I have a Pioneer Elite PRO-107 55" RPTV that I purchased 13 years ago. It has given me great service and has always had an outstanding picture. For this reason, it saddened me when, recently, the RED CRT would shut off momentarily and then, shortly thereafter, come back on. This happened for a few weeks with more increasing regularity. I found that if I used the "whack" technique and gave the CRT a light tap with a wooden pole that it would turn on/operate for awhile but then the symptom would reoccur - once again, with more frquency and the temporary cure would last for a shorter and shorter period. Now, the red CRT will not seem to operate no matter what I do. I have tapped the CRT, unplugged the PC board at the base of the tube (driver board?) and replugged to ensure a good connection, all to no avail.

I have read elsewhere that switching the blue PC (driver?) board, temporarily, onto the bottom of the RED CRT will enable one to troubleshoot whether the problem lies in the circuitry, or the CRT tube itself. Does this sound feasible as a manner of localizing the problem? And, if so, is a replacement CRT easy to obtain and/or reasonable in cost if the tube is indeed the problem? What caveats are involved in the replacement procedure, etc.? I am very handy with electronics!

The picture, as I stated earlier, was excellent before the current problem (still is, in fact, it's just green :D ) and I have always loved this set. However, the set is probably nearing the end of its useful life (13 years old) and is SD (another minus). These facts make me question the feasibility of repairing the unit. I am weighing the option of repair vs. purchasing a new Panasonic TH-50PH9UK PLASMA DISPLAY monitor, though I'd rather opt for an inexpensive repair at this time.

Oh, I should also mention that another reason for not wanting (at this time) to replace the unit, unless it's necessary, is that the unit is built into a custom oak media room which will, obviously, need modified for any NEW unit :(


Can anyone help with any insight/info regarding this problem? Thanks very much, in advance, to anyone who takes the time to answer - I appreciate your help!

FredF

If this were an HD set, I'd be more willing to get it fixed, esp if the PQ makes you happy.

Not being HD, I'd say it's upgrade time (for TV and media room).

Doubtful any repair on a set this old would be inexpensive--depending on your definition of "inexpensive", of course.

Most repair techs will come out and at least give you an idea of what you are looking at, $$-wise. Obviously, it helps if said tech really knows his stuff.

Should just cost the price of a service call to get a diagnosis.

Wish this was more helpful.

If this were an HD set, I'd be more willing to get it fixed, esp if the PQ makes you happy.

Not being HD, I'd say it's upgrade time (for TV and media room).

Doubtful any repair on a set this old would be inexpensive--depending on your definition of "inexpensive", of course.

Most repair techs will come out and at least give you an idea of what you are looking at, $$-wise. Obviously, it helps if said tech really knows his stuff.

Should just cost the price of a service call to get a diagnosis.

Wish this was more helpful.


Hi jwebb1970
Thanks for your thoughts. As my orig post stated, I am pretty much in accord with your sentiments on fixing (age of TV/SD vs. HD. etc) if it's inexpensive to do so. My conundrum, however, is that I would like to fix the set if the cost of repair is, oh ....... let's say $150 or less and I get another year of service from it. :) So, my thought process on making this determination is the following:

How do I determine if the red CRT is bad (I've removed the back of the set and done a visual on it - no leaks from any of the CRTs) or the circuitry that controls it. I mentioned, in my post, switching the small pc board attached to the neck of the CRT to see if a different (driver?) board would light the red CRT and/or the red (driver?) board would light the blue CRT, for example, as a means of localizing the problem.

I do not know if this is feasible or could damage something. I am looking for guidance from anyone here. I should think that, as a means of troubleshooting a bad CRT, either it is feasible or not. I have to believe that I am not the only one who has thought of this means to trouble shoot a faulty(?) CRT. ;) My thoughts regarding this are: if the CRT is bad - toss the set. On the other hand, if the circuitry is found to be at fault - schedule a service tech to check it out. Hopefully, the repair could be done for $100-150.

Anyone have any further thoughts? I'd like to make a decision one way or the other ................................ these green people (on my TV) are getting to me :eek:

FredF

Yes, swapping the crt board(s) temporarily is ok and useful as a troubleshooting technique. Because you say tapping on the crt makes it change- Most likely it is the red crt, and that is over $300 parts and $300 labor. Now, if it is the just the crt board you are looking at aobut $200 labor & less than $100 parts, but it's also possible (but unlikely) could be jungle chip/driver/signal pcb...

Hammer

Pioneers are rife with cold solder joint problems, but I have not seen too many on the 107s. Lots on the SD-P series, tho, which was relatively concurrent with the PRO 107. And of course lots on the PS boards of the 510/610/710 HDready series, there's a thread here on AVS dedicated to that one.

You say you prod the CRT itself? Or by CRT do you mean the set itself?

I have never seen a CRT itself have a cold solder joint, or any other kind of intermittency in its ops. The boards that preceed it yes; the actual CRT, no.

Your way of testing is a good one, but be sure your set is OFF - master switch off/preferably unit unplugged - before you do any plugging/unplugging of the CRT socket boards.

Before doing anything else, I would poke the boards around the CRT first with something very NON conductive - be careful, this has to be done while it's on and running - to see where this cold solder joint will be.

I am sure all it is, is a cold solder joint on one of your boards. If so, finding it - or at least its area and resoldering its area - should be fairly straightforward for a seasoned tech. Would be for me, anyway.

Shouldn't cost you too much. I am sure the red gun is fine, unless you do that test and find otherwise.


Then clean your optics, down to the CRT coolant covers, and discover how dazzling your CRTs still are, in there.

And/or have it calibrated to boot, once you see how much life she still has in her.


Mr Bob

Yes, swapping the crt board(s) temporarily is ok and useful as a troubleshooting technique. Because you say tapping on the crt makes it change- Most likely it is the red crt, and that is over $300 parts and $300 labor. Now, if it is the just the crt board you are looking at aobut $200 labor & less than $100 parts, but it's also possible (but unlikely) could be jungle chip/driver/signal pcb...

Hammer


Hammer,
Thanks for your advice re: switching the crt boards. As a result, I have found that the red CRT is fine and, thus, the driver circuitry is the culprit. Short of searching for any obvious visual clues to reveal the faulty component, can you suggest any particular thing/components to check/test before I get into a more costly repair? Or, should I just bite the bullet and call in a repairman?

Any advice is appreciated!

FredF

Hammer,
Thanks for your advice re: switching the crt boards. As a result, I have found that the red CRT is fine and, thus, the driver circuitry is the culprit. Short of searching for any obvious visual clues to reveal the faulty component, can you suggest any particular thing/components to check/test before I get into a more costly repair? Or, should I just bite the bullet and call in a repairman?

Any advice is appreciated!

FredF


See my post above, which was obviously being written at the same time as yours!


Mr Bob

Pioneers are rife with cold solder joint problems, but I have not seen too many on the 107s. Lots on the SD-P series, tho, which was relatively concurrent with the PRO 107. And of course lots on the PS boards of the 510/610/710 HDready series, there's a thread here on AVS dedicated to that one.

You say you prod the CRT itself? Or by CRT do you mean the set itself?

I have never seen a CRT itself have a cold solder joint, or any other kind of intermittency in its ops. The boards that preceed it yes; the actual CRT, no.

Your way of testing is a good one, but be sure your set is OFF - master switch off/preferably unit unplugged - before you do any plugging/unplugging of the CRT socket boards.

Before doing anything else, I would poke the boards around the CRT first with something very NON conductive - be careful, this has to be done while it's on and running - to see where this cold solder joint will be.

I am sure all it is, is a cold solder joint on one of your boards. If so, finding it - or at least its area and resoldering its area - should be fairly straightforward for a seasoned tech. Would be for me, anyway.

Shouldn't cost you too much. I am sure the red gun is fine, unless you do that test and find otherwise.


Then clean your optics, down to the CRT coolant covers, and discover how dazzling your CRTs still are, in there.

And/or have it calibrated to boot, once you see how much life she still has in her.


Mr Bob


Mr. Bob,
Thank you for your reply. As I have replied to Hammer, I have found the culprit to be the circuit board that drives the red CRT. Per your suggestion, I will look for any cold solder joints that I can find, and resolder any that might be questionable. Do I need to look only on the driver ecb or can the fault be on the PS board, as well? Rest assured, if I am successful in repairing the problem, I will be salivating to see the improvement after cleaning the optics! :)

FredF

Mr. Bob,
Thank you for your reply. As I have replied to Hammer, I have found the culprit to be the circuit board that drives the red CRT. Per your suggestion, I will look for any cold solder joints that I can find, and resolder any that might be questionable. Do I need to look only on the driver ecb or can the fault be on the PS board, as well? Rest assured, if I am successful in repairing the problem, I will be salivating to see the improvement after cleaning the optics! :)

FredF


It won't be on the PS board, if that board is strictly for PS purposes, as it is on the 510/610/710 series.

I thought you said above that the culprit was "the circuit board that drives the red CRT". If you know it to be that board, you needn't look anywhere else.

If it's just that board, which is relatively small, just resolder the whole thing. If one part of it has cold solder joints, other parts of it may fail in the future if you don't.

Just resolder the whole CRT socket board now, to guard against that happening. You needn't disconnect anything on it, I would think. Just free it up, turn it upside down and do the work, with the set unplugged.


Mr Bob

I'm going after that little rascal now! Will advise of the results ... thanks

FredF

:D Wahoooo!

Just returned from the soldering wars. Found one or two questionable solder joints (with 10x diopters strapped on) and resoldered them. Voilà ... success!!!!

You were correct, Mr. Bob, cold solder joints were the culprit (after 13 years). :) Now onto the challenging task of CLEANING THE OPTICS. I believe the lenses on this unit are glass vs. plastic so that should make it safer. I plan on blowing off the crud layer with canned air, then, dampening a soft cloth to clean the lenses. Do I just clean the front/top of the lenses or need I be more thorough than this? I assume there is great danger in attempting to clean the front surface mirror and this should not be done. Can you steer me in the right direction if I'm going astray?

Thanks for all the help - I'm a happy camper. Now I can leisurely pick out a new HD plasma instead of being in a panic mode. Thanks all! :D

FredF

:D Wahoooo!

Just returned from the soldering wars. Found one or two questionable solder joints (with 10x diopters strapped on) and resoldered them. Voilà ... success!!!!

You were correct, Mr. Bob, cold solder joints were the culprit (after 13 years). :) Now onto the challenging task of CLEANING THE OPTICS. I believe the lenses on this unit are glass vs. plastic so that should make it safer. I plan on blowing off the crud layer with canned air, then, dampening a soft cloth to clean the lenses. Do I just clean the front/top of the lenses or need I be more thorough than this? I assume there is great danger in attempting to clean the front surface mirror and this should not be done. Can you steer me in the right direction if I'm going astray?

Thanks for all the help - I'm a happy camper. Now I can leisurely pick out a new HD plasma instead of being in a panic mode. Thanks all! :D

FredF


Please feel free to sign up for a phone consultation if you wish this from the horse's mouth. Optics are irreplaceable on that old a unit, you must not do the wrong things or the damage will be permanent.

Feel free to search out the proper methods, or consult with me. My methods are not necessarily on the beaten path, so I don't do any advice of this nature on the boards. I only do it personally, mano a mano, where I can retain some sort of control over the events at hand.

My methods are tried and true, tho, and have been employed in all my calibrations for over 20 years, with breathtaking results to show for it at all times. Before I started doing calibrations, nobody even knew optics cleaning was necessary on CRT RPTVs.

You can look on my website to see why it IS necessary - critically so, I might add.

Then contact me directly, to find out exactly how to do it safely and completely.


Mr Bob