Would it be worthwhile to have a separate thread dedicated to listing what people are using for their basic RS1 settings? This is only partly covered in the RS1 tweak thread, which has some very interesting discussions and debates but is not the easiest to navigate for new RS1 owners who simply want to try out different settings and find out what others have found most effective.

It would also be useful to list separate settings for different sources--HD, HD discs (blu ray, HD DVD), and SD DVDs, etc.

It won't do much good to post settings. As each PJ is different as is your source components. I remember someone else doing this with another PJ and people posted their settings after they had their unit ISF calibrated.

Everyone got real excited by thinking they could just dial-in the numbers and bada-boom, free ISF calibration. Well, when guys did that, they all had different results. Mine looks green, mine looks blue. It's a great concept, but with the differences in units and the color of lamps, it just doesn't work in real life.

Like Ernie says, while this isnt going to be anywhere near an exact science because of unit and setup variance, ill give you my tweaks and logic anyways in case some of that logic might have some application to someone else.

Setup: HD1, 128" Carada BW 2.35, Anthem AVM50, Panamorph UH380 ... ok, but not very good light control .. PJ lens 14' (~1.8x) from screen

Low lamp, middle color setting.

Color - 20 to - 15. Tames down the greens and reds. Some dont like this at all, but several others use similar numbers. To me, makes the greens look less "neonish" and seems to bring the colors in line to more realistic numbers. When others have posted comparison screenshots of saturated and calibrated colors this adjustment makes the image look more like the latter.

Gamma C and brightness - 3. This gamma mode brings out more detail
and makes the image look sharper, to me. It does also seem to elevate the black level and make grain type noise look more visible. The brightness adjustment appears to bring the black level back down to a normal gamma level and does away with all the additionally visible grain from going to gamma c while keeping a lot of the additional detail and sharpness gained.

It won't do much good to post settings. As each PJ is different as is your source components. I remember someone else doing this with another PJ and people posted their settings after they had their unit ISF calibrated.

Everyone got real excited by thinking they could just dial-in the numbers and bada-boom, free ISF calibration. Well, when guys did that, they all had different results. Mine looks green, mine looks blue. It's a great concept, but with the differences in units and the color of lamps, it just doesn't work in real life.

I agree that this is certainly not like a free ISF calibration, but nevertheless think this is worthwhile based on my experience so far. I posted on another thread that I was having very disappointing results with SD DVDs and someone responded by posting their SD DVD-specific settings--and while perhaps not perfectly transferable it did make a big difference.

I finally got my RS1 kicking last night. It was delivered Tuesday. Never will I ever use ground ship delivery - had to endure the entire week…as if the wait felt more like 6 months. Anyhow, I read using Natural, Middle Temp and Normal Gamma settings were starting points close to grayscale; however, in my case though, b/c I was temporarily throwing the image off an Optoma Graywolf screen (since I don’t have a dedicated one yet), I found getting more details out of using Cinema, Mid Temp and Gamma A without too much expense in elevated blacks. Also played with User 1 settings as it seems to offer more flexibility in color adjustments.

Overall though, most observations using with the gray screen were quite positive. As most of you already know, this screen has the same characteristics as the High Power with some drawbacks - like sparklies (none from my viewing angle) and annoying textures, visible even beyond 2.75 SW. Therefore, this screen is definitely not for the RS-1; however, if you look past these two quirks, I think it offers some nice benefits. Compared to my white wall, it delivered better blacks and details, some DLP pop :) , and great uniformity. I also hardly noticed the bright cornering issues which was very visible when projected on the wall. Also veil-looking images suffered from LCDs were no longer there on this screen. I really want to go with High Power but I feel I could get more out of a High Power gray screen – only if it exists (sigh).

I finally got my RS1 kicking last night. It was delivered Tuesday. Never will I ever use ground ship delivery - had to endure the entire week…as if the wait felt more like 6 months. Anyhow, I read using Natural, Middle Temp and Normal Gamma settings were starting points close to grayscale; however, in my case though, b/c I was temporarily throwing the image off an Optoma Graywolf screen (since I don’t have a dedicated one yet), I found getting more details out of using Cinema, Mid Temp and Gamma A without too much expense in elevated blacks. Also played with User 1 settings as it seems to offer more flexibility in color adjustments.

Overall though, most observations using with the gray screen were quite positive. As most of you already know, this screen has the same characteristics as the High Power with some drawbacks - like sparklies (none from my viewing angle) and annoying textures, visible even beyond 2.75 SW. Therefore, this screen is definitely not for the RS-1; however, if you look past these two quirks, I think it offers some nice benefits. Compared to my white wall, it delivered better blacks and details, some DLP pop :) , and great uniformity. I also hardly noticed the bright cornering issues which was very visible when projected on the wall. Also veil-looking images suffered from LCDs were no longer there on this screen. I really want to go with High Power but I feel I could get more out of a High Power gray screen – only if it exists (sigh).

At the moment I am also using the same Optoma graywolf screen you have--with the same pluses and minuses. I do see light corners, unfortunately. And like you, I have also contemplated going with a high power screen but wish a gray screen version existed...oh well.

At the moment I am also using the same Optoma graywolf screen you have--with the same pluses and minuses. I do see light corners, unfortunately. And like you, I have also contemplated going with a high power screen but wish a gray screen version existed...oh well.

Agree. The light corners are there but becoming lesser of an issue compared to using white screen material.

Gamma C and brightness - 3. This gamma mode brings out more detail
and makes the image look sharper, to me. It does also seem to elevate the black level and make grain type noise look more visible. The brightness adjustment appears to bring the black level back down to a normal gamma level and does away with all the additionally visible grain from going to gamma c while keeping a lot of the additional detail and sharpness gained.
I tried these settings on a few movies but much prefer my own settings (Normal Gamma, Middle Temperature, Brightness +1, Contrast -1).

I lose a lot of detail in dark areas with your settings, clearly seen with the earth globe and upcoming sun at the begining of Happy Feet for instance. I didn't see any benefit with the movies I tried. Which situations (movies/scenes) should I look at?

Mine is a Carada BW 100" 16:9, 10 feet from pj, reasonably good light control.

I used the the following settings,

Cinema mode
Color -5
Sharpness +1

As for Color temp, I used the RGB settings posted by lovingdvd at the beginning of this post.

R 0
G -32
B -55

I like this RGB setting compared to my default color temp of low and middle which gives me too much green.

FYI...Mark5 posted these RS1 settings on another thread specifically for SD DVDs (which I found helpful):

"Last night I had a lot of success calibrating specifically for SD DVD. Source was the Toshiba A1 upconverted to 1080i connected directly to the projector. Color temp Middle, Gamma B (I'm not posting in the calibration thread as I just did basic calibrations which don't seem to fit it with the typical discussions over there.)

I think there are two main reasons why the RS1 struggles with SD DVD. The most obvious one is that it is just so sharp and revealing that all the imperfections/artifacts show up more. De-focusing might work, but I've never liked that as tweaking method and I didn't want another reason to have to mess with the focus. I figured I would need to experiment with the sharpness and NR (noise reduction) controls and I did. But I'm going to come back to that later.

The second and even more important factor seems to be that SD just can't handle the RS1's amazing contrast level. A good example of this involves the incredibly bright highlights it produces. On HD material, they are mostly sharp and well defined, greatly contributing to the depth and pop of the image. On SD, however, the highlights tend to bloom out and become a blurry, undefined mess. I simply started turning the contrast control down and this effect just continued to improve. I went all the way to -30 and I actually wish it could go lower. Turning the contrast down this much required brightness to be recalibrated. Mine went down from -1 to -3. Amazingly, the image still had incredible pop and very bright highlights, but now it was smoother, more under control and artifacts were less visible.

But speaking of artifacts, there was still noticeable ringing to deal with (the main one that bothers me). I really wanted to like the NR function, as it actually can greatly reduce/eliminate ringing. But the price you pay is extremely "smoothed out" detail. It's almost like you're looking at things under water or through a haze. I tried compensating by turning up the sharpness, and for awhile I thought it was working, but I just didn't like the smoothed out look. I could find no compromise setting that did more good than harm, so I turned NR back to 0 and here's my rationale: There are lots of scenes where ringing is not visible and doesn't need correction, but nearly all scenes would suffer from the smoothing effect/loss of detail from using NR. Just a personal preference. Some people might like the smooth look. I would consider using NR to make a very bad transfer watchable (not that I would ever knowingly show one on the RS1!)

I wound up using the more traditional tweak of turning sharpness way down. I settled on -25, but -30 looked good too. This had the effect of softening the harsh edges and reducing the effect of the ringing slightly, but with very little loss of detail. Combined with the contrast/brightness calibration, the overall improvement was dramatic! A couple of days ago, I figured I would definitely have to replace all my favorite DVDs when HD versions became available. After what I started seeing last night, the decisions will at least be a little more difficult."

Ettepet, if you are losing detail with brightness -3 you might try -2. I havent really messed with the settings much with animated/CGI movies. Ill have to take a look at that.

The movies I have specifically monitored/compared it with are Batman Begins, Casino Royale, Matrix 1 and 2, Deja Vu, Eragon, Kingdom of Heaven, Chronicles of Riddick, and Superman Returns (to name a few.) All Blu-ray and HD versions, only.

Batman Begins was the first, and most extensive, one that i used. The prison cell scene at the very beginning when he is first visited by the guy who plays Obi-wans mentor in SW1. You can see a lot of grain, blacks, and detail gained there. Thats what I used to come up with my -3 setting.

If the A1 scales the same way the A2 does, a lot of those problems are the player. After using the new PS3 firmware for a few movies, going back to the A2 was a touch shocking. Lots of noise, plus the ringing that the A2 seems to apply with great emphasis. PS3 upscaling (and by extension I presume XA2 and BDP1200 and other assisted units) makes things look very good with the exception of increased image noise, especially in dark areas.

I still can't figure out what the RS-1's sharpness control does. I push it to +30 with soft titles and it does nothing substantial. I push it to -30 with sharp titles and it does nothing.

My settings, FYI, have settled to Cinema/Middle color, -10 color, -1 brightness, +1 contrast, Gamma B. Originally I had Gamma C with -1 brightness +0 contrast and -15 color, but I prefer a more pleasing image overall than the scientific pleasure of knowing I can see absolutely every level of brightness in the image, plus Gamma C seems to cause loss of shadow detail overall. All via HDMI input (1080i or 1080p depending on source).

Still it seems that every title needs its own settings. Some things demand brightness -4, others brightness 0. Good to know the PJ is better than the source material, even if that's a bit disappointing overall.

I agree with Ernie and Catdaddy.

That said, for entertainment purposes only, I provide the following:

With DVE, my settings were pretty close to perfect OOTB! I dropped the brightness setting down 1 notch, and reduced the color setting to -6, not because DVE said to, but to help tame the over saturation a bit.

Wasn't that entertaining?! ;)

Still it seems that every title needs its own settings. Some things demand brightness -4, others brightness 0. Good to know the PJ is better than the source material, even if that's a bit disappointing overall.

I agree that different settings should vary from source to source. Last night I took a glimpse of this black and white animated film, called Rennaisance, in HD-DVD. While I had my Brightness settings at 0, I had to toggle all the way down to -5 just to see the movie in its pure black and white form, instead of dark grays and white. My expectation was a bit high, especially with this particular film, and didn't see those grays coming in. There are some scenes though that show the full dynamic range of this unit and looked so impressive.

Another film I played last night was The Devil Wears Prada in blue disc and went to the chapter that showed the city lights in Paris. Unbelievable! It felt like looking outside from a hotel window in Champs-Elysees...

Has anyone tried using a standard dvd player over component, the zoom aspect ratio, and an anamorpic lens? Just wondering.

Best Regards,
Doug

I agree with Ernie and Catdaddy.

That said, for entertainment purposes only, I provide the following:

With DVE, my settings were pretty close to perfect OOTB! I dropped the brightness setting down 1 notch, and reduced the color setting to -6, not because DVE said to, but to help tame the over saturation a bit.

Wasn't that entertaining?! ;)


Thanks, Rob. Just curious: do you use different settings for SD DVDs? I found the OOTB setting amazing for HD, but very disappointing for SD DVDs without additional tweaking to smooth over the artifacts and other imperfections in the source material.

Thanks, Rob. Just curious: do you use different settings for SD DVDs? I found the OOTB setting amazing for HD, but very disappointing for SD DVDs without additional tweaking to smooth over the artifacts and other imperfections in the source material.


The DVE disc I used was the SD version. As I said, I did drop the brightness down a notch...not because DVE showed that I should....but because of what you mention: it seemed to help with reducing the noise/artifacts to a degree. The minus 1 setting has a bigger effect than you might think. In fact, I think the steps are too large and makes fine tuning somewhat difficult.

I just received my RS-1 last week, and have it up and running. At the moment, I am feeding it 1080i through the component, but I have just received (and am running tonight) my HDMI cables. So far, I have been pleased with what I have been able to get by using a "THX" certified DVD (using the "optimizer") to dial in my contrast and brightness settings. I don't have the numbers memorized, but I BELIEVE that I had to go up a notch or two (from standard) on the contrast and the black level was pretty darn close "as-is". I am using the "medium" color temperature with the Gamma setting to "off". I couldn't see a difference when switching to Gamma "A", and I didn't try the others, so I just kept it "off". On the color adjustment, I need to pull it down a bit, but the amount depends on the source. I found that with my cable HD box, I had to turn up my brightness and contrast settings above the levels that I settled on with the HD-DVD player. I have yet to dial in my PS3, as I was waiting until I had the HDMI cable run. There appears to be SO MANY different HDMI options with the PS3 (plus a couple in the projector to tweak) that I didn't bother spending any time dialing the PS3 in, as I knew it would be for nothing.
In general, the colors have to be pulled back with basically "all" sources. The cinema mode has "TOO MUCH" red unless you go in and put the color temperature the "middle". I am tweaking and saving specific user modes for each of my sources. I don't think that "anyone" will ever be able to provide a "specific" guideline for tweaking these projectors, as there are WAY too many variables.
One thing that I found interesting in the manual (and I have not tried it yet because my HDMI hasn't been used yet) and I don't seem to recall anyone mentioing was the "-7.5% Black" adjustment. I guess I will see this one for myself tonight, but I found the description in the manual to be a "little" confusing" as to what setting should be used...

Lee

For those who are concerned about settings for SD DVDs, Dazzer posted the following on another thread:

"also notice lots more "detail" including source artefacts in SD material and the JVC can be pretty ruthless if your using a high gain screen. For some SD material I simply set the Gennum DNR option to higher than the 0 default (range 0-30) in the image menu. The result are very good with most of the SD artefacts and grain being eliminated without any real loss of detail or softening unless you max out the setting. I also set "sharpness" at -12 on HD material as I find this the best balance to my eye."

Lee, you should be able to notice a degree of brightness change going from Gamma Off to A, especially when viewing darker scenes, bringing out a slightly more detail in Gamma A.

It can a be bit frustrating though fine-tuning the color settings. I ended up back with User 1 - pulling Green back to –50 with Red and Blue pulled back as well, just slightly. In the Offset controls, I have Green pulled back again halfway, followed by Red and slightly with Blue. So far, I viewed Casino Royale, Ghost Rider, and The Prestige – all blue discs which suffer from yellowish tints, and came up with a very acceptable setting. Going back to Natural default doesn’t look quite pleasing all of a sudden.

Don't forget that using the Offset control affects all of the image profiles. So, if you dial in a setting using User 1 or 2, then use the Offset control, it also affects Natural, Cinema and Dynamic.

Doug, I dont even have a component line up to my projector anymore but I can try to run component into my AVM50 and see if I can just pass through the signal.

Mike, when I reset to Natural the Offset controls defualted back to 0; however, leaving my Offset settings in User 1 untouched. I'll have to check it out tonight. But you are probably right - that's why the Natural didn't look the same anymore.

Doug, I dont even have a component line up to my projector anymore but I can try to run component into my AVM50 and see if I can just pass through the signal.

Thanks, but don't go to too much trouble.

I should have one before too much longer.

I was just wondering if someone had done this already. Kind of thinking about what gain and how wide I might be able to go for 2.35 CIH, if I do it.

I have a 96" wide HP and fabric to make a very wide SMX. I would have to go to SMX if I went over about 10 feet wide, so the extra lumens might be helpful.

I'll have time to test it out, though.

Best Regards,
Doug

Well, if it helps you I have a 10' wide Carada BW that it doesnt have any problems lighting up. So much so, that I am seriously considering, and am very likely to pull the trigger, on a Stewart Firehawk G3 2.35. My last media room had dark flat paint and navy blue carpeting in it but my new one is much more aesthetically pleasing that my wife and I are both reluctant to "darken" it.

If you are really interested in the 2.35 setup, and since you are in the Austin area, you might want to look at my Carada 128" 2.35 and maybe we can work out a deal. 8) That is if we dont start an Austin HT regular meet.

I'll have to see. I think everyone else has gotten used to the punch of the HP, so I have a feeling that I will be going with a 2.35 HP that is just wide enough to fit between my tower speakers.

Until I actually get a chance to see everything, though, all I can do is guess.

Is your Carada 128" wide or diagonal?

Best Regards,
Doug

Its 128" diagonal, its 117" wide.

Im sure the HP is a great screen for it. Personally, Ive always been a deep blacks kind of guy. I sacrificed a lot of whites with my Sharp 12k in high contrast, with a firehawk, and was actually happy with a very dim image because my blacks were so good.

Having been there, Im pretty sure my clamoring for even deeper blacks on my Carada BW will be even stronger with the HP, regardless of the added punch. Not that I could handle the best installation for a high-power anyway. Ive got 4 kids so having the projector that low would certainly be an invitation for trouble.

Its 128" diagonal, its 117" wide.

Im sure the HP is a great screen for it. Personally, Ive always been a deep blacks kind of guy. I sacrificed a lot of whites with my Sharp 12k in high contrast, with a firehawk, and was actually happy with a very dim image because my blacks were so good.

Having been there, Im pretty sure my clamoring for even deeper blacks on my Carada BW will be even stronger with the HP, regardless of the added punch. Not that I could handle the best installation for a high-power anyway. Ive got 4 kids so having the projector that low would certainly be an invitation for trouble.

I hear you about the mounting position with kids, and the black levels. I am sure we would both like more punch and more black levels, but that trade off could be a tough call.

I have heard of people with rather large SMX screens and the RS-1 who are happy. I am just going to try everything out and see.

I am hoping that I will be done changing projectors for a little while, though. :) I am just going to to try everything out and see what I like best with the RS-1.

Best Regards,
Doug

I got some decent results off my settings last night. Now I can throw any material and just enjoy watching, without having to hold the darn remote. I tried briefly Pan’s Labyrinth SD and noticed how bad the transfer was at the intro part – too much haze. But after skipping chapters to look for more I noticed it was only that beginning part which suffered the most.

So anyway, after dialing in my settings below then switching back to the default Natural mode (even with Offset settings to 0), no longer looks acceptable to my eyes. It may vary from unit to unit but I will post my settings anyway, in case someone checks out and sees am way too off with the colors:

Contrast 0
Brightness 0
Color –4 or –2 (depending on material)
Gamma A
Offset R–10, G-17, B-5
User 1 R-20, G-55, B-30

After hooking up my HDMI cables, I found that (unlike the component sources) when switching between both blu-ray (PS3) and HD DVD sources, the birghtness and contrast settings for BOTH sources are now the same. I am still using a .8 gain "high contrast" screen, but my 1.3 gain screen will be arriving tomorrow, in time for the weekend.
Right now, I have the contrast and brightness settings both at +1, the color temperature at "medium" and the color at -4. The gamma is still at "off", but I will experiment further. Do you guys REALLY think that messing with the R,G and B settings this much will have that much of an impact in the image/color quality? I am afraid to mess with them. I suppose that you can always go back to the defaults, but I don't personally see anything wrong with my image "as is". It is my understanding that with the "middle" color temp that this thing is darn close to D65 (except being a bit harsh on the flesh tones) without any RGB adjustments...

Lee

I havent really messed with the individual color adjustments, but without toning down the "color" the image does look a little neonish to me. I know some folks who like the color setting at factory, too, so you wouldnt be the only one.

In the end being able to jump back to default should put you at risk free on experimenting with the settings until you find your spot, I think.

mine:
CONTRAST +4
BRIGTHNESS -2
COLOR 8
SHARPNESS 0
DNR 0 (but i have to test further)
GAMMA Normal (C reduces 3D impression)
OFFSET R -2 / G: +15 / BLUE:20 . this is done to improve the punch on daylight scenes.
TEMP: MIDDLE (i have to fine tune the temp though)
grey scale (avia, HD1 test function) looks great.
screen: close to 120" wide.

Wow, color plus 8 and then boosts to the offsets? Ill have to check that out and see how that does. Your colors dont look neonish? Very interesting. Im actually going to get some time in my theater tonight, so ill try this out. 8)

What kind of screen is your 120" wide?

"I'll have to see. I think everyone else has gotten used to the punch of the HP, so I have a feeling that I will be going with a 2.35 HP that is just wide enough to fit between my tower speakers."

I have an 8' wide 2.35 HP screen and it was just blindly bright with the JVC OOTB. But I was expecting that. I'm running it with a ND4 filter right now and it is still plenty bright. The plan is over time when the bulb dims I'll switch down to a ND2 and then later on run without a filter so I can keep my brightness more consistent over the life of the bulb.

Shawn

So anyway, after dialing in my settings below then switching back to the default Natural mode (even with Offset settings to 0), no longer looks acceptable to my eyes. It may vary from unit to unit but I will post my settings anyway, in case someone checks out and sees am way too off with the colors:

Contrast 0
Brightness 0
Color –4 or –2 (depending on material)
Gamma A
Offset R–10, G-17, B-5
User 1 R-20, G-55, B-30

Maybe some of you new and even old tweekers aren't aware of this but you can get great pro class calibration results for very little money and effort. I have been a ColorFacts user from its beta 1 beginning and must say this free HFCR software http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=737550 is a class calibration program and getting better. Download and give it a look. This calibration software has a "no probe needed simulation mode" so you can see how it works. To actually calibrate your own display all you need to purchase is an inexpensive HFCR supported probe and you will be able to achieve accurate measured D65 calibration that your eyes alone just can't do . FWIW HFCR supported tri-stimulas probes start at ~$79 from E stores. I'm playing with the Monaco Optix XR X-Rite (DTP-94) ~$179 and tickled with the accurate measurments I'm getting.

Wow, color plus 8 and then boosts to the offsets? Ill have to check that out and see how that does. Your colors dont look neonish? Very interesting. Im actually going to get some time in my theater tonight, so ill try this out. 8)

What kind of screen is your 120" wide?

my current screen is a 1.4 mp screen but i will quickly finally switch to a 1.12 non painted mp screen. the screen in fact is 4meters 2.35:1 mp but i use for now about 290-300cm width.
painted (gain) microperforated screen is a big no no unless you sit very far away (i say 7meters or more), and it screws up the colorimetry.(especially blue and green)
side side test tonight with the 1.12 sample (it's not painted, just high quality super micro pvc) is clearly the way to go with microperforation if you have to.
no more visible paint, at 3meters and beyond, it looks like a non perf PVC screen.
exactly what i need and the next step will be a curved frame. (row 1 at 3.6m, 2 at 5meters and 3rd at 6.5meters).

the paint 1.4 screen indeed often had a tendency to neonish the colorimetry. and also reveal more grain, video noise.
curving wiill help pointing more brigthness towards the audience rather than flat frame. screen research material you lose 20% so unless youhave 2000ansi, no way for me.

I have an 8' wide 2.35 HP screen and it was just blindly bright with the JVC OOTB. But I was expecting that. I'm running it with a ND4 filter right now and it is still plenty bright. The plan is over time when the bulb dims I'll switch down to a ND2 and then later on run without a filter so I can keep my brightness more consistent over the life of the bulb.


Thats a great way to keep it at max contrast, specially if you dont see any sparklies or side effects on the HP (and can obviously handle the install.)

the paint 1.4 screen indeed often had a tendency to neonish the colorimetry. and also reveal more grain, video noise.


Your settings are intriguing. I definitely notice more neon with the colors, but very pleasing. Since the range on the settings, from one extreme to the other, appears to be very small and each click is a very fine adjustment, the difference is noticeable but NOT very dramatic.

What was your logic for tweaking the offsets like you did? I left your offsets in place, and settled with gamma c with -4 brightness, contrast 15, and color -2. I keep switching with gamma normal and -2 brightness with all the other settings the same, too.

Programmed them into user 2 and 3, repectively. Was doing A B and C all night with the three of them, including my old settings. I was throwing in some high bulb too.

All of the three looked very nice, watched some Apocalypto, Casino Royale, Planet Earth and Batman Begins. Im kind of leaning on user 2, wth gamma c brightness -4, but will play more tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing your settings, I believe I have found a more satisfying image to look at. 8)

hi
the neonish colorimetry no matter the projector used, is due to the paint on the microperforated screen. it's really time for me to replace it
testing a 1.12 non painted microperf large sample screen yesterday was mind blowing in colorimetry and absence of screen visibility ! If one wants a microperf screen (not talking of SResearch) it must be non painted, without gain (1.12 is from the PVC itself but it's not painted)
the paint, the gain used by manufacturers on mp screens create a constant metallic, compression-noise like aspect which videophiles would hate.
adjust the size of the screen as per the room and projector brigthness ability and if 2.35:1 make it curved, you 'll gain more brigthness reflect at the audience. (see Stewart's paper on why curving, aside from the pincushion/lens aspect).
There's even tricks to make the sound from center speaker come from the screen (illusion) like placing it quite in front of the screen, raised and tilted towards the audience and it sounds like it comes from the screen middle.

but we're getting away from the RS1 tuning here :)

boosting the offsets gives more punch while staying in normal lamp mode and thus silencer fan noise than setting the lamp to High. there's no harm to the DILApanels either.
it also helps a bit imho adding a dlp punch, since the DILA still lacks some ansi contrast vs DLP. i think where JVC engineers should work is the ansi contrast. 600:1 would be marvelous.

Maybe some of you new and even old tweekers aren't aware of this but you can get great pro class calibration results for very little money and effort. I have been a ColorFacts user from its beta 1 beginning and must say this free HFCR software http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=737550 is a class calibration program and getting better. Download and give it a look. This calibration software has a "no probe needed simulation mode" so you can see how it works. To actually calibrate your own display all you need to purchase is an inexpensive HFCR supported probe and you will be able to achieve accurate measured D65 calibration that your eyes alone just can't do . FWIW HFCR supported tri-stimulas probes start at ~$79 from E stores. I'm playing with the Monaco Optix XR X-Rite (DTP-94) ~$179 and tickled with the accurate measurments I'm getting.

Thanks for the info, I'll look into this. It probably is what I need. :)

boosting the offsets gives more punch while staying in normal lamp mode and thus silencer fan noise than setting the lamp to High. there's no harm to the DILApanels either.


But it also will give you a very high color temp, as both green and blue need to be reduced relative to red to get anywhere near 6500, even with the "middle" color temp setting. The "middle" color temp sets Green at -25 and Blue at -37 (User RGB settings), but that still gives you a slightly high greyscale.