Hey All,

I am in the planning stages for a basement remodel and am going to be purchasing a Mitsubishi Projector and a 92 inch screen. Below the screen I will have a small stand holding my Center Speaker, HD DVD Player, Reciever, Comcast HD Box, and PS3. The projector will be ceiling mounted about 3 feet behind my main couch viewing area.

So my questions is; with the Harmony 1000 or 890 how will I get it to program the projector? Will I need to run any IR or RF node things from the projector all the way to the main stand (15 feet away)?

Thanks for the help guys.

Nathan

Signals can bounce off the screen and reach a sensor on the front of the projector. Although it wouldn't hurt to run a cat5 cable to the projector just in case.

the odds of the IR signal bouncing off the screen while the projector is on is slim as is it working when the PJ is off.
Also I would recomend that you find a different location for your gear, as under the screen will be distracting because of the lights on the DVD, Cable box and receiver.

but whatever you do, you should run a cat5 to the PJ so that a flasher can be installed for IR control down the road.
also you may want to consider a RF based controller so that the light from the PJ does not interfer with the overall operation of the equipment

the odds of the IR signal bouncing off the screen while the projector is on is slim as is it working when the PJ is off.
Also I would recomend that you find a different location for your gear, as under the screen will be distracting because of the lights on the DVD, Cable box and receiver.

but whatever you do, you should run a cat5 to the PJ so that a flasher can be installed for IR control down the road.
also you may want to consider a RF based controller so that the light from the PJ does not interfer with the overall operation of the equipment

Not so. I have had a HT for several years and have always bounced the remote beam off the screen. Worked well with several Harmony remotes, the original remote and an MX 500. So my experience is different than yours in this regard.

Thanks for the help guys. I am not too concerned with lights from componets under the screen. I see quite a few people with compenents under their screen.

I am unfamiliar with the cat5 cable run to the projector. Can anyone help explain that?

Thanks,

Nathan

For an emitter/RS232 connector to control the projector...

Just because you see others with their components under the screen with lights visible should not lead you to believe this is the right way to things.

This is just silly and anybody who knows better will give you crap about it. Just do it right, you spend all this time and money on your theater and forget about the details. Why??

Thanks for the help guys. I am not too concerned with lights from componets under the screen. I see quite a few people with compenents under their screen.

I am unfamiliar with the cat5 cable run to the projector. Can anyone help explain that?

Thanks,

Nathan
My components are in my bar. I have an IR target behind my screen in my center channel speaker. Cat 5 is used between the target and the connecting block in the bar. The IR target has three connections: signal; voltage; ground. One twisted pair of the cable is used for signal and voltage; another pair is twisted together at both ends and used for ground. IR emitters are plugged into the connecting block. Another run of cat 5 goes from the bar to the projector where I could place another connecting block in parallel and attach another emitter, if bouncing a signal off the screen didn't work.

I'm not a fan of having equipment out in the open in a theatre/media room. In a dark room, the lights will be distracting. IR distribution is cheap.

nrucker,
Sounds like you will have a nice system. I have an older SANYO projector with a 92" pulldown screen that tucks away nicely, but the ripples in the screen can be annoying occasionally. My room dictated it, though.
I set up my HT using a IR-based system using the Home Theater Master MX-700. works okay, but having to point the darn thing at the components is a pain for other people who are not into the thing as much as I am. Wife in particular (which doesn't set all that well with her). I'm now looking at a RF system, but I have a long way to go. Idea stage only. If I was to do it over, I'd start with RF. That is the thought without having done a whole lot of research, though. Probably some problems with RF also.
When you set up the room, consider distances. I set up a location for the audio/video boxes that was at the front of the room. I needed about a 28' DVI cable from my equipment to the projector and found only afterward that DVI cables were recommended to have 15' max length. There was some angst for a while. Turned out that a RAM Electronics 30' DVI cable did the job just fine and I've found a number of other people who did the same thing without problem. Even so, something to consider when in design phase.

Probably some problems with RF also.

Yep, I've had problems with missed button presses with RF. Not that big of an issue with changing channels on a sat receiver, but would be an issue with remote macros.

the odds of the IR signal bouncing off the screen while the projector is on is slim as is it working when the PJ is off.
I agree with hmcewin - this is definitely not true, but it depends on the remote model.

I started out with a Harmony 676 and pointing it at the screen to control the projector was very hit-and-miss. With enough key presses, it eventually responded but it was frustrating.

When I got the 880 however, it was very different. It controls the PJ perfectly and NEVER misses a key press. The 880 evidently puts out a much stronger signal.

I agree with hmcewin - this is definitely not true, but it depends on the remote model.

I started out with a Harmony 676 and pointing it at the screen to control the projector was very hit-and-miss. With enough key presses, it eventually responded but it was frustrating.

When I got the 880 however, it was very different. It controls the PJ perfectly and NEVER misses a key press. The 880 evidently puts out a much stronger signal.


so i do this everyday for a living. what is your experience outside of your own room? If you ask any professional about the reliability of bouncing an IR signal is they will tell you that it is NOT reliable.
Don't get me wrong I have "bounced" a signal off of a very shiny ceiling to a cable box 8" inches below that was facing up, however you could also say that the controller actually saw the box. In any case I tried this numerous times before even showing the client.
Also different remotes have different dispersion patterns, and some have wider outputs than others, so for you to say that this will work no matter what is irresponsible.

For instance the remote for my Vidikron plasma has a weak output with very limited dispersion, where as the remote for my tivo has a very wide dispersion, as does my T3, but guess what my lutron dimmer does not always respond to the signal, so I guess I must be bouncing the signal incorrectly, well at least based on how you claim all remotes and all devices behave.

so i do this everyday for a living. what is your experience outside of your own room? If you ask any professional about the reliability of bouncing an IR signal is they will tell you that it is NOT reliable.
Don't get me wrong I have "bounced" a signal off of a very shiny ceiling to a cable box 8" inches below that was facing up, however you could also say that the controller actually saw the box. In any case I tried this numerous times before even showing the client.
Also different remotes have different dispersion patterns, and some have wider outputs than others, so for you to say that this will work no matter what is irresponsible.

For instance the remote for my Vidikron plasma has a weak output with very limited dispersion, where as the remote for my tivo has a very wide dispersion, as does my T3, but guess what my lutron dimmer does not always respond to the signal, so I guess I must be bouncing the signal incorrectly, well at least based on how you claim all remotes and all devices behave.

I think if you read scooterboy's and my post, both are relating OUR experiences and neither of us indicated all remotes in all rooms are capable of bouncing the signal off the screen. The person I was responding to indicated it is not a good idea which I disagree with based on MY experience.

If I were a professional installer I would more than likely try to sell my clients a system that is 100% reliable. DIY folks like me however are satisfied with a remote that cost less than $100 and is 95% satisfactory. Occasionally my Harmony will fail to turn off the projector but all I have to do is hit the "Help" button one time and it turns off. That is good enough for me.

I agree with your statement that bouncing is NOT 100% reliable.