I am debating on going w/ simple hung 2' x 4' fabric wrapped treatments, or something a little more fancy that would involve covering the majority of the wall w/ GOM.

I started wondering how the GOM and whatever insulation was behind it would hold up to somebody touching it. I have a 1.5 and a 5yr old, and even though they are good about not touching things I tell them not to touch (mainly the screen and my gear), I suspect it would be pretty hard to keep a kid from touching a wall.

So what sort of abuse would a fabric wall hold up to?

It's pretty tough stuff, but even so, make sure the kids are supervised. I have a 7 and a 5 year old, it's been fine. I do NOT allow toys in my room. No throwing, poking, etc allowed. No running around either! I haven't had any issues in 1.5 years.

Bud

Thanks Bud.

I thought I have read in the past about someone touching a wall and it leaving a dent in the rigid fiberglass or something. I was also thinking that the fabric might stretch further and sag.

I might have to deter the running around in my room by adding another row. We only have one row of seats right now, which sets up too good for the kids to chase each other around and around and around. It looks like good times.

I thought I have read in the past about someone touching a wall and it leaving a dent in the rigid fiberglass or something. I was also thinking that the fabric might stretch further and sag.


Linacoustic does not dent, I can not speak for other forms of rigid fiberglass.
The basic GOM fabric (FR701-2100) is pretty sturdy stuff. It's probably most often seen as the fabric used in the manufacture of office cubicles. Therefore it's pretty durable and can be wiped with a damp cloth.

If it is well tensioned in the beginning it will not sag and will spring backed if you press it in and release.

POKE:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC00914.jpg

AND RELEASE:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC00915.jpg

Thanks BIG! Those pics are perfect. I am glad to see that my fears were unwarranted.

Now I just have to come up with a design I really like and the time to implement.

I wish my GOM was that tuff.!! :eek: I got this stuff,,, Guildford FR-701 2100 series which i think is the same stuff Big mentioned,,, but damn,,, if you look at mine crosseyed it dents and/or sags. Doesn't seem to matter about tension,,, I tried several different install tentions.

I wonder if they sent me the wrong stuff,,, cause I am very familiar with the material on cube walls,,, mine is nothing like that,,, it's weight is closer to grill cloth!. :o

Yes GOM is very tough stuff, but I completely agree it's all about having it tight, if you don't well... I used Fabric mate track it worked very well. Unfortuantley my fabric is a little thinner than the standard GOM so I have to tighten it up now an then, but at least I have that option. Fabric track might be the best way if you have kids you could always remove a damaged section.

I spoke with bpape yesterday, and he thinks even though the GOM will bounce back, the rigid figerglass could compress if poked. He said that the acoustical cotton will bounce back though. A potential dent or two probably wouldn't make much difference, but I'd rather not have to worry about it, so I'll likely go with the acoustical cotton for my absorption.

Don, how hard is it to retension your fabric with the tracks?

How much the fiberglass behind will stay deformed is a function of it's density. If you poke hard at 703 or 705 (3 or 6lb) it will stay dented. Potentially not a big deal but over time if you have a lot of poking going on, it could be an issue. Lighter density materials like 1.5lb linacoustic would bounce back easier. Having to buy Linacoustic by the roll is a problem though in smaller rooms as you'll have a lot of extra potentially.

The cotton will return to shape much better even in a 3lb density.

Bryan

OK So GOM is pretty resilient. Good...

How can I get a latex based glue used for veneering off it?

I noticed a small (dime- sized) area/stain that looks like glue from the veneering process. Argh! My first stain! It's like a first dent in a new car door.....

Any ideas for removing the glue without damaging the GOM or ruining its color?

Thanks,

Tom
Chinaclipper

I had good luck using acetone in removing some paint/and construction glue from my GOM.

Test first. Acetone really puts out an odor but it will disappear unlike some other solvents.

I got some Loctite construction adhesive on some black GOM and it game off with a clean cloth and Acetone. I got it before it had really dried though.

I had good luck using acetone in removing some paint/and construction glue from my GOM.

Test first. Acetone really puts out an odor but it will disappear unlike some other solvents.

I got some Loctite construction adhesive on some black GOM and it game off with a clean cloth and Acetone. I got it before it had really dried though.

Thanks BIGmouthinDC.
Acetone worked like a champ. The adhesive was residue from the glue used to fix the veener to the column, and was 48 hrs old.

Took a few minutes, and I tested on some leftover material first. It loosened it up, and I was able to gently scrape off the excess, then apply, then scrape etc. GOM held up well, no color loss, no rings, no bleed.

That GOM is tough stuff. I'm sold!
Best,
Tom
Chincalipper

You will receive my bill shortly. Glad it worked.

After doing about 60 panels in sizes from 12 x 18 to 45 x 60, I have found there are four things that are important.

1) TIGHT. You cannot get a big panel tight enough w/o making a jig to hold the frame on one side and use a bar with the fabric clamped between it on the other side to pull it tight. We made a jig as part of a table (4 x 8 plywood screwed to sawhorses and weighted with sandbags). We stapled the FR701 to one long side and then clamped the other long side between two 1 x 4 strips with 5 C-Clamps. Then TWO people pulled on the fabric as hard as possible before wrapping and stapling it.

2) Be sure that the panels in the area subject to impact (mostly below elbow level) are backed right behind the fabric wherever possible. 1 inch Linacoustic works well for this for 1 inch panels/frames and this usually works out for acoustics. The Linacoustic panels should be glued to the wall behind the frame. 3M Super 77 spray works great for this!

3) Make sure the frames are wide enough so that the fabric tension will not bow them. Depending on the wood used, at least 2 and as much as 4 inches wide.

4) If possible, screw the frames to the wall at least every 16 inches along each side - this will help to keep the fabric from bowing the frames.

We have had the frames in place for 6 weeks for some of the big panels with no evidence of sagging and casual contact does not seem to affect them. In our case (see below) nearly all the walls are fabric panels.

OTOH, we are past the kid stage and the grandson will be HIGHLY regulated when he visits. <g>

http://nightskypictures.com/theater/Front.jpg