So I need a remote extender. I got this and I think I wasted my money: http://www.amazon.com/RCA-Remote-Control-Signal-Sender/dp/B00009W3AU

The base unit is in the basement. The extender unit is up one floor and thru a wall, maybe 40 feet. It just plain doesn't work 90% of the time. If I take the extender down in the basement to an adjacent room it works great. Take it back upstair and notta.

Any advice for something that will work? I have a FTA satellite receiver (Fortec Mercury II) that I am trying to control remotely.

Thanks!

I have been trying to research this topic also, but information is sketchy for those of us who do not want to spend $100s on our controls. I did check the reviews on that device on Amazon and they are actually quite positive (4 stars average from 12 reviews, same thing on newegg.com and buy.com). It could be that you are just experiencing the same problems as frequently occur with internet wireless - a bit patchy at times, but whereas intermittently waiting 10 to 30 seconds for an internet page to load might be acceptable, that won't work for changing channel on the TV or skipping through commercials on your recordings!

I would be interested to see if anyone can shed any light on the quality of the extenders you bought, otherwise, I have been looking at these, but they do not convert the signal to RF for going through walls so may not suit your situation:

http://www.hot-link.com/

Anyone with any experience of either got any input to add?!

I bought the Jensen one from FutureShop and I have the cable box in the basement and the TV upstairs (2 floors) and it works great, only problem I can't alway get the reciever to see my remote.

I would like a wired version if I could then I can just put the box in the wall and run a small eye to the ceiling.


Matt

I just bought this strange product from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B000C1Z0HA/102-0611040-4566523?SubscriptionId=1S1QP3P6YEXE7922YMG2

Surprisingly, so far it has worked 100% of the time from every part of my house (3 floors, 2100 sq feet). However, I use it for my bedroom setup, which only consists of a Plasma and a STB.

This may seeem obvious but could be worth stating. RF waves work in certain directions and not others. Have you tried ALL positions for your basestation. The reason I ask is i hav had them not work in certain situations and as soon as i move them to a "more" parculiar position they work great.
Make sure you play around lots before spending money.

I just bought this strange product from Amazon:
...
The reviews for that thing are amazing! What happens to the remote with one less battery though? I suppose this also means that it will only work in units with AAA batteries? Intriguing just the same ...

The reviews for that thing are amazing! What happens to the remote with one less battery though? I suppose this also means that it will only work in units with AAA batteries? Intriguing just the same ...

It works with both AA and AAA batteries. You simply replace one of your existing batteries with one of theirs. They actually give you 2 batteries, so one can be charged (charger is built into base) and ready to go at all times.

The reviews for that thing are amazing! What happens to the remote with one less battery though? I suppose this also means that it will only work in units with AAA batteries? Intriguing just the same ...
It has a rechargeable half size battery so that it and the transmitter fits in the space of a AAA battery. In fact it comes with two so that one is being recharged in the base unit while the other is being used.
It also comes with a AA battery size sleeve so that it can be used on remotes using AA batteries as well.
I've heard it used to have problems with Harmony remotes, but I think they've fixed that now.

The reviews for that thing are amazing! ...
I have both kits (the 418MHz and the 433MHz) controlling two different systems and they really are amazing.

the NGHP extender from amazon looks like it may be the ticket for me. How many IR repeaters can it support?

This has been a sore subject for me. I initially bought a Jensen set from the nearest Best Buy to me - some 50 miles away. It didn't work at all so it went back. I assume that set was defective.

Next up was a Radio Shack set. This sort of works. The IR emitter is in the theater in the basement about 4 feet from the Motorola cable DVR. The receiver is upstairs on top of my rear projection HD set. It usually works, but sometimes I have to be within five feet or so of the receiver before the transmitter controls the DVR. Other times it works reliably from across the room. Moving the downstairs unit around just a few inches makes a big difference in performance. The Motorola DVR is rather touchy even when operated directly with it's own remote, but the extender makes this even worse.

Downstairs in the theater my equipment rack is behind the seating so to avoid having to point remotes over my shoulder I have a second receiver unit in the front of the room. That is also very tricky. It works well one day but not the next. Moving the unit around helps sometimes but not consistently.

Interestingly my dealer tells me all of these units are based on the same X10 standard and brands should be interchangeable. I'm using a Jensen receiver with the original Radio Shack set and it works better than the Radio Shack receiver did. He also gave me a Terk IR Emitter to test - but it doesn't work at all with the other units, so I'm guessing Terk is playing by different rules.

I'd love to find a good solid performing system - even if it cost a few bucks more.

I'd love to find a good solid performing system - even if it cost a few bucks more.
Based on my experience (I've never tried the Jensen) I'd rate them in the following order:

1) Radio Shack unit > Fair to pretty good

2) Terk Leapfrog > Good to very good

3) NGHP (http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B000C1Z0HA/102-0611040-4566523?SubscriptionId=1S1QP3P6YEXE7922YMG2) > Excellent

Also, based on my experience, I have a Terk Leapfrog transmitter that can talk to an 'old style' Radio Shack receiver that looks like this one (http://www.smarthome.com/8210.html) but I haven't been able to get the Terk to communicate with the 'new style' Radio Shack receiver. (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049642&cp=&sr=1&origkw=remote+extender&kw=remote+extender&parentPage=search)

the NGHP extender from amazon looks like it may be the ticket for me. How many IR repeaters can it support?

I second that question - looks like a great product.

They also have a triple IR mouse emitter - I've never seen an emitter that had more than 2 outputs. Does that work with any system?

Finally, how would this work with the Harmony remote? I assume the Harmony charging station would also charge the 1.5v mini battery?

I second that question - looks like a great product.

They also have a triple IR mouse emitter - I've never seen an emitter that had more than 2 outputs. Does that work with any system?

Finally, how would this work with the Harmony remote? I assume the Harmony charging station would also charge the 1.5v mini battery?
I don't have a Harmony remote nor do I use the triple emitter.... these FAQS (http://www.nextgenerationhomeproducts.com/1231196.html) may help answer some of your questions. Also, I've always received a quick reply when contacting NGHP with questions.

I don't have a Harmony remote nor do I use the triple emitter.... these FAQS (http://www.nextgenerationhomeproducts.com/1231196.html) may help answer some of your questions. Also, I've always received a quick reply when contacting NGHP with questions.

Thanks for the link - this answer makes no sense....

What is the triple IR emitter for?
You would need a triple IR emitter if you are going to convert more than one remote and you would like to keep the cabinet or closet doors closed. It is one cord that branches out to three cords with an emitter at the end of it. One IR emitter would be placed in front of each device you wish to control with the NGHP RF transmitter.

They are presenting the product as if each remote is replacing one other remote - a 1 for 1 swap. That makes no sense, unless your ONLY objective is to convert an IR remote that controls one device to an RF remote. If you are looking for a Universal remote to control all or your components, usually you're looking at at least 3 components in even the most basic HT systems that have a cable/sat box, DVD player, A/V receiver. The answer to the question, it appears, should be that the triple emitter is used for the base unit to be able to control 3 components. This leads me to believe that the base station has only one output for an IR emitter, which greatly reduces it's viability for most HT and multi-room setups.

I'd still like to know if that triple emitter would work with a Harmony, Universal, or Xantech base - no reason to think it wouldn't - and a triple emitter would allow, say, the Harmony 890 to control 12 devices via RF, rather than 8 with the dual emitters it comes with.

the NGHP extender from amazon looks like it may be the ticket for me. How many IR repeaters can it support?

Found an answer to that question - I saw a photo of the back of the unit and there is only space for one emitter. That limits the usefulness of the product somewhat. I'm not saying it's not a great product, just that it can't really target a Univeral Remote crowd if you can only control 3 components. yes, perhaps you could daisy-chain units together, but at that point, your economics get closer to you just being better off getting an RF remote. For example, the difference between a Harmony 880 and 890 is about $150-$200. If this product allowed you to buy the 880 and use it as an RF remote, that would be huge - but since it only supports one triple-emitter, it's applications become limited. The only work-around would be to buy another base, but again, to get up to 9 devices, now your option to get the 880 isn't really cheaper, and it requires more space since you need 3 bases.

I also wonder if the relacement of a battery with the 1.5v and RF transmitter would diminish the performance of the remote - in that you would need to charge it more frequently, and how much more frequently.

Also interesting that this unit does not work with Universal Remote Inc. units, like the MX-500 and up.

So, I think this product has it's place, but not for the Harmony 880 or Universal MX-... crowd.

I would be very interested to try that triple eye emitter - I've never seen any emitters that had more than two eyes. That could really make remotes like the 890 even more useful.

Thanks for the link - this answer makes no sense....

What is the triple IR emitter for?
You would need a triple IR emitter if you are going to convert more than one remote and you would like to keep the cabinet or closet doors closed. It is one cord that branches out to three cords with an emitter at the end of it. One IR emitter would be placed in front of each device you wish to control with the NGHP RF transmitter.
I thought the same thing when I read that but thought maybe I was missing something.....apparently not though.

The answer to the question, it appears, should be that the triple emitter is used for the base unit to be able to control 3 components. This leads me to believe that the base station has only one output for an IR emitter, which greatly reduces it's viability for most HT and multi-room setups.
Well, if you can place the receiver so that it can see the IR sensors of all the components you're trying to control, you wouldn't need an emitter at all (this is how I have mine set up). I'll assume you're aware of this and that your set-up won't allow you to place your receiver in such a way.

I'd still like to know if that triple emitter would work with a Harmony, Universal, or Xantech base - no reason to think it wouldn't - and a triple emitter would allow, say, the Harmony 890 to control 12 devices via RF, rather than 8 with the dual emitters it comes with.
As long as the plug is the same size, I would think this would be possible.

Found an answer to that question - I saw a photo of the back of the unit and there is only space for one emitter.
Being the owner of two of these I could have answered that for you guys but somehow missed the question....sorry about that.

That limits the usefulness of the product somewhat. I'm not saying it's not a great product, just that it can't really target a Univeral Remote crowd if you can only control 3 components.....
Again, if you can place the receiver where it could flash all of your components without using emitters, problem solved.....I realize though that placement may not be the same in your set-up.

I also wonder if the relacement of a battery with the 1.5v and RF transmitter would diminish the performance of the remote - in that you would need to charge it more frequently, and how much more frequently.
One of mine has been going for ~5 months now without requiring a charge.

Also interesting that this unit does not work with Universal Remote Inc. units, like the MX-500 and up.
Although I own a HTM MX-500 I haven't tried the NGHP remote extender with it....I am using it, however, with the URC-8820 (One-For-All) without any issues.

Again, if you can place the receiver where it could flash all of your components without using emitters, problem solved.....I realize though that placement may not be the same in your set-up.

I guess it would be possible for me, but I'm skeptical of how effective it would be vs. just having an emitter right on the component's sensor. I've been spoiled by the Xantech Hidden Link system I've been using for IR - and it's like the components are right there in the room with me. I don't think I've had a delay in 6 months. I get concerned when the signal isn't right there - some components are pretty finicky.


One of mine has been going for ~5 months now without requiring a charge.

That's pretty amazing. How long is the stated life of the remote? Harmony's claim they can go a week without a charge.


Although I own a HTM MX-500 I haven't tried the NGHP remote extender with it....I am using it, however, with the URC-8820 (One-For-All) without any issues.

I took this off of the HDTVsupply.com website - I have no idea if it's true or not, but it's what they claim...

Note 2: This device does not work with Universal Remote Inc series of remote controls, like the MX-500, MX-700, etc.

So, I would deduce from this that the Universal products don't work at the frequencies of the NGHP transmitter.

I've been looking at these in case I need one...from what I can tell there are a few different ways they do it.

a. Some have ribbon cables with emitters on the back that you attach to each component you want to control.

b. Others, you have to buy an individual emitter box for each component you want to control.

c. This last type looks like it will emit the signal to an entire area (equipment rack) so you can control multiple components from one receiver/emitter set. This is what it looks like -
http://www.smarthomeusa.com/Shop/MultiRoom-Audio/X10Pro-Infrared/Item/PEX01/

Anyone have experience with this one?

I'd definately try different antenne angles on the base unit. RF signals are directional which is why cloud cover, mountains, buildings, effect signals. Its not as noticable with FM, but AM and HAM/CB operators know all about it.
I'll be getting some remote extenders shortly as well so I'll get to do some testing as well.

Evan

I think I am going to try the NGHP unit.

If all else fails i will buy a second reciever, then i can have 6 components.

http://www.smarthome.com/8045ir.html

c. This last type looks like it will emit the signal to an entire area (equipment rack) so you can control multiple components from one receiver/emitter set. This is what it looks like -
http://www.smarthomeusa.com/Shop/MultiRoom-Audio/X10Pro-Infrared/Item/PEX01/

Anyone have experience with this one?

This isn't really unique - most RF bases have an IR blaster incorporated in them, so that if it's possible for you to point the base at the equipment being controlled, you don't really need an emitter. The option of having emitters, however, is a nice one because it's essentially fool-proof (assuming the RF signal gets to the base cleanly), since the emitter is stuck right on the IR sensor of the equipment.

Also, this isn't really an RF system - the receiver is IR based - you need to be pointing at it. It's basically a wireless IR repeater - you're much better off getting a wired version like a Xantech Hidden Link if you have the ability to connect the receiver to the connecting block with either the supplied plug or Cat5 for longer runs.


I think I am going to try the NGHP unit.

If all else fails i will buy a second reciever, then i can have 6 components.

http://www.smarthome.com/8045ir.html

Hmmm...from Smarthome's description:

The internal RF Adapter is NOT COMPATIBLE with remote controls using built-in rechargeable battery packs. However, if your remote uses AA or AAA batteries, this product is exactly what you need!

I thought someone had mentioned that they had "fixed" the issues with Harmony remotes? Now there is one site (HDTV supply) that says it won't work with the higher end Universal Remote's, and another site (Smarthome) that says it won't work with ANY rechargable batteries?

This product certainly has it's place - I may get one just to convert my home theater receiver's remote to RF - but once you start getting into the pricier and more functional universals out there, it looks as thouge your better off stepping up and getting the RF version (i.e. a Harmony 890 instead of an 880).

Also very interesting - HDTV supply says the unit comes with a triple eye emitter and a single "brigh-eye" emitter. Smarthome says it comes only with the single emitter. So which is it? The triple emitter is probably the most interesting thing about this - I've never seen anything more than a double emitter.

Also very interesting - HDTV supply says the unit comes with a triple eye emitter and a single "brigh-eye" emitter. Smarthome says it comes only with the single emitter. So which is it? The triple emitter is probably the most interesting thing about this - I've never seen anything more than a double emitter.
Neither of mine came with the triple eye emitter (single eye only) but I didn't purchase mine from HDTVSupply.com.

I just went to their website (http://www.hdtvsupply.com/rfrecoex.html) and it states that the triple emitter is an option: The optional triple IR mouse emitter features small infrared LEDs that mount over the IR window of any electronic component. It is terminated with a mini plug for simple installation with any IR emitter block.

Also, this isn't really an RF system - the receiver is IR based - you need to be pointing at it. It's basically a wireless IR repeater - you're much better off getting a wired version like a Xantech Hidden Link if you have the ability to connect the receiver to the connecting block with either the supplied plug or Cat5 for longer runs.


All I am looking for is the ability to use 2-3 different IR remotes (DVD, receiver, TiVo) to control equipment I may not have a direct line of sight shot at - the gear might end up being faced 90 degrees away from the seats, behind a facade - but would still be in the same room.

Unless I am missing something, it seems like the IR repeater would do the job just fine? It would just echo OUT whatever IR signals it sees in the receiver, out to the transmitter which resends the exact same signal, and would then be seen by the IR device the signal is coded for....?

This being the case (other than for remote controlling equipment in other rooms) why would one need RF?

I agree iGirl! I am looking for the same thing for two different homes. The only difference is that I am using a universal IR remote (Sony and Harmony) in each location. All we need is something to pick up the IR signal in the same room and get it inside a cabinet (again, in the same room).

All I need is a good IR receiver that will pick up a decent IR signal reliably and send it to different components inside a cabinet with a smoked glass door that seems to weaken the signal for some (one especially) of the less sensitive pieces of equipment in the cabinet.

A reasonably discreet solution would be best for me. I like the look of the Hot Link device, but nobody has posted any experience with this in this thread.

P.S. I also want to keep the cost under $100 if a good solution is available at this price level.

Unless I am missing something, it seems like the IR repeater would do the job just fine? It would just echo OUT whatever IR signals it sees in the receiver, out to the transmitter which resends the exact same signal, and would then be seen by the IR device the signal is coded for....?

This being the case (other than for remote controlling equipment in other rooms) why would one need RF?
Here's the way wireless remote extenders work: your IR remote sends a signal to the transmitter (the module that you point your remote at) which converts the IR to RF. The RF signal is sent to the receiver module (regardless of whether it's in the same room or in another room) that's located near the equipment you're trying to control. Here, it's converted back to IR so it can be recognized by your equipment, thus carrying out the command.

In the case of the NGHP that's been discussed in this thread (which I highly recommend), the only difference (and this is a big difference) is that the transmitter, rather than being a module that you need to point your remote at, resides inside your remote in place of one of the batteries. The obvious advantage to this is that there's no line of sight required (no module to point at). In other words, you're essentially turning your IR remote into an RF remote BUT that RF signal still needs to be converted back to IR so that your components can receive and carry out the command. Got it?

The NGHP solution is an interesting one, Vin, but there are still some issues:

(1) Will it work with rechargeable battery devices? These are more and more necessary as universal remote LCD screens switch more and more to color, just as they have done for cell phones.

(2) I am not sure how iGirl could implement this solution either, since she is currently using three remotes, not one (can she use three battery type emitters in each remote and just one receiver?).

(3) The last point is that some of us have our doubts about how replacing one battery in a unit affects its use over the long term.

Although NGHP certainly seems like a cheap solution for some, I think I just prefer to avoid the RF step altogether and just get a good reliable IR repeater solution (if that is the right term) like Hot Link Pro ($80 on amazon.com), if it works.

I used a Recoton IR extender & it worked pretty good, but I found it was unreliable, even in the same room (my equipment's at the back). I tried the Jensen & it was no better. I tried plugging the extender's receiver into the IR port on the back of my HK receiver, & it was the same. The Jensen though, would cause the HK to cycle through the inputs.
In the end, I gave up on those & got a Xantech IR repeater system. You mount the eye & run cat 5 to a transmitting block which has 4 IR ports, so with dual-emitters, you can control 8 devices. It's rock solid. If you can run cat 5, I'd recommend it.

Got it?

Thank you again - Yes, that's pretty much what I was understanding - but all I want is one receiver unit (to point anything I want to) and one transmitter (to send out to all the IR devices in my rack). This way if I add, change or take away components, it still works regardless without having to change a thing.

I would like to avoid the "battery transmitter" you have to buy for each remote. I would like to avoid individual wired IR transmitters on a ribbon cable. I do want the base & xmitter to be AC powered. I do want simple. Two parts - it just works.

http://www.amazon.com/POWERMID-Remote-Control-Extender-PM5900/dp/B00023KG40

This seems to fit the bill. I'm sure the one you like is great, hopefully this one is too? :)

Or maybe this one if you like wires all over...?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=182-458

Thank you again - Yes, that's pretty much what I was understanding - but all I want is one receiver unit (to point anything I want to) and one transmitter (to send out to all the IR devices in my rack). This way if I add, change or take away components, it still works regardless without having to change a thing.

I would like to avoid the "battery transmitter" you have to buy for each remote. I would like to avoid individual wired IR transmitters on a ribbon cable. I do want the base & xmitter to be AC powered. I do want simple. Two parts - it just works.

http://www.amazon.com/POWERMID-Remote-Control-Extender-PM5900/dp/B00023KG40

This seems to fit the bill. I'm sure the one you like is great, hopefully this one is too? :)
Well, as much as I like the NGHP, the main point of my last post was to explain the IR to RF conversion with ANY of these wireless remote extenders (it seemed to me that you were unclear on that). In any event, I'm still using a couple of sets of the two piece type, similar to the one you're considering. I've had pretty good success with this one (http://www.buy.com/prod/leapfrog-lfirx-remote-control-extender/q/loc/111/90105352.html).

Good luck. :)

Thank you again - Yes, that's pretty much what I was understanding - but all I want is one receiver unit (to point anything I want to) and one transmitter (to send out to all the IR devices in my rack). This way if I add, change or take away components, it still works regardless without having to change a thing.

I would like to avoid the "battery transmitter" you have to buy for each remote. I would like to avoid individual wired IR transmitters on a ribbon cable. I do want the base & xmitter to be AC powered. I do want simple. Two parts - it just works.

http://www.amazon.com/POWERMID-Remote-Control-Extender-PM5900/dp/B00023KG40

This seems to fit the bill. I'm sure the one you like is great, hopefully this one is too? :)

Or maybe this one if you like wires all over...?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=182-458

The Xantech unit is outstanding, and it fits your bill perfectly - assuming:

1) your receiver is within a short distance from the equipment. In this case, you could connect the receiver directly to the connecting block (which is what you plug the emitters into). I believe the table top receiver comes with a 7' cord. One could easily extend it by getting 20' extensions from Radio Shack, but keep in mind that if the cable is going to be behind a wall, you don't really want more than one extension - in case something gets yanked and the plugs become disconnected, it would be quite a PITA to figure out where the disconnection was in order to reconnect it. So, if your run is long and inside walls, I would use Cat5. The other nice thing about using Cat5 is that you can hook up 12 IR receivers in parallel to one connecting block - so you could do IR in 12 rooms. HOWEVER, once you get past two rooms, at $45 apiece for the tabletop receivers, it becomes more economical to just get an RF remote.

Also, the only thing that needs power in this setup is the connecting block which sits with the equipment. The tabletop receiver is not powered - just needs to be wired to the connecting block. You can freely add up to 8 components with dual emitters (there are 4 emmitter outputs), or 12 assuming the triple emitter works, but the expansion capability is beyond the limits of any house I've ever seen because you can add 10-emitter connecting blocks (20 components each with dual emitters), and daisy-chain them together. If you've got more then 20 IR controlled components in one location in your house, I envy you.

2) If your receiver is a long distance from your components, then you'll need to use Cat5. Personally I would use it for any run that exceeded the length of the attached mini-cable.

This is what I would do if you only want control from one room to components located in another room. I would do this before I did a wireless IR repeater - assuming there was access to hide the wires between the receiver and the connecting block. I've been using the Xantech system in one room on a 75' run to my basement, without any flaws. Like I said, using Cat5 is foolproof, and with the emitters stuck right on the components, there's no opportunity for a signal not to make it to the right piece of equipment.

This review of the NGHP may help explain some things:
http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/remote-controls/wireless-rf-remote-control-extender

Planning for my HT in my new place that im moving into i have been in search of IR extender/repeater as well. In keeping to my penny pinching nature and not wanting to spend $90-$190 on one of the Xantech kits i did some research to see if i could build my own or at the least... buy some components very cheap. A wired unit is alright for me because im just going to going to have my receiver, HTPC, game systems on a table behind my couch with my projector (IN72) right above the couch/table.

I thought of piecing together components with a buffalo connector box being the main hub, but what i found out is that IR receivers are really freaking expensive. ($50+ for just a box :( )
So i started to look for ways to make my own parts. I stumbled upon (lnx 'dot' manoweb 'dot' com/lirc/) website that shows plans for a IR receiver for your serial port on your PC. Its got the same 3 wire output as all the connector boxes receiver ports are. (Signal, Power, Ground) So now with that you can have the receiver, on to the connecting block.

I was originally going to look at getting one of the buffalo electronics ir-100 connector block because its cheaper then the xantech counterpart. But after looking i found something even cheaper... The Xantech CB20 Connecting block. Receiver, Check. Block, Check... on to the emitters.

What are emitters other then a IR led? I think thats it... So why not just buy a few IR leds locally and just solder then on some bell wire. I have the need for 2 (possibly 3, getting a input selector in the future) emitter but I have seen just phono splitters being used to jump a few more emitters on the line. Or you could just solder two leds on one plug.

Now only thing you need to figure out is how to connect bare wire into the headphone jacks, easy. Either salvage some old headphones (airplane earbuds???) or go to radioshack and dig in the parts bin and you can find stereo (receiver) and mono (emitters) plugs that you can break down and solder each lead hidden away. I know for sure because i build a powered Wii sensor bar with these.

I already ordered most of the parts for the receiver from digi-key (some stuff i have to get from radioshack) and ill probably order the connector block later this week. This is defiantly cheaper ($30-$40 maybe) and you get to build some stuff :). I will post how this all goes with my build and let you all know.

(sorry about the website, i just registered and dont have the post count. i want to contribute something real, not just added post count.)

I already ordered most of the parts for the receiver from digi-key (some stuff i have to get from radioshack) and ill probably order the connector block later this week. This is defiantly cheaper ($30-$40 maybe) and you get to build some stuff :). I will post how this all goes with my build and let you all know.

(sorry about the website, i just registered and dont have the post count. i want to contribute something real, not just added post count.)

So you saved about $60 over a Xantech system, but you spent a few hours getting all the parts, plus the gas to get to radio shack. If you enjoy building things, that's great - and by all means, do it. I'm impressed with your inginuity. But there are about 1,000 other things I, and I suspect most folks, would rather do than build their own IR repeater system. The day I can't justify spending $60 to save 3-4 hours of work and driving, well, I just hope I don't ever see that day :rolleyes:

... I stumbled upon (lnx 'dot' manoweb 'dot' com/lirc/) website that shows plans for a IR receiver ...

... I will post how this all goes with my build and let you all know.
Here is that link you posted:

http://lnx.manoweb.com/lirc/

I would like to know how you get on.

It's not just about saving a few bucks for me BTW tjk (after all, the Hot Link Pro system can be found for about $80 and the NGHP for $40 or less) but some of us actually like working this stuff out (I know, it sounds crazy!), just as some of us actually enjoy programming our own remotes, tweaking our own PCs, doing our own wiring ... but that's a whole other story!

Here is that link you posted:

http://lnx.manoweb.com/lirc/

I would like to know how you get on.

It's not just about saving a few bucks for me BTW tjk (after all, the Hot Link Pro system can be found for about $80 and the NGHP for $40 or less) but some of us actually like working this stuff out (I know, it sounds crazy!), just as some of us actually enjoy programming our own remotes, tweaking our own PCs, doing our own wiring ... but that's a whole other story!

I agree - and I'm certainly not trying to insult anyone or going to begrudge anyone's right to enjoy anything. My point was, it makes no sense to say you want to do all this to save money, when it takes a couple of hours to save $60. I can guarantee you that your free time is worth more than $20 or $30 an hour, no matter how useless you may find your free tome to be :) . If you are doing it because you enjoy it, to get away from the wife, etc., that's fantastic. If you 're looking to save $60 by building an IR repeater system for $30 rather than buying one for $90, I just think you need to endeavor to find more productive uses of your time.

... My point was, it makes no sense to say you want to do all this to save money, when it takes a couple of hours to save $60 ... I just think you need to endeavor to find more productive uses of your time.
Well, at least that's more than the (revised) minimum wage:

The federal minimum wage rises to $5.85 an hour today, from $5.15, in the first increase in 10 years. The raise will affect about 13 million workers, or 10 percent of the U.S. workforce.

My wife shares your point of view and is frequently telling me to "hire somebody" instead of doing it myself. Since her time is billed about $400/hour, I think she has a different perspective though. Anyhow, we all know why we lurk around in these forums: so that we can become better couch potatoes and enjoy our stuff! LOL!

Well, at least that's more than the (revised) minimum wage:

The federal minimum wage rises to $5.85 an hour today, from $5.15, in the first increase in 10 years. The raise will affect about 13 million workers, or 10 percent of the U.S. workforce.

My wife shares your point of view and is frequently telling me to "hire somebody" instead of doing it myself. Since her time is billed about $400/hour, I think she has a different perspective though. Anyhow, we all know why we lurk around in these forums: so that we can become better couch potatoes and enjoy our stuff! LOL!

While the minimum wage is a pathetic joke, I doubt that anyone making $5.85 an hour is trolling around a universal remote control message forum. If they are, they really need to get their priorities straight!! :rolleyes: Better yet, if you can make an IR system from scratch, I would contend that you have the ability to make more than $5.85 an hour.

I think we've sufficiently beaten this point into the ground. I know I'll never work on wire stripping, look for parts, etc. for 2-3 hours to save $60, but that's because there's about 1,000 things I'd rather do. I'm sure some of the things I do like to do, you couldn't pay a home diy'er to do. Different strokes...

tjk... sorry, i dont have a wife that makes $400/hour, so im not rolling in the dough like you must be. I am a just a grad student with no significant other. Building little somethings like an IR extender delivers a form of pride for some people, myself included. I am like many others, I am sure, on this board would love to rather spend many weekends in a row building their home theater, piece by piece, to call their own rather then calling in some company to do it all in a weekend and cost an extra $4-5,000 in contractors costs.

Anyways, back on topic. I should be getting the parts later this week... ill post pictures and results when its all done.

tjk... sorry, i dont have a wife that makes $400/hour, so im not rolling in the dough like you must be. I am a just a grad student with no significant other. Building little somethings like an IR extender delivers a form of pride for some people, myself included. I am like many others, I am sure, on this board would love to rather spend many weekends in a row building their home theater, piece by piece, to call their own rather then calling in some company to do it all in a weekend and cost an extra $4-5,000 in contractors costs.

Anyways, back on topic. I should be getting the parts later this week... ill post pictures and results when its all done.

Like I said, if you enjoy it, it makes perfect sense. If your sole point is to save $60, and it's not something you enjoy, then it makes no sense to spend 3 hours doing it.

And whose wife makes $400 an hour? Not mine - but I'd like to meet this woman and see if I can steel here away :D

And whose wife makes $400 an hour? Not mine - but I'd like to meet this woman and see if I can steel here away :D
I said her time is billed at $400/hour (by her company). She doesn't get that much, but still, even though she would be worth stealing, and even though you seem like a cool guy, tjk, you're not getting her!

P.S. We live in the L.A. area, so even with that kind of money, given the housing costs here, we are not rolling in money (unless you count pennies - we have a jar of those).

I said her time is billed at $400/hour (by her company). She doesn't get that much, but still, even though she would be worth stealing, and even though you seem like a cool guy, tjk, you're not getting her!

P.S. We live in the L.A. area, so even with that kind of money, given the housing costs here, we are not rolling in money (unless you count pennies - we have a jar of those).

I know - I saw you noted that she was billed at that. I started my career with a Big 6 public accounting firm. I was billed out at $150 an hour, back in 1991. I think I got just about enough out of that $150 to buy a slice of pizze for lunch.

Even still, if someone is willing to pay $400 an hour for your wife's time, she must be fairly sharp. But L.A. is too far from Chicago - so you can keep her ;) .

Being the owner of two of these I could have answered that for you guys but somehow missed the question....sorry about that.


Again, if you can place the receiver where it could flash all of your components without using emitters, problem solved.....I realize though that placement may not be the same in your set-up.


One of mine has been going for ~5 months now without requiring a charge.


Although I own a HTM MX-500 I haven't tried the NGHP remote extender with it....I am using it, however, with the URC-8820 (One-For-All) without any issues.

This looks like it will work for me. Question though:

I have a rack in my basement that I want to tap in to from my first floor (1st floor is directly over basement HT). I have a harmony remote for basement and an MX-700 for 1st floor. If I insert this transmitter battery in the remote on 1st floor will I still be able to control the devices on that floor and the devices in the basement? It doesnt render my remote useless for everything but the extnder, they can coexist?

This looks like it will work for me
...
I have a harmony remote for basement and an MX-700 for 1st floor. If I insert this transmitter battery in the remote on 1st floor will I still be able to control the devices on that floor and the devices in the basement? It doesnt render my remote useless for everything but the extnder, they can coexist?
1) Did you read post #19 by tjk? He mentioned:

This device does not work with Universal Remote Inc series of remote controls, like the MX-500, MX-700, etc.

2) Is your Harmony a AA/AAA battery powered model? If it has a Lithium Ion rechargeable battery, you will not be able to use the NGHP device.

3) Having the transmitter in your battery pack will not stop your remote sending out the normal IR signal on the 1st floor so your remote should still be able to control any devices that are not in proximity to the NGHP but are still within IR line of sight of the remote itself.

This looks like it will work for me. Question though:

I have a rack in my basement that I want to tap in to from my first floor (1st floor is directly over basement HT). I have a harmony remote for basement and an MX-700 for 1st floor. If I insert this transmitter battery in the remote on 1st floor will I still be able to control the devices on that floor and the devices in the basement?

It doesnt render my remote useless for everything but the extnder, they can coexist?
Your remote will continue to work as it did without the transmitter. The problem though is that the NGHP remote extender is purportedly incompatible with HTM remotes like the MX-700.

1) Did you read post #19 by tjk? He mentioned:

This device does not work with Universal Remote Inc series of remote controls, like the MX-500, MX-700, etc.

2) Is your Harmony a AA/AAA battery powered model? If it has a Lithium Ion rechargeable battery, you will not be able to use the NGHP device.

3) Having the transmitter in your battery pack will not stop your remote sending out the normal IR signal on the 1st floor so your remote should still be able to control any devices that are not in proximity to the NGHP but are still within IR line of sight of the remote itself.

That blows. I have so many remotes that are universal, I bet I could use one of the other remotes. I really just want to control my basement receiver, blue-ray and HD DVD player.

This seems like an ideal solution because i can place the basement receiver across the room (12 feet away) facing directly at my rack.

My requirement is for an inconspicuous setup to transmit from one room to the adjoining room. I would like a small wall mounted receiver that connects to a wall/ceiling mounted transmitter to send the IR signals into the next room. Hard wired is fine but I don't want a "stick" on IR emitter set up as I cannot run the cables down the wall to the devices, I need something that transmits the IR signal into the room as if I was standing in the room with the remote.

Any Ideas?

A bit old, but good information on that Next Gen Extender. I was looking at that one and by the looks and the description of it, along with the low price, thought it must be a joke. But after seeing the information on here and the linked reviews, I think I'm going to give that a try once I get my new LCD.
I'm going to be replacing a now dying projection in the bedroom with a wall mounted LCD and will move the components (cable box and dvd player/receiver) into the closet just behind the tv. All I need the extender to do it penetrate that wall. Sounds like this will more than do that with my Harmony.

Thanks!

FYI. You can get the Next Generation Remote Extender at buy.com for 35$ with free shipping (5% off codes floating around).

This thing seems almost too good to be true (especially for the price). I guess I'll find out in a week if it really is as good as it sounds.

It is as good as it sounds! The only draw back is it does not work with any remote that has rechargable battery system. If that's not an issue for you this thing is amazing.

since a lot of people in this thread have the next gen remote extender, i'll ask here.

i've been using it about 3 months and love it...however, over night it seemed to stop working. after troubleshooting, the RF transmitter (battery) seems to be working fine, but the IR blaster on the base station seems to be acting up. basically, if i hold the station directly in front of and within 1 foot of my equipment, it works, but when i put it back on its shelf about 2 feet away, it doesn't.

any ideas? i sent an email to the company but i haven't heard anything back. thanks!

I got the NGHP but have not hooked it up yet. I will be using it with a Harmony 550. My components are behind my sitting area and I have a projector which will be above. I might have to run the IR emitter to it.

What problems happen with the Scientific Atlantic cable boxes? I have an HD DVR box (8300). Anyone use the NGHP with this box?

i haven't used it with that box (i have a motorola). but the only compatibility problem i've had is that the remote's backlight stops it from working. so when the lights are off, i have to turn on the backlight, find the button, then wait for the light to go off before i press it. the remote is the universal remote that came with my marantz receiver.

btw, on the problem i'm having where the IR blaster isn't working well, i called the company, talked to the owner (i think), and he said just send it back to them and they'd replace it. now that's support. :)