I've infrequently seen what you are describing, but I attribute it to the video source.

To me it looks like the video was not encoded in 24-30 bits, but used something like 16 or 20 bits. It would be a bandwidth saver, just like you can select on your computer monitor. If they combined this bit saving encoding and the DLP low level bit switching (I described about a month ago), it might look like this problem.

I look at the same shades of grey and shaded colors on "good" video and they seem perfect.

There is the Video Noise (filter) available at Menu-AV-Global also. I'm hoping that the broadcasters fix a bunch of problems over the next several months.

Thanks for the reply. Coincidentally, I logged in to post a message about this very thing. Is there something in particular about ABC and even some the other networks that could cause this? I recorded Lost tonight and it was flickering so much with a these pixels in dark scenes that I almost turned it off. In contrast, I watched a recording of CSI NY and didn't notice it once with just as many dark scenes. I do notice it mainly on ABC, but have seen this on other channels. Maybe very slightly on 1 or 2 HD-DVDs. It's definitely recorded because I can rewind it and see it in the same spots so that is why I wonder if it's something other than the TV. Another thing is that I tend like my screen bright and am probably noticing it more than other 57734 owners. Nevertheless, it does exist and it's very frustrating to watch dark scenes.

Question for you current owners/experts:

My 73734 will be delivered tomorrow, and I want to avoid as much trial and error as possible (got family members anxious to use it!).

Here is what I *want* to do. Hook my PC to tv's HDMI input (w/audio), and send the tv's digital coax to my receiver. My TV will be my HDMI mux if I get any future HDMI components because my receiver has no HDMI. Then, for all other sources of video, they will be muxed on my receiver, and send to the TV through component video. My receiver will upconvert my s-video VCR, and the front RCA (where I plug camcorder occasionally) into component video so I only need a single connection to the TV.

In summary, the TV will ONLY have two physical inputs: Component (my receiver), and HDMI (my PC).

I want to use netcommand so that the family can just use the TV's remote, and want to let it send the IR commands to my receiver using the IR emitter. I want it to switch the receiver's source by using the TV remote and going through its input menu.

My question: Can I get more than just the two physical connections to show up in the TV's input list? i.e. Can DVD, GAME, VCR, and Front all be mapped to the TV's Component1 input, yet pass a unique IR command to the receiver?

Please tell me yes! :)

My question: Can I get more than just the two physical connections to show up in the TV's input list? i.e. Can DVD, GAME, VCR, and Front all be mapped to the TV's Component1 input, yet pass a unique IR command to the receiver?

Please tell me yes! :)

If I understand your question correctly, no. You can't do that. Net Command works on the concept of inputs. It will certainly change the input and change the source on your receiver. But, it can only do it for any active input. You can't have phantom inputs defined that only send a command to the receiver and not actually change the TV input.

You'll need to either use two remotes (TV and Receiver) or get a nice Universal remote to drive them both. I use an MX500 in conjunction with the Net Command. I don't really need to use Net Command due to my remote but it's cool just the same. :)

My question: Can I get more than just the two physical connections to show up in the TV's input list? i.e. Can DVD, GAME, VCR, and Front all be mapped to the TV's Component1 input, yet pass a unique IR command to the receiver?

Please tell me yes! :)
As was already answered:NO.

However, I think you can setup your reciever to be controlled by the Mits remote. The only difference is that you wont be able to see any graphical interface on the TV itself..

Damn! Well, I'm still going to have to try some things to get it down to single remote. It's hard to explain to the wife sometimes the technical reasons why now it takes a bunch of remotes and buttons, when it only took one before, yet the new system is "better".

I ran into another issue I wasn't expecting, before I could even get to the issue that I *was* expecting (I was expecting to get screwed by HDCP with my intended setup).
Here is what I intended to do, as I describe on a different thread (with no answer): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13780897#post13780897

Now, the fundamental issue I ran into was that I couldn't get anything more than stereo to be sent out the HDMI from my PC to the Mits. I don't know if that is because the PC only detected stereo speakers on the endpoint (TV), or something more fundamental in either Vista or my video card. So what happened was that stereo content would go fine to the TV and get sent as stereo out the TV's coax. But 5.1 content wouldn't make a sound, even though my AVR locked to a digital stream (stereo).

I had to give up temporarily and just use my PC's coax straight to the AVR again, which means I have to select HDMI on the TV and Aux on the receiver, which REALLY sucks.

I may be searching for my own point solution here (probably not a common setup I haqve), but I'd love to hear any suggestions or experience with HDMI audio, HDCP, and SPDIF streams on the WD xx734's.

The digital out from that TV, and most others, will send 5.1 from the tuner to the AVR. It will not send 5.1 to the tuner from other sources. It will send 2.0. Most TVs are like this.

I suspect you are correct, or close, that the signal is being changed to stereo because the TV only has stereo speakers.

Your best bet is to use your optical or coax outs from your equipment to your AVR.

I noticed on our 57734 a popping noise when switching to a SD channel and the screen is set to stretch. Interestingly, when setting the display to 4:3, there's no pop and it seems that it happens when the screen goes black like when shutting off the 360. My TV sound is muted. Anyone else experience anything like this?

It seems like I've come across a real bug, unless I'm missing something. I found that yes indeed you guys are right and you can't map multiple audio sources to a single video source. The way mits intends you to use it is to mux all your video on the TV and mux all digital audio on the receiver. You can no longer use your receiver as a video mux, and get the "one touch" netcommand input switching.

Anyway, the bug I've found is that when I pick the one HDMI video source (my PC), it won't ever send the command to the receiver to switch to that digital audio (that I send straight to the AVR using coax). I've verified that the IR emitter is positioned correctly because all other codes work. I've also verified that the correct command *does* get sent when in the "learning" menu for the 4 receiver inputs. You can program it and hit ok and the command is sent correctly from within the menu. BUT whenever going through the TV's input menu, the "PC" selection is the ONLY one that doesn't correctly switch the receiver! It actually doesn't send anything to the receiver! So the audio stays stuck in whatever the previous selection was.

I only have one HDMI component, so I have no way of testing whether it is just an inherent flaw of the mits. Has anyone had a similar experience? Also, when switching to HDMI, it takes about 4 seconds before the video shows up. Is this typical? Again, never used HDMI before until now, and I'm reallly getting bitten by it....

Thanks!

In a related question to my previous post, does anyone know if calling an HDMI input "PC" versus other things, does anything meaningful internally with the way the TV handles the port? What about any internal differences between HDMI 1, 2, and 3?

With the unknown strangeness that I'm seeing (approx 5 seconds before any display, and netcommand won't send command to switch audio to AVR), I'm wondering if this can be solved by me using HDMI 2 or 3 ports instead, or by simply calling it "HD Disc" instead of PC. I just thought of trying this today on my way to work so I can't try it out yet.

My lame workaround I can do is to plug in a "dummy" connector to the TV in back (s-video or video), and map that to the correct AVR audio port that my PC is connected to. So now to get PC video and audio, I have to go to the input menu and first choose the "dummy" to get the audio to switch first, then PC to get the video to switch. This is a lot of buttons to push on the remote rather than just mapping one of the F1-F4 to switch the AVR audio, but is necessary to that the input can be selected at the front of the TV (remotes can get temporarily misplaced - happens a LOT in our house).

I'm having a problem with either my netcommand. It seems that sometimes my tv remote will control the Denon receiver with no problem. It will turn it off and on and adjust the volume. A few days ago it began to no longer respond. I have to hit the system reset button on the tv to get it to work again. I think it may have began when the power blinked on and off during a thunderstorm. Is there a way to reset the entire television? That is the only thing I have not tried.

In a related question to my previous post, does anyone know if calling an HDMI input "PC" versus other things, does anything meaningful internally with the way the TV handles the port? What about any internal differences between HDMI 1, 2, and 3?

With the unknown strangeness that I'm seeing (approx 5 seconds before any display, and netcommand won't send command to switch audio to AVR), I'm wondering if this can be solved by me using HDMI 2 or 3 ports instead, or by simply calling it "HD Disc" instead of PC. I just thought of trying this today on my way to work so I can't try it out yet.

My lame workaround I can do is to plug in a "dummy" connector to the TV in back (s-video or video), and map that to the correct AVR audio port that my PC is connected to. So now to get PC video and audio, I have to go to the input menu and first choose the "dummy" to get the audio to switch first, then PC to get the video to switch. This is a lot of buttons to push on the remote rather than just mapping one of the F1-F4 to switch the AVR audio, but is necessary to that the input can be selected at the front of the TV (remotes can get temporarily misplaced - happens a LOT in our house).

I didn't get any responses on this, but I thought I'd post my results.

Wild attempt #1: Change from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and see if it will switch the audio on the AVR. FAILED.

Wild attempt #2: Change the assigned name of the HDMI input from "PC" to something else. Tried "HD Disc" and it WORKED! Also tried "Satellite" and "DVD2" and both worked. Changed it back to "PC" and it failed again. So my workaround is to call my PC "HD Disc" in the input list. :) Fine by me since it is my BD/HD combo component.

Also, the display taking ~5 seconds to appear when switching to HDMI seems normal. Once the video shows up, it will *then* send the command to the AVR, as if it is waiting for a handshake back from HDMI.

In a related question to my previous post, does anyone know if calling an HDMI input "PC" versus other things, does anything meaningful internally with the way the TV handles the port? What about any internal differences between HDMI 1, 2, and 3?

With the unknown strangeness that I'm seeing (approx 5 seconds before any display, and netcommand won't send command to switch audio to AVR), I'm wondering if this can be solved by me using HDMI 2 or 3 ports instead, or by simply calling it "HD Disc" instead of PC. I just thought of trying this today on my way to work so I can't try it out yet.

My lame workaround I can do is to plug in a "dummy" connector to the TV in back (s-video or video), and map that to the correct AVR audio port that my PC is connected to. So now to get PC video and audio, I have to go to the input menu and first choose the "dummy" to get the audio to switch first, then PC to get the video to switch. This is a lot of buttons to push on the remote rather than just mapping one of the F1-F4 to switch the AVR audio, but is necessary to that the input can be selected at the front of the TV (remotes can get temporarily misplaced - happens a LOT in our house).

On my WD-Y577 I can only use the GAME video preset on inputs that are also labeled as GAME. Since my Wii and PS2 are the only ones using component I have them set as a GAME input and my 360 Elite using HDMI as another GAME input.

My girlfriend's PC is connected to HDMI 4 (on the front panel) and we use the stereo inputs up there for audio. Sounds like crap over the Mitsu's weak speaker but it works for her when we play World of Warcraft. The input is labeled at PC and does a good job of properly detecting the signal coming through.

I have a Mitsu Wd-73733 and i bought it about 2 weeks ago. How can i find the production date? Also should i stock up on bulbs because someone said they wont be servicing my tv anymore because the xx735 are out

I have a Mitsu Wd-73733 and i bought it about 2 weeks ago. How can i find the production date? Also should i stock up on bulbs because someone said they wont be servicing my tv anymore because the xx735 are out
they will be servicing that TV for many many years to come.

I noticed on our 57734 a popping noise when switching to a SD channel and the screen is set to stretch. Interestingly, when setting the display to 4:3, there's no pop and it seems that it happens when the screen goes black like when shutting off the 360. My TV sound is muted. Anyone else experience anything like this?

I get this all the time when using my PS3. Since the PS3 won't just upconvert everything to an output of 1080p, the TV has to swtich between 1080p, 720p, and 480p depending on the source I'm playing on it (some Blu-ray disc menu screens are 480p and some are 1080p, even on the SAME disc!). Every time my TV has to switch resolutions, it makes a "popping" noice, like the speakers just popped a little. My speakers are also muted, so I don't know why they would pop... if that is the speakers making the noise. It gets a little annoying, but I'm more afraid that something may be wrong with it. Anyone else have this issue too?

I'm having an issue i have looked all over this site my problem is silk screening of colors like white i have messed with all the settings on the TV's menu but the effect remains i have a wd-65734 i use a bd Sony ps3 and a 360 hd dvd the service menu is my last hope but i don't understand witch one is for white temp

I have had my 65734 almost a year now and still love it..... the only thing I don't like is the prices that I see some of you paying for this thing.


I just wanted to post a pic of how mine is set up b/c I saw where alot of you were trying to figure out where to put the center channel speaker. Believe me I tried everything before I finally bought the 2 piers and bridge(with shelf) I love it and the wife loves it now(very important).

I also put some black material behind the top shelf of the wall unit so you cannot see the wall anymore.

I did slide the entire unit over towards the door so the tv is now centered on the middle of the sofa.

My sub is now under the tv in the center cabinet behind the mesh door. I had to remove the rear panel but it does barely fit.

Check out my son on his couch watching tv.

before fix
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a209/annieigirl/IMG_7754.jpg

after
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a209/annieigirl/IMG_8623.jpg

I just wanted to post a pic of how mine is set up b/c I saw where alot of you were trying to figure out where to put the center channel speaker.

Cool. But how do you get behind it if you need to add or change connections? That's the biggest problem I see with lots of setups out there...

Here's my setup, incase anyone cares. The stand is called a "wall mount height" stand because it is 34" tall. Inside the mesh is a Wii and center speaker. I jigsawed out the entire upper half of the back panel for easy access. Plus, I have wood floors and the entire thing slides out really easily for those quick wiring changes! I have 3 hot components: The Denon AVR, the Moto DVR, and the HP Media Center PC. So what you don't see here is an ultra thin, ultra quiet laptop cooling pad (http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/SearchDetail.asp?productID=4800) sitting on top of the DVR. I hooked it to one of the switched outlets (110V) of the AVR, using an AC-to-USB power adapter, since the DVR only overheats when the AVR is on. Now it always runs cool. This allows me to use Netcommand and run everything with the cabinet closed.

image 1 (http://daemonic3.home.comcast.net/images/P1030045.JPG)
image 2 (http://daemonic3.home.comcast.net/images/P1030046.JPG)
image 3 (http://daemonic3.home.comcast.net/images/P1030047.JPG)
image 4 (http://daemonic3.home.comcast.net/images/P1030048.JPG)
image 5 (http://daemonic3.home.comcast.net/images/P1030049.JPG)

Cool. But how do you get behind it if you need to add or change connections? That's the biggest problem I see with lots of setups out there...

I try not to make any changes :D

Its a pain to add any new cables or gear but I have to call my neighbor for help and disconnect the two outside piers first than remove that bridge. Its not fun.


I like your laptop cooling pad idea daemonic, I will have to try that for my DVR and PS3

I try not to make any changes :D

Its a pain to add any new cables or gear but I have to call my neighbor for help and disconnect the two outside piers first than remove that bridge. Its not fun.


I like your laptop cooling pad idea daemonic, I will have to try that for my DVR and PS3


Note that the DVR's USB port is not switched, so the cooler will never turn off if you power it from there. Plus the port is in the front so it is ugly. If your PS3 has USB ports that drive power only when on, that is probably ideal.

By the way, I got 2 laptop coolers, one $13 from amazon, and the above one for $25. The $13 one is HORRIBLE and produces hardly any flow. The one from cyberguys rules... I don't think I saw that one on amazon though. Check reviews thoroughly before you buy.

The 73 Incher!!!

http://lh5.ggpht.com/nc88keyz/RvMqrZvsDuI/AAAAAAAAAIU/YXELwrm573g/RV%20006.jpg?imgmax=800

http://picasaweb.google.com/nc88keyz/Mits73833

You can see a 32" vizio as a place holder for 4 days while we waited for the 73" from Walts.

As far as getting it out. I can change that bulb in about 20 minutes.

Step 1. take down all stuff on the bridge.
Step 2. Roll out Center Piece ( I left plenty of slack on the HDMI cable from the AVR. We have "Super Sliders" on the piers as we have a dog and its very nessecary to dust behind there from time to time. Work great on the floors. )
Step 3. Replace Bulb.

I picked up the 5yr warranty this evening as well. as I have had the tv for 9 months.

A few notable upgrades since these pics were taken.

1. 5300ES replaced 3300ES for the AVR
2. Qty 2 HR20-700s and HR10-250s are currently the four DVRS in the bunker now on the lower right side.
3. All network cabling upgraded to Gigabit since the addition of the HP Mediasmart server upstairs.
4. Wireless logitech mous and keyboard (crap for range) has been replaced by Logitech Dinovo Edge. So much better with BT range. (Wondering now about the mini edge? ) anyone have it?

Still no Blueray DVD player. Not sure why. I think downloadable content is where its at with time.

I had to add 4 inch brackets found in the security and lock section at home depot to raise the bridge for the lip of the 73833.
Also placed a 2x4 support beam on the back wall into the studs to give extra support for that bridge because its actually fairly heavy.

Everything is controlled by logitech 880 and a MCE remote.

Enjoy 1080P the way it was meant to be seen :)

^^I think you need more figurines! :)

I have to count them .....then check my bank account. The wife picks them up and I dont know sometimes :)

I have an inventory and planogram so I know if there are new friends in there.

Dept 56 - Snowbabies are not cheap

I just received a WD-57734 as a replacement for my 57732 that had a light engine fail on me. There already seems to be a problem with this set. On some stations there is a long line that flickers white and there very top of the screen. Anyone know what might cause that or what I can do about it?

Hello, so After a few months back the service tech replacing the main board because of lines on the TV I believe the light engine to be going?

Basically My whites are the issue. sometimes I have blue or pink in them. I bought mine at Bernies so I will give them a call. seems like it is issue after issue.

I also have a loud fan and loud whine.

Not satisfied for the investment so far. I bet once it is 100% it ill be nice.

I have an 8 month old 57734 and have been waiting for receivers with the new audio codecs to arrive. I purchased a new Pioneer VSX1080AH-K a couple of weeks ago. Hooked up the XBOX360 and a Panasonic BD30 to the 1018 via HDMI then to the 57734 via HDMI. A couple of times I got a picture to display, then the next day the TV went out with the blinking green light problem.

I have the TV back and now I can't get the HDMI input(front or back) to work with the 1018, it works direct from a source, but not from the 1018. I have hooked up a Vizio 720P TV to the 1018 and it works ok. I have Monoprice 1.3 cables and have tried other cables but nothing works.

I found a forum post here or maybe somewhere else a couple of weeks ago that said something about Mitsubishi doing something different with their handshaking that could cause this problem(so much for standards). I can't find this info and would like to know something more about it before I call Mitsubishi, anyone have a problem like this?

Has anyone used DVE for setting the colors on this set? If so could you help me out with the settings please?
BTW I'm using a Toshiba's A35 HD DVD player and Dish's HD DVR 722 and running both thru Denon's 3808 AVR. Oh yea and a Xbox 360 Elite :)

I found a forum post here or maybe somewhere else a couple of weeks ago that said something about Mitsubishi doing something different with their handshaking that could cause this problem(so much for standards). I can't find this info and would like to know something more about it before I call Mitsubishi, anyone have a problem like this?

My brother sells Mitz's and says there is a known issues with the Mitz's ability to receive HDMI signals. Personally, my HDMI sources when plugged directly into the the TV take about three seconds to come up. When going through my Yamaha, the time is doubled. Also, sometimes my 720p images come up pink. But that's fixed when I switch to component and back.

I suggest calling Mitz's back and see what they say.

Has anyone used DVE for setting the colors on this set? If so could you help me out with the settings please?
BTW I'm using a Toshiba's A35 HD DVD player and Dish's HD DVR 722 and running both thru Denon's 3808 AVR. Oh yea and a Xbox 360 Elite :)

Ok this is a big thread but can anyone help with the color settings on this set? or at least with the post # on this?

Two things I found useful when I first got this TV:
1. Post #1039 in this thread

2. For settings I started with the CNET review and then spent alot of time with the "settings and tweaks" thread for this TV to fine tune to my preferences. I am sorry I cant post links for these since I dont have enough posts. You can find the CNET review through google and the settings thread is titled "Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread"

Hope this helps.

Two things I found useful when I first got this TV:
1. Post #1039 in this thread

2. For settings I started with the CNET review and then spent alot of time with the "settings and tweaks" thread for this TV to fine tune to my preferences. I am sorry I cant post links for these since I dont have enough posts. You can find the CNET review through google and the settings thread is titled "Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread"

Hope this helps.

Looks like I can post links now:
1. CNET Review: here (http://help.cnet.com/9602-12576_39-0.html?messageID=2510321)

2. Settings and Tweaks thread: here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12007432#post12007432)

Hey all. Picked up a WD-73734 for a song from Fry's about 10 days ago. I'll have to post some pictures of my newly finished basement and modest setup (simple TV stand for now).

What I'm wondering of any newer owners is this. After pouring through this post, it seems everyone is very intent on changing all the color settings to get a perfectly balanced picture/PQ. After playing will ALL the settings, taking advice from many different posts (CNET, several setup posts w/n this thread, etc.) I always come back to absolute factory default settings + Natural + High color temp. This is the ONLY setting that look even remotely good to the eye.

Am I alone on this? If I go to cool temp, or mess with PerfectColor or PerfectTint color representation very quickly goes bad. Did I just get lucky, or did Mitsu's ATE/factory cal get something fixed or corrected? Also, there is absolutely NO geometry issues with my unit at all (480i, 720p, 1080i anyway). So again, did I get lucky or are the newer sets coming out of the box really dialed in??

Quick setup notes:
WD-73734 DLP
Motorola Comcast HD DVR box (HDMI to TV, SPDIF to AVR)
Onkyo HTIB (I belive it's a 706 AVR) (Component video to TV)
Xbox 360 + HD-DVD (Component to AVR)
Wii (Component to AVR)
PS3 to be added soon, and I might end up rebuilding my PVR/PC to drive this setup also.

This set looks absolutely amazing at 1080i. Easily as good as anything in this price range (got it for $1800 + 5 year war.) The basement is nearly totally black when watching, but I've setup about 5 differnt banks of lights, all on dimmers, as you go back from the TV to sitting areas, past the drinkbar.

Have a question and a dilemma I am hoping you can help with. Is the 734 full 1080P with 1.3a HDMI inputs? If so, I am having a problem getting my Dish VIP 722 HD DVR to recognize a 1080P resolution. I do have it running through a Denon 3808 AVR. But I have it set on a pass through. Does anyone have a fix for this?

The 722 only outputs 1080i unless your talking about the VOD 1080p movies that just became available from Dish. I would rather rent movies from BB than pay Dish $6.99 for a 24hr rental.

The 722 only outputs 1080i unless your talking about the VOD 1080p movies that just became available from Dish. I would rather rent movies from BB than pay Dish $6.99 for a 24hr rental.

Yes sorry, I was talking the VOD channel. It said basically my display couldn't accept 1080P signal.
Well I wanted to try it since it was new and wanted to see how well this came thru and if the audio was different :) Oh and by the way the movie is only $2.99 thru August :),thats cheaper than renting it and I can't rent it on HD DVD anymore anyways and I'm not going BD till the prices come down on stand-alones.

I haven't tried it yet so I don't know if it works on my setup or not. I have a 622, but I think the only difference is the size of the hard drive. I have the 622 hooked up with component to the 734, so I have doubts about it working anyway, and I already own the I am Legend DVD. I have a PS3 that I use for BD, hooked up with HDMI, and it accepts the 1080p signal with no problem.

I'm having problems with the Pioneer 1018 and HDMI switching with my WD-65734 as benfc123 mentioned above. Anyone have a solution to get the Pioneer 1018 HDMI switching working with the Mits DLPs?

I'm having problems with the Pioneer 1018 and HDMI switching with my WD-65734 as benfc123 mentioned above. Anyone have a solution to get the Pioneer 1018 HDMI switching working with the Mits DLPs?


We should post this on this thread too... Glad it worked for you..

Got this from the blue ray forums:

"Yep... mine was out of the box turned on. And things were not pretty for awhile. The Mitsu was the most confused... I couldn't get it to do anything for awhile. After turning off the 1018's TV control I had to power it down then literally pull the plug from the wall for a few minutes. Just turning off and back on wouldn't clear it. Once it came back up it recognized something plugged into HDMI-1 and it worked fine."

Yes, good idea, that fix worked for me.

Anyone else seeing pixelation during the Olympics? It started during the opening ceremony, but it gets really bad during the swimming events. It only happens on events when the whole screen is filled with movement.

At first, I thought is was my HD receiver from Dish, but when I connected directly to my HD antenna, the pixelation continued.

I hoping its the feed from my local NBC station and not the Mits.

I noticed them also, At a friends house who has a LCD, was getting them also. It's the feed from NBC, not the set. The advantage of the DLP's is it can handle fast motion without a sweat. Unfortunately it doesn't help if networks compress their feeds.

I was wondering because a buddy who has DirecTv saw no pixelation. But now that I think about it, I think he has a 720p DLP.

ABC and ESPN "one and the same" broadcast their sports in 720P, for that reason, 1080i requires more bandwidth, Cable company and/or Broadcast stations have to compress the feed to fit thru the pipes. I'm still on the fence with the Direct and Dish, they are using mpeg4, The only way to see true 1080P on my Mits will be with Blue Ray.

Since where on the subject, I know the smog is bad in China, but even indoors, did it seem like there was a haze, nothing really looked sharp. Switched to a Cubs Game, You could count the sweat beads on the pitcher forehead, On NBC it was as if they had a filter to smooth out everything.

ABC and ESPN "one and the same" broadcast their sports in 720P, for that reason, 1080i requires more bandwidth, Cable company and/or Broadcast stations have to compress the feed to fit thru the pipes. I'm still on the fence with the Direct and Dish, they are using mpeg4, The only way to see true 1080P on my Mits will be with Blue Ray.

Well Dish is suppose to have I Am Legend in 1080P on a VOD channel. I was trying to see if anyone else had this TV and was able to get this resolution to come thru?

So right now I'm waiting for a call from the service center as to when a tech can come out to look at the screen regarding these images that are present when there's no signal and just a black screen when the set is powered on. So we'll see what happens. Now last night I noticed that there's a small black spec that's visible with the picture on and this is what I'm not really happy about. Anyone have any clues or have something like this on the screen? I'm within 30 day's of purchase so depending on what the tech finds out I may just return it for a new replacement.

Does anyone have an answer as to what causes this? I have this same issue and the "images" have increased in numbers from when I first noticed this issue about a month ago.

Started yesterday.. I turn on tv, it stays on for a few minutes, and it turns off by itself. Once I turned on again, it worked fine...

This morning, same thing happened.. Looks like problem is coming....

Anybody has had the same problem???

Mainboard in my 73734 was just replaced for the second time in less than a year due to freezing of the image and video artifacts. Just an fyi.

Mainboard in my 73734 was just replaced for the second time in less than a year due to freezing of the image and video artifacts. Just an fyi.

I had my main board replaced due to lines on my screen...

Right now my light engine is getting replaced due to the color wheel stopping and errors in starting the tv. And my white showing traces or red and or blue..

Ok, well the light engine was replaced and the Tech did the convergence.

These were the issues:

In the beggining:

TV stating to get loud, 4 weeks pass and we get vertical lines on the TV, Now the TV is useless as the lines fully cover the Screen, we are down for 2 weeks. Tach comes in and replaces the Main board. That fixes that. After the new main board is in I noticed pinks in the bright whites, peoples white dresses look half pink half white...

Now recently:

TV was humming loud, we got the blinking green light of death. this happened 1 time after shutting the tv down and then pulling the power cord off the receptacle. and then it happened one morning trying to catch the morning news before work.

I call the place i bought the TV from, they tell the tech place, I tell the tv repair place that I have pinks in my whites etc and that the TV once in a while stops from turning on and I can hear the power in the tv turn on the clicking off. The tech comes out and checks the TV... he finally notices what I was talking about, also notices the loud hum from the back of the TV... at first I was going to get a new main board again but upon further inspection he said the light engine was intermitently turning on. so he called back the mitsubishi place and asked for a light engine instead of the board.

TV guy came wednesday, replace light engine and the TV turns on fine now, the loud light engine hum is gone. problem is that the whites still have pinks in the and the TV picture is less then ideal, i mean I have to turn on the video noise filter to High. TV now is freezing the image for a few seconds then continues, on some channels I get a white line on the very top of the screen..

How many boards are in this TV, and could it be the main board?

Almost a year now and so far not impressed with my particular set...

Main Board = 1
Light Engine = 1

Anyone else have problems with this set?

Anyone else have problems with this set?

Have the 73in model for almost 2 years and no problems yet.

14 mts on a 65 no issues - love it

I have had the 73" for about 18 months. No problems, we love it! I bought it from costco.com

It's currently $2799.00 w/ free shipping and 90 day return(to the store) policy.

Anyone else have problems with this set?

I love my 57". My only problem is that it takes 10 seconds to change resolutions. (1080p to 480i for example.) No a problem when watching TV, minor annoyance when watching Blu-Ray and the special features are all in different resolutions.

I love my 57". My only problem is that it takes 10 seconds to change resolutions. (1080p to 480i for example.) No a problem when watching TV, minor annoyance when watching Blu-Ray and the special features are all in different resolutions.


Is that for HDMI sources? Mine takes about 5 sec to change to an HDMI source, but changing component sources is basically instant.

I have had no showstopper problems, but have found 2 of what I would call firmware bugs, with my own acceptable workarounds. I'm pretty sure they are rare cases that would not effect the general population wanting this awesome TV.

Is that for HDMI sources?

Yup, HDMI sources. PS3 to be exact.

Hey captain, just know that even with a good surge protector you're still going to have instances where the TV shuts itself off. But at least the surge protector is taking the hit and not your TV. Some people do put battery back up devices inline to help with the power-down of the TV.

I suppose the area where you live and the frequency of power outages would dictate how much protection you want to invest in.

Danny

I bought my WD-65734 about a year+ now and I've had this issue ever since I got it. There was a time where the tv would shut itself off once a day for almost every day, then it wouldn't do it for several days. It would just blink green and I would be able to turn it back on after the green stops blinking and the yellow solid light was left. It was strange at first and then kind of got annoying, but it would only do it once, after that, it ran perfectly.....
..... until now.
I get it 2 times now. It is already known that the moment I turn my tv on, approx. 5-10 mins in, it turns off... I turn it back on no problem, 5-10s again off. I wonder if next year i'll be quoting myself and saying it does it 3 times in one sitting lol.

The manual notes that it might be the lamp vent is dusty (but in all occasions it has been clean). It has led me to believe it is a electrical problem. I rent, so I have no idea where this outlet is connected to around the complex. I know for a fact bad signals are being sent, and I have a surge protector (very old though, I may invest in a good one).

Until I move out I can then know whether it truly was a electrical problem or if the tv is just ready to get replaced. Thankfully I have a 3 year warranty on this thing at Fry's.

I bought my WD-65734 about a year+ now and I've had this issue ever since I got it. There was a time where the tv would shut itself off once a day for almost every day, then it wouldn't do it for several days. It would just blink green and I would be able to turn it back on after the green stops blinking and the yellow solid light was left. It was strange at first and then kind of got annoying, but it would only do it once, after that, it ran perfectly.....
..... until now.
I get it 2 times now. It is already known that the moment I turn my tv on, approx. 5-10 mins in, it turns off... I turn it back on no problem, 5-10s again off. I wonder if next year i'll be quoting myself and saying it does it 3 times in one sitting lol.

The manual notes that it might be the lamp vent is dusty (but in all occasions it has been clean). It has led me to believe it is a electrical problem. I rent, so I have no idea where this outlet is connected to around the complex. I know for a fact bad signals are being sent, and I have a surge protector (very old though, I may invest in a good one).

Until I move out I can then know whether it truly was a electrical problem or if the tv is just ready to get replaced. Thankfully I have a 3 year warranty on this thing at Fry's.
Thats not normal. I would use my warranty service if I were you. This TV is too nice to have to put up with that. A good surge protector with a line conditioner would reveal if it's the TV or your electrical supply.

I've had my 65734 for about a year now and I've been very happy with it except for the resolution delay that someone spoke of above. The picture is still pristine and I've yet to see any TV this big look this good. Blu-rays are amazing on this set.

Hey guys, I've got a temperature question. Next week I'm moving across the country and using a Uhal. Its going to take several days and I was wondering if my 65734 could be damaged at all by sitting in a freezing cold truck overnight (northern Michigan) for a couple of days. I doubt it would cause any problems but just wanted to make sure.

Hey guys, I've got a temperature question. Next week I'm moving across the country and using a Uhal. Its going to take several days and I was wondering if my 65734 could be damaged at all by sitting in a freezing cold truck overnight (northern Michigan) for a couple of days. I doubt it would cause any problems but just wanted to make sure.
Da UP gets pretty cold, but you should be OK. Dont plug it in until its in room temperature.

Hey guys, I've got a temperature question. Next week I'm moving across the country and using a Uhal. Its going to take several days and I was wondering if my 65734 could be damaged at all by sitting in a freezing cold truck overnight (northern Michigan) for a couple of days. I doubt it would cause any problems but just wanted to make sure.

Should be ok BUT....do not bring it in and turn it on. I would bring it inside and let it acclimate overnight before turning it on.

Should be ok BUT....do not bring it in and turn it on. I would bring it inside and let it acclimate overnight before turning it on.

Da UP gets pretty cold, but you should be OK. Dont plug it in until its in room temperature.

Thanks guys

I was wondering if any owners of the Panny 35 bluray player were experiencing any video dropouts through hdmi from the 35 to the tv? The funny part is it only happens intermittently and sometimes won't do it after I eject and put it back in the player. Anybody have this same issue with the same equipment?

my mitsu 65833 sometimes gives me a green screen when i switch to my blu-ray input even though i can hear the audio. also, if i turn off 120hz on input it does it for all of them. it didn't do this before...someone w/ some expert knowledge would help1

anyone have a set with no calibrations by a professional. I want to see if mine is off by alot. seems like when the DM board was replaced the original settings were taken with the original DM board.

Below are the settings once I did, Menu> 2-4-5-7 then using video to scroll through the different numbers.

The low setting are the same (i.e. GGH for high and GGL for low)


1. HVPOS: 2 / 65533
2. GGH: 1024
3. GRH: 1024
4. GBH: 1024
8. CCA: 1
9. XRH: 0
10. YRH: 2048
11. GRH: 0
12. XGH: 0
13. YGH: 2048
14. GGH: 0
15. XBH: 0
16. YBH: 2048
17. GBH: 0
18. XCH: 0
19. YCH: 2048
20. GCH: 0
21. XMH: 0
22. YMH: 2048
23. GMH: 0
24. XYH: 0
25. YYH: 2048
26. GYH: 0
27. XWH: 542
28. YWH: 565
29. GWH: 2048
51. BMG: 0
52. BMR: 0
53. BMB: 0
54. OFG: 0
55. OFR: 0
56. OFB: 0
57. CMG: 100
58. CMR: 100
59. CMB: 100
60. IDL: 37
61. DBK: 1

anyone have a set with no calibrations by a professional. I want to see if mine is off by alot. seems like when the DM board was replaced the original settings were taken with the original DM board.

Below are the settings once I did, Menu> 2-4-5-7 then using video to scroll through the different numbers.

The low setting are the same (i.e. GGH for high and GGL for low)


anyone have the info i seek? :)

those look like default settings to me.

if you want to copy the original factory data press 0 after you enter the service mode.

those look like default settings to me.

if you want to copy the original factory data press 0 after you enter the service mode.

there has to be an explanation of why my lighter colors/whites have a pinkish tone on the edges. if this is factory settings then something else is wrong.

it is hard to capture on film but i will try.

this TV has had a new Main board and new light engine. still it is not as nice as when I first got it.

I don't think so. I would say engine with 90% confidence.
Let us know the end result.
BTW - that model doesnt have a 'DM' board it only has a 'MAIN' board.


oops, forgot to mention long ago that my issue was the Main Board.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93536&d=1193976284

I just got the 57-734 for $475, it was a display model? How good of a deal was that? And what do I need to know about this TV? I've had an instance or two so far when the TV isn't turning on, and the sleep light seems to be flashing? What is that all about?

I just got the 57-734 for $475, it was a display model? How good of a deal was that? And what do I need to know about this TV? I've had an instance or two so far when the TV isn't turning on, and the sleep light seems to be flashing? What is that all about?

I have the 73" model and your problem means trouble. If the warranty is good get it fixed or return it. The deal may not have been too good. A display model means it was on a lot. The bulb maybe going which is my guess as at least a good possibility.

Hey all, I was considering buying the Mitsubishi 73" WD-73735 or WD-73736 DLP TV with the matching stand made exactly for this model (stand MB-S73).

Does anyone have the matching stand with this display?

If so, could you please measure the height from the floor to the very top of the display when it's on the stand?

I see that the display sort of sits "inside" the stand a bit, so it might not be as easy as simply measuring the heights of both specs.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

I have the 73" model and your problem means trouble. If the warranty is good get it fixed or return it. The deal may not have been too good. A display model means it was on a lot. The bulb maybe going which is my guess as at least a good possibility.

Can you go further into detail on why it may be a problem? It just happened the first day I got the TV, but hasn't happened since...

Can you go further into detail on why it may be a problem? It just happened the first day I got the TV, but hasn't happened since...

It was not clear to me from your note that it only happened a couple of time and then quit.

I guess I would modify my recommendation to state to see if it happens again. Do you have a 30 day return available?

Make sure the back of the machine is clear as the heat from the bulb must escape.

Good luck

Hey all, I was considering buying the Mitsubishi 73" WD-73735 or WD-73736 DLP TV with the matching stand made exactly for this model (stand MB-S73).

Does anyone have the matching stand with this display?

If so, could you please measure the height from the floor to the very top of the display when it's on the stand?

I see that the display sort of sits "inside" the stand a bit, so it might not be as easy as simply measuring the heights of both specs.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.


62.25 inches

Can you go further into detail on why it may be a problem? It just happened the first day I got the TV, but hasn't happened since...
the 1st time you plug in the TV it boots for about 1 minute. during that time the power led is blinking.

is that what happened?

^ Hipnotiq, that's pretty much what happened....

62.25 inches

Thanks, overthehill!
I really appreciate this!

^ Hipnotiq, that's pretty much what happened....

I believe you stated that it happened several times.

If it happened only once after you plugged it into the wall then there is probably no problem as stated above.

When the set goes off while plugged in, it is in a standby mode and therefore comes on a little different then when first plugged in and turned on then

^ thanks.

Another question, so I just bought the 57'' display model for this set for $475 + tax.

Now I can buy the 65'' version of the 734 for about $700+ tax.

Either way, I will be keeping the 57'', I want to get the 65'' for the bigger room.

Is that a good buy? The 65733 is also available for about $630+ tax. That's the older model, but how does it compare to the 734?

How about shooting me a pm where you can get one at that price? I'll take whichever you don't.
Norm

Has anyone seen a problem with it looking as though the light engine is slightly strobing? I noticed it this weekend when watching the NFL playoffs in HD, but have seen it on other channels. It appears to occur when there is a bright picture with a fair amount of whites in the picture. It just looks almost like the lamp is strobing/flashing a bit.

Anyone have any ideas??

Has anyone seen a problem with it looking as though the light engine is slightly strobing? I noticed it this weekend when watching the NFL playoffs in HD, but have seen it on other channels. It appears to occur when there is a bright picture with a fair amount of whites in the picture. It just looks almost like the lamp is strobing/flashing a bit.

Anyone have any ideas??

I noticed, in the last couple of weeks, some kind of wavy/strobing lighting effect on mine. I first saw it on an HDMI PC input connection in a solid bright area of my XP desktop (the blue sky of the default desktop). I thought it was the PC connection, but then, a few days later, I saw it, temporarily, on my PS3 HDMI input. I haven't seen it any other times than those two. It doesn't seem to effect the whole screen, just a bright portion of it. It wasn't constant, but came and went when it was happening. My HDTV is a little over two years old and is on its 2nd lamp. The first went out after 1972 hours on the bright setting. The second should currently be at about 2300 hours and has been running entirely set on normal (as opposed to bright).

Has anyone seen a problem with it looking as though the light engine is slightly strobing? I noticed it this weekend when watching the NFL playoffs in HD, but have seen it on other channels. It appears to occur when there is a bright picture with a fair amount of whites in the picture. It just looks almost like the lamp is strobing/flashing a bit.

Anyone have any ideas??

Two of us had our 833's replaced with 835's for this exact issue. Replaced light engines and main boards and the problem never went away. Seems this might be becoming more of an issue.

Mike

hey guys, i have a 65734 that i replaced the pwb in and it has black and white lines in it. ill try to post a pic. but they are thick line horizontal and full screen

I'm not sure if the pop is a the TV switching between audio tracks or my blu-ray player.I think I remember the sound coming thru the AV reciever also. In either case'it's not that loud IMO, it kinda of reminds me of the pops I'd get from the needle on a vinyl LP turntable. I think I also get it when my HD sattelite box switches between SD and HD channels or even a different HD format such as 1080i->720p. I'm gonna have to pay closer attention to the pop to see where it's coming from.
Hello, somewhat new to this forum and site. Recently bought a BD player to add to the addition of my WD-73734. I wanted to add my findings to this discussion of the popping sound, since MIT doesn't seem to recognize this issue. I posted my findings here with an alternative resolution here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15517618#post15517618

And for those not wanting to link to that, in short, an authorized repair facility recommended turning off the TV speakers by connecting the TV digital audio out connector to and AVR. (doesn't have to be any input on the AVR that needs to be used.) Just make the connection from the TV to AVR so that the auto feature will enable you to turn the speakers off. This feature is not enabled if this connection isn't made. Once the connection is made and speakers are turned off, NO More Popping is heard.

Yes, the TV had issues before, main board was replaced and the most current FW is loaded. I tried 2 different branded BD Players and reproduced the same issue. I feel that something on the HDMI line and the main board is picking up some spurious line transitions signals coming from the players. Noticed it mostly when the laser was transitioning from the preview screens and when navigating the BD menus. Will all this and getting some resolution, I'm happy. Thought I'd pass this on, and apologize if it's repeated.

Hello, somewhat new to this forum and site. Recently bought a BD player to add to the addition of my WD-73734. I wanted to add my findings to this discussion of the popping sound, since MIT doesn't seem to recognize this issue. I posted my findings here with an alternative resolution here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15517618#post15517618

And for those not wanting to link to that, in short, an authorized repair facility recommended turning off the TV speakers by connecting the TV digital audio out connector to and AVR. (doesn't have to be any input on the AVR that needs to be used.) Just make the connection from the TV to AVR so that the auto feature will enable you to turn the speakers off. This feature is not enabled if this connection isn't made. Once the connection is made and speakers are turned off, NO More Popping is heard.

Yes, the TV had issues before, main board was replaced and the most current FW is loaded. I tried 2 different branded BD Players and reproduced the same issue. I feel that something on the HDMI line and the main board is picking up some spurious line transitions signals coming from the players. Noticed it mostly when the laser was transitioning from the preview screens and when navigating the BD menus. Will all this and getting some resolution, I'm happy. Thought I'd pass this on, and apologize if it's repeated.I' wanna give this a try. But I'd like you to clarify a bit. Are you saying that I should connect the digital audio out of the tv to digital audio in of the reciever( even if the audio signal is not passing thru the tv). I have my audio out from my PS3 plugged directly into my reciever and it's an optical connection. The PS3 seems to be the culprit when watching bluray. The popping usually happens when the bluray disc is playing previews and/or switching between menus. Thru the movie there's no pop ever.

I' wanna give this a try. But I'd like you to clarify a bit. Are you saying that I should connect the digital audio out of the tv to digital audio in of the reciever( even if the audio signal is not passing thru the tv). I have my audio out from my PS3 plugged directly into my reciever and it's an optical connection. The PS3 seems to be the culprit when watching bluray. The popping usually happens when the bluray disc is playing previews and/or switching between menus. Thru the movie there's no pop ever.
I have the Digital RCA out of the TV connected to a 2nd input on my AVR. Yes, connect the digital out of the tv to a free open input on ur AVR. I left mine connected. I haven't disconnected it so I'm not sure if the TV speakers would be re-enabled automatically or once you change the setting to off, there permanently off even if you disconnect the digital line from the AVR. I've been happy with getting the popping sound to go away using this work around. I hope this helps. Let us know what your results are.

I have the Digital RCA out of the TV connected to a 2nd input on my AVR. Yes, connect the digital out of the tv to a free open input on ur AVR. I left mine connected. I haven't disconnected it so I'm not sure if the TV speakers would be re-enabled automatically or once you change the setting to off, there permanently off even if you disconnect the digital line from the AVR. I've been happy with getting the popping sound to go away using this work around. I hope this helps. Let us know what your results are.
I must mention and forgot in the last post, this connection is only so that the TV sees this new connection and enables the menu option so that you can turn the speakers off. By default, this option is not enabled until you connect the out put to an AVR.

I would like to know if the WD73734 has an HDMI video "pass-thru" feature that will enable me to connect an external video processor to the Mit hdmi input and have the Mit pass-thru the video signal as processed by the external video processor (and thus not be altered by the Mit's internal processor). Any help how to achieve the above result will be appreciated.

I' wanna give this a try. But I'd like you to clarify a bit. Are you saying that I should connect the digital audio out of the tv to digital audio in of the reciever( even if the audio signal is not passing thru the tv). I have my audio out from my PS3 plugged directly into my reciever and it's an optical connection. The PS3 seems to be the culprit when watching bluray. The popping usually happens when the bluray disc is playing previews and/or switching between menus. Thru the movie there's no pop ever.
Was curious if you were able to resolve the popping sounds using my recommended proceedures? Let us know.

I was curious to know if I am nit-picking or if I have a problem with my 73-734. I noticed when I use my HTPC that the fonts are somewhat blurry. (using HDMI) There seems to be a ghosting effect. To verify it wasn't my source component I brought up the TV's menu and it too had this ghosting. I am attaching pics. On the menu picture, the ghosting is very obvious. Look at the AV letters. On the computer picture, it is not as noticeable on the pic as it really is. What do you guys think?

I was curious to know if I am nit-picking or if I have a problem with my 73-734. I noticed when I use my HTPC that the fonts are somewhat blurry. (using HDMI) There seems to be a ghosting effect. To verify it wasn't my source component I brought up the TV's menu and it too had this ghosting. I am attaching pics. On the menu picture, the ghosting is very obvious. Look at the AV letters. On the computer picture, it is not as noticeable on the pic as it really is. What do you guys think?
Does this ghosting effect happen on any other sources? Like BD, DVD, SAT, things like that? I haven't seen this issue before aside my issue I had late last year with the fonts having tick marks on each character. It was resolved by a new main board before the TV went out of warranty. Check ur cabling too, I have seen something like this on computer monitors which was attributed to using poor cabling that did not having the ferrite beads at each end. This could help however if your seeing this ghosting on multiple sourced inputs, I'd get the TV looked at soon. Lets us know how this goes.

Does this ghosting effect happen on any other sources? Like BD, DVD, SAT, things like that? I haven't seen this issue before aside my issue I had late last year with the fonts having tick marks on each character. It was resolved by a new main board before the TV went out of warranty. Check ur cabling too, I have seen something like this on computer monitors which was attributed to using poor cabling that did not having the ferrite beads at each end. This could help however if your seeing this ghosting on multiple sourced inputs, I'd get the TV looked at soon. Lets us know how this goes.

This happens on all sources. I brought up the TV's menu to remove any sources from the equation. The TV's menu should be independent of any sources.
I can't imagine it would be a cabling problem as I am using all HDMI sources. I could see this happening on an analog source (such as component HD) but not a digital source. I will call Mitsu on Monday.
So I take it that when others bring up the TV's menu that it is sharp and not ghosted like I show in my pic?

Thanks,

This happens on all sources. I brought up the TV's menu to remove any sources from the equation. The TV's menu should be independent of any sources.
I can't imagine it would be a cabling problem as I am using all HDMI sources. I could see this happening on an analog source (such as component HD) but not a digital source. I will call Mitsu on Monday.
So I take it that when others bring up the TV's menu that it is sharp and not ghosted like I show in my pic?

Thanks,
Ya, things should be sharp all the way around bud. Any chance you can check out a different TV, even if a non HDMI tv to make sure your sources and cabling is good. If you can and it looks good, ur MIT needs work. I'd get on the horn with a local authorized repair shop and talk to them about it. I hope ur tv is still under warranty. Let us know how it goes. Hope it gets fixed with out too much headache.

Two of us had our 833's replaced with 835's for this exact issue. Replaced light engines and main boards and the problem never went away. Seems this might be becoming more of an issue.

Mike

Finally starting to see others with similar issues. I will never again by a Mits, ever. We had a 52" about 3 years ago, started have a strobe problem with it, techs replaced the entire guts of the unit and finally replaced it with a 57" about 14 months ago. In the past 2 weeks, strobe issue has returned, going through the whole process again. Also having the popping sound issue, which is related to speaker sound. I have to manually switch to AVR and it goes away. When this TV is working like expected, it has a very amazing picture, but as said earlier, I will never buy another Mits again or a DLP for that matter.

I noticed, in the last couple of weeks, some kind of wavy/strobing lighting effect on mine. I first saw it on an HDMI PC input connection in a solid bright area of my XP desktop (the blue sky of the default desktop). I thought it was the PC connection, but then, a few days later, I saw it, temporarily, on my PS3 HDMI input. I haven't seen it any other times than those two. It doesn't seem to effect the whole screen, just a bright portion of it. It wasn't constant, but came and went when it was happening. My HDTV is a little over two years old and is on its 2nd lamp. The first went out after 1972 hours on the bright setting. The second should currently be at about 2300 hours and has been running entirely set on normal (as opposed to bright).

It will only get worse as time goes on, trust me. It started in the left corner for us on both our 52" and 57" and has now moved to both sides. It comes and goes, but is starting to happen more. My wife and I are working with the warranty company to get rid of this junker. As I posted earlier, techs replaced everything, and I mean everything on our first TV. Chances are, the warranty company is not going to authorize a new light engine for us. Definitely looking to get something better.

Hello all,

I'm seeing some very subtle flickering in the upper right corner of my set, that I don't *think* was there before (I think I would have noticed it). I have not had to replace a DLP bulb in either of my DLP sets yet. Is this a symptom of a bulb starting to go bad? I have the extended service so it's free to replace a bulb, I'm just wondering if that is a common symptom.

Thanks!

I tried doing a quick search but didnt come up with anything.

My 65734 has just started to give the blinking green light and does not power on. I have tried pulling the plug and the reset but no luck

Any other ideas?

My 65734 (about 15 months old) has developed the "strobing" effect. It's under a 5-yr extended warranty. Tech came out and ordered a light engine and bulb. Mitsu said parts on backorder and ETA is unknown but it'd be weeks vs. days. Waited about 1-2 weeks, no call from tech, ext. warranty, Mitsu, anyone. Decided then to pick up the phone and do some hollering at the ext. warranty company and where I bought my 65734 (OneCall.) I made it clear that I can no longer hopelessly wait on Mitsu to get the parts and requested a replacement. About 2-3 hrs. later I get a phone call from OneCall offering me a replacement, the Mitsu 65835. Was happy to hear. I was also told the existing ext. warranty contract would be fulfilled and would need to buy a new ext. warranty for the new set if I wanted one.

Thought about whether I wanted another DLP that would have similar problems down the road (mechanical light engine, short bulb life, lousy geometry, etc.) and paying about $300 for a new warranty. Decided to ask for a comparable LCD as a replacement and was offered the 52" Sony Bravia KDL-52V4100 LCD TV. Order was placed on a Fri, and the new 52" Sony LCD arrived following Tue. It's a fantastic TV!

Summary: glad I bought an ext. warranty on my 65734 DLP. Don't just wait on Mitsu or your ext. warranty company. Follow-up/through and get on the phone to demand what's right. OneCall has been absolutely fantastic. Great customer service. I love my new 52" Sony LCD replacement. Bye bye, Mitsu! So long.

My 65734 (about 15 months old) has developed the "strobing" effect. It's under a 5-yr extended warranty. Tech came out and ordered a light engine and bulb. Mitsu said parts on backorder and ETA is unknown but it'd be weeks vs. days. Waited about 1-2 weeks, no call from tech, ext. warranty, Mitsu, anyone. Decided then to pick up the phone and do some hollering at the ext. warranty company and where I bought my 65734 (OneCall.) I made it clear that I can no longer hopelessly wait on Mitsu to get the parts and requested a replacement. About 2-3 hrs. later I get a phone call from OneCall offering me a replacement, the Mitsu 65835. Was happy to hear. I was also told the existing ext. warranty contract would be fulfilled and would need to buy a new ext. warranty for the new set if I wanted one.

Thought about whether I wanted another DLP that would have similar problems down the road (mechanical light engine, short bulb life, lousy geometry, etc.) and paying about $300 for a new warranty. Decided to ask for a comparable LCD as a replacement and was offered the 52" Sony Bravia KDL-52V4100 LCD TV. Order was placed on a Fri, and the new 52" Sony LCD arrived following Tue. It's a fantastic TV!

Summary: glad I bought an ext. warranty on my 65734 DLP. Don't just wait on Mitsu or your ext. warranty company. Follow-up/through and get on the phone to demand what's right. OneCall has been absolutely fantastic. Great customer service. I love my new 52" Sony LCD replacement. Bye bye, Mitsu! So long.

Probably will end up doing this, as well. There is a very ugly technical flaw with Mitsubishi's DLP models, no question. Haven't noticed the issue enough to really push me yet, but I can tell everyone who has this problem that gutting out your TV is a temporary fix and the problem will come back.

Has anyone seen a problem with it looking as though the light engine is slightly strobing? I noticed it this weekend when watching the NFL playoffs in HD, but have seen it on other channels. It appears to occur when there is a bright picture with a fair amount of whites in the picture. It just looks almost like the lamp is strobing/flashing a bit.

Anyone have any ideas??


interesting, mine just started to do it, a slight strobing on bright scenes and solarization according to the tech. I did notice that if i put the lamp to high it goes away. put it back to low and it stays away for a few hours. sometimes it is random and doesnt do it all the time.

after my complaints of my whites being solarized with pinks, green and blues the tech got through to mitsu and they told him to throw in a new Main Board.

Main Boards = 2 (3 total counting original)
Light Engines = 1 (2 total counting original)


Issues now:

Washed out bright scenes
detail lost
solarization of whites
Low temp very yellow and green
Cant turn off sharp detailer and noise reduction off because if we did HD would look like Standard TV. Very noisy yellows as you can see the little pixel boxes (whatever they are called)

5 months ago we had our light engine replaced...

interesting, mine just started to do it, a slight strobing on bright scenes and solarization according to the tech. I did notice that if i put the lamp to high it goes away. put it back to low and it stays away for a few hours. sometimes it is random and doesnt do it all the time.

I believe ours is set to high unless like a few other settings that it changes itself. I will take a look at that. I really do like the PQ, but the issues with this thing are ridiculous.

This happens on all sources. I brought up the TV's menu to remove any sources from the equation. The TV's menu should be independent of any sources.
I can't imagine it would be a cabling problem as I am using all HDMI sources. I could see this happening on an analog source (such as component HD) but not a digital source. I will call Mitsu on Monday.
So I take it that when others bring up the TV's menu that it is sharp and not ghosted like I show in my pic?

Thanks,

The repairman came today. Upon looking at the TV's menu, he immediately said "The light engine is bad". He called Mitsu just to be sure. They are ordering one today and expect to have a replacement within a week.
I am sure glad I stumbled across this "focus" issue. Also, I rarely use this set as 99% of my TV viewing is in the basement while this TV is in the upstairs family room. So that is why this took 9 months for me to really notice.

Just noticed today that my 57734 has gotten much louder. Anything past about setting 3 for volume is extremely loud, like what a 15 setting would have been last week.

Anyone ever experience this?

Try a reset?

I have a 2007 57734. When I turn the set on it quickly shows the last chanel info at the top of the screen, then warms up some more then shows a blue screen. It does not show the last channel that was on. All I have to do is reenter a channel and it works fine.. Is this normal? Or do I have a problem. Have been comtemplating doing a reset....

The repairman came today. Upon looking at the TV's menu, he immediately said "The light engine is bad". He called Mitsu just to be sure. They are ordering one today and expect to have a replacement within a week.

Well that 1 week estimate was off. It is backordered and I get a new arrival estimate every week. Latest estimate is March 10.

interesting, mine just started to do it, a slight strobing on bright scenes and solarization according to the tech. I did notice that if i put the lamp to high it goes away. put it back to low and it stays away for a few hours. sometimes it is random and doesnt do it all the time.

I fixed my intermittent strobing issue by plugging the TV into its own surge power strip and plugging that power strip into its own receptical. I think I had many gadgets plugged into the surge strip with my TV - PC, satellite receiver, audio receiver, switcher box, PS3, Xbox 360, etc.. Though they are never on all at once, the problem was most preminent with the PC on. The PC has a 550 watt power supply and I know I am close to maxing it out.

Being a skeptic, yesterday I also went ahead and replaced the current working lamp which had 2700 hours on it (running on "standard"). My first one died at just under 2000 hours, but it ran on "bright" the whole time. I figured when the new one blows, I'll have the former one as a backup. I know these lamps are supposed to last 6000 hours, but I have my doubts based on complaints I've read about these models.

I have an odd problem - not sure what is the cause of it?

But it seems that every few days when I power up my 73 TV it doesn't "sense" the HDMI imput I have? It turns to an anntena input which I do not have. To fix the issue I typically have to unplug the HDMI cable and then plug it into one of the other ports. That typically works...


my set up:


Onkyo 706 -> TV via HDMI

PS3 <--> Onkyo 706 via HDMI
HD TiVo <--> Onkyo 706 HDMI
Apple TV <--> Onkyo 706 HDMI
LG HD/BD Player <--> Onkyo HDMI


99% of the time the TiVo is the unit being sent to the TV -- now when I unplug the HDMI from the TV (during one of these issues) the audio from the TiVo is heard?

Any suggestions?

Yes, I have the same problem. I worked at Tweeter for 3 years and I still was dumb enough to buy a WD65734.

The WD-65734 would be one of the best deals out there if it performed "normally". By this I mean what you expect when you spend your own hard earned money. This Tv as well as any Mitsubishi Tv made since 2001 will always have some kind of problem. I had a conversation with one of our Mitsu vendors at Tweeter and he admitted that these sets used to be made very well i.e. rear projection Non-HD 4:3. After selling this stuff and researching for years I have come to this conclusion. DO NOT buy anything made by Mitsu after 2001!!! Please do not do the same as I did. I should have known better after Tweeter made me lie to customers and say that they should buy one. I do however, stand behind the DLP technology. Just made by a different brand, thats all. Be smart and get a Samsung! I would say Sony but the A series was the last of a dying breed. BTW I do have a 5 year extended warranty from service net which IS a great company. I complained about the flicker issue which first started on the top left of the screen and has now spread like a virus to the rest of the Tv. The Tech whom which I also worked with at Tweeter changed the lamp today. The odometer on the menu read 3,742 hours. Guess what? The Tv still flickers and strobes! Now I used up my free-lamp replacement with 3 and half years left on my warranty. Whats going to happen when I ask for my original lamp back? It looks like the lamp wasn't the problem but it just got replaced today. So now the tech will come back, change a board, the tech will come back, change another thing and I will still be left with basically a brand new flickering Tv. Looks like Mitsubishi got me again just like my old Tweeter customers. Oh, did I forget to mention the same goes for Mitsu's LCD sets as well? I can guarantee that you will get green or blue vertical lines on either the left or right side. We were told at the store during liquidation to sell them anyways and to show the Tv on a signal that might hide the defects. Ok guys, I'm done complaining!

My girlfriend has a 2003 Mitsu Eclipse less than 35k miles which she bought brand new and guess what? It's falling apart already. Just like any other product made by Mitsubishi after 2001. Word is on the street that this once reliable company changed it's moral ways after it sensed tough times coming. They tried to make cheaper, crappier products to save money and rip off consumers worldwide. Thanks to Mitsubishi I can drive a car that might or might not get me home to a broken TV that might or might not work as well. They should be banished!!!

I have the 73" model for about 2 years now and have had not one issue so far.
I connect everything via HDMI.

I have about 3400 hours as well. Still a bright beautiful picture running at one notch down from the max brightness.

I would not hesitate buying another Mits unit and looking forward to the new 82" models coming out.

I also have the 5 yr warranty and have not used it yet.

It's not the lamp. I had strobing that started in the left hand corner and it just gets worse from there.

I have the 73" model for about 2 years now and have had not one issue so far.
I connect everything via HDMI.

I have about 3400 hours as well. Still a bright beautiful picture running at one notch down from the max brightness.

I would not hesitate buying another Mits unit and looking forward to the new 82" models coming out.

I also have the 5 yr warranty and have not used it yet.
Oh, there is no doubt that if this WD-65734 was running correctly it is one of the best piece of gear that I could get for 1,200 dollars on accommodation from Mitsubishi back in 2007. The problem is that I have yet to see a set that is 100% what it should be. I'm not even that much of a picky, OCD kind of person. I just noticed today that there are black specs behind my screen. Must be some dust or dirt on the mirrors or lens right? Service Net won't admit that they should cover this because they claim that their contract won't cover routine maintenance. So you are telling me that this TV needs routine maintenance in order to work properly? I'm not a technician. Look, the point is that people work so damn hard for their money especially in rough economic times. I just don't want others to ever after to deal with what I had to. Be smart, if it walks like a duck it probably is one considering I'm not the only one with this problem. Thats great that your TV still works the way you wanted it to after 2 years OVERTHEHILL. I just hope I'm not the one who "told you so" when something does go wrong.

"I'm not even that much of a picky, OCD kind of person. I just noticed today that there are black specs behind my screen. Must be some dust or dirt on the mirrors or lens"

:-)

Who but an OCD type would even look at the screen hard enough to see them.
I guess a magnifying glass was helpful :-)

Just kidding a little :-)

I have the 73" 60 htz. for about 2 years. Works fine, just a little picture distortion, about top 1" / center of the screen. I don't think thats worth worrying about. Still under warranty.

How do I tell how many hours, I have on it?

how do i tell how many hours, i have on it?

menu 2470

what so I press "menue 2 4 7 0"

what so I press "menue 2 4 7 0"

Yep, press the Menu key, then 2470 number keys

So I had a tech come out to replace the light engine on my WD73734. (My set had some serious ghosting). The new light engine goes in and.....ghosting is still there. Grrr...... Mitsubishi wanted the tech to remove the screen and inspect it. While he had the screen off and was inspecting it, I put up a piece of paper against the mirror. The ghosting was showing up on the paper, so now we know it is not the screen. So Mitsubishi tells the tech to change the mainboard (he said it was aka the A/V board). Sigh!!! Ok now I have to wait for another part to come in.

Whats up everyone,

I ve been reading on this post for a few hours and i have a few things that are going on with my set that maybe someone could either direct me to the answers or tell me the tell me the answers if you happen to know them off your head.

I have a wd-57734 and have problems with it since I got it in nov of 2007. Nothing too major just annoying more than nething until last week.

Right before i went on vac around the 1st of april i noticed my screen was extremely dark and when i got back last week my tv wont turn on at all and it just makes a loud hissing popping noise then turns off and the red lamp light comes on.

Obviously I need a new bulb so does neone know a good place to get once cheap? Ive looked around on the net and i see them range from 130-250, just would like someones opinion on which place would be the best value.

Also ever since I first got the Tv there has been a spot right in the dead middle of the tv that is much lighter than the rest of the set. I had a tech come from mits to repair it and he said it might be the light wheel but he seemed upset that he had to open the side of my tv and take it off the stand and has never called me back to actually fix the thing. Does anyone know if that is what that problem would be?

And finally when he opened up the set he said he saw a finger print on the mirror and I have lots of black smudges on the Tv screen which I assume is from dirt and grime and i guess a stray fingerprint on the mirror. Does anyone know a site that gives detailed instruction on how to clean the mirror without messing it up?

Thanks to any and everyone who can help me with my problems!!!!!

I finally replaced my bulb in my 57734 TV today, it was not burned out it still had a good picture. The bulb had 7,764 hrs on it, the new bulb makes the picture a lot brighter and sharper looking. When looking at the new bulb and the old bulb, the new bulb reflector is nice and shiny where the old buld reflector was starting to get dull.

I bought the bulb with the housing from www.tvlampsforless.com in case any one is interested, they are an advertiser on this forum. I ordered it late Friday night the 15th and received it Wednesday the 20th, the bulb has a one year guarantee from Mitsubishi and 90 days from the supplier. I plan on keeping my old buld for a back up.

The cost of the bulb and housing was $189.00.

Having a strange problem with my Mitsubishi WD-57734. The brightness on the thing has recently seemed to go down, everything looks a bit grayer and washed out. The strange thing is the brightness varies from scene to scene. When the ambient light on a scene is dark, it gets darker and then if the scene changes to something brighter, the brightness on the television goes up. Also, if I bring up any OSD menus you can see that the brightness goes up when the menu is on, but then goes back down when the OSD is off. And sometimes the brightness will just cycle up and down a little on it's own while watching something. I've noticed the problem is less pronounced when switching the picture mode to bright.

I'm afraid I don't really know much about television terminology so I don't know if there is a word from this problem like "strobing". And I can't really say for certain if this is an issue with brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc. because I don't really know what the differences are between them. But this issue is really bugging me.

Having a strange problem with my Mitsubishi WD-57734. The brightness on the thing has recently seemed to go down, everything looks a bit grayer and washed out. The strange thing is the brightness varies from scene to scene. When the ambient light on a scene is dark, it gets darker and then if the scene changes to something brighter, the brightness on the television goes up. Also, if I bring up any OSD menus you can see that the brightness goes up when the menu is on, but then goes back down when the OSD is off. And sometimes the brightness will just cycle up and down a little on it's own while watching something. I've noticed the problem is less pronounced when switching the picture mode to bright.

I'm afraid I don't really know much about television terminology so I don't know if there is a word from this problem like "strobing". And I can't really say for certain if this is an issue with brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc. because I don't really know what the differences are between them. But this issue is really bugging me.

How old is your lamp?

well

so far I have had a main board replaced, a light engine replaced, another main board replaced.

That is 5 days off from work to have the TV looked at and a second day for the techs to come out.

Just recently I called and a tech came out. He looked at the TV and said skin tones look fine. Talked to Mitcubishi and told them "customer claims there are pinks and other colors in the whites". Mitsubishi told him to reset the TV and this was considered a repair per their office. I was told my cable tv signal is bad and I need to replace my panasonic blu ray player.

I called the customer relations department and told them my problem, they set up another appointment to have the same company come take a look. what good does that do since the tech said it looks good?

The service company calls back stating that they did all they can do and replace all the parts to fix it so they will no longer repair the tv.

I had charter cable come out and check my signal coming in, we have RG6 cable coming in the condo. Signal is good.

at this point i want a replacement as I am still paying on this tv. They said that since mitsubishi and the tech claims no issues with the tv there can be no replacement made.

also mitsubishi directs me to my contract repair warranty place. they state they have nothing to do with this since it is out of warranty. its a bounce back and forward battle now.

Tv has over 6,700 hours on it and original bulb.

In the image attached is the movie hellboy II on BD using my panasonic 35 BluRay player and HDMI.

i had to play with the shutter speed on the camera to capture the Pink in the image so it looks a bit dark. but the pinks in the images is what I am complaining about, which is what the tech said he couldn't see it and it looked fine..

I bought it september I believe of 2007 and the 3rd week the main board died and July 2009...my problems continue..

I fixed my intermittent strobing issue by plugging the TV into its own surge power strip and plugging that power strip into its own receptical. I think I had many gadgets plugged into the surge strip with my TV - PC, satellite receiver, audio receiver, switcher box, PS3, Xbox 360, etc.. Though they are never on all at once, the problem was most preminent with the PC on. The PC has a 550 watt power supply and I know I am close to maxing it out.

Being a skeptic, yesterday I also went ahead and replaced the current working lamp which had 2700 hours on it (running on "standard"). My first one died at just under 2000 hours, but it ran on "bright" the whole time. I figured when the new one blows, I'll have the former one as a backup. I know these lamps are supposed to last 6000 hours, but I have my doubts based on complaints I've read about these models.

I would have thought the problem was the lamp, but PC's typically have cheap power supplies that have no power factor correction. They suck all their current at the peak of the AC sine wave which could affect other items connected to the same strip.


It's not the lamp. I had strobing that started in the left hand corner and it just gets worse from there.

Why don't you think it's the lamp? The arc gap between the electrodes is extremely small and precision located inside the Lamp. When the arc jumps from one side of the electrode to the other side, it makes the light source move side-to-side on the display image. A slight flicker or misaligned electrodes on the lamp could affect one corner of the screen.

Design changes were made years ago to keep the arc in the center of the electrode. Starting the TV for short periods of time will prevent the lamp halogen cycle from stablizing. Do not turn it on for just several minutes and then off, it is bad for the lamp.

When you start the arc lamp, the ignitor hits the electrodes with thousands of volts and splater metal around. It sort of damages the lamp, but it heals after running for a while. I don't use that TV unless I plan to have it on for an hour or so.

Having a strange problem with my Mitsubishi WD-57734. The brightness on the thing has recently seemed to go down, everything looks a bit grayer and washed out. The strange thing is the brightness varies from scene to scene. When the ambient light on a scene is dark, it gets darker and then if the scene changes to something brighter, the brightness on the television goes up. Also, if I bring up any OSD menus you can see that the brightness goes up when the menu is on, but then goes back down when the OSD is off. And sometimes the brightness will just cycle up and down a little on it's own while watching something. I've noticed the problem is less pronounced when switching the picture mode to bright.

I'm afraid I don't really know much about television terminology so I don't know if there is a word from this problem like "strobing". And I can't really say for certain if this is an issue with brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc. because I don't really know what the differences are between them. But this issue is really bugging me.

Most of your simptoms seem similar to the guy above. Get a new lamp.

My 65734 (about 15 months old) has developed the "strobing" effect. It's under a 5-yr extended warranty. Tech came out and ordered a light engine and bulb. Mitsu said parts on backorder and ETA is unknown but it'd be weeks vs. days. Waited about 1-2 weeks, no call from tech, ext. warranty, Mitsu, anyone. Decided then to pick up the phone and do some hollering at the ext. warranty company and where I bought my 65734 (OneCall.) I made it clear that I can no longer hopelessly wait on Mitsu to get the parts and requested a replacement. About 2-3 hrs. later I get a phone call from OneCall offering me a replacement, the Mitsu 65835. Was happy to hear. I was also told the existing ext. warranty contract would be fulfilled and would need to buy a new ext. warranty for the new set if I wanted one.

Thought about whether I wanted another DLP that would have similar problems down the road (mechanical light engine, short bulb life, lousy geometry, etc.) and paying about $300 for a new warranty. Decided to ask for a comparable LCD as a replacement and was offered the 52" Sony Bravia KDL-52V4100 LCD TV. Order was placed on a Fri, and the new 52" Sony LCD arrived following Tue. It's a fantastic TV!

Summary: glad I bought an ext. warranty on my 65734 DLP. Don't just wait on Mitsu or your ext. warranty company. Follow-up/through and get on the phone to demand what's right. OneCall has been absolutely fantastic. Great customer service. I love my new 52" Sony LCD replacement. Bye bye, Mitsu! So long.

So you've had several field techs tear your machine apart a several times due to a minor problem, and now it works worse.

Humm, that is the same experience I have had on everything I have ever owned. That is why I try to avoid having amature techs do alignments that are best done one time, on custom set-ups in the factory.

In the manufacturing operations where I used to work, we had a name for it. It's called "Work Hardening". After a unit is reworked a couple times it is better to scrap it, than try more repairs. Each repair typically damages the unit slightly. A few repairs turn it into unreliable junk.

I fixed my intermittent strobing issue by plugging the TV into its own surge power strip and plugging that power strip into its own receptical. I think I had many gadgets plugged into the surge strip with my TV - PC, satellite receiver, audio receiver, switcher box, PS3, Xbox 360, etc.. Though they are never on all at once, the problem was most preminent with the PC on. The PC has a 550 watt power supply and I know I am close to maxing it out.

Being a skeptic, yesterday I also went ahead and replaced the current working lamp which had 2700 hours on it (running on "standard"). My first one died at just under 2000 hours, but it ran on "bright" the whole time. I figured when the new one blows, I'll have the former one as a backup. I know these lamps are supposed to last 6000 hours, but I have my doubts based on complaints I've read about these models.

Just an update. It has now been almost 5 months since my quoted post above, and I have not seen any more strobing at all with the changes made.

OK guys, my WD-73734 is getting dim. If the brightness setting is set at middle, the picture would be quite dark showing lots of 'black area'. is it time to change the lamp? or there are other adjustments that I can do?

If I have to change lamp, should I call a mitsubishi service rep or is it easy enough to do DIY?

Besides, should I just buy
http://needleguy.com/images/RP-E022.jpg
or
https://www.interlight.biz/itemimages/punh.jpg

OK guys, my WD-73734 is getting dim. If the brightness setting is set at middle, the picture would be quite dark showing lots of 'black area'. is it time to change the lamp? or there are other adjustments that I can do?

If I have to change lamp, should I call a mitsubishi service rep or is it easy enough to do DIY?



Ha.. I'm going through the same thing now. After about 5500 hours I am getting some dimming and even slight strobing.

I decided to order just the lamp and try to change it myself. It should be here by the end of the week, i'll let you know how it goes.

Ha.. I'm going through the same thing now. After about 5500 hours I am getting some dimming and even slight strobing.

I decided to order just the lamp and try to change it myself. It should be here by the end of the week, i'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks man, looking forward to hear more about your experience.

Just changed the bulb in my 65734 after 5800 hours on the first bulb. Changed it myself with no problem except for the fact that i kept trying to test to see if it works without putting the access door on the back of the set. Once i figured that it would not work without putting the door on, my set looks better than new. For the record, i guess i have been one of the fortunate ones. Never had the hum or blooming issues and the bulb i pulled out still had some life, just had gotten dimmer and with college football starting, i had to have it perfect. Checked my colors and everything looks great. I know some have had troubles, but I happen to love my set!

Is there a way to fix this flicker and Pop for the wd57734
at one time I had my ps3, hd-dvd, and dish receiver connected via HMDI. on ps3, with blur-rays, it flickers and pops. The duration depends on the movie. For instance Wall-E is really bad. I dont have sound. except for the popping.
The HD-DVD flickers and pops but at most is 3x.
Box. would only pop. when i would change channel by the up/down arrow. If I typed it in manually, no problem.

Well I recently switched to Comcast, and the HDMI doesnt always work, like it isnt recognized. Though, I currently have the component cable in, and it works fine, and with that, i checked the connections, the menu says it "sees" the HDMI, but all i usually get is the blue screen and no sound. But since Comcast keeps informing me, that their HD is only 1080i, and the cables provide that. That I am not too worried about.

Mainly its the ps3, watching Blade Runner, Wall-E. I am scared of blowing the speakers. I have three different cables, all 3 different hdmi inputs.

Though only one I haven't tried was the 4th front one.
I was told that it is just the TV adjusting to the Ratio change. If that was the case, why would it still be happening after the movie has started...?

Any thoughts?

I recently upgraded my AVR to the Onkyo RT-160, and to make a long story short, have decided to use NetCommand to do the switching (the AVR won't control the Mitsu). Anyway, when I hook everything back up to direct video input to the TV, audio to the Onkyo and then perform the LEARN functions under NetCommand, nothing works as it should. No response from the AVR. Have messed around with the IR emitter from all angles to the sensor on the Onkyo, etc. It was working fine with the old Pioneer AVR just a few days ago. I seem to remember though that there was 'trick' to get the 73734 NetCommand to work properly when switching AVRs, but for the life of me I can't remember (two years ago, and plagued with senility).

Anyone have a clue? Solved a similar problem? Either that, or is there any way to get the AVR to control the ON/OFF and inputs of the Mitsu?

Thanks for any clues.

Steve in Chicago

73734
Onkyo RT-160
Sony Blu-ray
DISH HD DVR
XBOX 360
HTC quad-core Athalon

Inputs to AVR:
Blu-ray - COAX1
HTC - COAX2
DISH - OPT1
XBOX - OPT2

and to make a long story short, have decided to use NetCommand to do the switching

Sorry don't have any suggestions. I gave up on NetCommand and now Harmony.

On a side note, I going to replace my bulb this afternoon. Any suggestions?

I am having a probem with my WD-65734. I recently moved myself and when i got it to my new place, the colors seem to be banding and pixelized. I had zero problems intill now. I attached two video samples.

Could it be one of the boards. I am doing OTA programming. I have already a master reset and reset channels.

http://media.hunt4m3x.net/files/1/tv1234/M2U00244.MPG
http://media.hunt4m3x.net/files/1/tv1234/M2U00245.MPG

delete

Has anyone seen a problem with it looking as though the light engine is slightly strobing? I noticed it this weekend when watching the NFL playoffs in HD, but have seen it on other channels. It appears to occur when there is a bright picture with a fair amount of whites in the picture. It just looks almost like the lamp is strobing/flashing a bit.

Anyone have any ideas??

Hi, I have had my 73734 for about 2 years(not sure the number of hours on the bulb), and had the EXACT same problem as you describe. I have the 5 year warranty-won't buy a big screen without it. tech came out. replaced the bulb, and BAM, the picture just popped-looked as good as the day I bought the set and calibrated it. this bulb swap was done about 6 weeks ago, and still perfect.

I know these sets are finicky, but a 73" beautiful HD picture for less than $3k? no other technology I know of can come close to this price point.

Have same set and 5005 hours. It began to get dimmer and strobe a little. Have 5 yr warranty and told them I would replace it myself. They sent new one in3 days and I replaced it with no problem.

Take out 1 screw and loosen 2 screws, remove by pulling it out, push new one in.

Tighten screws and all done in about 10 min or less. No problems. Screen looks like new.

I am still good for 1 more free bulb as I understand it within the 5 years.

BTW hours can be read on screen by pressing menu then 2450 and at left side near the bottom will be the hours of use.

Does not reset with new bulb so write down the finish value somewhere

Hi, I have had my 73734 for about 2 years(not sure the number of hours on the bulb), and had the EXACT same problem as you describe. I have the 5 year warranty-won't buy a big screen without it. tech came out. replaced the bulb, and BAM, the picture just popped-looked as good as the day I bought the set and calibrated it. this bulb swap was done about 6 weeks ago, and still perfect.

I know these sets are finicky, but a 73" beautiful HD picture for less than $3k? no other technology I know of can come close to this price point.


It is probably arc jump in the lamp.

The arc can jump from one side of the electrode to the other. As the arc moves in and out of the sweet spot, it may:
1) make the brightest area of the screen shift back and forth or
2) cause more of the light to be lost, resulting in a strobing effect.

I would expect the problem to go away after a while. It might indicate the lamp is near end-of-life, but can just happen too.

I have a WD65733 and i cant get any of the hdmi to work.I can plug a cable in and it says that it has detected somthing then goes on to ask me what type of connection (cable,dvd,game ect....)But after that all it will give me is a blue screen then after a few minutes it says that there is no signal and will shut off.I have tried 360s and dvds and cable boxes.Is there a way to turn the hdmi on and off Thank you

Wonder if any other non HDMI connections work? I presume so. I believe the HDMI is pretty much automatic along with all the other connections. Once the TV detects the connection and you select a Icon for the device, it sets it up in the input menu for use. I presume that you have selected the device from the input menu? I have a WD-73734 and using 3 HDMI devices direct to the TV from each device and 1 Component device. All were auto detected and assigned a input icon and all work correctly. Have you reviewed the TVs setup menu for any additional connection options?


I have a WD65733 and i cant get any of the hdmi to work.I can plug a cable in and it says that it has detected somthing then goes on to ask me what type of connection (cable,dvd,game ect....)But after that all it will give me is a blue screen then after a few minutes it says that there is no signal and will shut off.I have tried 360s and dvds and cable boxes.Is there a way to turn the hdmi on and off Thank you

Yes all the non HDMI connections work.I have went into the setup options and cant find anything in it.I have even went into the service menu(menu then 2457)and there is nothing in there either.Other than the reset button on the front is there any other reset to do?

Yes all the non HDMI connections work.I have went into the setup options and cant find anything in it.I have even went into the service menu(menu then 2457)and there is nothing in there either.Other than the reset button on the front is there any other reset to do?

Not that I know of, these TVs are fairly simple to set up, nothing really to do. I would make sure that the Devices are setup for HDMI output. Some devices have to be setup in there own menus to instruct them to output the signal to HDMI. Check for that. Take one of the devices to a different TV that has HDMI and check to make sure it's working. If all else fails, might have to call a MITs tech and ask them whats going on. You might have a bad main board. Like I said before, the TVs are pretty much automatic when devices are added and inputs are detected. Like last nite, I hadn't noticed this before, however I put a BD in my blu ray play last nite while the TV was shut off. The BD Player automatically turned on the TV and the TV selected the BD player input on HDMI by itself. Yours should be doing the same thing. Let us know how it goes.

Pufous,

First unplug the hdmi's you have plugged in, press the menu button, then press the input button, scroll down to the hdmi 1-2 & 3 screen, set each one to off, exit the screen, plug in your first hdmi you want to work and see if the menu comes up on your screen and pick the input you want from the choices, see if this will work for you.

Tried searching for this with no luck, so here it goes.

Are there any drawbacks to using the digital audio output from the back of the Mits TV as the only connector to an AV receiver for audio? I have limited digital inputs on my receiver (have 3) and will be adding a 4th component to my setup this weekend. If I connect a DirecTV box, Cable box and Blu-Ray to the TV via HDMI - will it pass on the digital audio from all three via its output without any issue? This would allow me to not relegate one to stereo audio.

And another question - I did MENU 2-4-7-0 and the number in the lower left is 03938, does that mean my lamp has 3938 hours on it? My wife and I think the picture is getting dimmer - is that possible at that age?

I run it in "Bright" picture mode with the brightness set at 31 (mid-range).

While I am at, if I do replace the lamp - do I have to reset the hour counter?

Tried searching for this with no luck, so here it goes.

Are there any drawbacks to using the digital audio output from the back of the Mits TV...

If I remember correctly, the digital output only does Left and Right.

About your lamp. I replaced mine at 2800 hours. And the hours don't reset. (I taped a note to the back of my entertainment center with the hour count when I replaced it.)

Yes that is the number of hours the lamp has been in use. Mine had 5000 before I noted the pix was dimmer and got a new one to replace it and sure enough brightness was back.

Also, mine is set at at standard

I have a Mitsubishi 73734 using a Harmony 620 remote control which was working well for me. For Christmas I got a Samsung Blu-Ray player - the device when powered on (or when a disk is ejected) automatically switches the TV input to its setting. I don't want any automatic input settings - want this to all be controlled by the Harmony...any suggestions?

I have a Mitsubishi 73734 using a Harmony 620 remote control which was working well for me. For Christmas I got a Samsung Blu-Ray player - the device when powered on (or when a disk is ejected) automatically switches the TV input to its setting. I don't want any automatic input settings - want this to all be controlled by the Harmony...any suggestions?

I've had this same behavior with the 73734 and a Samsung BD-P1500 - it isn't due to the Harmony. There is something in the HDMI connection between the two that causes this. I haven't found a way around this, but I also haven't found it to be an issue either - if I turn on my Blu-Ray I am doing so to watch it.

Yes that is the number of hours the lamp has been in use. Mine had 5000 before I noted the pix was dimmer and got a new one to replace it and sure enough brightness was back.

Also, mine is set at at standard

I have ordered a new lamp as we are now focused on it being darker. We are at roughly 3900 hours on the Bright picture mode. Will see how it looks with the new lamp and take the suggestion of recording the hour count when I replace it.

I have a WD-65734 with a green flashing light.No vidio or audio.I tried a front panel reset and it keeps flashing. I have to pull the power plug to stop it. when i plug it back in it is still flashing. any ideas?

I believe that the flashing light is indicating the bulb has ceased to work.

I'm beginning to hate my TV. I have a 57734 and have recently had the light engine and lamp replaced. It's been a week and now the TV shuts itself off randomly with the "lamp" light flashing amber. If I turn it back on right away it shuts itself off again, so I end up having to wait awhile. Is the new lamp defective or is this some sort of separate heat issue now?

The flashing amber light is usually done when then lamp is cooling. The random shutdown could be due to lamp over heating and shutting down. Make sure you leave lots of room near the lamp area.

I have ordered a new lamp as we are now focused on it being darker. We are at roughly 3900 hours on the Bright picture mode. Will see how it looks with the new lamp and take the suggestion of recording the hour count when I replace it.

Just to follow up, we started noticing a strobe effect on whites, which has been mentioned in this thread. I replaced the lamp and bam no more strobe, and the picture is much brighter - looks as good as the day we got it. Easiest and best "honey do" list item I've done in a long time.

Noticed the same strobe on my set. Replaced the first bulb when it blew along with the ballast at 2400 hours. After 5500 additional hours picture started to dim so changed bulb before it blew. Picture looks as good as new.

I just moved my Md-52628 downstairs. I currently only have the Ps3 "hooked" up to it. Iv tryed for 2 hrs trying to get a picture but the screen remains blue. I plug in my Hdmi and make an HDmi input device, yet still no picture. I also tryed my yellow video cable and no picture if i change that up too. Its worked on this Tv before but I forget what I did. Any help would be appreciated. Btw im not using the component cable slots. im using the input 1 and input 2. (seeing I dont have the 5 wire component)

I just moved my Md-52628 downstairs. I currently only have the Ps3 "hooked" up to it. Iv tryed for 2 hrs trying to get a picture but the screen remains blue. I plug in my Hdmi and make an HDmi input device, yet still no picture. I also tryed my yellow video cable and no picture if i change that up too. Its worked on this Tv before but I forget what I did. Any help would be appreciated. Btw im not using the component cable slots. im using the input 1 and input 2. (seeing I dont have the 5 wire component)

If you can't seem to get any where on this, I would have a tech guy come over and check the system out. They will have the necessary equipment. If all your devices aren't being detected by the TV and they work on other TVs, then there's something going on with the board I would presume. When the board is working as mfr'd, it's should auto detect anything you connect to it. There isn't an option to turn something on to have it detect devices. There all on by default. Let us know how it goes and what happens.

Hi guys, hope I can get a response to this on here as it's been awhile since anyone has posted to this thread it looks like. I have a WD-73734 and I need to know if there is anyway in the service menu that I can change the size of the screen (IE "stretch or shrink it)? The picture shown is slightly too large for the screen no matter what input is being used. (laptop either HDMI through the receiver or HDMI straight to the TV, PS3 through the receiver, etc...). I have no idea what all of the abbreviations in the service menu stand for or mean and I can't seem to find that info anywhere on the net either. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi guys, hope I can get a response to this on here as it's been awhile since anyone has posted to this thread it looks like. I have a WD-73734 and I need to know if there is anyway in the service menu that I can change the size of the screen (IE "stretch or shrink it)? The picture shown is slightly too large for the screen no matter what input is being used. (laptop either HDMI through the receiver or HDMI straight to the TV, PS3 through the receiver, etc...). I have no idea what all of the abbreviations in the service menu stand for or mean and I can't seem to find that info anywhere on the net either. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

There is no adjustment in the service menu for screen size. Computers will always output an image that is larger than the display. You must adjust overscan correction at the source and not at the TV. You can adjust horizontal and vertical position in the service menu.

I have a 65734 and need a new lamp. Is any better than the rest? Any particular place to buy?

Bleh... I just bought a new sony receiver with HDMI switching and apparently this TV doesn't like it... I have to unplug it from the back of the tv every time I turn it off or it doesn't sense the signal properly coming from the receiver...

Anyone know how I might fix this?

Any cure for the approx. 1" wavy band of black, across the top horizontal edge, of the screen?

I have the 73" 60 HRZ model, a few years old.

Bleh... I just bought a new sony receiver with HDMI switching and apparently this TV doesn't like it... I have to unplug it from the back of the tv every time I turn it off or it doesn't sense the signal properly coming from the receiver...

Anyone know how I might fix this?

i'm not exactly sure what hdmi switching does. If it turns on the tv through the hdmi port, I don't think the mits allows that. See if you can disaable hdmi switching for the tv port on your amp. That might solve the problem.

Any cure for the approx. 1" wavy band of black, across the top horizontal edge, of the screen?

I have the 73" 60 HRZ model, a few years old.

sounds like you need to align your screen. Do a search in this threa or check the stickys in the beginning of this thread for a how to.

sounds like you need to align your screen. Do a search in this threa or check the stickys in the beginning of this thread for a how to.


I just did a search of this thred using "align screen" and it only found your responce to my question.

any one know where I can find a SERVICE manual for WD-57734
( I have the owners manual but need the service maual to help fix
the flashing green light problem with the DM Module.

thanks

anyone having a problem with 734 HDMI switching I getting the following message on
my Mitsubishi WD-57734 with my Onyko 897 AV receiver.

Turn on the tv, message appears, superimposed on the the tv program in progress;

“Auto input sensing connection detected for hdmi for a device which may be compatible w/net command. The device is audio system.

Hdmi switching thru the av receiver is not supported, Please connect to tv digital audio out.

Press exit key to watch tv.”

anyone know how to fix this issue?
thanks

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum, but I'm getting very frustrated at my home theatre setup.

I have the WD-73734 and an Onkyo TX-SR805 AV Receiver.

Now, I originaly connected an X-Box 360, Cable Box, and Sony Blu-Ray player to the Receiver via HDMI, and a single HDMI cable from the Receiver to the TV. Also have a Polk Audio Surround sound system. For about 3 years. Worked fine with that setup forever. In the last few months, I started getting a popping noise coming from the TV speakers, even-though the volume is turned all the way down, as I have audio going through the surround sound. I finally figured out that if I press Mute, that solves that problem, but lately, I have also been having a problem with my video. When watching TV, occasionally, the screen will start to flicker, and go completely black, and then display a blue screen a couple of seconds later. Then it will come back on, kind of like it lost the signal from the Cable box or something. But, I can hear the channel just fine through the Surround Sound.

A couple of weeks ago, I got the Red Ring of Death on my 360, so, yesterday, I broke down and bought the new Slim Xbox 360. Took it home, hooked it up, and NOTHING. So, I plugged it up directly to an HDMI port on the TV. The TV detected it, but still didn't display anything. Just a blue screen. I tried even tried using analog. Nothing. So, I brought my Xbox over to my friends house to test it on his TV to see if my TV is messed up, or I got a faulty Xbox. Well, it worked just fine on his TV.

Any suggestions?

I believe my WD-73734 is NOT 3d compatabile and no way to make it so.
Just want to check here to make sure.
Please any comments?
Thanks

Hey Billking

I get the same message when switching with my pioneer VSX-1019 AV receiver. Any luck finding a answer? Mitsubishis idea of factory resetting was useless.

Hey Billking

I get the same message when switching with my pioneer VSX-1019 AV receiver. Any luck finding a answer? Mitsubishis idea of factory resetting was useless.

73734 does not support AV switching

Hey guys, I have a WD65734 that Ive had for 3 yrs..great set no problems or concerns... Til yesterday..I know have a white dot on the screen that never goes away as long as the set is on. I understand from other sites that this is an indication of the DLP chip going bad, no matter if it is one dot or several..
I also understand that Mit suggests replacement of entire light engine instead of just the DPL chip?? Fortunately for me it is still under extended warranty so it wont cost be...if they can get the parts.. How big a deal is this replacement? And since the set is 3 yrs the replacement would probably be with a newer generation chip, wouldn't it? ANd if so would that change the refresh rate from 60 to 120htz?? Now Im waiting for the warranty people to contact me which wont be til Mon or Tues at the earliest..

Thanks... Rickgg46

my MD65734 does this from time to time now.

This is the light engine for the 65734


http://www.tvlampsforless.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=75050&Show=ExtInfo

Well my warranty co finally got a local Co to contact me.. They were coming out tomorrow but called back and said they would just order a new light engine first and then call me.. So they were familiar with the problem of the white dots on the screen and light engine failing.. Said it would take a 5-10 days to get the part... What should I expect them to do other than replace the light engine.... clean mirrors? tweak the set? I read some where that if your going to change light engine you should also clean all the mirrors. It is a pretty reputable service co. in the Daytona Beach area. Also since the set is 3 yrs should I have the lamp replaced now since they will be in there?

Thanks

73734 does not support AV switching

Thanks Mikfort for the answer. Does anyone have a work around for this ? I was thinking a hdmi switcher. Who wants to plug and unplug something everytime you want to view a bluray or play on a PS3 with surround sound?

I just got the 57734 used while I love the TV I'm having one annoying issue. The screen is much brighter when I'm standing looking at it. When I sit down it's dimmer and makes it a bit harder to watch. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong? Thanks guys.

Well my warranty co finally got a local Co to contact me.. They were coming out tomorrow but called back and said they would just order a new light engine first and then call me.. So they were familiar with the problem of the white dots on the screen and light engine failing.. Said it would take a 5-10 days to get the part... What should I expect them to do other than replace the light engine.... clean mirrors? tweak the set? I read some where that if your going to change light engine you should also clean all the mirrors. It is a pretty reputable service co. in the Daytona Beach area. Also since the set is 3 yrs should I have the lamp replaced now since they will be in there?

Thanks

Thanks for this info! I had a white dot appear on my screen tonight and not matter what input I choose, Playstation 3, cable box, or antenna, the white dot will not go away.

I pray to God that my TV is still under warranty! Please report back with any news! Was the problem resolved?

I have searched and searched to find an answer, or even a clue, as to what might be causing my blinking timer light problem.. I have run across lots of info on older Mitsubishi DLP units, but little to nothing on this newer model (Mfg in 2007). Perhaps someone can provide me with some insight on my problem.

When I power the TV on, I hear a relay click from the PWB module and nothing else, aside from the blinking timer light. No picture, no sound...no power to the light engine, the lamp ballast; no fans turning or other relays clicking. Like others on this forum, I am somewhat adept at electronics, so I did take apart the PWB module to see if there were some DM-board capacitors which may be causing this issue, but there is nothing that seems out of the ordinary. I tried playing with the front panel switches to see if I could some error code, to no avail. I get the same result with removing the lamp; if the lamp cover is removed, I do get the blinking lamp LED as expected.

Do these units have the same capacitor issue as the older Mitsubishi DLP models? Perhaps it is another component on the DM module? Have service manual…any assistance is appreciated!

Could be the light engine not starting correctly. I have an older DLP unit and it's been working great accept for the one main board that was changed out due to it causing pixelations in the video a couple of years back. Other than this, it's been good. I would call up MIT and ask directly or contact a local MIT repair dealer or ship and ask. I worry about when these things go out, man it costs to repair them sometimes. I was lucky that mine was under warranty at the end. It's out now. Let us know what they say.


I have searched and searched to find an answer, or even a clue, as to what might be causing my blinking timer light problem.. I have run across lots of info on older Mitsubishi DLP units, but little to nothing on this newer model (Mfg in 2007). Perhaps someone can provide me with some insight on my problem.

When I power the TV on, I hear a relay click from the PWB module and nothing else, aside from the blinking timer light. No picture, no sound...no power to the light engine, the lamp ballast; no fans turning or other relays clicking. Like others on this forum, I am somewhat adept at electronics, so I did take apart the PWB module to see if there were some DM-board capacitors which may be causing this issue, but there is nothing that seems out of the ordinary. I tried playing with the front panel switches to see if I could some error code, to no avail. I get the same result with removing the lamp; if the lamp cover is removed, I do get the blinking lamp LED as expected.

Do these units have the same capacitor issue as the older Mitsubishi DLP models? Perhaps it is another component on the DM module? Have service manual…any assistance is appreciated!

anyone having a problem with 734 HDMI switching I getting the following message on
my Mitsubishi WD-57734 with my Onyko 897 AV receiver.

Turn on the tv, message appears, superimposed on the the tv program in progress;

“Auto input sensing connection detected for hdmi for a device which may be compatible w/net command. The device is audio system.

Hdmi switching thru the av receiver is not supported, Please connect to tv digital audio out.

Press exit key to watch tv.”

anyone know how to fix this issue?
thanks

I know this may be late but here is the fix I found

fix for the WD-65734 HDMI switching problem

I received my firmware update in the mail today. Mitsubishi sent me a usb drive to plug in to the tv and get the latest version for my tv.

I updated and hooked everything back up and has the same results.....after power off the tv would not keep the HDMI input setting, it would change to ANT-1 input and I would have to unhook the HDMI cable and start the installation all over.

Well after a total of about 5 hours on the phone with Mitsubishi over the past few days I fixed the problem in 5 steps

1. turn off tv and unplug all devices from back of tv except power

2. turn tv on and press menu

3. press 1-2-3 on remote

4. select netCommand HDMI control

5. select disable

that is it......turn off tv and plug in your HDMI to receiver then connect your other devices to receiver

when you turn the tv back on it keeps the HDMI setting

whoo hoo :D

I know this may be late but here is the fix I found

fix for the WD-65734 HDMI switching problem

I received my firmware update in the mail today. Mitsubishi sent me a usb drive to plug in to the tv and get the latest version for my tv.

I updated and hooked everything back up and has the same results.....after power off the tv would not keep the HDMI input setting, it would change to ANT-1 input and I would have to unhook the HDMI cable and start the installation all over.

Well after a total of about 5 hours on the phone with Mitsubishi over the past few days I fixed the problem in 5 steps

1. turn off tv and unplug all devices from back of tv except power

2. turn tv on and press menu

3. press 1-2-3 on remote

4. select netCommand HDMI control

5. select disable

that is it......turn off tv and plug in your HDMI to receiver then connect your other devices to receiver

when you turn the tv back on it keeps the HDMI setting

whoo hoo :D


What did the firmware update consist of? After reading your post I called Mits. and the update is being sent to me. The first tech I talked to knew nothing of the update, but someone called me back and said there was indeed an update to fix the AVR switching problem. I can't wait to try it and if it doesn't work I will also try your 5 step method. Can't wait to finally hear some high def audio.

I have searched and searched to find an answer, or even a clue, as to what might be causing my blinking timer light problem.. I have run across lots of info on older Mitsubishi DLP units, but little to nothing on this newer model (Mfg in 2007). Perhaps someone can provide me with some insight on my problem.

When I power the TV on, I hear a relay click from the PWB module and nothing else, aside from the blinking timer light. No picture, no sound...no power to the light engine, the lamp ballast; no fans turning or other relays clicking.

I just had the same problem starting this morning. The Timer light is continuously blinking. The reset button stops the blinking light and clicks a relay inside (sounds like a turn on attempt) but then the blinking resumes and the set never comes on and then a minute later, another click (sounds like a turn off).

The weird coincidental timing in this is that the set was working perfectly fine until today, the day after I did some major rewiring of my system to change my AV receiver to a Denon AVR2809, switching to all HDMI cabling in the process. Previously the TV was plugged into a smart surge protector (watches current draw on a control AC outlet to turn on the rest of the outlets) as the control to turn on an HDMI switchbox. The smart surge protector was plugged into a Monster home theater power filter. As part of the HDMI rewire, I eliminated the HDMI switchbox and the smart surge and plugged the TV directly into the Monster power filter.

Everything was working ok late into the night as I configured the receiver. Once of the last things I did was to turn on HDMI control in the receiver, thinking I would try out that function today, but now the set won't power on. I did unplug the HDMI cable that goes to the TV from the receiver in case something was screwy with that, but that didn't change the blinking timer light problem. I also unplugged the TV from the Monster power filter, let it sit for a few minutes, then plugged it directly into the wall, but no change there either.

Any other suggestions to try before calling for service? It seems too much of a coincidence that it would die the day after changing my receiver.

I have been running on the original lamp since 2008, but if that were the problem, wouldn't the lamp LED light up instead? I do have a 3 year Mack warranty so I should be covered through January of 2011. Has anybody had their set serviced through Mack?

I just had the same problem starting this morning. The Timer light is continuously blinking. The reset button stops the blinking light and clicks a relay inside (sounds like a turn on attempt) but then the blinking resumes and the set never comes on and then a minute later, another click (sounds like a turn off).

If you have someone come and service your unit, please post what the resolution to your problem is. I dont have the benefit of an extended warranty; my set is still non-functional, awaiting my rolling up the sleeves to address it.

Thanks!

If you have someone come and service your unit, please post what the resolution to your problem is. I dont have the benefit of an extended warranty; my set is still non-functional, awaiting my rolling up the sleeves to address it.


Will do. I will watch carefully what is done. Having previously rolled up my sleeves to (unsuccessfully) do capacitor replacements on a 52525 (+ a EE degree), I should be able to understand what is going on pretty well and let you know what they find. My appointment is scheduled for Monday.

I just had the same problem starting this morning. The Timer light is continuously blinking.
...
One of the last things I did was to turn on HDMI control in the receiver and on the TV, thinking I would try out that function today, but now the set won't power on.

Does anybody see any reason that enabling HDMI control on the receiver and tv would lead to the BGLOD?

I am experiencing what I am told is mosquitoing. A friend who is newly certified in calibration and has all the equipment, worked on calibrating my WD-73734 last night. He adjusted 'Video' settings ( contrast...thru sharpness), 'Perfect Color' settings (color and tint) and RGB low temp. gain (probably more).

It had been set to 'Bright' previously (in error) and we set it to Natural picture mode, then made all the adjustments.

I do not recall this movement or noise in medium colored images prior to the calibration. I guess it could be like getting your car back from a mechanic and 'noticing something' you were not aware of before, just because you are more concerned about problems. This video noise is bothersome. It's hard to imagine that it has been like this already.

Any ideas on treating this mosquitoing effect? Ant particular settings to try resetting. I have already tried swapping all I could think of.

I see it via my Panasonic BD-55 BluRay player as well as HD material on my Comcast HD DVR. I run the BD player and the Comcast HD DVr via HDMI through my Denon 1909 AVR, but that has been the case always.


(I tried changing these settings *)

My settings after calibration:
Natural *
Contrast 63
Brightness 18
Color 36
Tint 30 *
Sharpness 31
Color temp low *
Deep field imager off *

Perfect Color
Magenta 25
Red 18
Yellow 12
Green 14
Cyan 21
Blue 31

Perfect Color Tint
Magenta 20
Red 31
Yellow 32
Green 25
Cyan 35
Blue 31

Global
Video noise medium *
Video mute on
Film mode auto
Sharp edge off *
Lamp mode standard

Low temperature Gain
5.GGL 1012
6.GRL 1010
7.GBL 1045

He was disappointed not to see a gamma or luminescence adjustments.

Any insights would be appreciated.

Actually. I am hoping gamma and the ability to adjust luminosity of each of the 3 main and 3 secondary colors 'may be available in via the on screen Service Menu, but we had no idea what the acronyms stood for. He did see in his notes that GRL, GBL and GGL were for low temperature gain, so he adjusted those.

Any idea if gamma and luminescence is adjustable on the WD-73734? I emailed Mitsubishi support. I think they don't like that info loose in the world, so may not tell me (lay person) what the Service Menu can adjust. I did ask my (newly) THX licensed friend to inquire with them also.

Will do. I will watch carefully what is done. Having previously rolled up my sleeves to (unsuccessfully) do capacitor replacements on a 52525 (+ a EE degree), I should be able to understand what is going on pretty well and let you know what they find. My appointment is scheduled for Monday.

Update on what is going on. Paul's TV came and the tech basically just asked if the bulb light was on and when he saw that it wasn't and I said that I'd already tried changing the bulb, he said he had to take it in. Said that it was common for surface mount capacitors to go bad and those weren't as obvious as the cylindrical electrolytic ones.

After a week, I called in for a status update and they said that one of the "main PCBs" needed to be replaced and the warranty company was supposed to decide on board replacement vs. new TV set. I guess they decided on board replacement and supposed I'll have it back next week.

When they are done, I'll try calling and asking the actual tech person which exact board and what specifically was wrong with it to get more info to post here, but it doesn't sound like they went down to component level debugging on my set.

well We still have this TV and after posting about my mnay issues with picture quality most of it ended up being the condo units wiring. We did have the light engine replaced for a hesitation issue and main board because we got lines on the screen. ever since 2007 we have been on the original bulb now with over 12k hours on it. Looking for a replacement bulb to buy any suggestions for those who have replaced theirs?

My 3 yr old WD57734 blew its second bulb at 11,500 hours of use. Replaced with new and it lasted about 10 hours and now has failed lamp lit and horrible smell from back of unit. I tried to remove bulb assembly and it won't come out. Looks like the wire connection is melted. Any ideas anyone?
Of course my extended warranty ended about one month ago.

My 3 yr old WD57734 blew its second bulb at 11,500 hours of use. Replaced with new and it lasted about 10 hours and now has failed lamp lit and horrible smell from back of unit. I tried to remove bulb assembly and it won't come out. Looks like the wire connection is melted. Any ideas anyone?
Of course my extended warranty ended about one month ago.

sounds like the lamp shorted out and caused a massive current draw that melted the connection. beyond that, there is probably damage to the power supply and other parts that sourced the current for the lamp.

was the new bulb a mitsubishi brand? and did you change the whole assembly or just the lamp?

Yes it was a Mitsubishi replacement. The whole assembly was replaced. Very simple to do but apparently horrid results.
Sad thing is I got the bulb right at the end of my 3 year extended warranty. It took two weeks to get the bulb as it was on back order. Now I'm wondering if I'll get any warranty relief. I think it's suspicious that this happened just hours after the bulb was changed. Seems like something to do with the bulb.

Hey everyone, is there a way to reset the lamp hours once a new lamp is installed? I have a new housing that I will be installing shortly and was curious.

The *734s allow the inputs to be assigned names from the setup menu. For most of the inputs the options are "Cable Box, Camcorder, DVD, DVD2, DVR, Game, HD Disc, Satellite, VCR, PC, On/Off (ANT 1/ ANT 2 only) and Off (HDMI only).

For some reason, my HDMI-1 input only allows the choices of "DVD" and "Off".
I found that if there is active video connected to HDMI-1 it will not change the name at all. When I unplug the input, I can change between "DVD" and "Off".

Does anybody know how to work around this? I would like to connect my DVR to HDMI-1 and give it the right label.

Update on what is going on. Paul's TV came and the tech basically just asked if the bulb light was on and when he saw that it wasn't and I said that I'd already tried changing the bulb, he said he had to take it in. Said that it was common for surface mount capacitors to go bad and those weren't as obvious as the cylindrical electrolytic ones.

After a week, I called in for a status update and they said that one of the "main PCBs" needed to be replaced and the warranty company was supposed to decide on board replacement vs. new TV set. I guess they decided on board replacement and supposed I'll have it back next week.

When they are done, I'll try calling and asking the actual tech person which exact board and what specifically was wrong with it to get more info to post here, but it doesn't sound like they went down to component level debugging on my set.

Got my TV back and it is working fine. I called back into the shop to ask for details as to what was wrong and how they fixed it but all they could tell me was that they replaced the "Main PCB," which he distinguished from the FMT PWR and other boards inside. He said that when they do a warranty fix, they don't spend the time to go to component level debug and just replace the whole board, which costs $200-300. He did say that these TV's still have capacitor problems all the time, but could not say whether this was the problem in this case. He also said that the blinking-green-light-of-death has multiple causes so this case couldn't really be generalized.

So, that's the final update on this problem. Sorry it isn't more helpful to others out there.

Thought I would mention my experience with no picture and flashing green light.

After the usual checks via the manual I concluded there was something seriously wrong and called the warranty company. (5 year warrant purchased 31/2 years ago)

They suggested I change the lamp and sent me a new one. I did not belive that this was the problem via the manual info and it wasn't. Took 5 days to get bulb. Changed it myself.

Called again, they set up an appointment for 5 days later. Tech arrived looked at it and in 10 minutes said main board was bad and he would order one. Suggested I call after new years to see if they had it yet. About 8 days later I called them and yes they had it.

Another appointment 4 days later and tech arrived and installed board in about an hour and a half.

Finally my tv came back on and boy did that pix look huge again. (73").

Total cost if I hadn't bought the $500 warranty would have been $750 plus a lamp I had gotten off them before at about $150 or so far about $900. Wheww! Glad I bought that warranty

This is the first electronic warranty I ever bought. I usually don't believe in them. However, DLP type tv worried me.

Anyhow, hope this is useful

Thought I would mention my experience with no picture and flashing green light.

After the usual checks via the manual I concluded there was something seriously wrong and called the warranty company. (5 year warrant purchased 31/2 years ago)

They suggested I change the lamp and sent me a new one. I did not belive that this was the problem via the manual info and it wasn't. Took 5 days to get bulb. Changed it myself.

Called again, they set up an appointment for 5 days later. Tech arrived looked at it and in 10 minutes said main board was bad and he would order one. Suggested I call after new years to see if they had it yet. About 8 days later I called them and yes they had it.

Another appointment 4 days later and tech arrived and installed board in about an hour and a half.

Finally my tv came back on and boy did that pix look huge again. (73").

Total cost if I hadn't bought the $500 warranty would have been $750 plus a lamp I had gotten off them before at about $150 or so far about $900. Wheww! Glad I bought that warranty

This is the first electronic warranty I ever bought. I usually don't believe in them. However, DLP type tv worried me.

Anyhow, hope this is useful

Wow, that is pretty much exactly my experience and what happened to my TV and the fix, etc.

Which warranty company are you using?

This really makes me wonder if there will be a rash of these problems with this set (already seems like a mini-rash).

People always say that DLP is less reliable but, if you think about the problems that Mitsubishi's have been having, most of them are not with the DLP portion, but with the electronics, which shouldn't be notably different on a physical level from the electronics in a LCD or plasma really. Is this just a Mitsubishi manufacturing reliability problem? The sets seem solid for at least 3 years.

My cousin has a Mitsubishi 73734 tv he purchased new about 3 years ago. He replaced the bulb about 3-4 months ago. Recently he is having a problem where there are 15 plus black dots randomly across his screen and about 5 white dots. He called Mitsubishi support and he could not get a direct answer out of them. Any thoughts as to what could be the problem? Thanks.

Hello,

I am having trouble deciding where to by my replacement bulb and if I need the housing. It is a Mitsubishi model wd-y657. Would anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction for cheap and reliable bulb sales and if a new housing is recommended, thank you.

John M.

Everyone, just found this forum.

I am having a frustrating issue with my Mitsubishi TV WD-73734.

Now for the history.

We’ve had the TV since 2007 and have not had a single problem with it until recently it’s a wonderful TV with great picture and Blu-ray is stunning. December the lamp went out. So I got a new lamp with housing. Put that in and everything worked for about 10 days. Then when powering up the TV there was an arcing sound and the connector plug on the lamp housing melted to the plug on the ballast connector. After about an hour of delicate work I got the housing out and cleaned up the ballast connector which was damaged but still usable. I even took the connector off of the original lamp housing and installed it on the new lamp housing and everything worked fine again, picture looked good and everything seemed to run fine. Not wanting to take any chances I switched back the connectors and contacted the company I got the lamp from. They sent me a new complete lamp and offered me a new ballast. They ended up not having the correct ballast in stock so they had me send in my ballast to them for refurbishment. After they got mine they said it didn’t pass QC after it was refurbished. So they shipped me a replacement ballast they say they ordered from another company since they didn’t have any in stock. I installed the ballast and the new lamp.

Here is what the TV does. It will power up and the picture will appear. The picture looks good for a few seconds and then it starts to have a flicker to it which gets worse. Than after about 30 seconds the TV shuts down, showing the red lamp LED error on the front of the TV. I’ve got a short video of the flicker of the image and the shutting down of the set, (It won't let me attach the link, if you want to see it e-mail me and i'll send the link to you.) You can restart the TV and after 20 to 30 seconds of picture with flicker the TV shuts down again.

The company says it couldn’t be the ballast or the lamp, they said to reset the lamp timer and they are checking with their techs to see it there is anything else it could be. (I have not been able to find any info about a lamp timer on the 73734's on line or in the manual.)

I’ve done system resets on it and also reset it back to factory but that didn’t help, it still shuts off after 30 seconds.

I got a lamp and housing from a friend who has the same the same compatible lamp unit that we know works fine and it does the same thing, has the flicker and shuts down after 30 seconds.

I checked the error codes and it gives me a #34 code on both lamps.

My thoughts are could the ballast be causing this and faulting the system making it think it’s a lamp problem or is there something besides a ballast that could cause this.

Any help would be great. Getting frustrated with not being able to get the TV back up and running after it started out as a simple lamp change.

Akaindy
akaindy@yahoo.com

Hello everyone. On my WD-73734, I just changed my lamp after 12,000 hours on the original. I am not sure this is a problem... but when I turn on the TV, it takes the usual 15-20 seconds for the picture to appear. With the original bulb, the picture would come on at full brightness. Now the picture comes on very dim, but after about 30 seconds it gets to full brightness. Once it is at full brightness, there are no issues at all. Any ideas??

Thank you in advance.

Mine does the same thing after a recent bulb replacement. I changed the entire unit not just the bulb.

Wondering if they added some circuit to purposely make it due that to increase bulb life?

On my 65734 i just recently changed the bulb/cartridge out also. This new bulb doesn't seem as bright to me. It's not an OEM bulb/cartridge. I turned up some of the brightness settings and that seems to have helped.

I don't know if I had an exceptional bulb when I first bought this tv but I gotta tell ya, the picture was the most brilliant and saturated i had ever seen....its the reason i bought the tv.

Now, 4 yrs later, it just seems ok. Do these things fall out of calibration after awhile? Is there an interior cleaning sticky somewhere?

overthehill.
I too replaced the entire lamp and housing. I called the place I bought the bulb from, and he said that it could be the ballast is weaker and it can't handle the new lamp as efficiently . He said that I may need to replace the balast at some time in the future, but not to worry about it now. The support at Mits told me that it was common to experience this behavior with a new lamp and not to worry. I did notice when I put the new housing in, that I didn't feel a "pop" when it was in all the way. Seems the original seated in better. I wonder if it isn't making a full connection. I will try taking the new one out and put the old one in and see if there is a "pop"

It would be nice if someone could figure this out.

Xalky,
My new lamp is as bright as the original. I bought a Philips replacement. Supposedly, Philips is a brighter, better bulb.

I had a hard time getting the new housing to click in... I'm not sure it actually did clip in properly. I was happy to get the retaining screw back in. I'm gonna check it out.

Thanks

I just had the same problem starting this morning. The Timer light is continuously blinking. The reset button stops the blinking light and clicks a relay inside (sounds like a turn on attempt) but then the blinking resumes and the set never comes on and then a minute later, another click (sounds like a turn off).

The weird coincidental timing in this is that the set was working perfectly fine until today, the day after I did some major rewiring of my system to change my AV receiver to a Denon AVR2809, switching to all HDMI cabling in the process. ...

Everything was working ok late into the night as I configured the receiver. Once of the last things I did was to turn on HDMI control in the receiver, thinking I would try out that function today, but now the set won't power on. I did unplug the HDMI cable that goes to the TV from the receiver in case something was screwy with that, but that didn't change the blinking timer light problem. I also unplugged the TV from the Monster power filter, let it sit for a few minutes, then plugged it directly into the wall, but no change there either.

Any other suggestions to try before calling for service? It seems too much of a coincidence that it would die the day after changing my receiver.

I have been running on the original lamp since 2008, but if that were the problem, wouldn't the lamp LED light up instead? I do have a 3 year Mack warranty so I should be covered through January of 2011. Has anybody had their set serviced through Mack?

Quoting myself from my November 2010 post.

The strangest thing just happened again. Last time, I got a Denon HDMI receiver and hooked things up, did config, viewing and listening tests just fine. Turned everything off and the next day, the TV is dead with blinking timer light. After getting the unit repaired for Main PCB replacement, the set has been working perfect with that Denon receiver since then.

Last night, I got a Onkyo SR705 HDMI receiver (for my sister) and hooked it up for testing. Just did direct transplants of the cables from the Denon: speaker wires and HDMI cables. Did basic viewing and listening tests over the course of the evening and into the late morning. Turned everything off and the next day, the TV is dead with blinking timer light.

I think this is more than coincidence this time. Two different receivers, two different models and brands, exact same scenario and timing. Mitsubishi's consumer line claims there is no tech support departement available and just refers me to authorized service centers. The service centers aren't really interested in investigating and just swap parts until it works again. Is there any actual tech support at Mitsubishi?

But I can't do this every time I change receivers! There must be some explanation for why this has happened. Is it possible that something on the HDMI line blows up something on Main PCB? Is there some sort of config issue that would explain this?

Had a problem with bright white spots showing up on the screen all the time.

Called the ext.warranty people and they came out and said it was the "DLP Chip". They had to take to shop. Had it a week. Returned yesterday. Works great - no more spots.

Well, after 4 years the lamp in my WD-Y657 died, so I am on the market for a replacement! I went to the Mitsubishi site and looked up the part (915P061010), but I'm not really trying to spend over $250 for a bulb when there are others going for under $100, but which ones are the most reliable?

1) Does WD-73734 support 24P?

Just hooking up a new Panasonic BD player (DMP-BDT110). In BD Set Up under 24P Output On or Off. It says Setting should be set to "ON" when connected to a TV supporting 24P with an HDMI cable.

(BD player is HDMI to Denon 1909 AVR. Then HDMI from AVR to WD-73734)

2) In BD Set Up under HDMI Connection/ HDMI Resolution: Should I set to 1080P or Auto? (Choices are: Auto, 480P, 720P, 1080i, 1080P)

Thank you.

I would as the Mfr of the Player what 24P is. I've never heard of that.
However you could try it Enable and see then disable it and see.

My player is set up for Auto to let the player handle the processing. The TV will automatically pick it up to what ever the mode the player is out putting.

Ask and find out from Panasonic. Keep us posted.

1. 24p mean 24 progressive video frames per second. All Blu-ray 1080p movies are also 24p in the native format. Movies made for the Theater are also 24 frames per second.
2. No TV shows video in 24 frames per second because there would be major flickering. Even in movie theaters, they double or triple flash every frame becasue of flicker at a native 24 frames per second.
3. Since all TVs will show this original 24p at a faster frame rate, the original video needs to be converted to the faster rate someplace. In the Blu-ray player, when 24p is not turned on, the player is converting this to 60p or 60i. Or in the TV, there are several different methods that different TV brands use - that is part of the competition between the brands.
4. The Mitsubishi TV displays all signals at 60 frames per second (60p) which is further refined to 120 sub-frames per second. This means that 24p needs to be converted to 60p someplace.
5. The Mitsubsihi TV does support 24p signals which means the TV can convert the video to 60p internally. Your Blu-ray can also convert the signal to 60p.
6. Try it both ways as use the one that looks best to you, however be aware that you may not be able to a difference between them as they very will can be equal in quality.

Dead Pixels??

My 65" Mits DLP has been working flawlessly for the past few years. It has almost 14,000 hours of operation logged. A month ago a black spot (#1) appeared on my screen. Once it appeared, it was always there.

http://www.nuttybuddy.net/pixel1.JPG

The spot, up close, looks to be 2 side-by-side rectangles staggered diagnally. The photo makes them look diamond shaped, but to my eye they look horizontally rectangular.

http://www.nuttybuddy.net/pixel2.JPG

I pulled off the front screen to look for dead bugs or dirt. The inside of the screen, the mirror and the lens were clear. The black spot was being projected from inside the lens. I also check the lamp and cleaned inside the lamp housing, they checked out OK. The spot is apparently internal.

Friday, another permanent spot appeared (#2). It is shaped exactly as the first.

Another thing I have noticed in the upper right of the screen is a fixed small twinkling white star when black images are in that spot. It almost appears to flash in intensity like a hard drive light. As the image in that area lightens it goes totally away. Only very dark images get it going. Unlike the two black spots, this star effect does not always happen. It went away completely for a couple of weeks, then returned a week ago, but now is gone again.

Are these all DLP pixel issues that only a major repair would fix? Is my beloved Mits beginning to fail?

Funny, after reading your post from the other day, Just tonite our 73" DLP has one lone white dot now showing on a black screen and when the TV is turning off and on. Had the TV since about 06-07. Only replaced the main board once as it was not replicating pixels correctly. Fix that issue back then. The white dot is persistent thru the color changes on our TV. Found the code to check status....6301 hours. I presume this pixel problem is a issue with the DLP module and not the bulb. I suppose I'll call a svc center and find out.

I'm currently researching this information. If seems to be related to the DLP chip. I think we have been pretty lucky on the time used before we have seen pixel issues like others. Might be a fairly cheaper way to go if changing out the chip is easy.


http://www.highdefforum.com/rear-projection-tvs/124717-mitsubishi-wd-c657-dlp-has-white-spots-screen.html
http://support.mitsubishi-tv.com/parts
http://www.tvlampsforless.com/Mitsubishi_Chips_IC_s/52.htm

I'm currently researching this information. If seems to be related to the DLP chip. I think we have been pretty lucky on the time used before we have seen pixel issues like others. Might be a fairly cheaper way to go if changing out the chip is easy.


http://www.highdefforum.com/rear-projection-tvs/124717-mitsubishi-wd-c657-dlp-has-white-spots-screen.html
http://support.mitsubishi-tv.com/parts
http://www.tvlampsforless.com/Mitsubishi_Chips_IC_s/52.htm

I came across those $300 DLP chips a couple of days ago. Yesterday, I went to a local authorized Mitsubishi service center to find out the cost of the chip replacement. Rather than tell me the cost, the tech insisted that a bad pixel would not be black, but rather white and thus the chip was not the issue. I was told it would be $75 just to come out and inspect the set for an estimate. I felt I was being scammed and left since my research showed bad pixels could be black or white. I feared they would come out and tell me the whole light engine would have to be replaced, which I would never have done, and be out $75.

Right after my picture post above, I started getting a new constant bright white pixel about 5" to the right of #2 and in direct line from #1. It only showed up at first on completely black screens, like when changing inputs. Yesterday it was lightly present, off and on, during normal viewing. Seems to be spreading like a virus.

To replace a DLP chip, you need to remove the light engine from the set and dismantel some of it to access the chip. I found a couple of videos on youtube, one on light engine removal and the other on DLP chip replacement.

This one on Mitsubishi light engine removal is in 4 parts is is done somewhat haphazardly, but gives you a good idea of the steps required:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWpggk2iMjI

This one shows whats involved in getting to and replacing the DLP chip once the light engine is removed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyAykjZ3zs4

After viewing the videos, I am hesitant on taking on the task myself, but it looks pretty straightforward. I'll probably just settle for a new TV with all the new bells and whistles, like internet, networking and 3D.

After doing some research my self and calling my local repair shop, they kind of elated to the same thing, they didn't see much of these problems however said that they are mostly due to the Chip or the Light Wheel. I asked about if they could give me a ball park figure. Said that if it's the LE that it's not worth fixing as "they" couldn't really get any new LE's anymore. Said that it would be a $85 house call to look. I only have one dot right now. He said to unplug the TV for 2 hours and let it sit then try again.

I did find this group out of TX:
http://www.hdtvexpressservices.com/index.php?pr=MITSUBISHI_WHITE_DOTS_REPAIR_PROGRAM

Might be worth checking into. For what we paid for ours, alittle over 2k and it has been working great up to this point. Might be worth a re-build if it lasts. I sent off a message to them to see what they recommend. Even at $300 for what I also found for a chip and we need a bulb soon. Might be worth to have someone rebuild the LE.

I think one thing that doesn't help the LEs and such is the dust factor. I think the dust gets in some how and causes this to happen. I'm going to take mine out this weekend and lightly dust it and see what I can see. It's not bad now so will see later on I guess. I'll figure out if a rebuild is recommended or DIY.

That 2nd video I has been looking for to see how the Chip was actually replaced. Now I know. Looks fairly easy, mostly connectors and screws where you need to remember where they go. Hmmm. Will have to see. Only thing, is there any turn on or configuration of the TV after the chip is replaced?

I am going to do some light dusting anyways. Doesn't hurt.

Wow, Just called these guys:
http://www.hdtvexpressservices.com/index.php?pr=CONTACT_US

And talked to them about the white dot issue. Said that the white dot problem is cured by replacing the Chip. I asked if there were any setup or configuration needed after replacing and he said not usually. He said that sometimes he's seen alignment issues one the video after someone has replaced the chip and that was mainly due to the mishandling of the LE and improper handling of it. So they had to go in and re-align it. Other then that, the replacement of the chip is straight forward and the TV should be like new. The connectors are all labeled an no two are alike so you can't plug a connector into a wrong jack.

The guy was Latin and kind of hard to understand however he seemed very knowledgeable and forth coming about his information and very willing to help out. Said that if I were to get a chip from them that I could call anytime and ask for his help if needed. I'm impressed. To bad OEMs can't be more like that. :rolleyes:

I would also vacuum out the LE engine adn the surrounding area with a light suction vacuum too to get the dust out while your at it. I use a gentle long hair paint brushes on my computer repairs to get dust out before I work on them. Would be good here too I think.

I think this would be a good option for those wanting to try this and keep there units going.

Thanks for the info! Three new small white twinkling stars made an appearance last night. Man, when these things go, they go fast.

Wow, that HDTV Express Services has a rebuilt engine for my set, WDY-657 with a new chip!
http://www.hdtvexpressservices.com/index.php?pr=Mitsubishi_optical_engine

With $100 trade-in sounds like a better deal than a $300 chip alone.

Also FYI, one of the guys on the HDforum.com site mentioned that he's waiting on a reply from MIT themselves. Seems that MIT might be helping those who ask with this problem. I'm waiting on phone numbers to use. They said that we should call and ask. Even units that are out of warranty. Looks like this one guy got his chip replaced with help from MIT. Guess we should call and ask.

MIT support number: 1-800-332-2119

MIT returned my call today from Monday or Tuesday, can't remember. Anyways, they offered me parts and no labor. They asked if had any thoughts, I counter offered to pay half labor. The guy put me on hold for about 3 minutes and came back and agreed to those terms. I got a case # too. There sending and email to my local authorized repair shop and should be a call from them soon. They'll come to the house and fix it. Total cost is just a tad over $100. Hard to beat that for a 2007 unit that way out of warranty that we paid a little over $2000 for. :eek:

Thank you MIT for stepping up. We'll be back again. :)

Let us know now others experiences are with this problem. ;)

Just change my first bulb today 8708 hours.


235660

My TV is getting fixed tomorrow. Woo hoo.

Mitsu sent out a repair tech who installed a new DLP chip. I agreed to pay the $225 labor, free part. This on a 73" set 2 weeks short of 4 years old.

Looks great. 8000 hours on the original bulb.