The mirror adjustment only affects the bottom of the picture. To move the top portion, you can try shimming a corner of the base of the TV. This problem is common if the TV is not on a flat surface. To make further adjustments, you have to go inside and twist the whole light engine or make tilt adjustments.

I'm looking for suggestions for ambient lighting, I have had my TV for a while and I am really wanting to add some ambient lighting.... i have been looking for a while to find something to fill this void... any suggestions....

I'm looking for suggestions for ambient lighting, I have had my TV for a while and I am really wanting to add some ambient lighting.... i have been looking for a while to find something to fill this void... any suggestions....

http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lumesb.htm

I have this with a remote. Works awesome

The mirror adjustment only affects the bottom of the picture. To move the top portion, you can try shimming a corner of the base of the TV. This problem is common if the TV is not on a flat surface. To make further adjustments, you have to go inside and twist the whole light engine or make tilt adjustments.

Thanks for the reply, Shinka. It is on a flat surface. What do you mean exactly by 'shimming a corner'? How does one make tilt adjustments?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I bought this about 15 months ago. I have noticed some things about it relative to the discussions about screen bowing. But my issue is a little different. My screen is flat. The screen is not the issue. However the bezel would give the impression of it being the screen. You see, when I tape measure from the bottom of the screen to the top edge of the bezel on the left of my TV- straight vertical- it measures 27 1/16" but on the right side same measure its 27 9/16". I have more screen showing in the vertical on the right side of my tv than on the left. This will actually make it seem like programs and/or tickers are not even, not going straight across the screen when in fact they are, it's just that your eyes are telling you that it's uneven. I don't know if there's any way to fix this issue w/o getting a whole new bezel. Further, I have noticed that a few people on here have gotten a test grid on there tv to check screen geometry. How do I do this, is there a test disc I can buy? I have the tv set where I like it but would like to officially calibrate it. By the way it is the bottom bezel that is curved. From the left where it states DLP, 1080, etc. to the right where the 3 led lights are it drops a good 1/2". Does anybody know what picture settings I should have or would be recommended?

Does anyone know if this set has any problems playing Pal content? I recently purchased my second Blu Ray player (a model which can be made region free) and I plan on ordering Martyrs from Amazon.uk soon.. However it just ocurred to me that I may run into issues in the display as this disk is pal and not ntsc. Has anyone had the chance to test the compatability of this set?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I bought this about 15 months ago. I have noticed some things about it relative to the discussions about screen bowing. But my issue is a little different. My screen is flat. The screen is not the issue. However the bezel would give the impression of it being the screen. You see, when I tape measure from the bottom of the screen to the top edge of the bezel on the left of my TV- straight vertical- it measures 27 1/16" but on the right side same measure its 27 9/16". I have more screen showing in the vertical on the right side of my tv than on the left. This will actually make it seem like programs and/or tickers are not even, not going straight across the screen when in fact they are, it's just that your eyes are telling you that it's uneven. I don't know if there's any way to fix this issue w/o getting a whole new bezel. Further, I have noticed that a few people on here have gotten a test grid on there tv to check screen geometry. How do I do this, is there a test disc I can buy? I have the tv set where I like it but would like to officially calibrate it. By the way it is the bottom bezel that is curved. From the left where it states DLP, 1080, etc. to the right where the 3 led lights are it drops a good 1/2". Does anybody know what picture settings I should have or would be recommended?

Pick up a copy of Digital video Essentials.. (available on HD DVD, Blu Ray, and DVD). That disk has several test patterns and is the best thing next to professional calibration. It has geometry tests you can use among many many other tests.

Could someone post the original service menu settings? I went in and changed my green red blue yellow and white, and lost the paper I had written the original numbers down on. Now I would like to go back to the original settings, so if anyone can take pictures of each of the menus that would be great. Thank You everyone.

Could someone post the original service menu settings? I went in and changed my green red blue yellow and white, and lost the paper I had written the original numbers down on. Now I would like to go back to the original settings, so if anyone can take pictures of each of the menus that would be great. Thank You everyone.

Here's my screen shots I took during my Service Menu (SM) level calibration.

Hope this helps:

http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/docrings/HLT%20Service%20Menu/?albumview=slideshow

Check out my Tech Links below in Red for more information. I apologize that I have not kept up with my Tech Links too much... I am in Okinawa, and the TV is in Georgia, so my hobby interests have drifted elsewhere for a while...

Cheers,
Doc

would these settings work for the hlt5076? the service menu looks quite different, and do you know what index delay should be set at? Thank You so much for your help.

my main problem with my colors is it seems that any white on the screen spreads in to other colors on the image making a hazy effect. I notice it the most when watching an image with borders, and the colors can clearly be seen in the black borders. Likewise white lettering on black looks terrible because the white spreads in to the black. Does anyone know how to treat this, or is it the nature of the tv.

Okay so I bought this TV back in 3/2008 and the lamp promptly burnt out 6/2009. I finally got around to replacing it this past week. Like a stupid jackass, I saw dust and thought, hmm, I should blow that out. Well, guess what, I know have the lovely spots on the screen when I turn on and watch the TV. So I thought, must be coming from the lamp, removed and cleaned that, spots are still there. Hmm, I guess this is coming from the convex lens? Does that sound right? I dunno. Is this something I can clean without destroying the geometry of the set? I don't really have or want a bowing issue. Also, the set now likes to alternate the brightness every second or so...very annoying. Sorry about the long post. If you've been there and done that, please spare me a little time. I've taken off the back lower panel, where do I go from there? Thank you in advance, you are my hero (in anticipation of having my issue resolved).

Dave

Okay so I bought this TV back in 3/2008 and the lamp promptly burnt out 6/2009. I finally got around to replacing it this past week. Like a stupid jackass, I saw dust and thought, hmm, I should blow that out. Well, guess what, I know have the lovely spots on the screen when I turn on and watch the TV. So I thought, must be coming from the lamp, removed and cleaned that, spots are still there. Hmm, I guess this is coming from the convex lens? Does that sound right? I dunno. Is this something I can clean without destroying the geometry of the set? I don't really have or want a bowing issue. Also, the set now likes to alternate the brightness every second or so...very annoying. Sorry about the long post. If you've been there and done that, please spare me a little time. I've taken off the back lower panel, where do I go from there? Thank you in advance, you are my hero (in anticipation of having my issue resolved).

Dave

PM sent also


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1163595

This is another thread I started.

long and short. I called someone, it turned out he didn't fix it. But I did see how to take it apart when he took off the back of the TV and slide out the projection tray which holds all the guts.

It's a matter of releasing all the wires and then unscrewing four screws which hold in the polarized glass. I cleaned the glass and then slide it out to access the convex mirror.

I DID NOT move the mirror from it's mount. I just used barley any pressure with a lens cleaning cloth to dust off the mirror.

DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT move the mirror at all.

I had no adverse effects after putting everything back together.

If you do it, take your time and don't rush.

For everybody else. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR to clean the back or inside of the TV. Don't make the same mistake we did. You will not like the results and will have to take the chance I did to clean it.

in the end, it worked out and the TV is actually like new again, but I would not want to have to do that to many times.

They really should have sealed that area from dust as I thought it was source screen grain. That's what it looks like until you see how much stuff is on the convex mirror.

Once cleaned, you say "O, that's the TV I was blown away by" WAY LESS screen grain

Could someone please let me know if they experience the problem i mentioned above? Whites on black screens haze in to the black, which is really noticeable during credits or peoples faces on dark scenes. I just want to know if this is normal because I have a tech coming out next friday to look at it, and dont want him to say its because its a dlp.

just wanted to answer my own question in case anyone has similar problems. I had an issue where colors on the screen were causing a halo around objects, especially whites. The tech came and pulled out the mirror assembly and dusted it, he also cleaned the back of the screen through the port hole. The problems I had were resolved by simply cleaning the dust from those two places. Also the bulb somehow got dust in side of it, so they are sending me a new one of those also.

I am getting a intermittently slight dimming out of the lamp and think it may be time to get a new one.

Where is the best place to get a new lamp for this unit?

Hello,

I just replaced the lamp on my HLT56476SX Samsung and NOW my picture quality is poor. The color is NOT vibrant or vivid. It's dull or dimmed. It looks slightly blurrier than I remembered on the HD channels as well. It's very much watchable but it's by far NO where near what the picture quality was before when I brought the tv new.

Anyone know why or what I need to do now to fix it?

Thanks!

I tried searching through, but couldn't find it. How do you bring the grid pattern up on screen. I recently moved my TV to a new home, and now I am experiencing a bowing problem.
Mike

Somebody has mentioned (GarretNash?) they had replaced the color wheel in a HLT5676. For Garrett: How did you know for certain this was the problem? I have one that has the temp/standby LED flashing red after powering on for a moment (less than 30 seconds), and, while the documentation states this may be a power issue, have been told that it is likely the color wheel.

Thanks....I am aiming to fix this myself, and could use some info on the troubleshooting that led you to determine the color wheel was the culprit!

Thanks!

-Trenton

have 2 years left on the best buy warranty....screen bows and is annoying. what is the best way i can use this warranty to get a new TV (not this same DLP). and no, i don't intend to commit fraud. i just am tired of this tv and its problems and would like an LCD

Well, after two years of flawless service, my 3-year-old ruined the screen of our HL-T5076. :( He squirted about 1/2 his Capri-Sun into the corner and lower part of the area where the screen meets the border. This led to the following artifacts:

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/9171/photowg.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5964/photo2hx.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/3739/photo1zh.jpg

Anyone have any idea how a repair guy would fix this? Do I need a new screen? I unscrewed the front to look at the inside of the screen, thinking I could dry it off, but the fabric interior is dry. The juice is between the plastic outer screen and the fabric.

Even if I had a warranty, it wouldn't cover this sort of incident, so I've got to pay up. I'm assuming the cost of a new screen is prohibitive and I'll end up purchasing a new set. I hope not, though!

I have a PC plugged into the HDMI3/DVI port using a DVI-to-HDMI adapter. I have the sound output of the PC plugged into the DVI audio input on the TV. I have verified that the PC is sending audio to the TV, but I cannot hear anything. It seems as if the TV is expecting HDMI audio and not the DVI-audio input. Is there a setting that will fix this?

I've ran into this problem in the past, and it seemed to go away on its own as I tinkered with settings, but I was never able to nail down the cause.

I recently swapped this PC from Linux to Windows 7 and upgraded the video card. However, the newer card has DVI ouputs only, where the old card had an HDMI out. That's when the problem cropped up again. Is there something I need to configure on the PC to "tell" the TV to expect a separate audio stream?

Thanks in advance.

im still in dire need of the cca settings for this set. the led set had a very negative effect on he color so im hoping i can get closer if someone who still visits this board can post their service menu settings. As of now im leaving my cca off, which alleviates the color problem, but not sure what im missing out on with it off.

I bought a Samsung HLT6176SX/XAA almost 2 years ago, just recently I go to turn the set on and once it is on the picture turns off after about 10 seconds but the sound still remains for about another 4 seconds, the tv makes the powering off sound and after it is off there is buzzing that is coming from the rear of the tv next to the bulb/fan/color wheel area. The tv tries to power it self on and does after a few seconds only to repeat the process. When the tv is on the lamp light is flashing on the front and when the tv shuts off the standby/temp light is flashing in red. I have talked to other people about this and seem to get different answers every time. Has anyone experienced this do I just need to replace the bulb or can it be something else? If it is the bulb where is a good place and brand to get it from?

if the lamp led and temp led are flashing the lamp door is closed improperly. also make sure the vent isnt blocked before buying a new lamp, 2 years is a short time period for a lamp.

if the lamp led and temp led are flashing the lamp door is closed improperly. also make sure the vent isnt blocked before buying a new lamp, 2 years is a short time period for a lamp.

I had never opened the door previous to this happening, when it is on the lamp is blinking and when it shuts off the standby/temp blinks and it tries to turn on, how do I know if the door is not closed properly is it not turning the switch how it should be when the door is closed?

The lamp ballest will buzz loudly trying to start the lamp. Should only happen if the lamp is hot (just turned off) or is bad. The lamp led flashes until the lamp starts. A bad color wheel could also buzz. The standby and lamp LEDs will blink if the door is not closed. Page 7 in the manual explains the LED codes. Sounds like either the lamp ballast or the lamp itself is bad.

is there anyone that still frequents this board who can access the service menu and post the cca settings?

I have had this tv close to four years. about three weeks ago one pixel turned green. Now there are over 30 pixels like this. Don't notice them a lot unless the background is a darker color. does this have anything to do with the color wheel? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Or is it simply time for a new tv. thanks. greg

Hello,

Of course this happens on Super Bowl Sunday. I have a 5676S. When I try to turn on the TV, it cycles 3 or 4 times, with the LED light blinking before finally all 3 lights start blinking. So, is this an indication I need a new lamp, or is it a problem with the power supply? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I took the time to thoroughly clean my 5076 the other day and after vacuuming out as much dust as I could from the outside I blew some air through the cooling fan to try to get some of the dust off of it. Now I have artifacts on the screen that are especially noticeable when watching any sort of dark scenes. I tried reaching inside through the access hole in the back of the TV to clean the mirror on the top and the inside of the screen using the screen cleaner and cloth that are designed for the outside of the screen but it didn't help at all. I'd like to take the front screen off in the hopes that I can see where the dust landed that is causing this problem and hopefully clean it. Can someone give me some insight as to how to remove the front panel and screen? I attempted to do it by removing screws on the back of the TV around the perimeter of the screen but I didn't make much progress so I stopped before I made more problems for myself. I hope someone here can send me in the right direction.

Thanks.

John

A lot of dust settles on the lens cover in the bottom. Open the back porthole with the set turned on and you can easily see where dust and debris are. If the lens itself is dirty, you will have to remove the light engine and then remove the lens cover to access the lens. Removing the screen is a major operation, you have to remove the light engine and processor to get to a bunch of additional screws inside.

This is for all you people with the dust problem

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1163595

In short, DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR ON THE BACK OR EXTERIOR OF THE SET!!!!!!!!!!!!

it will spread it around internally and get dust within the projection chamber and convex mirror. It is NOT sealed like it should be.:eek::eek::eek::eek:

A lot of dust settles on the lens cover in the bottom. Open the back porthole with the set turned on and you can easily see where dust and debris are. If the lens itself is dirty, you will have to remove the light engine and then remove the lens cover to access the lens. Removing the screen is a major operation, you have to remove the light engine and processor to get to a bunch of additional screws inside.

Sorry but I have a differing opinion.


DO NOT OPEN THE SET WITH IT TURNED ON. You can shock or burn yourself.

See my post above. You can thoroughly clean everything with the set un-plugged

The porthole on the back opens to the cavity behind the screen only, there are no electronics in there. It's perfectly safe to open with the set on, there's not even a screw to remove. The set has to be on to see how much dirt and dust is on the glass window in the bottom that the video is projected through. Do you even own this model?

The porthole on the back opens to the cavity behind the screen only, there are no electronics in there. It's perfectly safe to open with the set on, there's not even a screw to remove. The set has to be on to see how much dirt and dust is on the glass window in the bottom that the video is projected through. Do you even own this model?

I was speaking more generally, that opening up any electronic device with it on is not a good idea.

Maybe you can open up the porthole you mentioned, but to actually do anything you need to take the projection tray out.

The dust issue is coming from the convex mirror under the polarized glass which your not going to see well through a porthole. The entire projection tray needs to come out and the polarized glass removed

and yea I do own it.

So I ahve been doing some research, but I can't find any answer. Maybe I don't know enough about DLP but.....

So my parents ahve the hlt 76 and the black bars (top&bottom) have significan blurring and bleeding of color onto them from the rest of the scree. Like if it is showing a guy with a white shirt that was "touching" a black bar, the black bar would be a light gray color in that area. At first it was ok, I thought it was cool, but now we all have LCDs and I'd prefer to not ahve it do that anymore since we all find it annoying. Is there a way to turn it off if it is a feature?

I just received an email from Samsung, stating there is a class action lawsuit regarding this line of DLP televisions. It covers a "shadow effect" around the border of the picture.

I just recently noticed a weird area on the top of my picture. So, may have to give them call regarding this. Thought you guys would like to know

Anymore info on suit would be great.

Anymore info on suit would be great.

http://www.samsung.com/us/dlptvsettlement/

Hello,

Of course this happens on Super Bowl Sunday. I have a 5676S. When I try to turn on the TV, it cycles 3 or 4 times, with the LED light blinking before finally all 3 lights start blinking. So, is this an indication I need a new lamp, or is it a problem with the power supply? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have gone through all the threads and found one or two other problems like this but noone has given any help, I have the same problem (it didn't happen during the Super Bowl though.) I get it, bowing, geometry, dark spots are all huge problems but there are others that need a little help. So whats the deal? My TV shut off and sounds like it is trying to come back on but but just cycles, I too have 3 blinking lights.

According to the owners manual, 3 blinking lights mean the lamp need to be replaced :(

According to the owners manual, 3 blinking lights mean the lamp need to be replaced :(
Thanks Jeff,
The TV came with the house when I bought it so I don't have a manual, I guess I should try and download one.

i have a 5676s that was bought used about a year ago it worked great for the year (little bowing but ohh well its 4 years old) it belongs to my fiances parents and they told me if i can fix it i can have it.

now the problem. my little sister in law was watching it one day this summer and shut it off when her parents got home from work it wouldnt turn back on.

there is a medium to loud humming when i turn it on after about 5 seconds the lcd that is the farthest to the right starts to blink green (i belive this indicates that the picture will show within 15 seconds it never does)

after about 30 seconds to a minute it resets and cycles through this again

any help would be apreciated as i would much rather fix a used tv and deal with a little bowing than try to buy a new one (i am only 23 so i can use a few years of hardship lol)

The manual says the LED furthest to the right is the lamp LED. It also says that if all 3 LED's light up you need to replace the bulb. Since you are only getting one light on its hard to tell, but I would bet its the lamp. You may want to try to find the manual online and read it over, you may uncover more info. Good luck. :)

Just wondering how everyone is doing with this TV Still, Any further on the lawsuit

still going strong on original lamp. had it since they came out. great set:)

I can't complain either, I have had the bowing I had it fixed but it came back. But I still like the tv.

Mines still awesome! Never had the bowing issue, and still on the original lamp!
Have never regretted the purchase, and I still think the picture is better than 95% of all the LCD and plasma sets I see. (And I see plenty cause I'm a cable guy!) :D

Hello,

I am hoping someone has a solution for the problem I am having with my dad's 5076S.

He loves the tv and so do I. I bought it for him in September 2007.

Just recently he went to turn it on and the display never came on and it started blinking the far right (lamp) indicator light.

I read the manual and there is no explanation for the far right indicator light only.

It blinks for a couple minutes then the set powers down. No audio/no video.

I ordered a genuine replacement bulb and just installed it tonight.

It is doing the same thing so it looks like the bulb is not the issue.

Can anyone give me a clue what it might be? I would really appreciate any advice you can provide.

This has been a great set and I hope it will continue to be once this gets figured out.

Please help!

Thanks for your time,

Nick

Hello:
We are having the exact, identical problem as explained above post. If anyone has any ideas of things to try, please let us know. Thanks.

Hello,

I am hoping someone has a solution for the problem I am having with my dad's 5076S.

He loves the tv and so do I. I bought it for him in September 2007.

Just recently he went to turn it on and the display never came on and it started blinking the far right (lamp) indicator light.

I read the manual and there is no explanation for the far right indicator light only.

It blinks for a couple minutes then the set powers down. No audio/no video.

I ordered a genuine replacement bulb and just installed it tonight.

It is doing the same thing so it looks like the bulb is not the issue.

Can anyone give me a clue what it might be? I would really appreciate any advice you can provide.

This has been a great set and I hope it will continue to be once this gets figured out.

Please help!

Thanks for your time,

Nick

My 5676 just started doing this same thing tonight after pulling workhorse TV duty in our house for around 4 years now. Never a hiccup before this.

I'm considering what I should do. It's not three blinking lights like the manual says you would get if it were just the lamp. I'm torn between ordering a new lamp, waiting for it to come in, maybe or maybe not fix the problem or just saying the heck with it and getting a new TV.

Don't want to buy a new TV right now, but I also don't want 1-2 weeks of waiting and frustration only to have the lamp not fix the issue.

:(

nicksgem10s & LattimerII: since the 3 of us are having the same problem, just thought that I'd let you know what I've tried so far.

A lot of what I found on the web related to this problem was related to the power supply and the capacitors going bad. So, I removed the power supply board and examined the caps, but they are all good. Not sure what to try next. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know. Thanks

nicksgem10s & LattimerII: since the 3 of us are having the same problem, just thought that I'd let you know what I've tried so far.

A lot of what I found on the web related to this problem was related to the power supply and the capacitors going bad. So, I removed the power supply board and examined the caps, but they are all good. Not sure what to try next. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know. Thanks

I posted on another board and received these two replies. I did order a lamp, and I'm waiting for it to come in. I'll try a few things once that gets here. Anyway, on to the other board's suggestions.


1.
"There is a little roller switch that is right behind the panel you remove to replace the lamp.
The plastic warps a bit, and the switch thinks the panel is removed, and turns off the lamp.

I have replaced lamp once, and fixed this switch once, and it keeps on going so far.
My fix was to make the roller switch "fatter" with a small piece of duct tape. Has been
working for a year now.

I found this info online somewhere with a lot of googling. Good luck."


2.
"You might also want to look into the color wheel. Mine did the same thing.... lamp ended up fine but had to replace the color wheel."

I posted on another board and received these two replies. I did order a lamp, and I'm waiting for it to come in. I'll try a few things once that gets here. Anyway, on to the other board's suggestions.


1.
"There is a little roller switch that is right behind the panel you remove to replace the lamp.
The plastic warps a bit, and the switch thinks the panel is removed, and turns off the lamp.

I have replaced lamp once, and fixed this switch once, and it keeps on going so far.
My fix was to make the roller switch "fatter" with a small piece of duct tape. Has been
working for a year now.

I found this info online somewhere with a lot of googling. Good luck."


2.
"You might also want to look into the color wheel. Mine did the same thing.... lamp ended up fine but had to replace the color wheel."
Thanks for the info!! I'll look into those things and let you know if anything else comes up.

Well, replacing the lamp seems to have fixed my issues. Odd that it had the symptoms that it did instead of blinking 3 LEDs like the manual states it should, but regardless it's working now. :D

Well, replacing the lamp seems to have fixed my issues. Odd that it had the symptoms that it did instead of blinking 3 LEDs like the manual states it should, but regardless it's working now. :D

Glad to hear that. Keep us posted as to how it holds up. Does the pic quality look the same as it did before or does it look like a whole new display? :D

Glad to hear that. Keep us posted as to how it holds up. Does the pic quality look the same as it did before or does it look like a whole new display? :D

MAYBE a little brighter?? I don't know. After not watching it for a week, it's hard to say. Seems to be same picture quality just maybe a tad brighter. Of course pic quality was always good anyway.

Well, I havent looked at this thread in I dont know how long... Unfortunately I'm back to report that my HL-T6176S has developed seven white dots in the upper right corner of the screen. I did the basic research on the white dot phenomenon, and the DMD chip failure, and the way that Samsung is trying to stiff as many owners on the repairs as possible.

Thru several calls to the corporate "customer service" number, and a candid chat with the local approved service center, I have determined a few useful facts, forgive me if this is redundant:

1. Samsungs Tier 1 service reps are soley there to get you to go away and go pay for your repair yourself. They will say nearly anything and deny just about everything to this end.

2. According to tech center, white pixel dots are the DMD chip, period, no matter how much the call center denies it.

3. The DMD chip costs just about $200 from samsung, but they wont sell direct to you the consumer, or at least thats their line.

4. There seems to be a magic number of complaints per specific model (size and series) of tv which will trigger Samsung to be willing to recognize your tv as being flawed. The costs on repairs of HL-Ses are already covered, and certain sizes fo HL-T have hit the threshold. In my particular case, I have found that the trigger number for the 6176 has not yet been hit.

I would recommend owners facing the white dots issues to call the 1-800 number for Samsung tech support and not be dissuaded. Eventually the trigger number will be hit, but the sooner the better. There is no reason why $2500 tvs should be failing at 3 yrs old.
I am quite disappointed in both the durability of the technology and the quality of Samsungs customer service on the issue.

That aside, i still love the TV :)

Well, I havent looked at this thread in I dont know how long... Unfortunately I'm back to report that my HL-T6176S has developed seven white dots in the upper right corner of the screen. I did the basic research on the white dot phenomenon, and the DMD chip failure, and the way that Samsung is trying to stiff as many owners on the repairs as possible.

Thru several calls to the corporate "customer service" number, and a candid chat with the local approved service center, I have determined a few useful facts, forgive me if this is redundant:

1. Samsungs Tier 1 service reps are soley there to get you to go away and go pay for your repair yourself. They will say nearly anything and deny just about everything to this end.

2. According to tech center, white pixel dots are the DMD chip, period, no matter how much the call center denies it.

3. The DMD chip costs just about $200 from samsung, but they wont sell direct to you the consumer, or at least thats their line.

4. There seems to be a magic number of complaints per specific model (size and series) of tv which will trigger Samsung to be willing to recognize your tv as being flawed. The costs on repairs of HL-Ses are already covered, and certain sizes fo HL-T have hit the threshold. In my particular case, I have found that the trigger number for the 6176 has not yet been hit.

I would recommend owners facing the white dots issues to call the 1-800 number for Samsung tech support and not be dissuaded. Eventually the trigger number will be hit, but the sooner the better. There is no reason why $2500 tvs should be failing at 3 yrs old.
I am quite disappointed in both the durability of the technology and the quality of Samsungs customer service on the issue.

That aside, i still love the TV :)

Hello!
My HLT 6176S developed it's first white dot last night. I called 1800 number and was told that it would not be covered. I have a extended warranty, that expires in 6/2011.

I am going to call them and get a ticket number for this, and then write a letter.

Funny thing is that the email I sent to Samsung, when replied, they implied that it would be covered under warranty.

I paid $2000 for the TV, in July 2007. I was expecting it to last at least 5 to 6 years!

Anyone have luck getting the 6176S repaired at Samsun's expense?

Display DOES NOT come on and blinking the far right (lamp) indicator LED
It blinks for a couple minutes then the set powers down. No audio/no video.


This is last ditch attempt to see if anyone has any other suggestions for repairing problem with our HLT5076SX. Problem is described above.

We can see that the lamp lights up, but still no picture. That makes me think it is something downstream of lamp -- maybe light engine or digital board? Any ideas?

I also have a HL-T6176S and I just found our first white dot tonight. Bought TV June '07. I guess I need to call Samsung.

I also have a HL-T6176S and I just found our first white dot tonight. Bought TV June '07. I guess I need to call Samsung.

For about 2-3 weeks we had a mysterious green dot appear at the extreme right side of the screen (about half way up). I was thinking this was a "stuck" pixel, but not sure. It was not in a critical spot at all. But then it suddenly disappeared. Not sure what to make of it. Otherwise everything looking excellent. I will be interested to hear what Sam has to say about it though. :)

Hey guys, been reading these forums for awhile now. I have a HL-T6176SX/XAA, version - PH01. My screen is FILLED with Black and White dots. I cannot even make out a picture it is so bad. This started several months ago and I have just not been able to deal with it until now. Thanks to Christmas I have some extra money and would like to !finally! fix this. Other threads within this forum deal with this issue and have narrowed it down to a faulty DLP chip (the one with all the micro-mirrors on it). I'm wondering if anyone knows if this is also the faulty component on these TV's. I don't really have the $200 to throw away replacing a good part. I'll see if I can take some pictures of it tonight so it can be compared to others. I would LOVE to get this TV fixed asap, I'm sick of looking at my little 19" TV sitting in-front of my awesome 61" one.

Ok, so I just posted before I left work and have come home, taken some pictures and am putting them up now. These pics are taken with good camera and are perfectly clear. They show my TV with the Playstation3 background main menu up. The first one shows it with the GTA3 background loaded for some color, the others without the background. As you can see the TV is kept in a corner with TONS of ventaltion and its kept inside with nominal (if not cooler than nominal) temperatures year round. Anywhoo, here's the pics.

:mad: ahh, have to post more before it will let me post link....still a newbie...

OK, here we go.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57846085@N03/

Go there, if you look closely you will see the white *and* the black dots. One of the pics has a white line running side to side, this is part of the graphic that is currently on the screen, it looks like its made up of the white dots, but is actually broken up so much by the black dots that it appears to be a defect in the picture. Also notice how the normal viewing area of the screen (I dont have HD cable) is much more infected by the dots than the two strips on the outer edges that only get used for HD video display.

OK, here we go.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57846085@N03/

Go there, if you look closely you will see the white *and* the black dots. One of the pics has a white line running side to side, this is part of the graphic that is currently on the screen, it looks like its made up of the white dots, but is actually broken up so much by the black dots that it appears to be a defect in the picture. Also notice how the normal viewing area of the screen (I dont have HD cable) is much more infected by the dots than the two strips on the outer edges that only get used for HD video display.

Wow! That's rough! I've never seen anything like that. I'm sorry to say I have no idea. Anyone else?:eek:

Was afraid of that. I really hope I don't have to pay someone to come out and look at it. I think I'd rather try the DLP chip first. I have some posts in other threads dealing with the white dot issue. We'll see what they say. Also remember that this is a advanced stage, my TV has had this issue for several months now. Progressively getting worse all the time.

Do other sources/inputs have the same problem? Mine looked similar when using the Apple TV but I don't know what it is yet since I moved it to my other TV where it works just fine.

Yeah, all sources, all channels. When it first started it was just a few white dots here and there. Then progressively got worse until it was to this point.

I also have a HL-T6176S and I just found our first white dot tonight. Bought TV June '07. I guess I need to call Samsung.

Any luck?

I'm having the same issue with my samsung hl-6176s. I called samsung with no luck. They won't replace the dmd chip and the local repair said that the parts and labor would come out to $525. At this point I'm up to 20 white dots and it started 6 days ago. If anyone comes up with a solution, please post. Hopefully repeated calls to samsung may cause them to replace as they should.

FWIW - My co-worker purchased a Sony Rear Projection TV about 5 years ago which worked fine up until a few weeks ago where a green "blob" appeared on his set. Turns out there was a class action suit against Sony for this issue and the settlement was to replace them with a brand new set. He had the choice for a new LED LCD, but opted to go the other route of returning it to Costco (even after 5 yrs) for a full refund. Either way, he was going to be getting a new set and not have to live with issue. Anyway, my point is that I wonder if there are enough Samsung owners out there with the same issue(s) to warrant a class action law suit(?).

Hello!
My HLT 6176S developed it's first white dot last night. I called 1800 number and was told that it would not be covered. I have a extended warranty, that expires in 6/2011.

I am going to call them and get a ticket number for this, and then write a letter.

Funny thing is that the email I sent to Samsung, when replied, they implied that it would be covered under warranty.

I paid $2000 for the TV, in July 2007. I was expecting it to last at least 5 to 6 years!

Anyone have luck getting the 6176S repaired at Samsun's expense?

Update:

I wrote my letter, after getting the third dot to the President of Samsung Electronics USA. I got a call on monday from them, saying that they would fix it :). I have also talked to the local service center to schedule the fix, but their appears to be a nation wide shortage of the chips :eek:. They have placed the order for my part/DMD chip, and will let me know when it comes in (hopefully in the next couple of weeks).

Thanks to everyone for posting.
I believe the key was a polite, but firm letter expressing my dissapointment in that certain product lines were covered, but not others, and all with the same issue. I did not threaten to sue or file a class action or anything like that, just that I was dissapointed and frustrated.

I just got off the phone with Samsung for 'white dot' issue that my model HL-T5076S was not on their 'list' of models approved for free service repair of the DMD chip 4719-001981.
My argument was that same chip in similar models that WERE apparently covered should mean that my model should also be covered. After reaching an 'Executive Care Specialist' they capitulated and hopefully soon i will have a certified tech out to verify my problem is indeed a white dot problem, and if so, they will repair free of charge. My unit was built in 09/2007.

So I called the Executive Customer Relations directly at 800-522-7341 and told them that I have white dots. They issued a ticket and a day later I got a call from a local repair shop. The local repair shop said my HLT6176 was out of warranty and they will charge to fix it. I called ECR back and told them the repair company won't fix it unless they extend the warranty in the paperwork. Samsung issued a new ticket and the local repair shop said I am good to go. They ordered the DLP chip which is on back order and should be in within a week and they will call to schedule repair when it comes in. Still keeping my fingers crossed. I never had to complain or argue with the ECR folks, it was strangely easy.

Ok. So after SEVERAL (3-5) attempts at the 1-800-samsung customer service phone number (being escalated to an "executive rep" each time) and 1 or 2 attempts at the web chat on their website and trying different ways of asking/pleading I finally tried the "Samsung Executive customer service" phone number (1-800-522-7341). Not ten minutes into the call and the rep had agreed for a one time repair for the white dot issue on my HLT6176SX/XAA with me only having to pay "diagnosis" for the repair. A service ticket was made and e-mailed to me. I called the repair shop the same day, they were able to find the repair ticket and the "diagnosis" was completed over the phone!! For no charge!! Parts are ordered, and my set should be repaired by the end of next week! Sweet, Samsung finally stepped up and did the right thing. I asked the Rep what the difference between the normal customer service phone line and this one was and she basically said that they are able to authorize more than the other customer service lines. I HIGHLY recommend anyone having problems to call this number.
I'll update as things progress, but the outlook is good.

*crosses fingers, knocks on wood, rubs rabbit foot*

The part came in and repair is scheduled for tomorrow!!!

FIXED!!! :D :D :D :D

The tech came out and changed out the DLP Chip. It looked like a CPU chip but had a 16x9 mirror the size of a finger nail on the top side. It took him about 30mins or so from start to finish. All the dots (50+ this morning) are gone! The TV looks brand new again now after 3.5+ years and ~3000 hours.

I totally recommend anyone with this issue to call the number I recommended above.

Cost: $0.00 :D

I am glad they stood buy it. I like this tv alot even with its little flaws. I try not to use it to much, just for movies and ps3.

I'm having a strange problem and I can't seem to find any help.

I have a 56 in. HL-T5676S. Its about 3yrs old. Input Source changes on its own. It just goes crazy! Somedays, the set would act normal. Then out of nowhere, the switchfest would begin. Also, the set would automatically switch to the "Dynamic" setting minutes after I choose differently.

Someone please help. I really like this TV and don't want to replace it yet. But its Driving me Crazy! It really sucks because I'm out of warranty and I don't know what to do.

Kind of sounds like the set may be in "demo mode" or "store mode" where it reverts to specific settings after people have tinkered with it in the retail store.
Have you checked the owners manual? :)

Thanks for responding. Yes, I've read here that the "dynamic" resetting itself can be a result of the set being in demo mode. But I can't find the setting to check if that's the case. Also, do you think that would explain the input source changing so frequently?

Another thing, I've noticed that the "light effect" setting will revert to "always" at the same time the "dynamic" setting problem occurs.

Thanks again for your help.

I'm having a strange problem and I can't seem to find any help.

I have a 56 in. HL-T5676S. Its about 3yrs old. Input Source changes on its own. It just goes crazy! Somedays, the set would act normal. Then out of nowhere, the switchfest would begin. Also, the set would automatically switch to the "Dynamic" setting minutes after I choose differently.

Someone please help. I really like this TV and don't want to replace it yet. But its Driving me Crazy! It really sucks because I'm out of warranty and I don't know what to do.

Get yourself a Service Manual, search the internet for a free one, or maybe pay <$10 if necessary. I don't have that one, but some Sam DLP-SMs I have read have several different kinds of software resets documented.

Call Samsung anyway, even if you think it's out of warranty if there is a problem they know about they might help you, perhaps with a firmware upgrade, reset tips, etc. Talk really nice, make like you are a lifelong Sam customer, etc.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give the phonecall route a shot and update with results. Thanks again.

All:

Samsung repaired my white dot issue out of warranty as a one time courtesy repair. However, a few days later, we noticed a "white shadow" against the black background that pops up when an input turns off, or when you switch inputs. It is in several spots on the TV.

I tried to capture a pic using my handheld camera, but it was shaky due to the exposure time. I have posted the pics here>

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_02_15?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_02_15?feat=directlink


Does anyone know what might be the problem?

I am going to try and take better pics and send them to the repair company.

Sunil

Okay, just to update:

For the last 4 days, the "input source" switching on its own has not happened. Also, I looked up how to enter the "service menu" and found that the set was indeed in "Shop Mode" and disabled it. So the "Dynamic" and "light effect" reverting has stopped as well. So far, everything seems to be running normal.

Hopefully, this problem has finally come to an end. Although, I'm worried I may be getting ahead of myself.

Honestly, thanks again for the help.

So how do you get into the service menu? Is there any useful info in there like remaining life of the bulb or any other neat stuff?:)

So how do you get into the service menu? Is there any useful info in there like remaining life of the bulb or any other neat stuff?:)

With the set off, press Mute-1-8-2-Power in a quick succession. It's a but tricky but if done correctly, the TV will power on into "Service Mode".

You can see lots of info such as Lamp Life/Reset and other options that I dare not touch. However, I found the "shop mode" enabled in this menu and changed that.

So to get out of the service menu you just power the set off then back on? Yea, I"m being careful here about looking in there. :D

If you go in to the service menu doesnt it reset all of your settings back to factory?

Also is there any reason to Update the Firm Ware.

Yep. I cant remember where i read it but, the instructions were to "not" shut it off so soon after going into service menu. I don't why or what would happen though so my guess is as good as yours. But my problems were solved in the service menu.

If you go in to the service menu doesnt it reset all of your settings back to factory?

Also is there any reason to Update the Firm Ware.

No. But you'll find the option to reset back to factory settings in the service menu but it does not do it automatically.

Don't know about the firmware thing. Updated shortly after purchase but I did not notice anything different.

Well i checked out the service menu today. I wanted to see how many hours I have on the lamp. I left the menu up for about ten minutes, then shut off the set for about fifteen. When I turned it back on it did revert to all factory settings. Not to big of a deal for me, I needed to recalibrate anyway. It had been a while. But if anyone wants to look, you may want to write down your settings first. YMMV. :)

You can also just go to Menu - Settings and select Plug & Play to turn off shop mode. Source must be antenna to enable Plug & Play function.

After the slow loss of about 1/3 of the brightness over the last few weeks, I deceided to have my bulb replaced. (Made it 3 1/2 years and 12,155 hours according to the service menu!)
No problem at all changing the bulb, took 5 minutes and the set looks awesome again! Hope this bulb lasts as long as the old one (which I kept for an emergency spare).
Tech who replaced it said he thought it lasted so long since I keep my brightness and contrast on the low side (I use a calibration disc and have always been happy with the settings it gives me). Another good reason to stay away from the dreaded "dynamic" mode!! I still love this set! :):D

You can also just go to Menu - Settings and select Plug & Play to turn off shop mode. Source must be antenna to enable Plug & Play function.

Thanks for that but when going into MENU, the Plug & Play option is darkened. There's no way to access it.

My set is on the Fritz again. Shop Mode is re-enabled and the set constantly switches the source inputs on it's own. I've reset the TV and disabled Shop Mode many times only for the problem to revert itself days later. It's really annoying.

I'm not calling Samsung. I have a feeling it wouldn't do much good being that I'm out of warranty. I'm open to any help if it means a sure fix (and I really appreciate all of the help here!), but as soon as i can, I'm buying a new set and staying away from DLP. Buying a DLP was a huge mistake. I love the picture, but there are too many problems that involve constant parts/bulb replacements and it all becomes a hobby in the end. I can't remember the exact amount I've spent on buying this TV but I do know it was expensive - So I kinda feel ripped off cause I didn't have it too long (2-3 years) and the money spent to Diagnose/Repair it all can better be used on buying a better set. Sucks! I really liked this TV.

Again, Thank You All for the Help. Really appreciated.

Thanks for that but when going into MENU, the Plug & Play option is darkened. There's no way to access it.

Did you select TV (antenna) as input source before going into the menu for Plug & Play?

Did you select TV (antenna) as input source before going into the menu for Plug & Play?

Oh ok I see. I just switched to the "cable" source and was finally able to access Plug & Play in the Menu Screen. I'm such a bonehead. Been disabling Shop Mode the hard way this whole time. Lol

Thanks a lot for that.

A couple weeks after having the lamp replaced, my set started getting the dreaded white dot/dead pixel disease. At first just one or two, but then about one additional one just about everyday.
A quick call to Best Buy from my wife and two days later I am back in business. Repair took about 30 minutes and went very smoothly. Everything like new again. And am I oh so happy I bought the 4 year extended warranty from Best Buy. Between the lamp and the DLP chip the warranty has paid for itself in my opinion. And I still have 4 months left on it. Still very happy with the picture quality of this tv. :)

All:

Samsung repaired my white dot issue out of warranty as a one time courtesy repair. However, a few days later, we noticed a "white shadow" against the black background that pops up when an input turns off, or when you switch inputs. It is in several spots on the TV.

Does anyone know what might be the problem?

I am going to try and take better pics and send them to the repair company.

Sunil

I got better pics, but I have 2 distinct issues (all inputs)
1. Black smudges across the bottom on white backgorund
2. White shadows all over on black background.

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_04_18SamsungDLPHLT6176?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_04_18SamsungDLPHLT6176?feat=directlink

The #1 issue has been going on for some time, it's getting worse. The #2 issue started after the white dot thing was repaired.

Any idea what this might be?

Sunil

I got better pics, but I have 2 distinct issues (all inputs)
1. Black smudges across the bottom on white backgorund
2. White shadows all over on black background.

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_04_18SamsungDLPHLT6176?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_04_18SamsungDLPHLT6176?feat=directlink

The #1 issue has been going on for some time, it's getting worse. The #2 issue started after the white dot thing was repaired.

Any idea what this might be?

Sunil

As far as #2 goes (white smudge/shadow on black background) I can offer this:
After my DLP chip was replaced to fix the "white dot" issue, I (ok, my wife) noticed the faint white smudge showing mostly on the right half of the screen when the background is dark or black. It's not a major thing at this stage and only noticeable if you are on the lookout for it. But since it was not there until the DLP chip was changed we are attributing it to a faulty replacement chip. My repair guy agrees and has ordered another chip that should be installed next week. I'll post again when I have an update on it.

Ok, I guess that's that. All was good for a about a week and just now while watching, Shop Mode returns with a vengeance! The dynamic screen setting returns and now the menu would pop on and off continuously. I have to unplug the set as there's no response from the remote or the power button on the side of the tv. This is really sad. I can't believe there aren't many people with this problem. I guess I have the worse luck.

I will call samsung and see what they tell me. But I have a feeling that the solution will be costly, and temporary as I've been noticing throughout this thread. It doesn't sound like it's worth it. I'll update if samsung tells me something good but if not I guess I have no choice but to take the loss. There are better sets out there and it's just not really worth the aggravation.

Like I said, I really wanted to keep this TV and I'm not bashing it. I guess i just have a bad one. I wish you all the best and may you all find an easy solution for any problem you may have with this set. Thanks again.

Any thoughts on this problem? Wife turned it on this morning and this is all we saw. No issues previously.

Page 16 of the HL-T6187S Owner's Manual shows how to connect my PC to my TV using an HDMI/DVI cable:
1) Connect a HDMI/DVI Cable between the HDMI3/DVI IN jack on the TV and the PC output jack on your computer.
2) Connect a 1Stereo/2RCA Cable between the DVI IN [L-AUDIO-R] jack on the TV and the Audio Out jack of the sound card on your computer.

If I do this, can I then play movies downloaded from Amazon and Blockbuster on my TV?

After downloading, will movies play "automatically"?

If not, how can I do that... what SW or other devices do I need?

My normal TV sources are a Comcast DVR and a Pioneer DV-420V DVD player.

Thanks from a clueless TV owner! :confused:

I have 61 Inch version of this tv, is it able to play 3d Movies? if so what would I need?

I have 61 Inch version of this tv, is it able to play 3d Movies? if so what would I need?

Samsung does claim that this model is 3D capable. I believe it requires some sort of external emitter box which communicates with active shutter glasses.
Funny thing is, I tried my darndest to get Samsung to give me more info on what exactly is needed and where I could get it (if I deceided to). They have never responded to any inquiry I have sent them. Oh well. :(

Samsung does claim that this model is 3D capable. I believe it requires some sort of external emitter box which communicates with active shutter glasses.
Funny thing is, I tried my darndest to get Samsung to give me more info on what exactly is needed and where I could get it (if I deceided to). They have never responded to any inquiry I have sent them. Oh well. :(

Our sets only support the obsolete "checkerboard" 3D transmission format. A few Panasonic 3D Blu-ray players can output in this format.

To work with any 3D Blu-ray player or cable or satellite box or game console that has 3D, you can get the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000S 3D converter kit for Samsung 3D ready TVs, it comes with two pair of glasses and a special model of the 3DA-1 adapter.

If you already have DLP-Link 3D glasses or IR DLP 3D glasses and an emitter, you can use an older Mitsubishi 3DA-1 3D adapter that has a 2010 manufacturing date. Then, use the procedure in the following thread to put the adapter in unrestricted mode.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20582533#post20582533

So I would need glasses for the DLP and Diffrent ones for Plasma and LCD? Man this gets to be alot of money.

All:

Samsung repaired my white dot issue out of warranty as a one time courtesy repair. However, a few days later, we noticed a "white shadow" against the black background that pops up when an input turns off, or when you switch inputs. It is in several spots on the TV.

I tried to capture a pic using my handheld camera, but it was shaky due to the exposure time. I have posted the pics here>

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_02_15?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/TheSahaiFamily/2011_02_15?feat=directlink


Does anyone know what might be the problem?

I am going to try and take better pics and send them to the repair company.

Sunil


My TV has done that since the first day I bought it! Originally that "pill" shape was only in one spot, and only visible on a dark scene, so we lived with it. After the repair those spots are EVERYWHERE and much smaller. It changes size like an aperture is opening/closing.

Hi everyone.

I have a bit of a detailed question, and I'm hoping some of the DIY/Tweaker types have an answer for me.

I own a HLT5076SX - the 1080P slim chassis (circa 2007) that I bought as a floor model from Circuit City.

My dad gave me his HLR5067WAX because it kept "shutting off." I had replaced the lamp in it approximately 2 years ago, and discovered that I'd put the cover back on incorrectly with the safety switch in the wrong position. When the cover heats up it trips the protection circuit and shuts the TV off. After that, it would only periodically shut down. He bought a new set and said I could take the old one. I hooked it up and the picture is very, very dim. So, once again I am going to replace the lamp.

As for my HLT5067SX, I love the set. However, I encountered the dreaded white dot issue. A few calls and Samsung sent someone out free of charge to replace the DMD board. I noticed after the repair that my lighter colors were EXTREMELY saturated. So much so that if you were looking at a light area there was no detail at all. Yellows were really bad (this was during football season, to put it in perspective, the Green Bay Packers' helmets looked like yellow blobs.) Everything else was really, really crisp. I thought that maybe there was a burn-in cycle or time frame and that the issue would clear up. It did, to a degree, but is still unacceptable 10 months later. Another side effect is that when the screen is black with just the lamp on there is what appears to be a speckled pattern. Almost like sunshine through a canopy of leaves. When the TV goes to a brighter scene these spots will increase in size and then disappear as the scene comes to full brightness.

**edit** - see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20324018#post20324018 for pictures.

After all this lengthy explanation, my question comes down to this -

Are there common parts between these two sets? For instance, could I swap the color wheel from his set into mine? Etc.

I appreciate any help. I also posted this in the HLR thread.

nice to see this thread still going. Just thought I'd check in.

so far I am still on the original lamp and I bought this TV the week they came out. I have to say that I am really happy with it. I did have some minor alignment issues that I cured with a small non visible shim under the right side. Also had the dust on DLP convex mirror thing I made a thread about. I will probably clean this again at some point, but the PQ is still great and newer TVs don't seem to be much better.

good luck to all of those with problems and I hope it works out.

I have come across an interesting situation. I am visiting my parents house and noticed that the color on their HLT5675S is very off, almost has a "blotchy" look to it. They said they have changed the lamp a few times and that told me something was off since they dont watch it enough to warrant a few lamp changes. After some research I thought it could be a color wheel problem. I bought one online and installed it today. Was pretty simple, didnt take too long.

It did fix the coloring issue, however now there is a solid black bar about an inch wide on the right hand side of the screen, I have no idea how to fix this problem. Its as if the lamp has shifted position to the left, for example, instead of displaying "HDMI" it only displays "DMI" with a little bit of the H being on screen.

I went through the menus and couldnt find any sort of screen positioning setup so then I tried the service menu and that is displayed too far off the screen for me to know what it says so I left that alone. I then took apart the tv again and saw a small dial near the display lens of sorts. So I mess with that dial a bit and learned two things: 1. If i rotate the dial far one way I can minimize the black line, however things like "HDMI" are now completely off the screen. So I rotate it the other way and am able to get the words "HDMI" to dislpay fully...however the black line then gets larger. Very strange. After numerous hours of just fiddling around I am on the verge of giving up.

I know this is a very strange circumstance on an older tv, but does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Thank you for your help!

Well it seems like my DLP (HLT5076S) has pulled a "Samsung". :( I can see why they stopped making them.

So here's my situation:

Plug in the tv and it immediately tries to start up (no standby). Lamp lights up, TV chimes, color wheel starts, etc. but I get no picture. The lamp light just sits and blinks for about 30 secs then stops. The TV seems to be receiving signals from the remote (LED on the tv blinks if I mash buttons on the remote). Occationally, I can get the TV to start properly if I keep unplugging the power but now that doesn't work either.

I've read that since it's not going into standby mode first should be a clue as to the culprit but I'm at a loss as to what part is defective. I've just replaced the lamp too so I know that it's not that.

Any ideas guys?
TIA

It sounds as if there might be something going on with your power supply. Now, if that's officially what's wrong I don't know. However, in my experience with electronics, a power related issue is usually going to be traced back to the supply or to some form of controller for that supply.




Well it seems like my DLP (HLT5076S) has pulled a "Samsung". :( I can see why they stopped making them.

So here's my situation:

Plug in the tv and it immediately tries to start up (no standby). Lamp lights up, TV chimes, color wheel starts, etc. but I get no picture. The lamp light just sits and blinks for about 30 secs then stops. The TV seems to be receiving signals from the remote (LED on the tv blinks if I mash buttons on the remote). Occationally, I can get the TV to start properly if I keep unplugging the power but now that doesn't work either.

I've read that since it's not going into standby mode first should be a clue as to the culprit but I'm at a loss as to what part is defective. I've just replaced the lamp too so I know that it's not that.

Any ideas guys?
TIA

We recently had to get Sears to fix our not quite three years old Samsung HLT-5676s DLP TV due to it having a number of white dots on the screen. Samsung said it was not part of the recalled sets due to defective DLP chips so the repair cost us almost $600.00

After the set was repaired and re calibrated, we opted to get a one-year maintenance agreement with Sears so any future repairs will be covered at no cost since the lamp should be up for replacement in the near future.

The TV still produces great-looking pictures and we still think it was a good buy especially since we got it on sale.

Just picked one of these up & wondering if black level can be improved & picture seems a little soft. I have tried a couple of settings posted here already.

I searched in this thread and this problem comes up a couple times, but there are no replies. So I figure I'll ask again.

I have a 6176S and after about 2 minutes I start seeing a pulsing in the brightness. It's very noticeable while sitting on the PS3 store home page, or the Comcast guide page (both with bright blue backgrounds). The whites turn yellowish to bright white.

There sounds like a cycling of a fan or something behind, but I can't tell where the noise is specifically coming from. I have replaced the bulb (with enclosure) and the color wheel and also have blown out a lot of dust that was inside.

I'm not sure where to go next. I'd like to fix it on my own, since I'm sure a tech will cost me an arm and a leg. Could this be a ballast going? Fan not cooling it down properly and it is overheating?

It's truly not the end of the world, but it's really annoying.

Thanks

-mark

Hi everyone.

Seems these sets are getting old, but I've had good luck with my HT-L 5076SX/XAA. I've had it since October of 2007 but recently the brightness dimmed & is almost gone. I've ordered a new Philips lamp (BP96-01795A) that should arrive this Tuesday. My question is do I need to reset the "hours used" in the service menu? I don't see any warning messages but it seems I have read that somewhere.

Hi everyone.

Seems these sets are getting old, but I've had good luck with my HT-L 5076SX/XAA. I've had it since October of 2007 but recently the brightness dimmed & is almost gone. I've ordered a new Philips lamp (BP96-01795A) that should arrive this Tuesday. My question is do I need to reset the "hours used" in the service menu? I don't see any warning messages but it seems I have read that somewhere.

Sure sounds like you need that new lamp to me! I have the 56" version of this set and have had some issues (luckily all covered under warranty). But overall I really love this tv. Something about rear projection just looks better to me than all but the very high end lcd or plasmas.
When I had my lamp replaced I went in to the service menu and reset the hours for the bulb to zero. But be warned: Every time I have ever gone into the service menu for any reason, all custom settings seem to revert back to factory defaults. So you may want to be safe and write down your settings (color, tint, contrast, etc) before going in there.
I am sure your tv will be like new again after the new lamp gets put in. Good Luck!

Thanks for the post. I was concerned it was too old & no one would respond. :)

I guess it's been getting gradually darker for some time but so gradual that we didn't notice it. But, in the last week or so it was unmistakeable. It's been a great set & well worth $100 to replace the lamp.

I haven't needed to modified anything in the service menu until now. So, I press Mute followed by 1, 8, 2, Power then find & zero the lamp hours or just Reset everything? Or, is this even needed if I'm not concerned how many hours it reads?

Thanks again!

I still love this set, it is not my everyday tv, it is more of a movie night TV along with my gaming TV, I prob only use it about 20 HRS a Month, I don't have many hours on it. I have Sammy Plasmas and Lcd's and this still to me has the best pic. I know I didn't answer your question.

I know I got a free replacment bulb from circuit city when mine went doesn't look like ill get that now.

... I know I didn't answer your question...

That's OK.:D

It is our everyday set. The only complaint I had was the sets geometry which I documented at this forum. The screen is so thin that it bows outward (parabolic instead of flat) which causes geometry the mid-portion of the screen to sag or curve downward. Screen menus that should have straight lines across the middle, curved downward. I had the set replaced about 4 times until I got one that was acceptable.

But, I cannot complain about the picture quality. The images are razor sharp & outstanding color. It's a keeper into something else more $$$ goes bad!

I had the same problem Circuit city brought 3 or 4 diffrent sets to my house each one worse, I ended up keeping my original set and had a guy come under warranty and he adjusted the back of the set using the screws and the Picture ended up being perfectly flat, in till I relocated the Tv then it went off again.

Thanks for the post. I was concerned it was too old & no one would respond. :)

I guess it's been getting gradually darker for some time but so gradual that we didn't notice it. But, in the last week or so it was unmistakeable. It's been a great set & well worth $100 to replace the lamp.

I haven't needed to modified anything in the service menu until now. So, I press Mute followed by 1, 8, 2, Power then find & zero the lamp hours or just Reset everything? Or, is this even needed if I'm not concerned how many hours it reads?

Thanks again!

You do not need to reset the hours in the service menu unless you want to.

Thanks Jeff

Installed the new lamp & all I can say is WOW, what a difference! Just off hand I'd say that the brightness has been dimming for awhile but so gradual we didn't notice.

And what an easy install. The 50" model installs by removing one screw on the left side (when facing the front) to remove the access door, then flipping a spring clip downward that locks the lamp in place. Less that 2 minutes & done. Like a new set now. :D

How much did it cost for the lamp? and where did you get it? Is it the OEM lamp?

Installed the new lamp & all I can say is WOW, what a difference! Just off hand I'd say that the brightness has been dimming for awhile but so gradual we didn't notice. :D

Same here. Since the lamp never completely died we never really noticed the slight dimming over time. We had been running the brightness setting up around 80-90. With the new one it runs around 60-65. (I use a calibration disc for ballpark settings, then tweek to personal preference). :D

How much did it cost for the lamp? and where did you get it? Is it the OEM lamp?

$116 from Newegg made by Philips who is the original lamp maker & the housing is exact.

Same here. Since the lamp never completely died we never really noticed the slight dimming over time. We had been running the brightness setting up around 80-90. With the new one it runs around 60-65. (I use a calibration disc for ballpark settings, then tweek to personal preference). :D

Yeah, I'm into calibration, too. At the moment I have the brightness & contrast at 50 & Warm2. I should get the calibration disc out to tweak it in but thought it wise to allow the new lamp some break-in time.

I teased my wife last night that she'd need sunglasses. ;)