If I'm understanding your question correctly, when sources are connected to the Mit the tv recognizes those connections automatically. For example, I only have 3 components connected to the tv so my input selection menu only contains those 3 components.

Now to specifically answer your question, you press <input> and a menu pops up with all connected components. <Arrow> to the desired component and press <enter>. I'm not sure how this compares to the other tv's that you mentioned. You can even change the order of the inputs. For example, when I press input (from watching satellite) the highlighted component in the menu is dvd. And from watching dvd when I press input the highlighted component in the menu is satellite. With this set up I don't even have to use the arrow keys to select a component because those are my most used components. All I have to do is press the enter button. The third is an s-video connection to my receiver that I only use if I need to access the receivers menu for changes.

I hope this answers your question.

It does indeed answer my question and that's exactly what I wanted to hear.

The reason I asked is because I'm anal about insignificant features such as that. I had an older Sony years back that required you to cycle through the various connected inputs when you wanted to select one. It would take like 10-12 seconds before you reached the desired one, which was fairly annoying. My current Toshiba DLP brings up a menu that allows you to select the input from there, thus being a lot less bothersome. I was hoping that the Mitsubishi also had a similar menu, and it apparently does.

Anyway, thanks for the informative and speedy reply! I should be purchasing this set very soon!! :D

It does indeed answer my question and that's exactly what I wanted to hear.

The reason I asked is because I'm anal about insignificant features such as that. I had an older Sony years back that required you to cycle through the various connected inputs when you wanted to select one. It would take like 10-12 seconds before you reached the desired one, which was fairly annoying. My current Toshiba DLP brings up a menu that allows you to select the input from there, thus being a lot less bothersome. I was hoping that the Mitsubishi also had a similar menu, and it apparently does.

Anyway, thanks for the informative and speedy reply! I should be purchasing this set very soon!! :D

I'm pretty much with you about insignificant features. IMO the only way it could be easier is through the use of a universal remote that had a button or softkey for each component. But the Mit is a breeze in this regard.

I highly recommend this tv for a number of reasons, ease of use being one of them. If you don't have a "need" to hang a tv on the wall for space reasons I just don't see anything better out there for the money. Good luck and check in with us when you pull the trigger.

Was supposed to get my new 65734, when the local dealer called. Apparently, the Tv he had in stock was partially crushed. He can only get another in 60 days.. Looks like back to drawing board. Perhaps, online shopping.

Was supposed to get my new 65734, when the local dealer called. Apparently, the Tv he had in stock was partially crushed. He can only get another in 60 days.. Looks like back to drawing board. Perhaps, online shopping.

Online shopping......hmmm - check out tigerdirect.com for a very nice price.

If I'm understanding your question correctly, when sources are connected to the Mit the tv recognizes those connections automatically.

I find the inputs kinda confusing. For instance, I have 3 inputs from the DVR - HDMI, component, and s-video. But there doesn't seem to be any logical way to name these - I ended up calling the s-video input VCR. Am I missing something?

Online shopping......hmmm - check out tigerdirect.com for a very nice price.

But be careful about their return policies, which are pretty confusing...

I purchased one from Amazon/Tiger on Tuesday, confirmed shipping yesterday expected delivery Tuesday. I'll send pictures and relative information as soon as I have the setup up and running.

MP

But be careful about their return policies, which are pretty confusing...

I find the inputs kinda confusing. For instance, I have 3 inputs from the DVR - HDMI, component, and s-video. But there doesn't seem to be any logical way to name these - I ended up calling the s-video input VCR. Am I missing something?
they probably didnt anticipate someone wanting to use 3 inputs from a single device.
in fact it kinda baffles me. Unless the device was multi-streaming and the TV had PIP/POP...

I find the inputs kinda confusing. For instance, I have 3 inputs from the DVR - HDMI, component, and s-video. But there doesn't seem to be any logical way to name these - I ended up calling the s-video input VCR. Am I missing something?

Are you sending three signals from one device to the TV? what for? All you need connect is one of those three (HDMI) and you're done.

Now just waiting on TV

Pulled the plug again... This time, got a good deal online from *******. Now the search for a decent stand. Having trouble finding one that I can put my subwoofer (16x16) on an open middle shelf. I would love to have one with a closed back.
Also, what is the thought on height for the stand? Have found a few as low as 17" and as high as 26". Not sure what works best? Any ideas?? Thanks...

Pulled the plug again... This time, got a good deal online from *******. Now the search for a decent stand. Having trouble finding one that I can put my subwoofer (16x16) on an open middle shelf. I would love to have one with a closed back.
Also, what is the thought on height for the stand? Have found a few as low as 17" and as high as 26". Not sure what works best? Any ideas?? Thanks...

What kind of Sub do you have? In general, Subs are best suited for the floor due to low frequencies vibrating the heck out of anything else they sit on.

As far as stand height goes, your quoted range of 17" to 26 inches is about right.
I have a 24" stand and it works great.

Just a quick update:

Got my 73734 from Tiger, came fast and took me all of 10 seconds to rip it out of the box to check it out. Absolutely fantastic. Great picture and great service from TD.

I am gonna get the stand now, wasn't ready to waste the money if I wasn't happy. It's sitting on the floor now and looks crappy, so I gotta get it.

Also got the package surround sound with it.

Best thing of all - January 2008 production date on it! :)

Are you sending three signals from one device to the TV? what for? All you need connect is one of those three (HDMI) and you're done.

I watch lots of SD programs over s-video because the captioning is better and easier, there are more screen format options, and the picture actually looks better. May decide to dump HDMI for component, because of HDCP issues...

What kind of Sub do you have? In general, Subs are best suited for the floor due to low frequencies vibrating the heck out of anything else they sit on.

As far as stand height goes, your quoted range of 17" to 26 inches is about right.
I have a 24" stand and it works great.
Its an NHT sub and I'm looking at Techcraft ABS60 . Looks like it will fit in the middle spot. Presently I have an entertainment unit and the sub is inside with a wood door. Need always to open the door when the sub is used. This should work better if it doesn' vibrate. The sub is quite heavy.

I find the inputs kinda confusing. For instance, I have 3 inputs from the DVR - HDMI, component, and s-video. But there doesn't seem to be any logical way to name these - I ended up calling the s-video input VCR. Am I missing something?

I'm curious, why do you have all 3 connected to the tv?

You should be able to name all of these the same thing if that's what you want. HDMI-Satellite, Component-Satellite, and S-Video-Satellite.

Or am I not understanding what you're wanting to do?

**Sorry, didn't read ahead before replying and found the answer to the "why" question. And I see your dilema now. Naming them all the same you won't be able to identify which is which. You'd probably have to leave everything labled as their respective type of input as opposed to what the input is.

In terms of the "limitation" of being able to do this IMO it's just an odd connection. One that the tv just wasn't intended to have. It's designed to accomodate someone wanting to convert s-video or take advantage of hd sources independently. Not simultaneously, so to speak.

I'll admit that I'm a little disappointed with the input naming capabilities. I have two game consoles hooked up with component but can't call them Game-1 or Game-2. My room mate's old Sony Wega lets you create your own names for connected devices!

I'll admit that I'm a little disappointed with the input naming capabilities. I have two game consoles hooked up with component but can't call them Game-1 or Game-2. My room mate's old Sony Wega lets you create your own names for connected devices!
Guys, I don't have this model, but am a long time Mits owner. This option has been in net-command for years. Most of my input "devices" have custom names. It has been a while since I modified an input name, and I don't recall exactly where, but you should find it in one of the net-command screens if you look hard enough. If I remember tonight, I'll go into net-command.

You know I didn't want to speak out of turn because I'm not in front of the tv nor do I have the manual with me but for some reason I do recall reading in a review somewhere that we are able to do input customization. I guess it was out of site out of mind with me because it really doesn't matter to me because of what I have connected and how it's connected. This might be worth doing a little investigating over the weekend.

Just bit the bullet and ordered one online. was really hoping to buy one locally but online rices are so much better usually. Now the waiting game starts:(

One more thing. Talked to a local dealer and said they were just notified yesterday that Mits is stopping production to get ready for the next years model. So deals might get better or harder to find.

You know I didn't want to speak out of turn because I'm not in front of the tv nor do I have the manual with me but for some reason I do recall reading in a review somewhere that we are able to do input customization. I guess it was out of site out of mind with me because it really doesn't matter to me because of what I have connected and how it's connected. This might be worth doing a little investigating over the weekend.
I have at least 8 inputs to my tv. So naming is a big help. A good example for naming are my 2 dvd players. I have a high quality single-disk dvd player. After I watch a movie for the first time in the good player, I put it in my sony jukebox for later viewing. If I named them both "DVD Player", my wife wouldn't know what the hell was going on.

Guys, I don't have this model, but am a long time Mits owner. This option has been in net-command for years. Most of my input "devices" have custom names. It has been a while since I modified an input name, and I don't recall exactly where, but you should find it in one of the net-command screens if you look hard enough. If I remember tonight, I'll go into net-command.
older models did have that feature, but Mits deleted it.

probably figured it was more simple for customers to just select the name from a short list.

older models did have that feature, but Mits deleted it.

probably figured it was more simple for customers to just select the name from a short list.
Are you certain? There wouldn't be any reason to remove this functionality, but you may be right. I am able to select canned names, but I am also able to go into another screen and customize names. I'll write down the steps it takes and post them here for you guys to compare.

Are you certain? There wouldn't be any reason to remove this functionality, but you may be right. I am able to select canned names, but I am also able to go into another screen and customize names. I'll write down the steps it takes and post them here for you guys to compare.

Yes, they did remove it. I have the 73734 and there is no mention of the net command

I can also see the "imperfection" on my WD-Y577. It's due to the actual optics of the screen. If you've ever taken an older RPTV apart you'd see that the screen is actually a giant lens. Without that you'd have a very distorted image. The TV wasn't mean to be viewed from a top-down angle and I can only assume that's why they consider it to be an allowable "imperfection."

I haven't had the hum that others describe. When I sit right next to the TV while powering it on I hear a very quiet whine for a second and then it's silent.

Thanks for providing some information about this issue. Before I sent mine back, I even had a tech come out and look at it. He wanted to take it back to his shop. The tech at Mits told me intitally it was a maladjusted bulb fixture, or something else with the light engine. So, even the "pros" couldn't get it figured out. That's why I decided to return it.
At least in my situation, I could see the effects of the problem sitting 6 ft. away under certain normal viewing circumstances. In fact that's how I first discovered that it existed in the first place. I wasn't on top of the television looking down at the screen.
If this is a common normal occurrence with all sets, I would like to know. I would give this television another shot, because I really liked it. I have always found these forums very helpful because folks here can often resolve issues that nobody else seems to have answers to. Maybe these tvs are just getting too compacted and we are seeing another consequence of consumers wanting a paper thin television and DLP companies trying to comply. I know the geometry was awful on my set when I had it. The worst I have ever seen. So, maybe the television I had was messed up from the get go.

Question for the group...

All my video is switched through my Onkyo 805 receiver so any/all video goes into HDMI-1 on my set. When I change sources (via my receiver) the Mits takes a long time to "sync", thus I get a blank screen for 4-6 seconds. Does everyone else have this same result?

thx

Yes, they did remove it. I have the 73734 and there is no mention of the net command

After reading everything you guys are saying, I'm guessing they did remove it for some reason, because I was easily able to find it via netcommand "add" and "change" options. Even so, I'm adding the remote control commands that my 5-6 year old mits 65869 allows.

menu button->highlight setup->click enter->change->next->click up or down arrow to select "text" name to change->next->enter->"Name" screen displays

on this screen, use enter, up, down buttons to modify name.

click Next, then connect the name to the proper input.

<rant>
I've loved mits rptvs for years. They have always been top notch and highly tunable. Before my current set, I had a 50" 3x4 set. It seems as though their customer service, reliability and quality has gone down hill since I've had these sets. But, times have changed and die-hard mits fans are moving on. Simple things like naming inputs is a minor gripe, uncool.
<end rant>

As and fyi, although this is one of my favorite home theater sites on the web, the very best mits site is the homet heater spot (www.h o me theaterspot.com). Go to the "manufacturers/mitsubishi" forum and you'll find more info/options about your mits than you ever thought possible.

Question for the group...

All my video is switched through my Onkyo 805 receiver so any/all video goes into HDMI-1 on my set. When I change sources (via my receiver) the Mits takes a long time to "sync", thus I get a blank screen for 4-6 seconds. Does everyone else have this same result?

thx
If you've seen my last couple posts, you know that I don't have your model, but I'll chime in. Mits has had this problem for quite some time. I've gotten use to it, but I would have thought that by now, the sync time would have been much better. Going between 480 and 1080 on my 5+ year old set is comparable to yours, and during the change in resolution I see goofy, wavy green lines on screen. I have lower-end sharp and visio hd tvs, and neither of these sets has this type of delay.

Question for the group...

All my video is switched through my Onkyo 805 receiver so any/all video goes into HDMI-1 on my set. When I change sources (via my receiver) the Mits takes a long time to "sync", thus I get a blank screen for 4-6 seconds. Does everyone else have this same result?

thx

Livin, just PMd you about your Onkyo 805. Would love to hear your thoughts on its audio quality.

Question for the group...

All my video is switched through my Onkyo 805 receiver so any/all video goes into HDMI-1 on my set. When I change sources (via my receiver) the Mits takes a long time to "sync", thus I get a blank screen for 4-6 seconds. Does everyone else have this same result?

thx


Yes, it appears to be the case on all of the 800-900 series of Onkyo's.
I have the 905 and it does the same.

I've noticed the delay when switching inputs. I've noticed it mostly when going from different types of inputs like from the component input of my XBox 360 to the HDMI input that my cable box uses. I haven't tested in when going from like input types such as the 360 to my PS2 which are both on component. Nor have I tested when going from one digital input to another such as the cable box to the computer which are both on HDMI.

Thanks to everyone who posted their feedback on this tv because if it was for store display alone I would not have even given this set the time of day. I took delivery this Friday, was a bit dissapointed at first of the Bluray movies I tested with my Panny BD30 however I realise it was the movies. After watching Chicken little and The Prestige all I can say is WOW!

I am so glad I did not purchase the 73833 because I cannot imagine it being much better in terms of PQ (at least not 1000K better). Plus I do not need the additional features; 120Hz etc.

73734 Great picture and lot of real estate for the price!

Hey all, I just purchased this TV (65734) and the picture is pretty darn amazing....but have any of you gadget-heads tweaked the settings yet? What have you found to be the best settings?

Also...can anything be done about the annoying fan buzzing noise? I see a lot of you are having this problem (only read up to page 5 so far....) I assume it's the fan...so is there a fix for it? I did get a 3 year extended service plan.

Also, what is the flickering issue I see when playing xbox360 (when the 360 is set to 1080p)...when I set it to 1080i I do not have this issue. The screen will flicker on and off, then go black, then flickers back on and off again

any ideas????


edit: 1 last question....for bulb life I typed in the code...but it doesn't say "bulb life" anywhere on the screen...is it the number at the lower left hand corner??

Help.

Hey all, I just purchased this TV (65734) and the picture is pretty darn amazing....but have any of you gadget-heads tweaked the settings yet? What have you found to be the best settings?

Also...can anything be done about the annoying fan buzzing noise? I see a lot of you are having this problem (only read up to page 5 so far....) I assume it's the fan...so is there a fix for it? I did get a 3 year extended service plan.

Also, what is the flickering issue I see when playing xbox360 (when the 360 is set to 1080p)...when I set it to 1080i I do not have this issue. The screen will flicker on and off, then go black, then flickers back on and off again

any ideas????


edit: 1 last question....for bulb life I typed in the code...but it doesn't say "bulb life" anywhere on the screen...is it the number at the lower left hand corner??

Help.


wow...these are really good questions, someone here should be able to answer those for ya:p

It is the number at lower left hand corner.

Here are some replies.
Hey all, I just purchased this TV (65734) and the picture is pretty darn amazing....but have any of you gadget-heads tweaked the settings yet? What have you found to be the best settings?
I've done just tiny changes to the factory settings and it still looks awesome. I made sure to set the bulb brightness to Standard and even then the picture is just brilliant. There are TONS of threads here with numbers for for adjusting your settings.

Also...can anything be done about the annoying fan buzzing noise? I see a lot of you are having this problem (only read up to page 5 so far....) I assume it's the fan...so is there a fix for it? I did get a 3 year extended service plan.
I've heard reports of this but have not experienced it. I like to think I have pretty good hearing and when I actively listen for it I hear nothing. If I sit in front of my set while powering it on I hear a faint high-pitch whine for a second or two. During normal operation it's dead quiet. If it's loud enough to be disruptive you may want to have it looked at. It's possibly the bulbs cooling fan wearing out prematurely. if it fails then the bulb can quickly overheat and die.

Also, what is the flickering issue I see when playing xbox360 (when the 360 is set to 1080p)...when I set it to 1080i I do not have this issue. The screen will flicker on and off, then go black, then flickers back on and off again
I assume you're using component cables here, am I correct? My TV doesn't support 1080p so I can't test that. It's possible that either the inputs are bad, the cables are bad, or the 360 itself is having issues. When using 1080p via HDMI and my girlfriend's PC it works great. Slight overcan, but flawless otherwise.

any ideas????


edit: 1 last question....for bulb life I typed in the code...but it doesn't say "bulb life" anywhere on the screen...is it the number at the lower left hand corner??
Never looked at this so I honestly don't know.

Help.

Thanks for your replies ebackhus :cool:

To answer your question, I am using an HDMI cable from the xbox360 to the TV. (WD65734) I don't know what the problem is.

I don't know what's causing the flickering issue.

And I may have the fan looked at here soon.

Veloziraptor....to answer your bulb life question....the menu only displays the bulb life hours. So whatever number you see is how many hours your bulb has been used.

[QUOTE=Livin;13198282]Question for the group...

All my video is switched through my Onkyo 805 receiver so any/all video goes into HDMI-1 on my set. When I change sources (via my receiver) the Mits takes a long time to "sync", thus I get a blank screen for 4-6 seconds. Does everyone else have this same result?

I have an Onkyo TX-SR875 I'm using as a pre/pro with a single HDMI connection to the Mits. All audio and video processing is done through the receiver. I have the same delay issues when using my satellite receiver through the Onkyo. I don't have picture delay just sound for 4-5 seconds. I'm not sure where, in the train of connections, the problem lies. Some on the Onkyo forum believe it's with the DirectV DVR's Dolby Digital audio; others think it's with the receiver processing and still others think it might be the Mits. While it is annoying, I've gotten used to it.

Similiar set up here, everything is HDMI into Denon 2807, then HDMI to mits 65734. There is a delay when switching between tv, and dvd, or tv to using the Denon to play my ipod, but I have never found it to be a problem. Its a few seconds at most. I just figured its the price to pay for such a great sound, picture, etc. I also have had delays changing channels when the sat box is on "native". But now have it set to 1080i for all channels, and its not bad.

I have an Onkyo TX-SR875 I'm using as a pre/pro with a single HDMI connection to the Mits. All audio and video processing is done through the receiver. I have the same delay issues when using my satellite receiver through the Onkyo. I don't have picture delay just sound for 4-5 seconds. I'm not sure where, in the train of connections, the problem lies. Some on the Onkyo forum believe it's with the DirectV DVR's Dolby Digital audio; others think it's with the receiver processing and still others think it might be the Mits. While it is annoying, I've gotten used to it.

I have an Oknyo 805, DishNetwork DVR. and XBOX and it happens on both... DEFINITLY an Onkyo issue!

Has anyone had their Mits 73734 ISF Calibrated? Was wondering whether or not it is worthwhile. If you have had it calibrated, where did you find the ISF Calibrator? Thanks.

Hello,

I hope it's ok to post this question...if not I apologize in advance!

I'm currently torn between the Mitsubishi 65734 and the Sony KDS-60A3000. Originally I was set on the Mitsubishi but then I started reading about the high-pitched noise issue some of you are experiencing and also the so-so sound quality from the TV.

My questions are these; does the high-pitched sound issue seem to happen with every set or are some of them fine. And also, the Mitsubishi seemed darker than the Sony in the store...is this probably just the default settings and nothing to worry about?

Thank you very much for any help!!

Hello,

My questions are these; does the high-pitched sound issue seem to happen with every set or are some of them fine. And also, the Mitsubishi seemed darker than the Sony in the store...is this probably just the default settings and nothing to worry about?

Thank you very much for any help!!

I have a 73734 and from what I have been reading on this thread it appears that most of the problem units are with earlier build dates, my TV was manufactured in Jan '08 and is as quiet as a church mouse.

I have a 73734 and from what I have been reading on this thread it appears that most of the problem units are with earlier build dates, my TV was manufactured in Jan '08 and is as quiet as a church mouse.

Thanks for the info! So how did yours look on the display floor? The one I'm looking at has a darkish picture and I'm wondering if it's just the display model.

All rptv's seem dim compared to flat panels and especially lcd flat panels....especially in a showroom.
I don't own a 734 but am considering either a 73734 or a 65833 and neither would be too dim at home, unless it was placed in a sunroom/patio.


734 owners:
-How is the sharpness on these sets?
-Are there any controls for sharpness besides the "Sharpness Slider"?

My girlfriend always complains when the majority of the screen is white on my WD-Y577 (WD-57733 and WD-57734 hybrid). Even large white text can be blinding!

The whine issue is only present if you sit right in front of the TV and actively listen for it. The internal speakers are pretty weak but who uses the internal speakers these days?

Agreed with the above responses. I believe the affected build dates for the whine is for October and earlier. As far as the tv being dim or a concern of being too dim I also agree it could be the comparison to LCD's. However it could also be settings or even the bulb on the floor model has a significant amount of time on it. In the home, brightness isn't even close to being an issue.

What about sharpness and any and all controls for sharpness?

What about sharpness and any and all controls for sharpness?

It does have sharpness control but I'm not sure how much need there is for it. Now if you are actually referring to edge enhancement/definition then I've found that to be very good on the tv via the ShareEdge control. I personally use the low setting for broadcast television.

To add, if you are also wondering about the overall shaprness of the picture...it varies because of variances in broadcast material but for BluRay...Razor!

Thanks Closet Geek!

One more question for you...what does CNET mean by the following?
"minor artifacts in fine details caused by geometry correction system"

And is this something that can be turned off?

Thanks Closet Geek!

One more question for you...what does CNET mean by the following?
"minor artifacts in fine details caused by geometry correction system"

And is this something that can be turned off?

That's a good question but I'm not sure I'm the best person to answer it. I would really be more of a what I think they're talking about.

However, as far as turning it off I don't believe that you can. With that I don't think you'll need to. I've only experienced what I believe to be what they are talking about in certain programs, Law and Order comes to mind for whatever reason. Sometimes you can see some of the "make up" of the scenes edges and angles but it's hard to tell how much of it is the tv and how much is the broadcast. But for the most part, beyond that it's not something that I've noticed anyway.

I just don't see getting better bang for your buck.

I haven't noticed any artifacting aside from the obvious artifacts of compressed media. Red still has issues due to the MPEG/JPEG compression used but everything else looks tip-top sharp and precise.

I looked up this series in Consumer Reports today and they gave it a middle-of-the-road rating. Not the best but not the worst either. I say that for the price range it's a top value.

Some time ago, we had a 52628 that had some brighteness flickering and Mits replaced our TV with a 57734 and it's been great, but have the whine. Luckily the whine only lasts for 1 minute or so. What I am noticing a lot is really bad grain in scenes that are dark that appear as quick flashes in certain areas of the picture. When pausing on the places where it appears to be flashing, there are large groupings of what I would describe are "grain".

I notice this on HD-DVD movies, too. Not just Comcast. What exactly is the cause of this? The only way I seem to greatly reduce this is to turn the brightness way down to where it's almost unwatchable. I have tried Bright, Natural and Brilliant, but I really like to see things as bright as possible. Any suggestions?

That is compression artifacting.

On SD-DVDs it's a result of the high precision of the image being created due to the relatively low resolution source (ie. 720x480 vs 1280x720 vs 1920x1080). On SD sets this isn't very noticable and isn't really bothersome. If you're watching a DVD on an HDTV these artifacts can become quite apparent. The amount of artifacting is generally dependant on the type of compression used (ie. MPEG vs AC1) and the bitrate of the compressed video.

Artifacting on digital broadcast is generally worst on satellite transmissions as lots of data has to be sent over a realatively "small" connection. Cable broadcasts are generally OK while over-the-air broadcasts tend to have the best image quality thanks to less compression being used.

That is compression artifacting.

On SD-DVDs it's a result of the high precision of the image being created due to the relatively low resolution source (ie. 720x480 vs 1280x720 vs 1920x1080). On SD sets this isn't very noticable and isn't really bothersome. If you're watching a DVD on an HDTV these artifacts can become quite apparent. The amount of artifacting is generally dependant on the type of compression used (ie. MPEG vs AC1) and the bitrate of the compressed video.

Artifacting on digital broadcast is generally worst on satellite transmissions as lots of data has to be sent over a realatively "small" connection. Cable broadcasts are generally OK while over-the-air broadcasts tend to have the best image quality thanks to less compression being used.

Great info, thanks! I wonder if it's possible for manufactures to use a filter of sorts to reduce this? Well, not much I can do about it. Either turn the brightness down or live with. Appreciate the reply!

I have had my set (65734), for about 7 weeks, but only using it for about the past month (no where to put it when it arrived :p). I haven't had any major issues with it, beyond the occasional RBE. However, tonight in the middle of Lost it just turned off and the red 'lamp' light came on. I tried turning it back on right away, but nothing happened, then after about 15 minutes and it came up okay. I am not sure what caused this, and if I should be worried.

I want to check the lamp life, but it never seems to work for me. The command is (on the remote) MENU-2-4-7-0, yes? Every time I do this, the menu simply pops up and then nothing. Am I missing something? Thanks for all the help.

EDIT: I programmed the option menu command sequence into my Pronto, that made it work :D It shows I have only used 49 hours of bulb life, so is there something wrong that I should look into further, or was this a random, one time glitch?

hi, i was wondering is anyone could help me with my wd-73833 not recognizing my pioneer (vsx-94-txh)avr when connected via hdmi.
I have a ps3 connected to the avr via hdmi and the reciever connected to the tv via hdmi, my problem is the tv will not detect the avr in the hdmi slot. For example if the avr is connected into the HDMI-1 slot, i cannot change the tv input to hdmi-1. I tested to make sure all the cables work and the slot worked by connecting the ps3 directly into the tv and everything seemed to work fine. I can however trick the tv into recognizing the avr by first plugging the ps3 directly into hdmi 1 then switching it out with the hdmi cable from the reciever, i can then plug the ps3 into the reciever and achieve surrond sound, but its a pain if i ever switch inputs to regular tv or my non hd satilite box, becuase the tv will no longer recognize the reciever and i have to keep swapping cables around till i can get the tv to recognize the reciever once again. I hope i havent confused you all too much, if anyone can understand what i am trying to describe, or has experienced any simmilar problems please let me kow if there are any fixes. thank you all in advance, sorry i am a noob at all this.

What grade of HDMI cable are you using? Mitsubishi recommends grade 3 HDMI 1.3 cables.

What grade of HDMI cable are you using? Mitsubishi recommends grade 3 HDMI 1.3 cables.


HDMI is HDMI.

:confused:
i just got off the phone with mitsubishi, the customer service rep basically told me that the tv will not recognize an avr reciever via hdmi input. i was told to buy a digital coax cable to connect the receiver to the tv and pulg all hdmi units directly into the tv, but doesnt this slightly defeat the purpose of buying a hdmi reciever? i guess it shouldn't matter, but i would like to be able to control all my components thru the reciever if possible. If anyone out there knows a quick fix for my problem please let me know, i would appreciate it alot.

Some possibly useful info if you're considering the purchase of an extended warranty -


Excerpts from http://www.gripe2ed.com/scoop/story/2008/2/28/1371/09249

I've been a TV servicer for 35 years and an independent factory authorized servicer for most of that time. In the past, my profession never recommended extended warranties, since they would typically cost more than one or two repairs.

There was a change that took place around 2000-02. The manufacturers responded to pressure from dealers and customers, and redesigned TVs to be home repairable by exchanging circuit boards. The problem is that no one builds new boards for old sets, and when they run out (18-24 months) the TV becomes unrepairable.

The lifespan of TVs used to be about fifteen years, but that is no longer the case. Most servicers feel that the lifespan of the newer models will be about five years, and that any repair after about two years will result in replacement rather than repair.

Based on the past history of the following failure modes, servicers feel that there will be a severely limited lifespan of new TVs:

...Circuit boards flex with age. Older-type components will move with the board. BGA and PLCC integrated circuits will pop loose from the board under the stress, and virtually all digital circuitry uses this kind of IC.

...No-lead solder is more brittle than leaded solder, and will develop poor connections much quicker, causing intermittent problems to occur.

...Electrolytic capacitors in current use have an organic-based electrolyte. They have two common failure modes - leakage and changed values. The electrolyte is corrosive, and literally eats through the circuit boards when they leak.

I have had my set (65734), for about 7 weeks, but only using it for about the past month (no where to put it when it arrived :p). I haven't had any major issues with it, beyond the occasional RBE. However, tonight in the middle of Lost it just turned off and the red 'lamp' light came on. I tried turning it back on right away, but nothing happened, then after about 15 minutes and it came up okay. I am not sure what caused this, and if I should be worried.

I want to check the lamp life, but it never seems to work for me. The command is (on the remote) MENU-2-4-7-0, yes? Every time I do this, the menu simply pops up and then nothing. Am I missing something? Thanks for all the help.

EDIT: I programmed the option menu command sequence into my Pronto, that made it work :D It shows I have only used 49 hours of bulb life, so is there something wrong that I should look into further, or was this a random, one time glitch?

I'm suspecting (hopeful) that it was just a one time glitch. People seem to have different "one time glitch" experiences. Mine was at the first power up. I was able to highlight options via the remote but wasn't able to make the actual selection. I eventually just did a reset and no problems since. If it happens again I would definitely call for service.

Anyone have a Harmony Remote 880 with a 7734? For some reason when I try to reconfigure our remote, I only have 1 HDMI port when the TV has 4. Logitech forums don't seem to be able to offer much help.

Hi all, I need to get a great price on the MB-57PB
for the 57734. I am located in the east,I you could suggest some sources for this stand. Thanks, Duke

It usually comes on very early on Saturday morning, like 5am, 6am. You can either do a search on the DVR for Test Pattern or go to the HDNet website and do a program search.

My cable company dropped HDNet. Do any of the other channels carry anything like it?

I am considering purchasing a 734, i was wondering does this model have audio leveler? I have called mitts and they said yes but the guy i talked to seemed like he was not even sure what i was talking about. With my tv now no 2 channels are the same volume drives me nuts.

I am considering purchasing a 734, i was wondering does this model have audio leveler? I have called mitts and they said yes but the guy i talked to seemed like he was not even sure what i was talking about. With my tv now no 2 channels are the same volume drives me nuts.

Yes it does. <Level Sound>

thank you!!!! Also was wondering i am about 10 feet away. What size do u guys have and how does sd look? I will be getting hd sat. service but i am sure i will also be viewing some sd also.

Am I correct in thinking that the 734's and 833's do not allow for AV HDMI switching?
Or do they?

thank you!!!! Also was wondering i am about 10 feet away. What size do u guys have and how does sd look? I will be getting hd sat. service but i am sure i will also be viewing some sd also.

Somewhat relative depending on the source and some other factors beyond our control. Generally speaking I'd say the tv (65734) does an average to slightly above average job with SD. Having said that, there are times where it's unbelievable and other's when it's unwatchable. However, these extremes are dependent on the quality of the source/source material and not the tv. Unfortunately, the same goes for HD as well because it's not all consistent.

Again, I have the 65" and I primarily sit about 12 feet from the tv, which probably doesn't result in too much perceivable PQ difference from 10 feet. However, it is true that with SD, the farther you are from the screen the better it looks. Opposite with HD content.

Am I correct in thinking that the 734's and 833's do not allow for AV HDMI switching?
Or do they?

I do not have this capability yet but I believe they do allow but it's predicated on the receiver. For example, I believe there are/were problems with the Onkyo's but Denon's worked fine.

:confused:
i just got off the phone with mitsubishi, the customer service rep basically told me that the tv will not recognize an avr reciever via hdmi input. i was told to buy a digital coax cable to connect the receiver to the tv and pulg all hdmi units directly into the tv, but doesnt this slightly defeat the purpose of buying a hdmi reciever? i guess it shouldn't matter, but i would like to be able to control all my components thru the reciever if possible. If anyone out there knows a quick fix for my problem please let me know, i would appreciate it alot.

I have one hdmi cable from my Yammie RX-V:)1800 to the Mitsu. My DishNet stb, br and hd-dvd players are connected to the Yammie via hdmi. No problems at all.

I did hear that Yamaha's were compatible as well. It would be nice if there were a list somewhere illustrating compatible components. Seems like this would fall in line with the Simplay feature.

I have one hdmi cable from my Yammie RX-V:)1800 to the Mitsu. My DishNet stb, br and hd-dvd players are connected to the Yammie via hdmi. No problems at all.

I have my Direct, my DVD, hooked into my Denon 2807 with HDMI, then out to my 65734 with HDMI. No problems. I even have a Laser Disc into the Denon with S Video too.

thank you!!!! Also was wondering i am about 10 feet away. What size do u guys have and how does sd look? I will be getting hd sat. service but i am sure i will also be viewing some sd also.

I have digital cable which includes SD and HD channels. I picked up a Mitsubishi WD-Y577 last month and let it do all the upscaling. In most cases it looks decent with minor artifacting. Some channels exhibit blurring which I know for certian is not my TV.

Picture quality is terribly dependant on signal quality...the same channel can vary quite a bit, basedon the material they dleiver, too. An older, more compressed DVD might look pretty awful, whereas a DVD with better (less) compression looks just fine - I'm pretty surprised at how well my Y657 upscales DVD.

how far away are u viewing your 65 i will be using direct tv hd

I have one hdmi cable from my Yammie RX-V:)1800 to the Mitsu. My DishNet stb, br and hd-dvd players are connected to the Yammie via hdmi. No problems at all.
My cable DVR and HD DVD are connected to my Onkyo 705 via HDMI then one HDMI cable from Onkyo to Mits 73734. Works great.

So my son decided to spray a ton of windex multi surface cleaner on the screen of our 73734. It of course ran down the screen and now I have black spots at the bottom of my screen. where it wicked up between the screens.

Anyone know if and how I can get the anti glare screen off to clean this up or am I just screwed.

So my son decided to spray a ton of windex multi surface cleaner on the screen of our 73734. It of course ran down the screen and now I have black spots at the bottom of my screen. where it wicked up between the screens.

Yikes, have you put him up for adoption?

Newegg has the matching Mits stand (MB-73PB) for $369.99, pretty good price...

For the price of the stand, you can go to a nice furniture store, and get a actually piece of furniture. you can search for entertainment system, or TV stand, Mitsubishi has the dimension for your set online.

I'm suspecting (hopeful) that it was just a one time glitch. People seem to have different "one time glitch" experiences. Mine was at the first power up. I was able to highlight options via the remote but wasn't able to make the actual selection. I eventually just did a reset and no problems since. If it happens again I would definitely call for service.
Unfortunately this has now happened two more times. :( On Mitsu's website they list a host of different support numbers, which department should I contact, warranty? Should I go straight to a local authorized repair place? As always, thanks!

For the price of the stand, you can go to a nice furniture store, and get a actually piece of furniture.

Not likely. Have you looked at what passes for A/V furniture out there? 2-3x the price, and mostly pretty ugly stuff...

So, after 2 weeks of it being "Lost" they finally delivered my Mitsu yesterday. I snapped at the delivery driver because he was rolling the tv box up the stairs. I don't know if that's a problem but I can't imagine turning the tv upside down over and over again isn't best practice.

I noticed upon first powering on that the system menus vibrate a bit. It seems to be only on the system menus as none of the input video has a wobble affect. I don't know if this is normal but it's rather annoying when setting up the system. I'm hoping it wasn't a result of tipping the tv over and over.

I haven't experienced the "HUM" either but there was a slight scent after letting the tv run for an hour. It wasn't bad and I'm sure it's just burn off but none the less it's there.

The picture is truely amazing, I jacked the PS3 into the front HDMI port loaded Casino Royal and was amazed at the quality difference between my 47" 1080p LCD. I'll go through tweaking the video settings this weekend and throw up a couple of pictures.

MP

Not likely. Have you looked at what passes for A/V furniture out there? 2-3x the price, and mostly pretty ugly stuff...

I disagree with you, in Dec we bought a y657 and the prices of the stands in C.C. and Best buy where any where from 250 to 389 and we didn't like any of them, we went to about 4 furniture stores until we found what we liked we paid 399 for a nice piece of furniture. the only way to go.:cool:

After placing an order for the 73734 and matching stand from that river store and waiting the absolute longest 7-days of my life for delivery, it arrived yesterday. Woo Hoo!

It has a Sept. '07 build date. I do not have any detectable whine from the unit. It did have some screen geometry issues out of the box. However, after reading every post from all 53 pages of this thread, I was ready and prepared to enter the SM and make the corrections. I'm now quite pleased with the results.

I completed some quick basic calibrations using a THX Blu Ray disk. The results are very pleasing but I'm looking forward to the weekend to spend some quality time with the settings.

This isn't my 1st HDTV nor is it my 1st Mitsubishi. So far, I'm pretty pleased with the purchase. Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing experiences and indirectly assuring me that this purchase, with some flaws, would be worth the experience.

I disagree with you, in Dec we bought a y657 and the prices of the stands in C.C. and Best buy where any where from 250 to 389 and we didn't like any of them, we went to about 4 furniture stores until we found what we liked we paid 399 for a nice piece of furniture. the only way to go.:cool:

But what was this piece? Just one piece, or a whole cabinet system? I've seen the ones with a stand for the TV, matching cabinets on the sides, and cabinets above the TV reaching $1000. I'm sure you CAN find a simple stand for $400 or a table, but a "system" isn't going to be cheap.

But what was this piece? Just one piece, or a whole cabinet system? I've seen the ones with a stand for the TV, matching cabinets on the sides, and cabinets above the TV reaching $1000. I'm sure you CAN find a simple stand for $400 or a table, but a "system" isn't going to be cheap.

It was just the tv stand, yes it had the side cabinets and all you are talking about, but we just wanted the stand, not all the other stuff, they sold the pieces separtly if you wanted it that way.:cool:

Unfortunately this has now happened two more times. :( On Mitsu's website they list a host of different support numbers, which department should I contact, warranty? Should I go straight to a local authorized repair place? As always, thanks!

Bummer!

I don't recall if you mentioned previously if it was an online or brick and mortar purchase?

Assuming the latter, you should be able to call the store and set up a service call. Otherwise call the warranty department and have them set up an appointment with an authorized service tech.

I disagree with you, in Dec we bought a y657 and the prices of the stands in C.C. and Best buy where any where from 250 to 389 and we didn't like any of them, we went to about 4 furniture stores until we found what we liked we paid 399 for a nice piece of furniture. the only way to go.:cool:

I went through this struggle as well as I was not at all a fan of the Mits. stands but there are deal out there on quality pieces. All I wanted was a stand for the tv with the ability to put my components underneath but I didn't want to pay a lot for it.

I actually found a stand from the same place that I bought the tv from ( a place with a very patriotic name that sells electronics, furniture and appliances). About twice a year they run a "friends and family" promotion where you pay only half the mark up and I was able to get the stand for $220.

It's very sturdy with heavy smoked glass shelves and pillars are cherry stained wood. You also had the option of black. It blends in very well with a high end but not high tech look. The wood isn't cheap looking and the smoked glass is high grade and again high end. If it were clear, like most that I saw, I would not have liked it at all.

The only bad thing about it was that they delivered it in a box. Who orders furniture from a furniture store only to have to put it together yourself? I called and told them that if I wanted to do that then I would have gotten a Sauder from Target. So I ended up getting the delivery charge waived ($50). I'm happy. And putting it together was a snap for those of you who have put baby furniture together.

Bummer!

I don't recall if you mentioned previously if it was an online or brick and mortar purchase?

Assuming the latter, you should be able to call the store and set up a service call. Otherwise call the warranty department and have them set up an appointment with an authorized service tech.
This was an on-line purchase. Which I am now both happy, and a bit bummed about. I am happy because it was hundreds of dollars cheaper than what the brick-and-mortar store right down the street from my house was asking, but had I bought from them they could be over to have a look at it in about 10 minutes.

Off to call the warranty department! Thanks for the info and help!

Thing is after each of these 'episodes', after like 5 minutes it is working 100% perfectly again. Ohh well, hopefully Mitsu will get me straightened out.

The input on my Mitsu which is connected to my cable box has stopped showing a picture. The input for my HD player quit too, but once I disconnected it from the TV and reconnected, it worked. When I did this for the cable box it did not???

Can someone help me out? I gotta get it fixed before the big ACC showdown...UNC vs Duke!!

Thanks!!!

The only bad thing about it was that they delivered it in a box. Who orders furniture from a furniture store only to have to put it together yourself?

Guess you've never heard of IKEA...

The input on my Mitsu which is connected to my cable box has stopped showing a picture. The input for my HD player quit too, but once I disconnected it from the TV and reconnected, it worked. When I did this for the cable box it did not???

Can someone help me out? I gotta get it fixed before the big ACC showdown...UNC vs Duke!!

Thanks!!!
you may want to try to unplug the power from the cablebox so that it can reboot. (or check the owerns manual for rebooting process - usually pressing and holding 2 buttons).

you may want to try to unplug the power from the cablebox so that it can reboot. (or check the owerns manual for rebooting process - usually pressing and holding 2 buttons).

First thing I did!

This was an on-line purchase. Which I am now both happy, and a bit bummed about. I am happy because it was hundreds of dollars cheaper than what the brick-and-mortar store right down the street from my house was asking, but had I bought from them they could be over to have a look at it in about 10 minutes.

Off to call the warranty department! Thanks for the info and help!

Thing is after each of these 'episodes', after like 5 minutes it is working 100% perfectly again. Ohh well, hopefully Mitsu will get me straightened out.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

Guess you've never heard of IKEA...

:D :D :D

That's an exception in that you go there knowing ahead of time what you are in for. This was like going to La Z Boy and having to put the recliner together. Silly!

:D :D :D

That's an exception in that you go there knowing ahead of time what you are in for. This was like going to La Z Boy and having to put the recliner together. Silly!

I purchased furniture from a Rooms To Go in Georgia, and had to put the end tables and coffe table together. It was a little strange; just glad they didn't have me put the couch and love seat together!

Good luck and let us know how it works out.Repair guy is coming out next Friday (1-week from today). I'll report back with what he finds/does.

Repair guy is coming out next Friday (1-week from today). I'll report back with what he finds/does.

Hurry up and wait.

Hello all... I am a newbie here, and this is my first post, but have been reading this thread for the last couple of weeks. I purchased a 73734 a month ago with a manufacture date of November, 2007 and have had absolutely no problems with it as described by several members on this discussion (whine, fan noise, etc). (knock on wood and cross all fingers) The PQ is amazing and my geomety is right on right out of the box!

I am extremely happy with this TV and would recommend it to anyone looking for an excellent HDTV at a very reasonable price. I purchased a black and chrome stand with 3 dark glass shelves for about half of what the matching Mitsu stand costs. It is about 4" shorter than the TV, but looks great. My only complaint aboout this set is the onboard speakers... They sound pretty tinny... that is a problem with having speakers enclosed in plastic rather than wood. And of course they are pretty small. But it is pretty much a non-issue as I run my sound thru a very effecient surround system.

I want to thank those of you for posting the codes to the service menu and the bulb life data. Does someone have a list of different codes besides these two? Also, when you are in the service menu, how do you change the geometry? I have read that some of you have tweaked the geometry and I don't see how.

I have been running the TV for quite a few hours a day for the last month and am curious to see just how many hours I get before the first bulb replacement. I believe Mitsu claims about 5000 hours. The guys at CC told me 5-8000 hours. I will be buying an extended warranty if for nothing more than bulbs. They are pretty pricey.

Again thanks for the info and long live 734's!!

Greetings, and welcome to the Mitsu clan!

Mitsubishi does not claim, or provide, a lifetime for the lamp. they go out of their way to avoid making any claims on lamp life. Over 5000 hours seems pretty unlikely to me. under 5k hours, and likely nearer 2-3 thousand, would be my guess.

We have sold many Mitsubishi DLP sets since the first generation. Our clients seem to average 6000-7000 hours for most lamps. Occasionally we see one fail much earlier. Some go much longer. The first generation of sets had a lamp timer that recommended replacing the lamp after 4000 hours. It confused and annoyed many people and most got far longer than that, so they removed it from later sets.

For those who have their TV on a 2-shelf stand, is there a preferred placement for the components on the stand? Should the center channel speaker be on the top shelf? Any placement considerations for the receiver due to magnetic interference or heat? Thanks!

Greetings, and welcome to the Mitsu clan!

Mitsubishi does not claim, or provide, a lifetime for the lamp. they go out of their way to avoid making any claims on lamp life. Over 5000 hours seems pretty unlikely to me. under 5k hours, and likely nearer 2-3 thousand, would be my guess.


Well Chuck,
You may be very right... I am new to DLP RPTV. My only experience with RPTV is an 11 year old Pioneer 60" 16:10.7 that is still working today and has a lot of hours on it... I will report back when I need to change the bulb. I have ordered a spare bulb from a 3rd party to have on hand, as I have read about the slow delivery from Mits.

gc734

Hello All, I know most people probably have their sets set to 'Natural' mode, somehow I have tried all the different calibration suggestions from different AVS members and came right back to the Brilliant settings with dark detailer set to 'on'. I realize that I sacrifice some visible artifacts ecpecially in dark sceens but this is the setting that has the most pop to me.

Everything thing looks good so far except skin tones seem to have a reddish/pinkish push that I can't seem to get rid of. Anyone using the 'Brilliant' or 'Bright' setting wish to share what they use for their 'perfect color/perfect tint settings to get a more natural skin tone.

Thanks

Hello.

First, thank you all so much for your posts.

That takes a lot of time and it is much appreciated.

I just purchased a 73734 and I am a bit disappointed.
All sources (DVD, Cable, Games) have a strong blue tint.

White shirts have a royal blue tint.

Anything even close to royal blue is extremely dominant, almost glowing.

I have tried adjusting Pefect Tint and Perfect Color with no improvements.

My factory settings for (GRL,GGL,GBL) low color are , 1024,1024,1024.

Have you heard of anyone else having issues with the blue like mine?

People with blue eyes have royal blue, almost fake contact-looking eyes.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Jay

Hello.

First, thank you all so much for your posts.

That takes a lot of time and it is much appreciated.

I just purchased a 73734 and I am a bit disappointed.
All sources (DVD, Cable, Games) have a strong blue tint.

White shirts have a royal blue tint.

Anything even close to royal blue is extremely dominant, almost glowing.

I have tried adjusting Pefect Tint and Perfect Color with no improvements.

My factory settings for (GRL,GGL,GBL) low color are , 1024,1024,1024.

Have you heard of anyone else having issues with the blue like mine?

People with blue eyes have royal blue, almost fake contact-looking eyes.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Jay

If your picture setting is on Brilliant or even Bright then you might have this effect as they are "cooler" settings. The Natural setting is a "warmer" setting and should help with this problem.

If you are using the Natural setting then either further PC/PT adjustments are necessary or possibly a service menu adjustment (GBL).

A final thought, what is the source material that you are evaluating? I can't speak much to games but they're probably not the best thing to evaluate picture. Are you using Blu Ray, HD DVD or SD? For cable, what are you watching? Keep in mind that PQ varies greatly across channels so that might be an issue as well.

We have sold many Mitsubishi DLP sets since the first generation. Our clients seem to average 6000-7000 hours for most lamps.

Now that is some good news! I'm happy to be wrong on this one....


On the old Pioneer RPTV: is that a CRT projector? Those things will last a good ling time!

Thanks for the response.

Primarily watching DVDs on Standard Def. DVD player.

Problem is most dominant on DVDs and HD cable channels.

I do have settings on Natural.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Well I finally got all my equipment togather and I have a few quesitons.

List of Equipment:
Mits 65734
Pioneer 92TXH
Definitive Tech Pro Cinema 5.1 Speakers
Sony Blu-Ray SD300
Toshiba HD-DVD A3
Philips 5982
D-Link Media Player
Wii
Laptop

I have included a diagram to show how thing are wired.

Question/Issues:
1) I have my BD and HD along with my D-link hooked up HDMI to the Pioneer and then an HDMI out to TV from AVR to Mits. The problem is I keep getting HDMI switching not supported please run Digial Coax to recv. Which I have already done.

Did I set-up something wrong.


2) I would like to hook up my laptop via HDMI to HDMI 4 on the TV, but for some reason the full screen is cut off. I have selected 1080P resolution on my computer.

When hooking up something like a PS3, should I set it to full or limited RGB?

Just got the Mits stand for the 73734. Had the glass shelf in the center, looks like it's gonna have to be higher to give the receiver enough clearance on the bottom shelf. With it centered, each shelf has about 7 3/4" height available. Do other folks have the glass shelf off center?

Hadn't really had the opportunity to look closely at the stand before purchase. It works well with the TV, but seems remarkably overpriced for what is essentially a couple pieces of particleboard and a piece of glass. Of course, you could probably say that about most furniture...

...

You had previously noted an artifact (before I registered) that you thought was grainy noise. Someone told you it was a problem with the source video. They were wrong.

When a dlp runs out of dynamic range in a dark area, it starts alternately turning pixels off in that zone. As the area gets darker, it starts turning off more pixels. The Off pixels are randomly shifted around in the area, which gives the appearance of grainy noise. Some describe it as looking like ants crawling around on the screen.

We have sold many Mitsubishi DLP sets since the first generation. Our clients seem to average 6000-7000 hours for most lamps. Occasionally we see one fail much earlier. Some go much longer. The first generation of sets had a lamp timer that recommended replacing the lamp after 4000 hours. It confused and annoyed many people and most got far longer than that, so they removed it from later sets.

Do many systems have a 180 Watt lamp like these? It seems a little higher in power than was necessary.

I find this system brighter than necessary for most of my evening viewing. I turn on a light in the room to soften the intense whites on some commercials. People watching afternoon shows probably like it.

Long ago I suggested to the Lamp manufacturers that they incorporate a automatic brightness control into their ballast, as was common on old CRT TVs. I guess they didn't listen to me. Note: If the brightness is adjusted at the Lamp, it will not affect the dynamic range of the system. Adjustments at the OSD do affect dynamic range.

My 65734 was built in 2/11/2008. After a few days of use, the fan got loud and annoying at 10-12 foot viewing distance. The fan noise continues for about 30 seconds after the TV is powered Off, as the Lamp sequences to full Off.

I measured it with a sound meter an got 40-44 dBa at around 1 meter. This seems about 6-10 dB higher than projectors were several years ago. I can find no audible noise spec in the manual for this unit.

Anyone else got this howl?

Thanks for the response.

Primarily watching DVDs on Standard Def. DVD player.

Problem is most dominant on DVDs and HD cable channels.

I do have settings on Natural.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Perhaps try a novice calibration. Do you have a DVD with the THX Optimizer on it? And/or if you have HDNet I believe they are broadcasting a test pattern this weekend that you can also use. I think it's very early Saturday morning (5 or 6am). Beyond that you're likely looking at going into the service menu or a professional calibration.

Note that it's hard to diagnose without seeing it. And I don't think many others have had any issues with a blue push. Red, yes, but not so much blue. Also, I wonder if this is an effect unique to cable as opposed to satellite?

Thanks for the response.

Primarily watching DVDs on Standard Def. DVD player.

Problem is most dominant on DVDs and HD cable channels.

I do have settings on Natural.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

Searching the forums should always be the first thing you do before posting...

Mits Tweak thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=733591)
... Read, Do, Adjust to your preference... Done.

You had previously noted an artifact (before I registered) that you thought was grainy noise. Someone told you it was a problem with the source video. They were wrong.

When a dlp runs out of dynamic range in a dark area, it starts alternately turning pixels off in that zone. As the area gets darker, it starts turning off more pixels. The Off pixels are randomly shifted around in the area, which gives the appearance of grainy noise. Some describe it as looking like ants crawling around on the screen.

It's somewhat odd or funny to be reading this because I was just watching a recorded episode of Lost and it was just horrible. Our 52628 NEVER had this problem. Interestingly, I switched over to The Good Shepherd on HBO HD and it was a perfect picture. Even moreso interesting is that I have noticed this on a few HD-DVD movies where the "snow or dirty picture" causes the screen to seem to flash. I will say this- I suspect it's something with the TV because as I said earlier, we never had this problem once on our 52628. I like our TV, but I am not overly impressed with Mitsubishi at all. We have all kinds of issues with our Mits TVs. My buddy has a Sharp Aquos and it's pretty damn amazing. I thing our next TV will be a Sharp for sure.

Finally got it,my new 65734 last Tuesday. After almost 3 weeks of waiting it arrived in great condition. No problems. Manufactured date Oct 07, but no Humm. The only problem I got is no HD feed yet. After switching from D* to Dish, I wound up with #1 tv in bedroom (HD) and no HD signal in LR. Now they want $150 for new receiver and extra charge to rewire. Long story, but looks like I'll go back to D* (have no commitment). Anyway, even with SD, picture looks great. Can't wait to get HD.

It's somewhat odd or funny to be reading this because I was just watching a recorded episode of Lost and it was just horrible. Our 52628 NEVER had this problem. Interestingly, I switched over to The Good Shepherd on HBO HD and it was a perfect picture. Even moreso interesting is that I have noticed this on a few HD-DVD movies where the "snow or dirty picture" causes the screen to seem to flash. I will say this- I suspect it's something with the TV because as I said earlier, we never had this problem once on our 52628. I like our TV, but I am not overly impressed with Mitsubishi at all. We have all kinds of issues with our Mits TVs. My buddy has a Sharp Aquos and it's pretty damn amazing. I thing our next TV will be a Sharp for sure.

All dlps will have this to some degree. It may be aggravated by some source video or the color transfer curve selected by some manufacturers.

To be more general, each type of light modulator has some unique artifacts.

I have worked at two companies that made light modulators and looked at a lot of different projectors. I bought the 65734 because it looked the best to me. Before you get mad, see if anyone else can do better.

A fix for the HOWLING problems.

I have had a 65734 for a couple weeks now and noticed the fan howling after about a 1 hour warm up.

I used an accoustic meter to locate the main source. Of course, it was the fan in front of the lamp. I measured about 53 dBa at the air outlet from that fan.

I also measured sound coming from vents in the bottom of the TV and could see light coming out the vents. These vents have almost no airflow when the TV is on a flat surface. (Bad design)

I put 3 pieces of lumber 2X4 14 inchs long under the bottom of the TV (the base stand).

At first I used a fan to blow air from the front under the TV, but later removed the extra fan.

The fan noise contined to drop from the time I first put the lumber underneth the TV. Within about 1 hour the noise had dropped from 53 dba to around 42 dBa at the fan outlet and about 32 dBa at the front of the TV.

The fan speed must be controlled by a thermocouple and speed up as the lamp heats up. This fix seems to improve air flow to the lamp. I would expect that this fix may extend Lamp life too.

32 dBa is VERY GOOD and reasonable for TV viewing at 12 feet (in my opinion).

I plan to go try and find 5 wood sticks that are 1 5/8 square and 14 inches long and put then under the TV where feet or X supports are in the plastic base.

If this fix isn't clear, please just ask me for clarification.

It is VERY easy and the noise performance improvement is impressive.

*****BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE TV SLIDE OFF OF THE TABLE WHEN YOU INSTALL THE BOARDS****

Now that is some good news! I'm happy to be wrong on this one....


On the old Pioneer RPTV: is that a CRT projector? Those things will last a good ling time!
Yes Chuck657... it is a CRT RPTV. It has been a very good TV and until I received my 73734, I thought the picture was still excellent. I cannot get over the difference to HDTV! It is amazing! Just to elaborate a bit, when my Pioneer was 10 years old and we moved, and I used my old Video Essentials DVD to touch up the picture. My brightness was only 2 clicks above mid-point and after adjusting, it only had to be moved up 2 more clicks. Contrast was also moved a couple of clicks. I was impressed that a 10 year old CRT model still had plenty of brightness and contrast to go! I was going to get rid of the set, but we are moving to a new house with a huge master bedroom, so we decided to keep it and put it in there :-) it has many hours on it... for 10 years it was watched 10-15 hours a day! Even at 10 hours a day, that is 36,500 hours! I suspect my 734 will not come close to that. Ha Ha...

A fix for the HOWLING problems.
I put 3 pieces of lumber 2X4 14 inchs long under the bottom of the TV (the base stand).

Looks like this wouldn't be possible if you're using the Mits stand, where the TV slides into a bracket...

Looks like this wouldn't be possible if you're using the Mits stand, where the TV slides into a bracket...

Glad to get your input.

I don't quite understand what you are describing. Does the Mits stand allow air to flow under the TV or are you saying it just prevents putting a spacer under the TV?

Last night, I was thinking of making a very short pedalstal and putting holes in the bottom with a screen that would be easier to catch dust and clean out periodically. I suppose anyone that has a non-glass TV stand surface, could just drill holes in the wood to allow air up through the bottom of the shelf.

I think my patch will aid the others that have been discussing various general purpose stands or furniture.

BTW, I did notice several stands at WalMart. Two of the pedestal types were under $100 and appeared comparable to the stuff at video stores for 3+ times that. I think they all had tempered glass shelves that could not be drilled.

I'll take a closer look at the Mits stand today. Thanks.

A fix for the HOWLING problems.

I have had a 65734 for a couple weeks now and noticed the fan howling after about a 1 hour warm up.

I used an accoustic meter to locate the main source. Of course, it was the fan in front of the lamp. I measured about 53 dBa at the air outlet from that fan.

I also measured sound coming from vents in the bottom of the TV and could see light coming out the vents. These vents have almost no airflow when the TV is on a flat surface. (Bad design)

I put 3 pieces of lumber 2X4 14 inchs long under the bottom of the TV (the base stand).

At first I used a fan to blow air from the front under the TV, but later removed the extra fan.

The fan noise contined to drop from the time I first put the lumber underneth the TV. Within about 1 hour the noise had dropped from 53 dba to around 42 dBa at the fan outlet and about 32 dBa at the front of the TV.

The fan speed must be controlled by a thermocouple and speed up as the lamp heats up. This fix seems to improve air flow to the lamp. I would expect that this fix may extend Lamp life too.

32 dBa is VERY GOOD and reasonable for TV viewing at 12 feet (in my opinion).

I plan to go try and find 5 wood sticks that are 1 5/8 square and 14 inches long and put then under the TV where feet or X supports are in the plastic base.

If this fix isn't clear, please just ask me for clarification.

It is VERY easy and the noise performance improvement is impressive.

*****BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE TV SLIDE OFF OF THE TABLE WHEN YOU INSTALL THE BOARDS****


I'm just trying to understand here. Are you saying that there are vents on the bottom of the tv on the "stand" portion of the tv? Or under the screen portion?

You mention virtually no airflow when it's on a flat surface. What other kind of surface would you use?

All dlps will have this to some degree. It may be aggravated by some source video or the color transfer curve selected by some manufacturers.

To be more general, each type of light modulator has some unique artifacts.

I have worked at two companies that made light modulators and looked at a lot of different projectors. I bought the 65734 because it looked the best to me. Before you get mad, see if anyone else can do better.

Thanks for the reply. I am not really mad about our TV, just a little disappointed. I can't speak about other TV manufactures, but Mitsubishi, starting on the ground all the way to final product is average and nothing stellar IMO.

I'm just trying to understand here. Are you saying that there are vents on the bottom of the tv on the "stand" portion of the tv? Or under the screen portion?

You mention virtually no airflow when it's on a flat surface. What other kind of surface would you use?

Good question, I think I have used the word "stand" for both the base attached to the screen and the separate piece of furnature that the TV sits on.

http://www.tweeter.com/product/skugrfx/WD57734reg.jpg
Photo of Screen and Base only.


New naming convention:

Screen (Display portion of TV)
Base (Support under TV Screen)
Stand (Separate piece of furnature from TV)


I am talking about vents on the bottom of the Base portion of the TV, not the Screen.

I also would expect most Stand shelves to be a solid flat surface (typically wood or glass) and provide no ventilation. I believe I saw this problem happen where I worked once. All the Quality Assurance thermal testing was done on wire rack shelving which allowed ventilation that was not available in consumer installations.

The feet on the Base are about 1/8 inch taller than the rest of the bottom edge. So the air ventilation is limited to the air that can flow through that small gap.
Maybe they intended to put bigger rubber feet on at one time, that would have allowed more air flow????

If you can drag the TV Base about 2 inches off to the left (when facing Screen) side of your Stand without it tipping over, you will be able to see the lamp light shining through the vent slits under the Base. It appears they go the fill width of the Base.

Glad to get your input.
I don't quite understand what you are describing. Does the Mits stand allow air to flow under the TV or are you saying it just prevents putting a spacer under the TV?

Near as I can tell, it doesn't allow for airflow under the TV.

The feet on the Base are about 1/8 inch taller than the rest of the bottom edge. So the air ventilation is limited to the air that can flow through that small gap.
Maybe they intended to put bigger rubber feet on at one time, that would have allowed more air flow????

If you can drag the TV Base about 2 inches off to the left (when facing Screen) side of your Stand without it tipping over, you will be able to see the lamp light shining through the vent slits under the Base. It appears they go the fill width of the Base.

Interesting. I'll have to investigate this more over the weekend. I'm not having any issues with the noise (for now) but I'm more interested in the possibility of preserving bulb life.

I'd be curious to know under your or any other similar fix to this would cause the lamp light to be visible from under the base during dark room viewing? Especially off of a glass surface like mine?

And I obviously haven't looked at it yet but I wonder if a simple application of thicker rubber feet would sufice?

Near as I can tell, it doesn't allow for airflow under the TV.

Thanks for the info as I never got by to look at the stand.


Interesting. I'll have to investigate this more over the weekend. I'm not having any issues with the noise (for now) but I'm more interested in the possibility of preserving bulb life.

I'd be curious to know under your or any other similar fix to this would cause the lamp light to be visible from under the base during dark room viewing? Especially off of a glass surface like mine?

And I obviously haven't looked at it yet but I wonder if a simple application of thicker rubber feet would sufice?

I think we won't know the lamp life results for years. Even when lamp manufacturers do accelerated aging tests, it is just an good estimate of how real life performance will prove out.

Regarding light leakage from the lamp, I think much more is coming out the back side of the TV. This is always a problem, as good cooling air flow is contradictory to reducing the light leakage.

Tell us your findings when done. Maybe bigger feet would be okay. I didn't run tests to determine the minimum gap that would keep the noise down. Maybe 3/4 inch or even shorter feet would do good.

Last night I did try using accoustic foam to knock a few more dB off of the noise from the Lamp vents in the rear. It didn't work at all. I put accoutic foam between the TV and the wall behind it (leaving plenty of air flow space), hoping to stop accoustic noise reflections off of the wall. There was no improvement at all measured with accoustic sound meter.

Thanks for the info as I never got by to look at the stand.




I think we won't know the lamp life results for years. Even when lamp manufacturers do accelerated aging tests, it is just an good estimate of how real life performance will prove out.

Regarding light leakage from the lamp, I think much more is coming out the back side of the TV. This is always a problem, as good cooling air flow is contradictory to reducing the light leakage.

Tell us your findings when done. Maybe bigger feet would be okay. I didn't run tests to determine the minimum gap that would keep the noise down. Maybe 3/4 inch or even shorter feet would do good.

Last night I did try using accoustic foam to knock a few more dB off of the noise from the Lamp vents in the rear. It didn't work at all. I put accoutic foam between the TV and the wall behind it (leaving plenty of air flow space), hoping to stop accoustic noise reflections off of the wall. There was no improvement at all measured with accoustic sound meter.

I agree that the results for lamp life won't be immediately known but there's nothing wrong on our end to do what we can to try to prolong it.

As far as light leakage is concerned I thought about that which is coming out of the back, which cannot be seen at least from any seat in my viewing room. The differences in angle and surface reflectivity are the potential issues but I guess I'll find out.

It probably won't be for a couple of days but I will do a little experimenting and report back. Not that I'm a pack rat but I did save the rubber feet that I'm no longer using on the center channel that are about 1/2. We'll see.

On another subject, for those interested and inclined, I was browsing the "833" thread and a guy over there recently posted his ISF calibrated settings. I find them to be quite interesting and have been experimenting with them. As happy as I was with the previous settings that I posted, it seems to me that these new settings provide for much more depth and detail. Thought you might like to know.

Hurry up and wait.Well there is a happy ending to this problem. After my set would randomly shut off giving me a red lamp LED indicating a lamp failure, a Mitsubishi tech came out and simply swapped out my lamp for a new one. From the time he set foot in my door to the time he left was like 10 minutes. Great experience, (other than the initial mess up) the fixed set is like new (well it is pretty new only 65 hours on the (first) bulb).

I guessed it might have been a bad thermocouple, they tech said it was a possibility, but it was easy to just switch the parts out. :)

I've had my 57734 for a month now and I never hear the fan until a couple of days ago. Maybe its getting warmer in Dallas...

artifacthater, I shared you idea with my wife. She's a part time geek, so she understands the importants of cooling. She was ok with me drilling holes and installing fans in the back of the entertainment center for coolling, but she is concerned about appearance of putting 2x4s under the TV. Do you have pic?

Here's a pic of our current setup: http://www.cardsbytina.com/gallery/4383084_RLw63#257381635

I've had my 57734 for a month now and I never hear the fan until a couple of days ago. Maybe its getting warmer in Dallas...

artifacthater, I shared you idea with my wife. She's a part time geek, so she understands the importants of cooling. She was ok with me drilling holes and installing fans in the back of the entertainment center for coolling, but she is concerned about appearance of putting 2x4s under the TV. Do you have pic?

hughvh...my apologies for the piggy-back but I had the same question/concern about 2x4's as well.

Let me just say here that artifacthater may be on to something here. I did a little experimenting yesterday and bottom line I did hear an audible difference in fan noise. I had the tv on for about 2 hours and then I position six rubber speaker feet that are about 1/2" high and 1/2"-5/8" in diameter under the tv base. I came back about 1 1/2 to 2 hours later and the fan was noticably quieter.

For the record, this "noise" has never been a problem for me and my interests are in the possiblily of extending lamp life. I believe that the combination of my room acoustics and my "acceptance" of this noise from my 12' listening position have for the most part made this a non event for me. However, as with most things on this forum...once you know its there then it starts to bother you. Late last night when everything and everyone was quiet there was an definite lower noise level in the room, which only made the environment that much more enjoyable.

The only thing now is figuring out a permanant fix because I don't feel that what I'm currently using supports the tv enough for my comfort. And I'm not sure if using something a little taller would add more benefit. So I will be visiting the local hardware store looking for something that I can adhere to the existing rubber feet on the tv. Something preferably rubber and black like what I'm using now.

I should add that with what I'm using now the gap between the tv and my stand is not noticable from any seating position in my room.

I've had my 57734 for a month now and I never hear the fan until a couple of days ago. Maybe its getting warmer in Dallas...

artifacthater, I shared you idea with my wife. She's a part time geek, so she understands the importants of cooling. She was ok with me drilling holes and installing fans in the back of the entertainment center for coolling, but she is concerned about appearance of putting 2x4s under the TV. Do you have pic?

Yeah, mine was quiet at first too and then got louder after about 1-2 weeks.


If you used a drill and made many holes under the Base, or a hole saw and made a few holes, I wouldn't think you would need additional fans. More fans will increase noise.


Actually the 2x4s were the first thing I used as a trial. Later I went to Lowes and got some 2x2x20 wood stakes (actually size 1.5 x 1.5 x 20) and cut them down to about 15 inches length. I was looking for something between 1x1 and 1.5x1.5, and they were the best thing (clear wood) I could find.

It looked like this at that stage: (Click link)
105370

The ends of the wood would have been exposed but I plan put a piece of plastic in front of them. I will to allow the wood to stick out in front of the base about 1 inch, then cover the ends of the wood with plastic from an old TV that is similar in color to the Mits. This will cover the ends of the sticks, allow the air to flow over the top of the plastic and down under the base.

This is sort of what it would look like with the plastic in front: (Click link)
105371

Presently the plastic is just laying in front of the TV/Sticks, but I thought it would be better if you could still see where the sticks were anyway.

Sketch of Air Flow Over Plastic and Under TV: (Click link)
105373

This configuration may change in the future as I upgrade some components.
I put my sound meter away ... but maybe I should try the test again with 3/4 inch spacer boards????

I also suggest you block the hot exhaust air from the lamp from recirculating under the base. This hot exhaust is coming out the back of the TV on left side. I just put another piece of wood sideways to block the air from getting sucked under the Base on that side in the rear. The hot air should want to rise, so the obstruction probably doesn't need to be perfect.

I hope this is clear.

A few holes in the top of the TV Stand would have been a lot easier, but I was trying to keep from damaging the furnature.

hughvh...my apologies for the piggy-back but I had the same question/concern about 2x4's as well.

Let me just say here that artifacthater may be on to something here. I did a little experimenting yesterday and bottom line I did hear an audible difference in fan noise. I had the tv on for about 2 hours and then I position six rubber speaker feet that are about 1/2" high and 1/2"-5/8" in diameter under the tv base. I came back about 1 1/2 to 2 hours later and the fan was noticably quieter.

For the record, this "noise" has never been a problem for me and my interests are in the possiblily of extending lamp life. I believe that the combination of my room acoustics and my "acceptance" of this noise from my 12' listening position have for the most part made this a non event for me. However, as with most things on this forum...once you know its there then it starts to bother you. Late last night when everything and everyone was quiet there was an definite lower noise level in the room, which only made the environment that much more enjoyable.

The only thing now is figuring out a permanant fix because I don't feel that what I'm currently using supports the tv enough for my comfort. And I'm not sure if using something a little taller would add more benefit. So I will be visiting the local hardware store looking for something that I can adhere to the existing rubber feet on the tv. Something preferably rubber and black like what I'm using now.

I should add that with what I'm using now the gap between the tv and my stand is not noticable from any seating position in my room.


Yes, it gave me a 11 dBa meter measurement drop in noise which is HUGE difference in noise level and should be easy for most anyone to hear the difference.

The 1-2 hours delay it takes to restabilize is what makes it a little trickier to rely on your senses, with changes in other backgound noise, etc.

I also agree with trying other designs. My current solution isn't exactly what I want either.

Yes, it gave me a 11 dBa meter measurement drop in noise which is HUGE difference in noise level and should be easy for most anyone to hear the difference.

The 1-2 hours delay it takes to restabilize is what makes it a little trickier to rely on your senses, with changes in other backgound noise, etc.

I also agree with trying other designs. My current solution isn't exactly what I want either.

Thanks for posting your pics. I'm going to try a different approach with some rubber pads that I found at Lowe's during lunch. I found them in the section with the chair gliders and such. Basically they're round pads about an inch in diameter with an adhesive backing. My plan is to stack three of them together, which will make them about 5/8" tall and then stick them to the existing pads under the tv base. They are a more firm rubber so I don't expect them to squish from the weight of the tv. They are black, so they will blend in well with the tv and the smoked glass of the tv stand. And based on how things are set up I really don't have to worry about moving the tv but....if I for some reason need to the rubber pads won't scratch the glass.

I'll let you know how it works out.

Hello, can someone post pics from a PC to WD-XX734. Like the desktop, ie, and some game maybe. Is the picture sharp and crisp in Windows desktop like a flatscreen lcd?
And I read that it has overscan problem, that you can´t see the startpanel in Windows?

Thanks.

Hey all, Newbie here. Anyways I bought a WD-Y657 for the room next to my home theater. While I was at work they came out and installed it and my girlfriend let them in. Anyways I wanted the satellite receiver to play the same thing in both rooms so I don't have to fire up the projector everytime i want to watch something. They have a cable running from the wall to the TV and told her that it was working but they just couldn't find the channel for it.
I've been looking all over and running the channel search on it and still nothing. Any ideas on how i can get this to working?

I have a WD-65734. I just got a Tivo HD and as a temp setup I hooked it up to the front HDMI using a new monoprice cable [HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified Cable 28AWG - 10ft w/Ferrite Cores (Gold Plated Connectors)]. During the initial setup the Tivo defaults to 480p which worked fine. Then I tried switching to 1080i fixed mode on the Tivo but the TV did not recognize any signal and displayed a blue screen. If I set it to 720p fixed, that works fine. I switched to another cable of the same make/model with the same results. At this point, I thought the problem was with the cables not supporting 1080i signal rates or something like that.

So I pulled the HDMI cable from my HD-DVD player, which is connected to the HDMI on the back of the TV, and I know that works ok at 1080p when using the HD-DVD player. This is a higher quality (24 AWG) cable than the ones discussed in the first paragraph. I connected that to the Tivo and that allowed 1080i fixed to display on the TV. I then bit the bullet and moved the TV and hooked up one of the cables that didn't work originally to another rear HDMI input and then to the Tivo and now 1080i works ok.

I know the front input can take 1080 signals because I've hooked up my laptop to the front HDMI and run 1920x1080/60Hz without problems.

So any ideas on an explanation for what happened?

Go for the SONY. The WD73734 I bought had an issue with shadows and whites being blue. After attempting to calibrate with Monster ISF Calibration DVD, THX Optimizer, and all of the message board suggested service menu adjustments/user settings, I had a Mits authorized service tech come out and look at the TV. Have not even had it 10 days and it was doing this. Service tech talked to Mitsubishi Service Department in California and deemed the light engine to be bad, which is a known issue with many Mitsubishi DLP televisions. All the raving on this board about the exceptional quality of the Mits is because these folks got lucky and bought non-defective units. Wish I had their luck. Just returned the Mits and wanted a Sony KDS60A3000. No longer available in my area. Snatch one up if you can. The Sony was my number 2 choice. Mits 73734 was number 1 choice. Made the wrong choice.

Good luck to you, and thanks to all on this board that tried to help me.

Go for the SONY. The WD73734 I bought had an issue with shadows and whites being blue. After attempting to calibrate with Monster ISF Calibration DVD, THX Optimizer, and all of the message board suggested service menu adjustments/user settings, I had a Mits authorized service tech come out and look at the TV. Have not even had it 10 days and it was doing this. Service tech talked to Mitsubishi Service Department in California and deemed the light engine to be bad, which is a known issue with many Mitsubishi DLP televisions. All the raving on this board about the exceptional quality of the Mits is because these folks got lucky and bought non-defective units. Wish I had their luck. Just returned the Mits and wanted a Sony KDS60A3000. No longer available in my area. Snatch one up if you can. The Sony was my number 2 choice. Mits 73734 was number 1 choice. Made the wrong choice.

Good luck to you, and thanks to all on this board that tried to help me.

I wish we had access to a good Consumer Report style study of the various HDTVs to we could put some statistical merit to these individual experiences. It seems to me, most Happy Buyers never bother to find a forum, and most of the people that end up here are have some issue or are geeks/nerds.

SXRD is Liquid Crystal on Silicon (LCoS) and has a great deal of promise if they get the bugs out.

When I Googled SXRD Light Engine I saw complaining and found a Class Action suit against Sony SXRD TVs, for problems described as Yellow Stain and Green Blob:

http://www.sonysxrdtvclassaction.com/main/home.sfx

I thought the SXRD looked good in the store too, but didn't have anyway to check on current reliability????????? Good Luck.

We started selling the SXRD sets with the XBR2. We have yet to replace a single optical block (light engine). We do virtualy all of the service on our clients' units and have sold dozens of SXRD sets. We have seen a few of the XBR1 sets come through the shop that needed optical blocks, but not a single one of the later models. We have experienced very high reliablility from them, on a par with the LCD direct view panels.

I wish we had access to a good Consumer Report style study of the various HDTVs to we could put some statistical merit to these individual experiences. It seems to me, most Happy Buyers never bother to find a forum, and most of the people that end up here are have some issue or are geeks/nerds.

Cons Reports did review HDTVs.

I suspect that most buyers, happy or otherwise, have no idea this forum exists. And probably many TVs are returned, when the issues could have been easily resolved here or in similar forums.

All dlps will have this to some degree. It may be aggravated by some source video or the color transfer curve selected by some manufacturers.

To be more general, each type of light modulator has some unique artifacts.

I have worked at two companies that made light modulators and looked at a lot of different projectors. I bought the 65734 because it looked the best to me. Before you get mad, see if anyone else can do better.

I just wanted to touch on this a bit more because I am reading other posts on avsforums from others who are having this problem, too. I am finding this to be very touch and go. Many shows that I record don't have this flickering issue and when I say flickering, I am simply saying that in certain dark scenes, there are some areas that should be dark and in those areas a group of pixels will flash randomly, causing a flickering effect. It almost looks like bad film or something. To take this a bit further, I have noticed too that in some dark scenes that have a light source in the back, the light will flicker or pulsate.

Personally and this is coming from someone who isn't a professional at this, it may truly be a flaw in the design, but it seems to me that is more in the signal or how the show was filmed. I can go from this annoying flickering in a recorded to show to an HD-DVD and not notice it. I can turn around and put in another HD-DVD and see it.

I just bought a WD-57734 to replace my previous Mitsu. I think it was a WD-52575, but I just can't remember. I swore I'd never buy another Mitsu after dealing with there CS on the last set, but that last one died all of a sudden, and we had to have a new TV.

Anyway, so far so good but I have a few issues.

1. There is a very long delay when switching from HD to SD channels and the other way around. Mush longer than the last unit. I have the Cox Motorola DVR set to 1080i and 480P. Is there anything that can be done?

2. We did not have time for a store rep to come in and set up Netcommand. I tried it myself. Here are the things that are not working like the last unit:

i. I have both HDMI and component vid running from the DVR. When switching from one to the other, there seems to be no way to get the TV to assign audio to the component video.

ii. When switching inputs back to the HDMI/cablebox, the TV shuts my cable box power off.

Ideas?

Oh, and although I like the picture overall, I can't say it's better than the last TV. In fact, Sportscenter looked better on my old one.

Question about the fan problem...is this something that people are only noticing in warm/hot rooms, and is not prevelant in cooler areas? The reason I ask is that I bought the WD73734 in January and have NEVER heard the fan at all. It is in my basement, which is a finished basement, but is cooler than the rest of the house. So I am wondering if I am going to likely start hearing this fan problem when the weather warms up...I live in the Philly area.

I just bought a WD-57734 to replace my previous Mitsu. I think it was a WD-52575, but I just can't remember. I swore I'd never buy another Mitsu after dealing with there CS on the last set, but that last one died all of a sudden, and we had to have a new TV.

Anyway, so far so good but I have a few issues.

1. There is a very long delay when switching from HD to SD channels and the other way around. Mush longer than the last unit. I have the Cox Motorola DVR set to 1080i and 480P. Is there anything that can be done?

2. We did not have time for a store rep to come in and set up Netcommand. I tried it myself. Here are the things that are not working like the last unit:

i. I have both HDMI and component vid running from the DVR. When switching from one to the other, there seems to be no way to get the TV to assign audio to the component video.

ii. When switching inputs back to the HDMI/cablebox, the TV shuts my cable box power off.

Ideas?

Oh, and although I like the picture overall, I can't say it's better than the last TV. In fact, Sportscenter looked better on my old one.

As it pertains to point "1" there is little that you can do about this assuming you want to keep those resolutions. Keep in mind that the tv upscales everything to 1080p. I have my DVR set for 1080i and 720p. This shortens the delay a little but it still takes a few seconds. I heard that there might be a firmware update in the works to eleviate this but who knows.

I don't use Netcommand so I can't offer anything about that.

Thanks. The delay is bothing the DW so much that I called for a service tech to come out. We were in such a hurry to get this TV, I brought it home myself and did not have a service guy over at all. Hopefully, he can adjust my settings too, because it appears I sucketh at calibration. None of the numbers I've copied from here seem to work well with my unit and room.

Question about the fan problem...is this something that people are only noticing in warm/hot rooms, and is not prevelant in cooler areas? The reason I ask is that I bought the WD73734 in January and have NEVER heard the fan at all. It is in my basement, which is a finished basement, but is cooler than the rest of the house. So I am wondering if I am going to likely start hearing this fan problem when the weather warms up...I live in the Philly area.

No, it is not a Hot Room related problem. My wife keeps our house freezing and there is excellent air flow/space around my TV.

Different people have different sound level threasholds of annoyance. Also it appears their may be some manufacturing assembly leeway that could aggravate the problem.

When I first found this forum, I read all the first 50+ pages of posts before buying the TV. It seems there was some discussion back several pages, that they were calling repairmen out and they would reposition a thermocouple near the Lamp. That was supposely corrected in late 2007, but my TV was built in Feb 2008 !

Of course, repositioning the thermocouple doesn't fix any thermal problem, it just adjusts the reading lower. A lower reading would just run the fan at a slower speed to reduce noise, but would not improve cooling. That didn't sound good to me.

It is hard to know what the proper thermocouple position or reading should be. I doubt any of the field repair people really know and it seems the factory has not made a real assembly correction. Now, I doubt the factory would make any statement that might require the recall of millions of units. So, you probably just have to make a judgement.

**Remember, it is as bad to over-cool the Lamp as it is to under-cool it, but under-cooling is the more typical problem.**

When I saw the obstructed vents under the base of the TV, it seemed plausible that the blockage was unintended. That was my rationale for increasing the air flow underneath.

I have a lot of design experience in this business, but nothing is a sure bet without some factory engineering data and retest. I wouldn't hold my breath for that :)

Keep in mind that the tv upscales everything to 1080p. I have my DVR set for 1080i and 720p. This shortens the delay a little but it still takes a few seconds.

How long of a delay are we talking? Grant I'm a satellite user, so I'm used to a 1-2 second delay in changing channels. But that a constant across all my channels, SD and HD.

Maybe you should look at changing DVRs to one that will handle the upscaling for you. See if there is upgrade for you DVR or maybe a TiVo.]

My Dish DVR output 1080i no matter what channel is selected.

Store tech came by yesterday. My 7 second delay was cause by me having the DVR set to "1080i retain 480p" or something. I had this crazy idea that SD would be better if set at 480p. I had no idea that SD could be set to 1080i along with the HD channels. Bam, no delay. The only downside is, now I have to use the box's stretch, which is not as good, because if I use the TV's, it applies wide expand to the HD channels also. My WD-52725 did not do that. Anyway, although my nicer SD channels, like the golf channel and the Encore movie channels, do not look quite as nice, they still look 100 times better than on the 52725.

He also fixed my AVR output issues and the issue I had with the set turning off my box. I had to disconnect my component cables. I was not really going to use component, but I liked having both component and HDMI because on my old set, some channels looked better with component than HDMI. That does not seem to be true with this 734.

I have the HDnet test pattern scheduled to record this Saturday and will use the guidance provided by you all in this and the tweaks thread. My tech was pushing bright really hard. I still prefer Natural, and plan to leave it there unless a particular movie or sports event looks better in bright.

Thanks for all the help these posts provide. I know just enough to really mess stuff up, so searching here saves me a lot of headache!

I got a 73734 on Monday. Build date of Feb. 2008. I have no problems with any noise. It is whisper quiet. Geometry is excellent. Nearly perfect....VERY slight pincushion which is barely noticeable with a grid test pattern and completely unnoticeable during regular tv watching.
The only problem that I've run into is that I have an HTPC hooked up to it. Only 2 resolutions will work on it. 640x480 and 1900x1080. Every other resolution causes the screen to go blank (and I do mean every resolution...I tried them all). This has me stumped. I know that the HTPC works as I connected it to a Samsung 2007 model DLP. I had it at 1280x720. The Mitsubishi does not like any other resolution for some reason. I don't like the PC at 1080P because even with my great vision (20/15) I can barely see the text at the distance I sit from the TV. 720P is much better at making it more readable. FWIW my pc is using the onboard Radeon x1250 graphics.

[QUOTE=
My Dish DVR output 1080i no matter what channel is selected.[/QUOTE]

My also does the same. Not sure I understand.. Is the PQ of a regular channel in SD better because of the HDMI cable? It does'nt look like it.

My also does the same. Not sure I understand.. Is the PQ of a regular channel in SD better because of the HDMI cable? It does'nt look like it.

The quality of the upconverted SD channel depends on the converter processing the signal not the cable. My Dish 622 does a credible job of upconversion. No matter what standard is being delivered to the 622 (480i, 480p, 1080i) the output to the Mits is 1080i and generally looks good but don't view too closely if a heavily compressed 480i MPEG2 sat image is displayed.

Thanks.... I did mean the upconversion from the 722 Dvr, but I still don't like it when every channel is shown as 1080i. I had the 722 dvr connected before to my sharp 64u, with the hdmi cable, and the tv showed correctly. A 480p channel was shown as 480p Only HD channels were shown in 1080i. So, not sure why the Mitsu is showing different.

Thanks.... I did mean the upconversion from the 722 Dvr, but I still don't like it when every channel is shown as 1080i. I had the 722 dvr connected before to my sharp 64u, with the hdmi cable, and the tv showed correctly. A 480p channel was shown as 480p Only HD channels were shown in 1080i. So, not sure why the Mitsu is showing different.

The Mits only knows about the signal standard from your 722 which is always putting out 1080i. I don't know enough about the HDMI signal standard to know if the original format information is maintained after conversion to allow it to reported in the display. From what you're saying this does happen but the Mits ignores this data and only reports the upconversion data. Or maybe you had the 722 in a pass through mode when connected to the Sharp and switched it to upconversion for the Mits.

Within 24 hours:

audio is the worst I have ever heard, my 19 inch 18 year old tv in my garage sound better. Theres like an annoying high pitch chingy kind of noise...really bad!!

pictue became concaved vertically and horizontally , thin line on left side about 1 inch where picture is lighter (think film strip)

had a message it was going to shut down in 1 minute

sd is pathetic, i mean really realy bad, blurry, WHY IS THERE ONLY 1 ZOOM OPTION?

blacks are blue and forms loose their detail

light in the back is BRIGHT

hdmis pick up and detect cable box but will not work

here and there i here a click noise (only happened twice) 1 click


IS THIS A LEMON?

Lemon? Perhaps. your first step is to call in a tech. The blue color in what should be black might be a light engine problem. The "chingy" sound could be the dreaded lamp- noise, which can be fixed with some electrical tape (I'm not kidding). The shut down message is a clear sign of something not quite right.

Get it looked at, and give it another chance!

I bought a WD-73734 a few months ago and I feel like the quality is sub-par. I have the tv hooked up to an XBOX360, a Panasonic SC-PT1050, and a Time Warner HD DVR. All are connected via HDMI cable. HD on the 360 and the DVR are pretty good (a 7 on a scale of 10). SD is awful, the picture quality is grainy and the movement choppy. This is the case on cable, 360, and DVD. Has anyone else seen this or does anyone have any tips? I had a Mitsubishi service company come onsite and they said there weren't any firmware updates available and that picture was the normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
J

Does the WD-73734 support PAL or just NTSC?
I live in Europe and our Tv-system is PAL.
What kind of power 110v or 220v?
Is PAL/NTSC for all inputs, composite, s-video, component and HDMI?

It has been some time since I have posted. I have a Mit. techie coming next week to observe my Mit 73734 for what I have called in the past, 'transparent black bar syndrome". Doesn't it sound great?

Anyhow, I first reported the problem some time ago and other owners complained about this phenomenon. Some with the diamond series even complained about it but most people simply excuse it. I actually suprised the C.C. salesman as I pointed it out on their sets in their showroom. Some people just dont notice, but I can easily and it bothers me greatly.

Okay, so what is the transparent bar syndrome? It is the upper, horizontal black bar that is transparent when viewing material taped in the widescreen format. The bottom black bar is flawless - completely black. But look real close and you'll see it easily - the top black bar is see-through for about 3/4 of the way up the bar.

It is VERY annoying to me and I do not believe in paying so much money for anything less than perfect. I do not believe there is a fix. Heck, I am hypothesizing that most, if not ALL, mit. sets have this issue. Most people just look over it.

So how about it. Put a movie formatted in widescreen, and respond if you see it. I bet this may piss some people off that have never noticed it before. Now you will!!!

I will keep the forum updated as to the news from the techie - thankfully I bought the extended warranty, but the TV is still less than a year old anyways and I believe covered by Mits. themselves.

We'll see what the techie says.

Okay, so what is the transparent bar syndrome? It is the upper, horizontal black bar that is transparent when viewing material taped in the widescreen format. The bottom black bar is flawless - completely black. But look real close and you'll see it easily - the top black bar is see-through for about 3/4 of the way up the bar.


I assume you're writing about the horizontal black bars that are created when viewing 2.35:1 imaging on a 16x9 screen. What do you see in the background in the transparent region of the upper bar?

It has been some time since I have posted. I have a Mit. techie coming next week to observe my Mit 73734 for what I have called in the past, 'transparent black bar syndrome". Doesn't it sound great?

Anyhow, I first reported the problem some time ago and other owners complained about this phenomenon. Some with the diamond series even complained about it but most people simply excuse it. I actually suprised the C.C. salesman as I pointed it out on their sets in their showroom. Some people just dont notice, but I can easily and it bothers me greatly.

Okay, so what is the transparent bar syndrome? It is the upper, horizontal black bar that is transparent when viewing material taped in the widescreen format. The bottom black bar is flawless - completely black. But look real close and you'll see it easily - the top black bar is see-through for about 3/4 of the way up the bar.

It is VERY annoying to me and I do not believe in paying so much money for anything less than perfect. I do not believe there is a fix. Heck, I am hypothesizing that most, if not ALL, mit. sets have this issue. Most people just look over it.

So how about it. Put a movie formatted in widescreen, and respond if you see it. I bet this may piss some people off that have never noticed it before. Now you will!!!

I will keep the forum updated as to the news from the techie - thankfully I bought the extended warranty, but the TV is still less than a year old anyways and I believe covered by Mits. themselves.

We'll see what the techie says.
You should call mits...I think they will tell you it is normal operation.

Does the WD-73734 support PAL or just NTSC?
I live in Europe and our Tv-system is PAL.
What kind of power 110v or 220v?
Is PAL/NTSC for all inputs, composite, s-video, component and HDMI?
NTSC/ATSC/QAM only. No Pal.
120VAC.

Howdy!

I'm wondering just what people see in the "transparent black bar." There should be no picture at all in that area, signal-wise. Are you seeing a reflection of part of the visible picture? A part of the picture that would have been cropped in editing? something else?

I assume you're writing about the horizontal black bars that are created when viewing 2.35:1 imaging on a 16x9 screen. What do you see in the background in the transparent region of the upper bar?

I can see through the black bar, into the picture from the movie. The effects are very noticeable when the background of the movie is white or blue, like a scene with water or sky.

It may not bother most people, and I understand that. But it really does bother me.

You should call mits...I think they will tell you it is normal operation.

Probably. And if it is, I dont want the TV. It seriously distracts from the quality of the picture for widescreen formatted movies.

Howdy!

I'm wondering just what people see in the "transparent black bar." There should be no picture at all in that area, signal-wise. Are you seeing a reflection of part of the visible picture? A part of the picture that would have been cropped in editing? something else?

I am seeing a continuation of the picture itself - just with much, much less detail as it is more 'shadowy'.

The bottom bar is a deep black without any discrepancy. Its the top bar, about from the beginning of it up to about 3/4 of an inch to an inch high.

I am seeing a continuation of the picture itself - just with much, much less detail as it is more 'shadowy'. The bottom bar is a deep black without any discrepancy. Its the top bar, about from the beginning of it up to about 3/4 of an inch to an inch high.

Same here, although I wouldn't have noticed it if you guys hadn't pointed it out. Now it'll probably start to bother me. Sigh.

There isn't any thing to see behind the black bars because there isn't any signal "behind" them. My understanding, and I could be wrong and often are, is that the black bars are just the top and bottom of the frame/ratio the movie/show was shot in like 1.78, 2.35 etc?

So there shouldn't be any part of the picture covered by the black bar. Are you sure it's not a reflection of light from the scene being played?

There isn't any thing to see behind the black bars because there isn't any signal "behind" them. My understanding, and I could be wrong and often are, is that the black bars are just the top and bottom of the frame/ratio the movie/show was shot in like 1.78, 2.35 etc?

So there shouldn't be any part of the picture covered by the black bar. Are you sure it's not a reflection of light from the scene being played?

I agree with you, there shouldn't be any picture information in the black bar. It might be easier to figure out what's happening with a photo of the condition. In the CRT days of TV, I could have explained this effect as being a retrace/lack of vertical blanking problem. However, in this digital age, it's a mystery.

Right. There is no image in the black bar, so it can't be a continuation of the scene. On my set if there is something very bright in a dark field, I can see a bit of lens flare or whatever in the black bar. It is only barely noticeable, and I'm sure there is no way to correct it at any price.

Right. There is no image in the black bar, so it can't be a continuation of the scene. On my set if there is something very bright in a dark field, I can see a bit of lens flare or whatever in the black bar. It is only barely noticeable, and I'm sure there is no way to correct it at any price.

If it is lens flare, then better optics. This does raise a point - perhaps those having this problem also are operating the set at a higher than normal picture brightness. And the reason it's seen at the top is just due to higher picture levels at the top of the image resulting from skylight, etc.

Same here, although I wouldn't have noticed it if you guys hadn't pointed it out. Now it'll probably start to bother me. Sigh.

Sorry, I really am. But it is probably better to know about it and inform others before they purchase. I still dont think many people even notice it, but I am so suspicious of HDTV sets as I had a Samsung that developed the left-shadow plague. From that point on I pay close attention to the details.

And we should when considering the amount of money we are paying for a T.V.. These are not items that we necessarily need per say, but leisure items. If I am going to pay for something I dont necessarily need, but am buying it to enjoy it, then it better work properly.

If the Mit techie says Mit. will give me my money back, I may just do it. I've been eyeing the 65" Sharp LCD's. Then I guess I get to worry about the dreaded banding...and the stories will go on.

There isn't any thing to see behind the black bars because there isn't any signal "behind" them. My understanding, and I could be wrong and often are, is that the black bars are just the top and bottom of the frame/ratio the movie/show was shot in like 1.78, 2.35 etc?

So there shouldn't be any part of the picture covered by the black bar. Are you sure it's not a reflection of light from the scene being played?

You know, I have thought about this - it could be haloing from the halo effect. Anytime my screen is black, then there is some continuation of the lighter colors on the darker colors.

I am wondering if this is causing my black bar to reflect light from the picture being broadcast.

I agree with you, there shouldn't be any picture information in the black bar. It might be easier to figure out what's happening with a photo of the condition. In the CRT days of TV, I could have explained this effect as being a retrace/lack of vertical blanking problem. However, in this digital age, it's a mystery.

I dont think we are in any need of a photo. If you own the mit 73734, then get a formatted wide-screen dvd, fire it up, and see for yourself.

Right. There is no image in the black bar, so it can't be a continuation of the scene. On my set if there is something very bright in a dark field, I can see a bit of lens flare or whatever in the black bar. It is only barely noticeable, and I'm sure there is no way to correct it at any price.

That's what I think also - no way to correct. It is an engineering flaw at some level.

If it is lens flare, then better optics. This does raise a point - perhaps those having this problem also are operating the set at a higher than normal picture brightness. And the reason it's seen at the top is just due to higher picture levels at the top of the image resulting from skylight, etc.

Possibly. I also noticted that on blu-ray from my PS3, the effect is even worse I think.

I think this may be left-over effects from halo effect.

Right. There is no image in the black bar, so it can't be a continuation of the scene. On my set if there is something very bright in a dark field, I can see a bit of lens flare or whatever in the black bar. It is only barely noticeable, and I'm sure there is no way to correct it at any price.

Very possible.

IMAGE ON TOP BAR

I could see something faint on a top black bar, but I don't think it would bother me.

I removed one of the round covers (1 screw) at the side (back) of the set and looked inside while it is operating. There seemed to be plenty of stray light bouncing around.

There is ample opportunity for re-reflection from the back of the screen off of the projection fold mirror. The mirror is tilted at ~30 degrees. When I did a quick ray trace sketch, it seems that the re-reflections would be most everywhere. I didn't see why it would be most pronounced at the top.

I would think this would most likely just look like reduced contrast. (Which reminds me, the contrast numbers all manufacturers throw around seem to be BS.) This doesn't worry me too much.


POOR SOUND

I agree with the many that complain about poor sound, but I'm using aux speaker system.

While looking inside, I noticed the speakers were visible and speaker backsides resonant into the video projection area. Audio reflections off of the plastic might account for the tinny sound.

It would be simple to put some black soft foam over the tops of the speakers, through the access holes on the sides. If it worked, you'd probably want to make it permanent with duct tape or something so it wouldn't come loose when the tv was tilted.

I'm not bothering to do this.

IMAGE ON TOP BAR

I could see something faint on a top black bar, but I don't think it would bother me.


Hate to break the news but I think it gets worse with 'break-in' time. I do believe the effects of this transparent bar have actually increased in the 6 months of heavy viewing.

Hello there...

I was reading through the Official Mits WD-XX734 Owner's thread and saw your post about owning this TV.

I am now in the exact same spot you were. I currently own the WD-52631. I have been through 2 light engines, fan, fan sensor and 2 motherboards. They are finally replacing the set with the WD-57734. I was curious how you like the TV? I like to play Playstation 3 and watch Blu-Ray movies mostly. I was curious how the game mode on the set works?


Thanks for your time!
Greg

Hate to break the news but I think it gets worse with 'break-in' time. I do believe the effects of this transparent bar have actually increased in the 6 months of heavy viewing.
that wouldnt make logical sense. what would cause reflections to increase over time?

that wouldnt make logical sense. what would cause reflections to increase over time?

Dirt? Lens film?

Dirt? Lens film?

Hmmm, not sure, but I doubt it. I think this is something within the manufacturing process from Mits..

I still think this phenomenon is caused by the halo effect. I think what we are seeing in the top bar is connected to halo because it is VERY apparent with whites and blues in the background. The best way to see it is to use DVR and record a scene with sky background that includes clouds and sky - then pause it.

Halo effect is infamous for white background shadow on a black screen - such as with white letters on black background.

I also think I remember reading somewhere that halo effect does increase over time with sets, especially throughout the break in period.

that wouldnt make logical sense. what would cause reflections to increase over time?

I agree. I know you can see a little dust on the lense when looking through those access holes on the side, but I would not expect that to be a problem.

Dirt and lense film hasn't been a problem for DLP, because (at least in the past) the optics were designed to not image where the dust is on lens surfaces. That was not the case with LCD equipment. The LCD front projector that I used until recently needed a cleaning every year. I had to remove two circuit boards and about 20 cable connectors to do it.

BTW, I have seen people clean very expensive soft anti-reflective coatings off, thinking it was a "Lense Film" that had built up.

I would be quite skeptical about changes over time too.

Hate to break the news but I think it gets worse with 'break-in' time. I do believe the effects of this transparent bar have actually increased in the 6 months of heavy viewing.


You said you could see some image in that area. All I see is a very softly illuminated area.

Where on the display screen is that image coming from? Is it reversed side-side or up-down. You could probably determine that best with a still image.

After that you could probably tape a 3x5 card to a stick, insert it in the side access holes and move it around. This way you could determine if the image was coming directly from the projection lense or re-reflected off of the fold mirror.

Of course, be careful not to wreck it. :)

You said you could see some image in that area. All I see is a very softly illuminated area.

Where on the display screen is that image coming from? Is it reversed side-side or up-down. You could probably determine that best with a still image.

After that you could probably tape a 3x5 card to a stick, insert it in the side access holes and move it around. This way you could determine if the image was coming directly from the projection lense or re-reflected off of the fold mirror.

Of course, be careful not to wreck it. :)

I'll let the Mit. technician do that - he's coming this tuesday.

When I pause the screen via DVR, I can see a continuation of the screen below 'reflected' upon the black bar. If someone's head is shown on the screen, I can see the continuation of their head. This especially holds true of light scenes.

I'll let the Mit. technician do that - he's coming this tuesday.

When I pause the screen via DVR, I can see a continuation of the screen below 'reflected' upon the black bar. If someone's head is shown on the screen, I can see the continuation of their head. This especially holds true of light scenes.

Is it actually a continuation or is it a reflected (upside down) image?

I now see this... never noticed it until last night, of course, after reading the post on it!

Looks like a reflection from within the set.

Is it actually a continuation or is it a reflected (upside down) image?

No, it is right side up - like the black bar simply doesn't have the black to fill it.

Do you have a XX734? If you do, turn it on and put a widescreen formatted DVD in - you'll see it yourself.

I now see this... never noticed it until last night, of course, after reading the post on it!

Looks like a reflection from within the set.

Sorry. Its my fault!!

Now, the question is, can you live with it? I think most people probably can, but not me.

Especially, when there are other better sets out there.

I was going to order the 65734 although concerned about the number of similar problems owners have had. Then I noticed on Amazon that a new model, WD-65736 will be released on May 1st. Is anyone familiar with what the difference is between the two models, and whether it would be to my benefit to wait until the new model is available?

This is my first post for AVS... Please bare with me... I have finally been given the OK from the spouse on upgrading my current Hitachi CRT RPTV 65" 65S500 model. I was debating between the new HLT 61" LED series 7 dlp's or the Mitsu 73734... Aside from the internal debate between the longer life of the LED's and Bulb issue of the Mitsu and all other standard DLP's i had a question more in line with the size of the 73 Mitsu 734 model. I also know they make a nice 65inch model which may be what i have to go if the 73 is to big but viewing the 65 hitachi for 4 years makes me want to stay in that general size range... I currently rent and i'm limited to a 10ft veiwing distance currently but i will be moving in a year to another HOME where i will not be constrained by the distance issues I currently have. I just don't know if the 73" will be to much for the size of the room that i would have to put up with for that year time frame... I'm not ready to wait another year to just get an upgraded TV but i know i won't be purchasing a new one in a year if i'm purchasing one in a months time. Is there significant PQ issues that close... i have found some deals on the mitsu 73 that are hard to pass up, and i have also seen the pictures on this thread on the first page that look just wonderful but they might not be so wonderfull at 10 feet. Any thoughts?

Is there significant PQ issues that close... i have found some deals on the mitsu 73 that are hard to pass up, and i have also seen the pictures on this thread on the first page that look just wonderful but they might not be so wonderfull at 10 feet. Any thoughts?

I've seen charts indicating you have to be viewing a 73" screen from 9' to get the full benefit of a 1080P image. However, artifacts in a SD image might be objectionable at that distance.

I mainly would be using it for movies from a ps3 source or gaming... That was my biggest worry that the distance of 9' would be a little close and more imperfections would be brought to the fore front... but again it will be for a years time then space restraints will be a thing of the past. I don't watch must SD broadcasts right now... it will all be in HD if i am watching anything at all. So it sounds like i should be fine but SD might be a little issue.... Thank you for your response.

I just got a disturbing call from my AV Pro. He was talking to his source at our area's largest electronics distributor who told him that they were no longer offering extended warranties on any Mitsubishi DLPs due to an alarming increase in claims.

I went back to page 46 here (where it was when I bought) and have read every post since. I also see an increasing number of posts with problems.

I have the 73734 and have had zero problems in the past 3 months and did not purchase the extended warranty from CC. Was this a mistake? Should I try to purchase one now? Any idea's where I can?

tarheels, I have the 73734 and sit 11' away. I'm reconfiguring the room to "buy" another foot or so.

ALTAJoe regarding you moving your's back even farther are you saying it's just too large sitting at that distance or are you noticing specific issues with PQ? i found the chart that Barrysb was mentioning too that stated i would need to be 9ft from the 73 inch screen to be able to see and notice the tv was in 1080p. the 61inch tv's you would need to be at like 7.5' to notice 1080p. I just don't want to burn my eyes out from sitting to close but it sounds like to take full advantage of 1080p you have to sit a little closer than you would expect with a tv screen of that size....

...i had a question more in line with the size of the 73 Mitsu 734 model. I also know they make a nice 65inch model which may be what i have to go if the 73 is to big but viewing the 65 hitachi for 4 years makes me want to stay in that general size range... I currently rent and i'm limited to a 10ft veiwing distance currently but i will be moving in a year to another HOME where i will not be constrained by the distance issues I currently have. I just don't know if the 73" will be to much for the size of the room that i would have to put up with for that year time frame... I'm not ready to wait another year to just get an upgraded TV but i know i won't be purchasing a new one in a year if i'm purchasing one in a months time. Is there significant PQ issues that close... i have found some deals on the mitsu 73 that are hard to pass up, and i have also seen the pictures on this thread on the first page that look just wonderful but they might not be so wonderfull at 10 feet. Any thoughts?

Viewing distance, I believe, is one of the most ignored factors needed to be considered in purchasing a HDTV. You can have a great TV but if the viewing distance is off, it can ruin a viewing experience.

The trick, is that everyone is different as everyone's eyesight is variable, even if its ever so slightly. The bottom line is preference, but I have to say, I regret buying the 73734. I have about 10' to 11' feet viewing distance. But my kitchen is open behind the couch I sit on to watch TV. When I sit at my kitchen table (about 15' to 20' feet away depending upon which chair I'm in), my 73734 looks almost twice as good to me, especially when viewing 720p broadcasts such as with ESPN and FOX. When I sit on the couch in the great room, I see lots of what I call pixelation or noise. It really affects my viewing quality. I should have went with the 65".

I will say this though, when viewing blu ray material, 10' is plenty of distance as the resolution does this distance justice.

Be careful and just remember, bigger is always better when it comes to TV size and allowable or possible viewing distance.

tarheel / Daniel, Yes, I was saying that distance is better (for me). My desk is behind the sofa and I find myself sitting in my desk chair more than the sofa.

I don't have Blu ray, so I can't speak to that, but it seems that SD / 720 and 1080i all look better at distance.

I think that 10' should be OK, but I sure wouldn't risk it closer than that.

Anyone have a Harmony Remote 880 with a 7734? For some reason when I try to reconfigure our remote, I only have 1 HDMI port when the TV has 4. Logitech forums don't seem to be able to offer much help.

I bought the Harmony 880 a week or so ago, but haven't tried to set it up yet. I'll get back to you when I do.

I just got a disturbing call from my AV Pro. He was talking to his source at our area's largest electronics distributor who told him that they were no longer offering extended warranties on any Mitsubishi DLPs due to an alarming increase in claims.

I went back to page 46 here (where it was when I bought) and have read every post since. I also see an increasing number of posts with problems.

I have the 73734 and have had zero problems in the past 3 months and did not purchase the extended warranty from CC. Was this a mistake? Should I try to purchase one now? Any idea's where I can?


I won't go so far as to say it's a mistake, but I will tell you in short, that we have had nothing but problems with our 52628 and 53774. Our 52628 had a problem with flickering and Mits replaced this 2 year old unit suddenly, without questions or issues about 6 months ago. The 537734 is nice, but the black levels aren't great and we experience that familiar whining fan noise. Fortunately, the whining lasts about 30 seconds and then it's gone.


I said this a couple weeks ago before all the buzz about these Mits DLPs and I will say it again- I am not overly impressed with the quality of these units. I have experienced Sony and Sharp units through friends and they seem a lot better in quality. And I will say this firmly- I will not buy another Mits TV again, ever. For now, I am happy with our TV for the most part, but when after our extended warranty expires and when we have to fork out $300 for a new lamp, this TV is shipping out.


And of course, after I post this I notice what looks like a letterbox burn-in in the center of my screen. Awesome! Definitely won't be buy another Mits TV.

... Fortunately, the whining lasts about 30 seconds and then it's gone.

... when we have to fork out $300 for a new lamp, this TV is shipping out.

And of course, after I post this I notice what looks like a letterbox burn-in in the center of my screen. Awesome! Definitely won't be buy another Mits TV.

Captain,

The whine for the first several seconds is the Lamp ignition and start-up of the halogen cycle in the Arc Lamp, not the fan. The Lamp is first ignited with 5,000 to 20,000 volt pulses that must melt a tiny bit of the tungsten/mercury at the electrode tips. This high voltage arcs make that sound. This is normal.

Lamps and Lamp Power Supplies are still way too expensive and fail too much because companies laid-off employees (like me) that were reducing their cost and improving quality. There has been no improvement her in the last several years.

Burn-in of letterbox on a DLP (DMD) light modulator would be extraordinary. It might indicate contamination inside of the DMD that is attaching to the front window of the DMD or the mirrors are overheating and deforming. Either of these problems would probably justify a massive recall. I am skeptical about this.

No, it is right side up - like the black bar simply doesn't have the black to fill it.

Do you have a XX734? If you do, turn it on and put a widescreen formatted DVD in - you'll see it yourself.

Daniel,

This (right side up) seems impossible. Black is not painted on the screen. Black is the absence of white/color being painted on the screen. You are saying there is color where there is no signal or intentional image. That means the light is either being reflected there or being mis-directed there from a lense (like from the projection lense that is pointed upward on this TV).

I have seen plenty of stray light inside. Also, years ago, the projection lens used to be pointed more to the rear, rather than straight up. That configuration would reduce the posibility of light going directly to the display screen from the lense.

When I was doing my crude ray-tracing test, I was using a Red Laser Pocket Pointer. It appeared to me the screen had some directivity. That is, it tends to accept light better that is coming 90 degees to the screen than an off angle. This directivity would be a good feature and block most stray light from inside the cabinet. I would suspect blue light (shorter wavelenght) would not have as good of directivity as the red light (from laser) that I was using. The haze I see seems blue. This would seem more likely. Much could be done to improve this for anyone willing to take the TV apart and block the stray light path from the lense to the screen and cover the black plastic with better light absorbing black material (flat black paint or black felt) on the inside.

Captain,

The whine for the first several seconds is the Lamp ignition and start-up of the halogen cycle in the Arc Lamp, not the fan. The Lamp is first ignited with 5,000 to 20,000 volt pulses that must melt a tiny bit of the tungsten/mercury at the electrode tips. This high voltage arcs make that sound. This is normal.

Lamps and Lamp Power Supplies are still way too expensive and fail too much because companies laid-off employees (like me) that were reducing their cost and improving quality. There has been no improvement her in the last several years.

Burn-in of letterbox on a DLP (DMD) light modulator would be extraordinary. It might indicate contamination inside of the DMD that is attaching to the front window of the DMD or the mirrors are overheating and deforming. Either of these problems would probably justify a massive recall. I am skeptical about this.


You sound like you know what you're talking about with the DLP TVs. I have a Mitsubishi 65734 that I've had for about three months. There is a definite high pitched noise that sometimes drives me nuts. No one else seems to notice it and sometimes it's worse than others. I had a repair guy come out and tape the ballasts. But that didn't make any difference. I don't know if the noise is the lamp or the fan or what. As I said, it's intermittent. It's there more than not. But, it's not always there. It's definitely not just on start up.

I wonder what I should do. Do DLP TVs just make a noise? I've got an LCD TV and it's silent. Is this just the sound of the lamp or the fan? How do I find out if it's "'normal"? I love the TV except for the noise. I thought I'd get used to it (I'm very sensitive to noises). But, so far, it still bothers me occasionally.

Thanks,
Brian

artifacthater:

Daniel,

This (right side up) seems impossible. Black is not painted on the screen. Black is the absence of white/color being painted on the screen. You are saying there is color where there is no signal or intentional image. That means the light is either being reflected there or being mis-directed there from a lense (like from the projection lense that is pointed upward on this TV).

No I am not saying there is "color" involved "where there is no signal or intentional image". The continuation of the picture through the top black bar is not in color, it is 'continued' in black and white.

It sort of reminds me of the shadowing problem on the early samsungs. I had one that developed a vertical shadow on the left side of the screen about 3 inches wide. It was caused by a problem with mirrors in the light tunnel I think. Oddly enough, I am wondering if this transparent top black bar problem with the Mits. parallels the Sammy shadowing problem at some level.

I have seen plenty of stray light inside. Also, years ago, the projection lens used to be pointed more to the rear, rather than straight up. That configuration would reduce the posibility of light going directly to the display screen from the lense.

This is beyond my level of understanding. I have never peered into the insides of a set. But what you are saying seems logical.

When I was doing my crude ray-tracing test, I was using a Red Laser Pocket Pointer. It appeared to me the screen had some directivity. That is, it tends to accept light better that is coming 90 degees to the screen than an off angle. This directivity would be a good feature and block most stray light from inside the cabinet. I would suspect blue light (shorter wavelenght) would not have as good of directivity as the red light (from laser) that I was using. The haze I see seems blue. This would seem more likely. Much could be done to improve this for anyone willing to take the TV apart and block the stray light path from the lense to the screen and cover the black plastic with better light absorbing black material (flat black paint or black felt) on the inside.

I dont really understand what you are getting at here and how it is applicable.

Well, my 8 month old WD-Y657 (Circuit City model) just died this week. I was watching TV when a very brief, about half second, loud noise came from my HT system, then the TV immediately shut down. After that, when I start up the TV, all I get is a series repeated strange grindy sounds and fan noise from the back, no lamp, but I do get audio.

My son says the strange grindy sound sounds like that puppet in the Saw movie series. It makes that noise for about 10 seconds at startup, then I hear the fan whine up and down like a jet engine (much louder than I've ever heard the fan), then the strange noise again, then the fan noise again, then the strange sound again. It does this whether or not I leave the TV on or turn it off as soon as I turn it on.

When on, I get a solid green power light, then once it goes through the above sequence and I turn it off, the lamp light comes on red for a few hours, then later goes off. The TV has operated flawlessly and quietly up until the blowout.

That doesn't sound like a simple lamp burnout problem, does it?

Well, my 8 month old WD-Y657 (Circuit City model) just died this week. I was watching TV when a very brief, about half second, loud noise came from my HT system, then the TV immediately shut down. After that, when I start up the TV, all I get is a series repeated strange grindy sounds and fan noise from the back, no lamp, but I do get audio.

My son says the strange grindy sound sounds like that puppet in the Saw movie series. It makes that noise for about 10 seconds at startup, then I hear the fan whine up and down like a jet engine (much louder than I've ever heard the fan), then the strange noise again, then the fan noise again, then the strange sound again. It does this whether or not I leave the TV on or turn it off as soon as I turn it on.

When on, I get a solid green power light, then once it goes through the above sequence and I turn it off, the lamp light comes on red for a few hours, then later goes off. The TV has operated flawlessly and quietly up until the blowout.

That doesn't sound like a simple lamp burnout problem, does it?

Call Circuit City - this t.v. will either be repaired or you'll get a new one - at ono charge. 8 months still covers you even under the manufacturer's warranty not even including any extended warranty. Did you buy an extended warranty? If not call Mitsubishi. At least get it on record that this has occurred. Write down every name of every person you talk to including date and time.

I wish you luck! Mitsubishi was terrible dealing with mine and told me one lie after another but Circuit City made everything right after a few months of Mitsubishi lies

I wish you luck! Mitsubishi was terrible dealing with mine and told me one lie after another but Circuit City made everything right after a few months of Mitsubishi lies

Been there done that. I had a hard time finding anybody to even speak English for Mitsubishi.

C.C. has been great to deal with - they replaced a Sammy with a shadowing issue and have offered to take my Mits. back and give me in store credit.

I wish you luck! Mitsubishi was terrible dealing with mine and told me one lie after another but Circuit City made everything right after a few months of Mitsubishi lies

Yikes, whaddid you do for a TV all that time?!

Yikes, whaddid you do for a TV all that time?!

Do you really believe the folks who post here have only ONE TV? :eek:

Do you really believe the folks who post here have only ONE TV? :eek:

Yes, the only other one is a 15" analog

Do you really believe the folks who post here have only ONE TV? :eek:

I have only one TV. Sigh...

I do however have TWO rolls of toilet paper left.

Well, my 8 month old WD-Y657 (Circuit City model) just died this week. I was watching TV when a very brief, about half second, loud noise came from my HT system, then the TV immediately shut down. After that, when I start up the TV, all I get is a series repeated strange grindy sounds and fan noise from the back, no lamp, but I do get audio.

My son says the strange grindy sound sounds like that puppet in the Saw movie series. It makes that noise for about 10 seconds at startup, then I hear the fan whine up and down like a jet engine (much louder than I've ever heard the fan), then the strange noise again, then the fan noise again, then the strange sound again. It does this whether or not I leave the TV on or turn it off as soon as I turn it on.

When on, I get a solid green power light, then once it goes through the above sequence and I turn it off, the lamp light comes on red for a few hours, then later goes off. The TV has operated flawlessly and quietly up until the blowout.

That doesn't sound like a simple lamp burnout problem, does it?
you can order a new lamp under warranty at Mits website. clean and simple.

you can order a new lamp under warranty at Mits website. clean and simple.


Hey! I found a Mits authorized service center just 3 miles down the tracks from me, so I pumped the handcar down there and described my problem. The tech said that grindy noise at startup was the TV trying to kick in the burned out lamp, he also said the loud noise I heard before it went out was typical. He said he had the lamp already on order and he should be able to install it Wednesday. He said that these newer 180 watt lamps have a good life track record, better than the previous Mits lamps, and that my outage was not typical (but how would they know if their pretty new?). I haven't checked the hour usage lately, but I'd guess it's in the 1500 to 1800 hour area. I'll find out after the replacement.

Saves me from worrying if the TV has any other issues. Also keeps me from having to install the lamp myself, and then having to pack up the failed lamp and shipping it back to Mits (Mits warranty lamp replacement policy).

The strange grindy noises would indicate much more than a dead lamp. You may have a destroyed color wheel. Call a tech.

Re the not-so-black bars: just get some black fabric and make a set of mini-curtains to hide the top and bottom bars. Done. No matter what TV, movie projector, or calligraphic laser projection system you get at whatever cost, there will be optical issues. I take care of some mighty expensive telescopes, and we always whine about their optics, too.

He said that these newer 180 watt lamps have a good life track record, better than the previous Mits lamps, and that my outage was not typical (but how would they know if their pretty new?). I haven't checked the hour usage lately, but I'd guess it's in the 1500 to 1800 hour area. I'll find out after the replacement.
if you havnt already, make sure to put the lamp setting to standard instead of bright (once you fix it), that should help the lamp life last longer.

Re the not-so-black bars: just get some black fabric and make a set of mini-curtains to hide the top and bottom bars. Done. No matter what TV, movie projector, or calligraphic laser projection system you get at whatever cost, there will be optical issues. I take care of some mighty expensive telescopes, and we always whine about their optics, too.

I dont watch the Pistons play Boston on a telescope, nor do I watch wide-screen formatted movies on a telescope.

I watch them on my very expensive 73" television! I expect perfection or I wouldn't have paid so much money.

if you havnt already, make sure to put the lamp setting to standard instead of bright (once you fix it), that should help the lamp life last longer.

There was somebody on this forum that either knew what he was talking about or at least sounded like it that said this actually is a misconception.

There are two lamp intensity selections on the 2008 models. Contrast, brightness, and other picture controls that affect video changes have no effect on lamp life.

There was somebody on this forum that either knew what he was talking about or at least sounded like it that said this actually is a misconception.
standard mode uses a lower wattage. Therefore has longer life.
It is pretty cut and dry.

Captain,

The whine for the first several seconds is the Lamp ignition and start-up of the halogen cycle in the Arc Lamp, not the fan. The Lamp is first ignited with 5,000 to 20,000 volt pulses that must melt a tiny bit of the tungsten/mercury at the electrode tips. This high voltage arcs make that sound. This is normal.

Lamps and Lamp Power Supplies are still way too expensive and fail too much because companies laid-off employees (like me) that were reducing their cost and improving quality. There has been no improvement her in the last several years.

Burn-in of letterbox on a DLP (DMD) light modulator would be extraordinary. It might indicate contamination inside of the DMD that is attaching to the front window of the DMD or the mirrors are overheating and deforming. Either of these problems would probably justify a massive recall. I am skeptical about this.

Well, I certainly haven't left my TV on for long enough to burn in. For the retail price of $1500, yeah, this TV is decent, but there are way too many other issues with it. Definitely enough to steer me away from Mitsubishi the next time I go looking for a new TV. I would be fine with my TV if I didn't constantly see flickering and a glowing effect in dark scenes which is the same issue that other 57734 owners are reporting in another thread.

standard mode uses a lower wattage. Therefore has longer life.
It is pretty cut and dry.

Yes, but they said the difference was so small that it barely mattered. Again, I am not sure where they were getting their information from.

Hey! I found a Mits authorized service center just 3 miles down the tracks from me, so I pumped the handcar down there and described my problem. The tech said that grindy noise at startup was the TV trying to kick in the burned out lamp, he also said the loud noise I heard before it went out was typical. He said he had the lamp already on order and he should be able to install it Wednesday. He said that these newer 180 watt lamps have a good life track record, better than the previous Mits lamps, and that my outage was not typical (but how would they know if their pretty new?). I haven't checked the hour usage lately, but I'd guess it's in the 1500 to 1800 hour area. I'll find out after the replacement.

Saves me from worrying if the TV has any other issues. Also keeps me from having to install the lamp myself, and then having to pack up the failed lamp and shipping it back to Mits (Mits warranty lamp replacement policy).

Had my WD-Y657's lamp replaced today under the initial one year warranty (8 months). It had 1973 hours on it. The set is back to its normal beautiful, quiet state. The tech did say that having the lamp set to "standard" rather than "bright" would extend its life. Mine was set to "bright", it's now on "standard". :D

You sound like you know what you're talking about with the DLP TVs. I have a Mitsubishi 65734 that I've had for about three months. There is a definite high pitched noise that sometimes drives me nuts. No one else seems to notice it and sometimes it's worse than others. I had a repair guy come out and tape the ballasts. But that didn't make any difference. I don't know if the noise is the lamp or the fan or what. As I said, it's intermittent. It's there more than not. But, it's not always there. It's definitely not just on start up.

I wonder what I should do. Do DLP TVs just make a noise? I've got an LCD TV and it's silent. Is this just the sound of the lamp or the fan? How do I find out if it's "'normal"? I love the TV except for the noise. I thought I'd get used to it (I'm very sensitive to noises). But, so far, it still bothers me occasionally.

Thanks,
Brian


It may be the fan noise problem. I suggest you go back to my posts on page 55 and check out an easy fix. Some other methods, refinements and improvements are proposed on later pages by various people.

Well, I certainly haven't left my TV on for long enough to burn in. For the retail price of $1500, yeah, this TV is decent, but there are way too many other issues with it. Definitely enough to steer me away from Mitsubishi the next time I go looking for a new TV. I would be fine with my TV if I didn't constantly see flickering and a glowing effect in dark scenes which is the same issue that other 57734 owners are reporting in another thread.

I wish I knew exactly what artifacts you are describing.

My biggest problem seems to be getting high quality source video that has not been converted to analog and back to digital.

When I watch local or national news programs using OTA reception, the picture is perfect/beautiful. Live broadcasts seem to assure no morons have screwed up the video in recording or reconstruction. :)

I had heard my cable company converted all signals to analog and then re-digitized them at the set-top-box. That is lunacy.

Yes, but they said the difference was so small that it barely mattered. Again, I am not sure where they were getting their information from.
If you think about this physics of the lamp it is clear that a lower wattage setting will increase life.
A lamp that is the same exact size running at 180W would heat up much faster and higher than the same bulb running at 150W.
That is a 20% improvement. Small....depends on your point of view I suppose.

I wish I knew exactly what artifacts you are describing.

My biggest problem seems to be getting high quality source video that has not been converted to analog and back to digital.

When I watch local or national news programs using OTA reception, the picture is perfect/beautiful. Live broadcasts seem to assure no morons have screwed up the video in recording or reconstruction. :)

I had heard my cable company converted all signals to analog and then re-digitized them at the set-top-box. That is lunacy.


It's hard to explain. Really when watching a TV show or a movie and during a dark scene and more prevelant with a light source in the background such as a street light or lamp, the light source seems to glow or pulsate. The other issue in these darker scenes, dark grey or brown looking pixels will flash and almost look like dirty spots. I see this often, even on HD-DVD movies. I never saw this on our 52638.

Anyone know if there's a firmware out that can possibly enable 1080p over component for the WD-Y577 series? I've done quite a bit of searching but have come up empty-handed.

Anyone know if there's a firmware out that can possibly enable 1080p over component for the WD-Y577 series? I've done quite a bit of searching but have come up empty-handed.
component input accepts up to 1080i. For 1080p use the HDMI input.

I can't. I have a non-HDMI XBox 360. It outputs 1080p over component but my TV will only go as high as 1080i over the component connectors.

If you think about this physics of the lamp it is clear that a lower wattage setting will increase life.
A lamp that is the same exact size running at 180W would heat up much faster and higher than the same bulb running at 150W.
That is a 20% improvement. Small....depends on your point of view I suppose.

Generally, your statements are correct. Most often dropping the power somewhat or improving cooling helps the Lamp. I am not sure when we select different brightness options if:
- the DMD duty cycle is reducing the brightness, or
- the Lamp power is being reduced.

It is possible to Over-Cool the Lamp though too. I doubt anyone will have this problem unless then intentionally do something like adding a extra fan.

I understand that the deep field control is actually reducing a mechanical aperture in front of the Lamp. That would improve the picture by reducing stray light to the DMD, but may reflect more light back into the Lamp and increase heating.

Somewhere I saw that this Lamp has a VIP nomenclature, that means it's Osram (Sylvania in USA) brand. Here is a link to popular Osram video lamps:

http://www.beamerlampen.biz/OSRAM_P-VIP_VIP-R_Ersatzlampen.pdf

If anyone has read the Osram part number on the Lamp, please post it.

Somewhere I saw that this Lamp has a VIP nomenclature, that means it's Osram (Sylvania in USA) brand. Here is a link to popular Osram video lamps:

http://www.beamerlampen.biz/OSRAM_P-VIP_VIP-R_Ersatzlampen.pdf

If anyone has read the Osram part number on the Lamp, please post it.

It's the Osram P-VIP 150-180/1.0 E22h lamp which isn't listed in the the pdf you linked.

So I gather if you set the lamp to standard, you are running it at 150 watts?

It's the Osram P-VIP 150-180/1.0 E22h lamp which isn't listed in the the pdf you linked.

So I gather if you set the lamp to standard, you are running it at 150 watts?

Thanks for the Part number. It's interesting that they show it as a 150-180 Watt device. I guess that means that they ARE varying Lamp power for the major modes of TV brightness.

It appears that the WD-65734 and WD-Y657 use slightly different naming terms for the On-Screen-Display adjustments. For "Picture Mode", my options are Natural, Bright or Brilliant. I am using Natural, as it has the lowest brightness, so yes it is probably 150 Watts. Even at that setting, I find White screens on commercials to be blinding in a dark room at night.

After selecting Natural, on the WD-65734, then the Contrast and Brightness setting have the word "Natural" preceeding them.

For example the display words are:

Picture Mode . . . Natural
<Press Video>
Natural Contrast . |------------^-----| 3?
<Press Video>
Natural Brightness |---------^--------| 31
...

I also have the Deep Field Imager On, which reduces brightness a bit.

Thanks for the Part number. It's interesting that they show it as a 150-180 Watt device. I guess that means that they ARE varying Lamp power for the major modes of TV brightness.

It appears that the WD-65734 and WD-Y657 use slightly different naming terms for the On-Screen-Display adjustments. For "Picture Mode", my options are Natural, Bright or Brilliant. I am using Natural, as it has the lowest brightness, so yes it is probably 150 Watts. Even at that setting, I find White screens on commercials to be blinding in a dark room at night.

After selecting Natural, on the WD-65734, then the Contrast and Brightness setting have the word "Natural" preceeding them.

For example the display words are:

Picture Mode . . . Natural
<Press Video>
Natural Contrast . |------------^-----| 3?
<Press Video>
Natural Brightness |---------^--------| 31
...

I also have the Deep Field Imager On, which reduces brightness a bit.

"Picture Mode" does not affect lamp wattage. In the menu go to "AV" then "Global" then "Lamp Mode". You'll have two options, Bright and Standard. "Bright" is the default, which utilizes the full 180 watts. If you select "Standard" you will notice the screen dim a tad, and you will be using less wattage. Whether it's 150 watts, I don't know.

My 57734 turns itself a few times a week. I know it's a built-in safety feature of the TV for when it receives a dirty signal.

My question is - Is anybody using any of the power conditioning devices out there or perhaps a back up battery that would help diminish these instances?

If so which one is a good one to get.

Thanks much.

Danny

It's hard to explain. Really when watching a TV show or a movie and during a dark scene and more prevelant with a light source in the background such as a street light or lamp, the light source seems to glow or pulsate. The other issue in these darker scenes, dark grey or brown looking pixels will flash and almost look like dirty spots. I see this often, even on HD-DVD movies. I never saw this on our 52638.

I've infrequently seen what you are describing, but I attribute it to the video source.

To me it looks like the video was not encoded in 24-30 bits, but used something like 16 or 20 bits. It would be a bandwidth saver, just like you can select on your computer monitor. If they combined this bit saving encoding and the DLP low level bit switching (I described about a month ago), it might look like this problem.

I look at the same shades of grey and shaded colors on "good" video and they seem perfect.

There is the Video Noise (filter) available at Menu-AV-Global also. I'm hoping that the broadcasters fix a bunch of problems over the next several months.

"Picture Mode" does not affect lamp wattage. In the menu go to "AV" then "Global" then "Lamp Mode". You'll have two options, Bright and Standard. "Bright" is the default, which utilizes the full 180 watts. If you select "Standard" you will notice the screen dim a tad, and you will be using less wattage. Whether it's 150 watts, I don't know.

Thanks, I tried it.

Mine was set to "Standard" by the factory.

I was just thinking. The "Bright" setting could aggravate the fan noise problem.

I am not a guru in the electronic field and am considering purchasing the 73734. Is this a good set to purchase as best buy has them for $2399 right now! Is there a reason they came down close to 1k in price? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

New models are due to be released soon, the XX735 series.

New models are due to be released soon, the XX735 series.

Will there be a substantial difference? Will they still service the XX734?

Will there be a substantial difference? Will they still service the XX734?

The XX735 series will be a replacement for the XX733 series, and the XX736 series will be the replacement for the XX734 series. The XX736 will have 4 HDMI ports instead of 3 on the XX735, and also deep field imager. Probably a couple of other differences also.

They will continue to service the XX734 for years.

I am not a guru in the electronic field and am considering purchasing the 73734. Is this a good set to purchase as best buy has them for $2399 right now! Is there a reason they came down close to 1k in price? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

I paid $2399 for my 73734 several months ago at Amazon. No problems so far...

I am not a guru in the electronic field and am considering purchasing the 73734. Is this a good set to purchase as best buy has them for $2399 right now! Is there a reason they came down close to 1k in price? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

I got one for that price from Amazon in March. I'm exceptionally happy with it. I have not had any real issues with mine <knock on wood>.

At $2400, the 73734 is a steal IMO.