I just received my Mits 57 dlp monday and loved the pic right away. It looks awesome. After about 30 minutes I noticed a high pitch whining coming from the set. I figured it would go away or I could adjust the audio to correct the problem but nothing worked. I watched tv for about 4 hours Monday night while fiddling with the audio and on Tuesday morning my ears literally had the after concert ringing.

I googled the high pitched whining sound and ended up here. I would like to thank all that have posted before and provided such valuable info. I went through 35 pages of posts last night to figure out what the hell is going on with this beautiful new tv. I am being honest when I say that watching tv with that high pitch squeel is torture. Chinese Water Torture!!!!!! There is no way I can live with that frickin' noise. I can leave the tv on mute and go two rooms away and I can still hear it ringing. My wife hears it also. It is such a shame.

I called Mits and they were unhelpful and/or unaware, blah, blah, blah. I called CC and they are ordering another and will deliver it in a week or so. I have a feeling that the next set they deliver will do the same thing but who knows I'll keep my fingers crossed.

I have read about the fix and would like to know if anybody else has tried it. I may have to break out the screwdriver and electrical tape if the next one starts assaulting my inner ear drum.

I just received my Mits 57 dlp monday and loved the pic right away. It looks awesome. After about 30 minutes I noticed a high pitch whining coming from the set. I figured it would go away or I could adjust the audio to correct the problem but nothing worked. I watched tv for about 4 hours Monday night while fiddling with the audio and on Tuesday morning my ears literally had the after concert ringing.

I googled the high pitched whining sound and ended up here. I would like to thank all that have posted before and provided such valuable info. I went through 35 pages of posts last night to figure out what the hell is going on with this beautiful new tv. I am being honest when I say that watching tv with that high pitch squeel is torture. Chinese Water Torture!!!!!! There is no way I can live with that frickin' noise. I can leave the tv on mute and go two rooms away and I can still hear it ringing. My wife hears it also. It is such a shame.

I called Mits and they were unhelpful and/or unaware, blah, blah, blah. I called CC and they are ordering another and will deliver it in a week or so. I have a feeling that the next set they deliver will do the same thing but who knows I'll keep my fingers crossed.

I have read about the fix and would like to know if anybody else has tried it. I may have to break out the screwdriver and electrical tape if the next one starts assaulting my inner ear drum.

Many people have done the electrical tape fix and it does go away 100% in most cases. If you are happy with your geometry and you have no other problems than the high pitch then I'd do the fix rather than risk of getting a new set with other problems. Thats just me though.

Mine also just shipped from tigerdirect today. Can anybody recommend a nice stand for the tv? I've looked at the matching factory stand (MB-65PB), but it's so bland looking. Is anybody currently (or going to) be using a different stand for the 65" TV that you can recommend for under $400-500? Thanks!

I also bought the INIT stand at Best Buy that NeoAaron referred to. Very happy with it. As I recall, though, the top shelf is 300 lbs. and the bottom 2 are 100 lbs. each.

What I really like about it is I can fit 3 components across on each shelf. With stacking, I currently have 9 components, a wide center channel speaker, and 3 switch boxes contained on the bottom 2 shelves, and it looks really good.

Hi Redbull, check post #908 for the bowing fix.

Have you tried any other HDMI device on the back inputs?

Yep i have my PC running through it DVI to HDMI just weird how my tv wont recognise my xbox. Any ideas?? Thanx for the reply on the bowing issue ;)

I bought that same TV from Tiger Direct but through Amazon. My order got canceled the next day according to amazon because of "a system glitch" .

After an hour and a half on the phone with Amazon CSRs and higher ups. I ended up getting a really good deal from Amazon on the 73734 for $2199 shipped that is supposed to be here on Dec 3rd. The problem I'm having now is finding a stand for the thing. The current stand we had would have fit the 65" perfectly but the 73 is going to hang over the edge 3" on each side. I don't know how bad that is but I really do not want to spend a ton on a stand at the moment.

That's the best price I've seen for the 73734. Congrats. I'd say the couple of hours of aggravation paid off.

Good luck finding a stand.

Originally Posted by minorthr I ended up getting a really good deal from Amazon on the 73734 for $2199 shipped

That's the best price I've seen for the 73734. Congrats. I'd say the couple of hours of aggravation paid off.

Been watching Amazon's prices for the past few weeks, haven't seen anything under about $2900 for this TV. How'd I miss this?! :confused:

I also bought the INIT stand at Best Buy that NeoAaron referred to. Very happy with it. As I recall, though, the top shelf is 300 lbs. and the bottom 2 are 100 lbs. each.

Doesn't a 3-shelf stand put the TV a bit high for viewing?

I'm also considering the height of a posible stand.
My 57 is coming this week & I've got my eyes set on an 3 piece entertainment unit. The stand would elevate the set probably 30+ inches, to keep it out of range of a sticky fingered 6 month old.

Would a stand of this height interfere with my viewing angle. I'm hoping that small of an incline would.

incline would not interfere, not would as I typed.

Been watching Amazon's prices for the past few weeks, haven't seen anything under about $2900 for this TV. How'd I miss this?! :confused:

He got this price because Amazon screwed up his order and he went after them. They gave him a discount for his problems.

Normally the lowest I've seen this TV at is 2600-2700. You have to check out Fry's electronic in store promotions

Also I regarding cabinets. I know I posted mine before but it seems to be a hot topic again. I keep getting compliments on it.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1001/73734na6.jpg

Media shelves on the ends. I have my powered sub wolfer and center speaker in the middle cabinet which is made of speaker mesh. Great for hiding speakers with very little loss of sound quality.

As you can see the cabinet is a good size for the tv. I paid 700 for the base. You might be able to do better if you research it. Here's a link to office furniture's (http://www.officefurniture.com/Browse/Entertainment-Furniture/Entertainment-Centers-Widescreen-TV/Onyx-Finished-Wall-Unit-for-PlasmaLCD-Flat-Panel-TVs-OFGEF0034.aspx?afid=shoppingcom_of) page. I obviously didn't by the wall portion of this unit.

I have the original Mitsubishi stand for my TV and it is only 19" high. I feel this is just a little short, but one thing about the original stand is that it locks the TV in place, so young children cannot get behind it and push it over.

I was over a friends house the other day and he has two little grandsons which live with him, and he has a 42" Plasma sitting on a regular TV stand. I think all the new TV's need to be fastened down somehow because of the children and the dangers it can pose.




Bill

Hello -

New to the forum. Just bought the 57734 on Black Friday last week and extremely happy with it so far. Picture is incredible. Dish coming this weekend to hook up the HD before the games on Sunday!

I bought the 65734 w/ matching stand about a week ago. I'm pretty happy with it. I did have to adjust the geometry and the H/V position. The service manual should just come with these things, since all of them probably need to be tweaked a little bit.

I also got the 5 yr. warranty. It was only $250 when bought with the rest of the stuff. I was told that covers bulb replacements. Seemed like a good idea.

Great picture. I use all of the rear HDMI ports (satellite, PS3, XB360). Netcommand actually works. I still need to play with the PerfectColor and PerfecTint. I'm not sure what the best way to do that is, so I haven't messed with it yet. Any suggestions?

I'm glad I finally took the plunge. I got the store to give me a price guarantee through December, so I felt safe buying this early.

I have read about the fix and would like to know if anybody else has tried it. I may have to break out the screwdriver and electrical tape if the next one starts assaulting my inner ear drum.

I called a local Mits repair company a few weeks ago and they came and did the electrical tape fix. No more high pitch'ed ringing!

Folks,

I got an email flyer from Tiger direct on a 65" Mitsubushi DLP 1080p set for ~$1500 w/free shipping - I dont see any model # so Im not sure if it is the set talked about in this thread - any comments on this set/deal? Seems too good to be true:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3429051&body=QA#tabs

I just found the product # - its the WD-65734. I havent found the refresh rate on this yet - if I was to invest in this I want to make sure my sports viewing inst blurry/pixelated.

Hi,
I just received the stand for my 73734 yesterday. Put it together and it looks beautiful with this TV. I have my receiver, CC speaker and HD-A3 on the first shelf below the TV. The TV fits perfectly. The "Plateau" stand is 64"W and only 16"H so your viewing at about center screen while seated. Most places don't go below $399 for this stand. It retails for about $499. I found it at furniture store called Get BoBo on sale for $299. It's very high quality and looks great.:) Check it out.

Randy



Doesn't a 3-shelf stand put the TV a bit high for viewing?

FYI... I just discovered that the Mitusubishi 65734 HDTV is on sale again for 72 hours at Tigerdirect.com. It is going for $1599 with Free Shipping. Not as good of a deal as last weeks $1399, but still a great deal! Mine TV is supposed to arrive this morning! Can't wait! :-)

"Get BoBo"?.........what can you say.......priceless:D

That's actually better than "Nathan's Unpainted Arizona" furniture, and I thought nothing could ever beat that....great price on the stand.

Anyone wanting the Toshiba HD-A30 for $281 head over to buydig.com.

FYI... I just discovered that the Mitusubishi 65734 HDTV is on sale again for 72 hours at Tigerdirect.com. It is going for $1599 with Free Shipping. Not as good of a deal as last weeks $1399, but still a great deal!

Sure wish I could find a deal like that for the 73"

My $1399 734 just arrived from Tiger! Woohoo......working feverishly to get the basement repaired from the flood. Maybe I'll bust it out of the box and preview it in the den anyway. Also saw Tiger has a halfway decent looking 60" wide TV/audio cabinet for 249.

Anyone wanting the Toshiba HD-A30 for $281 head over to buydig.com.

Just a warning about buydig.com - as they are good online store - they require every single shipped products to have signature in PERSON. Someone HAS to be at the door to accept the shipment. I ordered a printer there and it was supposed to be delivered on Monday, but kept missing the Fedex idiots (I keep telling them to come by after 5pm - and they always come by around 3pm - one night - they came by around 6:30pm and I missed em....) and finally got the printer on Friday. Very frustruating - won't even order from buydig.com anymore. So make sure you get someone there to accept the package. No they won't give you a paper to sign and put back on door.

Anyone experience this issue? The bottom left hand side of me new 73734 will make a small popping sound and when it does the tv's sound cuts in and out for a second. I just got this tv last night and it seems to be a pretty frequent occurance. Any ideas?

That won't be a problem cause my Fedx guy won't even ring the doorbell.

Hey Odd1 make sure you let that thing warm up to room temp before you power it on. I got mine yesterday and am just now going to give it a try. The truck driver said his parents got one and didn't let it warm up and when they turned it on went--- pop-- pop-- fizz-- fizz all gone.

Our 73734 and matching stand arrived yesterday. We purchased it at Fry's last Sunday when it was on sale. Here are my first observations...
1) Fantastic picture. 73" is huge and a very nice presentation of HD material.
2) Fits nicely on the matching stand although the stand is a bit pricey.
3) No high pitch ringing so far.
4) Cheesy speaker sound -- this TV really needs to be attached to an external audio system.

DonP

How Is The Gaming On This Tv?

My $1399 734 just arrived from Tiger! Woohoo......working feverishly to get the basement repaired from the flood. Maybe I'll bust it out of the box and preview it in the den anyway. Also saw Tiger has a halfway decent looking 60" wide TV/audio cabinet for 249.

Mine arrived today too! The picture is awesome and the TV is working great!
I too am waiting for my basement to be finished, but in no way could I wait for 3 more weeks to take the tv out of the box!

Enjoy your tv and your basement!

Mine arrived today too! The picture is awesome and the TV is working great!
I too am waiting for my basement to be finished, but in no way could I wait for 3 more weeks to take the tv out of the box!

Enjoy your tv and your basement!


Mine was delivered today also. The room was ready, so it was just un-crate and go. It's AWESOME! It has no whine and a label indicating it was just manufactured this month, so I hope it won't develop one later. Hope you all enjoy your's as well.

My delivery isn't scheduled til next Sunday. Hopefully, I'll end up with a recent make.

Since everyone is complaining about the sound on this thing why not just change out the speaker? Think I might do that once its settled. Mine will be sitting in the middle of my 5 Paradigms powered by Yamaha but I don't like having to use the sound system just to watch TV.

My delivery isn't scheduled til next Sunday. Hopefully, I'll end up with a recent make.

Mine is scheduled before next Saturday. I hope mine has a recent manufactured date as well.

Our 73734 and matching stand arrived yesterday. We purchased it at Fry's last Sunday when it was on sale.

Are these advertised sales? Been watching the Frys circulars, haven't seen anything. Or do ya just have to keep visiting the store or calling them to see if it's on sale?

Since everyone is complaining about the sound on this thing why not just change out the speaker? Think I might do that once its settled. Mine will be sitting in the middle of my 5 Paradigms powered by Yamaha but I don't like having to use the sound system just to watch TV.

Are you nuts use those Paradigms .........

Are you nuts use those Paradigms .........

And what is wrong with using Paradigm speakers?

PatrickVo,

He is telling him to use his Paradigm speakers, not the TV Speakers. The TV speakers in the Mitsibushi only have a 1" X 2" opening for speakers, no wonder why they don't sound good!!
I am sure when the TV's were made Mitsibushi assumed that most people would be using a Pro sound system with the Tv.




Bill

I am sure when the TV's were made Mitsibushi assumed that most people would be using a Pro sound system with the Tv.

I am glad they didn't spend a lot putting some slightly higher quality speakers in. It would have just increased the price on something that most of us wouldn't use. For good audio, we all put our money in something else anyway....

Are these advertised sales? Been watching the Frys circulars, haven't seen anything. Or do ya just have to keep visiting the store or calling them to see if it's on sale?

This was not an advertised sale as far I can tell. I visited Frys (Houston) on the Tuesday before Thanksgiving (11/20) and they had the 75733 on sale through 11/30. I took my wife to Frys on the Sunday after Thanksgiving (11/25) to see this TV and they had the 75734 on sale through 11/27. The sales guy said they only had 2 in stock and the sale would end when those 2 were sold. He assured me these were not store returns but were still in their original unopened boxes.
DonP

How is the gaming on this TV?

From another thread:

"Enter the Service Menu at your own risk.


- Press "menu"
- While on the menu screen press 2 4 5 7 wait 2 seconds then press 0
- You'll see 5 menu selections at the top of the screen
- Arrow down to "MANUAL KEYSTONE GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT" and press the "enter" button
- You will come to a black screen with overscan lines around the perimeter and two vertical lines at the 4:3 bar location
- Seeing this screen, you'll probably want to adjust the perimeter also which is the first part of these instructions. If not, read on through to the end which will get you to the 4:3 bar adjustment.
- There are adjustment points along the perimeter ("+" marks)
- The first point you're at when you arrive to the screen is the upper left corner
- Adjust that point (if needed) by pressing the up/down/left/right arrow keys in the direction you need that point to move to straighten any irregularities there. You won't see any of the lines move at this point, just the "+" pointer.
- You access the "+" points in a clockwise direction from the starting point by pressing "fast forward" (to the right of "play") on the remote to move to the next adjustment point. Adjust the pointer at the next point if needed in the same manner (up,down,left right) then on to the next point.
- "Fast Rewind" will move you backwards, point to point, headed back to the starting point.
- Since you don't see the results of your adjustments onscreen, you'll have to press "enter" which will return you to the Geometry menu screen, then "enter" again to get you back to the adjustment screen. Then you'll see the results. You'll be going back and forth like this quite a few times. NOTE: If you make an adjustment on a point and press "enter", that adjustment won't take. Make sure before you "enter" out to the menu, that you fast forward or rewind to the next point first.

- To adjust the two 4:3 vertical bars, "fast forward" all the way around to the starting point. Once there, you'll be in the 4:3 bar adjustment mode. The next "fast forward" press will make both 4:3 lines move. Just keep pressing "fast forward / rewind" until you get the bars straight as possible. Press "enter" to get back to the menu screen. If you are finished, press "exit"."


I've heard that using the INFO button on the remote makes the settings take effect as well but I'm not totally sure on that. Maybe someone else can clarify that.


You heard correct....as a matter of fact, the ONLY way to get the settings to take is to hit the INFO button after each movement, do NOT go to the main menu, that means it did not register. The lines will move and you can see them move after hitting the INFO button. Mine was pretty good, but definately needed adjustment. The 4:3 lines are the most frustrating, you can not get it perfect, but close enough.

Thanks for the post, It was a big help.

PatrickVo,

He is telling him to use his Paradigm speakers, not the TV Speakers. The TV speakers in the Mitsibushi only have a 1" X 2" opening for speakers, no wonder why they don't sound good!!
I am sure when the TV's were made Mitsibushi assumed that most people would be using a Pro sound system with the Tv.




Bill

My bad.

How is the gaming on this TV?

i have the 65" one.. i haven't played too many games yet.. just halo 3 (xbox 360), 1080i.. very impressive.. amazing graphics.. crystal clear.. fast.. i'm definitely happy with it

Oh yeah I know my Paradigms are beautiful.....I don't think they can be beat by any other speaker for the money...............I have 60's for the mains with matching center and 40's for sourrounds with one of their killer 10" Subs with separate controls! Its awesome, since the sub sits close to a corner (not by choice) it creates a standing sound wave that vibrates the whole friggin house, many complaints from the wife...Aaaaaah shut up...I'm enjoying this!! I usually audition Saving Private Ryan when showing it off. ( the flood damaged my mains and my sub...yes I shed a tear but I was able to rescue them) Whatever I'm watching is secondary to the sound for me........However when watching regular TV. The News, Letterman, Two and a Half Men, whatever, to me there's no point. Makes all the remote fumbling annoying........especially if the wife and or child is involved. I always had it set up so that all they have to do is click one remote for regular TV. Much less worries for me.......But I understand your point ...use the Paradigms!

can someone please post the link for the 65734 picture settings? i have tried to search for it but cant find it. The search wont let me do advanced search for some reason. Thanks!

can someone please post the link for the 65734 picture settings? i have tried to search for it but cant find it. The search wont let me do advanced search for some reason. Thanks!

Here you go:

http://help.cnet.com/9602-12576_39-0.html?messageID=2510321

Well I just got my 73 inch from BB and I'm not sure what to think. Don't get me wrong the picture is fantastic but I see more flaws with this set then my old 60 inch SXRD which is now in the basement. Granted the SXRD I bought was a first gen product that was only 1080i but it seems brighter and the viewing angle greater. Also the SXRD looked better out of box. It's not professionally calibrated or anything but I may return this and wait for the 70 inch SXRD around the bend. I'll mess around with the settings some more and see if I can get it to my taste.

Here you go:

http://help.cnet.com/9602-12576_39-0.html?messageID=2510321


Seems to be settings for a completely darkened room. Anyone care to post their settings for a general purpose family room. A room with daylight during the day and some lighting at night. The CNet settings make the pic too dark for anyting but a completely dark room in my opinion.

settings for a general purpose family room. A room with daylight during the day and some lighting at night.

Not meaning to be a smart***, but that would generally be pretty close to the factory setting, aside from adjustment for taste.

Seems to be settings for a completely darkened room. Anyone care to post their settings for a general purpose family room. A room with daylight during the day and some lighting at night. The CNet settings make the pic too dark for anyting but a completely dark room in my opinion.

There's a tweaking and setting thread here (although not specific to 734):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=733591 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=733591)

I have done my research and trials with various settings and sources, and opted for the following on my 65734:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post12007432 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12007432#post12007432)
The Service Menu changes made a significant change on my set in getting grayscale corrected. White used to be green/yellow and red used to be more purple. All 3 gains (GGL, GRL, GBL) were set to 1024 from the factory (go figure!) and it made for incorrect colors! Perfect Tint is at 31 for all, so is Perfect Color.

Each set is different so these changes might work or make it worse. Write down the original SM values before making any changes!

Not meaning to be a smart***, but that would generally be pretty close to the factory setting, aside from adjustment for taste.

Unfortunatley, factory setting does not equate with optimization for a living room environment. Manufacturers compete for a bright picture in a bright fluorescent-lit warehouse environment, not necessarily a crisp, correct picture.

I've had my 73734 for 2 weeks and it's a great TV!

I have run up against a little snag that maybe someone can help me with.

I have a TivoHD connected to the 73734 via HDMI. The TivoHD is also connected via composite to a Slingbox.

Problem: Whenever the TV is "off" the TivoHD disables all outputs because it cannot do the HDMI handshake with the TV. Unfortunately this disables the composite outputs so I cannot do remote viewing via the Slingbox.

Apparently some TVs will maintain the HDMI handshake in "off" mode because others with TivoHDs do not have this problem.

Question: Are there any Mits TV options or settings that would resolve this issue?

I know I can use the component connections and bypass the problem, but I'd really like to retain the HDMI connections for a variety of reasons.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Craig

Hi folks,

i have posted this before but did not get a response.....hoping to try again.

I fully understand the 73734 can ACCEPT a 1080p/24 signal. My question is can it display that signal at 24hz?

the manual specs. just say that it accepts 1080p at 24hz, 48hz, and 60hz. I have searched all over the web, and can't find a reference to the display capabilities.

and finally, how do you know if it's outputting at 24hz?

thanks!

Jeff

I saw this set at Circuit City with a Nature demo being played on it. It looked incredible.

Do you guys find that the picture looks that good in your home?

I saw this set at Circuit City with a Nature demo being played on it. It looked incredible.

Do you guys find that the picture looks that good in your home?

If the Nature Demo was a direct feed from a Hi-Def DVD (not being shared by every other TV in the show room) it could be near the quality you will get at home. That certainly would not be the normal scenario.

Since so much of the quality of the picture is dependent on the quality of the input signal, it is likely your picture at home will better, maybe even much better, especially with a dedicated Hi-Def input.

One of my friends bought the WD-65733 on Black Fri. (for the same price I paid for my WD-57734 less than 3 mos. ago!). He's happy w/ it so far, although he said Dish Network SD service looks pretty bad. He's going to inquire w/ them on how much it'd cost to upgrade to their HD service.

He was asking me if the bulbs between our TVs are interchangeable. Taking that a step further, do all '733, '734, and '831 TVs have the same bulbs (regardless off size - 57", 65", or 73")?

And here's a quick update on my '57734. My TV is now almost 3 months old (odometer is a little under 200 hrs.). The high-pitched sound is completely gone, so the problem fixed itself. PQ is great; the only problem is whenever the screen pans, whether is OTA HD or DVD, there's a noticeable herky-jerky effect. I guess that's the 60 Hz issue that wouldn't be noticeable w/ the '833's 120 Hz. :confused:

Hi...my dad has his WD-65734 delivery tomorrow (Tiger/thanks...).

I've read 15-20 pages of posts quickly and did a few searches but wanted to ask specifically about DVI considerations...if you had to handle more than one DVI device and you were NOT utilizing an AV receiver, would you be restricted to getting audio from only one device from the TV (since it appears there are only analog audio inputs for just one HDMI port)....or....is there a way to reassign jacks from another set of unused audio jacks on the back of the Mits ?

thanks in advance...

One of my friends bought the WD-65733 on Black Fri. (for the same price I paid for my WD-57734 less than 3 mos. ago!).
He was asking me if the bulbs between our TVs are interchangeable. Taking that a step further, do all '733, '734, and '831 TVs have the same bulbs (regardless off size - 57", 65", or 73")?


From the owner's guide that covers the series/models below, there's one part number for the lamp replacement, so I believe it's interchangeable between the series mentioned, all sizes. Don't know about the 831/833.

Owner's Guide covers:
C Series
WD-C657
Y Series
WD-Y577, WD-Y657
733 Series
WD-57733, WD-65733, WD-73733
734 Series
WD-57734, WD-65734, WD-73734

I saw this set at Circuit City with a Nature demo being played on it. It looked incredible.

Do you guys find that the picture looks that good in your home?

dude, you push a 1080p/24 HD DVD or BD signal to this set(examples of excellent source material: Planet Earth, Seabiscuit, V for Vendetta) and you will cry like a little girl....it's that amazing:D

From the owner's guide that covers the series/models below, there's one part number for the lamp replacement, so I believe it's interchangeable between the series mentioned, all sizes. Don't know about the 831/833.

Owner's Guide covers:
C Series
WD-C657
Y Series
WD-Y577, WD-Y657
733 Series
WD-57733, WD-65733, WD-73733
734 Series
WD-57734, WD-65734, WD-73734
The xx833 has the same lamp, however the xx831 has a completely different lamp.

dude, you push a 1080p/24 HD DVD or BD signal to this set(examples of excellent source material: Planet Earth, Seabiscuit, V for Vendetta) and you will cry like a little girl....it's that amazing:D

Directv HD coming on Wednesday. I can't wait to see my 73734 go from 480i to 1080p! I might just "cry like a little girl" ;)

Hi...my dad has his WD-65734 delivery tomorrow (Tiger/thanks...).

I've read 15-20 pages of posts quickly and did a few searches but wanted to ask specifically about DVI considerations...if you had to handle more than one DVI device and you were NOT utilizing an AV receiver, would you be restricted to getting audio from only one device from the TV (since it appears there are only analog audio inputs for just one HDMI port)....or....is there a way to reassign jacks from another set of unused audio jacks on the back of the Mits ?

thanks in advance...
So you have multiple DVI devices?
I think your only option is to buy some device that converts DVI to HDMI, such as: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/403998-REG/TV_One_1T_DVI_HDMI_1T_DVI_HDMI_DVI_to_HDMI.html
I never tried it tho...so good luck.

Directv HD coming on Wednesday. I can't wait to see my 73734 go from 480i to 1080p! I might just "cry like a little girl" ;)

I thought D* only did 1080i. At least that's what my set says.

I thought D* only did 1080i. At least that's what my set says.

hmmm well actually I donno for sure. Here's the thread on directv HD http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=914047. I'm too lazy to read 51 pages to find out. I'll let you know what my set does in 2 days.

I have a new 65733 in the box still and was thinking of exchanging it out for the 65734 for $250 more. Is it worth it? Do many of you use the extra feature or do you leave them off? The extras are:

Dark Detailer™
PerfecTint™
DeepField™
SharpEdge™
NetCommand

This TV will be used for PS3, Xbox 360 and watching movies (DVD/Bluray) from the PS3. No cable or antenna hookups, because I don't watch TV at all.

Thanks!

I have a new 65733 in the box still and was thinking of exchanging it out for the 65734 for $250 more. Is it worth it? Do many of you use the extra feature or do you leave them off? The extras are:

Dark Detailer™
PerfecTint™
DeepField™
SharpEdge™
NetCommand

This TV will be used for PS3, Xbox 360 and watching movies (DVD/Bluray) from the PS3. No cable or antenna hookups, because I don't watch TV at all.

Thanks!

Dark Detailer™ - Built-in, always on. One of the MAJOR features of the 734.
PerfecTint™ - Important for calibration; use it sometimes, but after tweaking the gains in the Service Menu, opted to leave all at 31 default.
DeepField™ - I have it on always; gives a pop/3D depth perception. Haven't noticed that it "crushes blacks" like others claim.
SharpEdge™ - Off; turn on sometimes when hook up laptop via HDMI.
NetCommand - I use it and like it. Depend on it for AVR control and audio input auto switching.

One that you didn't mention: 4th HDMI in the front panel. (not on 733).

Both are very good sets. I opted for the 734 for Dark Detailer, Perfect Tint, and the 4th HDMI. Some places have the 734 for almost same price as 733, or even cheaper!

I thought D* only did 1080i. At least that's what my set says.

480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i. TV upconverts/deinterlaces to 1080p.

I have a new 65733 in the box still and was thinking of exchanging it out for the 65734 for $250 more. Is it worth it? Do many of you use the extra feature or do you leave them off? The extras are:

Dark Detailer™
PerfecTint™
DeepField™
SharpEdge™
NetCommand

This TV will be used for PS3, Xbox 360 and watching movies (DVD/Bluray) from the PS3. No cable or antenna hookups, because I don't watch TV at all.

Thanks!

I thought the 734 series has a better pic quality when comparing side by side. Of course that was in-store and there are many variables that pop up. I went with the 734 because of how much lighter it was. The 73734 is much, much lighter and easier to move.

I thought the 734 series has a better pic quality when comparing side by side. Of course that was in-store and there are many variables that pop up. I went with the 734 because of how much lighter it was. The 73734 is much, much lighter and easier to move.

Both 65733 and 65734 are '07-'08 models. They should both be same weight/dimensions. They both are lighter than LAST year's models.

Both 65733 and 65734 are '07-'08 models. They should both be same weight/dimensions. They both are lighter than LAST year's models.

I am not sure about years, all I know was the 733 I looked at was about 100lbs. heavier than the 734 I bought.

I am not sure about years, all I know was the 733 I looked at was about 100lbs. heavier than the 734 I bought.

According to the product specs on the Mitsubishi website, the 733 and 734 weigh the same. 78 lbs for the 65733 and 65734.

According to the product specs on the Mitsubishi website, the 733 and 734 weigh the same. 78 lbs for the 65733 and 65734.

Interesting. Maybe its just the 73"? Or maybe I was looking at a different model? Was there a 732 model at some point?

Interesting. Maybe its just the 73"? Or maybe I was looking at a different model? Was there a 732 model at some point?
The xx732 is one of last year's models, the equivalent of he xx734. The 732 models are heavier than the same size 734.

Well, it's sad to say but the 73 is going back. Just to many flaws with this set to justify me keeping it. The geometry is way out of whack and seems impossible to correct in the geo settings to get the 4:3 lines straight. When watching football or another side moving video it looks like you are watching it though a glass or underwater...kind of wave like. Also the brightness seems more centalized in the center/bottom and very dark at top and not very uniform thoughout. My 2 year old SXRD is by far better then this set which is only 1080i.

I wanted a 1080P HDTV so I took that "bigger the better" saying again. I really can't tell the difference between 1080i and 1080p on my HD player and I only set 6 ft away from the screen. I purchased this from hype and I really didn't like the picture "in store" and thought it could be ironed out. Well at least you can not hear the fan at all. I will wait to see if the new 70 SXRD is as good or better then my old.

[QUOTE=JoelM;12392423]
I only set 6 ft away from the screen. QUOTE]

only 6' from a 73" screen?:eek: I'm curious if that's why you are seeing what seems like a blurring effect. the other day I was setting up my HD DVD player and was unboxing it in front of my 73734, and I was probably around 6 or 7 feet away, and I was thinking how the display was not all that great at close range. I also think the same thing when I am really close to my Panasonic 42 plasma as well.

I'm just curious if you had a Mitz. certified tech. work on the geometry issues since your unit is under warranty. I did and my 4:3 borders look perfect now.

[QUOTE=JoelM;12392423]
I only set 6 ft away from the screen. QUOTE]

only 6' from a 73" screen?:eek: I'm curious if that's why you are seeing what seems like a blurring effect. the other day I was setting up my HD DVD player and was unboxing it in front of my 73734, and I was probably around 6 or 7 feet away, and I was thinking how the display was not all that great at close range. I also think the same thing when I am really close to my Panasonic 42 plasma as well.

I'm just curious if you had a Mitz. certified tech. work on the geometry issues since your unit is under warranty. I did and my 4:3 borders look perfect now.

I share these sentiments. I have a 73734 and it is horrible viewing within 10ft. With my PS3 blu-ray the viewing distance improves but only by a little.

My t.v. is best viewed about 12 ft. for 1080p and about 20ft. for 720p. I wish ESPN would broadcast football in 1080p because I can hardly watch the 720p in my family room - I have to go into the kitchen and sit at the table. Otherwise the grass looks like a big blur. NOw when I watch football on ABC or NBC (the nonESPN affiliated ESPN ABC football) in 1080p it is perfect.

My geometry is not perfect but acceptable. If I knew a little bit more about how to change it, I would. I only know how to use the ff and rew buttons within the 2-4-5-7-0 menu. These controls will not get it perfect for me.

After hearing about this issue. What's everyone's viewing distance. My 57734 is on the way. I beleive I'll be 7-8 feet.
My wife feels the set is going to be too big.

How big can you go w/ your TV?

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

After hearing about this issue. What's everyone's viewing distance. My 57734 is on the way. I beleive I'll be 7-8 feet.
My wife feels the set is going to be too big.

I sit exactly 8' from my 65" WD65734. To quote Borat: "Is nice!"

I had been contemplating purchasing from the new line of Mits (specifically a 734) to replace my 2 year old 73927 as it has never been right, but the continued evidence of what people on this board experience as pincushioning is disturbing. I'm sorry to hear some folks are suffering from it with their new purchases, and in some cases, nothing can be done within the service menu. I thought things might have gotten better.

My 927's picture is still stunning at 1080i. When I called about the pincushioning on 4:3 when first purchased, Mits dispatched 2 different techs from 2 different companies. They were unable to affect the geometry of the picture through the service menus. Mits then dispatched the local sales rep for the Rocky Mountain area and he proceeded to tell me he saw the effect a lot and even experienced on his same model at home. So, I learned to live with it, quietly grumbling about having to spend so much money on a warped picture.

Another year into ownership, the built-in hard disk (DVR) stopped responding. It had apparently burned out. I didn't find this too disturbing as hard drives burn up all of the time. Okay, not within a year. Mits offered to replace the hard drive under warranty. But that replacement never showed up, because...

I received a call and a letter from Mits about a week later asking me to take one of two deals: 1) Take a check for $4000 to buy me out of the warranty and then Mits would no longer be liable to me for any defects in workmanship; or 2) Mits would "upgrade" me to the 733 since it was a year newer.

I took the money. I figured by paying over $5K, with the service contract, I'd paid slightly over $1000 for the use of the TV for 2 years. Seemed a better deal.

Moral of my story I guess is Mits is pretty good about dispatching techs to try to fix the issues, so I have no problems with their customer service. In fact, I applaud it.

The real moral of the story is the lack of quality in the design to rectify what they have admitted to being a known issue. I had hoped they would address these issues with a new generation, but from your posts, it does not sound like the fix has been implemented.

I sit exactly 8' from my 65" WD65734. To quote Borat: "Is nice!"

That seems awefully close, but I think these ranges may apply differently to different people. My great room connects with my kitchen area which at tops is about 25 feet away from my 73734. I would have never known how much better 720p looked afar if it had not been for the space allowable by my kitchen area.

To sum up my point, I fear most people CAN'T even realize how much better their picture quality would be because of the limited amount of space they have to back up.

My wife and I wish we had a 65" or 57" as the 73" is so stinkin' big. And actually its not necessarily the 73" that bothers me necessarily its the fact that picture quality is sacrificed to some extent, at least on the 720p. Football on ESPN bothers me, because of the 720p broadcast which requires a much larger viewing distance for me personally.

Speaking of which, does anyone know why ESPN continues to broadcast in 720p and not 1080p?

I had been contemplating purchasing from the new line of Mits (specifically a 734) to replace my 2 year old 73927 as it has never been right, but the continued evidence of what people on this board experience as pincushioning is disturbing. I'm sorry to hear some folks are suffering from it with their new purchases, and in some cases, nothing can be done within the service menu. I thought things might have gotten better.

My 927's picture is still stunning at 1080i. When I called about the pincushioning on 4:3 when first purchased, Mits dispatched 2 different techs from 2 different companies. They were unable to affect the geometry of the picture through the service menus. Mits then dispatched the local sales rep for the Rocky Mountain area and he proceeded to tell me he saw the effect a lot and even experienced on his same model at home. So, I learned to live with it, quietly grumbling about having to spend so much money on a warped picture.

Another year into ownership, the built-in hard disk (DVR) stopped responding. It had apparently burned out. I didn't find this too disturbing as hard drives burn up all of the time. Okay, not within a year. Mits offered to replace the hard drive under warranty. But that replacement never showed up, because...

I received a call and a letter from Mits about a week later asking me to take one of two deals: 1) Take a check for $4000 to buy me out of the warranty and then Mits would no longer be liable to me for any defects in workmanship; or 2) Mits would "upgrade" me to the 733 since it was a year newer.

I took the money. I figured by paying over $5K, with the service contract, I'd paid slightly over $1000 for the use of the TV for 2 years. Seemed a better deal.

Moral of my story I guess is Mits is pretty good about dispatching techs to try to fix the issues, so I have no problems with their customer service. In fact, I applaud it.

The real moral of the story is the lack of quality in the design to rectify what they have admitted to being a known issue. I had hoped they would address these issues with a new generation, but from your posts, it does not sound like the fix has been implemented.

Interesting post. I have been playing with what I think is "pincushioning" in the service menu. There are 3 lines, one red, one green, and one white I think. I play with the plus sign and ff and rew buttons and have what I think good geometry.

By the way, what is 'pincushioning'?

I just had the 65734 set delivered today.. No noise(high pitched or otherwise), and the geometry is just a hair off.. I've yet to touch any of the settings at all. Like with the program guide on, a line in the middle of the tv will bow upwards less than 1/4" on each side.


I'm wondering how you change from 480i or 720p or whatever to a higher setting.. I don't have HD tv, just regular digital cable and the Onkyo HT-S894 with the upconverting DVD player(HDMI from player to reciever).. Still need another HDMI cable from the reciever to the TV though, everything else is RCA's at the moment.

My TV is on "480i stretch", and I can't seem to find out how to change it. There's just a couple different 480i settings, not any 720's or 1080's that i've seen so far..

I just had the 65734 set delivered today.. No noise(high pitched or otherwise), and the geometry is just a hair off.. I've yet to touch any of the settings at all. Like with the program guide on, a line in the middle of the tv will bow upwards less than 1/4" on each side.


I'm wondering how you change from 480i or 720p or whatever to a higher setting.. I don't have HD tv, just regular digital cable and the Onkyo HT-S894 with the upconverting DVD player(HDMI from player to reciever).. Still need another HDMI cable from the reciever to the TV though, everything else is RCA's at the moment.

My TV is on "480i stretch", and I can't seem to find out how to change it. There's just a couple different 480i settings, not any 720's or 1080's that i've seen so far..

The TV display shows the input source. You give it a 480i input, it will show "480i". Give it a 720p source, it shows "720p".

You can change among the available screen formats, e.g. the "stretch" mode, by pressing the "FORMAT" button on the remote.

Well that blurring underwater motion wasen't from me sitting to close (6 feet) from the 73 inch screen. The geometry is so concave that when the picture passes though that part of the screen (4:3 lines) the distortion appears. The lines can not get straight no matter what I do in the geometry settings. One is either a little off with the other being way off. Oh and my old 60 SXRD seems fine when viewing at only 6-8 feet away. It may be the technology throwing me off. I may just perfer LCOS over DLP...regardless BB is coming in a few days to pick it up and I'm only out $50 for the deliver charge. At least I got to demo it for a week or so.

The effect on my display is what appears only when 4:3 content is displayed. It does show on 16:9, but is harder to detect as the display fills the whole screen.

With 4:3 content, the black bars on the side bow/curve in on both sides. Now that I've noticed it on my set, I look at other Mits' with 4:3 content and see the same effect, some worse, some better than others. I believe the opposite effect, when the bars bow outward might be called flaring, but don't hold me to that; I didn't research that aspect since I don't suffer from it.

Pincushioning occurs with 16:9 content as well, but there have to be some vertically straight items in the scene to see the bowing effect.

The service menu I have allows for aiming the lenses (the crosshairs you refer to), adjusting keystone and a number of other options, but nothing for pincushioning.

I had been reading through the posts hoping to find if the latest models had remedied it, but it seems some still suffer pincushioning to varying degrees. I haven't found anyone posting it is correctable via the service menu, but then again I may have missed it? (there are a lot of posts, I may have missed one or two)

The effect on my display is what appears only when 4:3 content is displayed. It does show on 16:9, but is harder to detect as the display fills the whole screen.

With 4:3 content, the black bars on the side bow/curve in on both sides. Now that I've noticed it on my set, I look at other Mits' with 4:3 content and see the same effect, some worse, some better than others. I believe the opposite effect, when the bars bow outward might be called flaring, but don't hold me to that; I didn't research that aspect since I don't suffer from it.

Pincushioning occurs with 16:9 content as well, but there have to be some vertically straight items in the scene to see the bowing effect.

The service menu I have allows for aiming the lenses (the crosshairs you refer to), adjusting keystone and a number of other options, but nothing for pincushioning.

I had been reading through the posts hoping to find if the latest models had remedied it, but it seems some still suffer pincushioning to varying degrees. I haven't found anyone posting it is correctable via the service menu, but then again I may have missed it? (there are a lot of posts, I may have missed one or two)

I think I remember some sort of way to manipulate those 4:3 bars. I fixed mine to almost perfect but I cant remember how to do it.

Now I am frustrated because my father-in-law bought a 57" set and his 4:3 bars are way off.

I wish I could remember how I fixed mine.

I think I remember some sort of way to manipulate those 4:3 bars. I fixed mine to almost perfect but I cant remember how to do it.

Now I am frustrated because my father-in-law bought a 57" set and his 4:3 bars are way off.

I wish I could remember how I fixed mine.

If you end up remembering how, or being able to retrace what your father-in-law did, I'd love to know!

Greetings All! After many project delays to the build out of my home theater I'm finally approaching a point of calling it complete. After struggling between the 65833 & 65734 (120hz or not, basically) I've comitted to the 734, which I'm having delivered on the 19th. (Hurry up and wait!)

What I want to know is if it's necessary to allow the set to aclimatize to my room conditions before turning it on?

I'm replacing a Mit. 35" CRT that when delivered (in cold weather) it was suggested that I give it a few hours before turning it on. Possibly because it's tube based? I don't know. But I'm wondering if the same should be taken into consideration with RPTV's. And I'm also wondering if some of the reported problems (fan noise, bowing, etc) might be due to the sets being turned on as soon as delivered. Any thoughts?

I'm in St. Louis and it's pretty cold now but more importantly I don't know if the warehouse is climate controlled.

I'm replacing a Mit. 35" CRT that when delivered (in cold weather) it was suggested that I give it a few hours before turning it on. Possibly because it's tube based? I don't know. But I'm wondering if the same should be taken into consideration with RPTV's. And I'm also wondering if some of the reported problems (fan noise, bowing, etc) might be due to the sets being turned on as soon as delivered. Any thoughts?

I'm in St. Louis and it's pretty cold now but more importantly I don't know if the warehouse is climate controlled.

When my 73734 was delivered yesterday I let it sit for a few hours before I plugged it in and turned it on. We opened the box to make sure it wasn't physically damaged, and I figured it wasn't going to hurt it to wait. The chance I took was the tv not working, but even if it didn't since I bought it from amazon the delivery company wasn't taking it back with them anyway.

While I'm excited to be getting it I'm a very patient person so I won't be compelled to turn it on right away. But I thought it would be a good idea to bring it up here to help make sure.

While I'm excited to be getting it I'm a very patient person so I won't be compelled to turn it on right away. But I thought it would be a good idea to bring it up here to help make sure.

After I told the guys we were not plugging it in one of them said it was probably a good idea since they have seen the bulbs pop during the winter when they plug it in right away. Do not know how true that is but I guess it could be.

How are you liking it so far? Have you had a chance to modify any of the settings?

I think I remember some sort of way to manipulate those 4:3 bars. I fixed mine to almost perfect but I cant remember how to do it.

Now I am frustrated because my father-in-law bought a 57" set and his 4:3 bars are way off.

I wish I could remember how I fixed mine.

daniel and Wonka:
See the link and post below for guidance. In your case, focus on the 2 VERTICAL bars (after 16 fast fwd you get to the 4:3 vertical bar adjustment keep pressing ffwd or rew until you get both as straight as you can.

For the other keystone (+) adjustments, press Info to see the changes you made, Enter or Menu to save. Pressing Exit will get you out without saving.

It is confusing at the beginning, but after enough reading, analysis, and courage I was able to fix my minor geometric issues. If the screen itself is physically bowed/crooked, this will not work. Call Mits or return if you can.

*****************************
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11546564#post11546564

Mits Geometry Correction Instructions
Enter the Service Menu at your own risk.


- Press "menu"
- While on the menu screen press 2 4 5 7 wait 2 seconds then press 0
- You'll see 5 menu selections at the top of the screen
- Arrow down to "MANUAL KEYSTONE GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT" and press the "enter" button
- You will come to a black screen with overscan lines around the perimeter and two vertical lines at the 4:3 bar location
- Seeing this screen, you'll probably want to adjust the perimeter also which is the first part of these instructions. If not, read on through to the end which will get you to the 4:3 bar adjustment.
- There are adjustment points along the perimeter ("+" marks)
- The first point you're at when you arrive to the screen is the upper left corner
- Adjust that point (if needed) by pressing the up/down/left/right arrow keys in the direction you need that point to move to straighten any irregularities there. You won't see any of the lines move at this point, just the "+" pointer.
- You access the "+" points in a clockwise direction from the starting point by pressing "fast forward" (to the right of "play") on the remote to move to the next adjustment point. Adjust the pointer at the next point if needed in the same manner (up,down,left right) then on to the next point.
- "Fast Rewind" will move you backwards, point to point, headed back to the starting point.
- Since you don't see the results of your adjustments onscreen, you'll have to press "enter" which will return you to the Geometry menu screen, then "enter" again to get you back to the adjustment screen. Then you'll see the results. You'll be going back and forth like this quite a few times. NOTE: If you make an adjustment on a point and press "enter", that adjustment won't take. Make sure before you "enter" out to the menu, that you fast forward or rewind to the next point first.

- To adjust the two 4:3 vertical bars, "fast forward" all the way around to the starting point. Once there, you'll be in the 4:3 bar adjustment mode. The next "fast forward" press will make both 4:3 lines move. Just keep pressing "fast forward / rewind" until you get the bars straight as possible. Press "enter" to get back to the menu screen. If you are finished, press "exit".

That seems awefully close, but I think these ranges may apply differently to different people. My great room connects with my kitchen area which at tops is about 25 feet away from my 73734. I would have never known how much better 720p looked afar if it had not been for the space allowable by my kitchen area.

To sum up my point, I fear most people CAN'T even realize how much better their picture quality would be because of the limited amount of space they have to back up.

My wife and I wish we had a 65" or 57" as the 73" is so stinkin' big. And actually its not necessarily the 73" that bothers me necessarily its the fact that picture quality is sacrificed to some extent, at least on the 720p. Football on ESPN bothers me, because of the 720p broadcast which requires a much larger viewing distance for me personally.

Speaking of which, does anyone know why ESPN continues to broadcast in 720p and not 1080p?

I did a lot of research for TV viewing distance.

" A primary consideration for the viewing distance - based on SMPTE/THX and visual acuity guidelines - is that the nearest TV viewing distance should be limited to approximately twice the screen width (more precise 1.54 x screen width for a subtended angle of 36 degrees detailed by THX). On the other hand, the furthest distance should being no more than five times the width of your screen." - width of a 65inch TV = 58 inches.

and it comes down to the resolution that you are viewing. for HD you don't want to be too far because you wouldn't be able to enjoy the details visible at HD that you payed for. 8 feet is Mitsubishi's recommended distance from the WD-65734. this link helps you understand viewing distance vs. format.

http://www.carltonbale.com/2006/11/1080p-does-matter/

My tv was delivered on Monday, here is my quick review so far-

First off, I bought it from Tigerdirect.com, delivered by Yellow Truck.
I was not happy with the fact that Yellow never called me to set up a delivery time. I knew it was coming on Monday per their web site, but they never called me. On the delivery invoice it has my number on it and states to contact me prior to delivery. So, luckly my wife was home, but the guy was an ass. Not happy with Yellow.


On to the tv-
We went from a 4 year old 52" RCA to this 65" set. It's huge. I'm very glad we didn't buy the 73".

I have my cablebox from CableOne hooked up via comp. cables.

Settings-
I used the Cnet settings and I felt like it was a little too dark/dull for my taste. So I used them as a base line and tweaked the brightness/contrast/color and now it looks twice as good as it did when I first powered it on. Tweaking is MUST. If you leave the tv settings the way they came from factory, you're cheating yourself.

SD channels-
I'm not gonna sugar coat it,... the SD channels look ugly. U-G-L-Y.
I expected the 734 to look better than my RCA with the SD channels, but since the screen is larger it ends up looking worse. :(


HD channels-
HOLY CRAP! This is why I bought this tv. HD is INSANE! Once you tweak with the picture, make sure you have a mop handy to clean up all the drool from your guests. ;)
I just wish I had more than 8-10 HD channels,.....


Sound-
Ha! Sounds like its coming from a tin can. Hook up your sound system. If you have money for this tv, you have the money for a decent system.

Gaming-
Xbox 360 via HD comp. cables.
Very very nice. Plays perfect. Like the HD channels, the Xbox will make your jaw drop.

DVD playback-
I only used the DVD playback via the Xbox so far. And that was the first night before I tweaked any settings. So I need to test it again.
I watched part of Finding Nemo and found the colors to be a little dull and washed out. But like I said, this was before I tweaked the picture settings.

Remote-
It's starting to grow on me. The buttons are soft, too soft IMO. And,... why does only half of the remote light up? The numbers and the bottom buttons (pause, stop, rewind,.. ect) don't light up. Only the middle section of the remote lights up. Volume, channel up and down, enter button, menu,.. and some others. Hmmmm? Seems strange.

Problems-
None so far. I do hear that high pitch sound when I first power on the tv but it goes away in like,... 2-3 minutes,...
What it reminds me of is,.... older tube tvs,.. like 10-15 years ago. They made the same sound,... you could tell the tv was on from the next room. Does this make sense to anyone else? Or did I have crappy tvs while growing up?
BTW, my tv was made June 2007


Bottom line-
So,... overall I'm very happy with the tv. The SD channels look bad, but I bought this tv to last me 3-4 years. So over time we'll have less SD channels and more HD channels.
I'm really into gaming and they look and play great on this set.


Questions-
My cablebox has DVI output, if I hooked it up via a DVI to HDMI cable would that help my PQ? Would the SD look better?

Each input has name (ant. input 1, cablebox, game) is there any way to edit these names? I want to be able to name each input,.. Xbox,... Wii,... PS2,..
Is this possible?

Blu Ray or HD DVD? Heh heh,... okay. I won't go there. :D

Does anyone have a pic or pics of how the bars should look and where they should be placed after a proper manual keystone geometry alignment? You know, the yellow, green, white, and red colored bars? I've seen pics of some TVs with just the yellow, white, and green bars but mine shows the red bars too. If you have them, please post pics or a link to pics that show the proper alignment. Thanks.

On the 65734 does the digital out jack give you surround signal for all devices connected to the tv or just from the tv tuner itself?

I'm not gonna sugar coat it,... the SD channels look ugly. U-G-L-Y.

Which input are you using? I find that SD looks a lot better over s-video than it does using hdmi or component. In fact, sometimes I'll forget it's on s-vid and think it's HD. Of course, this is not true of all SD content, some of which still looks pretty crappy...

Bump

On the 65734 does the digital out jack give you surround signal for all devices connected to the tv or just from the tv tuner itself?

I believe it is just the tuner.

Does anyone have a pic or pics of how the bars should look and where they should be placed after a proper manual keystone geometry alignment? You know, the yellow, green, white, and red colored bars? I've seen pics of some TVs with just the yellow, white, and green bars but mine shows the red bars too. If you have them, please post pics or a link to pics that show the proper alignment. Thanks.


I would like the same

I believe it is just the tuner.

It is just the tuner. HDMI audio is converted to PCM stereo.

Hi folks,

so I know the set accepts 1080p/24 material, but I have not been able to confirm that it displays it in native 24fps.

so, I am wondering if I might have figured out how to tell.

I pop in the Eagles Melbourne concert in HD DVD via my Toshiba XA2 which is currently set to output in 1080p/24. As I am watching, it appears that the video is slightly stuttering-almost like a slow motion type of special effect. It dawns on me that this was probably shot in 1080p/60 HD video and not on film.

so I change the XA2 video output to be 1080p/60. Now the video moves at a normal pace and looks great.

I just curious if this is proof that the tv does indeed display material at 1080p/24?

Where does it say that in the manual? The way I read it all audio is up converted to digital and is available at the digital out jack as digital and all audio is down converted to PCM at the rca audio jacks as PCM stereo. Is this not correct? I guess I will go get a cable and try it. I hope it works cause this will save a bunch of extra cables to the receiver.

Where does it say that in the manual? The way I read it all audio is up converted to digital and is available at the digital out jack as digital and all audio is down converted to PCM at the rca audio jacks as PCM stereo. Is this not correct? I guess I will go get a cable and try it. I hope it works cause this will save a bunch of extra cables to the receiver.

From Appendix A: Specifications in the back of the owner's manual.

HDMI (digital video/audio)
EIA-861D standard for digital audio and video via HDMI
HDMI standard connector
Video: 60 Hz: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i
24 Hz, 30 Hz, 60 Hz: 1080p
Audio: PCM stereo

That seems awefully close, but I think these ranges may apply differently to different people. My great room connects with my kitchen area which at tops is about 25 feet away from my 73734. I would have never known how much better 720p looked afar if it had not been for the space allowable by my kitchen area.

To sum up my point, I fear most people CAN'T even realize how much better their picture quality would be because of the limited amount of space they have to back up.

My wife and I wish we had a 65" or 57" as the 73" is so stinkin' big. And actually its not necessarily the 73" that bothers me necessarily its the fact that picture quality is sacrificed to some extent, at least on the 720p. Football on ESPN bothers me, because of the 720p broadcast which requires a much larger viewing distance for me personally.


I helped a friend put up the 73732, and agreed, it is a BEAST. I thought about getting a 73734 to replace my 55" Mitsu Rear projection, but this post probably just saved me. My couch is about 12" away, but my rocking chair is off to the side about 8 feet. The 73" might be just too big for the room.

I helped a friend put up the 73732, and agreed, it is a BEAST. I thought about getting a 73734 to replace my 55" Mitsu Rear projection, but this post probably just saved me. My couch is about 12" away, but my rocking chair is off to the side about 8 feet. The 73" might be just too big for the room.

Another consideration that I took into account is what type of programming I'd be watching. I was initially considering a 57" for my 9' wide room, which seemed like enough tv especially considering it's an upgrade from my 35" direct view crt. Then I started thinking about aspect ratios and how much picture would be "lost" relative to screen size. So I looked at the 73" and the 65" and ultimately decided on the 65". Even with material at 2.35:1 it would still get me a nice size image (roughly 50") relative to my room size and seating distance.

Where can we buy parts for these damn things online? I would like to replace the fans to stop the humming and I have the part numbers and the service manual. However, Google gave me NOTHING when I searched for parts. Are they available online like they are with Samsung or is Mitsubishi being even more of a pain in the ass by not allowing consumers to buy parts?

I would like to replace the fans to stop the humming and I have the part numbers and the service manual.

Did you specifically have a problem with your fan or could it be the ballast/wire noise encountered by many Mitsu owners? If it could be the latter, there is now a Mitsubishi Service Bulletin out on it. Maybe you can get them to fix it for free under warranty. If not, the fix is discussed in post #808 of this thread by Hipnotiq.

Good luck!

Their website is: http://www.3diamonds.com
here is the whole thing NOTE: USE THE LITTLE ARROW BY HIS I.D. TO VIEW THE POST. THE WEB LINK DEAD ENDS AT A LOG IN SCREEN.

Thanks but I already tried that. I wonder if ADDING more ferrite beads would work. I busted the hell out of one of them so I ordered some replacements. Right now there are no ferrite beads on the wires at all, just electrical tape. Also, this fix only seems to affect the high pitched noise, not the humming noise. I'm wondering if it is the color wheel or not but the humming is there from the moment the TV is turned on until about 20 seconds after it is turned off. Does the color wheel begin spinning as soon as the TV is turned on? If not then that is not the issue.

I helped a friend put up the 73732, and agreed, it is a BEAST. I thought about getting a 73734 to replace my 55" Mitsu Rear projection, but this post probably just saved me. My couch is about 12" away, but my rocking chair is off to the side about 8 feet. The 73" might be just too big for the room.

In many cases, the only way to tell is to actually have the TV in the room. I'm sure the sellers aren't happy about this, but buyers could, in perfectly good faith, be buying and returning several TVs before they're done...

Does anyone have a pic or pics of how the bars should look and where they should be placed after a proper manual keystone geometry alignment? You know, the yellow, green, white, and red colored bars? I've seen pics of some TVs with just the yellow, white, and green bars but mine shows the red bars too. If you have them, please post pics or a link to pics that show the proper alignment. Thanks.

Here goes... taken in a rush.

Very minor bowing still left on top of 4:3 bars, but barely noticeable when watching.

BTW, are you still messing with the refurbished unit or did you get another set?

This is another set from a different store. Same ol' stuff, of course. Maybe I need to fire my gun next to my ear for an hour or so so I won't be able to hear the whining/humming anymore, LOL.

Thanks for posting that, BTW.

It is just the tuner. HDMI audio is converted to PCM stereo.

Well I tried a digital cable and as you all have said, just the tuner is surround and the rest is pcm. Why did they do it this way? Now I have to run extra cables from my sat, HDDVD and anything else that uses HDMI as my receiver has no HDMI jacks. So much for new standards and ease of use.

Quick stupid question. I got my 73734 up and running over the weekend and I hooked my 360 up via component and went in and switched the resolution in the 360 dashboard to 1080p however when the 360 switched resolution the TV just went to a blue screen. Does the 734 models only support 1080p through HDMI?

Quick stupid question. I got my 73734 up and running over the weekend and I hooked my 360 up via component and went in and switched the resolution in the 360 dashboard to 1080p however when the 360 switched resolution the TV just went to a blue screen. Does the 734 models only support 1080p through HDMI?

Yes, 1080i is the maximum input resolution supported over component, but 1080i gets converted to 1080p, of course.

Does anyone have any tips on calibration? I just got my 65734 and I've calibrated using the Cnet settings, which I know are set up for darkroom. So I kind of just brightened it up a bit. But Im not sure if im 100% satisfied with the settings. Granted they are much better than the settings out the box but Id like to see if I can get more. :D

Is there a settings thread out there or does anyone have any settings I can try out to see how well they work with my setup?

Check out the other Mits threads, 833, etc.

Here is what i copied from the forums and printed out for reference. This is the 833 though:

Originally Posted by richlo
These are the last and came out the best of my calibration

Natural
Con 47
Brigh 34
Color 31
Tint 33
Sharp 25
Color Temp Low
DFI Off

PC
M 37
R 37
Y 30
G 37
C 35
B 28

PT
M 26
R 24
Y 29
G 40
C 37
B 28

5. GGL 1024
6. GRL 1020
7. GBL 1000
53. BMB 1
57. CMG 96
58. CMR 108
59. CMB 101

http://www.htguys.com/archive/2007/April20.html
Calibration Settings:

* Contrast: 20
* Brightness: 30
* Color: 36
* Tint: 34
* Sharpness: 24
* Color Temperature: Low
* Picture Mode: Natural
* Video Noise Reduction: Off
* Sharp Edge: Off
* Deep Field: On

Perfect Color

* Magenta: 32
* Red: 24
* Yellow: 31
* Green: 46
* Cyan: 32
* Blue: 32

Perfect Tint

* Magenta: 47
* Red: 29
* Yellow: 29
* Green: 55
* Cyan: 46
* Blue: 28

Does anyone have any tips on calibration?...
I found it very helpful to do the horizontal and vertical alignment before doing the geometry alignment.

Question for the forum:

Where can I find documentation on these service menu adjustments:
5. GGL 1024
6. GRL 1020
7. GBL 1000
53. BMB 1
57. CMG 96
58. CMR 108
59. CMB 101
I have the service manual and didn't see anything about these.

Well after having my Tiger $1399 65734 sitting waiting to be plugged in for over a week I finally got my basement presentable for the thing. First impressions same as most others. This is out of the box no tweaking, in a light controlled room with current viewing distance at about 11 feet, final will be about 14 feet.
1) It ain't a plasma...but thats my taste I couldn't resist the price for this guy.
2) SD is really bad............barf!
3) I'm not crazy about watching sports on it....seems to have some ghosting and occasional blocky digital effect. I'll blame FOX and Optimum though. I'm viewing all sources through component at present while I wait for the HDMI cables to arrive from MONO.
4) HD movies through cable are terrific...really good...sometimes stunning
5) DVD's on standard DVD player with component hookups are ok but looked better on my 720 projector at 50% larger screen size. I'm guessing with an upconverting player it will look terrific.
6) The sound isn't bad its bizarre!! Sometimes theres a background whistle on some channels when voice levels peak. Just terrible.
7) I couldn't get my mind past that kind of glazzed screen look that DLP's have for the first couple of days of viewing. I'm warming up to it now.
8) Yep it's got some bowing....I'll play with that
9) I can't believe how light this thing is! Which is a dream cause I'm constantly fiddling around with inputs etc.
10)Physically it looks awesome! I have it on a relatively inexpensive gloss black and black glass stand which is exactly the same width as the TV. (Looks better than the Mits stand and $100 less.)
11) Can't wait to get the basement totally done and my Paradigms wrapped around the Mits to shake the house.
12) Really happy with it. I would buy it again or definately recommend it to others no question...................

Getting the WDY657 delivered on Thursday, I can't wait. I have the whole day off to screw around with the TV. Right now I will be hooking up a PS3 and HD cable box to it. I'm planning ons elling my OG Premium 360 in favor of an Elite so I can get 1080p from my HD-DVD add on (sucks there is no VGA port on the TV). However I do plan ong etting the Onkyo TX-SR605 later on down the line, so would I be better off getting a stand alone HD-DVD player? If so which one would you all reccomend. It seems obvious to get one that supports 1080p, but from what I've been reading most of the 1080p HD-DVD players don't work so well in 1080p unless they're in the 24p mode. Does this TV support 1080p/24? I see on the spec sheet that it does.... 1080p (24Hz, 30Hz, 60Hz) Yes. Anything else I should know about this TV? How does it hold up with ED? Is the DLP lag for non-1080p games that bad? Will there be a noticable difference between hookiping up a 1080i source with component over HDMI?

I'm still getting the humming noise from the moment I turn it on until 20 seconds or so after I turn it off.

If someone can answer this question for me, please do.

Does the color wheel begin spinning as soon as the TV is turned on or does it start spinning when the picture comes on? I'm trying to troubleshoot the humming noise and knowing when the color wheel begins spinning would help a lot.

Model 57734

Still can't get my flash drive to work on the TV USB.

Someone on this forum recommended using a DataTraveler stick. Still no luck.

Went to Ultimate Electronics and tried both my DaneElec and DataTraveler memory stick on the floor model and they didn't work on that either.

Can anyone else recommend a flash drive that seems to work on this exact model?

Thanks!

I have a Sandisk Cruzer 1GB (older gray body) that works just fine on my 57734, if that's what you're asking?

I have a Sandisk Cruzer 1GB (older gray body) that works just fine on my 57734, if that's what you're asking?

Yeah, basically.

I'd like to be able to take digital pics that I've cropped, fixed red eye, adjusted color, etc. and slideshow them on the TV.

But from what I've read, maybe you can only view raw photos that have not been adjusted at all.

Can you view edited pics with your Sandisk?

Thanks!

Greg

I'm still getting the humming noise from the moment I turn it on until 20 seconds or so after I turn it off.

If someone can answer this question for me, please do.

Does the color wheel begin spinning as soon as the TV is turned on or does it start spinning when the picture comes on? I'm trying to troubleshoot the humming noise and knowing when the color wheel begins spinning would help a lot.

check out this thread...there is a fix. You don't need to trouble shoot it:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=900295

I went to BB yesterday for a last minute comparison between the Mit rear pro technology and LCD technology before I take delivery of my 734 next week. I pretty much expected to have to make this comparison using the regular loop being fed through the store. Well, while I did have to use the store loop, to my suprise I discovered that they were running a new loop. At least new for St. Louis anyway. I realize how silly it is to offer comment on a store loop but oh well...Wow! In a lot of ways it was the same type of content but one point of significance to me was the new spot running about reproducing blacks. LCD's have been making some improvements in this regard but then reality hit. I was in Magnolia comparing a Mit DLP with the Samsung on the wall just above it and this spot came on with a samurai sword and a figure in a black robe with a black background. Forget "not being in the same ballpark." The Sammy wasn't even in the same sport compared to the Mit. I had been watching the loop for a while and pretty much found the differences between the pictures to be negligible. Until I saw this loop anyway. And let me add that as far as loop feeds are concerned...I've never seen one more pristine. And I was floored to find that the feed was coming in via Coax!!! As the loop continued I started to look around at the rest of the tv's and going back to the Mit (harder to make comparisons this way) but there wasn't anything there that I felt truly competed with the Mit. (except for the Pioneer Plasma). Everything else seemed to have this haze on the screen. This really made, in my opinion, an overwhelming argument in favor of the Mit technology. And to further the argument a little while later a spot ran about the 2008 Summer Olympics. It was a truly effective demonstration of how vibrant the colors can look on this set. Stunning!!! I know what's being said about "red push" but nothing else there popped like the Mit. As an Olympic nut I am truly excited to see the Mit in action next year since all of the games will be presented in HD.

So for anyone on the fence with concerns about the picture quality that this set is capable of...don't be. I went to the store with the intent of isolating the flaws compared to the LCD technology and I found none. I have been going through this process for a long while now during the build out of my basement and I can't even say that I've EVER seen this set look this good, at any store. It actually has me wondering if I was looking at an improved model or one with possibly a firmware update. Whatever it was it was hands down SPECTACULAR!!!

But that's just my opinion:D

Getting the WDY657 delivered on Thursday, I can't wait. I have the whole day off to screw around with the TV. Right now I will be hooking up a PS3 and HD cable box to it. I'm planning ons elling my OG Premium 360 in favor of an Elite so I can get 1080p from my HD-DVD add on (sucks there is no VGA port on the TV).

I don't think you'll see any difference in the 360 Premiums 1080i over component and the Elite's HDMI 1080p. I have the WDY657 and thought I'd need to upgrade my XBOX 360 also. After seeing the HD-DVD of King Kong and Corpse Bride, and various games with the Premium's component 1080i, I changed my mind. But as I've been told by someone else here, "ignorance is bliss".:D

Here goes... taken in a rush.

Very minor bowing still left on top of 4:3 bars, but barely noticeable when watching.

BTW, are you still messing with the refurbished unit or did you get another set?

Pray tell, how in the world did you get those lines so perfect (your picture wouldnt transfer to post #1111 above)? My dots stop moving at certain points when in reality they need to go further. Its like the tv will not let me get it right as if there is some barrier or line the dots cannot get past.

I can see a little bowing in your top line but its way, way better than mine. I can only get the outside-most line, the pink one, to show on the left side and on the bottom. When I try and adust the others the little dots will not go past a certain point.

But I really dont know the ramifications of improper geometry alignment. I dont seem to be able to tell when I watch tv. So I wonder if it is really affecting my pic quality.

Can anyone tell me if the WDY657 supports 24p?

Can anyone tell me if the WDY657 supports 24p?

Yes

Yeah, basically.

I'd like to be able to take digital pics that I've cropped, fixed red eye, adjusted color, etc. and slideshow them on the TV.

But from what I've read, maybe you can only view raw photos that have not been adjusted at all.

Can you view edited pics with your Sandisk?

Thanks!

Greg

No, it seems to only work with "original" pics out-of-camera. I dumped some edited photos on the Sandisk and it would not show them. Strange. Anyone know a work around for this? I just use my DVD Player (has card reader), Wii or PS3 for the same function so it's no big deal but would love to get it to work with all photos.

I Like this tv and want to buy it but 1 thing concerns me.

It seemed in the stores, (and I went to about 4 different stores)
that the 65734 and the WDY657 has a pretty bad viewing angle. The Sony's and Toshiba's etc. Other DLP's had much better viewing angles. Is this a known issue with the Mitsubishi's? Or just the stores fault for not having them set up properly?

I want the buy the 65734 but I need something with good viewing angles.
The Toshiba 65HM167 and the Sony A3000 etc, And other DLPs had twice the viewing angle of the Mitsubishi's.

Dont want the other tvs mentioned I want the Mitsubishi but I need to figure out what is going on with their viewing angles first????

Stores fault or?

Has anybody out there purchased or looked into purchasing the 734 (or any tv for that matter) as an open box item?

I have a 734 being delivered early next week but I do have a chance to purchase an open box set as a considerably better deal (over and above the great deal I got new in box). The story is that the set wouldn't fit in the home where needed. Full warranty and I'll check bulb hours before purchasing but for an additional $300 or so savings....does it make sense? I'd appreciate your opinions.

Has anybody out there purchased or looked into purchasing the 734 (or any tv for that matter) as an open box item?

I have a 734 being delivered early next week but I do have a chance to purchase an open box set as a considerably better deal (over and above the great deal I got new in box). The story is that the set wouldn't fit in the home where needed. Full warranty and I'll check bulb hours before purchasing but for an additional $300 or so savings....does it make sense? I'd appreciate your opinions.

$300 isn't much. A friend got the 73732 earlier this year when it was listed for $3500 for $2500. You can always talk them down on open box things. I got a 55" Mitsu a few years back for the store's cost - they just wanted it out. Can't hurt to ask instead of just taking them at the their price.

Has anybody out there purchased or looked into purchasing the 734 (or any tv for that matter) as an open box item?

I have a 734 being delivered early next week but I do have a chance to purchase an open box set as a considerably better deal (over and above the great deal I got new in box). The story is that the set wouldn't fit in the home where needed. Full warranty and I'll check bulb hours before purchasing but for an additional $300 or so savings....does it make sense? I'd appreciate your opinions.

I wouldn't buy this tv open box for $300.00 less. Here's why. The TV is AMAZING. IMO the only reason someone returns this TV is if they have the whine problem. If the TV is on in the store then the lamp life has been reduced.

I hear what you both are saying but let me clarify a couple of things. First, $300 less doesn't mean $300 less than retail. I don't necessarily want to put price out there so just think in terms of $300 less than whatever price you'd be comfortable paying. Secondly, it's not a floor item and the return reason was supposedly because it was too big. Now I realize that might not be the whole story and have thought about the whine issue. Having said that the tv would still fall under the stores normal return policy and the tv would still have it's full warranty.

Secondly, it's not a floor item and the return reason was supposedly because it was too big. Now I realize that might not be the whole story.... Having said that the tv would still fall under the stores normal return policy and the tv would still have it's full warranty.

I don't normally like buying open box, unless there is a REALLY good deal to be had. Having said that, you would think this set would have significantly fewer hours on it than a typical floor model. (You can check, if you can have it plugged in and get into the service menu). If all that aligns, and you really are getting a great deal to begin with (I just got mine for $1399 new); it sounds worth pursuing.

It occurred to me later, you never mentioned what size TV you were looking at. From a price reference stand point, mine is a 65734.

Let me add my $3.50 here.

My 57734 arrived via Yellow Freight on Wednesday. I wanted to wait until the weekend (today) to open and set everything up. I bought the TV via ShopNBC and it came with a stand and upscaling DVD at a good price.

Wednesday I opened the DVD player to get a few 1080i DVDs in, and today put the stand together, and with my nephew, opened the 57734 box and put it on the stand. Looked good. THEN, we noticed a nice LONG crack down the whole right plastic. Anger is putting it mildly. I bought this thing on 11/24.

I called Shopnbc, got good customer service. Found out the vendor is Tiger Direct, and I have to wait on an RMA before calling Yellow Freight to come and take this thing back. One thing I noticed is that I want to get a 65", so I'll either go with 65734 or another brand. This was just a good price.

Lesson learned: open the box and take out the TV while shippers are there. If you have a chance at an open box, if you can get the extended warranty, good price, etc., go for it.

I just bought the 73" WD-73734 at a local shop. It is to replace a 60" Sony A2000 TV which I have sold to a family member.

Its going in a larger room so we wanted a larger screen so I thought this mits would do the trick. It is scheduled to be delivered next week.

My question is -- does this newer Mits TV have true 1080p with no wobbiltin effect? How well does it handle SD DirecTV feeds; I have their ew HD package but still watch about 30% SD TV still. Will this TV equal if not be better at HD then my older A2000?

Lastly has any one also looked at the Platinum line - is it really that much better?

any input is very welcome
thank you in advance
John

I just bought the 73" WD-73734 at a local shop. It is to replace a 60" Sony A2000 TV which I have sold to a family member.

Its going in a larger room so we wanted a larger screen so I thought this mits would do the trick. It is scheduled to be delivered next week.

My question is -- does this newer Mits TV have true 1080p with no wobbiltin effect? How well does it handle SD DirecTV feeds; I have their ew HD package but still watch about 30% SD TV still. Will this TV equal if not be better at HD then my older A2000?

Lastly has any one also looked at the Platinum line - is it really that much better?

any input is very welcome
thank you in advance
John

We have Directv and a 73734. In my opinion SD looks ok at best. No worse then my hitachi 65s700 we used to have, but I try to avoid sd at all costs. Ill watch bad shows in hd just because I can not stand SD

We have Directv and a 73734. In my opinion SD looks ok at best. No worse then my hitachi 65s700 we used to have, but I try to avoid sd at all costs. Ill watch bad shows in hd just because I can not stand SD

thanks for the info

would you buy the TV again? Do you have any issues or "wish" it did/looked ....?

how does the DirecTV HD content look, does have typical pixel blocking during motion?


i'm just curious if the "better" 833 series but due to cost I'd have to get the 65" (which is actually cheaper then the 734 at 73" )


again thanks
John

thanks for the info

would you buy the TV again? Do you have any issues or "wish" it did/looked ....?

how does the DirecTV HD content look, does have typical pixel blocking during motion?


i'm just curious if the "better" 833 series but due to cost I'd have to get the 65" (which is actually cheaper then the 734 at 73" )


again thanks
John

I've only had the TV up and running for a little over a week but yeah I would buy it again. I have not seen any pixel blocking on Directv HD or any HD-DVD movies so far. My set still needs to be calibrated, but I think it looks better then the Hitachi we had before especially when playing the xbox 360.

My biggest complaints about the TV so far are: The speakers are awful and I hate that to change inputs you have to pull up that menu and thats causing some issues with my Harmony remote that I'm still working out. Minor complaint no cable card slot, no vga, no firewire like my Hitachi had, but if i really needed that I would have bought another tv.

Just bought the 57 " 734 series from ABC warehouse. Went to circuit city and bestbuy and they wouldn't match amazons price. Went into ABC told the guy I what I wanted. Showed him the online price, he went to talk to his manager and offered me the tv for $1399! What a steal! Its upstairs in the box, I'm letting it warm up before i bring it downstairs while i take my friend his truck back.

Wow, so after unboxing it and getting everything plugged in. I played spiderman 3 on my samsung 1400, and i must say the picture, straight out of the box is unbelievable. Reds are RED, blues are BLUE. It's unbelievable. The set does have a slight humming going on. But IMO, its not THAT bad and in no way is a distraction.

Wow, so after unboxing it and getting everything plugged in. I played spiderman 3 on my samsung 1400, and i must say the picture, straight out of the box is unbelievable. Reds are RED, blues are BLUE. It's unbelievable. The set does have a slight humming going on. But IMO, its not THAT bad and in no way is a distraction.


Great to know its working for you...


keep us up to date as to how it performs on all media type (SD, HD, HD-DVD or Blu if you have...)

I'm still awaiting the 73" version (73744)

BUT starting to worry about DLP short comings

I just found the Cnet recommended settings and tried them out. It made a great picture even better. As of one day of owning this tv, I have no regrets what so ever over picking this up instead of the SonyA3000, which were the main two sets I was looking at. I got a tv with a picture on par if not better than the a3000 for, much, much less. I'm just thrilled.

I don't normally like buying open box, unless there is a REALLY good deal to be had. Having said that, you would think this set would have significantly fewer hours on it than a typical floor model. (You can check, if you can have it plugged in and get into the service menu). If all that aligns, and you really are getting a great deal to begin with (I just got mine for $1399 new); it sounds worth pursuing.

It occurred to me later, you never mentioned what size TV you were looking at. From a price reference stand point, mine is a 65734.


I'm talking about the 65734. I've decided to go ahead and give it a shot. The unit is not a floor model and it is boxed up in the warehouse. The story is supposedly that it was too big when the original purchaser got it in the house. On one hand, the tv is bigger than it appears in big open store and a person might tend to think it will work out size wise. However, OTOH you'd kind of think that if you are considering a 65" you'd be a bit more aware of the size upfront. In that case is it a situation of possibly opting for flat panel technology or dare I say...problems? If so, there is a full warranty and I won't hesitate to return it if there is a problem.

I've decided to go ahead and give it a shot. The unit is not a floor model and it is boxed up in the warehouse. or dare I say...problems? If so, there is a full warranty and I won't hesitate to return it if there is a problem.

I say go for it. If the price is great, full warranty, ability to return if problems, I'd buy it. I'd be sure the warranty covers everything. Enjoy! :)

From the owner's guide that covers the series/models below, there's one part number for the lamp replacement, so I believe it's interchangeable between the series mentioned, all sizes. Don't know about the 831/833.

Owner's Guide covers:
C Series
WD-C657
Y Series
WD-Y577, WD-Y657
733 Series
WD-57733, WD-65733, WD-73733
734 Series
WD-57734, WD-65734, WD-73734

Thanks, I appreciate the info. :)

I have the 57734 and my TV is 10' away from my futon. While I could've gone bigger (65"), I'm happy w/ the 57" at that distance. Heck, I can see the scrolling sports score ticker on ESPN while I'm seated at my kitchen table, which is another 10-12' behind the futon (toward the kitchen). :cool:

I have the 57734 and my TV is 10' away from my futon. While I could've gone bigger (65"), I'm happy w/ the 57" at that distance. Heck, I can see the scrolling sports score ticker on ESPN while I'm seated at my kitchen table, which is another 10-12' behind the futon (toward the kitchen). :cool:

Interesting that you mention this distance because I remember reading somewhere that the 734 actually views a little better from a couple of feet beyond the "recommended" 7'-8' distance. Has this been your experience? I'll have the 65" at 13'.

You heard correct....as a matter of fact, the ONLY way to get the settings to take is to hit the INFO button after each movement, do NOT go to the main menu, that means it did not register. The lines will move and you can see them move after hitting the INFO button. Mine was pretty good, but definately needed adjustment. The 4:3 lines are the most frustrating, you can not get it perfect, but close enough.

Thanks for the post, It was a big help.

What is supposed to be seen in the keystone adjustment screen.
Mine has green and yellow lines all around except for the right side which has a white line as well.
Does this set have a demo mode.
Also anyone looking for a 73734 stand tvsdepot.com has them for 399.00 delivered.

Hi,
I have new WD-73734. This morning during Good morning America that was broadcasting in 1080i standard 4:8 I had a thin green line at the edge of the picture and pillar on the left side.
Later I was doing some A/V receiver set-up and had the Matrix standard DVD in my Toshiba HD-A2 and I had a blue line running from top to bottom of the pillar on the right side of the screen (480P 4:8). It was still there when I stopped the movie. I then put in The Bourne Ultimatum and have no color line. Currently I'm watching National Geographic HD. It is being broadcast in 720P 4:8 and I have the pillar box bars set to black. There is no line showing on either side. Why do I have a colored line in Pillar box sometimes?? :confused:

Other than this I am tickled to death with the TV. I keep going back to out of the box color settings because they seem to be a happy medium for different broadcasts. I could use a refresher on how to access the service menu though as I may try to correct the pincushioning on the vertical and horizontal. Any help on either of these issues is appreciated.:)

Thanks, Randy

..

Has anyone gotten a professional calibration on their '734 yet? If so, I'd like to know what settings you're using.

I've had my 734 hooked up for a little over a week now. I was fortunate to score it on tigerdirect.com for $1399.00 out the door during black friday. Trucking service (I believe it was Yellow Trucking) wasn't as pro as I'd I would have liked but it got here in one piece - no issues.

Okay, so what do I think? I've been reading this board for the past few days ....members talking about how incredible the picture is. I cannot agree more. I am a true believe of Mitsu DLP's. My friends and family cannot believe how great it it. I calibrated based on CNET's specs although I bumped brightness/contract a bit because I think they tuned it for no lights. It's an incredible viewing experience in HD (although I have to agree that SD isn't great). I want to watch everything over again. I catch myself watching stupid show....just because it's incredible how good the picture is.

I've been eyeballing the large screen TV market for a few months now ...seen Sony XBR's, Pioneer Elite's, High end LG, Panasonic, and Samsung, etcetera. I have to say, for the price this TV cannot be matched.

I had read on other boards the humming complaints but I don't notice an issue with my unit. You do hear a slight hum right when you turn it on but that's about it. I've also read complaints about the speakers. I don't use the speakers on the TV at all. That's what my center channel is for on my 7.1 AVR. I wouldn't want to use the TV's speakers (good, bad, or great) since I have home theater grade audio setup. I suppose the other argument of using DLP versus plasma or LCD is the form factor or depth. We have a cavity in our wall for a wall unit or similar and this unit (<16" deep) fits perfectly so the depth variable wasn't an issue for us.

I do have a technical problem I have not been able to resolve yet. I'm running DISH HD, Sony 400-disc carousel (HDMI), Sony HD Camcorder (HDMI), and a HTPC (HDMI). The DVD player, HTPC, and satellite receiver works great. However, I cannot get the TV to autosense the camcorder. I've swapped the cable (both were new Sony cables out of the box). I've tried the camcorder in all four HDMI ports - still no go. The cable is actual mini-HDMI from the camcorder to HDMI on the TV. I've sent all the details to tech support and called them but my first experience sucked. I got some chick who didn't know **** and all I could get from her is her rushing to get off the phone. She said I should go talk to Sony. I've read the Sony camcorder manual and been through every configuration setting and there is nothing I can find that would prevent it from working (like I need to force enable the mini-HDMI port or something). In fact, component, composite, and USB all work when connected.....just not HDMI. Is there a way to manually add a HDMI component on the TV? Auto-sense just doesn't seem to work with the camcorder. Any insight here would be greatly appreciated. I cannot wait to see x.v.color technology in actioin (since both the TV and camcorder support it) with a good quality Sony 1.3 HDMI cable!

Thanks. -Bobby

Last piece for me is a battery backup for my 57734.

Does anyone know if this would suffice?

http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=1186603

What would be the minimum requirements?

I read somewhere that it should be 300 watt min. and 500 VA.

But I don't even know what VA stands for :o

Last piece for me is a battery backup for my 57734.

Does anyone know if this would suffice?

http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=1186603

What would be the minimum requirements?

I read somewhere that it should be 300 watt min. and 500 VA.

But I don't even know what VA stands for :o
hmmm maybe I'm wrong but that UPS system is great for a DVR - but needing a UPS on a RPTV is going to take more then a 500VA unit. Since the lamp in our set is a high current draw. I would say anything less then 1500VA will not work - even then I can't say for sure. What is the current load of our sets?

hmmm maybe I'm wrong but that UPS system is great for a DVR - but needing a UPS on a RPTV is going to take more then a 500VA unit. Since the lamp in our set is a high current draw. I would say anything less then 1500VA will not work - even then I can't say for sure. What is the current load of our sets?

At the place I bought my TV, they sell a Monster battery backup.

I believe it's this one.

http://www.beachaudio.com/Monster-Cable/Mphtups500-p-54054.html

That one says it's 360W and 600VA.

I think the Monster model will automatically shut down the TV, but I was wondering if another brand with comparable load capacity would suffice.

I just saw that Paul's Tv in Los Angeles is selling the WD-65733 for $999. I am going to pick one up tonight.

I do have a technical problem I have not been able to resolve yet. I'm running DISH HD, Sony 400-disc carousel (HDMI), Sony HD Camcorder (HDMI), and a HTPC (HDMI). The DVD player, HTPC, and satellite receiver works great. However, I cannot get the TV to autosense the camcorder. I've swapped the cable (both were new Sony cables out of the box). I've tried the camcorder in all four HDMI ports - still no go. The cable is actual mini-HDMI from the camcorder to HDMI on the TV. I've sent all the details to tech support and called them but my first experience sucked. I got some chick who didn't know **** and all I could get from her is her rushing to get off the phone. She said I should go talk to Sony. I've read the Sony camcorder manual and been through every configuration setting and there is nothing I can find that would prevent it from working (like I need to force enable the mini-HDMI port or something). In fact, component, composite, and USB all work when connected.....just not HDMI. Is there a way to manually add a HDMI component on the TV? Auto-sense just doesn't seem to work with the camcorder. Any insight here would be greatly appreciated. I cannot wait to see x.v.color technology in actioin (since both the TV and camcorder support it) with a good quality Sony 1.3 HDMI cable!

Thanks. -Bobby
I would suggest testing the camcorder on another HDMI device to make sure it is working.
I had a Sony camcorder a few years ago that had a 1394 output, but I never got it to work.

I just saw that Paul's Tv in Los Angeles is selling the WD-65733 for $999. I am going to pick one up tonight.

Now that sounds like one of those car dealer "Bait and Switch" ads, get you in the store to only find out it's sold, out of stock, etc and then sell you something else.....

What you really need the power supply for is to keep the fan running when the power goes off so the bulb doesn't burn up. If you have lightning storms you need to unplug your system completly to be on safe side.


BIll

The risk to the lamp without the fan running is minimal and should not be a concern unless it happens very frequently. Even then, the frequent restarts would be much more likely to cause premature lamp failures.

Unplugging the set only helps if you disconnect all signal lines into the set as well as th power. All sets should be protected with good basic surge suppression that covers all signal lines into the system, IME.

I catch myself watching stupid show....just because it's incredible how good the picture is.

That had me cracking up. I've had my 73734 for 3 months now and I still catch myself watching stooopid shows on HD. lol.

I just "up-graded" from a 60" A2000 Sony to a 73" 73734 Mitsubishi

we sit about 13ft away and watch mostly HD sources thanks to DirecTV and Blu-Ray

I know there is about 2+ years between them in technology so its not fair to compare them. BUT I will :-) Let me say that I never really liked DLP as to me it was not as "real" looking compared to a LCD RPTV. That and I am very Sony Biased...

But since Sony didn't offer a bigger SXRD in the sub $3k range anyway - I started to look at DLP and settled on the 6 color wheel system from Mits. I have only had this set for about 2 weeks now and have watch a range of low quality SD to BLU Ray movies. Thus far I am very pleased with how it handles all sources. Microblocking seems about the same as with my Sony, which was great (I assume its better with this new set since it is 13" bigger I asume it would show more microblocked motion then a smaller set??? maybe my logic is flawed) Blacks seem GREAT but not as good as the Sony - but again very close (in the Mits corner I do have to say detail seems higher even though the blacks might not).

Also RBE is only an issue with credits it seems; which is fine.

I didn't buy the extended protection plan with the Sony - but I think tomorrow I'll add the 5 year plan to this set. The whole color wheel makes me nervous and then the 2+ million little motorized mirrors - well to me it still seems like the whole thing should not even work! And I am Computer Tech - Ha! LOL

I did look at the Samsung 70+" LED DLP's which seem to only be available via internet ordering. It's colors seemed more computerized to me and less life like then with the Mitsubishi design -- again I think this is a personal view point.


At the end of the day I would re-buy the 73734 in a heart beat! If you have any questions let me know!


John

I don't buy extended warranty's on anything, and I've been very lucky as it would have been a waste of money on things I've bought in the past(I've been lucky no lemons)but after reading this forum for 3 weeks before we bought our 65 mits, and seeing some of the problems people had I broke my own rules and did buy the EW for this purchase. I really hope I won't need it.:cool:

I just picked up a 57734 yesterday and I'm pretty impressed so far. I had a 2-year-old 52" JVC HD-ILA prior to this and 1080p is a huge difference from 720p. I paid $2000 for my JVC two years ago, and only $1250 for this TV. I got tv, stand, and 3-year warranty for $2000 at HHgregg.

I have noticed a lot of the issues I read about in this thread though. There is significant pincushioning on the sidebars for 4:3 content, and the letterboxing bars are sloping upwards at the corners for 2:40 content. There is also a dark smudge-like mark on the screen that's very noticeable when there is a light-colored image on the screen. When I pause playback and look at the screen closely, the spot appears to be rainbow colored.

The fan also seems to be louder than it should. My JVC was really loud and that was one of the reasons I decided to get a new TV. I don't get the high-pitched whine like some have gotten with this set, but the sound of the fan is penetrating even with surround sound on. I think it's been giving me a headache. I'm going to have a technician come out and look at all of this as soon as I can.

Oh, and the speakers really are horrible. Absolutely horrific. It sounds like I'm listening through a tin can at the end of a string. Still, the picture is amazing. This is my third HD set in 5 years and I didn't think I could be blown away by HD anymore. This set is worth the imperfections, especially considering the price.

You folks helped me out last time....

Back again....

My 73734 just got back from the shop with a noisy fan. That problem has been solved.

Now, we are seeing a light purple horizontal line (almost 2 per screen) scrolling through the picture in black or channel changing settings when using composite (no HDMI) connections.

TV shop could not find an issue, cable co. (Cox) sez, it is the TV.... Help....

Hooked up a DVD player (composite) and no lines. PC via HDMI, no issues.

Does this set have a simple remote menu command to bring up how many hours are on the bulb?

Mits 73734


thanks in advance,
John

Yes just press MENU 2470, it will be on the bottom left.


Bill

If this is in the wrong forum, please move it mods. I didn' know if this was a tv or receiver problem.

Anyways, I just recently purchased this set. Occasionally its having problems handling the HDMI out from my receiver (dennon avr887). My 360 is connected to my receiver via component and and optical at 720p, ps3 via hdmi at 1080p, hd dvd player hdmi at 1080p and cable box via component and optical at 1080i. Everything is being outputted via hdmi to the tv. Now the problem is that every now and then when i turn on the tv and receiver the tv will not receive the signal. I have to keep switching the inputs on the receiver (360, ps3, hddvd) until i can get the correct source to appear on the tv, this can take up to 5-10 "cycles" till the picture shows up. I had no troubles at all with this setup with my sony lcd rp. So its leading me to beleive that its the tv and not receiver. Has anyone elses done this? and is there an easy fix?
Thanks.

After a new cable TV cable and new Belkin Power strip the lines are gone and the unit is awesome.

Thanks for everyone's previous posts and comments.

Yes just press MENU 2470, it will be on the bottom left.

This is to check bulb life? I must be missing something - nothing happens when I press numbers after menu...

After my 73" is off all night, it defaults to the Antennae input when I turn it on the next day. Is there a way to make the HDMI the "default startup input"? I've went to Menu>Inputs and turned off all the inputs except for HDMI. The problem is Antennaes 1 and 2 are not "grayed out", although they show "off". What am I missing? How can I disable them? Thanks!

Opus 312 you have to press Menu and the # fast.




Bill

Hi,
I have read several posts recently from people that have Mitsu's built in December that have no fan noise. I purchased my WD-73734 in November and the fan hum is noticeable at low volume and in adjacent rooms. I know it's the fan because it remains constant after the TV is turned off and quits 30 seconds or so after being turned off.
I know they came up with a fix for the ballast ferrite bead noise, but has anyone heard of a fix for the fan humming?? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Randy:)

Yep, my 73" just got back from the shop and the fan was replaced. Almost silent now.

Good luck.

Yes just press MENU 2470, it will be on the bottom left.

This is to check bulb life? I must be missing something - nothing happens when I press numbers after menu...

Opus 312 you have to press Menu and the # fast.

Ok, tried it again, got this:
Initialize
Power Restore: Off
Production Mode: Off
Digital Signal Strength: N/A

Must be missing something?

Ok, tried it again, got this:
Initialize
Power Restore: Off
Production Mode: Off
Digital Signal Strength: N/A

Must be missing something?

You did it right. There should be a number on the bottom left of the screen with no description. That should be the hours.

Hello All,

Since taking delivery of my 65734 on 12/19 and giving it a little break in time and giving myself some time to experiment with the settings I thought I'd report my thoughts so far.

First of all, there is noticable fan noise with my set, which included a whine. After a couple of weeks the whine seems to have gone away but I can still hear the fan. However, my room is rather narrow, which I think only accentuates the noise along with the fact that I think because of this forum I'm conditioned to listen for it. When focusing on what I'm watching though I can't really say it's a distraction, especially when listening at normal volume levels.

I agree with everyone about the speakers; however, after boosting up the bass I find it to be very tolerable.

I have an HD package through D* and my HR21 is connected to the tv via HDMI. I also have an SD DVD player (Denon) connected to the tv via component. The dvd (component) has been calibrated with the THX Optimizer and the satellite (HDMI) has been calibrated by "me", which I'll mention shortly. Because the tv is really made for HD I won't spend much time talking about my dvd performance but to say that with my player and connections it is very good and looks better than SD broadcast programming. The picture is clear with good detail, as far as SD goes, no jitter and good color saturation. Satellite performance is relative to the programming being watched but for HD it is exceptional while most SD is watchable. Blacks are strong and I see a lot of depth and shadow detail. Colors are vibrant and robust and the picture is ridiculously clear. I've seen no RBE's at all and the SSE is hardly worth mentioning. I did have some very noticable pincushioning and bowing but after minor service menu tweaking pincusioning is almost gone (and it doesn't matter with HD programming anyway) and bowing is very, very slight.

For my calibration adjustments I've experimented with those posted on this thread and ultimately felt that I could get things to pop and blend a bit more. So with that I looked at my settings for the component dvd with contrast up to 63 and brightness down to 6 and made those same adjustments on the satellite HDMI. My other settings at that point were pretty close to those posted by CNET. The picture was very dark so I gradually increased the brightness (settling at 10, then 15 and so on) and in doing so things really started to look good. With that I made the following adjustments.

Picture mode: Natural
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 30 (Still experimenting here but definitely won't be going any brighter. I think I'll end up in the low 20's.)
Color: 51
Tint: 31
Sharpness: 32
Color Temp: Low
Deep Field Imager: On (Disagree with reports on this one)

Perfect Color/Tint
Magenta: 24/55
Red: 23/24
Yellow: 31/45
Green: 29/40
Cyan: 38/37
Blue: 26/45

Video Noise: Low
Video Mute: Off
Film Mode: On
Sharp Edge: Off
Lamp: Standard

I feel that these settings give me the best "across the board" picture for the different programming that I watch. I'm very satisfied the overall color pallete that this produces; however, I'm not sure how I feel about the reproduction of yellow's and orange's yet. The challenge is consistent programming to compare against for example, yesterday watching football games: bright outdoor games vs. dome games vs. analyst reports in studio lighting. Then take those settings against HBO or something and trying to find that happy medium. But again, overall I'm pretty happy with these current settings. Reds, greens and blue's really pop and whites are bright and clear and blacks are deep.

I'd be happy to know what other's thoughts are or explain my reasonings a bit further to those who are interested. Bottom line, I'm extremely happy with this set. Thanks for reading.

Hello all, Has taken a long while, but have read thru most all these 40 pages of posts. In a nutshell are these the main issues people report with the current Mits RP HDTV's:

1. Loud humming noise: sets built in Dec 2007 forward no longer have this problem. This problem would sometimes go away on its own, after a few days. The Mits fix was to wrap electrical tape around wires underneath the ferrite beads & this solves this for earlier mfg'd sets.

2. Pincushion & bowing (gemometry issues) solved via manual adjustments in the menu.

3. (RBE) Rainbow effect nearly non existant.

4. Motion blur is of no real concern, so no need to buy
the 833 series (for the 120mhz feature), unless one is a serious gamer.

5. Is there yet a true seperate other noise issue & is that solved by replacing the factory fan or color wheel, I am a little confused on this one ?

Please correct me if I am wrong on any of these. Thanks !

I saw no mention of any lamp issues for Mit's current line up. I know other mfg's have had serious problems with this.

Really in love with this TV. I have the 57743 and it has been a joy so far. Have a PS3 hooked up and the games look great and the blu-rays look even better. I have a few issues and I hope someone can point me in the right direction..

1. When viewing HD cable channels if there is a program that has text towards the bottom of the screen, it gets cut off, so it appears as if the projector is projecting off screen. How can I fix this, I have looked through the menus and skimmed through a lot of this thread (there is a lot :(), but can't seem to figure it out. Any help here?

2. I have verizon fios. When I view HD channels they come in full screen, but upon viewing and SD channels either the channel leaves black bars on the sides, or it leaves black bars on the sides and top. Is there a way to have both HD channels and SD channels appear full screen?

3. Watching Fios cable it comes in as 1080i, would it be better to view at 720p or 1080p? Is there a way to switch it to those formats?

4. When I try using some of the calibrations that have been posted in this thread I end up with a somewhat dim kinda "ordinary" picture. I far prefer the default settings to any of the calibrations I have tried that were posted in this thread. Could this be a problem with my TV.

I can't remember when I received my set but I thought it was late November (anyway to find manufacture date?), anyway I can't hear the TV at all, it is quieter then my laptop as far as I can tell. Couldn't be more pleased.

Any help is much appreciated with the issues above. Thanks guys!

Come on damnit!!! These sets need to drop back down to 1350 or lower!!!

1. When viewing HD cable channels if there is a program that has text towards the bottom of the screen, it gets cut off, so it appears as if the projector is projecting off screen. How can I fix this, I have looked through the menus and skimmed through a lot of this thread (there is a lot :(), but can't seem to figure it out. Any help here?

Sounds like you have the format on stretch?

2. I have verizon fios. When I view HD channels they come in full screen, but upon viewing and SD channels either the channel leaves black bars on the sides, or it leaves black bars on the sides and top. Is there a way to have both HD channels and SD channels appear full screen?

I'm not sure about cable but the reason the TV does this is based on the format being broadcast. W/ DirecTV you can force all the channels to broadcast in a particular format. But then your image gets stretched/distorted. I know it takes getting used to the black bars but if you want superior PQ then you just have to get used to it.

3. Watching Fios cable it comes in as 1080i, would it be better to view at 720p or 1080p? Is there a way to switch it to those formats?

I think you can get a converter box to go from interlace to progressive. Most sources are broadcasting HD in 720i or 1080i.

4. When I try using some of the calibrations that have been posted in this thread I end up with a somewhat dim kinda "ordinary" picture. I far prefer the default settings to any of the calibrations I have tried that were posted in this thread. Could this be a problem with my TV.

I have experienced the same. I prefer a bright image and just calibrated to my taste. I did find some settings I liked better then the default. Just gotta play around a bit.

Costco.com has this TV at a great price through Jan. 14th with mfg. warranty entended to 2 years. At the bottom of their web page for that model it shows the actual model number WD-73734. So does this mean it's the same TV as you could buy at say, Magnolia HiFi? I thought Costco had models made for them that in some cases had fewer features and different model numbers. To me it seems not so in this case, which would be great with the 2 year warranty and 90 day return policy. Despite problems some have reported (fan noise and colored line in Pillar box?) I'm about ready to buy a 73734.

The model in the store in Clovis and Fresno as of about dec. 15 wdc657 they didn't have a 73 in either store I went to, and that model wdc is made for costco it came with a stand for 1799, and your right it has less features,but they may offer other models on the internet.:cool:

Costco.com has this TV at a great price through Jan. 14th with mfg. warranty entended to 2 years. At the bottom of their web page for that model it shows the actual model number WD-73734. So does this mean it's the same TV as you could buy at say, Magnolia HiFi? I thought Costco had models made for them that in some cases had fewer features and different model numbers. To me it seems not so in this case, which would be great with the 2 year warranty and 90 day return policy. Despite problems some have reported (fan noise and colored line in Pillar box?) I'm about ready to buy a 73734.

Yep, that's the one.

Here's the link (http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11233864&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&eCat=BC|79|2341|4848&N=4001386&Mo=3&pos=2&No=0&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=4848&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&lang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC10605-Cat2341&topnav=).

That's a pretty decent price. Most of us have a 5 year warranty. A few of us purchased extended warranties online (http://www.newworldvideodirect.com/categorylist.asp?parentid=167&ManufactureID=637) and others just purchased them from the store. Usually you can save 50% by doing it on-line. Everyone is assuming you need annual bulb replacements about $150.00 each time. So getting the warranty that includes bulb replacements for $250.00 makes sense.

Good Luck. Not all of us have experienced the whine/noise. It seems like an easy enough fix if you do.

It's a great TV. My family just saw it for the first time over the holidays and they've continued to rave about it days afterwards. The wow factor of the 73" set can't be denied :)

Costco.com has this TV at a great price through Jan. 14th with mfg. warranty entended to 2 years. At the bottom of their web page for that model it shows the actual model number WD-73734. So does this mean it's the same TV as you could buy at say, Magnolia HiFi?

Yup, I have this TV from Costco, it's the same one. As for warranty, keep in mind that many credit cards extend the mfg warranty for a year, so Costco may or may not be providing anything additional, even when using the Costco Amex card. Some folks think Costco will provide a third year of warranty coverage, but I've received conflicting messages from Amex about this, and Costco won't comment.

Since I hadn't yet spent any money in 2008, I went to CC and dropped a few bucks on a Y657 on Jan 1st. I spent a few hours comletely cleaning all of my AV equipment, and the room it all sits in, while my dad watched the Florida/Michigan game on my teensy little 36" tube tv. Then we set up the monster, and watched the Rose Bowl. I put the rest of the system back together during the heartbreaking parts where my home town team blew it.

All I can do is repeat something that a ten-year-old boy said as he walked by while we were loading the TV into my truck, "holy shiiiiiii..."

Everything is great except for that darn whine, but thanks to Hipnotiq and the link to the e-tape fix (http:avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93252&d=1193702779) I am certain that I will soon have that corrected. When I first turned the set on I thought, "wow that is one noisy lamp." With such a simple fix, you'd think it would have been implemented by now; I'll have to check my build date.

Then I think I'll twiddle with the geometry just for laughs. I maintain a couple million dollars worth of sensitive stuff at work, including a bunch of Barco projectors, so I'm not worried about screwing it up. I can't wait to watch every single one of my movies again! Now, I wonder how soon I can get away with buying a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player?

Thanks to everyone here for posting such useful and detailed info!!

Thanks Thugzie for the link re: buying a warranty on line and the bulb reason for doing so. That's what I'll do. I have a Mack warranty from Magnolia on the 55" Mits RPTV that I bought about 4 years ago. Never had to use it but these DLP sets are a different story. That CRT rear projector still has a fantastic picture, was ISF calibratred shortly after I bought it, and has been used only for movies and a few football games. But it lacks HDMI input so I guess the only way to use Blue Ray or HD DVD is get a new set. But I want the big box out of the room for other reasons.

Hey Everybody,
I am pretty sure that I want to purchase the Mitsubishi WD-65733 tonight as I was able to find a pretty good price on it (just slightly above my budget) and was wondering which extended warranty I should go with... either the online one from Mack or with the in-store one from Fry's. I have been looking into things on both and it seems the Mack is cheaper but the Fry's one may be nice since its in store (but I have heard their CS sucks)... does anyone have any personal experience with the two?

Hey Everybody,
I am pretty sure that I want to purchase the Mitsubishi WD-65733 tonight as I was able to find a pretty good price on it (just slightly above my budget) and was wondering which extended warranty I should go with... either the online one from Mack or with the in-store one from Fry's. I have been looking into things on both and it seems the Mack is cheaper but the Fry's one may be nice since its in store (but I have heard their CS sucks)... does anyone have any personal experience with the two?

I'm in a similar situation. I'm pretty sure I want the 73734, but I am concerned about some of the customer service horror stories. Has anyone had good customer service when they needed a repair or replacement for one of these sets? Also, how is the service if you get a 3rd party warrenty and does anyone know of an honest seller?

Call me dimwitted, but I can't seem to find a service manual for the WD-Y657. I've seen only a few pages that offer links to places where one might get a service manual, but I'm hitting dead ends. Can someone post a link directly to a source? Thanks!

Here ya go...


http://www.smpcshop.com/WD-57733-WD-57734-WD-57833-WD-65733-WD-65734-WD-65833-WD-73733-WD-73734-WD-73833-WD-C657-WD-Y577-WD-Y657-p-7456.html

Hey guys. Nothing really major, but I have noticed on 2 occassions now that our TV just randomly shuts off. Each time, the timer light flashes and the TV shuts off. I checked setup and the timer is disabled. Other than a service request, is there anything else that I can check for?

Hey guys. Nothing really major, but I have noticed on 2 occassions now that our TV just randomly shuts off. Each time, the timer light flashes and the TV shuts off. I checked setup and the timer is disabled. Other than a service request, is there anything else that I can check for?

What's happening is, the TV is protecting itself. It shuts off when it senses a dramatic change in the current (essentially a brown-out). Mine has done it too. Make sure you have a decent surge protector in place.

Danny

I have a WD-57734 and it has been problem free until just a couple of days ago and I was hoping that someone could help with the issue. About the right 1/4 of the screen is a little darker then the rest of the TV. It isn't terrible, but it is enough that it is districting (I used some of the test patterns on GetGray to confirm that I wasn't just seeing things). It almost appears that the lamp isn't shinning in the center of the TV and it now off center which is causing the right 1/4 to be a bit darker. Has anyone had this issue or knows how to fix it?

Thank you for your help!

Here ya go...



Oh, thank you thank you! paid for and downloaded. Now, where is my screwdriver? :)

What's happening is, the TV is protecting itself. It shuts off when it senses a dramatic change in the current (essentially a brown-out). Mine has done it too. Make sure you have a decent surge protector in place.

Danny

Interesting! I have, what I thought was a pretty good surge protector in place, but will double check it. Nice to know this! Thanks!

HHGregg has a 2 day sale coming up and they're going to have the 73734 and 65734 for 2295 and 1495 respectively. They are honoring the price now though. I picked up the 65734 yesterday and love it so far. Thanks to everyone here for helping me make the decision.

Interesting! I have, what I thought was a pretty good surge protector in place, but will double check it. Nice to know this! Thanks!

Hey captain, just know that even with a good surge protector you're still going to have instances where the TV shuts itself off. But at least the surge protector is taking the hit and not your TV. Some people do put battery back up devices inline to help with the power-down of the TV.

I suppose the area where you live and the frequency of power outages would dictate how much protection you want to invest in.

Danny

HHGregg has a 2 day sale coming up and they're going to have the 73734 and 65734 for 2295 and 1495 respectively. They are honoring the price now though. I picked up the 65734 yesterday and love it so far. Thanks to everyone here for helping me make the decision.


Wow! That is by far the best price I have seen yet for the 73734 by at least 500! And what that means of course is that I will be unable to buy it because I live to far away from an hhgregg for them to deliver it to me!

THIS IS SUCH BS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: :eek:

Wow! That is by far the best price I have seen yet for the 73734 by at least 500! And what that means of course is that I will be unable to buy it because I live to far away from an hhgregg for them to deliver it to me!

THIS IS SUCH BS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: :eek:

That's the best price I've seen. I'd jump on it if you're looking for the 73734.

Wow! That is by far the best price I have seen yet for the 73734 by at least 500! And what that means of course is that I will be unable to buy it because I live to far away from an hhgregg for them to deliver it to me!

Yeah, now I just gotta convince them that Seattle is very close to Alabama.

I'm in a similar situation. I'm pretty sure I want the 73734, but I am concerned about some of the customer service horror stories. Has anyone had good customer service when they needed a repair or replacement for one of these sets? Also, how is the service if you get a 3rd party warrenty and does anyone know of an honest seller?

bump

So what are the recommended video settings for cable and HD-DVDs/BRs, all connected via HDMI?

johngro,

I bought my 73734 in October from HH Gregg. the first set had the ballast whine, so I ordered a replacement. they had it out the next day....it also had the whine.

I really like the set, but they only have a 10 day return allowance. they waived this with no issue, if I wanted to have a tech. check out the TV.

I did. the tech. came out per the Mitz. TSB, applied the fix, and the sound was long gone, so I kept the 2nd set. Have been in HD nirvana ever since.

It's fabulous. 73" of HD goodness....wow, and the price in unbeatable for screen real estate of this size.

I did buy the extended warranty, but obviously, I have not had to use it yet.

HHGregg has a 2 day sale coming up and they're going to have the 73734 and 65734 for 2295 and 1495 respectively. They are honoring the price now though. I picked up the 65734 yesterday and love it so far. Thanks to everyone here for helping me make the decision.

actually it is the 73733 model as well as the 65734 which I picked up today. I opted for the 65 an got a surround setup for the price difference. for those wondering the 73734 is going to be 2800 on this sale.

actually it is the 73733 model as well as the 65734 which I picked up today. I opted for the 65 an got a surround setup for the price difference. for those wondering the 73734 is going to be 2800 on this sale.

Probably better off buying it at Costco for the same price...

actually it is the 73733 model as well as the 65734 which I picked up today. I opted for the 65 an got a surround setup for the price difference. for those wondering the 73734 is going to be 2800 on this sale.


Oh man, when I saw this post originally, my wife had to talk me down from the roof. we paid $2850 for our 73734 just two months ago....then I read the same place(HH Gregg) I bought mine from was dropping the price to $2200

A misplaced digit in a post can cause mass hysteria!!:D

you got yourself a couple of very fine displays.....

Jeff

Hello everyone, I just bought the 73734 about a week and a half ago and was wandering how I can calibrate it. What DVD should I buy to do so? I already made the mistake of turning the signal noise thing to high and was getting terrible ghosting in Blue Ray movies. Finally I figured out that if I turn that off the picture looks much better. Any other ideas on how to get the best pic out of this set? Thanks for the input.

Brand new unit hooked up via HDMI to both a cable box running at 1080i and an Xbox running at 1080p.

When I change channels on the cable box, I somethings hear a "pop" noise coming from the speaker, like an audible manifestation of electronis blip.

I also get this when I switch from playing a DVD on my Xbox back to the Xbox dashboard.

Is this normal?

I can exchange the set for a new one, but I won't bother if this is normal.

I ordered a 73734 from costco.com about a week ago. Price(on sale) $2799 including shipping to my house. I have been an over 20 year Costco customer and there service, IMO, can't be beat.

I will be returning, to Costco, the 65 " Sharp DLP rear projection unit, I bought about 1 1/2 years ago. It was $2500 and had a GREAT picture, up till a few months ago. DR650, I think it was.

I hope my 73734 has as good a picture, as the Sharp did. I will advise, after a have it a few days.

WD-65734 Setting up audio for HDMI DVD and HDMI cable box help requested


Good day, I am a proud owner of the WD-65734 which I ordered on Black Friday from Amazon\TigerDirect for 1,400. It has a manufacture date of November 2007 and has none of the noise issues and I am very pleased with the picture out-of-the-box.

I had originally plugged my SA 8300HD via HDMI to my Onkyo SR-605 which is HDMI connected to the WD-65734. Picture and sound via HDMI was fine and I had no issues UNTIL I connected my Toshiba DR-400 DVD recorder via HDMI to my Onkyo.

Suddenly the TV would complain about not supporting multiple audio sources via HDMI when connected through an AVR and recommended that I connect audio directly to the TV or some such message that came on the screen.

I thought the TV broke as my HDMI setup: Connecting all my source (so far only Cablevision and the DVDr) via HDMI to the receiver and then passing video\audio to the TV seemed like the most logical and simple way to go.

Since the TV would loose the HDMI setting every time I turned it off, ever since I added the DVDr to the setup I was told to try and connect the cablebox and DVDr via HDMI to the TV directly and, lo and behold the TV stared to behave properly again.

My questions are:
1) Is this normal behavior for the TV to not want to work correctly if the sources are connected to the AVR and then passed down to the TV via HDMI for both video and audio?
2) If I am supposed to connect my sources to the TV directly via HDMI, how would I see the Onkyo’s menu or setup screens in this manner
3) How am I supposed to pass the audio portion of these sources to the AVR. I realize that I am asking, in part, Onkyo specific questions on the audio part but I ask anyway because it seems strange that I would have to reconfigure this in such a manner.

It also occurs to me that maybe I should keep both sources connected to my AVR via HDMI and pass the video on to the TV via HDMI, thusly maintaining my ability to see the Onkyo’s menus when needed, hoping that the TV, somehow will see that I am not trying to pass audio via HDMI to it.

Sorry if I am not totally clear here but perhaps someone can guide me as to the proper method of connecting more than one HDMI source to the AVR and TV so that I can have the best of all worlds.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Claude H.

Hey everyone, I'm planning on getting the 65734 and was wondering if a console with a height of 23" would be all right. I haven't had a chance to take seating measurements at home yet but was wondering if anyone else was using a similar height?

Thanks,
Dennis

Hey everyone, I'm planning on getting the 65734 and was wondering if a console with a height of 23" would be all right. I haven't had a chance to take seating measurements at home yet but was wondering if anyone else was using a similar height?

Thanks,
Dennis

I'm using a 20" and it puts my center about 2" above eye level (based on my seat height), which is very comfortable. You'd only be talking about a couple more inches so it shouldn't be an issue. I guess I should mention that I'm about 13' away from the screen.

Hello all.

I just received my replacement 73734 [I had a 73727 that had many problems] and I am pretty impressed so far. Right out of the box with no tweaking [except turning off VNR] the picture is brighter and the colors are much richer. My wife even commented how much nicer the picture was relative to my ISF calibrated 73727.

I plan to look over some of the different settings people have used, as soon as I can find them, and see if I can tweak it up a little more.

This TV is so much quieter than the 73727 I had, and I did not think the fan on that model was very loud.

So far, so good. Very nice. And very impressed that Mits offered to replace my 73727 without much complaint.

I'm using a 20" and it puts my center about 2" above eye level (based on my seat height), which is very comfortable. You'd only be talking about a couple more inches so it shouldn't be an issue. I guess I should mention that I'm about 13' away from the screen.

Thanks for the feedback.....looks like my viewing distance is right around 13' or so as well so it looks like this should work out pretty good then. Lastly, I just ordered my first big screen, flat screen & most importantly hi-def screen and damn I can wait for this whole experience. I'll be ordering my HD box from Comcast this week and should be getting the 65734 delivered by the 24th of the month!!!! Now I've got to start my Blu-ray player research:)

As to height of the screen: I notice a perceptible difference in brightness between the top of the screen and the bottom. If I sit on a 4" cushion, the brightness evens out. So - when I put together a real stand for this beast, I will make the TV lower by four inches.

The side-to-side brightness variation is much less; almost unnoticeable. They did a great job on the optics with this set!

As to height of the screen: I notice a perceptible difference in brightness between the top of the screen and the bottom. If I sit on a 4" cushion, the brightness evens out. So - when I put together a real stand for this beast, I will make the TV lower by four inches.

The side-to-side brightness variation is much less; almost unnoticeable. They did a great job on the optics with this set!

Which TV do you have? How high is your current stand?

Which TV do you have? How high is your current stand?
Oh sorry - knew I left someting out! I have the Y657, which is the same size as the 65xxx sets. My stand now is 20 inches high. I should also mention that my seats are a bit lower than normal, only 11 inches or so. Odd, but very comfy.

The trick is to get your eye height close to center height of the screen. Even 1/3 above the bottom is fine - but much lower and you'll see the variation in brightness.

I might get the 733 model of this set. What is the diff between the 734 and 733? And how is the side viewing angle?

just set up a new 65734 today. so far so good, but i noticed that there are occasionally some perceptible brightness shifts within the same scene or even the same shot. And sometimes it seems like the white subtitles are different brightnesses. this is while watching Munich SD-DVD on a Toshiba HD-A2 HD-DVD player over component (so no upconverting, just 480p). I previously watched parts of Matrix Reloaded on HD-DVD and didn't notice anything, but didn't have subs on for that one.

Anybody ever notice this?

I might get the 733 model of this set. What is the diff between the 734 and 733?

734 has Dark Detailer, Deep Field Imager, Perfect Tint, Sharp Edge, Front HDMI, Net Command.

I suspect you wouldn't be able to tell the difference in picture quality in a double-blind test, but the price diff isn't very much, so what the heck...

Now I've got to start my Blu-ray player research:) Look into the PS3, That's what I'm using. The Blu-ray is pristine and it also does a very nice job of up-converting standard DVDs. Since Sony owns the licensing for Blu-Ray it's gonna be compatible with all blu-rays with the firmware upgrades, which are so easy to download and install with an internet connection. Oh yeah and it's a kick-a$$ game platform but it's so much more than a video game platform. Do a little research.

PS: You're gonna love your 65734. The picture is superb IMO.

just set up a new 65734 today. so far so good, but i noticed that there are occasionally some perceptible brightness shifts within the same scene or even the same shot. And sometimes it seems like the white subtitles are different brightnesses. this is while watching Munich SD-DVD on a Toshiba HD-A2 HD-DVD player over component (so no upconverting, just 480p). I previously watched parts of Matrix Reloaded on HD-DVD and didn't notice anything, but didn't have subs on for that one.

Anybody ever notice this?

Do you mean for example, the left side of the screen is brighter than the right? Or do you mean the brightness, let's say, flickers during the scene? What are your settings?

WD-65734 Setting up audio for HDMI DVD and HDMI cable box help requested


Good day, I am a proud owner of the WD-65734 which I ordered on Black Friday from Amazon\TigerDirect for 1,400. It has a manufacture date of November 2007 and has none of the noise issues and I am very pleased with the picture out-of-the-box.

I had originally plugged my SA 8300HD via HDMI to my Onkyo SR-605 which is HDMI connected to the WD-65734. Picture and sound via HDMI was fine and I had no issues UNTIL I connected my Toshiba DR-400 DVD recorder via HDMI to my Onkyo.

Suddenly the TV would complain about not supporting multiple audio sources via HDMI when connected through an AVR and recommended that I connect audio directly to the TV or some such message that came on the screen.

I thought the TV broke as my HDMI setup: Connecting all my source (so far only Cablevision and the DVDr) via HDMI to the receiver and then passing video\audio to the TV seemed like the most logical and simple way to go.

Since the TV would loose the HDMI setting every time I turned it off, ever since I added the DVDr to the setup I was told to try and connect the cablebox and DVDr via HDMI to the TV directly and, lo and behold the TV stared to behave properly again.

My questions are:
1) Is this normal behavior for the TV to not want to work correctly if the sources are connected to the AVR and then passed down to the TV via HDMI for both video and audio?
2) If I am supposed to connect my sources to the TV directly via HDMI, how would I see the Onkyo’s menu or setup screens in this manner
3) How am I supposed to pass the audio portion of these sources to the AVR. I realize that I am asking, in part, Onkyo specific questions on the audio part but I ask anyway because it seems strange that I would have to reconfigure this in such a manner.

It also occurs to me that maybe I should keep both sources connected to my AVR via HDMI and pass the video on to the TV via HDMI, thusly maintaining my ability to see the Onkyo’s menus when needed, hoping that the TV, somehow will see that I am not trying to pass audio via HDMI to it.

Sorry if I am not totally clear here but perhaps someone can guide me as to the proper method of connecting more than one HDMI source to the AVR and TV so that I can have the best of all worlds.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Claude H.
I believe the Mits can only see 1 device as it is connected into a signle HDMI port.
If that device supports multiple input devices then things get screwy.

Your best bet is to connect each device to the TV (as is recommened in the owners manual).

Look into the PS3, That's what I'm using. The Blu-ray is pristine and it also does a very nice job of up-converting standard DVDs. Since Sony owns the licensing for Blu-Ray it's gonna be compatible with all blu-rays with the firmware upgrades, which are so easy to download and install with an internet connection. Oh yeah and it's a kick-a$$ game platform but it's so much more than a video game platform. Do a little research.

PS: You're gonna love your 65734. The picture is superb IMO.

Yeah....I've thought about the PS3 but I've got a 360 so I'm not sure I want to get into another gaming system although as you've stated it's one hell of a blu-ray device so we'll see. I'm really interested in the Panasonic BD30k. Now I've got to start looking at what some optimum settings are for the Mits. I like to plan ahead for that great picture:)

I believe the Mits can only see 1 device as it is connected into a signle HDMI port.
If that device supports multiple input devices then things get screwy.

Your best bet is to connect each device to the TV (as is recommened in the owners manual).

I currently have my Onkyo 605 connected to a WDC657. My PS3 and XBOX360 Elite are connected to the Onkyo...haven't had any problems yet :)

I have a 4 port HDMI switch that i have not hooked up yet.

Do you mean for example, the left side of the screen is brighter than the right? Or do you mean the brightness, let's say, flickers during the scene? What are your settings?

no, the entire image brightness slightly brighter or darker within the same shot. I haven't changed any of the default settings yet. Deep field imager is on.

now that i think about it, I saw this same behavior (on a 36" CRT) when using a Pioneer dvd player, back in the early days of progressive scan dvd. i thought it was the implementation in that model so I returned it, but maybe it is common or inherent in progressive scan models? i read somewhere that this can sometimes be due to the green sync pulses cause miscues on the gain circuit. anybody else see or hear of this?

hopefully the hdmi cable coming today will fix the problem.

I have a question for you 73734 owners. The one thing I notice with this set is that it seems to change channels much slower than my old 73727. I am using an HR20 HD-DVR through HDMI-1 and when I change channels on this TV it seems to take much longer for the TV picture to come up than with the old set. I will actually get the sound from the receiver for the "new" channel before the screen comes up with the video.

Is this normal for this model?

If what Hipnotiq says is correct:
"I believe the Mits can only see 1 device as it is connected into a signle HDMI port. If that device supports multiple input devices then things get screwy. Your best bet is to connect each device to the TV (as is recommened in the owners manual)."
then I will have to reconsider buying this TV.

I'm planning on buying a new receiver (Onkyo TX-SR875) that has great on-board video and audio processing. If you want to take advantage of Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD Master Audio, don't you have to send the video and audio from your source through your receiver? If you have more than one source twith hose hi rez audio formats, that means connecting them both to the receiver and running one HDMI from receiver to display. But as I'm writing this I'm thinking that in my case maybe it would not be a problem. I'll have a Pioneer BDP-95FD that can output the hi rez audio so would I run that through the receiver, and all other sources direct to the display?

About to purchase the WD-73734 from hhgreg in Antioch TN. I want the 8 series which is 120hz. Where can I find it ? Why did Circuit City - Best Buy - or hhgreg not have the 8 series ?

I have a 25 lbs Paradigm CC-300 center channel speaker that I need to put on top of my 65734. unfortunately, there is really no where else I can put the speaker. The way it is positioned, it is half on a shelf behind it and half on the top of the TV. Part of the reason I chose this model is because Mitsu's body and frame seem stiffer and stronger than the Samsung slim models, which would sag under this weight. I can detect to visible sagging or distortion from placing the center where it is now, but wanted to see if anybody else has done this and if there has been any ill-effects from it over time.

About to purchase the WD-73734 from hhgreg in Antioch TN. I want the 8 series which is 120hz. Where can I find it ? Why did Circuit City - Best Buy - or hhgreg not have the 8 series ?

Hey there fellow Antiochian [if that is a word!]. I purchased my original 73727 from ******* and got my replacement 73734 from them as well [it arrived yesterday]. If you cannot find the 833 locally I would highly recommend *******....great service.

I have a question for you 73734 owners. The one thing I notice with this set is that it seems to change channels much slower than my old 73727. I am using an HR20 HD-DVR through HDMI-1 and when I change channels on this TV it seems to take much longer for the TV picture to come up than with the old set. I will actually get the sound from the receiver for the "new" channel before the screen comes up with the video.

Is this normal for this model?

I have directv. If I watch the signal in native (how it's broadcast) there's no way to channel surf. The set is painfully slow switching formats from 480 to 1080 back to 480 or whatever.

If I force the signal to a particular setting which can distort the picture and quality the channels to switch much quicker.

I use the guide A LOT now.

About to purchase the WD-73734 from hhgreg in Antioch TN. I want the 8 series which is 120hz. Where can I find it ? Why did Circuit City - Best Buy - or hhgreg not have the 8 series ?

BB has the set you're looking for. I believe this weekend is customer appreciation where BB sends out 10-12% off coupons. I have one I could have fedex'd ya if I had known sooner :eek:

Hello All,

I just purchased a wd-65734. I've had it for one day. I've noticed a small black dot that doesn't go away in the top right hand corner that is only noticable when you get close to the screen.

I have been reading this forum for months now, and have read about how some have been able to flick the screen like it was a piece of dust actually on the screen it self and it dropped off... well this didn't fix it the dot remains

My question is do you think this is a dead pixel or a piece of dust maybe on the mirrors that can just be blown off inside the TV. Is this something that can be fixed under warranty? Is there a chance this can't be fixed and it will stay there forever?

Any help would be appreciated ie if anyone has had this problem and had it fixed via warranty or perhaps on their own.

Thanks in advance!!

Otherwise I'm lovin the TV I actually purchased the 57 inch from circuit city and wasn't sastified and so glad I stepped up to the 65 incher ** grins **

If what Hipnotiq says is correct:
"I believe the Mits can only see 1 device as it is connected into a signle HDMI port. If that device supports multiple input devices then things get screwy. Your best bet is to connect each device to the TV (as is recommened in the owners manual)."
then I will have to reconsider buying this TV.

I'm planning on buying a new receiver (Onkyo TX-SR875) that has great on-board video and audio processing. If you want to take advantage of Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD Master Audio, don't you have to send the video and audio from your source through your receiver? If you have more than one source twith hose hi rez audio formats, that means connecting them both to the receiver and running one HDMI from receiver to display. But as I'm writing this I'm thinking that in my case maybe it would not be a problem. I'll have a Pioneer BDP-95FD that can output the hi rez audio so would I run that through the receiver, and all other sources direct to the display?

This is the problem I'm having. I'm running a toshiba hda30, ps3, through hdmi inputs to my denon avr887 then to my mitsu 57734. It definitely has problems finding signals from those two devices and my cable box and 360 that are hooked up via component and optical. I did buy a onkyo 705 and that seemed to work fine, but there was just too many other problems with the sound that i took it back. Right now, to get the tv to recognize my receiver signal have to reset the settings everytime i want to watch, then it will search for the signal, even then it takes 5 mins to find it. A Royal pain in the ass. Is anyone else running a single receiver with an hdmi cable that has no problems? Could you list your make and model?

I have directv. If I watch the signal in native (how it's broadcast) there's no way to channel surf. The set is painfully slow switching formats from 480 to 1080 back to 480 or whatever.

If I force the signal to a particular setting which can distort the picture and quality the channels to switch much quicker.

I use the guide A LOT now.

Forcing 480 into 1080 shouldn't harm pic quality should it? It seems like upconversion was a good thing.

I just keep my cable box output set at 1080i and my channels switch at an acceptable speed.

Forcing 480 into 1080 shouldn't harm pic quality should it? It seems like upconversion was a good thing.

I just keep my cable box output set at 1080i and my channels switch at an acceptable speed.

Yeah, I just set the HR20 to only output 720p or 1080i and took it off "native" and now it switches like the old one did.

Ready to purchase a 65734 and cannot locate a good online deal on one right now. Before Christmas I found them for around $1,800 at a number of places online but everywhere seems to be $2,199 now. I had hoped to get a better deal after Christmas so this is kind of a bummer.

Seen any good deals on a 65734 lately?

EDIT: Found a good deal at one call Still dont know why everyone else raised their prices after Christmas. Oh well.

http://WWW.ShopNbc.com try this site for prices.



Bill

OK,

As I had explained in my earlier posts in this thread, I was having trouble with my TV loosing the HDMI input information every time I turned it off when connecting my HDMI components to the receiver and then passing video on to the WD-65734 via HDMI.

After spending quite a bit of frustrating time withy Mitsubishi "India" support I was told that I cannot connect the HDMI inputs from my DVD player or SA8300DVR to my onkyo sr-605 receiver and then pass the video on to the TV via HDMI (even if I have turned off "audio via HDMI to TV" in my Onkyo's setup menu).

Mits tells me that I have to connect the DVD and cablebox HDMI cables to the TV directly and connect the audio out from these 2 devices to the receiver.

Of course this works but then I cannot see the onkyo's OSD if I need to when watching either Cable TV or DVD. This makes no sense AT ALL!

Can anyone tell me if this is the way things work when using HDMI equipement of is this a Mitsubishi specific limitation?

I love the TVs picture and I certainly will not need to look at the Onkyo's OSD that often and if I must I guess I can connect the AVR to the TV's HDMI-3 input BUT THIS SEEMS LIKE IT SHOUOLD NOT HAVE TO BE THAT WAY.

I must admit that the TV did come up with an onscreen message stating that it does NOT support HDMI switching via the AVR, so go figure.

Can anyone shed more light on this?

Thanks,

Claude H.

i have my hdmi from cable and hd dvd going through my onkyo 805, it works great

can anyone comment on my post above about the black spec being able to be seen up close?

another question: I got the TV from tigerdirect.com, well how come my set doesn't have those two stickers on the front of the screen the 1080p sticker on the bottom left and the hdmi/simplay/etc. longer sticker that is on the bottom right hand corner of the new sets?

Is it possible that this set was not new out of the box and had been opened already? It seemed like it had been factory sealed but shouldn't those stickers come on the TV? Did anyone else buy one and not get these stickers?

King,

Yes it should of had about 3 or 4 stickers on the right, and 1 sticker on the left which says 1080P, it's always a possibility they were left off at the factory, you just never know.

Press Menu, then 2470, fast, you have to be quick when you do it. It will show you how many hours are on the bulb, it will come up in the lower left hand corner. If it has a lot of hours on it, that means it is not new, as far as the spot goes, take off the inspection plate, the little round circles on the side, and you can see the mirror and the screen, and clean wherever the spot is at, it could be on the screen, mirror or on the lamp which is at the bottom.




Bill

KingOr, if what you see is a very tiny black dot, you may well have a stuck pixel. Do take a look through the ports, just in case! If what you have does turn out to be a dead pixel, there are some folks who report some success with a special "movie" on disk that flips the whole screen from black to white, and shakes loose the stuck dot. Try at your own discretion, and sorry but don't have a link to where to find it.

The owner's manual states that they only guarantee 99.99% good pixels. That means up to .01% bad...out of two million, you could have 200 dead ones and they will just shrug and say tough. I personally would find 200 dead pixels reason for a serious shouting match.

http://WWW.ShopNbc.com try this site for prices.



Bill

This is where I ordered mine from recently and landed a great price when it was the "top value" of the day:)