoom in more using a photo editor.

xnappo

How the heck do you take a picture so close?

This was just using a Canon SD400 Elph.
Tripod, flash off, macro, (digital macro on this to get focus) and about an inch off the screen. You won't be able to make this out in the camera LCD, but as long as it looks in focus it should come out.

So seriously.

Is this a good television set? It's the cheapest 1080p BB carries (esp with the 10% coupon) and at 42" it's a great size.

It just worries me about the muara (i dunno what that is) and other banding and other hdmi issues

So seriously.

Is this a good television set? It's the cheapest 1080p BB carries (esp with the 10% coupon) and at 42" it's a great size.

It just worries me about the muara (i dunno what that is) and other banding and other hdmi issues

Well, this set doesn't have any serious problems with the things you highlighted. Other than some minor weirdness that will likely be fixed in a firmware release the main thing that you *may* lose out on is black levels vs. higher end sets. However I haven't personally had a high end LCD in my home, so I can't say how big the difference is.

xnappo

Man, I'm reading too many threads to keep any of this information straight! Thanks for correcting me on the panel and HDMI info.

Something is seriously whacked there. Does this do it on all inputs? Are you sure you didn't have a "baseball bat accident" in the middle of the night?

No baseball bat that I know of. I have only seen this twice on my set since I purchased it. The set is surge protected by an "Monster Cable" Power Center AV700. The set will do this on all inputs until the power is removed, all cables are removed and the TV is brought up on the last known good connection. The picture displays first the set on HDMI-1 connected to the PC with Google Earth, the second set of pictures show it with this forum up, and the next set show the "Special White House Report" coming in via OTA, HD WIS-TV 10.1. I'm reading in some other AVS forums about newer Surge Suppression.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=277384&highlight=surge+protectors



Attached please find CMO MVA with CCFL back light (panel ID CMO4).
This panel is used in some HD Ready Samsung 32" TV.

Pixel
TX47 (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/tx47.jpg)

TX47
PN# TW-51201-L047A
Software Version:5110_1.1.0
Build-on: 2007 April 13

This is the Link to the PDF file that has composed pictures of my TX47. Viewers and Comments welcome.
Matirx (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf)

Is anyone here ISF certified or know someone ISF certified that can ask Westinghouse for the service menu code? I've tried asking myself with no luck, and I've tried messaging the guy who got the code for the LVM for the forum with no luck. Maybe they will release it to someone who they think will have the technical knowledge not to destroy the TV.

I PMed the only one I know and he checked some private ISF forums and didn't find anything. He said Westinghouse has been very tight with them.

He suggested I post to this thread asking for a code:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11016833#post11016833
Which I did... I don't have high hopes of an answer any time soon though :(

xnappo

Finally put in my order for a TX47. Should be here at the end of next week. Guess I can finally stop complaining about the PS3 not scaling to 1080i. :)

Anyway, can't wait for some 1080p goodness. I'm upgrading from a 6 year old Samsung 40" RPTV.

Would this be a good set for HD Sports? The reason I ask is I've got the BB 10% off coupon and it expires at the end of the month. I just received a BB credit card (only my second card) and I plan to purchase it for around $1300 (tax+ext. warranty) and pay half immediately (half in cash, half on card) and just pay the $110/mth for the 6-month no APR period. Seems like a decent way to build interest-free credit at the same time.

I've got an XBOX 360, a PC with an X1950XT (will switch to 8800GTS if I can't get the damn thing to work -- seems like nVidia cards are flawless), and hopefully I'll be getting Dish Network HD when I move into my new apartments.

I game a lot, I want to watch college football/basketball in HD and I want to use my PC.

Will this set be my best option at the current price point?

Will this set be my best option at the current price point?


Heh, I think you're asking a somewhat biased group (myself included). I don't know that anyone's bought a TX47/42 and returned it for something else besides maybe Benzoate. So I'd say despite several swap-outs at BestBuy within the 30-day window to fix a few minor issues, everyone seems pretty happy.

I just got my 8800 gts in today and I am now hooked dvi to hdmi

it is much better. I can SEE the difference and not to mention the headache of ATI is all in the past.

That 8800 was the biggest graphics card I have ever seen too... it was 3-3.5 times bigger than my ATI x1300pro

this tv is completely worth every penny ... now

I've noticed that the VGA connection seems to have better black levels or a not so crazy gamma curve. Can someone check this by calibrating through vga compared to hdmi?

I've also noticed you cant change color temp settings over VGA, nothing changes.

My settings for xbox360 over VGA are basically

Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Saturation 60
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 30

HDMI Cable box settings

Brightness 41-45
Contrast 60-62
Saturation 60
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 30

PS3 HDMI

Brightness 49-52
Contrast 58
Saturation 60
Hue 50
Sharpness 0
Backlight 30

Alex, here is the pixel structure image from LVM-47W1 firmware 1.05.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/5888/pixelsem8.jpg

Wow, I picked a TX-42F430S yesterday and what a disappointment... sad... I'm taking it back or something. I've been tweaking it for 2 days and nothing, nothing... Any thoughts?
Sorry for the bad (horrible) pictures but the idea is to be focused in the purplish lines. Before you jump in conclusions I tried all the factory standard settings, my settings and this forum users settings. Nada....

Normal view (looks purple, not black or dark grey

http://i7.tinypic.com/5xhxruq.jpg

PS3 with HDMI

http://i11.tinypic.com/6bnznvc.jpg

Black Hawk Down (Oh this looks Awful)

http://i13.tinypic.com/4t6upnr.jpg

One more, added extra brightness

http://i14.tinypic.com/66ltgfp.jpg

I tweaked and I tweaked and nothing... am I missing something? This is the last one. Standard def. At least the background looks black... lol, sad.... Backlight all the way to zero:

http://i8.tinypic.com/4th1840.jpg


Any help is really appreciated... thanks!

2 days of blood sweat and tears would be enough for me. Go Get Your Satisfaction!

Pixel
TX47 (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/tx47.jpg)

TX47
Software Version:5110_1.1.0
Build-on: 2007 April 13

[/URL]

Tnx Woobiezer. Please post P/N as well.

Alex, here is the pixel structure image from LVM-47W1 firmware 1.05.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/5888/pixelsem8.jpg

Great,
Could you please provide model and part numbers. As you can see this is completely different panel. Now we need info from LVM SM about panel type and vendor. Please take a picture of SM relevant page.

Great,
Could you please provide model and part numbers. As you can see this is completely different panel. Now we need info from LVM SM about panel type and vendor. Please take a picture of SM relevant page.

As noted in my original post, this is from Westinghouse LVM-47W1 with firmware 1.05. It is the predecessor to the current TX model. To the best of my knowledge this is a CMO panel.

Broken?

Yes, broken!

xnappo

Any help is really appreciated... thanks!

You need to lower you backlight wayy down. The blacks are going to look bad and your mura is going to look much worse with full backlight.

As noted in my original post, this is from Westinghouse LVM-47W1 with firmware 1.05. It is the predecessor to the current TX model. To the best of my knowledge this is a CMO panel.

Thank you for your cooperation. Closer micro would be more informative. I am sure it is for your mutual interest to go to the bottom of this issue.
OK, lets continue :)
From one of the previous post I noticed that TXs have P/N attached to them.
Looks like this:
TX-47 built April 13, 2007
PN: TW-51201-L047A
Does LVMs have something similar? I have a feeling that P/N suffix might contain encoded information about panel’s vendor and revision. Anyway it is reasonable to keep it together with the panel “fingerprint”.
It is known that LVM panel is CMO, but to nail it down I need info from SM. Do you know how to access SM?
I do not know the structure of TX service menu - I have only experience with Sammy SM witch contains information about panel vendor type and options. For instance panel options looks like this:
AMLCD_INT CPT_INT AMLCD_EXT AUO_EXT_P AUO_EXT_N AUO_INT CMO_EXT CMO_INT.
It is very possible that LVM SM contains other panel options including LPL - TBC
LVM’s SM picture probably can be found in multiple Westy LVM threads. So we badly need it. Please advise.

T
It is very possible that LVM SM contains other panel options including LPL - TBC
LVM’s SM picture probably can be found in multiple Westy LVM threads. So we badly need it. Please advise.

Alex,

See this post for a pic of the LVM service menu:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=689997&page=7&pp=30

Not much detailed info other than the panel type.

xnappo

Alex,

See this post for a pic of the LVM service menu:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=689997&page=7&pp=30

Not much detailed info other than the panel type.

xnappo

Good! Lets move on,
Would it be possible to navigate to Panel Type and enter in Panel Type submenu or alternate CMO with left and right arrow keys?
Are there any other settings under the CMO? Could you please clarify it?

Good! Lets move on,
Would it be possible to navigate to Panel Type and enter in Panel Type submenu or alternate CMO with left and right arrow keys?
Are there any other settings under the CMO? Could you please clarify it?

I have a TX, so I don't know.

Instruction for entry for someone with an LVM are here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7873814&&#post7873814

xnappo

You need to lower you backlight wayy down. The blacks are going to look bad and your mura is going to look much worse with full backlight.

The last one is with 0 (zero) backlight, still see it purplish

The last one is with 0 (zero) backlight, still see it purplish

Yeah, it is not normal to be that purple. Return it.

xnappo

Of course, it is nothing wrong with S-IPS, I’d love to have this type of panel, but even after your reply the situation is extremely confusing

IMO A-MVA mentioned by you belongs to AUO, not to CMO. FHD Super MVA (S-MVA) from CMO has completely different pixel pattern (AFAIK honeycombed). If I am not mistaken MVA from CMO is known to be the LCD panel for LVM line of Westy monitors.
OTOH, TX spec is just a cc from LVM spec, which has different LCD panel, Something is very wrong about it.

It is very common now to equip the same TV set with panels from different vendors. I am sure that it is a very good chance, regardless on what in a spec, that some Westy TVs may have LPL panels.
There are a number of ways to clarify it:
1. Check vendor type options and settings in SM (no access yet, brrrr…)
2. Contact Westy for clarification (not sure they will cooperate on this)
3. Compare apple and oranges on our own. Pixels pattern is unique for each vendor. We can compare TX pixel pattern vs. other known panels patterns for identification. This is not as straight forward as vendor type from SM, but it might work.

What to do:
Please take a close (micro) digital picture of your TXs, LVMs, and other recently acquired FHDTV (old panels may have different shape duo to technology change) and post it in this thread. In the end we will be able to distinguish between vendors and panel type. Please accompany this photo with information about your TV set model # and hardware revision if this information available.
For best results make the screen white and increase backlight and brightness.

Should you have any question re please contact me.
Looking forward to see many photos very soon.

Naturally. Some of the models are sourced differently. The current 26" is LPL and the 32" is AUO. The FHD panels have always been exclusively from CMO, according to their own president. If these are IPS panels you've made an interesting find. I'll check out my own tonight. It would explain why the black levels are so terrible I guess. When I mentioned A-MVA I was referring specifically to it. Other manufacturers can and will license rights to produce this type and it would be a smart move to do so. CMO's S-MVA does nothing to improve the viewing angle concern with regards to luminance and so it's an inferior product. Not to take away from the fact that it's still an improvement over the orignal MVA design.

Why such an interest in researching this so exhaustively? We already know what's in the tv, but even if that wasn't the case what does knowing really change if I may ask?

edit: actually just because it may be an IPS panel doesn't mean it's from LPL necessarily. CMO has also manufactured IPS panel types in the past, though I do not know if they've produced FHD versions.

Good! Lets move on,
Would it be possible to navigate to Panel Type and enter in Panel Type submenu or alternate CMO with left and right arrow keys?
Are there any other settings under the CMO? Could you please clarify it?
FYI that service menu does not exist on the TX. Not to say a service menu does not, but the LVM series used a completely different chipset and that service menu is exclusive to it. The panel type information is nothing but a "fyi" piece of data coded in the firmware just like the date of manufacture is.

I just called Westinghouse to follow up on my inquiry about the lack of 5.1 audio via the internal tuner - still no response from "engineering". However, every person I have ever talked to over there seems convinced that the TX series DOES support 5.1 audio via the tuner when using ATSC. They were unable to verify if it is supposed to work with QAM as well.

I told the CSR that I tried with both QAM and ATSC and no go... he put me on hold for a bit and came back and told me to try this:

While watching a show that is supposed to be broadcasting in 5.1, enter the audio menu and try changing the digital audio option to the other choices - French and Spanish.

His explanation was that toggling through English, Spanish and French should just toggle through the different audio streams - the default English is obviously 2 channel stereo Englsh, while French or Spanish may actually select 5.1 English if available.

Certainly worth a shot!

My set is hooked up to QAM cable so I will test with that tonight. I don't feel like hooking up an antenna and rescanning so can someone who has an antenna hooked up try this test tonight?

Try it with CSI on CBS as CSI broadcasts in 5.1 in most areas.

Hi all, been traveling so I haven't checked in for a while but I realized that I never posted an update regarding this experiment.. it did NOT work. One night I tried toggling the digital audio between english, french and spanish while watching CSI (confirmed 5.1 broadcast in my area)... I tried using both QAM and ATSC - all 3 selections produce english 2 channel DD via the SPDIF out.

When I call Westinghouse they say that engineering never got back to them. So as it stands, the TX series clearly DOES NOT support 5.1 DD output via the SPDIF out when the source is the internal tuner. As others including myself have reported, you can pass 5.1 through HDMI (confirmed working with PS3).

The good news is that it isn't a hardware limitation since it does work with HDMI... also, the firmware does allow you to switch audio streams from the tuner input (the current choices being english, spanish and french). Therefore, it certainly looks like something that could be remedied with a firmware update... just a matter of if and when.

I urge everyone to call Westinghouse to report this as a problem so they know that we are aware of it and we want it fixed ;)

huggybear,

Since you are outputting SPDIF from your TX to receiver can you adjust the volume using the TX remote and have it adjust the volume going to your receiver? I'm wondering if this is different at all from the analog output (which does not allow adjustment of the volume using the TX Remote).

huggybear,

Since you are outputting SPDIF from your TX to receiver can you adjust the volume using the TX remote and have it adjust the volume going to your receiver? I'm wondering if this is different at all from the analog output (which does not allow adjustment of the volume using the TX Remote).

Hi flabioh, I'm not at home now so I cannot test but from what I remember, adjusting the TX volume produces no/minimal effect when using the SPDIF out - I just use my audio receiver remote when using the external sound.

huggybear,

Since you are outputting SPDIF from your TX to receiver can you adjust the volume using the TX remote and have it adjust the volume going to your receiver? I'm wondering if this is different at all from the analog output (which does not allow adjustment of the volume using the TX Remote).

The volume does not adjust on a receiver. If you set the volume to 0 though on the westy, it will mute the audio to the receiver. Any setting above 1 on the tv produces the same volume.

I can get 5.1 through HDMI with my cable box and PS3, but the audio options on each device need to be set to HDMI and not auto.

...........
Why such an interest in researching this so exhaustively? We already know what's in the tv, but even if that wasn't the case what does knowing really change if I may ask?

edit: actually just because it may be an IPS panel doesn't mean it's from LPL necessarily. CMO has also manufactured IPS panel types in the past, though I do not know if they've produced FHD versions.

Thank you Xcalibur for asking. Why I am interested in this research? First of all because I am professional senior level scientific researcher. Second I just returned to BB 4061 unit and I do not want the money flame the hole in my pocked and escape leaving behind the small of single malt, female perfume and Cuban (im from Canada :)) cigar. Am I answer your question? :)

Seriously, after exercising HDTV for a couple of months it is a bit painful to watch old SDTV and I’d like to go again HD asap. But I want to spend money wisely. IMO if we will be able to confirm that TX has premium quality S-IPS panel from LPL this would be a great incentive for me to pull the trigger on this set.

Seriously, after exercising HDTV for a couple of months it is a bit painful to watch old SDTV and I’d like to go again HD asap. But I want to spend money wisely. IMO if we will be able to confirm that TX has premium quality S-IPS panel from LPL this would be a great incentive for me to pull the trigger on this set.

Alex, I am curious why you think the S-IPS is so good? From Wikipedia info(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TFT_LCD) and what I have seen with black levels on the TX - I think I would rather have the LVM panel.

What did you not like about the 4061?

Thanks,
xnappo

I don't plan on outputting audio from the Westy to my receiver.

Instead, I plan to directly connect each source's video to the Westy, then it's audio to my reciever.

Does anyone know if when using HDMI (for video) you can use SPDIF (optical or coax, depending on device) for 5.1/DD/DTS audio?

I don't plan on outputting audio from the Westy to my receiver.

Instead, I plan to directly connect each source's video to the Westy, then it's audio to my reciever.

Does anyone know if when using HDMI (for video) you can use SPDIF (optical or coax, depending on device) for 5.1/DD/DTS audio?

That is how my audio is set up. HDMI hooked up to the TV, sound coming out of SPDIF optical to my receiver in 5.1. Each device must be set to HDMI 5.1 audio though if applicable.

I bought the 47f430s last Monday at BB. The picture quality is good but I also have the purple feedback line across the bottom on the screen. Turning the deinterlace off did remove the line. But when I set the backlight to anything less than 100 I get a humming noise from the back of the set. Disconnecting audio changes nothing. Noise definitely not from speakers. I Would greatly appreciate any suggestions. This is my first lcd hd tv so i dont have much experience with trobleshooting them.

FYI that service menu does not exist on the TX. Not to say a service menu does not, but the LVM series used a completely different chipset and that service menu is exclusive to it. The panel type information is nothing but a "fyi" piece of data coded in the firmware just like the date of manufacture is.

From what I know I can tell you that TV electronics is designed to work with multiple type of panel. I cannot buy the fact that Westy developed TX and LVM motherboards from scratch. Most likely they just borrower the design from Trident (or whatever) chipset manufacturer. Those chipsets are supposed to be "unisexual" in term of panel support.

It is very unfortunate that nobody managed to open TX’s SM yet. From what you described I understood that it is impossible to alternate Panel Type setting in SM using remote control buttons. Did anybody try to play around this setting? Most likely nobody did it….

What about FW dump? Can we extract information about supported panel type and vendor from FW?

What about FW dump? Can we extract information about supported panel type and vendor from FW?

Alex, I really hope you buy a TX because I like your hacking mentality and you would probably be a great asset to us :D

No one here so far (including myself) has the experience to try to dump the firmware. Westinghouse has not released any firmware - and it is unclear if they will allow user updates or not. There is a USB port for firmware updating, but without SM access it does not do much good as far as potentially dumping it.

I have played around with the remote and previous SM entry sequences to no avail.

I really hope that they didn't do something like require a USB stick with a certain file on it to enter SM?

xnappo

I just got my 8800 gts in today and I am now hooked dvi to hdmi

it is much better. I can SEE the difference and not to mention the headache of ATI is all in the past.

That 8800 was the biggest graphics card I have ever seen too... it was 3-3.5 times bigger than my ATI x1300pro

this tv is completely worth every penny ... now

Am running the same card and it is huge, so huge it blocks me using 1 of my drive slots. I did the opposite of what you did, I bought the card first, hated it with my Philips TV and then bought this TV instead.

-Marcus

Am running the same card and it is huge, so huge it blocks me using 1 of my drive slots. I did the opposite of what you did, I bought the card first, hated it with my Philips TV and then bought this TV instead.

-Marcus

msattler - I am interested in your comparison between the TX and Phillips.

I assume you mean this one: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5633686

Particularly black levels and picture...

Thanks,
xnappo

I bought the 47f430s last Monday at BB. The picture quality is good but I also have the purple feedback line across the bottom on the screen. Turning the deinterlace off did remove the line. But when I set the backlight to anything less than 100 I get a humming noise from the back of the set. Disconnecting audio changes nothing. Noise definitely not from speakers. I Would greatly appreciate any suggestions. This is my first lcd hd tv so i dont have much experience with trobleshooting them.

Tested this on my set. Wanted to respond that I have to put my ear on the unit to hear it hum when the backlight is reduced to anything less than 100%.

Question for you:
What source, and what is your screensize set to from the menu?
What type (detail if possible) of surge suppression are you using on your TV?

Regards

Alex, I am curious why you think the S-IPS is so good? From Wikipedia info(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TFT_LCD) and what I have seen with black levels on the TX - I think I would rather have the LVM panel.

What did you not like about the 4061?

Thanks,
xnappo

It is really depends on how the set going to be used. LPL’s S-IPS is know to be a professional grade panel with natural and accurate color representation. S-IPS is expensive but it is the best choice as a computer monitor especially for working with colors. Unfortunately it is not fast enough to recommend it as a gaming display.

S-PVA from Samy is also beautiful LCD panel. The reasons for returne were:
1; 40” is too small for me.
2. 40” Sammy (8 bit/60Hz/72% ) is more expensive then 47 Westy (8bit/60Hz/75%).
3. If I am going to pay a big $$$ I’d like to have 10bit/120Hz/WCG set.
4. The model I had was HW#1004 with occasional pink flashes over HDMI 1080p60 feed.
This is about it.
Have a safe Friday 13th

Alex, I really hope you buy a TX because I like your hacking mentality and you would probably be a great asset to us :D

No one here so far (including myself) has the experience to try to dump the firmware. Westinghouse has not released any firmware - and it is unclear if they will allow user updates or not. There is a USB port for firmware updating, but without SM access it does not do much good as far as potentially dumping it.

I have played around with the remote and previous SM entry sequences to no avail.

I really hope that they didn't do something like require a USB stick with a certain file on it to enter SM?

xnappo

I am afraid you are not quite ready to my arrival. SM soil even not yet fertilized :)

Am running the same card and it is huge, so huge it blocks me using 1 of my drive slots. I did the opposite of what you did, I bought the card first, hated it with my Philips TV and then bought this TV instead.

-Marcus

Hi Marcus,

We are in the middle of our research and need your help. Could you please take a macro photo of your Phil pixels geometry?
Cheers
AG

Alex, I really hope you buy a TX because I like your hacking mentality and you would probably be a great asset to us :D

No one here so far (including myself) has the experience to try to dump the firmware. Westinghouse has not released any firmware - and it is unclear if they will allow user updates or not. There is a USB port for firmware updating, but without SM access it does not do much good as far as potentially dumping it.

I have played around with the remote and previous SM entry sequences to no avail.

I really hope that they didn't do something like require a USB stick with a certain file on it to enter SM?

xnappo

I am afraid you are not quite ready to my arrival. SM soil even not yet fertilized :)

Why Wait BB's soil is friable .. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euJhhgUb69c&NR=1)

IMO if we will be able to confirm that TX has premium quality S-IPS panel from LPL this would be a great incentive for me to pull the trigger on this set.
Ironically enough this knowledge would only make me further regret my purchase. We have pretty different opinions of IPS panels. I certainly wouldn't describe anything from LPL as "premium" either. They were arguably the first matrix type to really get LCD ahead of it's traditional problems over older types like TN film or VA, but compared to PVA/MVA or even the newer IPS-alpha the black performance is terrible and makes the overall contrast performance look like it's a full generation behind the competition.

I'm developing a love/hate relationship with my TX. With certain content the picture is excellent, but get lots of dark imagery on the screen and it's garbage. This is inline with the traditional IPS viewing experience. They just aren't any good with dark picture content. I would have greatly preferred an MVA panel. The rate of defects and overall quality from LPL leaves something to be desired, though I admit I did receive a panel almost completely free of flaws (and it's pretty rare).

I realize that I seem to bounce back and forth on my feelings on the set, but as I continue to spend more time with it I'm really realizing how important to me good black level and preservation of shadow detail is. I took it for granted when I was watching my CRT. If I could do it over again I wouldn't have bought it for the black performance reasons alone. Popping in some nice bright content does console me somewhat but one shouldn't have to make such a compromise with they've spent 4 digits on a new tv.

It's with mixed feelings that I say to everybody here my final verdict on my own purchase is that I wish I had waited another 3 months and bought a Samsung LN-T4665F. :( I'm not returning my TX though because I've always been firm about living with the choices one makes, even in things such as this. I'm already dreaming about what I would like to buy next time though, and that just isn't right when you just bought a new tv.

Xcalibur, VGA seems to have a completely different gamma setting than what I have played with over HDMI. I would suggest playing with test patterns over that VGA connection as a final comparison of what the TV can do as of now w this firmware. This is why XBOX360 seems like its putting out a better pic to me, and this is at 50/50 brightness/contrast. When i get time, i'm gonna try calibrating w my pc over VGA.

Ironically enough this knowledge would only make me further regret my purchase.

I agree. I thought I was buying an LVM series with a tuner. I might as well have bought last year's Vizio.

I would very much like to know the black level quality of the Phillips and Vizio in comparison. Though I hear the Phillips cannot disable dynamic contrast... I could live with the black level, but if I continue to have have lockup issues I might jump ship rather than try another TX.

xnappo

It is very common now to equip the same TV set with panels from different vendors. I am sure that it is a very good chance, regardless on what in a spec, that some Westy TVs may have LPL panels.

Yes, perhaps.

However the TX-4n430S set is new enough it is highly improbable they are using multiple vendors for first production runs.

As cost structures & availability change, yes, new panels may get swapped into production during the lifespan of a given model, without the public model number changing (perhaps a back sticker on set indicates revision level). The new panels may (likely!) require firmware/initial calibration setup changes.

Also, rev#s and build codes may or may not be 'fielded'. It's quite common for actual consumer electronic configuration to be determined by product ID or serial number range, and not a particular sub-field of digits in a product ID or S/N.



1. Check vendor type options and settings in SM (no access yet, brrrr…)


Yes, I've been hoping for service menu/service manual/schmatic. Lost cause.

2. Contact Westy for clarification (not sure they will cooperate on this)


Lost cause. Not only that, they've been telling me they haven't heard of power issues with the TX 47" set even though quite a few folks here have. And when I mentioned about discussion on "the forums", they just said there's a lotta misinformation on forums like this ;)


Please accompany this photo with information about your TV set model # and hardware revision if this information available. For best results make the screen white and increase backlight and brightness.

Because of the above, I think you're barking up a moot tree for a set that's only been in production/distribution for such a short time.

Maybe 6-8 months now your concept of panel-changeover may have some validity.

Also, I know of no one here with a TX that has a different build date/version #.


Bill Wiese
San Jose CA

Tested this on my set. Wanted to respond that I have to put my ear on the unit to hear it hum when the backlight is reduced to anything less than 100%.

Question for you:
What source, and what is your screensize set to from the menu?
What type (detail if possible) of surge suppression are you using on your TV?

Regards


Woobieizer, thanks for responding. I'm using a explorer 3250 HD cable box and a tripplite surge protection bar (with 3600 joules surge protect and coaxial surge protect up to 2.2GHz bandwith). Screensize is at standard but doesn't seem to matter.

I messed around a little more with it and i only get the humming noise when the tv is set to use one of the component feeds, regardless if I'm using it or not. I disconnected all wires except of course the power and as i go through the feeds using the remote (ie. YPbPr1,PC,HDMI,TV,YPbPr2, Video, S-Video and DVI) the tv only hums when on YPbPr1 and YPbPr2.

Xcalibur, VGA seems to have a completely different gamma setting than what I have played with over HDMI. I would suggest playing with test patterns over that VGA connection as a final comparison of what the TV can do as of now w this firmware. This is why XBOX360 seems like its putting out a better pic to me, and this is at 50/50 brightness/contrast. When i get time, i'm gonna try calibrating w my pc over VGA.
I'll drag my spare PC out and spend some time with VGA this weekend. Trouble is I cannot get internet access to it so test patterns are not conveniently available.

......
I'm developing a love/hate relationship with my TX. With certain content the picture is excellent, but get lots of dark imagery on the screen and it's garbage. This is inline with the traditional IPS viewing experience. They just aren't any good with dark picture content. ....

It's with mixed feelings that I say to everybody here my final verdict on my own purchase is that I wish I had waited another 3 months and bought a Samsung LN-T4665F. :( I'm not returning my TX though because I've always been firm about living with the choices one makes, even in things such as this. I'm already dreaming about what I would like to buy next time though, and that just isn't right when you just bought a new tv.
Thank you Sir! I think I can read between lines of your post and I can feel your pain! Your user experience and opinion are extremity valuable and important for me and I believe for other readers of this forum as well. I am convinced and I am gave up with TX – please accept my official resignation from this thread.

I want you to get me right, I am in a similar situation you were a few months ago. I can take 4665F now for a mere price, I can wait for 4671F or I can go for 46W3000. The key word is “NOW”! Because I hate waiting!

It always was, is and will be a big temptation to gat everything here and now 

I know that no medicine can help me :), but your comments and recommendations, if any, will be taken seriously.

I promise!

Very truly yours
AG

Thank you Sir! I think I can read between lines of your post and I can feel your pain! Your user experience and opinion are extremity valuable and important for me and I believe for other readers of this forum as well. I am convinced and I am gave up with TX – please accept my official resignation from this thread.

AG

Alex,

If you are still reading - can you please let us know the other sets you are investigating? I and several others are still within our 30 days - and if Philips or Vizio IS using a panel with great color AND black levels in bargain TVs it would be nice to know..

xnappo

Alex,

If you are still reading - can you please let us know the other sets you are investigating? I and several others are still within our 30 days - and if Philips or Vizio IS using a panel with great color AND black levels in bargain TVs it would be nice to know..

xnappo

Unfortunately Visio is not available in Canada :(
Alphabetically speaking: Hitachi, Pany, Phil, Sharp, Samy, Sony, Toshi.
IMO
AG

Unfortunately Visio is not available in Canada :(
Alphabetically speaking: Hitachi, Pany, Phil, Sharp, Samy, Sony, Toshi.
IMO
AG

Alex,

If I were to do everything over, I would seriously consider an LVM from NewEgg.

xnappo

Alex,

If I were to do everything over, I would seriously consider an LVM from NewEgg.

xnappo

Come on!!!
You are kidding... LVM is an ancient model. Am I an archivist?

:) :) :)

Come on!!!
You are kidding... LVM is an ancient model. Am I an archivist?

:) :) :)

IMHO Westinghouse chose an excellent panel to enter the market(at a loss) with a monitor only product(LVM), and then had to resort to lower quality panel to compete(make money) in the tuner TV market.

There have been few advances in LCD tech since 2002 that have made it to the 42"+ market - it is just a matter of what you are willing to pay for.

I seriously hope we get access to a SM to change the gamma and my opinion.

xnappo

Woobieizer, thanks for responding. I'm using a explorer 3250 HD cable box and a tripplite surge protection bar (with 3600 joules surge protect and coaxial surge protect up to 2.2GHz bandwith). Screensize is at standard but doesn't seem to matter.

I messed around a little more with it and i only get the humming noise when the tv is set to use one of the component feeds, regardless if I'm using it or not. I disconnected all wires except of course the power and as i go through the feeds using the remote (ie. YPbPr1,PC,HDMI,TV,YPbPr2, Video, S-Video and DVI) the tv only hums when on YPbPr1 and YPbPr2.

geopap, Thank you for your reply. I will keep my ear open for this, yet I believe your set has a "feature" that may warrant you to think hard about finding your box. I can make out a very faint hum on all my sources, with my ear to the set, as I am adjusting to "0". The hum decreases as Back Light is adjusted to the higher ranges.

I do not have the explorer 3250, nor the tripplite. And no purple line interferes my viewing. I have seen an issue with my set that I posted a few days ago. As you read through the posts here, remember, it is your satisfaction that matters. Tweaker, Pundits, Professionals, and Hackers are here, yet in all cases we are consumers. And the buck$ has to be respected.

Regards

I'll drag my spare PC out and spend some time with VGA this weekend. Trouble is I cannot get internet access to it so test patterns are not conveniently available.


it may sound\be too generic, yet I cound not resist trying. LCDtest.rar (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/LCDtest.rar)
There are too many folks to thanks, but I have to say thank you!. Several, Huggybear, yourself, Benzonate, others made my purchasing decision a easy feel. This is about VALUE as xnappo suggests. The only sleep I lose is from staying up all night playing Need for Speed Carbon, on the PC. :eek: Imaging this guy < with bright red eye sockets. Thats me. ;)


IMHO Westinghouse chose an excellent panel to enter the market(at a loss) with a monitor only product(LVM), and then had to resort to lower quality panel to compete(make money) in the tuner TV market.

There have been few advances in LCD tech since 2002 that have made it to the 42"+ market - it is just a matter of what you are willing to pay for.

I seriously hope we get access to a SM to change the gamma and my opinion.

xnappo

xnappo, I love that I could put up an outdoor antenna to pull in the HD content from the airwaves. This set put my 8 year old Toshiba 42" rear projection in the bedroom, on its way to my sisters house, up in the FROG.

My new set flickers like crazy now with PS3. They better get firmware fixes out fast to fix all these issues, because my high opinion of the set will drop if other better tvs reach the same price in a few months.

Its a shame, my other set had almost no flickering. I see the jutter now too with channels like ESPN

Thank you for your cooperation. Closer micro would be more informative. I am sure it is for your mutual interest to go to the bottom of this issue.
OK, lets continue :)
From one of the previous post I noticed that TXs have P/N attached to them.
Looks like this:
TX-47 built April 13, 2007
PN: TW-51201-L047A
Does LVMs have something similar? I have a feeling that P/N suffix might contain encoded information about panel’s vendor and revision. Anyway it is reasonable to keep it together with the panel “fingerprint”.
It is known that LVM panel is CMO, but to nail it down I need info from SM. Do you know how to access SM?
I do not know the structure of TX service menu - I have only experience with Sammy SM witch contains information about panel vendor type and options. For instance panel options looks like this:
AMLCD_INT CPT_INT AMLCD_EXT AUO_EXT_P AUO_EXT_N AUO_INT CMO_EXT CMO_INT.
It is very possible that LVM SM contains other panel options including LPL - TBC
LVM’s SM picture probably can be found in multiple Westy LVM threads. So we badly need it. Please advise.

I did not find a PN number either on the back of the set or the user menu displaying the firmware. I do have access to the service menu and have jumped into it a few times to alter the RGB values. I would be more than willing to help you out with the service menu access, but there is a small problem--I have meticulously calibrated every single input on my set with a host of devices, and as soon as I enter the SM, I have to employ factory reset to get out of it which in turn defaults all values on all inputs.

I do feel confident to tell you that the last time I entered the SM, which was a few months ago, I did read CMO in there and there was no option to toggle that value. Hope it helps.

IMHO Westinghouse chose an excellent panel to enter the market(at a loss) with a monitor only product(LVM), and then had to resort to lower quality panel to compete(make money) in the tuner TV market.

There have been few advances in LCD tech since 2002 that have made it to the 42"+ market - it is just a matter of what you are willing to pay for.

I seriously hope we get access to a SM to change the gamma and my opinion.

xnappo

I feel your pain, but if you put things in perspective by reading over the 37W1, 37W3, 42W2, and 47W threads, you will come to the painful conclusion that even thought these sets have been on the market for a relatively long time, we barely got access to the service menu by pestering one member who had close ties to Westinghouse Digital. If it were not for him, there wouldn't even be a SM. Not only that, the parameters that can be accessed and altered in SM are very limited--in case of 42W2 and 47W1, just the low level RGB adjustment.

Unless we hit a jackpot and get a forum member with inside ties to Westinghouse Digital, it would be a long shot to get hold of SM information, and considering how Westinghouse Digital hates us forum types, I'd find them quite reluctant to fork over SM information.

I did not find a PN number either on the back of the set or the user menu displaying the firmware. I do have access to the service menu and have jumped into it a few times to alter the RGB values. I would be more than willing to help you out with the service menu access, but there is a small problem--I have meticulously calibrated every single input on my set with a host of devices, and as soon as I enter the SM, I have to employ factory reset to get out of it which in turn defaults all values on all inputs.

I do feel confident to tell you that the last time I entered the SM, which was a few months ago, I did read CMO in there and there was no option to toggle that value. Hope it helps.

cavalry12, does your menu look like these?
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/26031/cat/502

This is a good test to see if your TV has "jutter" or skipped frames. Pop in Guitar Hero 2 for xbox360.

My TV jutters every second in that game.

cavalry12, does your menu look like these?
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/26031/cat/502

No it does not. I have the older LVM-47W1 which is just the monitor. The menu is significantly different on my set. It does not give access to RGB settings. In order to adjust those, I have to dive into the service menu.

Im not sure how much more reading I can do before buying a dang tv so I may go pick this westinghouse up tomorrow. I am curious, however, after reading nearly every 45 pages of this thread I see constant references to best buy coupons...where can I find one of those?

IMHO Westinghouse chose an excellent panel to enter the market(at a loss) with a monitor only product(LVM), and then had to resort to lower quality panel to compete(make money) in the tuner TV market.

There have been few advances in LCD tech since 2002 that have made it to the 42"+ market - it is just a matter of what you are willing to pay for.

I seriously hope we get access to a SM to change the gamma and my opinion.

xnappo
To be fair it's not my intention to crucify the panel that is in use in the TX. I feel embarrassed that I did not pick up on the IPS panel before Alex brought up the issue. I didn't even need a camera, I just got my face up to the screen while it was displaying white. The chevron shaped pixels are a dead give away, but something about the viewing angles and black performance felt odd to me from the moment I unboxed it and I can't believe I didn't realize right away it was an IPS panel.

IPS does do some things quite well. Contrary to what Alex said they handle fast motion quite competitively, usually better than PVA for example. It's just the black levels that are quite poor, because of the way those pixels are designed more light is allowed to leak. This also lowers the overall contrast performance. Westinghouse clearly carried over the LVM-42w2 numbers because it's suicide to publish a lower number than what you had last year. The actual rated contrast on the IPS panel we have here is 800:1. That itself isn't really an issue, but the effective contrast ratio during dark scenes is extremely poor.... below 100:1. This is why IPS panels produce a very flat image with dark material; there is just too much unintended light leakage ruining the contrast of the image. They are also traditionally poor at resolving shadow detail, but only because the poor dark contrast causes similar hues to tend to blend into each other, especially very near black. The set still has a very real gamma curve problem separate from this that is my single greatest issue with the set.

I think the odds of a firmware update correcting this is very low I hate to say. I don't want people to have false hope for it. Westinghouse is a company with limited resources and they would only roll out an update to fix a critical design bug that would represent a warranty liability to them. Even companies with more resources have no interest in correcting peformance issues that cannot be classified as design flaws. They've already got our money afterall. This definitely isn't the first LCD tv to have poor low level gamma performance so it's not like it can be billed as a defect.

I continue to be stymied by how the severity of the issue seems to fluctuate depending upon content, particularly HD vs. SD. If somebody ever cracks the service menu I'll be excited to find out what can be done in there. Westinghouse SMs are historically very limited. It depends upon the manufacturer. Sharp, for example, basically has no service menu at all, while others allow literally hundreds of parameters to be adjusted like was the case with my old JVC tv while in service mode.

In the end the panel being IPS is a mixed bag. In terms of useful viewing angle I think we got the good end of the deal along with marginally better color, but in exchange we get inferior black. I would've taken the blacks myself.

This is a good test to see if your TV has "jutter" or skipped frames. Pop in Guitar Hero 2 for xbox360.

My TV jutters every second in that game.

Does it go away on reboot?

Thanks,
xnappo

Does it go away on reboot?

Thanks,
xnappo

10 sec reboot of the set? Nope.

10 sec reboot of the set? Nope.

Hmm - so isn't that really pissing you off then?

I am seriously considering packing this thing up, returning to BB and heading to Walmart for a Philips 47PFL5432D. I had juttering last night, and the set was locked up again this morning.

There are not one but TWO Philips support people reading the forums here, and there have been multiple customer downloadable firmware updates. The biggest disadvantage is no VGA in.

xnappo

Hmm - so isn't that really pissing you off then?

I am seriously considering packing this thing up, returning to BB and heading to Walmart for a Philips 47PFL5432D. I had juttering last night, and the set was locked up again this morning.

There are not one but TWO Philips support people reading the forums here, and there have been multiple customer downloadable firmware updates. The biggest disadvantage is no VGA in.

xnappo

That was a big reason aside from price that I chose the Westinghouse. That VGA in at 1080p for xbox360 is pretty important to me. It's strange, I can only see the jutter during scrolling tickers, but in guitar hero 2, everything jutters. All other games are smooth as silk.

I'll give it until the end of the year when lcds drop in price. If the flickering/juttering/gamma/lockup issues dont improve or arent fixed, i'll probably get a samsung, they seem to be the best right now. If the 52" westy model is flawless, i may think about it.

That was a big reason aside from price that I chose the Westinghouse. That VGA in at 1080p for xbox360 is pretty important to me. It's strange, I can only see the jutter during scrolling tickers, but in guitar hero 2, everything jutters. All other games are smooth as silk.

I'll give it until the end of the year when lcds drop in price. If the flickering/juttering/gamma/lockup issues dont improve or arent fixed, i'll probably get a samsung, they seem to be the best right now. If the 52" westy model is flawless, i may think about it.

Well, I just played a few games comparing component to VGA - and while originally I cared about this, I no longer do as I don't see much difference if any.

Will let y'all know if I pull the trigger and how the Philips compares.

xnappo

This is a good test to see if your TV has "jutter" or skipped frames. Pop in Guitar Hero 2 for xbox360.

My TV jutters every second in that game.

Understand that the Westinghouse and most other HDTV displays use a fixed 60Hz panel refresh to avoid visible flicker in reduced lighting conditions when flourescent room lighting is in use. If you drive any video input with a video source set for 70Hz/75Hz/85Hz/etc refresh then at some point the extra frames will get skipped. The cure for this is to set the source for 60Hz frame rate wherever possible.

Although I own the LVM-47w1 which accepts up to 75Hz refresh, I game with a PC not a console - therefore I set the output video to 1080p60 to avoid stutter. The same frame rate works well with my PC-type ATSC tuners.

With the more sophisticated resolution scaling hardware in the TX series you might try setting the Xbox at 1024X768 @72Hz or 75Hz and see if the stutter goes away.

Displays that accept full 1080p at variable refresh rates are rare nowadays. I have no doubt that the industry will solve this eventually. Perhaps some of the few available 120Hz displays would accept the frame rate you are sending today, but these are typically pricey. Until these features reach budget displays like the Westinghouse, stutter is to be expected.

Until then, realize that a video SOURCE that does not match the DISPLAY refresh is the cause of visible stutter.

Gary

Understand that the Westinghouse and most other HDTV displays use a fixed 60Hz panel refresh to avoid visible flicker in reduced lighting conditions when flourescent room lighting is in use. If you drive any video input with a video source set for 70Hz/75Hz/85Hz/etc refresh then at some point the extra frames will get skipped. The cure for this is to set the source for 60Hz frame rate wherever possible.


Gary

That is not what is happening here(at least not always). On my set if it starts doing this, I can reboot the set and it completely goes away. This frame dropping occurs about once every two seconds.

xnappo

Well, I just played a few games comparing component to VGA - and while originally I cared about this, I no longer do as I don't see much difference if any.

Will let y'all know if I pull the trigger and how the Philips compares.

xnappo
Same here.
I would love to know if there is a technical reason to go with VGA as to me it 'looks' the same as the VGA (in fact better as i have a cheap-o Xbox VGA cable).

Same here.
I would love to know if there is a technical reason to go with VGA as to me it 'looks' the same as the VGA (in fact better as i have a cheap-o Xbox VGA cable).

Well, VGA is the only way to get 1080p out of the XBOX (though the new XBOXs have HDMI out). Component only gives you 1080i and the TV converts it to 1080p.

This means that 1080p can conceivably do 60FPS while 1080i is only 30FPS.

I can't tell the difference though. It might be a slightly bigger deal if I had the HD drive...

xnappo

Well, VGA is the only way to get 1080p out of the XBOX (though the new XBOXs have HDMI out). Component only gives you 1080i and the TV converts it to 1080p.

This means that 1080p can conceivably do 60FPS while 1080i is only 30FPS.

I can't tell the difference though. It might be a slightly bigger deal if I had the HD drive...

xnappo

For games. Xbox 360 does ouput 1080p through the component cable. The ouput is limited to 1080i for movies. My lvm-47w1 is able to accept the 1080p resolution through component input as well , but I do find it a bit soft compared to 1080p through VGA.

On another note, my original 360 just bit the bullet, so I went out and bought the new HDMI equipped Elite 360. Comparing the HDMI and VGA at 1080p, I'm hard pressed to see any difference. So, any of you contemplating getting the Elite due to the inclusion of HDMI, save your money since the difference, if any, is hardly there.

For games. Xbox 360 does ouput 1080p through the component cable. The ouput is limited to 1080i for movies. My lvm-47w1 is able to accept the 1080p resolution through component input as well , but I do find it a bit soft compared to 1080p through VGA.



Thanks for the clarification - I didn't know that.

xnappo

A number of Best Buy stores in the Toronto are having a problem with their 1080i loop "stuttering" or "jumping" on the new 42" Westy's. The salesmen and service techs say they have a defective shipment...same problem on different units and connections. I've seen the problem in about 1/3 of the stores and only on the 42"...not the 47". Any thoughts ?

A number of Best Buy stores in the Toronto are having a problem with their 1080i loop "stuttering" or "jumping" on the new 42" Westy's. The salesmen and service techs say they have a defective shipment...same problem on different units and connections. I've seen the problem in about 1/3 of the stores and only on the 42"...not the 47". Any thoughts ?

All I can tell you is many here have seen it on the 47". It occurs on my set but goes away on reboot.

xnappo

Hi guys, i'm considering this TV for HTPC use and PS3. Based, from what i have read here this tv have some minor problems such as gamma correction and ps3 handshake issue. Now the PS3 got the new firmware update (able to upscale dvd), is the PS3 handshake issue still exist and if yes how bad is it?

BTW, how many firmware updates have been released since this model came out to the market? Is there any word when they are going to release new firmware? Do Westinghouse release new firmware regularly or is a random thing?

Thanks in advance for any answer.

I'm starting to think I don't want to purchase this TV.

A buddy at BB almost had me sold on a rear projection unit but I dunno.. I still want the 47" Westy. I just don't want any problems. I'm on the third floor.. would suck to be unhappy and haul it away

Does it go away on reboot?

Thanks,
xnappo

Just updating, the jutter (frame skip) does go away with the 10 sec power button reboot. This seems purely firmware related, as well as most of the other issues.

Just updating, the jutter (frame skip) does go away with the 10 sec power button reboot. This seems purely firmware related, as well as most of the other issues.

Indeed. I was not getting a good vibe from Westinghouse customer service on that happening any time soon

I am now the owner of a Philips 47PFL7432D/37. Ended up being about the same price as the Westy - but no 4 year service plan.

Haven't watched enough to make any comparisons yet. The box sure was better designed :).

BB did not give me any hassle what-so-ever on the exchange.

xnappo

Well, i picked up my third replacement 47F430S in the last 8 days yesterday morning at BB. Still get an annoying hum from rear of set when backlight is lowered from 100. Input source makes no difference the darn thing hums even when no inputs are connected. :confused:

By the way every TX i tried had the purple feedback line across the bottom until deinterlace was turned off but when the dvd was playing there would be a line across the top until i turned the deinterlace back on. If i could get one that didn't hum i could live with the other problems and hope a firmware update would correct them later. Its a shame because for the price the picture is almost as good as tvs at twice to cost.

I would appreciate any suggestion on any other lcd tvs i should consider, probably would have to be a 42" tv to keep the cost relatively the same.

Girlfriend's 47" TX Westy, as some have you have read, had a boot-related issues that appear to be related to the "Energy Saver" mode. (Would hang on cold boot if set had been off for 1/2hour or more, etc. unless unplugged/replugged, etc. or did another reboot.) We were otherwise quite happy with the set.

Today we swapped it for another new-in-box Westy 47" TX, took it home and are happy.

We configured the set for 'Energy Saver' power mode, and disabled auto power on features, etc. After autoprogramming cable channels, left set on for an hour then off for an hour, on for an hour, etc. - with no funky cold boot issues.

This set has one "slightly hot" pixel that's not noticeable with my GF's nor my vision unless we're about 1 foot away from screen.

So far so good - gonna run this set 95% of the time (other than additional boot cycle tests) for the next couple of weeks while our next 30-day return period continues.

Hoping to keep this set as picture's great (obviously a little parameter tweaking is needed) and it has a very nice physical appearance (unlike the pimp-chromed Vizios and other brands with various metallic trim items).


Bill Wiese
San Jose CA

The volume does not adjust on a receiver. If you set the volume to 0 though on the westy, it will mute the audio to the receiver. Any setting above 1 on the tv produces the same volume.

I can get 5.1 through HDMI with my cable box and PS3, but the audio options on each device need to be set to HDMI and not auto.

What cable box do you have? This does not work for me with the Time Warner 8300HD DVR, even when the digital audio option is set to HDMI. Has anybody with an upconvert DVD player using HDMI gotten DD5.1 to pass through the TV to a audio receiver? If so, what brand/model do you have?

My new set flickers like crazy now with PS3. They better get firmware fixes out fast to fix all these issues, because my high opinion of the set will drop if other better tvs reach the same price in a few months.

Its a shame, my other set had almost no flickering. I see the jutter now too with channels like ESPN
My new TX also sometimes drops the signal for a sec with my cable box on hd channels. Not very often, but it has happened. I am waiting for Westinghouse to call me back about the Flickering issue over HDMI. My PS3 is the biggest problem. It flickers probably every 10min. The other night the signal totaly dropped out and I had to change inputs and go back to HDMI to get it back. Other than that, my set is perfect. It will be a real bummer if I need to return this one for another one. They better tell me it can be fixed via Firmware or I may bug out. :-)

Hi guys, i'm considering this TV for HTPC use and PS3. Based, from what i have read here this tv have some minor problems such as gamma correction and ps3 handshake issue. Now the PS3 got the new firmware update (able to upscale dvd), is the PS3 handshake issue still exist and if yes how bad is it?

BTW, how many firmware updates have been released since this model came out to the market? Is there any word when they are going to release new firmware? Do Westinghouse release new firmware regularly or is a random thing?

Thanks in advance for any answer.
I don't think any new firmware updates have come out for this set as of yet. As far as how Westinghouse updates there firmware I don't know if anyone could answer that. With the LVM serise, all firmware revisions that I know of were done as the monitors were coming off the assembly line. I had 3 lvm's, Returned 2 and each had a diferent firmware. The ps3 new firmware 1.82 still has the handshaking issue in my experiense. see above post.

Just updating, the jutter (frame skip) does go away with the 10 sec power button reboot. This seems purely firmware related, as well as most of the other issues.

I just got my 1st instance of jutter last night watching the Assassins Creed Trailer on my 360. I have 5 days before my 30 days are up. This isn't giving me a good feeling. Is this hardware related?

what is this gamma issue that ppl are talking about..or jittering..is that only on hdmi?

I just got mine yesterday but so far have only watch over the AIR HD which looks okay and using it for the pc through VGA..some of the HD channels have this fuzz at the top which another thread states is the CC data..as far as the VGA goes its decent but not crisp per say

PQ probably isn't the best of the best but for just over 1k for 42" and 1080p i can't really complain

what is this gamma issue that ppl are talking about..or jittering..is that only on hdmi?

I just got mine yesterday but so far have only watch over the AIR HD which looks okay and using it for the pc through VGA..some of the HD channels have this fuzz at the top which another thread states is the CC data..as far as the VGA goes its decent but not crisp per say

PQ probably isn't the best of the best but for just over 1k for 42" and 1080p i can't really complain

My 360 is connected via component. From reading the previous posts, I believe it looks like you're losing frames, I.E. skipping picture.

Thanks for the clarification - I didn't know that.

xnappo

he didn't know it either

on the xbox 360 component cables will do 1080p games and 480p dvd playback.

cant get to xbox.com from work (http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Component-HD-Cable/dp/B000B6MLPU)

My 360 is connected via component. From reading the previous posts, I believe it looks like you're losing frames, I.E. skipping picture.

Are you referring to what I said about VGA?

Are you referring to what I said about VGA?

I was actually referring to your question about the jitter and HDMI.

I don't want to get off topic too much. I like the TX at the moment, but I'm starting to look at the Sammy 4661. I think my 30 day window ending this week has me looking around. Does anyone on this board have any experience with that model and could offer an opinion on whether it's a better (brighter, better blacks) than the westy? Any help would be appreciated.

I don't want to get off topic too much. I like the TX at the moment, but I'm starting to look at the Sammy 4661. I think my 30 day window ending this week has me looking around. Does anyone on this board have any experience with that model and could offer an opinion on whether it's a better (brighter, better blacks) than the westy? Any help would be appreciated.

The Samsungs at Best Buy are very overpriced compared to ordering through Amazon. If you are stuck with having to exchange only at Best Buy, you would be sort of wasting hundreds and hundreds of dollars switching to it.

If I was to do everything over, the 4665 through amazon would have been my best choice. I'm also interested in later models coming out this year, so I dont think jumping the gun right now is the best choice.

If the 52" westinghouse is almost flawless and does a better job with blacks when it comes out, an exchange/upgrade to that might be my best choice. Then again, these bugs may all be fixed in firmware in a few months. I think its best to wait and see with a service plan, for me anyway.

BB compare of 1080p HD 46~47 products.

Compare Products (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/compare%20products.pdf)

Good Source for Reference of various Goodies (http://www.solidsignal.com/)

Well, i picked up my third replacement 47F430S in the last 8 days yesterday morning at BB. Still get an annoying hum from rear of set when backlight is lowered from 100. Input source makes no difference the darn thing hums even when no inputs are connected. :confused:

By the way every TX i tried had the purple feedback line across the bottom until deinterlace was turned off but when the dvd was playing there would be a line across the top until i turned the deinterlace back on. If i could get one that didn't hum i could live with the other problems and hope a firmware update would correct them later. Its a shame because for the price the picture is almost as good as tvs at twice to cost.

I would appreciate any suggestion on any other lcd tvs i should consider, probably would have to be a 42" tv to keep the cost relatively the same.

If, or did you hear this problem on the display set at the chain store? Could you test, see, hear this on the the in store display set.

I've PM'ed you a message. Hope all is going well.

I have a tivo too - what do you have yours set to - force everything to 1080i?

Sorry for the delay, been away a few days...yes, right now I'm forcing everything to 1080i. Haven't experimented a whole lot though, 720p channels may or may not look better if left at 720p. But I suspect it will be a small difference, and maybe not worth changing all the time. It would probably be most noticeable watching sports though.

I tried "1080i native" which as I understand will output 720p and 1080i at 1080i, and output 480i at 480p...the 480 content definitely looked better letting the Tivo upscale it to 1080i.

Ed

If the 52" westinghouse is almost flawless and does a better job with blacks when it comes out, an exchange/upgrade to that might be my best choice. Then again, these bugs may all be fixed in firmware in a few months. I think its best to wait and see with a service plan, for me anyway.

To my knowledge there is no 52" 1080P panel on LPL's production schedule, so that bodes very well for the 52" Westinghouse. It should be based on CMO's new 52" panel, but then again I said that with confidence 3 months ago about the 42-47" panels we have now, so take it as you will. :rolleyes:

I got the DirecTV HD DVR a couple weeks ago and everything was fine, the technician setup the HDMI and all is good, but yesterday when I turn on my Westinghouse TX-47 LCD, HDMI screen is black and no input is recognized, I have tried to reset the HD DVR a couple of times and tried different HDMI cables and plugged them into all 4 of the TX-47's HDMI port to no avail.

I'm currently using Component/audio at the moment but the picture doesn't seem to be the same as HDMI, especially the ESPN HD channels, it could be just my imagination but I think there may be a difference.

Has anyone seen this issue before with the DirecTV HD DVR and HDMI input issue on the Westinghouse TX-47"? Thanks in advance.

I got the DirecTV HD DVR a couple weeks ago and everything was fine, the technician setup the HDMI and all is good, but yesterday when I turn on my Westinghouse TX-47 LCD, HDMI screen is black and no input is recognized, I have tried to reset the HD DVR a couple of times and tried different HDMI cables and plugged them into all 4 of the TX-47's HDMI port to no avail.

I'm currently using Component/audio at the moment but the picture doesn't seem to be the same as HDMI, especially the ESPN HD channels, it could be just my imagination but I think there may be a difference.

Has anyone seen this issue before with the DirecTV HD DVR and HDMI input issue on the Westinghouse TX-47"? Thanks in advance.

Either hold the power button for 10 seconds while turning the tv off/on to reboot the TV, or unplug it. This should fix the issue.

.... and HDMI will be a nicer pic than component, always.

Forum ID (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11045632&&#post11045632) I'm currently using Component/audio at the moment but the picture doesn't seem to be the same as HDMI, especially the ESPN HD channels, it could be just my imagination but I think there may be a difference.

You bet! You will notice when you do get this back up that the Info. screen you see in your upper right hand corner will tell you your selection details.. IE HDMI-1 1080p for me is my PC. Most likely the DTV techies put your H2O on HDMI-2.

Could you please tell me what type of Surge Suppression you use on the TV? Specific if possible, I would hate for you to have to move everything. I'm just doing a little research on my own. Hope all goes well.
Regards

Well, i picked up my third replacement 47F430S in the last 8 days yesterday morning at BB. Still get an annoying hum from rear of set when backlight is lowered from 100. Input source makes no difference the darn thing hums even when no inputs are connected. :confused:



Maybe it's a ground loop?

he didn't know it either

on the xbox 360 component cables will do 1080p games and 480p dvd playback.

cant get to xbox.com from work (http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Component-HD-Cable/dp/B000B6MLPU)

In my original post, 1080i for movies was used in context of HD DVD playback. Most of us HD DVD player owners already know that you cannot upscale over component due to copyright restrictions and 360 is no exception.

In my original post, 1080i for movies was used in context of HD DVD playback. Most of us HD DVD player owners already know that you cannot upscale over component due to copyright restrictions and 360 is no exception.

Yes, only exception I know of there is original XBOX with XBMC :)

It looks really good - too bad it is so noisy.

xnappo

Yes, only exception I know of there is original XBOX with XBMC :)

It looks really good - too bad it is so noisy.

xnappo

You got me there ;) :D

After reading all the way through this thread, I'm still unsure about whether to buy the 42TX. I'm looking for a 42" LCD for the living room. I'll be feeding it a basic cable feed from the coax and using it to watch a lot of DVDs, using either a PS3 or a dedicated Blu-Ray player over HDMI. I have no interest in hooking up my computer to it, and don't have a PVR or other source currently, but I may also get an antenna for over the air HD broadcasts. There are five stations in the area.

The seating distance is fixed at about 7' from where the set will be placed. What I've read online seems to indicate that at that size and viewing distance, 1080p will be little apparent improvement over 720p on a 42" set, so I'm not sure whether the 1080p at that size and viewing distance is important.

I greatly prefer to watch everything in OAR, and don't care one bit about filling the screen to get rid of black bars. I'll be watching 4 x 3 material at 4 x 3 pillarboxed. I would like to be able to zoom on non anamorphic wide-screen DVDs like Fist of Legend, and not have to look at them windowboxed, and zoom in on SD shows that are widescreen, like ST: TNG, but otherwise, I really only need the two viewing formats.

Then I looked around at Best Buy for a bit, and saw a Samsung 40" 1080p playing Chicken Little on a Blu-Ray player and I was astonished at how good it looked, even only two or three feet away. It is, of course, a movie from an all digital source, so it's going to benefit greatly from the all digital delivery and display, but still . . . it was a truly glorious picture. I saw that and I wanted a 1080p and a next generation player.

More realistically, when I got home, and started doing research, I thought that I'd best use my head a little better. My flawed viewing environment and greater distance might wipe out the advantage of a full 1080p.

Still, given that the current price is only $200 more than the 720p 42" Vizio I had almost decided on, if the set weren't having the numerous problems being reported here, it would be a done deal for me. It certainly couldn't hurt to have a higher resolution.

I'm not a videophile, just someone who wants a nice TV for general TV viewing and watching DVDs.



Anyway, thanks for all the information. I'll be looking for a bit longer before I decide what to get.

Either hold the power button for 10 seconds while turning the tv off/on to reboot the TV, or unplug it. This should fix the issue.

.... and HDMI will be a nicer pic than component, always.


Hi Bhazard, thanks for the info, let me try this when I get home.

Regards,

Mickey

You bet! You will notice when you do get this back up that the Info. screen you see in your upper right hand corner will tell you your selection details.. IE HDMI-1 1080p for me is my PC. Most likely the DTV techies put your H2O on HDMI-2.

Could you please tell me what type of Surge Suppression you use on the TV? Specific if possible, I would hate for you to have to move everything. I'm just doing a little research on my own. Hope all goes well.
Regards

When the DirecTV tech set this up, it was HDMI-1, since I don't have any HDMI connections at this time (though I'm inclining to get a PS3 by next year). It was working for a couple weeks until now. Will check this out once I get home.

For surge suppression, do you mean the surge protector? I have an APC SurgeArrest Performance 3400 Joule 11-Outlet Surge Protector which I got my TX-47 and DirecTV plugged in it.

Regards

5. One thing I completed missed researching the TX-47 is Video Output, it seems that it doesn't have any, I really like the Monitor Output on my Sony 27", where I can record anything on the TV monitor digitally (from my VCR, DVR, LaserDisc or another input) using my Archos 480 Video recorder and then convert the video to IPOD. It's not going to be as easy as before (I still have a lot of video tapes I want to convert and I don't really want to buy more equipment). Any suggestions or workarounds?


7. I notice that the TX-47 emits a lot of heat and some smell too, since I only got it for less than a week, I don't know if it's just my set or if this is normal?

)

Some other ideas. If the heat gets to bad grab a Honeywell Pro Series Floor Fan. I did a test on my set with the temp. lowering 5 degrees in 12 minutes from 92 Degrees (top of set) to 88 Degrees, just from turning the fan on it.

I own a KWORLD VS-TV1440RNB VGA Interface Video Device - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815260001
Perhaps this could act as an intermediated device for your Sony.. Just maybe.

When the DirecTV tech set this up, it was HDMI-1, since I don't have any HDMI connections at this time (though I'm inclining to get a PS3 by next year). It was working for a couple weeks until now. Will check this out once I get home.

For surge suppression, do you mean the surge protector? I have an APC SurgeArrest Performance 3400 Joule 11-Outlet Surge Protector which I got my TX-47 and DirecTV plugged in it.

Regards

OK,
Since the DTV guys had you on HDMI-1 I assume your sound was RCA L/R. Soooo, I do not know yet about the H20, shucks, im poor. but I was assuming... (help me out here guys) that the H20's HDMI would port sound via the HDMI connection. ehhh?!

You are correct, I was refering to your Surge protector.
Thanks

After reading all the way through this thread, I'm still unsure about whether to buy the 42TX. I'm looking for a 42" LCD for the living room. I'll be feeding it a basic cable feed from the coax and using it to watch a lot of DVDs, using either a PS3 or a dedicated Blu-Ray player over HDMI. I have no interest in hooking up my computer to it, and don't have a PVR or other source currently, but I may also get an antenna for over the air HD broadcasts. There are five stations in the area.
Rest of the Users post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11045858&&#post11045858)


Hello and welcome.
You are indeed asking good questions and have great discipline. I do no know if you noticed that none of the TX series in your chain store were showing the can material that most of the Plasma and LCD TV were displaying. I think a picture would be worth a thousand words. So I will uplink a picture of the Quick Install Matrix (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/QIM.pdf) . I do not know what your cable box is capable of porting, nor what other components you have that will require hookup, but the TX will not accept RG6\Coax from your Cable Box or Sat Receiver, only Component, Composite, SVid, or HDMI.

Looking through the menu, I see no way of Zooming, only Display>Screen Size >Standard/Fill/Overscan. I personally have gotten use to seeing 4x3 content for the past several years upscaled, meaning I like women with big tushes now. :p

Follow link to the forum for Local HDTV info and reception.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=45
Many good ideas for using Google Earth and FCC Kzm file to help visualize your RF UHF/VHF Broadcast with Tower locations.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=821480

BB has lowered their price since I purchased with a 10% tampon :D , so I think that the store price is the best you will be able to do unless someone has other info, seen nothing online.

Forum ID and Product Comparison link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11042720&&#post11042720)

I hope this helps you out.
Regards

I just bought the 42" Westy. Loving it so far.

I'm debating this. Last time I read through every post of a thread here was when I was debating getting the Toshiba 30HF85 CRT HDTV. I fooled myself into ignoring the negative posts and warnings and got it anyway. I haven't been thrilled with it to say the least, but some two years later I'm looking to replace it (or move it elsewhere) and I'm considering the TX-42F430S. It looks so sweet and it'd be awesome to have a nice, big TV going, but I'm kind of nervous about the whole thing. Plus, the price is definitely right. Someone reassure me!

Thank you for the feedback.

Just to be clear, the TX won't accept the coax cable from my cable box through the antenna input? Hmmm. It says in the online manual on the web site that the antenna input can accept either an antenna or a cable tv input.

I'll be hooking up two inputs. One will be either a dedicated Blu-Ray player or a PS3, going through HDMI. I'm not quite decided yet which I'll be using. If I can find the Panasonic Blu-Ray player with the 5 Blu-Ray discs in the box (five movies I'd like to have anyway, so it's a very good deal), I'll be going with that and hooking up my PS2 to one of the other inputs. If not, I'll be getting PS3, giving away the PS2, and hooking it up through the HDMI. This is why the flickering problem is potentially problematic for me.

The other input will be my cable, which I had intended to go through the antenna input.

Thank you for the feedback.

Just to be clear, the TX won't accept the coax cable from my cable box through the antenna input? Hmmm. It says in the online manual on the web site that the antenna input can accept either an antenna or a cable tv input.

The other input will be my cable, which I had intended to go through the antenna input.

This means you can hook up your cable directly from the wall to the TV and get unencrypted channels. If you want to use a cable box, you want to use an HDMI cable.

xnappo

This means you can hook up your cable directly from the wall to the TV and get unencrypted channels. If you want to use a cable box, you want to use an HDMI cable.

xnappo

That was the plan, using the cable for unencrypted channels. I have only basic cable anyway at this point.

I prefer renting DVDs to premium channels because I get more choice and more flexibility, so at this point that will be my main source of movies and so forth.

Well I just wanted to say I just bought a TX 47 from Dell in Canada. I'm replacing a panasonic Enhanced Def. Plasma, so this is a big step up in resolution for me , I hope I'm not going to miss to much of the contrast the panny had though.

I'm excited to get me knew unit, still about a week away for delivery, anything I should be prepared for 'out of the box' ?

Sorry if this was already posted, but I couldn't find it:

What version of HDMI do these TVs have?

Thanks.

Sorry if this was already posted, but I couldn't find it:

What version of HDMI do these TVs have?

Thanks.

View Post HDMI version (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11012579&&#post11012579)

Well I just wanted to say I just bought a TX 47 from Dell in Canada. I'm replacing a panasonic Enhanced Def. Plasma, so this is a big step up in resolution for me , I hope I'm not going to miss to much of the contrast the panny had though.

I'm excited to get me knew unit, still about a week away for delivery, anything I should be prepared for 'out of the box' ?

Hello,
Will you still have your existing display handy, and what type of components are you currently porting to it. What sources do you plan to put to task with the TX to take advantage of the 1080p?

Regards

UGGGGGG!!

I got the Blank screen of death this morning on my TX-42, or should I say my teenage cousin did! He turned the TV on and got the LED to turn orange for warm-up and then the Westinghouse symbol came on as usual, then nothing. The only thing that was different than what has been done previously was that he started the PS3 before he turned the TV on. I am assuming that the TV had an issue with that but I don't know. I'll have to mess around with it when I get home, if no dice BB will be hearing from me :mad:

I was really happy with the TV too, just starting to revel in the clarity, and lack of issues. I have 3 dead pixels and couldn't see any of them from my viewing distance, and no mura or flashlights from my optimum viewing angle. Hopefully all will be ok when I go home for lunch to beat up my cousin for mess'n with my TV! ;)

UGGGGGG!!

I got the Blank screen of death this morning on my TX-42, or should I say my teenage cousin did!

You should be able to get it to come back to life by unplugging it and plugging it back in.

That said - this combined with customer services basically telling me it was a problem only with my set (which obviously it isn't) is why I exchanged mine for a Philips. For the price - the set should probably always turn on when you press the power button :P

xnappo

Yeah I hope that will work, I had him unplug it and when I get home I'll take out all the cables and plug her back in, hopefully that will work. But like you said it should always turn on in any case.

Maybe Westinghouse cut some corners to get into this price bracket? If it is the auto sensing input, why even add it, yeah it's convienent, but I can push a button to switch my input myself, and not cause other issues!

Oh well, I guess if this TV is dead and I may try a replacement once, but I am now a HD wide screen convert, no going back to the 4:3 now. I guess I'll have to dish out some extra $ for a different brand if this one dies!

Here are the settings that I am really likeing. TX-47
Very colorful, though reds can push a little too much, but *only* when watching select kids shows (not the Wiggles surprisingly, but Backyardigans at times).

Brightness - 67
Contrast - 65
Saturation - 55
Hue - 50
Sharpness - 50
Backlight - 30
Color Temp - Warm
Dynamic Contrast - On

Power Settings:
DPMS Mode - 1min
Sleep - Off
Power On Plug - Off
Power Mode - E.Saver
Power LED - On

The only issue I have had (and not for a good few weeks until yestrerday) is when powering on/off/on/off quickly the image get corrupt and i have to unplug the set for a full reset.

Maybe Westinghouse cut some corners to get into this price bracket?


I think it is more likely that the product was behind schedule from an engineering point of view and still has software bugs. If Westinghouse had acknowledged this and said they were working on a firmware update - I would probably still have the set. Instead they acted like I was smoking crack...

xnappo

In any case I'll attempt to get the TV to work and if not I"ll talk to BB/Westinghouse and post my progress here.

I have had my TX 47 for four weeks now. Bought it on line from Best Buy. Was delivered and set up by the guys and for the past month I've nothing but a GREAT experience.The picture is superb. the performance is flawless. I don't know what went wrong with the other sets reported here but I'm really enjoying my set.

Here are the settings that I am really likeing. TX-47
Very colorful, though reds can push a little too much, but *only* when watching select kids shows (not the Wiggles surprisingly, but Backyardigans at times).

Brightness - 67
Contrast - 65
Saturation - 55
Hue - 50
Sharpness - 50
Backlight - 30
Color Temp - Warm
Dynamic Contrast - On

Power Settings:
DPMS Mode - 1min
Sleep - Off
Power On Plug - Off
Power Mode - E.Saver
Power LED - On

The only issue I have had (and not for a good few weeks until yestrerday) is when powering on/off/on/off quickly the image get corrupt and i have to unplug the set for a full reset.

I think those are real close to what I've been using, usually keep backlight lower and DC off, though. Think I may have contrast at 69 and Sat. at 50 or something. A tad bright, but I think it gives me decent color accuracy from the Tivo (on HDMI 2) and HTPC (HDMI 1), and makes blacks and shadow details tolerable, meaning I see details instead of giant blobs of blackness. The black floor is somewhat compromised, but I don't think it's terrible. I watch a lot of space opera and space documentaries, so I'll be putting that theory to the test when I actually have time to watch TV again, but for now I'm happy with these settings.

The corrupt image thing. Yeah. Was having "momentary" power outages the other night, I have the TV on a decent surge suppressor but I refuse to have a UPS in the house. Anyway, I was getting big time display corruption. I managed to get it to come back up right without unplugging though, just kept power cycling with the on/off button. In E. Saver mode, so it did a full boot. Took several times, but it finally came up clean. Shouldn't happen, really, very annoying. Oddly enough, after the first time, I switched it from E. Saver to Normal mode, thinking that if it didn't have to go through full boot, it wouldn't come up funky - no dice. Power flicked again, turned the set back on, and display was corrupt again. Conversely, I don't think you'll get it to come up right *without* a full boot, so I put it back to E. Saver mode.

Ed

I suppose I'm also asking the following -- what makes some like that Sharp Aquos 42" LCD (LC-42D62U) "worth" roughly $500 more than this Westinghouse of the same size, or say a Bravia even more. Comparing specs, it seems the Sharp only has the 1200:1 contrast ratio on the Westinghouse, with the W having the edge in a few other categories. It seems most everyone would say to go with the better name, but why in a case like this? Are there reliability ratings out there I can look for?

Sorry to ask such a rudimentary question, but I like the Westinghouse and though I do have the money for something more expensive, I'm not sure how to justify it.

Just to offer a different experience I've been using my set without E.Saver or a reboot since the 2nd day I had it. No image corruption or other issues to speak of in that regard, though I plan on forcing a full boot from it once every few months for good measure. After powering it up with E.Saver the 2nd time and getting the alarming pops and bangs from the speakers (in addition to the set not booting of course) I decided I'd had enough of that particular experience. It's not like a computer, the firmware is loading a limited and specific set of operation instructions so there shouldn't be a need to "reboot" it like a PC. I imagine HDCP corruption is to blame, or a repeatable firmware bug is the culprit.

I suppose I'm also asking the following -- what makes some like that Sharp Aquos 42" LCD (LC-42D62U) "worth" roughly $500 more than this Westinghouse of the same size, or say a Bravia even more. Comparing specs, it seems the Sharp only has the 1200:1 contrast ratio on the Westinghouse, with the W having the edge in a few other categories. It seems most everyone would say to go with the better name, but why in a case like this? Are there reliability ratings out there I can look for?

Sorry to ask such a rudimentary question, but I like the Westinghouse and though I do have the money for something more expensive, I'm not sure how to justify it.

Sharp is having some serious quality control issues with their sets this year, which is why I avoided them. There are issues of banding and other anomalies in the screens that many many many people are facing with them.

The Westinghouse comes pretty close to the sharp in picture quality, aside from the black levels. So far I havent seen any widespread screen issues (banding/mura). The Westinghouse has its own quirks though, but I think they can be fixed by firmware in the future. To me the Westinghouse is a better buy right now.

Sharp is having some serious quality control issues with their sets this year, which is why I avoided them. There are issues of banding and other anomalies in the screens that many many many people are facing with them.

The Westinghouse comes pretty close to the sharp in picture quality, aside from the black levels. So far I havent seen any widespread screen issues (banding/mura). The Westinghouse has its own quirks though, but I think they can be fixed by firmware in the future. To me the Westinghouse is a better buy right now.

Is any TV manufacturer NOT having quality control issues? Are say, Sony and Samsung LCD monitors actually worth the inflated cost (relatively speaking)?

Is any TV manufacturer NOT having quality control issues? Are say, Sony and Samsung LCD monitors actually worth the inflated cost (relatively speaking)?

I think Samsung is the best right now, but even on them there are major HDMI dropout problems that require older mainboards from a few months ago to be replaced by a technician to fix. Sony is always overpriced and has some clouding issues.

Just keep on researching until you find something that fits your needs.

Well I called Westinghouse and they said it's a power issue, the lady taking the call wanted to verify with the tech guys and got back to me within a minute with the prognosis. They may very well know it's an issue, hopefully. Now if only it's a simple repair and I won't have to roll the dice with a new TV and, cross my fingers, no major picture issues with the new one. Oh well Best Buy will be at my house tomorrow to fix it or replace it (most likely replacing it).

BTW, there is no reason for me to leave my TV "on" at 40W to ensure that it will startup when I decide to turn it on. The 1W e-saver is the only way to go, and if it doesn't work, or causes these issues with startup, then that is a manufacturing flaw. :mad:

My relatives TX-47F430S playing part of a DVD, Awful colors, I'm thinking It needs the color values reset to stock.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n107/JokerCPoC/My%2047th%20Birthday%20Party/47th-Party006.jpg

Well I called Westinghouse and they said it's a power issue, the lady taking the call wanted to verify with the tech guys and got back to me within a minute with the prognosis. They may very well know it's an issue, hopefully. Now if only it's a simple repair and I won't have to roll the dice with a new TV and, cross my fingers, no major picture issues with the new one. Oh well Best Buy will be at my house tomorrow to fix it or replace it (most likely replacing it).

BTW, there is no reason for me to leave my TV "on" at 40W to ensure that it will startup when I decide to turn it on. The 1W e-saver is the only way to go, and if it doesn't work, or causes these issues with startup, then that is a manufacturing flaw. :mad:

You, and everybody else that has pointed out this is correct Glad to hear you were able to obtain a prompt reply and will see some satisfaction from the good money you spent on the TV.

I going to run with these setting and see what occurs.

DPMS=1 min
Sleep=Off
Power on Plug=Off
Power Mode=E.Saver
Power LED-On

I have taken my TV off the older Monster Cable AV 700
and put it on a Monster Cable FlatScreen Power Protector 200 daisy'ed into a UPS (which I just unplugged to see if it would hold). It held.

Remember... I've see some garbabe too (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf)

Thanks for following up and good luck tomorrow!

My relatives TX-47F430S playing part of a DVD, Awful colors, I'm thinking It needs the color values reset to stock.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n107/JokerCPoC/My%2047th%20Birthday%20Party/47th-Party006.jpg

Wow wee. that is pretty pink. Are you still there and can you verify, take a before and after shot of the setting?


Concerning your sig..
This TV is nothing but I Gigantic Ionic Breeze.
Get a leaf blower :)

Man I have a feeling the kids got a hold of the remote and did some playing around with the settings:D . That just can't be the "out of the box" picture :eek: , mine was very much acceptable minus the 100 for the backlight.

Wow wee. that is pretty pink. Are you still there and can you verify, take a before and after shot of the setting?


Concerning your sig..
This TV is nothing but I Gigantic Ionic Breeze.
Get a leaf blower :)

No, That was taken on July 4th, I was attending a birthday party about 45 miles one way from where I live. The TV in the sig is a WD-57731 and the 150w Lamp is burned out, Guess what I found on the grill? Dust, I do need an ionic breeze air purifier to cut down on the dust here as My sig says I live in a Desert and the Dust blows around here quite a bit when the wind gets more than mildly breezy or really hot If there's still air. :D

Edit: Next time I go down there I'll take a few pics(on Thanksgiving), As that is pretty bad, Even My 27" Proscan is better than that. :eek:

Here's the TV showing a B&W movie, Looks good, The gold area on the screen is possibly just the flash from My Camera. :D

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n107/JokerCPoC/My%2047th%20Birthday%20Party/47th-Party001.jpg

Here's the TV showing a B&W movie, Looks good, The gold area on the screen is possibly just the flash from My Camera. :D



Doesn't look like they will have much room for dust in there :cool: Can I live there too!

Remember to do your homework (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionic_breeze)

More than on way to skin a dust bunny (http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/sharper-image-lawsuit-ends-505-air-purifier-ionic-air-cleaner/index.htm)

Re: Forum Item (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11054104&&#post11054104)


Edit: Next time I go down there I'll take a few pics(on Thanksgiving), As that is pretty bad, Even My 27" Proscan is better than that. :eek:

In the meantime you can walk them through the menu setup, or point them to this forum.
Westinghouse User Manual (English Section) pg.24 "Video Reset."
"Ditto....................................................... ....." pg.35 "Factory Reset"

Good Luck with the environment. Looks to me like they run a tight ship!
PS. Tell them I Love that ceiling effect trough the mirror.

Re: Forum Post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11051823&&#post11051823)

The corrupt image thing.

Ed

Did your TV look anything like this?
Matrix Affect (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf)

Thanks!

Re: Forum Item (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11054104&&#post11054104)


In the meantime you can walk them through the menu setup, or point them to this forum.
Westinghouse User Manual (English Section) pg.24 "Video Reset."
"Ditto....................................................... ....." pg.35 "Factory Reset"

Good Luck with the environment. Looks to me like they run a tight ship!
PS. Tell them I Love that ceiling effect trough the mirror.

They just redid their entire houses interior, Mother & Daughter(Sister in law & Niece to Me) live there and their not too technical, They said they were going to call somebody as I recall, If they haven't by thanksgiving I'll fix It Myself(It can't be that hard, I am a certified PC Geek afterall). Here's a few more shots, I'd have taken more, But I didn't. The outside of the house looks older than the inside as they didn't spend any money there except for minor repairs, They are going to get a painter for that.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n107/JokerCPoC/My%2047th%20Birthday%20Party/47th-Party003.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n107/JokerCPoC/My%2047th%20Birthday%20Party/47th-Party004.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n107/JokerCPoC/My%2047th%20Birthday%20Party/47th-Party002.jpg

I just got a new TX-42F430S this weekend. I am way behind on this technology as it replaced a 27" 15 year old Sony, so I can't really compare the new set to anything else that has been in my home (ie, I'm no expert videophile type).

For the most part I like this TV, except for one thing - black levels. I'm not sure what my expectations should be given this is my first LCD TV and there is no way to check this stuff out in the store the way they have them setup under the lights and all. Shadow detail just plain sucks unless I crank up brightness and/or the backlight, and then I feel like it's gonna give my eyes plasma burns. When I have it adjusted correctly, well lit scenes look absolutely fantastic on DVD, but then that makes the dark scenes just way too dark.

Example: In Pitch Black, the scene where they first come out of stasis, it's way too dark. But, there is an alarm light flashing on and off in the background. During the flash the scene looks perfect, incredible even, and shadow detail is great. But between flashes the scene is just a lot darker than it should be. Making it brighter/lighter would make the light scenes too bright/light.

Is this a normal LCD thing or is it worse with this model?

I'm posting here because I'm wondering if I should exchange it for something else like maybe one of the Samsungs (LNT4061F?) or something. I could always look at plasmas but I'm worried about burn-in and also the amount of heat some of them give off. Or, should I hang on in hopes that a service menu adjustment will come out to improve the black level problem?

Oh yeah, man I really hate piano black. LOL! Is it just me or does it look like the kind of cheap plastic crap that dominated '70s American manufacturing. I mean, is it someone's idea of a joke? There's nothing sophisticated about it, and it's glaring and distracting. I don't get it. Sorry, didn't mean to stray.

It's......... traditionally a pretty normal thing for LCDs, though it never had to be. Poor black levels are just beginning to improve, but there was never a need to lose shadow detail. I don't really know why LCD has historically had difficulty with gamma output curves being correct. It's no worse here than I've seen on some other sets, but the cost places higher expectations and they aren't met.

Thanks for answering my previous question about what HDMI version this TV has. I have another (hopefully) quick question regarding using this TV also as a computer monitor, though. It doesn't have any DVI ports, so if I use a DVI to HDMI adapter, will it work flawlessly at native resolution?

And...How good is this TV as a general computer monitor, especially compared to something like the Sharp LC-32GP1U?

Thanks!

Well, I was at Best Buy this afternoon again while my mom was at the doctor's office, and I looked at the TX-42 again, comparing it to the nearby Samsungs, Philips, and Sonys running the same feed. There were three differences that I could see. The first was that the colors seemed off on the Westinghouse, far too reddish/orangish compared to the others. I'm assuming this is just a matter of calibrating the set properly to fix. The TX-42 didn't seem to have black levels as deep as the others. On the other hand, the TX didn't seem to be collecting or reflecting any ambient light, while the Samsungs were showing off some serious reflections. Not quite as bad as a curved CRT, but still noticeable, enough to be a negative for me.

At the current price, this is too good not to give it a chance, before going to the Vizio that I'd been considering, or possibly the Philips 37" if I see stuttering problems.

Now it's just a matter of waiting for payday, and deciding which Blu-Ray player to get. The Panasonic with the 5 movies seems attractive, as does a PS3, though I'm wary of the stuttering problem.

I'm quite eager at this point.

Thanks for answering my previous question about what HDMI version this TV has. I have another (hopefully) quick question regarding using this TV also as a computer monitor, though. It doesn't have any DVI ports, so if I use a DVI to HDMI adapter, will it work flawlessly at native resolution?

And...How good is this TV as a general computer monitor, especially compared to something like the Sharp LC-32GP1U?

Thanks!

Yes it will. Many people have reported issues with ATI cards (but this is for all HDTVs) but with some tweaking you should be able to get it to work with either an ATI or nVidia card (or any with a DVI and support for 1920x1080 for that matter). If all else fails you can always use VGA (That's what I'm using and I love it).

Thanks for answering my previous question about what HDMI version this TV has. I have another (hopefully) quick question regarding using this TV also as a computer monitor, though. It doesn't have any DVI ports, so if I use a DVI to HDMI adapter, will it work flawlessly at native resolution?

And...How good is this TV as a general computer monitor, especially compared to something like the Sharp LC-32GP1U?

Thanks!

I bought mine on June 12, and disappeared form the forum till July 12. I spent my time wisely playing NFSC endlessly till I just had to get busted by the cop and lose my last car. Then I installed an OTA antenna just to see if I could get more than one HD channel. Then I had to really push the envelope and get some sleep.

I waited 7 years or so, and have been purchasing little on sale LCD screens here and there, and can tell you there aint a tube in this house only 5 LCD, and one projection ( please bust me, it this counts as a tube :eek: )

Now late last night or early this morning, I cant remember, I slide my laptop and ported it over to the VGA connection and I can tell you I like- NO LOVE, the DVI to HDMI-1 connection and yes you can push it all the way up.


Regards

Now it's just a matter of waiting for payday, and deciding which Blu-Ray player to get. The Panasonic with the 5 movies seems attractive, as does a PS3, though I'm wary of the stuttering problem.

I'm quite eager at this point.

Circuit City Playstation Deal w/5 Blu-Ray Movies (http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/productDetail.do?oid=166283&linkid=j13459594k35151&affiliateid=k35151&mid=)

The 5 Disk PDF form (http://www.bluraysavings.com/Summer_Bundle-Online_Order_Form.pdf)

Hi all,

I'm getting alot of motion artifacts when watching many of the HD channels. This happens when the camera is panning left and right. Sometimes it's not even on past moving shows, American Chopper for instance. Is anyone else having this issue? I'm connected via HDMI to my Comcast motorola HD-DVR. I've tried flipping the output to 1080i and 720p, no change. I've got 3 days to return the TV but I'm not sure if it's the set or not.

Thanks

Hi all,

I'm getting alot of motion artifacts when watching many of the HD channels. This happens when the camera is panning left and right. Sometimes it's not even on past moving shows, American Chopper for instance. Is anyone else having this issue? I'm connected via HDMI to my Comcast motorola HD-DVR. I've tried flipping the output to 1080i and 720p, no change. I've got 3 days to return the TV but I'm not sure if it's the set or not.

Thanks

Its not your tv. It's the compression in the video signal being sent to you. This will show up in any tv you buy.

Watch a Blu-ray or HD-DVD disk on it, you'll see a much better picture than what cable HD can give you.

Yes it will. Many people have reported issues with ATI cards (but this is for all HDTVs) but with some tweaking you should be able to get it to work with either an ATI or nVidia card (or any with a DVI and support for 1920x1080 for that matter). If all else fails you can always use VGA (That's what I'm using and I love it).

what card are using? with my laptop I initially extended the desktop onto the 42tx, but now have switched to the 42tx as the primary and I thought it looked "sharper" but when I go to sites like dpreview*com, where the wavering is more noticeable, it looks the same..im trying to figure out if this is vga caused...or from my x1600 mobility...or am I just sitting too close (2.5-3ft away for PC use)

Its not your tv. It's the compression in the video signal being sent to you. This will show up in any tv you buy.

Watch a Blu-ray or HD-DVD disk on it, you'll see a much better picture than what cable HD can give you.

I'm figuring it's the broadcast and it's on almost all the HD channels coming in from Comcast. I don't have any 1080p content to try other than my 360 for gaming. I'll probably end up keeping the TV, BB's got a new price on this today. They seem to be playing price games with it. The only other TV I would think about buying is the Sammy 4661, but I don't think it's worth the extra $600.

Thanks

For any of you still able to pricematch a recent online purchase from Bestbuy.com
[60 days for HDTVs purchased from 6/3/07 through 9/29/07)]

They just dropped the price.

TX-47F430S is now on sale for $1529.99

and though I have no idea what the TX-42 was before, its at $1169.99.


Hope this is of help to some of you.

-MirclMax

For everyone hooking up their computer to to the tv via dvi-hdmi (hdmi 1)how are you getting sound? Is there a setting that needs to be done? I am getting no sound via the L R connectors that are on that hdmi 1 line. I know my internal sound card works cause it all works fine on the vga line. THe audio cables i am using use to work fine on my old westy that used dvi. Any suggestions? Thanks

Did your TV look anything like this?
Matrix Affect (http://bellsouthpwp2.net/c/a/cald2624/matrix.pdf)

Thanks!

Not so much the "Matrix" pictures, but like the others - colors "reversed", or light areas blindingly white, and kind of sparkly - looked like maybe watching an infrared picture of a scene. And sometimes, a black line straight down the center of the screen.

Ed

For everyone hooking up their computer to to the tv via dvi-hdmi (hdmi 1)how are you getting sound? Is there a setting that needs to be done? I am getting no sound via the L R connectors that are on that hdmi 1 line. I know my internal sound card works cause it all works fine on the vga line. THe audio cables i am using use to work fine on my old westy that used dvi. Any suggestions? Thanks

You have to set the option in the menu to change HDMI 1 sound from "Digital" to "Analog"

For any of you still able to pricematch a recent online purchase from Bestbuy.com
[60 days for HDTVs purchased from 6/3/07 through 9/29/07)]

They just dropped the price.

TX-47F430S is now on sale for $1529.99


It would have helped, if I hadn't already noticed! Thanks! I did one price drop on Sunday and another Today. Almost $200 so far.

I currently have my 47" hooked up without a stereo system. I like how it automatically switches between video inputs ( usually ). I need to get a receiver..... will this TV take the HDMI sound and pump it out the SPDIF port? What about analog sound from the component input?

I want an audio solution that has auto switching capabilities ( on it's own or via the TV ) to keep remote control life simple....

For everyone hooking up their computer to to the tv via dvi-hdmi (hdmi 1)how are you getting sound? Is there a setting that needs to be done? I am getting no sound via the L R connectors that are on that hdmi 1 line. I know my internal sound card works cause it all works fine on the vga line. THe audio cables i am using use to work fine on my old westy that used dvi. Any suggestions? Thanks


Westy User Manual English pg.33

I currently have my 47" hooked up without a stereo system. I like how it automatically switches between video inputs ( usually ). I need to get a receiver..... will this TV take the HDMI sound and pump it out the SPDIF port? What about analog sound from the component input?

I want an audio solution that has auto switching capabilities ( on it's own or via the TV ) to keep remote control life simple....

My Westinghouse Setup only ports two sound sources to the AMP. HDMI-1>PC and TV OTA HD. I can not speak for HDMI sources via other components, but I can say that the OTA (Over the Air) HD will port over the SPDIF into the AMP, The AMP detects the Optical uplink as PCM 48.

I use a Radio Shack Remote 15-2146 and made 3 macros. (are user conf. labels for each device)
1. Takes the Amp to Vid-1 (Satellite), changes the TV over to Video 1 (Satellite)
2. Takes the Amp to MD-Tape (Antec), changes the TV over to HDMI-1 (PC)
3. Takes the Amp to Vid-2 (Westy), changes the TV over to TV (TV)

I hope this is helpful!

Well I called Westinghouse and they said it's a power issue, the lady taking the call wanted to verify with the tech guys and got back to me within a minute with the prognosis. They may very well know it's an issue, hopefully. Now if only it's a simple repair and I won't have to roll the dice with a new TV and, cross my fingers, no major picture issues with the new one. Oh well Best Buy will be at my house tomorrow to fix it or replace it (most likely replacing it).

BTW, there is no reason for me to leave my TV "on" at 40W to ensure that it will startup when I decide to turn it on. The 1W e-saver is the only way to go, and if it doesn't work, or causes these issues with startup, then that is a manufacturing flaw. :mad:

Hey we are all counting on you to watch them BB tech. Especially if the stick a USB stick into your TV and flash it. Or if you get it replaced, could you go right to the Settings>System Info>SV 5110_1.1.0 Build April 13, 2007

Anything more current than that will be nice to hear.

This Power Image Corruption Thinggy has gotta go.

x84HurstOlds (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11051823&&#post11051823)

Lutch (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11053644&&#post11053644)

Woobieizer (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11054172&&#post11054172)

Regards

Not so much the "Matrix" pictures, but like the others - colors "reversed", or light areas blindingly white, and kind of sparkly - looked like maybe watching an infrared picture of a scene. And sometimes, a black line straight down the center of the screen.

Ed

Thanks for the descriptive response. This is very weird. I hope Lutch has some good news to report on the in home visit from BB.

Regards

Thanks bhazard. You really went the extra mile Woobieizer thank you. I dont know why that solution never dawned upon me especially to open the manual for a clue. D'oh!! Works like a charm now. I see now how annoying it is that you cant have separate settings for each HDMI.

So, Westinghouse needs to fix.... (by user installable firmware hopefully)

The energy saver boot up problem (lockups)
Flickering HDCP/HDMI
Incorrect gamma curve
OTA 5.1
Usable PIP option
Autosource not always working (My cable box autosourced on my first TV, wont on my 2nd)
Frame skipping jutter (fixed by 10 sec tv power reboot)

If they do fix this, aside from overall black levels then this tv beats others in its price range hands down right now. There doesn't seem to be any overall banding or mura issues. The sparkles from last year's LVM model on HDMI are not present in the TX line.

I'm curious to see if TVs made after april 13th will have these problems, or if the TX52 will have these issues as well.

Any other issues missing?

For any of you still able to pricematch a recent online purchase from Bestbuy.com
[60 days for HDTVs purchased from 6/3/07 through 9/29/07)]
They just dropped the price.
TX-47F430S is now on sale for $1529.99
and though I have no idea what the TX-42 was before, its at $1169.99.
Hope this is of help to some of you.

-MirclMax

It would have helped, if I hadn't already noticed! Thanks! I did one price drop on Sunday and another Today. Almost $200 so far.

Greetings, and Congrads on your Price match.
I was hoping you would post the manner in which you were able to get the price guarantee honored.
I bought mine on June 11, with a 10% coupon, Original price of $Too.Much w/ $Just.Abit off, brought it down to $Not.Enough So then on the 4th of July the set went on sale. I was in BB to claim my Customer Confidence Price Guarantee and was refused.
Now the price is 1699.99 on sale for 1529.99. Can you post your procedure into the forum so others can duplicate you good fortune?
Thanks

I didn't have a 10% coupon and I bought online with store delivery. I simply called 1-888-BESTBUY. The first person asked what I neede to do and then transferred me to the right department. They asked for my online order #, looked the price up online and took care of it.
It was very painless. Various email confirmations followed and then I saw the ACH credit in my bank account.

Good Luck!
He Was Right! Now that's what Forums are For! ;)

...The only other TV I would think about buying is the Sammy 4661, but I don't think it's worth the extra $600.

I was in the exact same boat, was trying to decide between Sammy 4661 and the Westy-TX47, but the Westy was marked down $300 for a few hours, so I grabbed it.

Total difference in cost was about +$1000 for the Sammy, but I didn't think it was $1000 better. I took the extra money and bought other stuff.

Very happy with the Westy!
p.

Well BB visited this afternoon, and took all of 5 minutes to see the problem, call Westinghouse, and say the board is shot. So it is back in it's box right now, sitting there waiting for me to take it back and get a store credit. I won't have the new unit unit Friday afternoon since the coupon isn't good until then.

I'll probably get another TX42, but I want the store credit so I can get the lower price and the 12% off, which I wasn't able to do previously since they were matching the online price and couldn't combine the two. But now the price in the store is $30 cheaper than I paid and if I take the 12% off I basically pay for the 4 year warranty.

So when it is all said and done I'll be getting this TV for $160 less than I previously paid, I guess a blessing in disguise :D .

Now if the new one dies due to the same problem, I'm switching manufacturers.

Well I called Westinghouse and they said it's a power issue, the lady taking the call wanted to verify with the tech guys and got back to me within a minute with the prognosis. They may very well know it's an issue, hopefully. Now if only it's a simple repair and I won't have to roll the dice with a new TV and, cross my fingers, no major picture issues with the new one. Oh well Best Buy will be at my house tomorrow to fix it or replace it (most likely replacing it).

BTW, there is no reason for me to leave my TV "on" at 40W to ensure that it will startup when I decide to turn it on. The 1W e-saver is the only way to go, and if it doesn't work, or causes these issues with startup, then that is a manufacturing flaw. :mad:

On the onset of your problem, Post 1667 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11050971&&#post11050971) You stated the TV did nothing after the warm up screen. Many suggested that you unhook your components, ever unplug your TV. What all did you try and when BB came what did they do, relative to hands on your TV?

I've had my Westy 47" for about two weeks now and I'd say there are really only two things `wrong` with it

1) The IR receiver seems very, very picky. It's hard to use my remote ( or my DirecTV remote ) to control the volume. It's a very small cone of functinality

2) I get overscan noise on the top or side of the screen on some channels. Probably really the fault of my DirecTV box but it's annoying that there is no way to filter this on the TV/Monitor side. The stretch modes are too much for what I need.

On the onset of your problem, Post 1667 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11050971&&#post11050971) You stated the TV did nothing after the warm up screen. Many suggested that you unhook your components, ever unplug your TV. What all did you try and when BB came what did they do, relative to hands on your TV?

Well after the initial instance I unplugged the TV and turned off the PS3, then plugged the TV back in and attempted a startup, didn't work. Then I unplugged the TV again and ALL the connected Devices, plugged the TV back in and tried again, didn't work. Then I attempted to have the PS3 on while I attempted the next startup, no dice. I attempted to leave the TV unplugged for a couple of hours then attempt startup, didn't work. I also tried to leave the TV alone after plugging it in for a couple of hours then attempt startup, didn't work.

What the unit does is after I unplug the TV and wait for the unit to loose the internal charge, which is about 10 seconds for the front LED to turn off after unplugging it, I wait a bit longer for good measure. Then I plug it back in and the LED on the TV becomes amber, then I turn the TV on and it waits abouit 10 seconds or so and the Westinghouse symbol pops up as usual. After a little bit longer the symbol starts to fade, as usual but then it flickers and disappears and the LED stays amber. Nothing on the screen at all and I can't attempt to turn it back "on" again until I unplug it.

BB basically saw the TV with no connections and an unplugged cord, no coax either. They plugged the unit in, hit the power button and waited for the symbol to appear and watched it go away. With nothing attached at the very least the unit should show the square in the upper right displaying "no signal", but that's not there at all. So he then called Westinghouse and they told him that it must be a board. They considered it a "lemon" that's the name it is going under for the return.

Well BB visited this afternoon, and took all of 5 minutes to see the problem, call Westinghouse, and say the board is shot. So it is back in it's box right now, sitting there waiting for me to take it back and get a store credit. I won't have the new unit unit Friday afternoon since the coupon isn't good until then.

I'll probably get another TX42, but I want the store credit so I can get the lower price and the 12% off, which I wasn't able to do previously since they were matching the online price and couldn't combine the two. But now the price in the store is $30 cheaper than I paid and if I take the 12% off I basically pay for the 4 year warranty.

So when it is all said and done I'll be getting this TV for $160 less than I previously paid, I guess a blessing in disguise :D .

Now if the new one dies due to the same problem, I'm switching manufacturers.

How much was the 4 year warranty?

How much was the 4 year warranty?

$149.99

Well after the initial instance I unplugged the TV and turned off the PS3, then plugged the TV back in and attempted a startup, didn't work. Then I unplugged the TV again and ALL the connected Devices, plugged the TV back in and tried again, didn't work. Then I attempted to have the PS3 on while I attempted the next startup, no dice. I attempted to leave the TV unplugged for a couple of hours then attempt startup, didn't work. I also tried to leave the TV alone after plugging it in for a couple of hours then attempt startup, didn't work.

What the unit does is after I unplug the TV and wait for the unit to loose the internal charge, which is about 10 seconds for the front LED to turn off after unplugging it, I wait a bit longer for good measure. Then I plug it back in and the LED on the TV becomes amber, then I turn the TV on and it waits abouit 10 seconds or so and the Westinghouse symbol pops up as usual. After a little bit longer the symbol starts to fade, as usual but then it flickers and disappears and the LED stays amber. Nothing on the screen at all and I can't attempt to turn it back "on" again until I unplug it.

BB basically saw the TV with no connections and an unplugged cord, no coax either. They plugged the unit in, hit the power button and waited for the symbol to appear and watched it go away. With nothing attached at the very least the unit should show the square in the upper right displaying "no signal", but that's not there at all. So he then called Westinghouse and they told him that it must be a board. They considered it a "lemon" that's the name it is going under for the return.
Thanks for taking the time to post the details.

Well after the initial instance I unplugged the TV and turned off the PS3, then plugged the TV back in and attempted a startup, didn't work. Then I unplugged the TV again and ALL the connected Devices, plugged the TV back in and tried again, didn't work. Then I attempted to have the PS3 on while I attempted the next startup, no dice. I attempted to leave the TV unplugged for a couple of hours then attempt startup, didn't work. I also tried to leave the TV alone after plugging it in for a couple of hours then attempt startup, didn't work.

What the unit does is after I unplug the TV and wait for the unit to loose the internal charge, which is about 10 seconds for the front LED to turn off after unplugging it, I wait a bit longer for good measure. Then I plug it back in and the LED on the TV becomes amber, then I turn the TV on and it waits abouit 10 seconds or so and the Westinghouse symbol pops up as usual. After a little bit longer the symbol starts to fade, as usual but then it flickers and disappears and the LED stays amber. Nothing on the screen at all and I can't attempt to turn it back "on" again until I unplug it.

BB basically saw the TV with no connections and an unplugged cord, no coax either. They plugged the unit in, hit the power button and waited for the symbol to appear and watched it go away. With nothing attached at the very least the unit should show the square in the upper right displaying "no signal", but that's not there at all. So he then called Westinghouse and they told him that it must be a board. They considered it a "lemon" that's the name it is going under for the return.

You still havent tried the 10 sec reboot though. Hold the power button for 10 sec while turning the tv off and on.

I had this happen to me after I screwed around with the tv and this fixed it

Lutch, how long did you have the 42tx for before it stopped turning on properly?

What the unit does is after I unplug the TV and wait for the unit to loose the internal charge, which is about 10 seconds for the front LED to turn off after unplugging it, I wait a bit longer for good measure. Then I plug it back in and the LED on the TV becomes amber, then I turn the TV on and it waits abouit 10 seconds or so and the Westinghouse symbol pops up as usual. After a little bit longer the symbol starts to fade, as usual but then it flickers and disappears and the LED stays amber. Nothing on the screen at all and I can't attempt to turn it back "on" again until I unplug it.
If you've ever used a coax signal with your TV, make sure to try turning on the TV with only the coax plugged in. There must be a signal on the coax line, of course. I had the same symptoms as you when I lost my coax signal after turning the TV off while in TV mode. Unplugging the set for a long time, holding down the power button, etc. were unable to bring it back alive -- the only fix was to feed it the coax signal it craved.

More in my previous post about this here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10978529&&#post10978529

You still havent tried the 10 sec reboot though. Hold the power button for 10 sec while turning the tv off and on.

I had this happen to me after I screwed around with the tv and this fixed it

more on this please?

If you've ever used a coax signal with your TV, make sure to try turning on the TV with only the coax plugged in. There must be a signal on the coax line, of course. I had the same symptoms as you when I lost my coax signal after turning the TV off while in TV mode. Unplugging the set for a long time, holding down the power button, etc. were unable to bring it back alive -- the only fix was to feed it the coax signal it craved.

More in my previous post about this here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10978529&&#post10978529

By doing this above (feeding the TV the last input it was on, and holding the power button for about 10 seconds until the boot logo comes up (even in normal power mode) which does a reboot, fixes the lockup issue.

^^

Ah ok, I've had to do that a few times, it was the way he wrote it that I didn't get

Hold the power button for 10 sec while turning the tv off and on.

Well, I didn't get many replies to my post, but I have decided to keep my set. After tweaking RGB levels and the combination of Brightness/Contrast/Backlight, the black levels and shadow crush, while still annoying, are not bad enough now to justify spending another $600+ on a Samsung or something for a minor increase in black level quality. And I am hopeful that we soon are able to get into the service menu and can adjust gamma.

I still have old analog cable (really doesn't look all that bad), but I'm investigating DirectTV HD, and DVDs on my old non-progressive Toshiba DVD player look incredible.

I'm looking to get the newest Oppo DVD player if anyone has an opinion on that.

okay so today I turn on my 42tx connected to my notebook through vga and its suddenly much sharper it was than yesterday also the waviness is significantly reduced

Ok, I tried all the suggestions out of shear curiosity and still no picture. So in an odd way I feel better about returning the TV and getting the lower price. Even if the suggestions worked I would have still returned it, the process was already started and I could get the TV cheaper. Tomorrow I'll be back in the store to save some money and spend some more (time to buy digital surround sound).

Well after reading through this whole thread I am really considering canceling the order I placed for the Westy 47"TX From Dell. ca.

I am coming from a panny ED palsma, 42". ...being Enhanced Def, It has better contrast right away out of the box, plus the panny blacks, the picture was great.

I fear the I might miss too much if I stick with this LCD. Especially with the talk of "black crush" ...is that similar to plasma false contouring in black scenes ?

I'm not really know what to do here, I've read you all say so many good things about this set, but then so many bad as well. I still have time to cancel my order with Dell as the TV hasnt shipped yet.

the blacks are no better or worse than the majority of lcd's out today but if you're coming from a plasma you will probably notice a difference in the blacks..take a look at it in the store to see what you think

Ok, I tried all the suggestions out of shear curiosity and still no picture. So in an odd way I feel better about returning the TV and getting the lower price. Even if the suggestions worked I would have still returned it, the process was already started and I could get the TV cheaper. Tomorrow I'll be back in the store to save some money and spend some more (time to buy digital surround sound).

Sporting of you to test this all out. There is NOTHING ODD about having done all you could do and then a measure more. The value of your time is worth something. Hope all goes smoothly for you tomorrow.

are the lockup and non working PIP issues still present on those new owners with the 47??

i went to bb last night, extremely poor customer serivce. i asked for a remote and he said no, also asked about PIP he said yes. etc etc.. i didnt really get anywhere .

Still no PIP afaik, but theoretically should be easy to add in a firmware update

Some people still have lockup issues, but probably not a majority of TX owners (I've not had any problems with that). Most (but not all) of the people with lockups have been able to fix them, so they're not terminal issues.

are the lockup and non working PIP issues still present on those new owners with the 47??

i went to bb last night, extremely poor customer serivce. i asked for a remote and he said no, also asked about PIP he said yes. etc etc.. i didnt really get anywhere .

heh BB and customer service are mutually exclusive

I have a question:

When playing the Wii on the Westinghouse TX-42F430S, I noticed that while the channels screen fills up the entire television, when playing an actual game, there are two one inch vertical black bars on either side of the screen. Apparently the games themselves don't fill the television.

Has anyone else had this problem? I had the 42" before, but returned it because of this and a few other problems, but believe with a newer manufacturing date and firmware, this television will be the best bang for your buck. I would like to purchase it again as where this television is going, I don't really need to go big.

Thank you for your time.

thats the one option I wish this TV had, which is the option to stretch (horizontally) to fill

I thought the Westinghouses have a "Fill" option?

I actually did use the option when playing games on the TV with the Wii, but I noticed a bit of overscan on both sides. I wonder if anyone else had this problem.

Still no PIP afaik, but theoretically should be easy to add in a firmware update

Some people still have lockup issues, but probably not a majority of TX owners (I've not had any problems with that). Most (but not all) of the people with lockups have been able to fix them, so they're not terminal issues.

oh ok,

this may seem like a odd question .. but im currently using and old skool crt 30" with digital cable (tv has NO pip)

however the digi cable remote has a pip option and it works on the unit!
anyone else have a similar setup and use it on the TX ?

I thought the Westinghouses have a "Fill" option?

I actually did use the option when playing games on the TV with the Wii, but I noticed a bit of overscan on both sides. I wonder if anyone else had this problem.

yes but the first option crops the 4:3 only a little bit so that the vertical bars are about half the size as before..the second option is just overscan mode which zooms in to fit the 16:9 format

what i'm talking about is just taking the 4:3 and stretching to the sides to fill the vertical bars without cropping

The thing is, the Wii has a 16:9 option and most of the games I play are in widescreen, except they don't go the full screen and stop short of 1 inch from both sides.

actually i'm having the same problem with my ps2 through component..even when set to 16:9 it doesn't fill the screen correctly...also 1080i doesn't seem to work anymore but that was a problem even before on the old sony projection tv we had so it seems to be a ps2 problem

Yeah, when I hooked up my Xbox 360 to the TV, the system was originally set to 1080i for my old TV and the screen started to jitter up and down a lot, as if the television doesn't really do 1080i at all.

Yeah, when I hooked up my Xbox 360 to the TV, the system was originally set to 1080i for my old TV and the screen started to jitter up and down a lot, as if the television doesn't really do 1080i at all.
You have your deinterlace option turned off in the calibration menu. There's a reason why I keep telling people not to do this. ;)

On the Wii: some game systems intentionally underscan to compensate for the overscan that is still common on televisions. The older PS2 models underscan by at least 5%.

So am I corrrect to assume that the majority of people with this set really are happy with their purchase ? The build quality seems to be in question with all of the power up issues ?

Have Cnet or any of the others gotten a look at this set yet ?

First post here. I glanced through this thread, and it's hard to follow with nearly 60 pages. Can anyone give a comparison of this to some of the other 42" LCD 1080p TVs at comparable price points- ie- the 1080p Vizio, the 1080p Magnavox that Costco recently had?

I'm looking at LCD and plasma, and for those prices there's been some, like this 42" Westy, currently on sale at Best Buy, that fit my budget and are 1080p. But reading over the last couple pages of "problems", it's got me scared of this Westy.

Can anyone compare it to Vizio or Magnavox or a similarly priced/budgeted 42" 1080p LCD?

essence: CNet doesn't seem to have a review yet. Only 3 customer reviews.

I have a question:

When playing the Wii on the Westinghouse TX-42F430S, I noticed that while the channels screen fills up the entire television, when playing an actual game, there are two one inch vertical black bars on either side of the screen. Apparently the games themselves don't fill the television.

Has anyone else had this problem? I had the 42" before, but returned it because of this and a few other problems, but believe with a newer manufacturing date and firmware, this television will be the best bang for your buck. I would like to purchase it again as where this television is going, I don't really need to go big.

Thank you for your time.

When I play Wii, I have to use the fill option. The games I used stay in 4:3 even when set to 16:9 in the Wii Menu. Fill mode corrects this and I dont see much overscan, if at all. I'll have to check again tonight, but this issue is from the system, not the TV.

just an FYI too for anyone interested DELL in Canada is seling these sets now.